How it Works
Carl Goldberg
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GBGA0040
User Manual
40 pgs1.8 Mb0

Carl Goldberg GBGA0040 User Manual

Welcome to the carefree radio control experience that is Electra. With the flip of a switch you’re flying! No fuel or messy exhaust oil to clean. No adjustments to make on an engine. Electra performs like a thoroughbred but has a stable pony temperament. She is based on the proven and popular Gentle Lady sport sailplane, but has been modified for the higher performance demands of electric flight. Building is easy, but carefully FOL­LOW THESE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS to prevent simple mistakes. Many a modeler has built two right wings because he failed to follow the instructions. You’ll also find many installation and flying tips includ­ed. We think you will find electric flying to be a quiet, yet exciting change of pace−maybe even “Electra-fying!”
WARNING!
Pt. # 2083 4/00
INSTRUCTIONS
© copyright 1986
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE KIT
RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (2-CHANNEL MINIMUM)
6 CELL 7.2 VOLT BATTERY PACK
2-OZ. BOTTLE CA GLUE
3 ROLLS COVERING
1 TUB JET MODEL MATE™ FILLER
BOX OF #64 RUBBER BANDS
BATTERY CHARGER
SPOOL OF SEWING THREAD
ADDITIONAL ITEMS FOR REMOVABLE WINGTIP
1/8” x 3” x 18” HARD BALSA SHEET
3/32” x 12” MUSIC WIRE
3/32 I.D. x 6” BRASS TUBE
3/4” VINYL ELECTRICAL TAPE
OPTIONAL ITEMS
1/2” x 8” x 12” CGP FOAM RUBBER
FUEL PROOF PAINT™
SERVO MOUNTING TAPE
SPARE MOTOR FUSES
1-1/2” WHEEL
3/32” x 8” WIRE
3/32” WHEEL COLLAR
3/8” LANDING GEAR STRAP
TRANSPARENT SPRAY ENAMEL FOR CANOPY
FOR USE WITH CGP TURBO 550 MOTOR AND
3-CHANNEL RADIO SYSTEM
BRACKET
SNAP-R KEEPER
SNAP NUTS
PUSHROD CONNECTOR
NECESSARY TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
MISCELLANEOUS RUBBER BANDS
WAXED PAPER
MODELING KNIFE AND RAZOR BLADES
SANDPAPER (ASSORTED GRITS, INCLUDING MEDIUM (150) AND FINE (220-320)
SANDING BLOCK
"T" PINS (at least 75)
BUILDING BOARD (24" x 60")
ELECTRIC DRILL
1/16" DRILL BIT
ALLEN WRENCH (.050 FOR #4 SOCKET SET SCREW)
SMALL SCREWDRIVER (1/8” BLADE TIP)
MASKING TAPE
SMALL PLIERS COVERING IRON (OR SMALL HOUSEHOLD IRON)
HEAT GUN (OPTIONAL)
10" 30-60-90 DRAFTING TRIANGLE
LIMITED WARRANTY
Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd. takes pride in the care and attention given to the manufacture of its model airplane kits. The company warrants replacement of any materials found to be defective for their intended use, prior to their use in construction of the aircraft, provided the buyer requests such replacement within a period of one year from the date of purchase and provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by the company.
No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the company with respect to this kit. The buyer acknowl­edges and understands that it is his responsibility to carefully construct a finished flying model airplane and to fly it safely. The buyer hereby assumes full responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyer's use of the components of this kit.
2
USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Before you start gluing and sanding, take some time becoming familiar with the plans and looking through this entire Instruction Booklet. It is designed to guide you through the construction process step by step, so build in the order given in this book. Building options, as well as balancing, set­up, and flying the model are covered.
Like a full-size airplane, the ELECTRA is built from basic structures (stabilizer, fin, wing, etc.), which are then assem­bled into the complete airplane.
Special procedures or comments will usually be explained before a step, so you will be prepared. If a step begins with a statement like "Note," "Warning," or "Important," it is a good idea to read through the step before doing it.
A check-off box appears at the beginning of each step. Check these boxes as you build, so you can tell at a glance what steps you have completed. Some steps are repeated and must be marked twice, as in the case of the left and right wing panel.
Some of the instructions deal with general procedures. Boxes are not needed for these sections.
HOW TO READ THE PLAN
There is one plan sheet in this kit, showing the Fuselage (Body), the Wing, and the Tail Parts. Everything on the plan is drawn to full-size and shape and shows how the finished parts fit together.
The plan is drawn to show the model completely assem­bled, but as a result, the areas inside or underneath are cov­ered up, making it hard to understand how these parts fit together. Therefore, for clarity, some parts are drawn with hidden lines, others with breakaway views, and some are entirely removed from the structure and shown separately.
For example, on the fuselage, the left side of the com­pleted model has been removed to show the details inside. Sometimes a surface is broken away to reveal the detail behind or underneath. Dashed lines indicate details that are hidden behind or under another part of the surface.
The model is made from four varieties of wood: balsa, bass, birch, and various plywoods. Each kind of wood has its own characteristic end grain pattern (as viewed from the end) which has been drawn on the plan. You can easily use these end grain patterns to identify what kind of wood is shown for a part, if you are in doubt.
INTRODUCTION
HOW TO USE THE PLAN
The plan is used in several ways. The wings, stabilizer, and fin are assembled directly over the plan. Each wood part is matched over its corresponding location printed on the plan and pinned in place. To prevent ruining your plan from gluing your wings, etc. to it, cover the area you are working on with waxed paper.
The paper the plan is printed on can expand or con­tract slightly with changes in temperature or humidity. Because of this, a preformed part such as the notched wing trailing edge may not exactly match the plan. This
is no problem, as slight deviations in the outline or size will not noticeably affect flight performance.
Because the fuselage plugs together and is self-aligning, it is not built directly over the plan. As you assemble the fuse­lage, you will find the plan helpful in identifying parts and how things fit together.
IDENTIFYING PARTS
Parts for the wing are bundled together; likewise, parts for the tail assembly are also grouped. Die-cut plywood and balsa sheets of common sizes are bundled together, so they are less likely to be damaged during shipping and handling.
The various screws, hinges, and fittings are packaged in plastic bags.
The plan also shows the installation of a typical radio, battery and all remaining equipment and hardware needed to complete the model. By referring to the examples shown, you should be able to install your own radio, etc., even if it is not the same as what is shown on the plan.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
Set a flat, warp-free pinning board on your work bench. Any material that accepts pins, such as insulation board, soft plywood, or dry-wall (sheet rock) will work. Important: any warps or bends in the pinning board will result in wings or tail surfaces that are also warped or bent, making your model more difficult to fly. Make sure that the pinning board is flat by laying a straight edge across it. You may be able to correct a warped board by shimming its low areas.
Position the area of the plan (such as the stabilizer) on which you are going to build over the pinning board and tape it in place so the plan lays flat and wrinkle free.
Place a sheet of waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap over the work area to prevent Super Jet from sticking to your plan and ruining it.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
In assembling your model, the following tips will prove
helpful.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD. This will alert you to coming instructions and will help you plan accordingly.
You may find it convenient to empty all of the small parts from the hardware bags into a common container, such as a margarine tub. This will help you find items quickly.
When drilling any 1/16" holes in balsa, you may find it easier to twist the drill between your thumb and index finger. This procedure allows more control in positioning the drill on the center mark.
Punch out only the die-cut (D/C) parts you need as you proceed. This will help you keep track of parts, especially the small ones.
Sometimes you will be asked to “tack cement” a piece of wood that will later be taken apart. To provide for easy removal without damage, use only a small drop of glue.
After completing each section of the aircraft, you may want to go back and reglue the joints, just in case some area has been missed. Be careful not to use too little glue, which will leave the model weak, or too much glue, which can make the model heavy. Properly glued joints are important to the overall strength of the model. Super Jet™ is recommended for most parts of the assembly, although Jet Epoxy may be used when more time is needed for careful placement.
3
ADHESIVES & GLUING TECHNIQUES
The ELECTRA was designed for fast assembly using SUPER JET™ CA (cyanoacrylate adhesive), which is spe­cially formulated to firmly glue the plywood, hardwood, and balsa used in your model and to withstand vibration. However, there are times, such as when you are installing the stabilizer and fin on the fuselage and want more set-up time for careful alignment and positioning, when you should use JET EPOXY™. Occasionally, you also will want to use INTANT JET™, which "wicks" into the surrounding areas. Aliphatic resin glue or similar water-based glues can also be used, but they will add to the assembly time because they dry so much more slowly than SUPER JET™.
WARNING
Never use watery THIN type CA glue for gluing plywood and hardwood parts. Thin CA's do not adequately bond these areas.
SUPER JET™ is strongly recommended for most model building tasks because, when pressed into a very thin layer, it sets almost instantly. After the initial bond, SUPER JET™ continues to strengthen. However, because of SUPER JET's™ quick set-up, you must be careful to read instruc­tions thoroughly, as you will have only seconds for positioning of parts. Be sure to trial fit parts together before gluing.
SUPER JET™ is used in two general ways. One is to apply the CA to one part and then press the two parts to be glued together. Or, you can position parts in contact and then run SUPER JET™ into the joint. As it seeps into the joint, it will leave a slight reinforcing fillet. If you don't see a slight fil­let, the CA has soaked into the wood edges and a second coat is needed.
SUPER JET™ sets up a bit slower with plywood and other harder woods, so hold such parts together a little longer than you would for balsa. Corner fillets take even longer to dry because there is a thick layer. To speed up such slow drying joints, use JET SET™, an accelerator for all brands of CA glue. JET SET™ bridges greater gaps, speeds up slow bonds, and provides strong glue joint fillets.
Epoxy glues come in two parts which need to be mixed before using. When buying epoxy, check to see how long the glue takes to set. We recommend either JET 6 MINUTE EPOXY™ or JET 20 MINUTE EPOXY™. Disposable wood strips, cotton swabs, cheap stiff bristle brushes or acid brush­es from auto stores make good applicators. Because epoxy is so thick, it is easy to apply too much. Use sparingly, espe­cially when assembling the fin, stabilizer, and wings.
CAUTION. Some people may experience an allergic reaction when exposed to fumes from CA glue or epoxy. As with paints, thinners, and solvents, it is always important to use glues only where there is adequate ventilation to carry fumes away. A fan is recommended. Also, special care must be taken when using CA, as it will bond skin as well as other surfaces. JET DE-SOLV™ is a CA solvent which removes hardened glue from fingers and softens glued joints for repo­sitioning. Before using any CA, carefully read all label pre­cautions. When using CA, protective eye-wear and care in keeping the glue away from the face is highly recommended. If CA does happen to get into the eye, hold lid open and flush with water only. Seek immediate medical attention.
CHOOSING A RADIO
IMPORTANT: When selecting a radio, remember that there are many radio frequencies available, but not all of these frequencies can be used legally to operate model air­planes. Be sure to tell your dealer that you want a radio with a "Model Airplane" frequency.
Although the ELECTRA is designed to fly on 2 or 3­channel radio equipment, we recomend you purchase at least a 4-channel radio with 3 servos. This will be more useful, if later you wish to move up to more sophisticated aircraft.
4
In flight, the model is controlled by using the rudder and the elevator (see drawing). One radio channel controls the rud­der, which is the primary turn control. It rolls, or "banks" the model. Another channel operates the elevator, which controls the pitch (climbing, level flight, and descent). The third chan­nel is for the motor.
Radios are battery powered with rechargeable nickel­cadmium batteries (ni-cads). Such sets come equipped with a recharging unit. Also, many of the radio systems now avail­able feature "servo reversing" switches which allow the pilot to reverse the response of the servo. This feature simplifies installation and is a worthwhile consideration when selecting a radio system. Other radios come with a variety of sophisti­cated features, such as dual rates, exponential and control mixing, etc. These features are typically used by more advanced flyers and are not necessary for flying the ELEC-
TRA.
MOTORS & PROPELLERS
The Carl Goldberg Models TURBO 550 Motor is includ­ed in your ELECTRA kit because it has excellent perform­ance and will provide you with a good climb for four minutes or more, using a standard 6-cell battery and 8-4 prop. If you don’t mind spending more, you can power your ELECTRA with various other power units. We suggest you consult your hobby retailer or a modeler who has experience in electric flight. Since electric flight has become an increasingly popu­lar option for sport fliers, the technology has been changing rapidly.
The Turbo 550 Motor System is equipped with an in-line fuse. Without a fuse, the motor or battery could be perma­nently damaged if the prop is installed or jammed while the motor is running. If you plan to buy another brand of motor, make sure it has a fuse or, if it doesn’t, ask your dealer how to install one.
An 8-4 nylon prop also is included in your kit. It is the best all-round prop to use with the Turbo 550. Although some wood props may give better climb, they can break easily in a slightly rough landing. If you use a geared or cobalt motor, refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations on props.
BATTERY CHARGERS
Many different battery chargers are available and most work quite well. For the best advice, see your local hobby dealer. If there isn’t one nearby, here is a brief description of the various types of chargers and how they work.
Some chargers use 12 volts, such as in a car battery, and some use 120 volt house current. Some will work on both 12 and 120 volts and most will accomplish a quick charge in 20 minutes or less. A handy accessory to have is a digital volt meter.
BASIC CHARGERS (with a mechanical timer) work well, but must be used with care to avoid overcharging your batteries. These are generally the least expensive chargers.
AUTOMATIC WITH DELTA (PEAK) DETECTION CHARG­ERS are more expensive, but very easy to use. Just hook it up and come back in 20 minutes. These chargers usually operate only from a 12 volt power supply.
AUTOMATIC WITH HEAT SENSOR CHARGERS are gener­ally the most expensive type. These chargers, which are available in 12, 120, and 12/120 volt power requirements, work extremely well. Simply plug in and hook up the COOL battery. Return in 20 minutes to a fully charged unit. (Note: the battery must be cool before the charge cycle begins.)
ELECTRA CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS
NOTE: Materials for these options are not included in your kit. They must be purchased separately.
REMOVABLE TIP OPTION If a 6-1/2 foot wing will not
fit in your car, you will want to build the wing with removable wing tips.
TINTING THE CANOPY If you wish to “tint” the canopy, do not try to dye the plastic. Instead, purchase a “transpar­ent“ spray enamel paint and apply carefully to the INSIDE of the canopy surface.
LANDING WHEEL OPTION The plans show how to install an optional single landing wheel on your ELECTRA. Although this really is not necessary, it can help prevent breakage of wooden propellers and damage to the fuselage when landing on gravel or other rough surfaces. Another way to prevent damage to the fusage is to apply CGM ScuffGuard, a transparent scuff resistant strip, to the bottom of your aircraft. Application is very easy and highly recom­mended.
ELEVATOR
RUDDER
MOTOR
5
ABOUT THE WOOD IN THE KIT
We strive to supply good quality materials in your kit. Wood parts are inspected with regard to the function they will serve. If an imperfection is spotted in a scrap corner of a die-cut sheet and doesn't affect actual parts, the sheet is considered acceptable. Also, internal stresses in wood are relieved as it is cut into parts. These relieved stresses may cause some parts to bow. Bows in wood parts (such as leading edges) readily straighten out as they are Super Jeted into a structural unit
WOOD PARTS
Be careful when removing parts (such as fuselage sides) from the die-cut sheets. Long parts are fragile until Super Jeted into a structural unit. If necessary, use a razor knife or razor saw to assist in the removal of parts from the sheet. Sometimes a little trimming and sanding can improve parts, where desired. Save scrap until the model is completed, in case a part is missing or damaged. Also, scrap is used in some building steps.
BASIC STRUCTURE
END VIEW OF STRIP WOOD PARTS
BASSWOOD BALSA
6
MAIN SPAR
REAR SPAR
INBOARD PANEL
OUTBOARD PANEL
CENTER SHEETING
CANOPY
3/16” DOWEL
BATTERY HATCH
NYLON HOLD DOWN
MOTOR MOUNT
FRONT SPAR
1/4 x 13/32”
REAR SPAR
1/8 x 3/8”
FRONT SPAR
1/4 x 3/8”
REAR SPAR
1/8 x 3/8”
1/4” SQUARE
17-7/8”
INBOARD L.E. = 20-3/4” LONG
OUTBOARD L.E. = 17-5/8” LONG
ELEVATOR L.E.
3/16 x 3/8”
ELEVATOR
TRUSS
5/64 x 3/16”
RUDDER T.E.
8-1/4” LONG
ELEVATOR.
20-3/4” LONG
INBOARD T.E. = 20-3/4” LONG
OUTBOARD T.E. = 17-1/2” LONG
HATCH RAIL
1/8” SQ.
STABILIZER
INBOARD WING SPAR
OUTBOARD WING SPAR
WING LEADING EDE (L.E.)
WING TRAILING EDGE (T.E.)
PUSHROD
TRAILING EDGE
RUDDER
FIN
HINGES
ELEVATOR
COWL
L.E. SHEETING
LEADING EDGE
RIB
SHEET 4001 WING RIBS 5/64 x 2-7/8” 2 REQ’D.
SHEET 4002 WING RIBS 5/64 x 2-7/8” 2 REQ’D.
DIE-CUT WOOD SHEETS
SHEET 4006 3/16x 2-7/8 x 9-1/2” 1 REQ’D.
SHEET 4008 1/16x 2-5/8 x 13-1/2” 1 REQ’D.
SHEET 4011 1/16x 2-5/8 x 13-1/2” 1 REQ’D.
SHEET 4010 1/16x 2-7/8 x 18” 1 REQ’D.
BATTERY HATCH FORMER C DOUBLER
HATCH DOUBLER
SHEET 4009 1/8x 2-3/8 x 17” WING CENTER JOINERS 1 REQ’D.
SHEET 4005 1/16x 2-7/8 x 24” 1 REQ’D.
SHEET 4007 1/16x 2-7/8 x 24” 1 REQ’D.
SHEET 4012 1/16x 3 x 24” 2 REQ’D.
SHEET 4013 1/16x 3 x 24” 2 REQ’D.
SHEET 4014 1/8 x 2-1/4 x13” 2 REQ’D.
BEVELING MOTOR TOOL WING GAUGE SWITCH
MOUNT
SHEET 4004 5/64 x 2-7/8 x 18” FUSELAGE SIDE DOUBLER 2 REQ’D.
7
STAB TIPS WING/TAIL GUSSETS STAB CENTER PLATFORM
DORSAL FIN STAB L.E. JOINER
FIN BOTTOM
FUSE REAR TOP
FORMER D
STAB PLATFORM
FUSE REAR BOTTOM
OUTBOARD PANEL L.E. SHEETING
MID CENTER SHEETING
INBOARD PANEL L.E. SHEETING
JOINER CLAMPS
SERVO MOUNTING RAIL
FORMER B
FORMER C
REAR MOTOR FORMER POLYHEDRAL MOUNT A JOINERS
FUSE REAR DOUBLER
FUSE WING PLATFORM
FUSE BOTTOM FRONT
HATCH TONGUE
FORMER A DOUBLER
SHEET 4003B FUSELAGE REAR
SHEET 4003A FUSELAGE FRONT
ARF: Almost Ready to Fly AILERON: the control surface on the wing that rolls the
plane
AIRFOIL: the shape of the wing as seen from the end ANGLE OF ATTACK: the angle at which the wing meets
the air flow
BEVEL: to sand to an angle shape BURR: the rough edges on a piece of wood or metal after
it is cut
CAP STRIP: a thin strip glued to the edges of the ribs to
shape the wing
CONTROL HORN: a device attached to each control sur-
face to provide an attachment point for the pushrod
COWL (COWLING): the nose section of the fuselage
that encloses the engine
DECALAGE: the difference between the incidence of the
wing and stabilizer
DIHEDRAL: the upward angle of the wings, as seen from
the front
ELEVATOR: the moveable part of the horizontal tail,
which controls pitch
EMPENNAGE: the tail of the plan FIN: the fixed vertical part of the tail FIREWALL: the hard wooden former at the front of the
fuselage, to which the engine is mounted
FORMER: a piece which shapes the fuselage; and to
which the sides of the fuselage are attached.
GUSSET: a small triangular piece glued into a corner to
strengthen it
INCIDENCE: the angle of the wing or the tail in relation
to the thrustline
LAMINATE: to glue two thin sheets of material together
to form a thick sheet
LEADING EDGE (L.E.): the edge of the wing that first
meets the airflow
LONGERON: a stringer that runs the length of the fuse-
lage
OUTPUT ARM: the piece that attaches to the servo and
connects it to the pushrod
PITCH: an up and down movement of the nose of the
plane, which is controlled by the elevator
POLYHEDRAL: a wing with more than one upward angle PROTOTYPE: the full scale airplane from which the
model design was taken
PUSHROD: the long, stiff dowel or plastic piece that con-
nects the servo with the control horn
RTF: Ready to Fly RIB: the airfoil-shaped piece that connects the leading
edge, spars and trailing edge of the wing together and holds them in shape
GLOSSARY OF MODELING TERMS
RETRACTS: devices for extending and retracting the
wheels on command
ROLL: tilting of the plane as viewed from the front, con-
trolled by the ailerons
RUDDER: the moveable vertical tail of the plane, which
controls yaw
RX: radio receiver, the portion of the radio located
inside the fuselage
SERVO: the part of the airborne radio system that
moves the control surfaces
SHEAR WEB: wood sheeting that connects the top and
bottom spars to stiffen the wing
SHIM: a thin piece of wood inserted between two other
pieces to improve their fit
SPAR: a wooden stick running lengthwise through the
wing that serves as its backbone
SPINNER: the rounded cone that fits over the propeller
hub
STABILIZER (STAB): the fixed horizontal part of the tail STALL: a situation in which the plane is flying too slow-
ly to move sufficient air across the wing to produce lift
STRINGER: a long piece of wood attached to the form-
ers to shape the fuselage
THRUSTLINE: a line drawn from the center of the pro-
peller hub straight through the airplane
TORQUE: a rolling tendency caused by the spinning
propeller
TRAILING EDGE (T.E.): the edge of the wing that faces
the rear of the plane
TRAVEL: the movement of the control surfaces (rudder,
elevator, aileron) from side to side or up and down
TRIM: small adjustments made to the control surfaces
to cause the plane to fly straight and level by itself
TX: radio transmitter, the part of the radio system that is
held by the pilot and which sends signals to the model
WASHIN: a twist in the wing tip that makes the trailing
edge lower than normal
WASHOUT: a twist in the wingtip that makes the trail-
ing edge higher than normal
WING SADDLE: the shaped part of the fuselage in
which the wing rests
WHEEL COLLAR: a metal ring that holds the wheel on
the axle
YAW: a right-to-left movement of the nose, controlled by
the rudder
8
TAIL CONSTRUCTION
1. Collect the following items.
(4) 3/16 x 3/8 x21” BALSA PT. #4853 (1) 1-3/4 SQ. x 21” BALSA PT. #4696 (3) 5/64 X 3/16 X 24” BALSA PT. #4698 (1) 1/2” SQ. x 8-1/4” BALSA PT. #4701 (1) D/C SHEET 4006 BALSA PT. #3606
containing: Stab center platform Stab leading edge joiner Wing and tail gussets Stab tips
Dorsal fin (1) CENTERLINE MARKER PT. #1425 (7) SMALL FLEX-POINT HINGE PT. #1448
2.  Lay the horizontal stabilizer portion of the plan over the building board and cover with waxed paper.
Buidling over the plan, carefully cut two 3/16 X
3/8” balsa sticks to form the stabilizer leading edge. Make sure to exactly match the plan from the center mark to the tips.
IMPORTANT! SAVE SCRAP MATERIAL FOR USE IN CONSTRUCTING THE FUSELAGE.
Pin the pieces in position and glue at the cen-
ter joint.
3.  Continue building the stab outline, pinning and gluing the stab tips, the L.E. joiner, the center platform, and additional 3/16 x 3/8” balsa sticks in place as shown above.
4.  Still working over the plan, and using the tech- nique shown above, cut 5/64 x 3/16” balsa sticks to form stab trussing. Trim carefully to size, so that each truss fits in place without forcing. SAVE THE SCRAP MATERIAL!
When satisfied with the fit, glue in place.
5.  Glue the gussets in place and allow the entire stab to dry thoroughly.
6.  Referring to the plan, mark the hinge locations on the top of the trailing edge with a soft pen­cil.
Using 3 or 4 drops of Super Jet™, tack-cement
the elevator to the stab.
Carefully transfer the hinge location marks
onto the elevator.
7.  Again working over the plan, assemble the fin and rudder in the same manner as the stabiliz­er.
NOTE: Since the rudder trailing edge. is tapered, it
should be shimmed with 1/16” balsa scrap before gluing, so that it will be level.
STAB TIPS WING & TAIL GUSSETS
STAB CENTER PLATFORM
DORSAL FIN
STAB L.E. JOINER FIN BOTTOM
GUSSET
9
9. Tack cement the rudder to the fin and then
transfer the hinge locations onto the rudder. Do not sand.
10.  Referring to the plan, flat sand the fin/rudder assembly and the stab/elevator assembly, rounding all outer edges except the bottom and lower 2” of the fin leading edge. Take care not to sand away the hinge locations.
Sand the elevator tips to blend with the stab.
Holding the CGM centerline marker at an angle,
so that the pegs touch the wood, lightly pass the marker back and forth so that the point scribes a line, marking the hinge locations on the fin and the stab.
Again using the centerline marker, mark a cen-
terline along the entire leading edge of both the elevator and the rudder.
12.  Using an awl or similar tool, make a pilot hole at the hinge locations on the fin and the stab.
Move the stab T.E. close to the edge of the table
and, using 1/16” scrap ply as a shim, make sure the T.E. is level and steady.
Carefully drill 1/16” holes for the hinges, as
shown above.
8.  Referring to the plan, mark the hinge locations on the fin T.E.
After gluing the fin and rudder pieces, allow to
dry before continuing.
11.  Carefully separate the stab from the elevator and the fin from the rudder. Gently sand to remove any rough spots from tack-cementing.
10
TILT CENTERLINE MARKER SO PEGS TOUCH
SCRAP PLY END VIEW
THROUGH STAB
KEEP FLAT ON SHIM
13.  Next, cut 45º slots on each side of each hole to accommodate the hinge webs.
NOTE: The CGM hinge slotting kit (Item # 600) is handy
for this process.
14.  Move the elevator close to the edge of the table and support the thin edge with wing rib scrap, as shown.
Carefully cut hinge slots, as, at the proper loca-
tions.
15.  Repeat the slotting method for the fin and rud- der.
16.  Referring to the above diagrams, assemble the beveling tool. First glue the narrow strip to the handle, taking care to keep it square. Then glue the wide strip to the handle and the narrow strip.
When the glue has dried, cut a strip of 100-200
grit sandpaper to size and tack-cement the sandpaper to the tool, as shown.
17.  Tape the T.E. of the elevator to the work surface. Using the beveling tool, sand the L.E. to the centerline. Then turn the parts over and bevel the other side.
Repeat this process for the rudder. When fin-
ished the pieces should look like the drawing below.
THIS COMPLETES THE TAIL CONSTRUCTION. PUT THE PIECES ASIDE UNTIL THEY ARE NEED­ED LATER.
BEVELING­COMPLETED
11
SCRAP PLY WING SHIM
END VIEW THOUGH ELEVATOR
WING CONSTRUCTION
IMPORTANT: YOU WILL BE BUILDING A RIGHT AND THEN A LEFT WING. FOLLOW THE STEPS CAREFULLY TO AVOID CONFUSION.
1. Collect the following items:
(2) D/C SHT. 4001 5/64” Balsa PT. #3601
Contains: WING RIBS
(2) D/C SHT. 4002 5/64” Balsa PT. #3602
Contains: WING RIBS (1) D/C SHT. 4006 WING GUSSETS PT. #3606 (1) D/C SHT. 4008 1/16” Ply PT. #3608
Contains: POLYHEDRALJOINERS (1) D/C SHT. 4009 1/8” Ply PT. #3609
Contains: WING CENTER JOINERS (1) D/C SHT. 4010 Balsa PT. #3610 (2) D/C SHT. 4012 1/16” Balsa PT. #3612
Contains: WING SHEETING (2) D/C SHT. 4013 1/16” Balsa PT. #3613
Contains: WING SHEETING (2) D/C SHT. 4014 Ply PT. #3614
Gauges & clamps (4) BALSA SHEET 1/16x3x12” PT. #4600 (2) INBOARD T.E.LONG PT. #4688 (2) OUTBOARD T.E.SHORT PT. #4689 (2) INBOARD L.E. LONG PT. #4690 (2) OUTBOARD L.E. SHORT PT. #4691 (2) INBOARD MAIN SPAR Bass PT. #4692 (2) OUTBOARD MAIN SPAR PT. #4694 (2) INBOARD REAR SPAR Bass PT. #4855 (2) OUTBOARD REAR SPAR balsa PT. #4874 (1) 3/4 X 38” NYLON FABRIC PT. #9524 (1) 1 x 6” ALUMINUM STRIP PT. #1390
2.  Working over the RIGHT INBOARD PANEL of the plan, place a 1/4” x 13/32” basswood spar main spar so that the spar end is aligned with the wing center on the plan.
NOTE: If building the second half of the wing, you
will be working over the LEFT INBOARD PANEL. DO NOT BUILD TWO RIGHT WINGS!
Hold the spar in place by cross-pinning
between the ribs shown on the plan.
Position the rear spar on the plan.
12
D/C SHT. 4001
D/C SHT. 4002
D/C SHT. 4010
D/C SHT. 4006
D/C SHT. 4014
D/C SHT. 4012
D/C SHT. 4008
D/C SHT. 4013
D/C SHT. 4009
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