Carl Goldberg GBGA0059 User Manual

The SOPHISTICATED LADY is a sailplane design that blends simple straight-forward construction with

the elegant styling of a sleek, full-scale soaring machine. The clean lines have not compromised the
functionality of this model aircraft, which you will find a delight to fly both in thermals and on the slope
And if it's competition you desire, this "Lady" can compete with the best and look great in the winners'
circle!

Although a simple two-channel radio meets the minimum requirements for piloting this model, a third
channel is more desirable, enabling you to control airborne "power-on/power-off" commands when the
electric power pod is installed. The Carl Goldberg Products Electric Power Pod (Item #678) is an option­al accessory which provides power assistance for small-field launching, or when the towline is just too
much trouble. A small gas engine is also a power option. In addition, your sailplane so may be
launched via high start, hand tow, or winch, and, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area, you may wish
to simply pitch your glider off the slope. Whichever method you choose, the SOPHISTICATED LADY
will provide many hours of enjoyment.

WARNING!

THIS IS NOT A TOY! A radio-controlled model is not a toy and is not intended for persons under 16 years old. Keep this
kit out of the reach of younger children, as it contains parts that could be dangerous. A radio-controlled model is capable
of causing serious bodily injury and property damage. It is the buyer’s responsibility to build this kit correctly and to prop­erly install the motor, radio, and all other equipment. Test and fly the finished model only in the presence and with the assis­tance of another experienced R/C flyer. The model must always be operated and flown using great care and common
sense, as well as in accordance with the safety standards of the Academy of Model Aeronautics (5151 Memorial Drive,
Muncie, IN 47302, 1-800-435-9262). We suggest you join the AMA and become properly insured prior to flying this model.
Also, consult with the AMA or your local hobby dealer to find an experienced instructor in your area. Per the Federal
Communications Commission, you are required to use only those radio frequencies specified “for Model Aircraft.”

Pt. # 2083 1/02

INSTRUCTIONS

Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd.

P.O. Box 818 4462 Oakwood Road Oakwood, GA 30566 Phone # [phone]

Fax # [phone] E-mail: [e-mail]

©Copyright 1986

Sophisticated Lady

ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE KIT

1 RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (2-CHANNEL

MINIMUM)

2 2-OZ. BOTTLE CA GLUE

2 ROLLS OF IRON ON COVERING

1 TUB JET MODEL MATE™ FILLER

1 BOX OF EPOXY

1 BOX #64 RUBBER BANDS

UltraCote is a registered trademark of Horizon Hobby Distributors

ADDITIONAL ITEMS FOR REMOVABLE WINGTIP

1/8” x 3” x 18” HARD BALSA SHEET

PIECE 3/32” x 12” MUSIC WIRE

3/32 I.D. x 6” BRASS TUBE

3/4” VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE

OPTIONAL ITEMS

1/2” x 8” x 12” CGM FOAM RUBBER

FUEL PROOF PAINT

SERVO MOUNTING TAPE

CGP SCUFF GUARD

TRANSPARENT SPRAY ENAMEL FOR
CANOPY

NECESSARY TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

MISCELLANEOUS RUBBER BANDS

WAXED PAPER

MODELING KNIFE AND RAZOR BLADES

SANDPAPER (ASSORTED GRITS, INCLUDING
MEDIUM (150) AND FINE (220-320)

SANDING BLOCK

"T" PINS (at least 75)

BUILDING BOARD (24" x 60")

ELECTRIC DRILL

1/16" ABD 1/8" DRILL BIT

ALLEN WRENCH (.050 FOR #4 SOCKET SET
SCREW)

SMALL SCREWDRIVER (1/8” BLADE TIP)

MASKING TAPE

SMALL PLIERS
COVERING IRON (OR SMALL HOUSEHOLD
IRON)

HEAT GUN (OPTIONAL)

10" 30-60-90 DRAFTING TRIANGLE

YARDSTICK

FLEXIBLE STRAIGHT-EDGE

PENCIL

LIMITED WARRANTY

Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd. takes pride in the care and attention given to the manufacture of its model airplane kits.
The company warrants replacement of any materials found to be defective for their intended use, prior to their use in
construction of the aircraft, provided the buyer requests such replacement within a period of one year from the date of
purchase and provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by the company.

No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the company with respect to this kit. The buyer acknowledges and
understands that it is his responsibility to carefully construct a finished flying model airplane and to fly it safely. The
buyer hereby assumes full responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out
of the buyer's use of the components of this kit.

2

SELECTING RADIO CONTROL EQUIPMENT

Radio sets are battery powered with either dry cells
or the more reliable, rechargeable nickel-cadmium
(ni-cad) batteries. Although ni-cad powered units
are more expensive, the cost of routinely replacing
worn out batteries may be much higher in the long
run. Many of the radio systems now available fea­ture "servo reversing" switches which allow you to
reverse the response of the servo. This simplifies
radio installation and is worth considering.
Exponential or dual rates are popular features
which, if used properly, can help smooth out the
flight of a sensitive model. Your local hobby dealer
should be able to help you select the proper radio
for your needs and skill level. Consider reliability
and service, as well as price. And be sure to get a
system designated for aircraft, as only certain fre­quencies are available for model aircraft.

USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Before you start gluing and sanding, take some time
becoming familiar with the plans and looking through this
entire Instruction Booklet. It is designed to guide you through
the construction process step by step, so build in the order
given in this book. Building options, as well as balancing, set­up, and flying the model are covered.

Like a full-size airplane, the SOPHISTICATED LADY is
built from basic structures (stabilizer, fin, wing, etc.), which
are then assembled into the complete airplane.

Special procedures or comments will usually be
explained before a step, so you will be prepared. If a step
begins with a statement like "Note," "Warning," or "Important,"
it is a good idea to read through the step before doing it.

A check-off box appears at the beginning of each step.
Check these boxes as you build, so you can tell at a glance
what steps you have completed. Some steps are repeated
and must be marked twice, as in the case of the left and right
wing panel.

Some of the instructions deal with general procedures.
Boxes are not needed for these sections.

HOW TO READ THE PLAN

There is one plan sheet in this kit, showing the Fuselage
(Body), the Wing, and the Tail Parts. Everything on the plan
is drawn to full-size and shape and shows how the finished
parts fit together.

The plan is drawn to show the model completely assem­bled, but as a result, the areas inside or underneath are cov­ered up, making it hard to understand how these parts fit
together. Therefore, for clarity, some parts are drawn with
hidden lines, others with breakaway views, and some are
entirely removed from the structure and shown separately.

For example, on the fuselage, the left side of the complet­ed model has been removed to show the details inside.
Sometimes a surface is broken away to reveal the detail
behind or underneath. Dashed lines indicate details that are
hidden behind or under another part of the surface.

The model is made from four varieties of wood: balsa,
bass, birch, and various plywoods. Each kind of wood has its
own characteristic end grain pattern (as viewed from the end)
which has been drawn on the plan. You can easily use these
end grain patterns to identify what kind of wood is shown for
a part, if you are in doubt.

INTRODUCTION

HOW TO USE THE PLAN

The plan is used in several ways. The wings, stabilizer, and
fin are assembled directly over the plan. Each wood part is
matched over its corresponding location printed on the plan
and pinned in place. To prevent ruining your plan from gluing
your wings, etc. to it, cover the area you are working on with
waxed paper.

The paper the plan is printed on can expand or con­tract slightly with changes in temperature or humidity.
Because of this, a preformed part such as the notched
wing trailing edge may not exactly match the plan. This

is no problem, as slight deviations in the outline or size will not
noticeably affect flight performance.

Because the fuselage plugs together and is self-aligning,
it is not built directly over the plan. As you assemble the fuse­lage, you will find the plan helpful in identifying parts and how
things fit together.

IDENTIFYING PARTS

Parts for the wing are bundled together; likewise, parts
for the tail assembly are also grouped. Die-cut plywood and
balsa sheets of common sizes are bundled together, so they
are less likely to be damaged during shipping and handling.

The various screws, hinges, and fittings are packaged in
plastic bags.

The plan also shows the installation of a typical radio,
battery and all remaining equipment and hardware needed to
complete the model. By referring to the examples shown, you
should be able to install your own radio, etc., even if it is not
the same as what is shown on the plan.

PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY

Set a flat, warp-free pinning board on your work bench.
Any material that accepts pins, such as insulation board, soft
plywood, or dry-wall (sheet rock) will work. Important: any
warps or bends in the pinning board will result in wings or tail
surfaces that are also warped or bent, making your model
more difficult to fly. Make sure that the pinning board is flat by
laying a straight edge across it. You may be able to correct a
warped board by shimming its low areas.

Position the area of the plan (such as the stabilizer) on
which you are going to build over the pinning board and tape
it in place so the plan lays flat and wrinkle free.

Place a sheet of waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap over
the work area to prevent CA from sticking to your plan and
ruining it.

CONSTRUCTION TIPS

In assembling your model, the following tips will prove

helpful.

IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD.
This will alert you to coming instructions and will help you plan
accordingly.

You may find it convenient to empty all of the small parts
from the hardware bags into a common container, such as a
margarine tub. This will help you find items quickly.

When drilling any 1/16" holes in balsa, you may find it
easier to twist the drill between your thumb and index finger.
This procedure allows more control in positioning the drill on
the center mark.

Punch out only the die-cut (D/C) parts you need as you
proceed. This will help you keep track of parts, especially the
small ones.

Sometimes you will be asked to “tack cement” a piece of
wood that will later be taken apart. To provide for easy
removal without damage, use only a small drop of glue.

After completing each section of the aircraft, you may
want to go back and reglue the joints, just in case some area
has been missed. Be careful not to use too little glue, which
will leave the model weak, or too much glue, which can make
the model heavy. Properly glued joints are important to the
overall strength of the model. CA glue is recommended for
most parts of the assembly, although epoxy may be used
when more time is needed for careful placement.

3

ABOUT THE WOOD IN THE KIT

We strive to supply good quality materials in your kit.
Wood parts are inspected with regard to the function
they will serve. If an imperfection is spotted in a scrap
corner of a die-cut sheet and doesn't affect actual parts,
the sheet is considered acceptable. Also, internal
stresses in wood are relieved as it is cut into parts.
These relieved stresses may cause some parts to bow.
Bows in wood parts (such as leading edges) readily
straighten out as they are glued into a structural unit

WOOD PARTS

Be careful when removing parts (such as fuselage
sides) from the die-cut sheets. Long parts are fragile
until Super Jeted into a structural unit. If necessary, use
a razor knife or razor saw to assist in the removal of
parts from the sheet. Sometimes a little trimming and
sanding can improve parts, where desired. Save scrap
until the model is completed, in case a part is missing
or damaged. Also, scrap is used in some building steps.

4

SHEET 4001 WING RIBS 5/64 x 2-7/8 x 24" 2 REQ’D.

SHEET 4002 WING RIBS 5/64 x 2-7/8 x 24"” 2 REQ’D.

D/CSHEET 5902 5/64 x 2-7/8 x24" 2 REQ’D.

D/C SHT. 4014 1/8x2-1/4x13" PLY 2 REQ'D

D/C SHT. 4012 1/16 x 3 x 24" 2 REQ'D.

D/C SHT. 4013 1/16 x 3 x 24" 2 REQ'D/

D/C SHT. 4009 1/8 x 2-3/8x17" PLY 1 REQ'D.

D/C SHT. 5903 5/64 x 3 x 24" 2 REQ'D.

D/C SHT. 5905 1/8 x 2-1/2 x 24" 1 REQ'D.

D/C SHT. 5906 5/16 x 2-1/2 x 24" 1 REQ'D.

D/C SHT. 5907 1/16 x 3 x 9-7/8" 1 REQ'D.

D/C SHT. 5904 3/16 x2-1/2 x 18" 1 REQ'D.

D/C SHT. 5901 5/64 x 3 x36" ” 2 REQ’D.

WING POLYHEDRAL

JOINERS

TAIL SKID

YOKE

BALLAST BULKHEAD

FIN PART #1

FIN PART #2

FUSE SIDE DOUBLER

FUSE BOTTOM SHEETING

COCKPIT FRONT FORMER

COCKPIT PLATFORM

COCKPIT REAR FORMER

BEVELING TOOL

WING GAUGE

MOTOR SWITCH MOUNT

JOINER CLAMPS

SERVO MOUNTING RAIL

FUSE SIDE

NOT NEEDED IN THIS KIT

INBOARD PANEL L.E. SHEETING

STAB CENTER PLATFORM

WING/TAIL GUSSETS

STAB L.E. JOINER

RUDDER TOP

DORSAL FIN

STAB TIPS

VERT.FIN BOTTOM

RUDDER BOTTOM

FRONT BULKHEAD

REAR BULKKHEAD

FIN PART #3

FIN PART #5

POWER POD RIB #1

BULKHEAD DOUBLERS

FIN PART #6

FIN PART #4

FUSE TOP

FUSE BOTTOM

FRONT FORMER

CANOPY REST

WING CENTER JOINERS

OUTBOARD PANEL L.E. SHEETING

MID-CENTER SHEETING

END VIEW OF STRIP WOOD PARTS

BASSWOOD BALSA

FRONT SPAR

1/4 x 13/32”

REAR SPAR

1/8 x 3/8”

FRONT SPAR

1/4 x 3/8”

REAR SPAR

1/8 x 3/8”

1/4” SQUARE

17-7/8”

INBOARD L.E. = 20-3/4” LONG

OUTBOARD L.E. = 17-5/8” LONG

ELEVATOR L.E.

3/16 x 3/8”

ELEVATOR

TRUSS

5/64 x 3/16”

RUDDER T.E.

8-1/4” LONG

ELEVATOR.

20-3/4” LONG

INBOARD T.E. = 20-3/4” LONG

OUTBOARD T.E. = 17-1/2” LONG

HATCH RAIL

1/8” SQ.

INBOARD WING SPAR

OUTBOARD WING SPAR

WING LEADING
EDE (L.E.)

WING TRAILING
EDGE (T.E.)

PUSHROD

5

AIRPLANE STRUCTURE

NOSE BLOCK

CHIN BLOCK

TOW HOOK

WING ASSEMBLY

COCKPIT DETAIL

CANOPY

OUTBOARD

PANEL

RUDDER

HINGES

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

TAIL ASSEMBLY

ELEVATOR

CENTER SHEETING

FUSELAGE

LEADING EDGE

LEADING EDGE SHEETING

TRAILING EDGE

COCKPIT PLATFORM

INBOARD PANEL

MAIN & REAR SPAR

RIBS

TAIL CONSTRUCTION

1.  Collect the following items.

(4) 3/16 x 3/8 x21” BALSA PT. #4853
(1) 1-3/4 SQ. x 21” BALSA PT. #4696
(3) 5/64 X 3/16 X 24” BALSA PT. #4698
(1) 1/2” SQ. x 8-1/4” BALSA PT. #4701
(1) CENTERLINE MARKER PT. #1425
(7) SMALL FLEX-POINT HINGE PT. #1448
(1) FIN HINGE POST PT. #4560
(1) .034 ID / .064 OD x 36" TUBING PT. #5682
(2) D/C SHEET 5903 BALSA PT. #3403

containing fin parts #1 and #2

(1) D/C SHEET 5904 BALSA PT. #3404

containing: fin bottom, rudder,
dorsal fin, stap tips, stab L.E. joiner

gussets, stab center platform
(1) D/C SHEET 5907 PT. #3407
(1) D/C SHEET 5906 BALSA PT. #3406

containing: fin parts #3, #4, #5, #6
(2) D/C SHEET 4014 PLY PT. #3614

2.  Lay the horizontal stabilizer portion of the plan
over the building board and cover with waxed
paper.

 Buidling over the plan, pin in position and glue

the leading edge joiner to the center platform.

5.  Still working over the plan, and using the tech-
nique shown above, cut 5/64 x 3/16” balsa
sticks to form stab trussing. Trim carefully to
size, so that each truss fits in place without
forcing. SAVE THE SCRAP MATERIAL!

6.  When satisfied with the fit, glue in place.

 Glue the gussets in place and allow the entire

stab to dry thoroughly.

7.  Referring to the plan, mark the hinge locations
on the top of the trailing edge with a soft pen­cil.

 Using 3 or 4 drops of Super Jet™, tack-cement

the elevator to the stab.

 Carefully transfer the hinge location marks

onto the elevator.

3.  Carefully cut two 3/16 X 3/8” balsa sticks to
form the stabilizer leading edge. Make sure to
exactly match the plan from the center mark to
the tips.

IMPORTANT! SAVE SCRAP MATERIAL FOR USE IN
CONSTRUCTING THE FUSELAGE.

 Pin the pieces in position and glue at the cen-

ter joint.

4.  Using additional 3/16 x 3/8” balsa sticks, con-
tinue building the stab outline by pinning and
gluing the trailing edge and stab tips in place,
as shown above.

GUSSET

8.  Using a sanding block, flat sand the stab and
round the outer edges. Sand the elevator tips
to blend with the stab.

6

9.  Carefully remove the die cut fin parts and light-

ly sand any rough edges.

10.  Building over the plan, glue part #1 to part #2.

 Place part #3 on top of part #1, making sure that

the notches are aligned and the leading edges
are flush. When the parts are aligned, glue in
place.

11.  Position part #4 on top of part #2, as shown.
Then glue in place.

12.  Add part #5 to the assembly, sandwiching the
1/16" outside diameter nylon tube in place
between part #3 and part #5.

 Make sure the tube lies flat and that it extends

1/8" past the trailing edge (T.E.) of the fin.

 Glue part #5 in place.

13.  Glue part #6 in place, sandwiching the remainder
of the tube into the fin assembly.

14.  Glue the remaining parts #1 and #2 to the fin
assembly and trim the nylon tube flush with the
trailing edge of part #2.

15.  Glue the 3/16" D/C fin bottom and 3/16 x 1/2"
balsa hinge post to the fin assembly.

16.  Cut the fin ribs from 5/64 x 3/16" strip balsa and
glue in place, as shown above right.

17.  Glue the 3/16 D/C balsa top and bottom to the
3/16 x 3/8" rudder hinge post. Then glue the
shaped T.E. in place.

18.  From 5/64 x 3/16" balsa, cut all trusses to size
and glue in place.

19.  Flat sand the rudder/fin assembly, rounding the
fin L.E. and blending the rudder bottom with the
T.E.

7

1

2

3

2

1

5

1

GLUE DORSAL
FIN

BOTTOM

WING CONSTRUCTION

IMPORTANT: YOU WILL BE BUILDING A RIGHT AND THEN A LEFT
WING. FOLLOW THE STEPS CAREFULLY TO AVOID CONFUSION.

1.  Collect the following items:

(2) D/C SHT. 4001 (5/64” Balsa) PT. #3601

Contains: WING RIBS

(2) D/C SHT. 4002 (5/64” Balsa) PT. #3602

Contains: WING RIBS

(1) D/C SHT. 4009 (1/8” Ply) PT. #3609

Contains: WING CENTER JOINERS

(2) D/C SHT. 4012 (1/16” Balsa) PT. #3612

Contains: WING SHEETING

(2) D/C SHT. 4013 (1/16” Balsa) PT. #3613

Contains: INBOARD PANEL
L.E. WING SHEETING

(2) D/C SHT. 4014 (1/8" Ply) PT. #3614

Contains: GAUGES & CLAMPS
(4) BALSA SHEET 1/16x3x12” PT. #4600
(2) INBOARD T.E.LONG PT. #4688
(2) OUTBOARD T.E.SHORT PT. #4689
(2) INBOARD L.E. LONG PT. #4690
(2) OUTBOARD L.E. SHORT PT. #4691
(2) INBOARD MAIN SPAR Bass PT. #4692
(2) OUTBOARD MAIN SPAR PT. #4694
(2) INBOARD REAR SPAR Bass PT. #4855
(2) OUTBOARD REAR SPAR balsa PT. #4874
(1) 3/4 X 38” NYLON FABRIC PT. #9524
(1) 1 x 6” ALUMINUM STRIP PT. #1390

2.  Working over the RIGHT INBOARD PANEL of
the plan, place a 1/4” x 13/32” basswood spar
main spar so that the spar end is aligned with
the wing center on the plan.

NOTE: If building the second half of the wing, you

will be working over the LEFT INBOARD
PANEL. DO NOT BUILD TWO RIGHT WINGS!

 Hold the spar in place by cross-pinning

between the ribs at the circle locations shown
on the plan.

 Using no pins, position the rear spar on the

plan.

8

4.  Position the wing leading edge (L.E.) in place

over the plan and pin.

 Secure the ends of both spars with pins, as

shown.

5.  Remove the two #5 ribs nearest the wing cen-
ter.

 Position and glue all remaining #5 ribs, as

shown on the plan.

IMPORTANT! IF BUILDING THE LEFT WING, PRO­CEED DIRECTLY TO STEP 10.

3.  Align the notches in the wing trailing edge (T.E)

with those shown on the plan.

 Using no glue, position the four #5 ribs as

shown above. Hook each rib over the main
spar and then over the rear spar, as you go.

NOTCHED END

NO NOTCH

DO NOT GLUE THESE
RIBS AT THIS TIME

6.  Noting that the rear spar joiner has a tapered
end, fit the front and rear spar joiners into posi­tion as shown.

 Glue the joiners to the spars and, referring to

the plan, hold in place with the gauges. Allow
to dry.

7.  Taking care to make sure that the grain of the
sheeting will run parrallel to the spars, L.E. and
T.E., cut t hr ee 3-1/4” pieces fro m a 1/16 x 3 x
24” balsa sheet.

8.  Slide one piece of sheeting forward until it just
touches the L.E. Gently holding the sheet in
position, mark the spar location on both of the
rear corners of the sheet.

 Remove the sheet from the wing and, using a

metal straight edge, carefully trim the sheeting
so that, when the piece is laid flat, it just fits
between the L.E. and the spar.

MARK MARK

MATCH WING GAUGE
POSITIONS TO PLAN

REAR SPAR
JOINER HAS
TAPERED ENDS.

WOOD GRAIN MUST BE PARALLEL TO SPARS, L.E. AND T.E.

9

 Fit the first sheeting piece between the spars

and, holding it flat to the building board, Super
Jet the edges to the spars.

 Install the other two sheeting pieces in the

same manner.

9.  Position ribs #2, 3, and 4, making sure to align
the rib fronts over the front guide lines on the
plan.

 When satisfied with the alignment, glue to the

L.E., the bottom sheeting, the spars, and the
T.E.

10.  Pin the outboard main spar in place over the
plan. Then set the rear spar and the T.E. in
place.

IMPORTANT! The outboard T.E. has no notch at one
end. This unnotched end must be at the polyhedral
joint, as shown.

POLYHEDRAL
JOINT

NOTCHED
END

 Following the same procedure, trim and fit two

more sheeting pieces for the bottom center
section.

11.  Using no glue, set ribs #7, 9,12, and 15 in their
respective T.E. notches, hooking them over the
spars as you go.

 Making sure the T.E. and the ribs are correctly

aligned over the plan, pin in place.

 Glue the ribs to the spars and the T.E.

12.  Pin the outboard L.E. in place and glue it to the
ribs.

13.  One at a time, position and then glue the
remaining ribs #8 through #14 in place. Let dry
thoroughly.

NOTE: IF YOU ARE CONSTRUCTING A ONE­PIECE WING, CONTINUE AT STEP 14. IF YOU
WISH TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE WING TIP,
REFER TO THE FOLLOWING OPTIONAL
INSTRUCTIONS.

DO NOT GLUE
IN THIS AREA

10

NOTE: The materials needed to make the wing tip
removable are NOT INCLUDED in your kit.
Necessary templates for this option are found in
the upper right corner of the wing half of the plan.

Follow these steps ONLY IF YOU WANT TO BE
ABLE TO REMOVE THE WING TIPS. Otherwise,
continue at Step 14.

REMOVABLE TIP OPTION

A.  Collect the following items:

1/8” x 3” x 18” HARD BALSA SHEET
3/32” x 12” MUSIC WIRE
3/32 I.D. x 6” BRASS TUBE
3/34” VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE

SANDING
BLOCK

SANDING
ANGLE TEM­PLATE

POSITION & GLUE
SCRAP PLY TO BACK SO
THAT FRON MATCHES
WITH TEMPLATE.

B.  Make a sanding block from 1/8” scrap plywood,

using the SANDING ANGLE TEMPLATE from
the plan. Make sure to establish tthe proper
sanding block angle, as show above.

C.  From the 1/8” hard balsa sheet, cut four NEW

#6 ribs. DO NOT USE THE #6 die cut ribs
that are included with your kit.

D.  Remove the pins from the inboard panel and

use the sanding block to gently sand the poly­hedral ends of the spars, the L.E., and the T.E.
to insure uniform vertical surfaces.

E.  Referring to Step 14 for correct use of the die-

cut wing gauges, raise the inboard wing panel,
as shown.

3/32” I.D. TUBE 3/32” WIRE

INBOARD PANEL

F.  Position the 3/32 x 3” wire on the back of the

spars, as shown.