Carl Goldberg GBGA1041 User Manual

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Extra 330 ARF
Extra 330 ARF
WARNING
A radio-controlled model is not a toy and is not intended for persons under 16 years old. Keep this kit out of the reach of younger children, as it contains parts that could be dangerous. A radio­controlled model is capable of causing serious bodily injury and property damage. It is the buyer's responsibility to assemble this aircraft correctly and to properly install the motor, radio, and all other equipment. Test and fly the finished model only in the presence and with the assistance of another experienced R/C flyer. The model must always be operated and flown using great care and common sense, as well as in accordance with the Safety Code of the Academy of Model Aeronautics (5151 Memorial Drive, Muncie, IN 47302, 1-800-435-9262). We suggest you join the AMA and become prop­erly insured prior to flying this model. Also, consult with the AMA or your local hobby dealer to find an experienced instructor in your area. Per the Federal Communications Commission, you are required to use only those radio frequencies specified "for Model Aircraft."
LIMITED WARRANTY
Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd. has inspected and certified the components of this aircraft. The company urges the buyer to per­form his own inspection, prior to assembly, and to immediately request a replacement of any parts he believes to be defective for their intended use. The company warrants replacement of any such components, provided the buyer requests such replacement within a period of 90 days from the date of purchase and provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by the company.
No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the company with respect to this kit. The buyer acknowledges and under­stands that it is his responsibility to carefully assemble the finished flying model airplane and to fly it safely. The buyer hereby assumes full responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyer's use of the components of this kit.
CARL GOLDBERG PRODUCTS, LTD.
P.O. Box 818 Oakwood GA 30566 Phone #678-450-0085 Fax # 770-532-2163 www.carlgoldbergproducts.com
©copyright 2004
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Congratulations on your purchase of the Extra 330ARF. This is a very unique dual-purpose air­craft, capable of flying any FAI pattern sequence with ease, while exhibiting remark­able 3-D capabilities. Every effort has been made to produce a lightweight, straight, easy to assemble aircraft. Because of its oversize con­trol surfaces which are double beveled to allow for extreme throws, great care must be taken in the set-up and flying of this airplane. Quality hardware components have been provided to allow for 3D set-up while maintaining adequate mechanical advantage to eliminate flutter. It is you responsibility as an advanced pilot to fly the aircraft in an intelligent manner. THROTTLE MANAGEMENT IS A MUST!!!!!!! Carl Goldberg Products has flown the Extra 330ARF through a very rigorous flight-testing schedule and have stressed the airframe beyond all prac­tical parameters without a single failure. Carl Goldberg Products will NOT
warrant the Extra 330ARF against flutter due to improper set-up or excessive speed maneuvers. having said that, we believe you will find the Extra 330ARF to be one of the most responsive, in-the-grove aircraft on the market. Just remember to use common sense when flying this high perform­ance machine.
We are very proud of the construction of the Extra 330ARF and all of our other ARF aircraft. Each aircraft is jig built to insure a straight true airframe. Every effort is made to build as light an aircraft as possible. As with any professional builder, glue is used sparingly. Please take a
moment during assembly and run a bead of CA or aliphatic resin into the high stress joints that you can reach such as the landing gear plate, servo mounting trays, wing hold down blocks, etc. Also, during the course of
shipping from the manufacturer to our facility in the United States, it is not uncommon for the air­craft to experience several changes in climate. This may cause the iron-on covering to develop wrinkles. This is not a fault of the manufacturer. Please take a few minutes with your heating iron and heat gun to iron down the seams and re­shrink the covering where needed. The results will be a beautiful aircraft with a breathtaking fin­ish that you will be proud to display at your flying club.
Before beginning assembly of your Extra 330ARF, we highly recommend that you study this manual in its entirety. You should begin planning your radio installation based on your choice of engine and equipment from the begin­ning.
Because the Extra 330ARF is intended for those with some degree of modeling experi­ence, every minute detail will not be covered. This is not a basic trainer. Assembly of this air­craft will be easy for the experienced modeler, and by following the instructions within this manual and using the skills you’ve gained dur­ing your modeling career you will be able to pro­duce a first class aircraft.
Building supplies needed
Hobby knife w/#11 blades Thin CA Medium CA Canopy glue 30 minute epoxy Thread lock Diagonal wire cutters Pliers Assorted drill bits Various sized screwdrivers( both Phillips and standard head) Tape measure Dry-erase marker Paper towels Rubbing alcohol Electrical tape 4-40 Tap & Die Set 3/32, 7/64, 9/64 & 3mm Allen wrench Wax Paper
Note:
Thread lock must be used where ever any machine bolts are going into any type of nuts. If you do not use thread lock the bolts could become loose and fall out in flight.
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ADHESIVES & GLUING TECHNIQUES
CA adhesives are specially formulated to firmly glue the plywood, hardwood, and balsa used in your model and to withstand the vibration and stresses of high performance flight. However, there are times, such as when you are installing the stabilizer and fin on the fuselage and want more set-up time for careful alignment and positioning, then you should use epoxy. Occasionally, you also will want to use thin CA, which "wicks" into the surrounding areas. Aliphatic resin glue or similar water-based glues can also be used, but they will add to the assembly time because they dry so much more slowly than CA glue. Remember, when ever using any CA, you must be careful to read instructions thoroughly, as you will have only sec­onds for positioning of parts. Be sure to trial fit parts together before gluing. Also, never use watery THIN type CA glue for gluing plywood and hardwood parts. Thin CA's do not adequately bond these areas.
CAUTION
Some people may experience an allergic reaction when exposed to fumes from CA glue or epoxy. As with paints, thinners, and solvents, it is always important to use glues only where there is adequate ventilation to carry fumes away. A fan is recommended. Also, special care must be taken when using CA, as it will bond skin as well as other surfaces. Before using any CA, carefully read all label pre­cautions. When using CA, protective eye-wear and care in keeping the glue away from the face is highly recommend­ed. If CA does happen to get into the eye, hold lid open and flush with water only. Seek immediate medical atten­tion.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBL
Y
You will need a work area of approximately 24 x 48" which has been covered to protect it from adhesive, as well as cuts and other damage. Many people cover their work area with a sheet of dry wall (sheet rock) and/or waxed paper t o pre­vent CA Glue and Epoxy from ruining the work surface.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD. This will alert you to coming instructions and will help you plan accordingly.
Using the Parts Identification section, familiarize yourself with the various items included in your kit box.
COVERING
The
EExxttrraa 333300
ARF is covered in a premium polyester film chosen by many of the world's top flyers for its beauty, toughness, and ease of application and repair. It is not uncommon for ARF's to develop a few wrinkles in transit. If this is true of your model, the situation is easily correct­ed. Before you begin putting the pieces together, run around the edge of the seams first then over the surface of each section with an iron (either specially designed for airplane use or the more cumbersome household iron). Apply the heat (set at about 350° F), following along with a soft cloth and pressing down on the covering as you go around. This will more firmly set the covering adhesive into the wood and keep your aircraft covering tight and smooth in the future. Once you have ironed the seams stay away from them with the heat or the covering will slide when you try to shrink the middle. If this happens the wrinkles will not come out of the covering.
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS AIRCRAFT
1 RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (6 CHANNEL
MINIMUM REQUIRED WITH 8 SERVOS)
2 24” ELEVATOR SERVO EXTENSION
WIRES
2 24” Y-HARNESS 1 CA ACCELERATOR
1 2 OZ. BOTTLE CA MEDIUM GLUE1 1/2 OZ. BOTTLE CA THIN GLUE
1 30 MINUET EPOXY 1 1/2” FOAM RUBBER 1 3” SPINNER
OPTIONAL:
1 1/4 SCALE PILOT FIGURE
NOTE: The Extra 330 ARF covering closely
matches Bright Yellow (#872), Flame Red (#883), Deep Blue (#873) and White (#870) Oracover.
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2. Locate the pre-drilled aileron hinge holes in both
wing halves. Using a 1/4” drill, drill each hole 1/8” deep. This will allow the center of the hinge to be inserted half way into each of the surfaces.
Repeat this process with the ailerons, making
sure all hinges insert half way.
3. Place 1 drop of oil on each of the hinges at the
center. This is to keep the hinges loose and prevent epoxy from sticking at the joint.
Caution: Do not get any oil on the length of the
hinge or it will not glue into the surface.
WING ASSEMBLY
AILERON INSTALLATION
1. Collect the following parts:
(1) Left wing (1) Right wing (1) Left aileron (1) Right aileron (10) hinges
4. Select the aileron for the wing half on which
you are working.
Mix up a liberal amount of 30 minute epoxy.Working with 1 hinge at a time, place a dab of
epoxy and insert the hinge half way into one of the aileron holes.
Repeat for each of the other hinges for that
aileron.
5.
Working quickly, place some epoxy on the
second half of each hinge and insert the aileron into the wing.
Slide the aileron toward the wing until no gap
remains between the aileron and the wing.
When satisfied with the alignment, flex the
aileron up and down to confirm that the hinges are working freely. remove any excess epoxy.
Apply a few strips of masking tape to keep the
pieces in place.
Allow to dry before flexing the aileron.
6.
Repeat the above steps for the other half of
the wing.
AILERON SERVO INSTALLATION
1. Collect the following parts:
(1) Left wing (1) Right wing (4) Servos (2) 24” “Y” Harness
2. Locate the two servo holes in the bottom of
wing.
Carefully cut the covering over the servo
holes.
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3. Attach the 24” “Y” harness to one of the servos.
IMPORTANT! To ensure that any connections locat-
ed inside the wing will not come loose, either when the wires are pulled, or during flying, always tape
them securely together with electrical tape.
4. Starting from the outer servo hole, insert
the “Y” harness and the servo wire into the servo hole.
Allow the wire to fall straight down through
though the wing till it exits the root rib
.
5. Tape the end of the plug to the root rib.
Mount the outer aileron servo to the wing
.
Aileron
6. Pull the second half of the “Y” harness out
the inner servo hole.
Plug the second aileron servo into the wire
harness.
Always tape them securely
together with electrical tape.
Install the second aileron servo into the wing.
AILERON CONTROL HORN INSTALLATION
2. With the aileron servo in place, make a mark
on the aileron at a 90º degree angle to the trailing edge and in line with the servo.
1. Collect the following items
(8) 4-40 Metal Clevis (8) 4-40 Hex Nut (4) 4-40 x 3-3/4" Double Threaded Wire (4) 6-32 x 2” Bolt (4) 6-32 Hex Nut (4) #6 Washer (4) 6-32 Adjustable Horn Bracket (4) Clevis Clips
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3. Position the control horn bolt so that it is 1/2”
back from the hinge line on the mark that you just made.
4.
Using a 9/64" drill bit, make a hole in the
aileron through to the top side.
5. Insert the 6-32 x 2” screw from the top through
the aileron.
Place the #6 washer and the 6-32 hex nut on
the bolt and tighten. Make sure that you use thread lock on the bolt and nut.
Screw the adjustable horn bracket on to the
bolt.
6. Thread on to each end of the 4-40 x 3-3/4”
pushrod a hex nut and a metal clevis.
Install the metal clevis onto the horn bracket
and the servo arm.
Install a clevis clip on to each clevis and tight-
en the hex nut against the clevis.
Repeat the above steps for the second aileron
servo.
7.
Repeat steps 2 thru 6 for the second wing
half.
HINT: Drill the hole from the bottom half way.
Then measure and mark the top of the aileron and drill down to the hole from the top of the aileron.
Caution:
Make sure each snap link is fully closed and a
clip is installed before and after each flight.
Note:
Now is the time to decide if you want
to glue the stabilizer to the tubes and
the fuselage, or if you wish to have
removable stabilizers.
Collect the following parts:
(1) Left Stabilizer (1) Right Stabilizer (1) 1/2” x 16-1/4” Stabilizer Tube (2) 4-40 x 1/2 bolts
Mounting Stab
1. Slide the small stabilizer tube into one side of
the stab. Then slide the assembly into the hole in the fuselage till the stab is flush against the fuse. (The side of the stab with the hole is the bottom of the stabilizer). Slide the second stab onto the tube sticking out the other side of the fuselage. Squeeze both stab pieces together firmly on to the fuselage.
Check that the stabilizer is level with the wing.
Shim the tube in the fuselage up or down if necessary. Do not go any farther till the stab is level to the wing.
The Stabilizer can be mounted to the
fuselage two ways:
Removable Stabilizer
1.
Using 4-40 bolt, drill and tap the stabilizer tube
at the hole location. This method will allow you to remove the stab as needed. CAU- TION:You must watch the bolt holes for fatigue and drill another hole by rotating the tube when this happens.
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Gluing Stabilizer:
1. Using a pencil, make an outline where the
stabilizer rest against the fuselage.
2. Remove both stabilizers from the tubes.
3. Remove the tubing from the fuselage.
4. Lightly sand the tubing using 220 sand paper.
5. Remove the covering from the fuselage
inside the outline that you made.
6. Mix up epoxy and slide the stabilizer assem­bly together again, allow to dry.
HINGING THE ELEVATORS
1. Collect the following items:
(2) Elevators
(6) Hinges
4. Take the elevators and the stabilizers and just
like you did for the ailerons pre-drill each of then hinge holes.
Place a drop of oil on each of the hinges.
5. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and glue each
of the elevators to the stabilizers.
Tape the elevators to the stabilizers till dry.
2. cut two barbs off of two hinges on one side
only.
3. Insert the shortened hinge into the hinge hole
closes to the fuselage.
Make sure that the hinge fits completely into
the stabilizer. Keep cutting the hinge till it fits.
ELEVATOR & SERVOS
1. Collect the following items:
(2) Servos
(2) 24” Servo Extensions
(2) 4-40 x 3-1/2” Double Threaded Pushrod
(4) 4-40 Hex Nuts
(4) 4-40 Metal Clevis
(4) Clevis Clips
(2) 6-32 x 2-1/2 “ Flat Head Bolt
(2) #6 Washer
(2) 6-32 Hex Nut
(2) 6-32 Horn Bracket
Note:
We have included a rudder servo hole in the
fuselage just behind and below the elevator
servo hole. If you choose to install a large
engine or just want better rudder control,
then install your rudder servo here(There is
a hole on both side of the fuselage for
push-pull system). More weight in the nose
will be required for this system.
1. Remove the covering over the elevator servo
holes on both sides of the fuselage.
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2. Plug the 24” extensions into the elevator ser-
vos.
Make sure that the extensions plugs are taped
to the servos.
3.
Screw the elevator servos into the fuselage.
4. Position the control horn bolt so that it is 1/2”
back from the hinge line and 3/4” from the end of the elevator.
5.
Using a 9/64" drill bit, make a hole in the ele-
vator through to the top side.
6. Insert the 6-32 x 2” screw from the top through
the elevator.
Place the #6 washer and the 6-32 hex nut on
the bolt and tighten. Make sure that you use thread lock on the bolt and nut.
Screw the adjustable horn bracket on to the
bolt.
6. Thread on to each end of the 4-40 x 3-1/2”
pushrod a hex nut and a metal clevis.
Install the metal clevis onto the horn bracket
and the servo arm. tighten the hex nut against the metal clevis.
Install a clevis clip on to each clevis.Repeat the above steps for the second eleva-
tor.
HINT: Drill the hole from the bottom half way.
Then measure and mark the top of the aileron and drill down to the hole from the top of the aileron.
Caution:
Make sure each metal clevis is fully closed and
a clip is installed before and after each flight.
RUDDER & TAILWHEEL
1. Collect the following items:
(1) 6-32 x 3” All threaded rod
(4) Small White Adjustable Horn
(2) 6-32 Hex Nut
(2) #6 Flat Washer
(1) Rudder
(3) Hinges
2. Install the hinges into the rudder and glue the
rudder in place using the same hinging method used for the elevator and ailerons.
3. Position the control horn bolt so that it is 1/2”
back from hinge line and 1/2” up from the bot­tom of the rudder.
Using a 9/64" drill bit, make a hole in the rud-
der.
4.
Center the 6-32 x 3” threaded rod in the hole. Using thread lock place first the #6 washer
then the 6-32 Hex nut on each side of the rud­der.
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5. Thread the 2 white adjustable horn brackets
on the rod.
Do this on both sides of the bolt.
6. Thread the 6-32 x 3” threaded rod half way
into the brass nob that is on top of the axle on the tailwheel bracket.
Place on the each end of the threaded rod a
white horn bracket.
Mark the center of the fuselage and place the
tail wheel bracket on the center line.
Place the first bend of the bracket where it
bends away from the fuselage just in front of the rudder hinge line.
7.
Drill a 3/32“ hole in the first and last mounting
holes in the bracket
Mount the tailwheel bracket using 2 #6 x 1/2”
sheet metal screws.
8. Remove from the tailwheel springs approxi-
mately 1/2” from the other side of the long wire.
On the side of the spring that you just cut off,
bend 2 or 3 coils of the spring out so that they can hook through the horn bracket.
9. Twist the end of the spring on to the horn
bracket. Insert the long wire end around the second horn bracket. Twist the wire so that it will stay hooked to the bracket.
10.
Repeat steps 8 & 9.
Note: The springs do not have to be tight to work.
The wheel will pivot easily when ground taxing.
Install the tailwheel using the 1/8” wheel col-
lars and set screws.
RUDDER SERVO
1. Collect the following items:
(1) Servo
(1) Cable
(2) Brass Tubes 1/16 OD x 1/4”
(2) 4-40 Rigging Coupler
(2) 4-40 Golden Clevis
(2) 4-40 Hex Nut
2. Cut the rudder cable in half.
3. Insert the cable into the hole found just above
the elevator servo.
Repeat for the other side cable.
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4. Remove the top canopy hatch. Reach down
inside the fuselage and pull the cables slowly froward.
Caution: Do not pull the cables all the way
through the hole.
Tape the cables to the rudder servo tray..
5.
Slide one of the brass tubes over the cable
end next to the rudder.
Loop the end of the cable through the outer
horn bracket on the rudder control horn and back though the brass tube.
Once more loop the cable around the out side
of the brass tube and pass it through the tube for the third time. (See the photo above)
Pull on the end of the cable to make the final
loop as small as possible.
When satisfied then crimp the brass tube with
pliers.
Repeat step 5 for the second cable on the
other side of the rudder control horn.
6. Install the rudder servo in to the rudder servo
tray.
Note:
We have installed a double servo tray for
better rudder performance. This is a option.
We did not include the hardware for this
option.
7. Remove the cables from the servo tray.
Insert the cable through the brass tube and
then through the hole on the end of the rigging couplers.
Bend the end of the cable back through the
brass tube.
8.
repeat step 7 for the other cable.
9. Thread a 4-40 hex nut onto the rigging cou-
pler.
Thread a 4-40 metal clevis on to the rigging
coupler.
Clip the clevis to the rudder servo arm.repeat for the other cable.
10.
Pull on both cables till tight while keeping the
rudder straight and the servo arm centered.
When satisfied, loop the end of the cable
through the brass tube and crimp the tube with pliers.
Tighten the hex nut against the metal clevis.
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INSTALLING MAIN LANDING GEAR
1. Collect the following items:
(4) 3mm x 15 phillips Head Screw
(4) 3mm Lock Nut
(1) Main Aluminum Landing Gear
2. Remove the landing gear cover from the bot-
tom of the fuselage.
Insert the 3mm x 15 phillips head bolts
through the aluminum mounting brackets on both sides of the fuselage.
2. Place the landing gear on the fuselage.
Note: the landing gear should curve forward.
Thread the 3mm locking nut on to the bolt and
tighten.
Repeat for the other three boltsReinstall the landing gear cover.
WHEEL AND WHEEL PANTS
Collect the following items: (2) 5-32 x 1-1/4” Axle with Locking Nut (4) 5/32 Wheel Collars (4) 4-40 x 1/8” Cup Screws (4) 4-40 Blind Nuts (4) 4-40 x 1/2” Button Head Screws (2) 3-1/4” Wheels
1. Mount the axle to the landing gears.
2. Place the wheel pant onto the axle.
3. Align the bottom of the wheel pant with the
bottom of the landing gear.
4. Mark the hole locations on the wheel pants.
5. Drill 1/8” holes on the marks you just made.
6. Insert the 4-40 blind nuts inside the wheel
pants.
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Wheel Collars
Wheel Pant
Wheel
Landing Gear
7. Mount the wheel pants back on the landing gear along with the wheel collars and wheels.
8. Center the wheel on the axle.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
1. Collect the following items:
(2) Motor Mounts
(1) Engine
(8) 8-32 x 1-1/4” phillips Head Screw
(4) 8-32 Locking Nut
(8) #8 Washer
(4) 8-32 Blind Nut
2.  Place you engine in the mounts and adjust till the prop drive washer is 5-7/8” from the fire­wall. Clamp the engine in place and and mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill using a 11/64” bit.
Screw the engine onto the motor mount using
the 8-32 x 1-1/4”” screws and locking nuts.
3.  Keeping the engine perpendicular to the table top, clamp the other motor mount to the engine. Mark and drill the second motor mount then screw the mount to the engine.
4. Place the motor mount onto the firewall.
Center the motor over the horizontal and ver-
tical lines.
5.  Install the motor mount beams on to the fire- wall plate using the 8-32 x 1-1/4” phillips Head screws and washers and 8-32 blind nuts
USE THREAD LOCK ON ALL SCREWS
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2.  Drill a 1/8” hole in the firewall in position with
the throttle arm. Insert the 1/8” x 16” nylon tubing in the hole.
Let the tubing exit into the fuselage towards
the throttle servo mount.
Attach the EZ connector to the engine throttle.
Insert the pushrod into the tubing and through the EZ connector.
ENGINE THROTTLE INSTALLATION
1. Collect the following items:
(1) 1/8” x 16” nylon tubing
(1) .072 x 18” Threaded Rod
(1) EZ connector
(1) Snap Nut
(1) 4-40 x 1/8 Screw
(1) Nylon Snap Link
3. Install the throttle servo.
3. Thread the nylon snap link onto the wire.
Attach the thread link to the servo arm.
Gather the following items
(1) fuel tank (1) rubber tank stopper (1) clunk (1) 3mm x 25mm screw (1) cap washer large (1) cap washer small (2) 3mm x 40mm brass tube (1) 3mm x 60mm brass tube (1) silicone tube 4mm x 80mm (3) silicone tube 5mm x 165mm
1.  Insert the 3mm screw through the center hole
in the large washer, through the center hole in the rubber washer against the large side, and screw the small washer on the back side.
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
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2.  Insert the brass tubes through three of the
holes. They should be arranged so as the long one will be on the right side of the plane and the short one on the left side.
The tubes should extend out the front of the
cap 5/8”. Bend the long tube up at about a 20 degree angle. This should be adjusted so the end of the tube almost touches the top of the tank when installed.
3. Install the 4mm silicone tube to the short
brass tube and install the clunk to the other end of the silicone tube. This is the fuel pick­up and must be free to “flop” around in the tank so it can pick up fuel in any attitude.
4. Install the assembly into the tank so the vent
tube is turned up to the top of the tank and is positioned on the right side of the tank. Tighten the screw to expand the rubber cap. Don’t over tighten or you could split the tank.
5.  Attach the three pieces of 5mm tubing to the three tank outlets. They are different colors so you can tell which are the two vents and which is the fuel pickup after the tank is installed. Make a note of which color you attach to which tube. The short brass with the clunk is the fuel pickup and must go to the carburetor. One of the long brass tubes is the vent and should go to the pressure outlet on the muffler. The second vent can be used for filling the fuel tank but will have to be plugged with a screw (Not Included) so that the fuel will not run out.
INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK
1. Collect the following items:
(1) Fuel Tank
(1) Fuel Line
(4) #2 x 5/16 phillips Head Screw
(1) Wood Hatch Cover
2. Install the fuel tank into the fuselage.
Place some foam around the fuel tank (foam
not included).
Note:
If you are using a engine that needs to pressur-
ize the fuel system then wrap the fuel tank in
string reinforcing tape to prevent splitting when
under pressure.
The tank provided is for glow fuel only.
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3.  Place the hatch cover over the motor box.
Drill holes thought the hatch into the ends of the motor box sides.
Attach the hatch using the #2 x 5/16”
screws.
COWL INSTALLATION
1. Collect the following items:
(1) Cowl
(4) 4-40 x 3/4” Socket Head Bolt
(4) #4 Washer
You will have to remove any parts of the cowl that rub against the engine. Make these openings little at first and slowly make them bigger till the cowl fits over the engine with out touching. Do not forget to make an opening for the needle valve and the fuel lines.
2. Attach the cowl using the 4-40 x 3/4” socket
head bolts and #4 washers.
RECEIVER, BATTERY & SWITCH
Install your radio switch.
Install your receiver and battery pack accord-
ing to your radio instructions.
The Extra 330 has lots of room to move the
battery around to help with the CG. Do not make a final place till you have balanced the plane.
We placed our receiver in front of the
rudder servo and our 1200 Mah battery beside the fuel tank. The location of these items will vary with the engine used.
1.  Gather the following items (1) Right & Left Wing Panels
(2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/4” Nylon Bolt (1) Wing Tube
WING BOLTS
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2.  Slide the wing tube into one of the wing halves.
Slide the tube thru the fuselage.
Slide the second wing half onto the wing tube
coming out of the fuselage side.
Push the two wing halves together till they are
tight against the fuselage side.
Bolt the wing to the fuselage using a 1/4-20
nylon bolt.
HATCH & CANOPY
1. Gather the following items
(1) Canopy Hatch
(4) 4-40 x 1/2” Socket Head Bolt
(4) #4 Washer
(1) Canopy
Place wax paper.between the hatch and the
fuselage.
Using the 4-40 x 1/2” bolts and washers,
mount the hatch to the top of the fuselage.
Put in place the canopy over the fuselage
hatch.
Glue in place using canopy glue..
Balancing
Your model should balance at 5-3/4” to
6-3/4” back from the leading edge of the
wing next to the fuselage. For extreme 3D flying you may want to move the CG back even farther after you are comfort­able with the Extra 330. Just remember
that the further back you go the more
sensitive it will become. With extreme
throws the model can get beyond the
ability of novice pilots very quickly.
Start with the controls set at low rate with
the ailerons plus or minus 1/2”, the ele-
vator plus or minus 1” and the rudder
plus or minus 1-1/2”. High rate should be
all you can get.
Good Luck and I hope you enjoy flying
the Extra 330 ARF.
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17
FLYING YOUR EXTRA 330 ARF
Fully-charged flight batteries Radio transmitter 1 ½ volt starting battery & glo-plug clip Fuel bulb or pump Tools for tightening any parts that can vibrate and
loosen Paper toweling for clean up Extra props and an extra spinner Prop wrench Bottle of CA glue
FIELD KIT CHECKLIST
PRE-FLIGHT ACTIVITIES
Prior to going to the flying field, with radio batteries fully charged, turn on both receiver (Rx) and trans­mitter (Tx) and actuate all controls many times until you are satisfied with all functions.
Before beginning each day's flying, make a range check of your equipment in accordance with the man­ufacturer's instructions. In general, with transmitter antenna collapsed to 6"-8", you should have an at least 100 foot range on the ground. To check this, turn on both the transmitter and the receiver switch­es, set the model heading away from you, and walk away while transmitting signals. Watch to see that no signals are missed until you are at least 100 feet away. Only if the equipment works perfectly should any flights be attempted. Again, be careful to not use your transmitter when anyone else at the field is flying or testing on the same frequency!
After the range check, stand behind the model and make sure the control responses are correct. Moving the control stick to the right should give right aileron movement up. Moving the stick back or down on the Tx should move the elevator up, and vice versa.
Check also to see that your wheels operate properly Your throttle should open to permit full power when the stick or tab is moved forward or up. Finally, make sure that everything on your aircraft is neatly and firm­ly in place-motor fastened down, servos snugged down, receiver and battery wrapped in foam rubber, tank properly supported, etc. Prop and spinner must be tight. The receiver antenna must be extended, not coiled up inside the model. Nothing should be loose, or unfinished, or unchecked.
With everything ready, the engine should be started and broken in for a least a tank or two at no more than moderate speed. While the engine is running, make sure the control surfaces do not jitter or move until you command them and that the throttle also responds properly to your command.
CGP Super Tote
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