Carl Goldberg GBGA1082 User Manual

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The
EEnndduurraannccee 440000
is a electric powered glider that can perform like a true sail plane. With its aileron controls and at “V” tail, this glider will satisfy any pilots dream of flying.
WARNING
LIMITED WARRANTY
Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd. has inspected and certified the components of this aircraft. The company urges the buyer to per­form his own inspection, prior to assembly, and to immediately request a replacement of any parts he believes to be defective for their intended use. The company warrants replacement of any such components, provided the buyer requests such replacement within a period of 90 days from the date of purchase and provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by the company.
No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the company with respect to this kit. The buyer acknowledges and under­stands that it is his responsibility to carefully assemble the finished flying model airplane and to fly it safely. The buyer hereby assumes full responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyer's use of the components of this kit.
CARL GOLDBERG PRODUCTS, LTD.
P.O. Box 818 Oakwood GA 30566 Phone #678-450-0085 Fax # 770-532-2163 www.carlgoldbergproducts.com
©copyright 2004
EEnndduurraannccee
EEnndduurraannccee
440000
440000
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USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Before you begin assembling your
EEnndduurraannccee 440000
ARF, take some time to read through this entire instruction book. It is designed to take you step-by-step through the process and to give you added information on motor and radio selection and set-up, balancing your aircraft, and flying your model. The time you spend will speed the assembly process and help you avoid problems.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
You will need a work area of approximately 24 x 48" which has been covered to protect it from adhesive, as well as cuts and other damage. Many people cover their work area with a sheet of dry wall (sheet rock) and/or waxed paper t o pre­vent CA Glue and Epoxy from ruining the work surface.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD. This will alert you to coming instructions and will help you plan accordingly.
Using the Parts Identification section, familiarize yourself with the various items included in your kit box.
Do not hesitate to ask questions. Your local hobby dealer and area flyers will most likely be happy to help, as they want you to have a successful flying experience.
You may also receive technical assistance from Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd. via e-mail (questions@carlgoldberg­products.com) or by telephone 1-678-450-0085.
ADHESIVES & GLUING TECHNIQUES
CA adhesives are specially formulated to firmly glue the plywood, hardwood, and balsa used in your model and to withstand the vibration and stresses of high performance flight. However, there are times, such as when you are installing the stabilizer and fin on the fuselage and want more set-up time for careful alignment and positioning, then you should use epoxy. Occasionally, you also will want to use thin CA, which "wicks" into the surrounding areas. Aliphatic resin glue or similar water-based glues can also be used, but they will add to the assembly time because they dry so much more slowly than CA glue. Remember, when ever using any CA, you must be careful to read instructions thoroughly, as you will have only sec­onds for positioning of parts. Be sure to trial fit parts together before gluing. Also, never use watery THIN type CA glue for gluing plywood and hardwood parts. Thin CA's do not adequately bond these areas.
CAUTION
Some people may experience an allergic reaction when exposed to fumes from CA glue or epoxy. As with paints, thinners, and solvents, it is always important to use glues only where there is adequate ventilation to carry fumes away. A fan is recommended. Also, special care must be taken when using CA, as it will bond skin as well as other surfaces. Before using any CA, carefully read all label pre­cautions. When using CA, protective eye-wear and care in keeping the glue away from the face is highly recommend­ed. If CA does happen to get into the eye, hold lid open and flush with water only. Seek immediate medical atten­tion.
COVERING
The
EEnndduurraannccee 440000
ARF is covered in a premium polyester film chosen by many of the world's top flyers for its beauty, toughness, and ease of application and repair. It is not uncommon for ARF's to develop a few wrinkles in transit. If this is true of your model, the situation is easily correct­ed. Before you begin putting the pieces together, run around the edge of the seams first then over the surface of each section with an iron (either specially designed for air­plane use or the more cumbersome household iron). Apply the heat (set at about 350° F), following along with a soft cloth and pressing down on the covering as you go around. This will more firmly set the covering adhesive into the wood and keep your aircraft covering tight and smooth in the future. Once you have ironed the seams stay away from them with the heat or the covering will slide when you try to shrink the middle. If this happens the wrinkles will not come out of the covering.
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS AIRCRAFT
1 RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (3 CHANNEL
MINIMUM REQUIRED WITH 3 SERVOS)
2 FUTABA 3108 SERVOS (AILERONS)1 FUTABA 3101 SERVO (ELEVATOR)1 MICRO RECEIVER (GWS)2 6” AILERON SERVO EXTENSION WIRE
1 ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL (20 AMP
FOR LI-PO BATTERIES)
1 2 OR 3 CELL 1500 MAH LI-PO BATTERY
1 CA ACCELERATOR1 1 OZ. BOTTLE CA MEDIUM GLUE1 1/2 OZ. BOTTLE CA THIN GLUE1 5 MINUET EPOXY 1 1/4” FOAM RUBBER1 DOUBLE SIDED SERVO TAPE1 ELECTRICAL TAPE1 120 GRIT SAND PAPER
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES FOR ASSEMBLY
MODELING OR UTILITY KNIFE WORK SURFACE (24" X48") SMALL STANDARD & PHILLIPS SCREW-
DRIVERS
MASKING TAPE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS 24” RULER FLEXIBLE STRAIGHT-EDGE SOFT PENCIL A FEW STRAIGHT OR "T" PINS WIRE CUTTER (DYKES) OPTIONAL HEAT GUN/COVERING IRON HOT GLUE GUN
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Caution:
Before starting, carefully go over all high
stress areas with an epoxy or wood glue to
confirm all areas are well glued.
Warnings about Lithium Polymer batteries
NEVER charge Lithium Polymer batteries with a charger designed for
NiCd, NiMH, or any other type of battery chemistry. Use ONLY the chargers listed under REQUIRES or equivalent substitutes.
Do not allow Li-Po cells to overheat at any time. Cells which reach
greater than 140° Fahrenheit (60C) will usually become damaged and could catch fire.
Do not charge or discharge Li-Po cells on or near combustible
materials including paper, plastic, carpets, vinyl, leather, wood, inside an R/C model or full size automobile.
Do not expose Li-Po cells to water or moisture at any time. Do not store batteries near an open flame or heater. Do not assemble Li-Po cells or pre-assembled packs together with
other Li-Po cells or packs.
Do not allow a Li-Po battery to be left unattended during charging or
discharging.
Always store Li-Po batteries in a secure location away from children Always remove a Li-Po battery if model is involved in any kind of
crash. Carefully inspect the battery and connectors for even the smallest damage. CAUTION, cells may be hot! Do not allow the electrolyte to get into eyes or on skin. Wash affected areas immediately if they come into contact with electrolyte
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Wing
Installing Ailerons
1. Collect the following parts:
(2) Wing ( Left & Right) (2) Ailerons ( Left & Right) (8) Mini CA hinges (2) Wood control horns
3. Locate the pre-cut aileron hinge slots in both
sides of the wing. Using a hobby knife (#11 blade), slide the blade into each slot to make sure it is cleanly cut.
Repeat this process with the ailerons, making
sure all hinge slots are clean.
4. Insert the CA hinges half way into the wing
and the ailerons. (Use a pin inserted into the middle of the hinge to help keep the hinge in the middle.)
Make sure that the aileron is against the wing
and evenly spaced at both ends of the wing cut out.
Using thin
CA glue, place one drop on all four
hinges top and bottom.
Repeat these steps for the other aileron.
1. Locate the pre-cut control horn slots in both
ailerons.
Using a hobby knife (#11 blade), slide the
blade into each slot to make sure the covering is cleanly cut. The slot is 2-5/8” from the end of the aileron
Making sure that the aileron is upside down,
insert the wood control horn in the slot.
2. Keep the control horn perpendicular to you
table top and the end flush with the top of the aileron.
Thin CA glue the control horn into the aileron.Repeat this process with the other aileron.
Aileron Servo Installation
1. Collect the following parts:
(2) Mini servos (2) 6” servo extensions (1) Electrical Tape (1) Hex Nut (1) 45cm length of string (1) Double sided servo tape (2) Nylon Clevises (2) Threaded pushrods (2) Nylon Swivel Keepers
1. Locate the servo hole in the bottom of the
wing
Using a hobby knife (#11 blade), remove the
covering over the hole.
2. Tie the hex nut to one end of the 45cm string.
Tape the other end of the string to the bottom
of the wing next to the servo hole.
Insert the hex nut into the servo hole and let it
fall down into the wing rib hole through the wing till it exits the root wing rib hole.
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3. Tape the hex nut to the bottom of the wing.
4. Plug one 6" extension wire into the servo.
Tape the servo wire to the extensions.
IMPORTANT! To ensure that any connections located inside the wing will not come loose, either when the wires are pulled, or during flying, always tape them securely together with electri­cal tape.
5. Un-tape the string that is next to the servo
hole.
Tie the end of the string to the end of the servo
extension.
Make sure that the string is pulling in the mid-
dle of the plug
Tape the string to the servo plug.
6. Insert the servo wire plug into the hole in the
rib in the aileron servo hole.
Slowly pull the servo extension through the
wing till it exits the center wing rib hole.
HINT: Look through the hole in the wing and pull back and forth on the string and the extension wire, too feed it through the wing. You can also use a length of music wire inserted through the wing with the extension plug taped to it.
7. Insert the aileron servo in the hole in the wing.
Cut open the servo hole if required.
Caution: Do not cut the spars or past the ribs.
8. ChecK for servo arm clearance.
Also, check that you can get to the servo arm
screw for adjustment and removal.
We have include a 1/4” block of wood to be
placed under the aileron servo if required.
Futaba 3108 servo
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9. Using rubbing alcohol, clean the bottom of the
servo where the double sided tape will be applied.
Making sure that the both the wing and the
servo are dust free, apply a piece of double sided tape to the servo.
remove the other side of the tape and mount
the servo in the wing.
To help secure the servo more, glue the servo
in place using a hot glue gun.
10. Thread the nylon clevis onto the threaded
rod..
Attach the clevis to the wooden control horn.Mark where the pushrod wire meets the servo
arm and make a 90 degree bend.
put the wire through the servo arm and attach
the nylon swivel keeper.
Cut off any excess wire.
“V” TAIL INSTALLATION
1. Collect the following parts:
(1) “V” Tail (1) Fiberglass Fuselage (1) 120 Grit Sand Paper
1. Using a soft lead pencil, mark the location
where the stab meets the fuselage.
2. Remove the stab from the fuse and, working
1/16" inside the drawn lines, carefully remove the covering from the bottom of the stab. BE CAREFUL TO AVOID CUTTING THE WOOD.
Sand the fuselage using 120grit sandpaper, at
the location where the “V” tail will be glued. (Sand only enough to rough the surface for the glue to stick).
Fuselage
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3. Spread epoxy on both the inside “V” of the
stab and the stab platform of the fuse.
Replace the stab on the “V” platform and,
check that the stab is resting completely flat.
Allow to dry.
Elevator & Pushrod
1. Collect the following parts:
(1) Pushrod Assembly (2) elevators (2) Wooden control Horns (2) Nylon Clevises (6) CA Hinges
2. Locate the pre-cut control horn slots in both
elevators.
Using a hobby knife (#11 blade), slide the
blade into each slot to make sure the covering is cleanly cut. The slot is 3/8” from the end of the elevators.
Making sure that the elevator is upright, insert
the wood control horn in the slot.
3. Keep the control horn perpendicular to you
table top and the end flush with the top of the elevator.
Slide the elevator into the “V” tail using the
hinges
4. Repeat this process with the other elevator.
Align the two control horns so they are even
with each other. (See Photo)
Carefully pull the elevators back out of the “V”
tail and glue the control horns in place.
5. Re-insert the hinges into the elevators and
placet them back onto the “V” tail.
Make sure the tip of the elevator is even with
the tip of the “V” tail.
Using thin CA, glue the elevators in place.
Align the control horns
Even
6. thread the nylon clevises onto the end of the
elevator pushrod.
7. Insert the pushrod into the rear of the fuse-
lage.
Make sure the front of the pushrod rest under
where the servo arm will be.
7. Insert the elevator servo into the fuselage. (
We used a Futaba 3101 servo).
Making sure that the servo arm is straight to
the servo, mark the pushrod were the servo arm hole meet.
Remove the pushrod from the fuselage.
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8. Lay the pushrod on the table top just like it sits
inside the fuselage.
Bend the pushrod 90 degrees at the mark you
just made. Bend the wire so that you insert the pushrod thru the servo arm. (See Photo above)
Put the servo arm and the swivel keeper on
the pushrod. (See Photo above)
Insert the pushrod into the hole in the rear of
the fuselage.
9. Screw the servo arm onto the servo.
Mount the elevator servo like shown in the
photo above.
Speed control
The motor in the
EEnndduurraannccee 440000
is a stan-
dard 400 brushed motor. The
EEnndduurraannccee 440000
uses a orbital drive with a 3.7:1 ratio. The
EEnndduurraannccee 440000
works the best using Li-Po bat­tery packs. A 2 cell 1500 mAh Li-Po battery or for the best performance a 3 cell 1500 mAh Li­Po battery.
The speed controller needs to be designed for Li-Po battery packs and able to handle no less than 25 amps of current draw. Connect your speed controller to the motor per the instructions that comes with the speed con­trol.
Battery & Receiver Location
Slide the battery behind the elevator servo. Use foam to help hold the battery in place or glue velcro on the battery and the tray.
Receiver
Plug in all the servos into the micro receiver and place the receiver on top or in front of the battery pack.
Stretch out the receiver antenna along the top of the fuselage and tape in place.
You will also have to tape the wings to the
fuselage before flying.
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CG Location and Control Throws
The
EEnndduurraannccee 440000
balance point is 2-1/4 to 2-1/2” back from the
leading edge of the wing next to the fuselage. It is always better to
fly slightly nose heavy, then slowly move the balance point back till
the plane flies the way you like it.
Control Throws
Aileron 1/4” to 3/8”
Elevator 3/8” to 1/2”
With everything installed, mount the wing and care­fully check the Center of Gravity (CG). One way is to perch the model on the thumb and forefinger of your left hand (if you’re right handed), while steadying the model with the other. A much better way is to use a balancing set-up, which can be made with a couple of 1/4” dowels with rounded tops, spaced just enough apart to clear the fuse. Mark the desired CG on the underside of the wing, and then set the model on the dowels at that location. Add weight if neces­sary for balance. The least weight is needed when added as far forward or back as possible.
DO NOT attempt to fly the model with the CG EVEN SLIGHTLY BEHIND the rear most recom­mended position.
Before going to the field to fly, with batteries fully-
charged, turn on receiver and transmitter and actu­ate all controls many times until you are satisfied with all functions. Prior to the beginning of each day’s flying, make a range check of your equipment in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions in general, with antenna collapsed, you should have at least 100 feet range on the ground. To check this, set the model facing away from you, turn on both the transmitter and receiver switches, and walk away while transmitting signals. Watch to see that no sig­nals are missed until you are at least 100 feet away. Do not attempt any flights unless the equipment works perfectly.Be careful not to use your transmitter when someone else on the field is flying or testing on the same frequency.
LEARNING TO FLY
Flying R/C is both fun and challenging. As with other portions of this book, the following section is meant to introduce you to the basics. Read carefully before tak­ing your model out to the field and attempting first flights. And remember, becoming an R/C pilot takes time and patience, but the rewards are well worth the effort.
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FLYING THE ENDURANCE 400
CHECK YOUR EQUIPMENT
Prior to going to the flying field, with radio batteries fully charged, turn on both receiver (Rx) and transmitter (Tx) and actuate all controls many times until you are satis­fied with all functions.
Before beginning each day's flying,
make a range check of your equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In general, with transmitter antenna col­lapsed to 6"-8", you should have an at least 100 foot range on the ground. To check this, turn on both the transmitter and the receiver switches, set the model heading away from you, and walk away while transmit­ting signals to move the control surfaces. Watch to see that no signals are missed until you are at least 100 feet away. Only if the equipment works perfectly should any flights be attempted. Again, be careful to not use your
transmitter when anyone else at the field is flying or testing on the same frequency!
After the range check, stand behind the model and make sure the control responses are correct. Moving the con­trol stick to the right should give right rudder (on a 3­channel set-up) . Moving the stick back or down on the Tx should move the elevator up, and vice versa.
Finally, make sure that everything on your aircraft is neatly and firmly in place-motor fastened down, servos snugged down, receiver and battery wrapped in foam rubber, etc. Prop and spinner must be tight. The receiv­er antenna must be extended, not coiled up inside the model. Nothing should be loose, or unfinished, or unchecked.
With everything ready, the motor should be started for a short time. While the motor is running, make sure the control surfaces do not jitter or move until you command them and that the motor switch also responds properly to your command.
With transmitter and receiver switched on, hand launch the model directly into the wind. Gently correct the flight path as necessary. If any adjustments are needed to maintain straight and level flight, get experienced help to move the clevises.
In flight control. most of the beginner's trouble comes from over-controlling or holding a signal too long. It is better to operate your transmitter slowly and smoothly.
A troublesome tendency is letting the model get down­wind. New flyers should try to keep the model upwind at all times prior to the landing approach.
If you are a novice, seek the help of an experienced flyer. Do not hesitate to ask one of the better flyers at the field for help. Usually, they are glad to spend a little time to get somebody started right, and they very likely were helped in the same manner themselves.
WHERE TO FLY
Fly only in areas sanctioned for R/C and known to be
free of radio interference. Ask your hobby dealer or other modelers if there is an R/C flying field that is used by a local R/C club. This is the ideal place to fly. If you don't know of an R/C club nearby, contact the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), at the address on the front of this booklet, for information on a club in your area. Remember: R/C flying fields need to have rules to help prevent accidents, so ask about them before you turn on any of your equipment! DO NOT TEST your trans-
mitter in the parking lot or anywhere nearby until you are sure no one else is using your radio fre­quency. This could cause another flyer to crash and make you very unpopular!
If there is no club or other R/C flying site available, locate a square area (preferably a grassy field), at least four or five football fields long, which is free of power lines, trees, poles, houses, busy streets and other obstructions. It must be at least three miles away from any areas where other R/C models, such as boats or cars, are operated. It should also have a relatively smooth surface, as it will take practice to learn precision landings. If you find a suitable location, turn your receiv­er on for 2 or 3 minutes to check that no one in the vicin­ity is operating an R/C device which could affect your receiver and cause your plane to crash.
The Endurance 400 was designed for long, slow, relaxed flying - not loops or similar aerobatic maneuvers. Save that kind of lying for your next, higher performance sport plane. Practicing precise control and glide planning on the Endurance 400 is good preparation for the demands of advanced aerobatic flying.
We recommend you use 3 channels, as this will allow you to cut power whenever you wish to do so. On your first few flights, after a couple of minutes, you may feel you have "had enough" and want to land and relax. A 2-channel system without motor control will not give you this option; you will have to keep flying until the battery power runs down.
You can expect a good solid 4 or 5 minutes of powered flight with a properly charged battery. In this amount of time, Endurance 400 will gain several hundred feet of altitude and will allow you time to get oriented and famil­iar with the control "feel." When the battery power begins to run out, climb will slow down and the model will begin a slow descent. You should continue flying your same flying pattern as the model slowly glides.
For your initial landings, you should not be concerned about trying to land at a specific spot. Your prime con­cern should be a controlled landing, always into the wind, with wing level. With practice, you will be able to plan your approaches to land just about where you want.
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