Assembly Manual
1/10th Formula 1 Car
Center Pivot
Bag 1
3374 - Center Pivot Socket
40194 - Hard Anodized
Alum Pivot ball
3254 - 2-56 Button Head
*Note - Sometimes it is helpful to over-tighten the top clamp screws,
then work the ball around by hand, and then loosen the screws so the ball
floats around very free. Do not over-tighten the screws too much or you
could warp the pivot socket.
Center Pivot
Bag 1
slightly
1555 - WTF-1
Chassis Plate
3374
1430 4-40 x ½”
Flat Head
12772 -
4-40 Thin
Hex Nut
1209 - Washer
1412 - Red Locknut
1555
1
Bag 2
3281
1566
1426 - 4-40 x
5/16” Flat Head
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
1566 - Rear Bottom Plate
1412 - Red Locknut
1430 - 4-40 x ½”
Flat Head
One-Piece
3254 - 2-56 Button Head
*NOTE - Before installing, inspect the side links
and you will notice that the screw holes on one
side of the link are larger than the holes on the
other side. Before popping the links on the balls,
be sure that the larger hole faces toward the
outside of the chassis.
Slide the 2-56 button head screws through the
large holes in the outside of the side links, and
then thread them into the small inner holes as
shown in the illustration. Do not tighten these
screws down all the way. Put just enough
tension on them so that there is no play in the
links, but so they pivot freely on the balls. The
car will NOT handle properly if the links are too
tight on the balls!
3281 -
Side Links
Setting the One-piece links
1 - Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the center pivot are slightly loose.
There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the center pivot
“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the links
to "free up". This ensures that the rear pod plate pivots freely on the links
and center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the WTF-1.
2 - Snap the 2 links on the balls (done in previous step). They should rock freely on
the pivot balls.
3 - Place the chassis / rear bottom plate assembly on a flat surface. No tires and
no diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Be
sure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in a
straight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on the
car. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing any
tension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.
4 - Hold the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressing
the chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts that
secure the center pivot assembly. For now, just lightly
snug one side then the other.
5 - Pick up the car and check the pivoting action of
rear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-toside. It should move free without binding or "clicking".
If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.
(not the rear pod)
Center Pivot
H
Rotate
If it rotates smoothly, tighten the locknuts on the center pivot more
securely. Do this by again holding the chassis down to the table at the
hold point “H”. Slowly and carefully, fully tighten the locknuts that hold the center pivot
assembly to the chassis. The handling of the WTF-1 hinges (pun intended!) on the
free movement of this rear plate. Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding.
2
Slider Pod
Bag 3
3440 - Motor Plate
33411 - Slider Bearing Carrier
3442 - Left Side Pod Plate
1574 - Graphite X-brace
33411
1574
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
3442
Flat Head
1426 - 4-40 x
5/16” Flat Head
1424
1435 - 4-40 x 7/16”
Button Head
3375 - Molded ½”
Standoffs (4)
Tweak Plate
Bag 4
3375
3288 - 4-40 x 3/8”
set screw
1570 - Tweak Plate
3387
Thread the set screw
in until flush with the
bottom of the holder.
Make sure spring coil
is seated into groove
on spring holder.
1426
3387 - Molded Plastic
Spring Holder
1791 - Pro Tapered
Springs .45mm
3440
1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
The rear wing (not included) will mount to the
3375 plastic standoffs on the rear pod.
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
3375 - Molded ½”
Standoffs (4)
1570
3375
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
1436
1434
1791
3
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