(GPMR6007)
1 oz. [30g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6014)
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
2 oz. [60g] Foam Safe CA Activator (GPMR6035)
Great Planes Easy-Touch hand sander (GPMR6169)
Easy-Touch™ sandpaper assortment (GPMR6189)
Drill bits: 5/64" [2mm], 7-64" [2.8mm], 5/32 [4mm], 3/8"
[9.5mm]
Masking tape (TOPR8018)
18" flexible steel rule (HCAR0460)
6" steel pocket rule (found at most hardware stores)
Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
#11 hobby knife (HCAR0105)
#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
1" [25.4mm] Steel C-clamp (you’ll need 4)
24" [610mm] bar clamp
Weighted bags (use steel shot or BBs)
Rotary tool such as Dremel
Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
Sanding drum – coarse (DRER0965)
Plan Protector 25' [7.6m] roll (GPMR6167)
Latex foam rubber 1/2" [13mm] (HCAQ1050)
Denatured alcohol
Hobbico Retractable Fabric Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
Finishing Supplies
For a painted surface, we recommend using any fuel-
proof spray paint such as Top Flite
household spray paints available at your local hardware
store will also work, but be sure to test the paint to make
sure it is indeed fuel-proof.
For a bare-wood finish, we recommend
the following options:
This is a list of items you may want to order to outfit your
field box.
Flightline Equipment
Hobbico® Deluxe Power Panel II (HCAP0302)
Hot Shot™ 2 standard NiCd glo-starter (HCAP2520)
TorqMaster™ 180 electric starter (HCAP3305)
TorqMaster 12V, 7A sealed lead-acid battery (HCAP0800)
Hobbico Expanded-Scale Voltmeter Mk. II (HCAP0351)
GloBee™ IntelliTach™ (GLBP0111)
Hobbico Top Fueler™ Mk. III (HCAP3107)
Filling Station fuel fitting set (GPMP4155)
Recoil fuel tubing 5' [1.5m] (HCAP2200)
Dave Brown Pour-N-Pump fuel can & pump (DAVP2570)
Futaba® J charge leads Tx/Rx (HCAP0101)
Glo-starter charge leads (all) (HCAP0107)
Hobbico Quick Field Charger Mk. II (HCAP0290)
Triton 2™ DC computer charger (GPMM3153)
Adhesives & Oils
1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
2 oz. [60g] Foam Safe CA Activator (GPMR6035)
Great Planes® Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
After-run oil 2oz [60g] (HCAP3000)
1/4 – 20 x 1" nylon wing bolt (replacement part for cradle)
(GPMA2389)
O.S. #8 std long glow plug (OSMG2691)
Segmented lead weights 6oz [170g] (GPMQ4485)
Tie wraps, 4" [102mm] (TRIC6277)
Aluminum fuel line plugs/dots (GPMQ4166)
#64 rubber bands (1/4 lb [113g] box, HCAQ2020)
Blenderm™ tape (DUBQ0916)
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PREPARE FOR ASSEMBLY
BUILD THE MAIN BOX
1. Decide on the type of glue that you will use to build
your field box. You may use wood glue (aliphatic resin),
CA, or epoxy to assemble your field box. For the strongest
and most durable glue joints we recommend you use wood
glue. To build the box you see here in the manual, we used
wood glue for each joint and then we used evenly spaced
drops of CA to hold each piece in alignment while the wood
glue dried. If you prefer to use CA and accelerator to build
the box, use only a light misting of accelerator (spray from
about 9" [228mm] away). This prevents bubbling of the CA
as it cures and makes a stronger joint.
2. Depending on the layout you choose, you may build
your Super Tote with the power panel and battery on the left
side or the right side. For this manual, we will show you how
to build the box with the power panel and battery on the left.
Decide on what’s more comfortable for you.
1. Install four 5/16" x 3/8" x 7" [8x10x187mm] hardwood
rails in the channels provided in each of the two uprights
(part #8). Glue these in place so that there is at least 13/64"
[5mm] distance from the end of the rail to the edge of the
upright on either side. Sand the rail down to size if this is
not the case.
2. Lay one of the two battery box sides (part #2) onto the
left side of the base (part #10). Align the edge as shown.
Hold the battery box side in place using masking tape. This
will help you align the left side upright. Place three pieces of
masking tape under the base as shown.
3. Use a sanding block with some 150 grit sandpaper
to smooth the surface of the wood. Sand and bevel the
edges of the two uprights (part #8) and the base (part #10).
Remember that time spent preparing the wood now will
improve the final finish later. After you’re done with the box,
you will spend a bit more time sanding it for your final finish
application. Rough-prepping the individual pieces now will
save you a bit of time and effort later.
4. Please refer to the numbered parts diagrams on the
previous page to help you build this field box. Parts are
numbered and show parts orientation.
3
3. Glue the left side upright to the base being careful not
to get glue on the battery box side. Butt the back wall (part
#4) up against the upright and glue it in place. Use the tape
you applied in the last step to hold the back wall tightly up
against the base. Apply a few more pieces of tape to hold
the upright up against the back wall. Remove the battery
box side now and wipe up the excess glue that squeezes
out of the joints. Allow the glue to dry. To help hold all pieces
in alignment, you can use a small drop of thick CA every 2"
[51mm] and cure it with some CA accelerator.
5. Glue the right side upright to the base and the back
wall using the front panel as a guide to help you position
the upright. Wipe up any excess glue and use a few evenlyspaced drops of thick CA to tack the upright in place. Remove
the front panel from the base. Clean up any excess glue.
Tape the left upright to the back wall and let the glue dry.
6. Run a bead of glue into all of the joints. Run your
finger over the bead to remove the excess glue and smooth
it into a fillet.
4. Tape the front panel (part #22) to the base as shown.
Butt the panel up against the left side upright.
7. Glue the top tray floor (part #7) to the uprights, rails, and
the back wall. Make sure that the uprights are square with the
top tray floor and the back wall. Hold everything in position
with two 1" [25.4mm] steel C-clamps. Allow the glue to dry.
4
8. Place three pieces of tape under the top tray floor.
BUILD THE BATTERY BOX
1. Apply two pieces of tape from underneath the base.
9. Glue the front panel (part #22) in place so that the
bottom edge of the panel sits flush with the bottom face
of the top tray floor. Use a 24" [610mm] bar clamp to hold
everything in alignment as the glue dries. If you do not have
a bar clamp, you may use long pieces of masking tape.
Remove the clamps and tape after the glue is dry.
10. Glue the two fuel tank tray gussets (part #9) in the
locations shown. Align each gusset so that it is flush with the
edge of the base and upright. Note: The tall side of the gusset
is glued to the upright. Place a drop of thick CA on the back
side of the gussets at the horizontal joint and the vertical joint to
hold the gusset tightly up against the corner as the glue dries.
2. Glue one battery box side (part #2) to the base and
the left side upright so that the edges sit along the top face
of the base and the left face of the upright. Tape the battery
box side securely to the base and upright. Remove the tape
after the glue dries.
3. Glue one 5/16" x 5/16" x 5-3/4" [8x8x146mm]
hardwood stick to the battery box side so that the edge of
the stick sits flush with the edge of the battery box side.
Glue one piece of 5/16" x 5/16" x 3" triangle stock in the
fillet between the battery box side and the base.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the other battery box side.
5
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