A PERFECT FINISH? ..........................................................................................................................................2
COLOR BLEED....................................................................................................................................................2
THE SUN AND HIGH SKIN TEMPERATURES...................................................................................................2
FINISHING YOUR ALL WHITE BANDIT ARF ..................................................................................................... 2
GUARD AGAINST SCRATCHES AND DENTS ..................................................................................................3
WAX THE COLOR PAINTED MODEL BEFORE ASSEMBLY ............................................................................3
CONTROL SURFACE FLEX HINGE TUNE-UP..................................................................................................3
PERMA-GRIT AND SOME OTHER USEFUL TOOLS ........................................................................................4
TOOL LIST ........................................................................................................................................................... 4
ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS MANUAL .......................................................................................................4
ABOUT THE PACKAGING ..................................................................................................................................5
TRIAL FITTING PARTS .......................................................................................................................................5
INTERNAL SEALING OF A JET ..........................................................................................................................5
GLUE, ZAP AND BVM AEROPOXY....................................................................................................................6
FILLER MATERIAL ..............................................................................................................................................7
RADIO EQUIPMENT WARNING ......................................................................................................................... 7
TIRES AND CONTROL LINKAGES ............................................................................................8
ASSEMBLING THE WHEELS, STRUTS, AND AXLES.......................................................................................8
TRIMMING THE AXLE.........................................................................................................................................8
LUBING THE BRAKES AND AXLES.................................................................................................................10
CONTROL LINKAGES.......................................................................................................................................10
NOSE GEAR STEERING SERVO TRAY, PUMP MOUNT, F2, AND F3 ..........................................................36
NOSE GEAR DOOR ..........................................................................................................................................37
NOSE GEAR DOOR AIR CYLINDER................................................................................................................39
MOUNTING THE NOSE GEAR ......................................................................................................................... 40
MOUNTING THE UAT .......................................................................................................................................42
TAIL PIPE FORMER ..........................................................................................................................................42
AIR SYSTEM..............................................................................................................................43
AIR DIAGRAM....................................................................................................................................................44
THE RECEIVER................................................................................................................................................. 52
ROUTING THE ANTENNA ................................................................................................................................52
RANGE CHECK.................................................................................................................................................53
CENTER OF GRAVITY......................................................................................................................................53
RECOMMENDED THRUST AND SPEED LIMIT ..............................................................................................53
SET YOUR TIMER.............................................................................................................................................53
GO AROUND .....................................................................................................................................................55
LOSS OF CONTROL .........................................................................................................................................55
LANDING GEAR WILL NOT EXTEND ..............................................................................................................55
This instruction package is extensive, not because the model is difficult to build but because it
represents a thorough effort to make the Bandit ARF assemble easily and allow the factory prototypes to
be duplicated.
WARNING
This model is designed to safely operate with model turbine engines in the 13-20lb thrust range. The
prototypes are powered with a JetCat P-60 and P-70 engines. Limit the thrust of any engine installed in
this model to 20lbs of thrust.
1) A larger, more powerful engine could cause excessive speed and possible control
problems or structural fatigue.
2) Any change on the exterior of the engine will cause cooling flow problems inside the ByPass duct.
3) Installations that are not professionally engineered and tested can cause overheat
problems inside the model.
The privilege of operating a turbine powered model aircraft carries with it an increased responsibility.
Adherence to the manufacturer’s specifications and the AMA regulations are included in this
responsibility.
The BVM Bandit ARF is offered in this completely engineered, manufactured and flight-tested
format. Please give serious thought before trying to modify or “improve” any facet of this power
and airframe package.
DISCLAIMER
Bob Violett Models Inc. assumes no liability for the operation and use of these products. The owner
and operator of these products should have the necessary experience and exercise common sense.
Said owner and operator must have a valid Academy of Model Aeronautics license and a turbine waiver
for the purpose of insurance.
The color finish on the BVM Bandit ARF model is applied utilizing both paint in and out of the mold
processes.
Sometimes, because of human error, the paint is patched and polished. The resulting appearance is
better than 95% of what is accomplished by modelers in their shops and better than competitive ARFs on
the market.
Should the finish be damaged, BVM stocks the color paint and hardener required for the repair. This
is PPG paint, which is compatible with many urethane thinners.
If not experienced in the use of these paints, it will be best to seek the assistance of one who is.
COLOR BLEED
The model has been buffed at the factory. If any color bleed is noticed, such as red into white it can
be removed easily. Use a small amount of auto polish on a clean white cloth and hand wipe the white
area. The best polishing compound BVM has found is 3M Perfect-it 3000
THE SUN AND HIGH SKIN TEMPERATURES
The areas of dark blue or black trim will reach temperature as high as 180°F if the ambient
temperature is 90°F. Usually, the dark color paint will show some reaction to these extreme temps.
Shrinkage of the paint and epoxy glass is a reality with composite sandwich structure. That is why some
home built (full size) aircraft of composite structure are limited to only white, yellow, or aluminum paint.
FINISHING YOUR ALL WHITE BANDIT ARF
If black, dark blue or similar dark colors are applied and if the model will be exposed to direct sun at
ambient temps above 80°F, follow this 2-step procedure.
1. Apply the dark color and allow to cure for 7 days. Then, expose the area to 160+ degrees F for
one hour. This can be done with heat lamps or the sun. Use a laser thermometer to check the
skin temperature.
2. Repair any problem areas and then repaint and polish, Of course, to be safe, avoid using these
dark colors especially over large areas of the tops of the wings and tails.
BVM’s tests have shown that a black surface exposed to direct sunlight at midday in the southern
regions of the USA would reach temps about twice that of the ambient temperature.
These are very flight worthy structures. They are light and extremely strong in tensile strength,
however, they will dent if mishandled. Always
support these structures on clean soft foam rubber.
We have found that auto body fender stands (available at auto paint and parts suppliers) are very
helpful in supporting and assembling models such as the Bandit ARF.
WAX THE COLOR PAINTED MODEL BEFORE ASSEMBLY
It is a good practice to apply (2) coats of automotive wax (such as Meguiars) to all of the painted
surfaces before
epoxy glue that sometimes occurs. CA glues will eat through any waxed surface, so be extra careful
when handling these adhesives.
Following each glue application, always check the handled areas for glue residue. Remove any
traces with Isopropyl alcohol and wax again.
beginning to work on the model. This will help protect the finish from a fingerprint of
CONTROL SURFACE FLEX HINGE TUNE-UP
Many ARF models utilize this system of hinging control
surfaces because it is a very strong hinge system and is
accomplished at the factory.
Occasionally, because of climatic changes, the bottom
surfaces may “catch” or interfere with control travel surface
actuation.
Should this happen, use a Perma-Grit FXT-103 fine
abrasive strip to further bevel the LE of the control surface.
Here the grit side is down. The TE of the main surface
could also be adjusted by using the FXT-103, grit side up.
NOTE: When the model is not in use, allow the control
surfaces (Ailerons and Elevator) to droop down. This helps to prevent the thin TE from curling inward.
CAUTIONS: DO NOT apply any primer or paint to the underside of the main surface trailing edge.
Very Important:
down.
Prior to each flight, check that the ailerons and elevators actuate properly, up and
Perma-Grit tools are sold in the USA by BVM. These are very high quality, tungsten carbide grit abrasive
tools that will make modeling easier.
TOOL LIST
2-56 tap
4-40 tap 2-flute
.050 Hex Driver BVM#2157
Perma-Grit small files BVM#NF-1
Large files are also handy (#LNF-1)
(2) X-Acto Razor Saw #235
Carbide Cutters (5/pk) BVM #2142
Set of ball end hex wrenches
Dremel drum sander
Dremel #409 cut-off discs and mandrel
A good set of small Phillips and slot end
screwdrivers
12" steel ruler with 1/10th inch scale
#43 (.089”) 4-40 tap drill
1/16” drill
Pin vise to hold 1/16” drill bit
Perma-Grit cut off Disc RD-2
Perma-Grit FXT-103
ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS MANUAL
CA Cyanoacrylate Adhesive LE Leading Edge
SHCS Socket Head Cap Screw TE Trailing Edge
SMS Sheet Metal Screw F/G Fiberglass
SHSS Socket Head Set Screw CG Center of Gravity
CF Carbon Fiber C/L Centerline
SHSMS Socket Head Sheet Metal Screw LC Laser Cut
BHSMS Button-Head Sheet Metal Screw BHMS Button-Head Machine Screw
WARNINGS
Use a particle mask such as 3M #6985 (available at auto paint stores) to protect from inhaling the
glass or carbon fiber dust. Use this mask whenever sanding or cutting fiberglass or carbon fiber
materials.
Use a professional charcoal filter paint mask (available at auto paint supply stores) when spraying
any primer or paint. Spray out of doors or in a properly vented spray booth.
Use safety glasses any time rotary tools, such as Dremel #409 disc or Perma-Grit cutters, are being
used.
Extra glue, extra paint, extra resin will add up to a heavy model. Since 75% of the area of the model
is behind the CG, a heavy model will only get heavier with the addition of nose weight.
ABOUT THE PACKAGING
The individual parts of the model have been packaged according to assembly groups. Labels on the
plastic bags identify each group of parts.
FIBERGLASS PREPARATION
The rough side (glass cloth side) of these parts should be sanded with fresh #80 grit paper for best
glue adhesion and surface preparation for the internal finishing.
Sand the sharp edges of the fuselage flanges on the hatch, cockpit, etc., then apply masking tape to
these edges to protect hands and arms before sanding the entire inside of the fuselage. It is best to use
rubber gloves and wear a long sleeve shirt to protect skin from abrasion. Sand these surfaces to remove
the shine and loose fibers. Use goggles and a fine particle mask. Final trim of fuselage flanges will be
dictated by equipment installation.
Support the fuselage on foam pads fore and aft of the area where a former is being fitted and glued
in place. This will allow the F/G fuselage to retain its molded shape.
BVM’s Scuff Boards are a handy addition to any project. They are especially convenient during the
building of the Bandit ARF.
TRIAL FITTING PARTS
BVM makes every attempt to insure that the parts in our kits have the best possible fit. However, due
to manufacturing tolerance accumulation, some parts may fit a little tight. Always trial fit parts with mating
parts and if necessary adjust the part perimeter with Perma-Grit hand tools.
INTERNAL SEALING OF A JET
It is a safety consideration and investment protection to properly seal the inside of a jet model against
inevitable oil soaking of the wood parts and glue joints. Certain areas must be treated during construction
before they are rendered inaccessible.
The bare wood surfaces can first be sealed with CA glue or epoxy resin then use a completely fuel
proof paint, such as PPG K-36 Prima and hardener (available at auto paint supply stores), and brush two
coats on wood and one coat on the fiberglass and glue joints.
Drill a few drain holes in the bottom of the model to allow any accumulated oil to drain out between
flying sessions.
Using high quality adhesives such as the ZAP products from Pacer Technology will help protect the
investment made in this model. Through experience BVM has found these adhesives to be the best
available to modelers, therefore they are referred to in this manual. Low quality glues deteriorate with
time and could render the model unsafe.
For extremely high stress areas, such as the wing and tail mounting former to fuselage joints, BVM
has made available a thixotropic, slow cure, aerospace grade, 2-part epoxy system that has been
dubbed “AeroPoxy.” It is the strongest and best gripping adhesive we have found. Always squeeze a
small amount from the nozzle into waste bin when first starting to apply the glue or if the nozzle has not
been used for more than a few minutes.
GLUING TECHNIQUES
Except for bare balsa and plywood, scuff all mating surfaces to be joined with #80 grit paper. This
gives “tooth” for the glue to form a mechanical bond. If paint is on the surface, sand through it. If fuel or
grease are on the surface, first clean with acetone or thinner, then scuff. Clean off all excess glue - no
globs or puddles - excess glue is excess weight.
For laser-cut plywood parts, use #80 grit paper to scuff the burned edges of these parts
before applying glue.
AeroPoxy is best applied using an auto mix nozzle. Most applications can be accomplished with the
3-inch nozzle. Small, no nozzle hand mixes can be used where appropriate.
Once applied to a bulkhead-to-fuselage joint, use a finger or cotton Q-tip to make a neat smooth fillet,
while removing any excess glue. Puddles of glue add weight and do not contribute to strength.
Always check the outside skin of the model to look for any glue residue and remove it with Acetone
before it cures. AeroPoxy is tough to remove once it has thoroughly cured.
GLUE CHART
Surfaces to be joined Glue preferences
epoxy glass to epoxy glass ...............ZAP CA, epoxy, AeroPoxy
balsa to balsa....................................ZAP CA
plywood to balsa ...............................ZAP-A-GAP
poly ply strips to fiberglass................ZAP-A-GAP
carbon fiber to wood .........................ZAP-A-GAP
carbon fiber to fiberglass................... ZAP-A-GAP, AeroPoxy
composite formers to fiberglass ........AeroPoxy
plywood formers to fiberglass ...........AeroPoxy
hardwood to plywood ........................AeroPoxy
CAUTION: USE ADEQUATE VENTILATION FOR ALL GLUING PROCEDURES. IF YOU ARE
SENSITIVE TO CA GLUES, USE THE ODORLESS VARIETY.
Canopy hooks, hatch latches, etc. should be scuffed first, then glued to the F/G with a thin bead of
ZAP-A-GAP, then mechanically trapped with AeroPoxy lapped over flanges and onto F/G.
fiberglass...........................................microballoon/resin mix or polyester glazing putty such as Evercoat
#400
RADIO EQUIPMENT WARNING
STOP!!! Failure to use the recommended servos, output arms, extensions, and hardware may
result in a loss of control!
A list of the recommended servos and corresponding output arms can be found at the end of this
manual. Use a JR “Matchmaker” or radio system to set neutral of each servo and install the proper
control horns, in the proper orientation as outlined in each servo’s respective flight control installation
section. Always center and install the correct output arms while on the bench, once the servo is in the
aircraft access to the servo arm screw is sometimes limited. The JR Matchmaker makes this task very
easy without using the complete radio system on the workbench.
Warning!! Damage to the transmitter module may result if the radio system is used on the bench
for an extended amount of time with the antenna down. BVM uses a “Shop module” which is
used for aircraft setup; this module never leaves the shop.
These screws are necessary for good ground handling and proper
braking.
Use the supplied drill bit in a drill press or Dremel tool to drill the
through holes for the tire mounting screws. Start from the smaller,
threaded side and drill through to the larger hole on the opposite side
of the rim.
Helpful Hint: If the bit misses the larger hole while drilling from the threaded hole or if the screw
will not press completely through during final assembly, drill again partially from the opposing
larger hole. The two drill paths will intersect to guide the screw through.
From the larger hole, press the screws into the tire using the end of a
Whia screwdriver. The cupped end will not allow the screw to slip. We
like to press them in a criss-cross manner, start at 12 o’clock, then 6
o’clock, 1 o’clock to 7 o’clock, etc; this helps to keep the drilled holes
from shifting.
Before tightening the tire screws, apply a drop of blue Thread
Locker to the threaded holes. This prevents the screws from
backing out under the vibrations of braking. Carefully tighten the
screws, avoid stripping the threads.
Apply a large drop of Super O Lube BVM #5779 to the brake
drum surface of the wheel. Wipe this in until an even coat is
distributed; apply an equal amount to both main wheels. At this
time apply axle grease BVM #5784 to the wheel bushings and
reinstall the wheels onto the struts as described earlier. Now the
main wheels and brakes are complete.
CONTROL LINKAGES
All control linkages are assembled using threaded rods, nuts, clevises, and safety clips. The picture
below shows the completed linkages with the appropriate pin-to-pin dimensions.
Assemble each linkage by threading one nut onto
each threaded rod. Next apply one drop of thread
locker to the threads of the clevis, install the 4-40
clevis, and tighten the jam nut against the clevis.
Repeat this for all (6) threaded rod linkages and
set aside to dry.
Trim the bare ends of the threaded rods to the
proper length to allow full engagement of the
clevis, while maintaining the respective pin-to-pin
length.
Helpful Hint: Before working on the painted
composite parts, obtain a roll off bedding (Egg
Crate) foam. Cut the foam to cover the work
area; even allow it to roll over the edges of the
table. BVM uses the type with many raised and
lowered points; these points help to protect the
model from wayward nuts and bolts. This
simple precautionary step will minimize hangar
rash.
WING MOUNTING
Set wings onto the fuselage and insert the (6) 10-32 x 5/8” SHCS though the forward CF spars and
thread them into the aluminum inserts in the forward bulkhead.
NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the 4-40 x ¾” SHCS in the “C” channels mounted to the AFT
bulkhead.
Center the wing (top to bottom) at the flap LE relative to the wing fillets on the fuselage. Then tighten
the 4-40 SHCS.
Once satisfied with the fit of the wings, apply AeroPoxy or V-Poxy to the molded “c” channels to lock
them to the AFT CF former.
To make the project move along very efficiently we choose to work on the left and right wings
simultaneously. This means, complete 2 or 3 steps on the left wing, then do the same to the right wing.
This method helps keep the mind fresh on the procedures and techniques learned the first time, plus the
appropriate tools will already be selected and ready to use.
Use a 4-40 tap to prepare the (4) flex plate mounting holes. Apply a drop of Thin ZAP to each
For additional strength, apply additional AeroPoxy or VPoxy to all of the wood ribs junctions with the skin and other
structural joints connected to the landing gear. To help
protect the top skin, AeroPoxy or V-Poxy 2.75” x 2.75”
squares of .020” polyply to the inside of the wing skin above
the retract mechanism.
FLEXPLATES
Separate the CF flexplates, doublers and washers using a saw
and finish with a sanding block.
Scuff the CF flex plates at the doubler and CF washer
locations and one side of the CF washers. Glue the
doubler to the flex plate.
Assemble the flex plates to the CF doublers. Use a sharp
4-40 tap for the (4) 4-40 x ½” SHCS.
Install the flex plates into the wing using four 4-40 x ½” SHCS. It
is necessary to remove a little of the F/G flange for clearance of
the driver.
Due to the nature of “building in the mold” and the possibility of minor differences in production wing
panels, the flex plates have been designed to allow the position of the main retracts to be adjusted. As
one can see the outer holes on the flex plates are oversized, but the CF washers are drilled for the 4-40
bolts, this allows the retract unit to be positioned correctly without shimming, re-drilling, or sanding.
The final position is set by the CNC Machined
cover plate.
Once satisfied with the alignment of the main
gear and the wheel retracting into the wheel well,
simply tighten the (4) screws and add a drop of
ZAP to the CF washer and the flex plate.
Adjust the main wheel toe-in to be between ½°-
1° for good ground handling.
INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR
Temporarily fit and remove the landing gear assembly into
the wing. It will be necessary to open the flanges around
the retract unit and the wheel well a small amount to allow
easy installation and removal. Use a Dremel sanding drum
for this task.
Cut and install (2) sets of 20” red, gray, and clear
airlines onto the retract assembly. The red line is for
“Retracts up”, gray is for “Gear down”, and the clear is
for the brake line in the wing. (Blue brake line will be
used in the fuselage.) The photo shows a left retract
unit, the gray line is always kept on the front of the
retract unit. The clear brake line is also adjacent the
front side of the strut and over the round brass frame
Helpful hint: To aid in the installation of the airline over the brass nipple; two methods work well:
1. Gently chew on the end of the tubing, the saliva also acts to lubricate the tube as it slides
over the nipple.
2. Carefully warm the end of the tube with a lighter, then spray a small amount of CA kicker in
the tube and press it on the nipple.
Route the clear and red lines through the front landing gear
plate as shown. Keep the gray line on the front side of the
retract unit.
Route the (3) airlines through the slot in the rib R2.
Pull the (3) airlines through the circle hole just behind
the main spar. Trim the airlines as shown and install
the twist lock connectors. Put the male end on the red
line and the female end on the gray line. This will help
to avoid confusion while assembling the model at the
field. Use the smaller twist connector for the brake line.
INSTALLING THE WING CONTROLS
Aileron Servos
Use a Dremel drum sander to remove enough material as
outlined. The aileron and flap servo leads exit the wing root
here.
Helpful hint: A piece of yellow Nyrod makes a very good tool for
pulling servo leads through composite structures. Simply bend
the last (1) inch very slightly to allow a spinning action to help
guide through formers and ribs. Use masking tape to temporarily
attach the Nyrod to the servo connector, pull gently through the
structure to avoid damage to the servo lead.
Use a JR Matchmaker or a radio system to center the aileron servos and install trimmed double-arm,
three holed servo arms. The linkage system is designed such that the servo arms are offset one
tooth, or 10-12 degrees forward while the servo is centered.
Use a 12” long 1/16” drill to allow the front servo screws to
enter at a slight angle. See the Helpful Hint below if a long
reach drill is not available.
After routing the aileron servo lead to the flap servo pocket,
install the four #2 servo screws. Use a high quality ball driver
to avoid stripping the head of the screws. A small notch can
be made in the servo cover flange to allow more motion if an
“L” wrench is used.
Helpful Hint: If a long reach 1/16” drill is not available, one can be made using the piece of 1/16”
music wire (included in the nose gear door package) with a flat point ground on the tip. Use a belt
sander to grind an angled flat point; the sharp edges will act as the drill cutters.
This is the completed aileron servo and control horn
installation. Note that the servo arm is rotated forward one
tooth, approximately 10 degrees.
NOTE: The following section covers the installation of the
CF control horn.
Helpful Hint: If two channels for aileron operation are
used, sub trim can be used to fine-tune the aileron servos
independently. The amount of differential can be adjusted
by simply adjusting ATV.
AILERON CONTROL HORNS
The control horns are router cut carbon fiber. They are
easily distinguished by the number of holes in the base
and outline shape. Use a cut-off disk to separate the
parts.
Always scuff the gluing surfaces, and clean the clevis hole with a sharp
1/16” drill prior to installation.
Use a 1/16” carbide cutter BVM #2142 to make a slot in
the control surface as indicated by the pen mark. Set the
carbide cutter to the appropriate depth by comparing it to
the length of the control horn’s base. The photo shows the
Use a piece of 1/16” music wire to locate the CF control horn.
The music wire slips though the laser cut hole.
Use AeroPoxy to hold the control horn in place. A strip of
masking tape can be used to hold the ply locator while glue
cures.
Assembly & Operation Manual
SERVO COVERS AND GEAR/STRUT COVERS
Position covers in place, masking tape can be
helpful to hold the correct position. Use a 1/16” drill
to make the pilot holes for the 3/8” button head
screws.
Use safety wire to attach the CF strut door attach block to
the strut.
Wing FWD Pin
This carbon fiber leading edge pin should be installed on Bandit ARF’s that are intended for high
performance i.e. 19 + pound thrust engines. This pin and receptacle should be checked for security
following a hard landing.
Use a ball end Perma-Grit cutter (BVM #RF-8C) to flatten the
bead of glue from this area. A 90° Dremel tool is required.
Make a notch to accept the pin and shape the pin base as
necessary to allow the pin to protrude at 90° to the wing flange,
check front and top views. Center of pin is located 1” aft of the
leading edge. The location is not critical. The hole in the fuse will
be according to the pin location. Trim away any protrusion of
flanges on wing root that interferes with fit to fuse side.
Trial fit the steel tube inserts into the carbon spar tubes. The steel tubes are held in place with epoxy.
Rotate the steel tube while inserting to distribute the glue until the inboard ends are flush.
NOTE: There have been a few occurrences of the gauling of the Carbon Fiber tube in the aluminum stab
mount. The problem occurs if the setscrew (in the aluminum stab mount bracket) is not backed out
sufficiently, or there is a raised burr around the setscrew-threaded hole.
How to prevent this
NOTE: The steel rod insert in the CF tube should be glued in place prior to this procedure. Note that one
end of the steel rod is flush with the inboard end of the CF tube.
Back the set screw out a few turns and visually check that it is not
protruding into the stab tube-receiving hole.
Make a hone from a ¼” dowel and band saw a 2” slot in one end, then wrap
it with #600 or #800 grit.
Burnish the hole in the aluminum
brackets, especially in the area of the
setscrew. Blow out any aluminum dust.
Use the same grit sandpaper to deburr
the end of the Carbon tube.
Apply Vaseline to the hole
and the Carbon tube with a
cotton Q-tip.
Carefully insert stab mount tube into the aluminum bracket
allowing for the designed-in stab anhedral.
During final assembly, snug the setscrews to retain the stabs.
Note: As of September 2009 the tubes in the Bandit ARF were changed from carbon fiber tubes with a
steel insert, to steel tubes with a carbon fiber insert.
For the latter, test fit the carbon fiber rod into the steel tube,
then apply Slow Zap or epoxy and fully insert the rod until
inboard ends are flush
Use a round Perma-Grit file to fine-tune the front hole to
fit the anti-rotation pin.
Bevel one end and round the other of the CF anti-rotation pin.
Trial fit the front pin in place using the ¼” ply alignment
fixture.
Tape the CF pin to the ¼” ply fixture after setting the depth that
Hint: Scrap plywood can be glued in place of the masking tape to the fixture to align rods.
Apply AeroPoxy into the front hole allowing glue to flow on
to the leading edge of the stab. Also, fill the hole and area
between the root rib and fiberglass skin for increased
bonding strength. Wipe excess glue.
Insert the taped CF pin into the front hole. Tape the rear spar
to hold in position, and allow AeroPoxy to cure.
Use AeroPoxy to glue the molded CF anti rotation pin
receptacle to the inside of the fuselage. Align the
stabilizers such that the leading edges are in line with
the dots on the fuselage. A 6-32 bolt is used to secure
the front pin.
NOTE: This procedure is repeated for both stabs and the vertical fin.
Setscrews tightened through holes in bottom of the fuselage.
Use a Perma-Grit file to trim the gussets off of the elevator servos
as shown.
Use the long arm of the standard 4-way servo arm. This length is very
important; the elevator linkage system has been designed to provide
sufficient elevator surface travel and the required amount of power for
200 MPH flight. Using alternative servos or arms may unnecessarily
risk the plane.
Use the JR Matchmaker to orient the servo arms to be
slightly forward from perpendicular. Install the grommets and
eyelets from the top of the servo as shown.
NOTE: To make installing the clevis easy, install only the clevis
to the outer hole of the standard 4-way arm before adding the
threaded push rod.
Cut the slot for the servo arm as marked on the bottom
skin. Adjust for proper clearance once the servo is
installed and linkage connected.
Drill the (4) servo mounting holes with a 1/16” bit.
Use the JR Matchmaker to orient the servo arm to be
slightly forward from perpendicular. Install the grommets
and eyelets from the bottom of the servo as shown.
Use a Perma-Grit file and a 1/16” cutter to open the
servo arm slot in the vertical fin skin. Open this up to the
marked line and adjust for proper clearance once the
servo is installed and linkage connected.
Assembly & Operation Manual
Use a 1/16” drill bit to drill the (4) servo mounting holes
Install the servo with the servo arm rotated
forward back on itself. Once in place rotate the
arm through the stabilizer skin.
RUDDER CONTROL HORN
Always scuff the gluing surfaces, and clean the clevis hole with a sharp 1/16” drill prior to installation.
Use a 1/16” carbide cutter to make a slot in the control
surface as marked. Set the carbide cutter to the
appropriate depth by comparing it to the length of the
control horn’s base similar to the elevator control horn.
Use a Perma-Grit flat file to adjust and fine-tune the
control horn slot.
The trailing edge of the rudder horn is designed to be
2-3/8” from the trailing edge of the rudder. Make sure
the horn sits flat on the skin surface
Once the fit and alignment of the control horn are
established, place masking tape around the perimeter
of the slot; leaving a 1/16” gap on the sides to allow
for a fillet of AeroPoxy.
Apply AeroPoxy into the slot and the holes on the base of the of the control horn. Push the scuffed
control horn into the surface, and wipe the excess glue away leaving a small fillet.
Pull the surrounding tape from the control horn and clean and glue residue from the painted surface.
Use a long piece of masking tape stretched over the center of the control horn to hold in position
BVM designs our jets for easy access to the engine, fuel system, and electronic components from the
topside
of the model.
This design philosophy minimizes having to flip the model upside down for simple servicing items;
such as changing the igniter plug, checking wire harness and fuel system connections, inspecting the
fuel system for air bubbles etc.
LAPPING THE JOINTS FOR AN IMPROVED FIT
The fit of these parts to the fuselage is important to the overall appearance of the model. The factory
installed plywood frame gives rigidity to the fiberglass molding and allows the edges of the hatches to be
“Lap-Fitted” to the fuselage.
NOTE: The factory has accomplished a preliminary hatch-to-fuselage fitting. The following procedures
will enable the modeler to fine-tune the mating of these parts.
Before installing the hatch retention devices, study how the parts mate together and carefully trim the
edges of the hatch for the best fit possible. Start with the aft round corners of the engine access
hatch.
NOTE: It is helpful to have an assistant to hold the fuselage while fitting and adjusting the hatch edges.
Remove only very small amounts of material at a time.
Proceed to the forward end of the hatch and adjust the mating surfaces there.
Use a strip of paper between the hatch and fuselage to locate the tight spots.
After the ends fit as good as possible, use a piece of sand
paper (#180-#220 grit) to lap the side edges.
NOTE: Properly accomplished, good fitting hatches appear as
scale-like panel lines.
F-6 is a mushroom shaped 1/8” ply former. It is installed 6” aft of
F-5 (the rear wing mount former). Sand the edges for a relaxed fit
and glue it in place with AeroPoxy.
NOTE: The F-6 location is not critical, it functions as a fuselage
stiffener.
Drill these receptacle holes small, then use a Perma-Grit
round file to adjust the size and location necessary to
achieve a proper fit.
Assembly & Operation Manual
Trim the fiberglass as shown, these openings allow visual
reference to the fuel system when the canopy hatch is
removed and to serve to lighten the part.
Scuff the area marked on the engine hatch and use SLO-
ZAP to attach the 1/8” ply engine hatch mounting tab.
Use 5-min epoxy to glue the 1/8” ply engine hatch
reinforcement. Do not force this in place; allow the epoxy
to conform to the fuselage’s natural shape.
A ¾” x ¾” maple block is added to the 1/8” ply to capture
the nylon bolt.
A ¼-20 x 5/8” nylon bolt secures the forward end of the
engine access hatch.
Tape the hatch in place, drill and tap the hole. Start with a
small drill; then use a 3/16” bit. Tap the block ¼-20.
CANOPY HATCH
The same techniques used for the engine hatch can be applied to fitting the canopy hatch. Again
install one “Canopy hook” at a time and adjust it and the slot in the fuselage flange for the best fore/aft
and side-to-side fit possible before proceeding to the next hook.
Trim the (4) hooks as shown make (2) left and (2) rights. Install one
Drill the hole through the canopy hatch into the 1/8” ply plate.
Drill and tap ¾” x ¾” maple block for the rear ¼-20 nylon hold down
bolt. Glue in place on the 1/8” ply plate using the nylon bolt for
proper alignment.
Assembly & Operation Manual
Glue the 1/8” ply rear canopy former in place. This
maintains the shape of the canopy hatch.
Sand paper lap the edges of this hatch for a perfect fit.
FUSELAGE SPREADER
Over time unsupported lightweight fiberglass structures can change shape. Some Bandit ARFs need
to have the fuselage flanges pulled together under the canopy hatch. Install this fuselage support to
maintain the proper width and fit in the canopy hatch area.
Use masking tape to pull the fuselage together to match the
canopy hatch outline.
Remove the hatch and line up the wood support in a
location that does not interfere with normal
maintenance procedures.
Drill the fiberglass flange and wood support stick with a
1/16” drill. Install the wood support using #2 x 3/8” button
head screws.
Bypass is shown with the 2” extension (for P-80/P-
120) and Velcro straps screwed to the bottom using
4 #2 BHSMS. Drill a 3/32” drain hole in the bottom
of the bypass.
Finish the Bypass and cover using the following
steps:
o Sand with #80 grit
o Apply pin hole filler (BVM #1925)
o Brush prime with K36
o Sand with #220, spray primer.
o Sand with #400, apply color and clear.
MOUNTING THE UAT
Assemble the wood UAT mount and install similar.
Use Velcro strap for easy removal of the UAT.
TAIL PIPE
The end of the inner pipe should be positioned ¾” in from the end of the outer pipe.
The distance between the inner pipe and the tail cone of the JetCat P-60 is 1.5”
TAIL PIPE FORMER
Glue the tail pipe former in place approximately 4” from the end of the rear fuselage. This positions
NOTE: BVM uses AeroPoxy for tank assembly as well as major stress areas of model assembly. It is
slow curing, very strong, has great adhesion and is thixotropic - it stays where it is applied. Always check
the nozzle by discarding a 2” stream of glue when nozzle is first used or has been sitting idle for more
than 30 minutes. If another glue is used, be sure it has these properties.
SADDLE TANKS AND HOPPER TANK
Wash tank parts to remove mold release - use detergent and hot water.
#80 grit sand areas close to fitting holes inside and out for best glue adhesion.
Sand mating flange areas of brass parts to be glued.
Clean fittings in acetone.
Check the accessibility of the fuel outlets and vent fittings.
Glue vent fitting into tanks; orient the vents as indicated in drawing.
Glue brass receptacle in as shown.
Allow glue to set.
Do not sand outside of tanks, this could break the surface coat seal.
NOTE: The 6mm fuel tubing must be installed on saddle tanks before
Use a Dremel drum sander to scuff the lap joint of rear sections and mating surface of forward
section. Remove epoxy build up on edge of non lap joint section.
Trial assemble tanks, mark the overlap with pen, sand 1/8” beyond this line for glue adhesion.
Clean tank halves one more time and apply AeroPoxy to mating surfaces, wet the frayed edges of
Kevlar on edge of front section, then fit halves together. Use masking tape to form border for glue.
Pull tape while glue is still soft. Use a generous seal of glue on the outside surfaces. Flex tank slightly
to observe any voids, then finger wipe to form a filleted joint. Allow to cure thoroughly (24 hours).
See drawings for installation of tubing and clunks.
Check tanks for leaks by submerging in water and using only lung pressure, blow into tank through
fuel line. Pinch off ends and check for bubbles. If a leak is detected, scuff the area and patch with
AeroPoxy.
permanent installation into model.
FUEL PICK-UP TUBING
Install the clear tubing (provided), attach to clunks and aluminum stopper. Wrap each with a piece of
safety wire. Install into tanks and check freedom of clunk movement. Hand tighten knurled disc.
NOTE: This urethane internal tubing will expand ½” per 5” of length after Kerosene soaking.
This section contains notes on radio, turbine, tailpipe, fuel system, and retract installation and
operation.
It is assumed that the builder of this kit has acquired the basic skills and knowledge necessary to
make a safe and functional radio control installation into a model. Therefore, these notes are intended
only to assist that experience.
Important note: Securely glue or fasten all components. This jet can reach speed of over 200 mph. It is
your responsibility
to operate it safely.
AILERON CONTROL TRAVEL
Refer to the installation section of this manual and note that the servos are properly secured and the
surrounding structure is sufficiently glued to the wing skins.
Surface travel should be: High Rate 1-1/8” up
1” down
Low Rate 9/16” up
3/8” down
Measured at the Aileron/Flap junction.
NOTE: The aileron differential travel is achieved with he angle of the servo arm with the aileron in the
neutral position. Additional programming can be accomplished if two channels are used in the radio
setup.
RUDDER CONTROL TRAVEL
Refer to the installation section of this manual and note that the servo is properly secured and the
surrounding structure is sufficiently glued to the fin skins.
Surface travel should be: ¾” both directions measured at the tip
ELEVATOR CONTROL TRAVEL
NOTE: Check elevator linkage and servos for damage should the model get handled improperly and
there is a possibility that the elevators got jarred.
Refer to the installation section of this manual and note that the servos are properly secured and the
surrounding structure is sufficiently glued to the stabilizer skins.
The use of flaps for slow flight and landing is essential for the proper operation of a turbine-powered
model. Flaps should be deployed below about 70-80 mph. No pitch trim change is necessary.
The 15 degrees down flap position is used for take-off and the first phase of the landing pattern or
when safe, slow flight is desired. At this angle of deflection, the flaps provide a significant increase in lift
with only a slight increase in drag. Take-off distance will be reduced.
The full flap position of 45 degrees is used for landing. A further increase in lift is available along with
aerodynamic drag that is necessary to overcome the idle thrust of the turbine engine. In strong winds
reduce to 35 degrees for landing.
It is not recommended that the flaps be used with greater than the above max full flap deflection.
Use the 3-position “land” switch will select “flaps up”, “flaps take-off”, and “flaps landing”.
Important note: The flaps must be rigged to deflect equally. This is easily accomplished with a JR
matchbox.
RECEIVER BATTERY
If a 5-cell pack is used, install a 5.2 voltage regulator. Our prototype used 14000 mAH Duralite “stick”
pack and regulator; 6+ flights are achievable.
Place both the ECU and receiver batteries either next to the hopper tank or in the nose as need by
the C.G.
THE RECEIVER
BVM flies our Bandit ARF with the 955s or s2000 receiver to
accommodate the digital servos.
Use sticky back Velcro to hold the receiver in position to the
left side of the fuselage.
ROUTING THE ANTENNA
Route the antenna down the top of the fuselage as shown.
It is your responsibility to be certain that the equipment you use has been
thoroughly tested under these conditions for interference free and long
range operation
Range check the model with the engine off. Note the distance.
Set the failsafe function for the throttle to “engine off” as per the engine manufacturer’s instructions
and about 1/8” up elevator.
Range check the model again with the engine running at ½ power and full power. The engine should
go to the commanded failsafe position at the extremity of the range check. If the distance is less than
the radio manufacturer’s recommended minimum or less than 90% of the engine off range, the
antenna must be re-routed away from the ECU, fuel pump, and associated wires.
Warning: Do not attempt to fly the model until the “engine running” range check is sufficient.
Accomplish a range check prior to each flying session.
CENTER OF GRAVITY
Balance the Bandit ARF with the gear down and fuel only in the UAT. The balance point should be 9”
aft of the L.E. at the wing-to-fuse junction.
Note: This is a change from earlier practice. Your Bandit ARF may have 1/16” holes drilled in the
fuse forward of this 9” point. Drill 2 new holes at the 9” position, install 2 small button head screws to
mark the C.G. position.
Balance the wings by weighing them individually. Add weight to the light wing as follows – example –
right wing is 1 oz heavier than the left, add 1 oz of lead in the aileron servo pocket of the left wing. Glue
the lead in securely.
RECOMMENDED THRUST AND SPEED LIMIT
Not to exceed 200 MPH! Use 20 lb max thrust.
FINISHED WEIGHT
19-21 lbs
SET YOUR TIMER
For the first flight set the timer for 7 minutes, check amount of fuel consumed and adjust accordingly. The
BVM prototype with the JetCat P-60 flies for 9 min and the JetCat P-70 for 7-8 min with proper throttle
management using the standard 8 oz nylon header tank.
When the propulsion force is applied at the rear of a vehicle, it is destabilizing. The slower
the forward speed, and the higher the thrust-to-weight ratio, the more problematic this effect
is. A high powered model jet during the early stages of taking off is exemplary of this
phenomenon.
The Proper Technique
A narrow, paved runway that has obstructions on the sides requires the best techniques.
The first flights should be made in light wind conditions and preferably little or no crosswind.
With good piloting techniques, most jets will handle a 10-15mph crosswind, but save that for
later.
Set the wing flaps to the take-off position and taxi into the take-off position on the centerline
and nose into the wind. Apply about 1/2 up elevator, release the brakes and slowly advance
the throttle to about the 1/2 position. Direction control is primary, first with nose gear steering,
and then as the speed increases, the primary control is with the rudder. Once the rudder
authority is dominate and the model is headed straight down the runway, advance the throttle
to full power. The model will lift off when it has sufficient airspeed.
Retract the gear and climb to a safe altitude and then retract the flaps.
For the first flight, keep the airspeed at a medium level and concentrate on trimming the
model and deciding whether or not the center of gravity is optimum.
The published C.G.'s for BVMJets is on the conservative side - a place to start. You may
want to ease it back on subsequent flights.
TAKE-OFF
The first flights should be made in light wind conditions and preferably little to no crosswind. With
good piloting technique, the Bandit ARF will handle 10-15 mph crosswind, but save that for later.
Set the flaps at the take-off position. (Input 2 clicks of up trim for the first take-off). Hold full up
elevator for the take-off roll until rudder authority is established. The Bandit ARF is a bit nose heavy with
fuel on take-off, so expect about a 200 ft roll and a fair amount of up elevator (3/4”) to rotate.
After unstuck, retract the gear and climb to a safe altitude, retract the flaps and reduce power to
cruise speed of about 100 mph.
SLOW FLIGHT
Most of the first flight should be utilized to get familiar with the slow speed flight characteristics.
Select the flaps to the take-off position; there should be no pitch change. Extend the gear and select
full landing flaps; adjust the power to maintain level flight and a speed of about 70-80 mph.
Climb to a safe altitude and slow the model to the edge of a stall to know where that edge is. A good
landing speed will be 10-15 mph above stall. Fly race track patterns at that speed and about 200 ft
altitude to become familiar with the power setting required to maintain level flight.
A good landing follows a power controlled, constant speed, and constant sink rate approach from the
180 degree position. The Bandit ARF will require about a quarter to half throttle during the turn to final.
On final approach, reduce the power a few clicks more and fly a 2-3 degree glide slope.
Once over the end of the runway and within a few feet of the ground, reduce the power to idle and
flare for landing. If runway length is limited, preset (in the landing pattern) the brakes to ¾ on, adjust on
roll out.
If there is a crosswind component, put the ailerons into the wind and maintain heading with opposite
rudder for the roll out. Braking on a hard surface runway should be gentle. Come to a complete stop
before turning for taxi back.
EMERGENCY PROCEDURES
GO AROUND
Apply full power and rotate nose up to 5-10 degrees
Flaps to the take-off position, retract the speed brake.
Gear up
Climb to a safe altitude and re-enter the landing pattern.
NOTE: If fuel is very low, delay full flaps and landing gear until on final approach. Use speed brake as
needed.
FLAME OUT
Select take-off flaps
Land into the wind
Land gear up in the grass if runway is out of range.
Glide and landing speed will be determined by the weight of fuel remaining.
LOSS OF CONTROL
Shut the engine down. Pre-flight you helper on how to do this; you may be too busy trying to fly. Shutting
down the engine before impact is the most important procedure to prevent a fire.
LANDING GEAR WILL NOT EXTEND
Burn off excess fuel and land with take-off flaps. Shut the engine down prior to touchdown.
SPLIT FLAP CONDITION
Always extend the flaps at a safe altitude. If a violent roll occurs, retract them immediately. Fly a faster
than normal approach (about 10-15 mph) and shutdown the engine prior to flare out for landing.
NOTE: IF EQUIPMENT OTHER THAN JR IS USED, CONSULT THE MANUFACTURER FOR SIMILAR
COMPONENTS.
To make the Bandit ARF very easy to rig, we chose to put each servo on it’s own channel. This allows
easy adjustments and servo reversing to each flight control.
Simply download the JR data safe file if you plan to use our program layout.
The only difficult mix involved moves the gear channel to Aux 5.
*NOTE: Reverse servos and Y-harnesses are not required when 2 servos are used with a JR Match
Box.
The JR Match Box can also be used on rudder and nose gear steering to avoid any need for reversed
servos.
Radio manufacturers are constantly improving their equipment - consult their representatives or BVM (JR
only) for the latest and best servos.