Contact your insurance company for coverage and installation inspection
FEATURES
PREPARATIONS INSTALLATION
OPERATION MAINTENANCE SAFETY
SAFETY NOTICE
IF THIS HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.
FOR YOUR SAFETY, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. CONTACT
THE AUTHORITY HAVING JURISDICTION ( SUCH AS MUNICIPAL
BUILDING DEPARTMENT, FIRE DEPARTMENT, FIRE PREVENTION BUREAU,
etc.) CONSULT BEFORE INSTALLATION TO DETERMINE THE NEED TO
OBTAIN A PERMIT. KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE USE.
TESTED AND LISTED BY: ITS/WARNOCK HERSEY, MIDDLETON, WI
MANUFACTURED BY NEW BUCK CORPORATION
200 ETHAN ALLEN DRIVE, PO BOX 69
SPRUCE PINE, N.C. 28777
www.buckstove.com Revised January 2013
PN-PI-200660
Page 2
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1:
Room Heater Features ................................................................................................................................................. 3
Important Statements .................................................................................................................................................. 4
Tools for Installation ................................................................................................................................................... 8
Positioning the Heater ................................................................................................................................................. 9
Mounting the Trim Panels ......................................................................................................................................9-10
Final Check ............................................................................................................................................................... 11
Tools for Installation ................................................................................................................................................. 15
Determining the Chimney Location .......................................................................................................................... 16
Final Check ............................................................................................................................................................... 19
SECTION IV:
Mobile Home Installation ......................................................................................................................................... 20
Parts Requirements ................................................................................................................................................... 20
Tools for Installation ................................................................................................................................................. 21
Determining the Chimney Location .......................................................................................................................... 23
Final Check ............................................................................................................................................................... 24
Building a Fire .......................................................................................................................................................... 30
Operating and Safety Hints ....................................................................................................................................... 32
Guide to Burning Qualities of Wood ........................................................................................................................ 32
Door Gasket Replacement......................................................................................................................................... 35
Mobile Home Installations ........................................................................................................................................ 55
WARRANTY—Heater .............................................................................................................................. Back Cover
Page 1
Page 4
SECTION I
The New Buck Corporation room heater Model 20 is one of the safest and most efficient heating systems
available when installed and operated as specified in these instructions and as stipulated on the operation and
installation labels affixed to the unit. The unit is designed to burn wood fuel only.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. Failure to follow instructions may
result in property damage, bodily injury or even death.
Throughout manual, you will see this symbol . This indicates areas of importance regarding safety. Please
make a special note of these areas.
Install and use only in accordance with the manufacturers installation and operating instructions. Do not connect
this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
ROOM HEATER FEATURES
Before attempting to install or operate your heater, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with features and
operating controls of unit.
OPERATING CONTROLS
WARNING: Model 20 heater was not designed for fire grates.
1. Bypass Damper: The bypass damper control is located at top center of heater front just under top. It is
operated by pushing or pulling damper rod. The damper is fully open when handle is pulled out and fully
closed when it is pushed in. The damper must be open before door is opened.
2. Blower Control: The blower control switch is located behind access door at lower right hand side of front of
unit. The unit has an Auto-Off-Manual switch. Set switch to Manual position and blower will start at any
temperature. Set switch to Off position and blower will not run at any temperature. Set switch to Auto
position and when stove temperature reaches 110o F, blower will automatically turn on.
3. Primary Air Control:
extension. It is operated by moving up and down to control the amount of primary air entering firebox.
4. Warm Air Outlets: Provides heat extraction from top of firebox.
5. Baffles: Directs air flow around unit for maximum heat transfer.
6. Air Inlet: Allows cool air near floor to be circulated through blower and back into warm air chamber of
heater.
7. Stand: Elevates heater above floor for safety and a neat appearance.
8. Door:Provides an “airtight” feature. The door allows a much higher burning efficiency than can be obtained
with an open firebox.
9. Hearth Extension: Offers protection from spilled ashes and cinders.
10. Power Cord: Provides electrical power to operate blower.
11. Chimney Connector: Used to connect unit to chimney or direct connect kit.
12. Catalysts: Enables unit to burn cleanly and efficiently.
13. Temperature Monitor: The location can be used for either a fireplace insert or freestanding installation.
Monitor hole is located to right of damper rod on front. Remove plug and insert probe provided by
manufacturer.
14. Cover Door: Conceals blower, blower controls and ash pan.
15. Air Wash:Primary air is directed in such a way as to provide a “sweeping” air wash over the glass to assist in
keeping it clean.
16. Ash Pan: Provides for easy ash removal
17. Outside Air Control: Allows for adjustment of amount of outside air entering unit (installations using outside
air kit #P21B). Required in Mobile Home Installation.
The primary air intake draft control is located on upper portion of unit next to top
Page 2
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EPA COMPLIANCE STATUS
This manual describes the installation and operation of the New Buck Corporation, Model 20 wood heater.
This heater meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Emission limits for wood heaters sold after July
1, 1992. Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from
approximately 10,000 to 39,000 BTU/hr.
SAFETY STANDARD COMPLIANCE
The Model 20 catalytic solid fuel (wood) burning combination room heater/fireplace stove manufactured by
New Buck Corporation complies with UL 1482-1988:16CFR1209:UL 127 (1988): UL 1482 (2006):UL 1482
(2008):UL 1482 (2006):UL 1482 (2010) and UL 737-1995 for residential freestanding and masonry fireplace
insert installations when constructed and installed in accordance with ITS approved documentation.
CATALYST EQUIPPED
This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, which needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper
operation. It is against the law to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions
in this manual or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.
CATALYST WARRANTY
The combustor supplied with this heater is a set of (2) (2x3-5/16x7x25 cells). Consult the catalytic combustor
warranty also supplied with this heater. All warranty claims should be addressed to:
Applied Ceramics
Customer Service Department
P.O. Box 29664
Atlanta, GA 30359
770-448-6888
See enclosed catalyst warranty for instructions. New Buck Corporation does not handle catalyst replacements.
Customer can order directly from Applied Ceramics.
PROPER FUEL SELECTION
This heater is designed to burn dried natural seasoned hard wood only. Higher efficiencies and lower emissions
generally result when burning air dried natural seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or
freshly cut hardwoods.
DO NOT BURN:
1) Treated Wood 3) Garbage 5) Solvents 7) Trash
2) Coal 4) Cardboard 6) Colored Paper
Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or trash may result in release of toxic fumes and may
poison or render catalytic combustor ineffective.
Burning coal, cardboard or loose paper can produce soot or large flakes of char or fly ash that can coat
combustor, causing smoke spillage into room and rendering combustor ineffective.
ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF
The temperature in stove and gases entering combustor must be raised to between 500o F to 700o F for catalytic
activity to be initiated. This can be determined with use of a temperature monitor (TM-20). During start up of a
cold stove, a medium to high firing rate must be maintained for about 20 minutes. This ensures that stove,
catalyst and fuel are all stabilized at proper operating temperatures. Even though it is possible to have gas
temperatures reach 600o F within two to three minutes after a fire is started, if fire is allowed to die down
immediately it may go out or combustor may stop working. If this happens open damper to raise temperature
to activate catalyst. Once the combustor starts working, heat generated in it by burning smoke will keep it
working.
ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF WHEN REFUELING
During refueling and rekindling of a cool fire or a fire that has burned down to charcoal phase, operate stove at
a medium to high firing rate for about 10 minutes to ensure catalyst reaches approximately 600
o
F.
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CATALYST MONITORING
It is important to periodically monitor operation of catalytic combustor to ensure that it is functioning properly and
to determine when it needs to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of heating efficiency
and an increase in creosote and emissions. The following is a list of items that should be checked on a periodic
basis.
Combustors should be visually inspected at least three times during heating season to determine if physical
degradation has occurred. Actual removal of the combustor is not recommended unless more detailed inspection is
warranted because of decrease in performance. If any of these conditions exist, refer to Catalyst Troubleshooting
Section of the owner’s manual.
This catalytic heater is equipped with means to install a temperature probe to monitor catalyst operation. Properly
functioning combustors typically maintain temperatures in excess of 1000o F. If catalyst temperatures are not in
excess of 500
catalyst is working by comparing the amount of smoke leaving the chimney (when the smoke is going through the
combustor and catalyst light-off has been achieved) to amount of smoke leaving chimney when the smoke is not
routed through combustor (bypass mode).
Step 1—Light stove in accordance with instructions.
Step 2—With smoke routed through catalyst, go outside and observe emissions leaving
chimney.
Step 3—Engage bypass mechanism and again observe emissions leaving the chimney.
Significantly more smoke should be seen when exhaust is not routed through the combustor (bypass mode). Be
careful not to confuse smoke with steam from wet wood.
o
F, refer to Catalyst Troubleshooting section of this owner’s manual. A indication of whether
CAUTION AGAINST OVER-FIRING
Do not over-fire this heater.
Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in permanent damage to
the heater and to the catalytic combustor.
MAINTAIN PROPER DRAFT
Draft is the force which moves air from appliance up through chimney. The amount of draft in your chimney
depends on length of chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions and other factors. Too much draft may cause
excessive temperatures in appliance and may damage catalytic combustor. Inadequate draft may cause backpuffing
into room and “plugging” of chimney or catalyst.
Inadequate draft will cause appliance to leak smoke into room through appliance and chimney connector joints.
An uncontrollable burn or a glowing red stove part or chimney connector indicates excessive draft.
ASH REMOVAL
CAUTION: Never remove ashes from heater with blower running.
Whenever ashes build up in firebox and when fire has burned down and cooled, remove excess ashes. Leave an
ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on firebox bottom to help maintain a hot charcoal bed.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed
on a non-combustible floor or on ground, away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. The ashes
should be retained in closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Page 4
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SECTION II
MASONRY INSERT INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS
Extensive field and laboratory testing has shown that catalytic stoves perform best as fireplace inserts when:
1. A direct connect kit is used to connect the stove exhaust outlet directly to masonry flue of fireplace when flue
liner size is approximately same size as heater flue gas exit. A rain cap is also recommended to keep flue dry
thus allowing a hotter draft.
NFPA 211 CODE: The National Fire Protection Association code requires all fireplace insert heaters to be
positively connected from heater to flue liner (subject to State and Local codes in your area).
2. An equivalent sized flue liner is installed when flue liner size is larger than heater flue gas exit. Connection
must be from stove exhaust outlet extending full height of chimney and must include a rain cap.
3. Location of chimney is interior (not on an outside wall).
Satisfactory results have been reported with installations other than as listed above. However, as all chimneys draw
differently, problems with performance may be encountered if steps are not taken to keep the chimney hot. A draft
between .03 and .06 inches of water column is recommended for proper catalytic operation.
Use the following to complete installation of unit as an insert : Kit #FP20
INSTALLATION
(Fireplace Insert)
CAUTION
REMEMBER TO HAVE YOUR CHIMNEY INSPECTED FOR LEAKS AND BLOCKAGE
BEFORE YOU INSTALL YOUR STOVE. DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A
CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
FIGURE 1 FIREPLACE INSERT
REQUIRED FIREPLACE DIMENSIONS
Minimum and/or maximum fireplace dimensions:
Height Width Depth
Min. Max. Min. Max. Min.
Model 20 22” 31” 26” 41”16”
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Page 8
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
FLOOR PROTECTION
Floor protector must be 3/8" minimum thickness non-combustible material or equivalent.
How to use alternate materials and how to calculate equivalent thickness
An easy means of determining if a proposed alternate floor protector meets requirements listed
in the appliance manual is to follow this procedure:
1. Convert specification to R-value:
R-value is given—no conversion is needed.
K– factor is given with a required thickness (T) in inches:
C-factor is given: R=1/C
2. Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate floor protector.
Use the formula in step (1) to convert values not expressed as “R”
For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to determine the overall R-value.
3. If the overall R-value of the system is greater than the R-value of the specified floor
protector, the alternate is acceptable.
Example:
The specified floor protector should be 3/4” thick material with a K-factor of 0.84.
The proposed alternate is 4” brick with a C-factor of 1.25 over 1/8” mineral board with a
K-factor of 0.29.
Step (a): Use formula above to convert specification to R-value. R= 1/K x T = 1/0.84 x .75 =
0.893
Step (b): Calculate R of proposed system. 4” brick of C=1.25, therefore Rbrick = 1/C = 1/1.25 = 0.80 1/8” mineral board of K = 0.29, therefore Rmin.bd. =1/029 x0.125 = 0.431
Step (c): Compare proposed system R of 1.231 to specified R of 0.893. Since proposed
system R is greater than required , the system is acceptable.
Definitions:
Thermal conductance = C = Btu = W
(hr)(ft²)(°F) (m²)(°K)
Thermal conductance = K = (Btu)(inch) = W = (Btu)
(hr)(ft²)(°f) (m)(°K) (hr)(tf)(°F)
Thermal conductance = R = (ft²)(hr)(°F) = (m²)(°K)
Btu W
Install in accordance with 24 CFR, Part 3280 (HUD).
Page 6
Page 9
POSSIBLE TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
If you decide to install your own stove, there are several hand tools you may need to do the job. If
you do not already have them, they are readily available at most hardware stores.
Caulking gun
Large adjustable wrench (may not be needed)
Drop cloths or newspapers
Vacuum cleaner or whisk broom
Flashlight
1 tube of RTV silicone, Code 103 or 106, or high temperature rubber cement rated between 450o
F- 600o F
7/32" drill bit and drill
Socket/Ratchet Set
INSTALLATION PREPARATION
Fireplace:
1. Relocate furniture and other materials away from front of fireplace to allow free access to
fireplace.
2. Cover hearth and adjacent floor areas with a drop cloth to protect from soiling or marring
surface.
3. Remove existing fireplace damper plate.
4. Thoroughly clean fireplace of ashes and soot.
5. Check chimney and smoke chamber for excessive buildup of creosote or soot. Also, check for
obstructions, such as bird’s nests. If chimney is excessively dirty, clean it or have someone
clean it professionally BEFORE installing or using room heater.
6. If fireplace has an ash dump or outside air provision, these must be sealed off with metal or
tightly packed non-combustible insulation to prevent cold air from entering fireplace chamber.
MASONRY INSERT INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION OPTIONS
This unit (appliance) may be installed into an all masonry fireplace, built in accordance with the
Uniform Building Code and the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 211).NOTE: Check with local building officials for any permits required for installation of this unit
and notify your insurance company before proceeding with installation
In some cases such as improperly drawing fireplaces, oversize flue liners or to meet codes in
certain areas, it is recommended that one of the following procedures be followed:
A. A Chimney Connector can be installed from appliance flue exit through damper and
an air-tight face seal. See option (A) page 9.
B. A listed Direct Connect can be installed from appliance flue exit through damper
into first section of flue liner with air-tight seal. See option (B) page 9.
C. A Positive Connect can be installed from appliance flue exit continuing through
entire chimney and exiting at top of the chimney. See option (C) page 9.
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SAFETY NOTICE
If this appliance is not properly installed, a house fire may result. For your safety, follow the installation directions.
Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
OPTION (A)
AIRTIGHT INSU-
STARTER PIPE
SEAL TRIM PANELS AND UNDER
FRONT OF STOVE UNIT WITH
INSULATION OR HIGH
TEMPERATURE CAULK
NOTE: New Buck Corporation grants no
warranty, implied or stated, for the installation
or maintenance of your appliance, and assumes
no responsibility of any consequential damage
LATED CLEANOUT
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE
IT OPEN
OPTION (B)
NOTE: Follow installation instruction
with Direct Connection Kit.
(Kit sold separately)
SEAL TRIM PANELS
WITH INSULATION
OR HIGH
TEMPERATURE
CAULK
STAINLESS
STEEL
CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR MUST
EXTEND 1’
PAST THE
BLOCK-OFF
PLATE OR
TO THE
FLUE LINER
AIRTIGHT
INSULATED
CLEANOUT
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE IT
OPEN
OPTION (C)
NOTE: Follow installation
instruction with Positive
Connection Kit.
(Kit sold separately)
INSTALL A NON-COMBUSTIBLE
COVER PLATE TO PREVENT
WATER FROM ENTERING THE
CHIMNEY
TRIM PANELS
CAP(PREVENTS
WATER FROM
ENTERING)
FLUE
LINER
THE LINER MUST
BE STAINLESS
STEEL CONNECTOR OR FLEXIBLE
VENT. FOLLOW
THE LINER MANU-
FACTURER’S IN-
STRUCTIONS FOR
INSTALLATION
AND SUPPORT.
AIRTIGHT
INSULATED
CLEAN-OUT
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE
IT OPEN
BLOCK-OFF PLATE
OR DAMPER
ADAPTER
Page 8
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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
(Use a chimney connector or a Listed Direct or Positive Connect) (See Page 9.)
POSITIONING THE HEATER
When positioning heater, following conditions MUST be
met! (See Figure 2).
1. The front of damper opening must be positioned
BEHIND back edge of lintel to ensure proper draft.
(See Figure 2).
2. Center heater in the fireplace opening.
MOUNTING THE TRIM PANELS
After unit is positioned, mark mounting position of trim
panels as follows:
1. Place side trim panels in place, flat against face of
fireplace. Mark front edge of trim panel with pencil
to make vertical reference line. (See Figure 3).
2. Place long trim panel on top of unit. The panel
should be flat against outside face of fireplace and
standing vertically. Mark the lower edge of trim
panel with a pencil to make a reference line for
mounting.
3. Slide unit out of fireplace far enough to work
behind trim panel reference lines.
4. Mount side trim panels. (See Figure 3).
FIGURE 3 MOUNTING TRIM PANELS
a. Position trim panel on reference line.
b. Drill mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets to allow for adjustment in
and out if necessary.
c. Mount trim panel using self-tapping screws provided.
5. Place top panel back on reference mark. Top trim panel mounting bracket is supplied with unit. Position
bracket so it overlaps rear lip of top trim panel. Drill mounting holes in top of stove using holes in bracket as
guide. Tighten screws.
6. Follow installation procedures in listed direct connect or positive connect kit you are using and install heater
connect kit in fireplace. If not using one of the installation methods shown on
(Page 9), continue.
7. Slide unit back into the fireplace. Ensure trim panels are properly positioned and lie flat against front of fireplace. If one or more panels is out of position, slide unit out and reset by loosening mounting screws and repositioning in slot. Reinstall top trim panel by sliding rear lip of top trim panel underneath front lip of mounting bracket already secured to top of unit.
8. NOTE: Mount the top trim panel so that it sits in front of the top of the side trim panels.
FIGURE 2 POSITIONING
Page 9
Page 12
9. Obtain the brass trim kit provided with insert kit and slip over top and sides of trim panels. Top ends of
brass may need to be trimmed to fit (See Figure 4).
10. Using insulation provided, peel and stick to back of panels overlapping fireplace dimensions by 1" on each
side and top. (See Figure 4A).
11. Next using high heat silicone, or furnace cement, run heavy bead of caulking around where panels meet the
stove. (See Figure 4A).
12. Slide unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that trim panels (and brass) are properly positioned
and lie flat against front of fireplace. If panels are out of position, slide unit out and reset by loos
ening mounting screws and repositioning in the slot. Using the bar, lift stove up in front. Place insulation
across front and surface of hearth or bottom of fireplace to make complete seal.
13. To check seal of panels, use candle flame and go around entire area sealed by silicone and insulation. If flame
leans toward inside of fireplace, add additional insulation. This ensures an airtight seal.
Top Trim Panel
Outer Trim
Buck Stove
Primary Air
Control
HIGH TEMP
SILICONE
Side Trim Panel
FINAL CHECK
FIGURE 4
FIGURE 4A
1. Recheck specified clearances.
2. Remove all foreign material from firebox area.
3. Open primary air control. Primary air intake control is located at top right side of stove. It is operated by moving
up (to close) and down (to open) to control amount of primary air entering firebox.. (See Figure 4).
4. Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet if optional motor is being used. Do not run cord under unit or in
high traffic areas.
5. Place rumpled pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light it and close door. Ensure that stove draws properly
through primary draft.
NOTE: Do not use grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly on inner bottom of fire box.
6. Check for smoke leaks around door.
7. Open door and check for smoke escaping from front of stove. Smoking usually indicates a defective or poorly
positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting newspaper and holding
it near open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once chimney heats up, a proper draft can usually be obtained.
If a thorough review of Troubleshooting Guide in manual does not reveal problem, contact your dealer for
assistance.
INSULATION
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CAUTION
THE UNIT IS PAINTED WITH A SPECIALLY FORMULATED
HIGH TEMPERATURE PAINT THAT CURES DURING THE FIRST TWO OR
THREE FIRINGS. YOU MAY NOTICE A SLIGHT SMOKING EFFECT AND AN
ODOR OF BURNING PAINT WHEN YOU BUILD THE FIRST FIRES. THIS IS
NORMAL AND IS NOT A CAUSE FOR ALARM. IN SOME CASES, THESE FUMES
WILL ACTIVATE A SMOKE ALARM. OPENING A WINDOW NEAR UNIT WILL
ALLOW THESE FUMES TO ESCAPE. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE, ROARING FIRE
UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED.
The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once a month during the heating
season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.
CAUTION
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE,
CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR "FRESHEN
UP" A FIRE IN HEATER. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM
STOVE WHEN IT IS IN USE. ALL FLUIDS OF THIS TYPE GIVE OFF
VOLATILE FUMES AND CAN AND WILL EXPLODE!! DON'T TAKE A CHANCE
WITH SAFETY OF YOUR HOME AND FAMILY.
Page 11
Page 14
SECTION III
RESIDENTIAL FREESTANDING ROOM HEATER
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION PRECAUTION
Extensive field and laboratory testing has shown that catalytic stoves perform best as freestanding stoves when
vented into a masonry chimney if:
1. A rain cap is installed on chimney.
2. Height of chimney is at least 15 feet high.
3. Location of chimney is interior (not on an outside wall).
NOTE: Certain types of double wall pipe (close clearance) also cause a substantial drop in flue gas temperature. If
a double wall pipe connector is being contemplated, check with pipe manufacturer to ascertain that use of their
product will not affect flue gas temperature. Do not use double wall pipes which reduce flue gas temperatures.
Satisfactory results have been reported with installations other than listed above. However, draft problems are
possible if a hot chimney is not maintained.
Use pedestal kits as follow:
Model 20 Kit #P8 or #P21B
CAUTION: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Page 12
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MINIMUM CLEARANCES
The New Buck Corporation Model 20 must be installed in compliance with instructions contained in this manual.
CLEARANCE FROM COMBUSTIBLE WALLS AND CEILINGS (Using single wall chimney connector)
The minimum lateral distance between any part of the room heater and combustible walls is shown in Figures 1
and 2.
If a freestanding model is to be installed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible pad must be placed below it to
protect floor from burning material from stove. UL tests were conducted without a floor protector. Therefore,
protector can be of any thickness and any K* factor.
The unit must be positioned on pad so that there is a minimum of 16” from the front of door opening to front of
pad and a minimum of 8” measured horizontally from the sides of fuel loading and ash removal openings to sides
of pad.
NOTE: For clearance reductions using wall protectors, refer to the NFPA -211 code.
Page 13
Page 16
Close clearance installations using listed Close Clearance pipe and 2100o HT chimney system from approved
Electric Drill with 3/32” drill bit
5/16” combination wrench
5/16” magnetic socket chuck adapter, 5/16” wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench
Socket Set
Tape Measure
Pencil
Level
PREPARING THE STOVE FOR INSTALLATION
1. Inspect unit for any obvious physical damage.
2. Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
3. Check primary air draft control to ensure that it operates freely.
4. Check operation of bypass damper control to ensure that it will open and close properly.
5. Remove any items from within the firebox. Spread drop cloth on floor behind heater. Next, tilt heater so that
back is on drop cloth.
6. Using a tape measure, make a line down 3” from front of heater.
7. Open corresponding freestanding kit and obtain stand. Place stand against bottom of heater (angle side to
heater) at marked line. Center stand left and right and mark screw locations on bottom through outer holes of
stand mounting angles. Set stand aside and drill four 3/32” holes in heater bottom.
8. Obtain four 3/16” self-tapping screws and secure stand to heater. (See Figure 4A)
9. Reposition heater to upright position.
FOUR NEW HOLES
Figure 4A
Page 14
Page 17
PREPARING THE ROOM HEATER LOCATION
1. Select an installation location that will give the best airflow from front of heater to remainder of home.
2. Place protective floor pad in position.
3. Place unit on pad making sure the minimum clearance specifications are met.
4. If connecting to an existing masonry flue, first ensure that flue conforms to the NFPA-211 Code and/or
consult your local code for proper procedures.
CHIMNEY
This room heater must be converted to (1) a chimney complying with the requirements for Type HT chimneys in
the Standard for Chimneys, Factory-Built, Residential, Type and Building Heating Appliance, UL 103, or (2) a
code approved masonry chimney with a flue liner.
CAUTION: Certain installation types require the use of certain chimney types. Please follow these
instructions exactly.
DETERMINING THE CHIMNEY LOCATION
A. Ceiling Exit (Using Single Wall Pipe)
1. Suspend a plumb bob from ceiling above unit so that weight is hanging in center of flue exit. (A small
weight on a string will serve as a plumb bob.) Mark ceiling where string is suspended to locate center of
chimney.
2. After locating center of hole, install ceiling support box, chimney or chimney connector, flashing and rain
Cap per chimney manufacturers instructions and local building codes for installation through combustible
walls or ceilings.
3. Now connect stove and ceiling
support box using #24 ga.
minimum blued or black steel
connector pipe (DO NOT USE
GALVANIZED PIPE).
Connect each section so
crimped end faces downward
and secure each section to each
other using at least three (3)
sheet metal screws or rivets.
Single wall pipe is to be
connected with 3 screws or
rivets to New Buck
Corporation Chimney
Connector after connector has
been attached to stove. (See
Figure 5)
NOTE:
SEE CHIMNEY
MANUFACTURERS
INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR INSTALLING
CHIMNEY AND
CEILING TRIM
PLATE.
CEILING
CEILING
SUPPORT
BOX
SINGLE WALL
CONNECTOR PIPE
NEW BUCK CORP.
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
FIGURE 5
Page 15
Page 18
B. Wall Exit into Metal Tee-Box
1. Mark plumb line on wall directly behind
center of heater. (See Figure 6)
2. Place vertical portion of heater pipe and
elbow in position and project a point
onto plumb line level with center of
elbow.
PASS-THROUGH
CONNECTOR
3. Measure up so there will be at least 1/4”
rise per foot of horizontal connector
pipe, maintaining clearances to ceiling as
noted in Figure 6. This will give you
center of hole for chimney penetration.
4. After locating center of penetration,
install tee-box and chimney or chimney
connector as per chimney manufacturers
specifications and local building codes
for installation through combustible
walls or ceilings.
FIGURE 6 FLUE EXIT
5. Connect chimney collar to tee-box using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel connector pipe. DO NOT
USE GALVANIZED PIPE. Connect each section so crimped end faces downward and secure each section to
each other using at least three (3) steel sheet metal screws or rivets.
6. After securing New Buck Corporation Chimney Connector to heater, secure pipe to connector with three (3)
screws or rivets.
C. Wall Exit Into Masonry (Using Single
Wall Pipe)
Before connecting Model 20 to a
masonry chimney, determine that
masonry fireplace wall pass-through
connector thimble meets the NFPA-211
code and local building codes and is a
minimum of 18” from the ceiling. If
connector thimble does not meet these
codes, pass-through connector must
be modified. NOTE: Follow chimney or
chimney connector manufacturer’s
instructions.
Connectors may pass through walls or
partitions constructed of combustible
material if the connector is:
(a) Either listed for wall pass-through or
is routed through a device listed for
wall pass-through and is installed in
accordance with the conditions of
the listing
CHIMNEY
FIGURE 7 FLUE GAS EXIT INTO
MASONRY CHIMNEY
Page 16
Page 19
(b) Selected or fabricated in accordance with conditions and clearances as stated in NFPA-211 code. Any
unexposed metal that is used as part of a wall pass-through system and is exposed to flue gases shall be
constructed of stainless steel or other equivalent material that will resist corrosion, softening, or cracking
from flue gases at temperatures up to 1800o F.
In addition, a connector to a masonry chimney shall extend through wall to inner face or liner but not beyond. It
shall be firmly cemented to masonry.
Exception: A thimble may be used to facilitate removal of chimney connector for cleaning, in which case thimble
shall be permanently cemented in place with high temperature cement.
2. Once the through-the-wall thimble codes are met, simply connect chimney collar to wall pass-through
connector using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel connector pipe as follows:
(a) Maintain 1/4” rise per foot (horizontal length) from appliance to chimney.
(b) Connect each section so crimped end faces downward.
(c) Secure each section to each other using at least three (3) sheet metal screws or rivets.
(d) After securing New Buck Corporation Chimney Connector to heater secure pipe to connector with three
(3) screws or rivets.
D. Ceiling Exit-Close Clearance (Using Listed Close Clearance Pipe and 2100o HT Chimney System From
Approved Manufacturers List. ) (See page 18)
1. Suspend a plumb bob from ceiling
above unit so that weight is hanging
in the center of flue exit. (A small
NOTE: SEE SIMPSON
DURA-VENT TYPE
“DP” CHIMNEY
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
INSTALLING CHIMNEY.
CEILING
CEILING SUPPORT BOX
weight on a string will serve as a
plumb bob. Mark ceiling where
string is suspended to locate center
of chimney hole.
2. After locating center of hole, install
ceiling support box, chimney,
flashing and rain cap.
NEW BUCK
CORP. CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
SIMPSON DURAVENT TYPE
”DVL” DOUBLE
WALL CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR
3. Next, install a New Buck Corporation Chimney Connector to flue
of the heater.
4. Connect listed chimney to heater and
follow pipe manufacturers
installation instructions exactly.
FIGURE 8
Page 17
Page 20
FINAL CHECK
1. Recheck specified clearances.
2. Remove all foreign material from firebox area.
3. Open primary air draft and damper bypass.
4. Plug power cord into a 115V ACoutlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
5. Place crumpled pieces of newspaper in stove. Light it and close door. Ensure that stove draws properly
through primary draft.
6. Check for smoke leaks around door.
7. Open door and check for smoke escaping from front of stove. Smoking usually indicates a defective or poorly
positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting newspaper and
holding it near open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once chimney heats up, a proper draft can usually be
obtained.
If a thorough review of Troubleshooting Guide in manual does not reveal problem, contact your dealer for
assistance.
NOTE: The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or
three firings. You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build first fires. This
is normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases, these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a window
near the unit will allow these fumes to escape. DO NOT build a large, roaring fire until this curing is complete or
heater finish may be damaged.
Page 18
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SECTION IV
MOBILE HOME ROOM HEATER INSTALLATION
WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN
SLEEPING ROOM.
CAUTION: The structural integrity of
mobile home floor, wall and ceiling/roof
must be maintained.
Parts Requirements:
MODEL 20
New Buck Corporation
New Buck Corporation
New Buck Corporation
UL Listed and factory approved Chimney Systems:
Simpson Dura-Vent
Simpson Dura-Vent
Security
Security
Selkirk Metal Bestos
Selkirk Metal Bestos
Metal Fab
Metal Fab
Page 19
Part Description / Part -
Model 20 Room Heater
Outside air pedestal kit #P21B
6” Chimney Connector #MA-6CHIMCNB
6” Double wall chimney connector type DVL
6” 2100
6” Type DL Double wall connector
6” Security type “ASHT” high temp chimney
6” Model DS Double wall connector
6” Model SSII Type HT chimney system
6” Type DW Double wall connector
6” 2100
o
HT Type “DP” Chimney
o
HT chimney
Page 22
Clearance from combustible walls using listed Close Clearance pipe and 2100o HT chimney system from approved
manufacturer’s list. (See page 18)
If room heater is to be installed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible pad must be placed below it to protect
floor from burning material from stove. Tests were conducted without a floor protector. Therefore, protector can be
of any thickness and any K* factor.
The unit must be positioned on pad so that there is a minimum of 16” from front of door opening to front of pad,
and a minimum of 8” measured horizontally from sides of fuel loading and ash removal openings to sides of pad.
TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION
Drop cloth
3/32” Metal drill bit
5/16” magnetic socket chuck adapter, 5/16” wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench
Jigsaw with masonry, metal and wood blades
WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN A SLEEPING ROOM.
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Page 23
PREPARING THE HEATER FOR INSTALLATION
1. Inspect unit for any obvious physical damage.
2. Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
3. Check primary air draft control to ensure that it operates freely.
4. Check operation of damper bypass control to ensure that it will open and close properly.
5. Remove any items from within the firebox. Spread drop cloth on floor behind heater. Next, tilt the heater so
that back is on drop cloth.
6. Using a tape measure, make a line down 3” from front of heater.
7. Open proper outside air freestanding kit and obtain stand. Place stand against bottom of heater (angle side to
heater) at the marked line. Center stand left to right and mark screw locations on bottom through outer holes
of stand mounting angles. Set stand aside and drill four 3/32” holes in heater bottom.
8. Obtain the four #10-16 x 3/4” self-tapping screws provided and secure stand to heater.
9. Reposition heater to upright position.
FOUR NEW HOLES
Figure 3
BYPASS DAMPER CONTROL
PRIMARY AIR CONTROL
PREPARING THE ROOM HEATER LOCATION
1. Select an installation location that will give best airflow from front of heater to the remainder of home.
2. Place protective floor pad in position.
3. Place unit on pad making sure minimum clearance specifications are met. (See Page 21).
4. Lightly mark with a pencil location of pedestal on protective pad.
5. Next, remove four (4) screws holding heater to stand. Position heater out of the way of installation area.
6. Check that pedestal stand is still aligned with marks, mark inside outside air opening of stand on pad.
7. Next, mark the center line of outside air opening. Set stand aside for now.
8. Next, cut a 4 1/4” diameter hole (2 1/8” radius from centerline) in pad and continue through floor.
CAUTION! The structural integrity of mobile home floor must be maintained. (Move opening and/or
reposition heater location if necessary.)
9. Reposition pedestal stand and set on pad being sure to line stand up with reference marks.
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Page 24
10. Using an electric drill and 3/8” masonry bit, drill four (4) holes in the protective pad using holes in bottom side lips of
pedestal stand as a guide. Be careful to drill only through the pad and not into the floor. Change to a 1/4” metal bit
and drill through floor.
11. Using four (4) 3/8” x 1-1/2” lag bolts, secure pedestal stand and pad to floor of mobile home. CAUTION. If a thick
floor protector is used, you may have to use longer lag bolts.
12. Obtain outside air duct from box in pedestal kit marked FA P21B.
13. Slip the duct down through 4-1/4" hole until face of outside air duct with screen wire, contacts bottom of pedestal.
14. Secure outside air duct to the inside bottom of pedestal using four (4) #10x1 screws provided. (See Figure 3A).
15. Set heater back onto stand and resecure using screws.
16.
NOTE: If home is underpinned, you must duct through underpin as shown. (See Figure 13B).
Figure 13A
OUTSIDE AIR DUCT
(4) 3/8" x 1-1/2"
FLOOR PROTECTOR PAD
UNDER SIDE OF MOBILE HOME FLOOR
PEDESTAL
(4) #10x1
OUTSIDE AIR DUCT THROUGH FLOOR WHEN
MOBILE HOME IS NOT UNDERPINNED.
DETERMINING THE CHIMNEY
1. Suspend a plumb bob from ceiling above unit so that weight
is hanging in the center of flue exit. (A small weight on a
string will serve as a plumb bob). Mark ceiling where
string is suspended to locate center of chimney hole.
2. After locating center of hole, install ceiling support box,
chimney, flashing, and rain cap.
CAUTION- Refer to chimney manufacturers instructions
for assembly and disassembly of chimney parts. Be sure to
follow chimney instructions for proper clearances to
combustible and proper air spacing required.
3. Add additional pipe until both of the following are met:
(a) Chimney pipe is 3’ higher than roof at point where it
penetrates the roof. (See Figure 4).
(b) Chimney pipe height is at least 2’ higher than any part of
roof within 10’ of the chimney. (See Figure 5).
4. Next, install a New Buck Corporation Chimney Connector
to the flue of heater. (See Figure 4).
5. Using “Type DVL” double wall chimney connector, connect
the heater to the chimney by following Dura-Vent
installation instructions exactly.
CEILING
SIMPSON DURA-
VENT TYPE “DP”
CHIMNEY
SIMPSON DURA-
VENT TYPE “DVL”
DOUBLE WALL
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
FIGURE 4
Figure 13B
OUTSIDE AIR DUCT THROUGH
UNDERPINNED.
ROOF
SIMPSON
DURA-VENT
SQUARE SUPPORT BOX
NEW BUCK CORP.
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
Page 22
Page 25
2FT.
RAIN CAP
STORM COLLAR
2FT.
RAIN CAP
STORM COLLAR
3 FT.
TYPICAL
FLASHING
NEW BUCK
CORP.
FIRESTOP
RADIATION
SHIELD
FLASHING
NEW BUCK CORP.
FIRESTOP RADIATION
SHIELD
20 FT.
MAX.
TYPICAL
FIGURE 5
FINAL CHECK
1. Recheck specified clearances.
2. Remove all foreign material from firebox area.
3. Open primary air draft and damper bypass.
4. Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
5. Place crumpled pieces of newspaper in stove. Light it and close door. Ensure that stove draws properly
through primary draft.
6. Check for smoke leaks around door.
7. Open door and check for smoke escaping from front of stove. Smoking usually indicates defective or poorly
positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting newspaper and
holding it near open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats up, a proper draft can usually
be obtained.
If a thorough review of Troubleshooting Guide in manual does not reveal problem, contact your dealer for
assistance.
NOTE: The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during first two or three
firings. You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build first fires. This is
normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases, these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a window
near the unit will allow these fumes to escape. DO NOT build a large, roaring fire until this curing is complete or
the heater finish may be damaged.
Page 23
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SECTION V
PRE-FAB INSERT INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS
This room heater is listed by Warnock-Hersey Laboratories for installation into the following Zero-Clearance
Cabinet Models. These are:
NOTE: A preway unit has to use insert trim panels.
Other models of those brands may also be acceptable for installation of the Model 20 unit into them. However,
factory approval from New Buck Corporation and Warnock-Hersey Laboratories is required prior to installation.
Installation must conform to New Buck Corporation installation instructions or addendums.
INSTALLATION(Pre-Fab Fireplace Insert)
FIGURE 1 PRE-FAB FIREPLACE INSERT
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
INSTALLATION PREPARATION
Pre-Fab Fireplace
1. Relocate furniture and other materials away from front of fireplace to allow free access to fireplace.
2. Cover hearth and adjacent floor areas with drop cloth to protect from soiling or marring surface.
3. Remove existing fireplace damper plate/damper rod assembly.
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4. Thoroughly clean fireplace of ashes and soot.
5. Check chimney and smoke chamber for excessive buildup of creosote or soot. Also, check for obstructions,
such as birds nest. If chimney is excessively dirty, clean it or have someone clean it professionally before
installing or using room heater.
6. The Firebrick, Ash Lip, Smoke Baffle and Smoke Shelf may also be removed if necessary to provide room for
the Model 20.
CAUTION: Any parts removed from the Pre-Fab Fireplace must be stored inside unit or given to
homeowner for re-installation should the Model 20 be removed.
Heater Preparation
1. Inspect unit for any obvious physical damage.
2. Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
3. Check primary air draft control to ensure that it operates freely.
4. Check operations of damper control to ensure that it will open and close properly.
Heater Installation
1. There are three listed and tested methods of installation of the Model 20 heater into the specified Pre-Fab
Models.
A. 6” Increaser
1. The preferred method is to use an increaser made of 24 ga. (minimum) stainless steel to go from 6”
inside diameter to exact diameter of fireplace throat/chimney. (See Figure 2).
2. Position increaser into throat/chimney of the Pre-Fab Cabinet at a height slightly higher than Model 20
will be after installation (22” + above Pre-Fab heater supports). NOTE: The increaser may be a two part
slip connector type if desired.
B. Ceramic Blanket
1. The second method is to use a 6” stainless steel connector (rigid or flex) and a ceramic blanket
(available from your dealer). (See Figure 3).
2. Cut connector at least 18” long and tightly wrap upper portion of connector with ceramic blanket to
almost the size of fireplace throat/chimney.
3. Insert connector into fireplace throat/chimney and use additional ceramic insulation and tightly pack
around connector and throat/chimney at a height slightly higher than the Model 20 will be after
installation (22” + above Pre-Fab heater supports). NOTE: The increaser may be a two part size
connector type if desired.
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MINIMUM CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES
FIGURE 2
6” FLEX PIPE OR ADJUSTABLE
ELBOW
FIGURE 3
C. Sealing Trim Kit
1. This third method of installation is to use the masonry fireplace trim kit to seal the stove to the Pre-Fab
fireplace.
CAUTION Although this method is a tested and approved method, some codes may not allow this type
installation. Be sure to check local codes for approval prior to making this type of installation.
INCREASER
PACK TIGHT WITH CERAMIC
WOOL (DO NOT USE GLASS
WOOL).
Page 26
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2. To complete this installation, follow the basic masonry fireplace trim kit installation instructions
except:
The trim kit may have to be cut down in size so as not to block any cooling vents/chambers of the Pre Fab Fireplace.
3. To complete methods 1 and 2:
Position heater into the Pre-Fab Fireplace and center flue exit under connector.
4. Slide connector (or slip connector) down into flue exit of heater approximately 3/8”, check that damper
operates without hitting connector. Now, seal connector to heater (and fireplace throat if method #1 is
used) using refractory cement.
CAUTION! Do not loosen ceramic blanket.
5. CAUTION! Crimped end of connector must be placed into heater throat.
6. Check installation minimum clearances and install an approved heater extension or floor protector to
meet at least the minimum clearances.
This heater is now ready for use. Please read heater operation Section VII of this manual before burning a fire in the
heater.
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SECTION VI
WOOD HEATER SAFETY
Certain safety hazards are inherent in any wood heater installation. You should be aware of these so that a safe and
proper installation can be made.
1. FAULTY CHIMNEY: An older masonry chimney should be thoroughly checked to be sure there are no
holes or weak spots which could allow sparks or hot gases to escape.
2. HEAT CONDUCTION: Placing combustible materials too close to a heater or chimney can be a fire
hazard.
By keeping these particular hazards in mind as you install and use your room heater you can ensure a safe,
reliable installation.
NOTE: When burning any unit or appliance that combusts fuel for heat, such as coal, oil, wood or natural
and (L.P.) liquid petroleum gas. We highly recommend the use of smoke and carbon monoxide detectors in
your home.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
For your protection, read and follow these safety precautions closely.
CAUTION: NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar
liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the stove when it is in use.
All fluids of this type give off volatile fumes and can and WILL EXPLODE!Don’t take a chance with the safety
of your home and family.
WARNING: Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away from stove. Contact may cause
skin burns.
1. Use a spark arresting shield (3/8” mesh) on top of chimney. Check monthly as this is a code requirement
in some areas.
2. Use smoke detectors around heater as well as in sleeping areas.
3. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for Class “A” fires near heater.
4. Check with your insurance company to be sure your policy covers installation and use of a wood fired
room heater.
5. Creosote-Formation and Need for Removal: When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in
relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue
lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once a month during heating season to determine if a
creosote buildup has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce risk of a chimney fire.
CAUTION: Never remove ashes from your heater with blower running.
6. Relocate furniture and any other combustibles away from the heater.
7. Store firewood at a safe distance from heater.
8. Disposal of Ashes: Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed
container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on ground, well away from all
combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise
locally dispersed, they should be retained in closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Ashes can ignite up to 72 hours after removal.
9. Always exercise caution when using your heater. Be particularly careful when there are children around
an operating heater.
Page 28
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SECTION VII
OPERATION
This section of manual is to help you get the maximum efficiency and maximum smoke (particulate) reduction from your
heater. If you should experience any difficulty or have any questions concerning your heater, contact your dealer for
assistance. NOTE: The manufacturer recommends that for maximum performance burn natal seasoned hard wood.
Build a fire for maximum efficiency. This model burns wood and extracts heat so efficiently, a large fire is not necessary.
A large fire not only wastes energy, it usually results in home being too warm for comfort.
The following steps will serve as a guide for operating your stove.
BUILDING A FIRE:
1. Open door.
2. While looking inside the firebox, operate damper bypass door in and out observing movement. If door does not operate
freely and seal to door opening, then door has jumped out of its track during shipping and/or installation.
3. Open primary air control on right side of stove. Also, open outside air control if so equipped (mobile home
installations).
4. Twist two pieces of non-colored newspaper into a roll and place them on floor of firebox.
NOTE: Do not use grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly on inner bottom of fire box.
5. The Model 20 is not designed for use of grates and irons or other methods of supporting fuel.
6. Lay several pieces of dry kindling on top of newspaper.
7. Place three or four small pieces of firewood, 2-3” in diameter, on top of kindling.
8. Light newspaper in front, close and latch door. Don’t leave fire unattended at this point. The draft system of heater
should start quickly. It may be necessary to preheat chimney to get draft started. To do this, open door and add
newspaper to top rear of wood. Light or let this paper ignite and allow to burn while holding door slightly cracked.
Once draft has started, close and lock door.
9. NOTE: After embers and a coal bed have been established, load heater with seasoned natural hard wood,
placing it front to rear.
NOTE: If blower is being used on the Model 20 Room Heater, it is equipped with a automatic thermostat.
When stove gets hot enough, thermostat will activate room air blower. (For operation of switch
and blower, See Page 36)
NOTE: When refueling or removing ashes turn “OFF” room air blower. Be sure to turn room air blower back on
when finished.
NOTE: Do not run power cord underneath heater or in walk way or heavy traffic areas.
NOTE: THE FUELING DOOR MUST REMAIN CLOSED DURING OPERATION.
MODEL 20 OPERATION
A. Low Burn Rate: Set primary air control to low setting. Set the Auto-Off-Manual switch to Auto position. Wood
Loading—During refueling, open (pull-out) bypass damper to allow smoke in firebox to escape, open door and
add wood. Immediately close door and bypass damper. Reopen door 1/4” for one (1) minute to charge wood.
Close and latch door. After most of wood is burned, if you are not planning on reloading immediately, it may be
necessary to open bypass damper and door to rake wood and coals into a pile near front center of firebox. (Be
certain wood chunks are pulled out of rear corners.) Close door and bypass damper. This step will assure
continued combustion and thorough burning of wood.
B. Medium—Low Burn Rate: Set primary air control to medium-low setting. Set Auto-Off-Manual switch to
Auto position. Wood Loading—During refueling, open bypass damper, open door and add wood. Immediately
close door and bypass damper. Open primary air control wide open for five minutes to charge wood. Reset
primary air control to med-low setting. After most of wood is burned, if you are not planning on reloading
immediately, it may be necessary to open bypass damper and door to rake wood and coals into a pile near front
center of firebox. (Be certain wood chunks are pulled out of rear corners.) Close door and bypass damper. This
step will assure continued combustion and thorough burning of wood.
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C. Medium—High Burn Rate: Set the primary air control wide open. Set the Auto-Off-Manual switch to
Auto position. Wood Loading—During refueling, open bypass damper, open door and add wood.
Immediately close door and bypass damper. Open primary air control wide open for five minutes to
charge wood. Reset primary air control to med-high setting. After most of wood is burned, if you are not
planning on reloading immediately, it may be necessary to open bypass damper and door to rake wood
and coals into a pile near front center of firebox. (Be certain wood chunks are pulled out of rear corners.)
Close door and bypass damper. This step will assure continued combustion
and thorough burning of wood.
D. High-Burn Rate—Set primary air control wide open. Set the Auto-Off-Manual switch to the Auto
position. Wood Loading—During refueling, open the bypass damper, open the door, and add wood.
Immediately close door and bypass damper.
NOTE: To select primary air setting, center rod where it exits the air vent opening and align to the marked settings
on the heater.
You will have to experiment with the rate until you find the particular setting for heating your home. Chimney
drafts, tightness of the house doors and windows, and atmospheric conditions all influence which setting you must
have so it may take you several firings to learn the setting necessary for your installation.
Although the catalytic heaters decrease ash residue, routine removal of excess ash is still necessary.
High
Mid. High
Mid. Low
Low
Align where handle rod exits face of air vent
Page 30
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OPERATING AND SAFETY HINTS:
When preparing to refuel heater, open bypass damper (taking the heater out of catalytic mode) and wait for smoke
to clear out of firebox before opening the door.
Burn only natural seasoned hard wood in your catalytic heater. You should not burn trash or garbage, artificial or
paper logs, gift wrapping, treated or painted wood, nor should you start a fire with lighter fluid or chemical starter.
These and other compositions may contain lead, zinc or other elements that can coat catalyst and reduce its
activity.
Manufacturer recommendation for peak performance and long catalyst life is to burn natural seasoned
hardwood (wood dried 6-12 month) and place wood from front to back position in the heater.
NOTE: Soft woods such as pine, create more creosote, clogging of chimney and produce a less efficient
burn performance.
GUIDE TO THE DIFFERENT BURNING QUALITIES OF WOOD
Type of Ease of Coaling Amount of
Wood Starting Qualities Sparks
Apple Poor Excellent Few
Ash Fair Good Few
Beech Poor Good Few
Birch Good Excellent Moderate
Cherry Poor Excellent Few
Cedar Excellent Poor Many
Elm Fair Good Very Few
Hemlock Good Low Many
Hickory Fair Excellent Moderate
Locust Poor Excellent Very Few
Maple Poor Excellent Few
Oak Poor Excellent Few
Pine Excellent Poor Moderate
The Main Audubon Society recently charted the heat produced by a wood fire. They noted that heat
produced by a wood fire varies greatly with kind of wood burned. Beech is considered best wood for a
fire. A cord of well-seasoned Beech will produce as much heat as 169 gallons of fuel oil; Sugar Maple
and Red Oak produce as much heat as 166 gallons of fuel oil; followed by White Ash 154; American Elm
130; White Birch 124; and White Pine 94.
HELPFUL HINTS
CURING THE PAINT ON YOUR HEATER: During the first several firings, burn small fires to cure paint and
to prevent damage to finish. It is a good idea to flip toggle switch to “Manual” position during these first firings so
blower will run continuously. This will allow paint to cure at a slower rate and creates a better overall finish.
CAUTION: Never remove ashes from your heater with blower running.
TIPS ON FIRE BURNING
GREEN WOOD vs. NATURAL SEASONED HARD WOOD-Green wood has a high moisture content and
therefore requires a hotter ignition temperature. Natural seasoned hard wood cut at least one year before use allows
for a quicker, prolonged burn and more complete combustion.
SPLIT WOOD vs. ROUND WOOD-Split wood burns easier and more rapidly, whether it’s seasoned or green. If
used after starting a fire, it should be packed tightly to achieve a longer burn.
Round wood burns longer, but requires more effort to start. Inserting a round piece over a bed of red coals with
damper and drafts open will help it catch fire. Round wood should be used to accomplish an all-night burn.
Page 31
Page 34
SECTION VIII
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE / PARTS REPLACEMENT
Check Chimney
A. The chimney should be cleaned as necessary to remove creosote, soot, leaves, birds nests, etc. (Refer to Page
27, #5 Creosote Formation.)
B. A neglected chimney can eventually cause a draw restriction or can ignite and burn hot enough to cause
damage to chimney.
C. For proper inspection chimney should be cleaned.
D. A chimney cap should be installed to prevent moisture from entering chimney, to prevent sparks and burning
materials from escaping chimney and to keep birds and foreign materials from entering.
NOTE: Some areas may require an approved spark arrestor.
CLEANING THE HEATER
A. The heater should not be cleaned with any type of detergent as most all detergents have an oil base and cannot
be painted over.
B. The heater should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper or steel wool, then repainted or touched up with high
temperature paint.
C. If the heater is located in a moist or damp location, check thoroughly for signs of condensation during times
when heater is not in use.
D. When heating season is over, heater should be cleaned out completely with a wire brush or cloth to help
eliminate ash and burned wood smell.
CARE OF GLASS DOOR: The glass door on your heater permits you to enjoy the beauty of the fire while
retaining efficiency of your heater. Although brand of glass used in heater door has well established and
recognized heat resistant and strength characteristics, it can be broken through improper care. To achieve
maximum utility and safety of your glass door, we advise that you observe following use and safety tips:
1. Inspect glass regularly for cracks or breaks. If you detect a crack or break extinguish fire immediately and
return door to your dealer for glass replacement before further use.
2. Do not slam heater door or otherwise impact glass. When closing door, make sure that no logs or other
objects protrude to impact against glass.
3. Do not clean glass with materials which may scratch it (such as steel wool) or otherwise damage glass.
Scratches on the glass can develop into cracks or breaks.
The glass can be cleaned with a commercial oven cleaner, providing it does not contain abrasives. A build-up on
glass that has been there for a considerable length of time can be burned off with a propane torch.
CATALYTIC INSPECTION
Catalytic combustors should be visually inspected at least three times during heating season to determine if
physical degradation has occurred.
Preferred Inspection Method: The easiest method to determine condition of catalysts is to observe glow of
catalyst after ignition (med-low firing or hotter). You can observe the catalysts by leaning down and looking up
through the door glass.
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a. Properly functioning catalysts will be exhibiting a uniform glow from one end to other (indicating
ignition).
b. Physically degraded catalysts will have cold places (areas not igniting) where plugging, crumbling or
other degradation has occurred. If this occurs, monitor probe temperature will not increase at a normal
rate. For further inspection it will be necessary to go by disassembly method as follows:
Disassembly Inspection Method: For thorough catalysts inspection, removal of catalyst housing is necessary
(cold heater only).
a. Spread a drop cloth in front of heater.
b. Open door and clean out any ash.
c. Open bypass door to give access to two rear mounting bolts.
d. Using 9/16” wrench or 9/16” socket, loosen four bolts and remove catalyst housing (drop down) and place
in a suitable inspection area (it may be necessary to use penetrating oil if nuts and bolts have seized).
e. Inspect top and bottom side of catalysts for plugging, crumbling and other physical degradation.
1. If a problem exists, refer to Troubleshooting section of manual for possible cause of problem and
solution (including replacement if necessary).
2. Reassemble if catalysts are okay being sure stainless steel heat reflector is positioned back in its
original position and bolt housing and heat reflector securely back in place.
The catalysts in your stove are designed for many years of use. If after several years of use, efficiency of
stove decreases or if a notable increase in amount of smoke is observed, catalysts may need to be replaced. See
Catalyst Warranty prior to replacement.
1. Spread a drop cloth in front of stove.
2. Open door and clean out any ash.
3. Open bypass door to give access to two rear mounting bolts.
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4. Using penetrating oil, generously lubricate four (4) bolt threads holding catalyst housing in place. Allow to
penetrate.
5. Using a 9/16” wrench or 9/16” socket, loosen four (4) bolts and remove catalyst housing (drop down) and
place in a suitable work area.
6. Using needle nose pliers, grasp front edge of stainless steel “can” which houses a catalytic element and pull
upward.
7. Using a small putty knife or scraper, remove any gasket that may have adhered to catalyst housing.
8. Obtain new catalysts and wrap the stainless steel “can” with interam gasket and tape ends together using
scotch tape or masking tape.
9. Insert new catalysts into catalytic housing and push down until they are seated on top of stainless steel wire
mesh supports.
10. Reinstall catalyst housing into stove and secure in place with bolts.
11. The stove is now ready for use.
BOLT HOLES
2” X 2” X 7” STANDARD 25 CELL
LONG LIFE CATALYSTS
1/16” THICK INTERAM GASKET AND
STAINLESS STEEL CAN (2 EA.)
1/16” THICK INTERAM GASKET
(LAP ENDS 1/4” AND TAPE)
APPLY 1/16”X 1/2” FIBERGLASS
GASKET COMPLETELY AROUND
SEALING LIP.
CATALYST HOUSING
(STEEL OR CAST IRON)
FRONT
DOOR GASKET REPLACEMENT (Cold Heater)
To replace deteriorated gaskets, following steps must be taken to ensure proper installation of gaskets.
1. Obtain proper gaskets and silicone glue from your local dealer.
2. Using pliers, remove any worn and deteriorated gaskets.
3. Using a scraper, wire brush and sandpaper or steel wool, clean glue and gasket residue from door frame.
4. Measure and cut gaskets to length. Care should be taken not to stretch gaskets. What you want is a full and
loose gasket weave after attachment to framing.
5. Obtain silicone glue and run a 3/16” bead inside door frame.
6. Obtain gasket (s) and place in gasket channel areas. Use a technique which assures that gasket is applied in a
loose like manner. DO NOT STRETCH GASKETS.
7. After gasket (s) are applied to glue, use your finger and go over all gasket gently pressing gasket to the
channel. Use same pressure against gasket so that final result is an evenly applied gasket.
8. Leave door open and allow at least one hour for glue to dry.
9. Once gaskets are checked, heater is ready for use.
10. This should be done annually. Allowing gaskets to deteriorate can cause over-firing and shorten burn time.
ROPE GASKET
SILICONE
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OPERATION OF SWITCH
With Power Cord Plugged Into 115V AC Outlet.
Do not run power cord underneath heater or in walk way or heavy traffic areas.
(A) For Auto position push in top of switch. When room heater becomes warm enough
Room Air Blower will come on and stay on until your room heater falls below
activating temperature for thermostat.
(B) For Off position place switch in middle position.
(C) For Manual position push in on bottom of switch. This will allow your Room
Air Blower to operate without thermostat being activated. With switch placed in
this position, Room Air Blower will continue to operate until it is Manually shut Off.
WIRING SCHEMATIC
(Changes refer to page 34 in your owners manual: Due to the Auto-Off-Manual switch
replacing the Rheostat.)
NOTE: When ordering replacement parts for your Model 20/ZC20 Room
Heater, be sure to have the serial number available to insure that you receive
the correct parts.
NOTE: When refueling or removing ashes turn “OFF” room air blower. Be sure to turn
room air blower back on when finished.
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SECTION IX
CATALYTIC TROUBLESHOOTING
CONTENTS
Definitions
Possible Problems
Plugging
Extreme Temperatures
Flow Restrictions
Creosote Build-up
Chemical Deactivation
Excessive Handling
Condensation in Chimney
Backpuffing
Non-uniform flow
Troubleshooting
Heater Related Problems
1. Sluggish Heater Performance
2. Drop in Overall Efficiency
3. High Fuel Consumption
4. Backpuffing
5. Smoke Rollout When Heater Door Is Opened
6. Low Catalytic Temperature
7. Creosote Running From Draft Inlet Openings
Chimney-Related Problems
1. Creosote Accumulation
2. Tar and Liquid Creosote Leaking from Metal Flue Joints
3. Heavy Concentration of Smoke Leaving Chimney
4. Rusted or Corroded Flue Parts
5. Odor
6. Poor-Drafting Chimney
Combustor-Related Problems
1. Plugging
2. Catalyst Peeling
3. Chemical Deactivation
4. Catalyst Masking
5. Substrate Cracking-Thermal
6. Substrate Cracking-Mechanical
7. Substrate Crumbling
8. Color Variations
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DEFINITIONS
AIRTIGHT HEATER—In an airtight heater, all air enters in through inlets. Generally, non-airtight stoves are not
as efficient and their level of heat output is less controllable than that of an airtight.
BURN CYCLE—Time span between refueling in which wood is reduced to a bed of hot coals.
BYPASS—Movable door inside a woodstove that is opened when stove door is opened to give a path of least
resistance to smoke to prevent roll-out.
CREOSOTE—Condensed wood-gas vapor.
DOWNSTREAM TEMPERATURE—Outlet temperature of combustor or temperature of gas leaving
combustor from chimney side or face.
DRAFT—Amount of vacuum created by buoyant hot air in chimney. Draft pulls in oxygen for combustion
process and pulls out exhaust gases.
FIREBRICK— Brick capable of withstanding high temperatures. Used in furnaces, kilns and stoves. Used to
mean only “hard” or “dense” firebrick as distinguished from “soft” or “insulating” firebrick.
FIRING RATE—Rate at which fuel is burned in a heater.
FLUE COLLAR—The part of a stove to which chimney connector or chimney attaches.
GLOW-PLUG EFFECT—When a combustor is at temperatures above 1400o F (760o C) and periodically causes
pockets of wood gas in firebox to ignite spontaneously.
GREEN WOOD—Non-dried, freshly cut wood from a live tree.
IGNITION TEMPERATURE—The minimum temperature of a flammable mixture of gases at which it can
spontaneously ignite.
LIGHT-OFF—Activation temperature of combustor catalyst.
NOBLE-METAL CATALYST—A catalyst is a substance that can accelerate a chemical process without being
consumed by it. A noble-metal catalyst is one made of a precious metal or metals. (In the combustor, platinum and
palladium are used because they are stable under high heat conditions.)
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POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
Problems encountered with operation of catalytic-combustor equipped wood heaters are usually the same as those
experienced in operation of traditional wood heaters. Our experience has shown that adoption of good operating
practices will eliminate most of these problems. In addition, it should be noted that problems with catalytic
combustors are rare. Fewer than 1 percent of combustors are returned for any reason. Nonetheless, installers and
retailers should make themselves aware of nature, cause and solution to possible problems so as to serve their
customers better.
Plugging-Plugging can occur if combustor is operated improperly. It may occur if wrong materials are burned.
Evidence of these types of plugging is a coating of black soot, creosote or fly ash on combustor. Burning materials
that produce large flakes of char, such as Christmas wrapping paper or cardboard, can plug enough cells to cause
smoke spillage.
Extreme Temperature-A combustor becomes extremely hot during operation. Temperatures between 1400o F and
1600o F (760o C - 870o C) are common, but operating temperatures between 1200o F and 1400o F (650o C - 760o C)
are recommended. Most of this heat is transmitted to surrounding heater parts via thermal radiation.
Flow Restrictions-Because combustor is mounted in gas flow stream, it does offer resistance to draft. This
restriction or resistance presents two problems:
If the bypass is not open when fuel-loading door is opened, smoke rollout will occur.
Chimneys that produce marginal draft may prevent operation of a combustor-equipped device. A chimney
that provides, on average, .02” of water draft in low-fire operation would probably not operate with a catalytic
combustor appliance in low-fire mode. In such a case, combustor resistance would offset remaining draft,
resulting in a system that will not draft.
Creosote Build-up-Even though reduction of creosote is one of primary advantages of a combustor-equipped
device, some creosote-forming gases will escape unburned during normal operation. In event combustor ceases to
function, creosote can be expected to accumulate. Consequently, flues and chimneys should be inspected regularly
(every 2-3 months of operation) and any creosote build-up removed. Failure to do this could result in a chimney
fire.
Chemical Deactivation-Deactivation can occur when catalyst is attacked by materials such as compounds of
sulphur, phosphorus or lead and other heavy metals. Burning large quantities of trash, pressure-treated lumber or
painted wood can deactivate catalyst. The operator takes a chance when burning anything other than natural wood.
The catalysts are durable and are not likely to be greatly affected by an occasional mistake, but burning large
quantities of chemical-laden materials will appreciably shorten life of combustor. The catalyst can also be
deactivated when it is coated with excessive creosote, carbon or fly ash. This build-up greatly reduces the amount
of catalyst available to react with the smoke.
Excessive Handling-An older combustor, especially one that is “uncanned”, is susceptible to handling damage.
Stress-relief cracks may develop in service but will not affect performance of combustor if it is not moved or
handled. Handling a unit with these cracks, however, could result in it breaking apart. Excessive handling could
also potentially remove some of catalyst coating.
Condensation In Chimney-The burning that takes place in a combustor converts harmful hydrocarbons and
carbon monoxide to heat, carbon dioxide and water. The additional water produced by this complete burning can
lead to associated problems in the chimney.
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Backpuffing-A hot combustor (above 1400o F) can sometimes act like a glow plug (spontaneous combustion
igniter). Usually wood gas-to-air mixture is either too lean or too rich to form a highly flammable mixture. There
are times when this mixture is just right within firebox during normal burning process. If combustor is running at
or above ignition temperature of mixture, spontaneous combustion will result, causing stove to vent puffs of
smoke.
Non-Uniform Flow-Non-uniform flow causes combustor to heat and cool unevenly and is a result of fuel-loading
configuration. This occurs when flow pattern of fire is concentrated on one side of combustor. This condition
causes thermal stress within ceramic, resulting in cracking.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Operation of any wood heater can create problems. Use of a catalytic-combustor equipped stove will substantially
lessen some of these problems, such as creosote formation, other traditional wood-heater problems may remain.
The following guidelines apply to operation of all wood heaters, with problems related to catalytic heaters
addressed where appropriate.
HEATER RELATED PROBLEMS
Problem
1. Sluggish heater performance
2. Drop in Overall Efficiency
Possible Cause
1. Obstruction in chimney
2. Improperly sealed trim kit
or direct connect kit
3. Manual damper in chimney
is closed
4. Closing bypass or exhaust
damper too soon
5. Wet or unseasoned wood
being burned
6. Too much wood added to
too few coals
7. Dislodged stove parts
8. Poor chimney draft
9. Combustor is plugged
1. Cold, windy weather
2. Burning wet, pitchy or
spongy wood
3. Combustor not in operating
mode
4. Combustor not functioning
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Solution
1. Check for and remove
obstruction
2. Check trim kit gasketing seal
to fireplace and gasket as
necessary to seal unit. Gasket
under stove if needed. Check
seal of direct connect and
correct
3. Open manual damper and
wire shut with stainless steel
wire or remove damper
4. Follow New Buck
instructions for proper firing
procedures
5. Burn dry, natural seasoned
hard wood
6. Add small amounts of wood
to small coal beds. Once a
good bed of coals has been
established more wood can be
added
7. Check all movable heater
parts. Replace if necessary
8. See section in “ChimneyRelated Problems”
9. See section in “CombustorRelated Problems”
1. Weather stripping, caulking,
insulation, storm windows
2. Burn quality wood available
in your area
3. Close bypass or engage
combustor when temperatures
are high enough and
stabilized
4. See “Combustor-Related
Problems”
Page 42
Problem
3. High Fuel Consumption
4. Backpuffing
5. Smoke Rollout When Heater
Door Is Opened
6. Low Catalytic Temperature
Possible Cause
1. Inexperience in catalytic
operation
2. Improper regulation of draft or
inlet air
3. Burning wet, unseasoned
wood or pitchy spongy wood
4. Cold, windy weather
5. Smoke bypassing combustor
6. Bypass stuck out
7. Combustor not engaged
8. Combustor not functioning
1. Gusts of wind
2. Hot combustor
(Above 1400o F)
3. Opening doors in a tightly
constructed house
1. Bypass is closed, or combustor
is in operating position
2. Wind gusts blowing down
chimney
3. Opening heater door too fast
1. Bypass is open
2. Light-off not obtained
3. Fuel charge is spent
4. Gases bypassing combustor
5. Combustor coated with fly ash
or soot
Solution
1. Operate stove with desired
heat output in mind. Do not be
overly concerned with
maintaining light-off
temperatures
2. Close inlet air control as much
as possible to maintain desired
heat output. Check gaskets,
reinstall fiberglass gasketing
around door and glass as
necessary
3. Burn dried natural seasoned
hard wood
4. Weather stripping, caulking,
insulation, storm windows
5. Replace warped stove parts
6. If warped or broken, replace
7. Put combustor in operating
position or close bypass in
stove
8. See “Combustor-Related
Problems”
1. Install chimney cap
2. Avoid burning soft, pitchy
wood or large amounts of
small diameter wood
3. Slowly open and close outside
door
1. Open bypass or place
combustor in bypass position
before opening stove door
2. Install wind-resistant chimney
cap
3. Wait a few seconds after
opening bypass before opening
heater door to give smoke a
chance to exit heater
1. Once light-off temperatures
have been reached and unit is
stabilized, close bypass
2. Follow manufacturer’s
operating instructions
3. Refuel as necessary for
combustor operation
4. Check parts, particularly
bypass. Replace if warped.
5. See section on “CombustorRelated Problems—Catalyst
Masking”
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Problem
7. Creosote Running From Draft
Inlet Openings
CHIMNEY-RELATED
PROBLEMS
1. Creosote Accumulation
2. Tar and Liquid Creosote
Leaking From Metal Flue
Joints
Possible Cause
6. Heater dampered down too
much
7. Combustor not functioning
1. Burning wet, pitchy woods
2. Burning too much wood in
one load
3. Cool heater walls
1. Leading bypass baffle plate
2. Types and amounts of wood
burned
3. Poorly insulated chimney
4. Combustor not functioning
1. No chimney cap on
chimney
2. Metal flue assembled
improperly
3. Normal increase in moisture
due to catalytic burning
(Condenses on cool
chimney walls)
Solution
6. Ensure that proper air
mixture and draft are
available for wood pyrolysis
to continue
7. See section on “CombustorRelated Problems”
1. Burn dried, natural seasoned
hard wood
2. Burn reasonably sized loads
so the combustor has a
chance to burn the wood
gases that are produced
3. Keep a good bed of coals in
the heater
1. Replace any damaged parts
2. Try not to burn pitchy wood
Don’t overstuff the firebox,
burn pieces of wood with an
approximate diameter of 6”
or larger
3. Replace single-walled metal
chimneys with double-walled
insulated chimney sections
(Meet local codes). Install a
chimney liner in a masonry
chimney. (Meet local codes)
In new installations utilize an
interior chimney rather than
an exterior one
4. See section on “CombustorRelated Problems”
1. Install a chimney cap
2. Top flue sections should be
inserted into lower flue
sections
3. Replace single-walled
chimneys with doubledwalled insulated sections
(Meet local codes). Install
chimney liner in masonry
chimney (Meet local codes).
In new installations try to
utilize an interior chimney
rather than an exterior one
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Problem
3. Heavy Concentration of
Smoke Leaving Chimney
4. Rusted or Corroded Flue Parts
5. Odor-Both Inside and Outside
The Home
6. Poor-Drafting Chimney
Possible Cause
1. Water vapor. (On cold, still
days water vapor may be
mistaken for smoke. The
difference is that water vapor
appears white and will tend
to rise vertically and
dissipate rapidly while
smoke is usually dark or
bluish brown and will drift
down and settle in low areas
near the ground before
slowly dissipating)
2. Wet, pitchy wood is being
burned
3. Combustor not functioning
4. Bypass warped or in open
position
1. Added moisture from
efficient burning
2. Overheated flue parts due to
a chimney fire
3. Age. Failure due to normal
use
1. Bypass is open
2. Smoke is leaking around
combustor
3 Backpuffs due to wind or hot
combustor
4. Combustor not functioning
5. Insert trim panels or direct
connect kit not sealed
1. Improper chimney height
2. Wrong flue size being used.
Ex. - using a 10” flue on an 8” flue collar
3. Cooler temperatures caused
by external chimney
4. Massive stone or masonry
chimney
Solution
1. Water vapor is normal and
should be of little concern
2. Burn dried, natural seasoned
hard wood
3. See section on CombustorRelated Problems
4. Replace warped bypass.
Close bypass.
1. Replace worn-out parts with
corrosion-resistant parts or
materials
2. Same as #1 above. Have
chimney inspected every 2-3
months of operation for
creosote build-up
3. Replace worn-out parts with
corrosion-resistant
replacements
1. Close bypass
2. Check for warped or
damaged parts. Replace if
necessary
3. See “Backpuffing”
4. See “Combustor-Related
Problems”
5. Check seal and regasket as
necessary
1. Extend height of chimney
(Meet Codes)
2. Use properly sized flue.
Install topper with 8”
chimney cap to hold heat in
3. Insulate chimney or build
chimney higher. In new
installations, try to utilize
internal chimney
2 FT. MINIMUM HEIGHT ABOVE THE
ROOF WITHIN 10 FT. HORIZONTALLY
CHIMNEY “10 FT.” RULE (MINIMUM HEIGHTS)
GREATER
THAN
10 FT.
10 FT.
2 FT.
3 FT.
MASONRY
CHIMNEY
Stack wood in criss-cross
pattern under a shelter to allow
air flow to dry wood and to keep
wood from rain. Green wood
may have 50-60% moisture
content. Wood seasoned outside
uncovered may have 40%
moisture content. Wood
properly seasoned in a covered
environment will have less than
20% moisture content.
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COMBUSTOR-RELATED PROBLEMS
Problem
1. Plugging
2. Catalyst Peeling
3. Chemical Deactivation
4. Catalyst Masking—a catalyst
with a layer of fly ash or soot
which prevents catalytic
activity
5. Substrate Cracking-Thermal
Possible Cause
1. Burning materials that
produce a lot of char and fly
ash
2. Burning wet, pitchy wood or
burning large loads of small
diameter wood with the
combustor in the operating
position without light-off
taking place
3. Combustor not functioning.
If proper burning procedures
have been followed to no
avail, the combustor is not
functioning
1. Extreme temperatures (above
1800o F or 1000o C) at
combustor surface can cause
the catalyst to peel. Overfiring and flame
impingement are primary
causes
1. Burning large quantities of
trash, pressure treated
lumber or painted wood
1. Not maintaining light-off
temperatures
2. Burning coal causes a sulfur
based compound to coat the
catalyst
1. Normal operation, as long as
combustor remains intact
Solution
1. Do not burn materials such
as garbage, gift wrap or
cardboard
2. Burn dried, natural seasoned
hard wood. Don’t place the
combustor in the operating
position until temperatures
are high enough to initiate
light-off. It may be possible
to burn the accumulated soot
or creosote off by putting
the combustor in a partially
open-partially closed
position after a “hot” fire
has been started.
3. Replace combustor
1. If peeling is severe, remove
and replace combustor.
Avoid extreme temperatures
1. Burn quality wood available
in your area. If you decide
the catalyst has been
deactivated, replace
combustor
1. Place combustor in a
partially closed position
after a “hot” fire has been
started to burn soot off.
2. Revert to burning wood and
fire the combustor at
elevated temperatures for a
period of 1 hour. (Five 20
minute high-fire startups
would do it)
1. If cracking causes blockage
of exhaust gases, replace
combustor
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Problem
6. Substrate Cracking—
Mechanical
7. Substrate Crumbling
8. Color Variations
COLORED-GLASS
PROBLEMS
1. Glass Darkens
Possible Cause
1. Mishandling or abuse
1. Extreme thermal shock
2. High draft
1. Variation in color from
combustor to combustor or
within a combustor can
occur (new combustors)
1. Buildup Creosote on Glass
Solution
1. Handle with care
1. Combustor being
continually over fired.
Reduce burn rate.
2. Do not exceed .06” of water
draft. Install a manual
damper and draft gauge, or a
barometric damper with free
-standing units
1. These color variations are
normal and do not affect
combustor performance
1. Cleaning Glass. The glass
inside will become colored
during use from creosote
buildup. The best way to
clean glass, COLD STOVE,
is to let creosote buildup
harden. Then use razor blade
to scarp of buildup of
creosote. Wash glass using
soppy water or glass cleaner.
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Zero Clearance Cabinet
Model ZC20
For use with Fireplace Model 20 only
FEATURES
PREPARATION INSTALLATION
OPERATION MAINTENANCE SAFETY
Contact your insurance company for coverage and installation inspection
SAFETY NOTICE
If this cabinet and intended fireplace are not properly installed, a house fire may result. For
your safety, follow installation directions. Contact local building or fire officials about
restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
WARNING
THIS IS NOT A FIREPLACE
Do not attempt to build a fire in this product. It has been designed and safety tested for
use only with Model 20 manufactured by New Buck Corporation. Read and follow
installation and operating instructions for this model. Do not remove or cover this label.
Model Part Description/Part #
ZC20 Zero clearance cabinet assembly with Model 20
fireplace installed
UL Listed and factory approved Chimney Systems
Description
Simpson Dura Vent - 6” 2100o HT Type “DP” Chimney
Security - 6” “ASHT” High Temp Chimney
Selkirk Metal Bestos - 6” Model SSII Type HT Chimney
Metal Fab - 6” 2100o HT Chimney
CAUTION:Read through all of these instructions carefully. Follow approved Chimney Manufacturer’s
Installation exactly. Failure to install the Cabinet Fireplace, Stove and Chimney as described in the instructions
will void manufacturer’s warranty and may have an effect on your Homeowner’s Insurance. A major cause of
chimney related fires is failure to maintain required clearances (air spaces) to combustible materials. It is of utmost
importance that these parts be installed only in accordance with these instructions.
The Zero-Clearance cabinet and the Model 20 (hereafter referred to as the ZC20) is designed for installation in a
family dwelling, where minimum clearance is desired.
INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS
The following precautions are mandatory for a safe installation:
A. Compliance with local building codes and regulations is mandatory.
B. Be careful not to damage unit in handling and unpacking component parts and accessories.
C. A UL Listed and Approved Chimney System is to be used and vented to outside of the building. See chimney
list above.
D. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above the highest point where it penetrates the roof (3’ above a
flat roof or up to 2 1/2 pitch roof), and chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of
building within 10’ of chimney. The minimum height is 12’. A 2” clearance must be maintained between
chimney and any combustible materials at all points.
E. A rain cap must be used to terminate chimney to prevent down-draft.
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F. DO NOT build a fire directly inside the ZC Cabinet. It is designed solely for housing Model 20 Stove.
G. WARNING: This fireplace has not been tested for use with a chase above roof.
H. Do not connect this unit to a chimney serving another appliance.
SELECTING A CHIMNEY INSTALLATION AND LOCATION
There are two basic types of chimney installations possible with the ZC20; straight up through a ceiling and chase
installation, either outside or inside. These are normally used as follows:
CHIMNEY CAP
STORM COLLAR
FLASHING
CHIMNEY PIPE
METAL FIRE STOP
METAL FIRE STOP
CHIMNEY CAP
CHIMNEY PIPE
STORM COLLAR
FLASHING
METAL FIRE STOP
Z.C. CABINET
FIGURE 1 THROUGH CEILING
CHIMNEY CAP
CHIMNEY PIPE
STORM COLLAR
FLASHING
ELBOWS
ADJUSTABLE CHIMNEY
METAL FIRE STOP
Z.C. CABINET
FIGURE 3 OFFSET TO CLEAR OBSTRUCTION
Z.C. CABINET
FIGURE 2 THROUGH CATHEDRAL
CEILING
CAUTION: Refer to chimney
manufacturers instructions for assembly and
disassembly of chimney parts. Be sure to follow
chimney instructions for proper clearances to
combustibles and proper air spacing required.
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Corner clearances request
NOTE: Chase Installation: (See Figure 3). A chase is an enclosure built specifically to house a chimney. The
interior of a chase is open from ZC20 to roof, eliminating need to cut through ceilings and roof. Normally, a chase
is built outside and against exterior wall of a home. A hole is cut through wall and the ZC20 is located in bottom of
chase, with front of unit flush with interior wall. Chases are commonly veneered on outside with brick, stone or
wood to give appearance of a conventional fireplace flue. Occasionally, they are built inside and boxed in, similar
to a stairwell. When making a chase installation, it is important to read chimney manufacturer’s instructions prior
to building, as there are specific requirements for bracing a free-standing flue and must be planned for. There are
also occasions where offsets are used within a chase to accommodate unusual building designs or to locate ZC20
further into a room.
FRAMING CONSTRUCTION AND INSTALLATION
Except as noted, ZC20 can be installed almost anywhere you desire. There are, however, a few clearance and
framing restrictions that must be followed. See Figure 3 and 4 to make sure that these clearance restrictions are
met. It is much wiser to place your ZC20 correctly at start of installation than to be forced to relocate it after much
of work is done.
You must ensure that floor is of adequate strength to accept load of this unit. If inadequate, floor will require
additional support, such as bracing. NOTE:A wooden base constructed of plywood or 2”x4” boards is required in
order to get proper clearance above the extended hearth (millboard, rock, stone, etc.).
Good planning is essential for a satisfactory installation, therefore, at this point you should have decided where
ZC20 is to be located and the route chimney will follow to the roof—straight up or chase. If you cannot decide best
route, contact your Dealer for assistance with planning.
24 1/16”
24 1/16”
34”
Above (Figure 4) are framing location examples with depth dimensions for some typical configurations. These are
finished measurements so install accordingly.
Position ZC20 for installation as follows:
1. Thoroughly clean area where unit will be placed. Remove any carpeting/padding from area where the ZC20
will be installed.
2. Lay out location on the floor for ZC cabinet. (See Figure 4)
3. Lay out for hearth extension preparation and removal of carpet and padding.
4. A sheet metal safety shield is placed 1 1/2” under cabinet. It must extend out under floor protector.
5. Now, you are ready to install chimney system for ZC20. If you are building an outside chase, follow approved
Chimney Manufacturers instructions. If you are penetrating a ceiling, install the chimney as follows:
a. Drop a plumb line, locate, and mark point on ceiling directly over center of ZC20 chimney adapter.
b. After locating center of hole, install fire stop spacer per chimney manufacturer’s instructions.
TO FINISH WALL
25 1/2”
THE ROUGH OPENING WIDTH
NEEDS TO BE 37 15/16”
85”
CORNER
LOCATION
25 1/2”
ADJACENT ROOM
OF EXTERIOR CHASE
FIGURE 4
25 1/2”
INTERIOR LOCATION
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6. Obtain listed and approved chimney installation instructions and follow exactly.
a) Obtain starter section of pipe and install on ZC20 cabinet. It may be necessary to crimp the inside of
starter pipe to ease installation into the ZC20 cabinet.
b) Obtain the two short sheet metal “ell” brackets and sheet metal screws provided with ZC20 and secure
starter section of pipe to the ZC20 cabinet.
Install pipe to cabinet by pushing
down over starter section of pipe on
the ZC cabinet.
Maintain a 2” minimum
clearance
Top Standoffs
CAUTION: Maintain a 3/4” air
space between back and 1 1/2”
between the side walls and
combustible material.
WARNING: Do not pack
required air spaces on top of cabinet
or around pipe starter section with
insulation or other materials.
Figure 5
c) Continue adding lengths of chimney until you are ready to penetrate another ceiling or roof.
d) Now, plumb bob center of ceiling or roof above chimney and install another fire stop for another ceiling
penetration or follow pipe manufacturer’s instructions for attic and roof penetration.
e) Once roof penetration is made, install flashing.
f) Add applicable lengths of chimney, extending through roof until following conditions are met:
1. Chimney height is at least 12’ to 15’ maximum.
2. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above highest point where it penetrates roof.
3. The chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of building within 10’ of the
chimney.
g) Install the chimney cap and storm collar.
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7. The ZC20 cabinet is now ready for framing as follows:
a) Frame the ZC20 using 2”x4” studs or local building code framing. Some minor framing restrictions are
required:
1. Adjacent side walls must be at least 16” from outer edge of ZC20 trim panel
2. The overall opening dimensions must be at least 37 15/16” wide and 34 5/8” high.
NOTE:Maintain 1 1/2” clearance at side walls of cabinet and combustible material.
b) 2”x4” framing above the unit must be turned flat. This allows proper clearance from framing to chimney
(2” minimum). (See Figure 6).
ZC20/Model 20
Optional Fire Code
Sheet Rock And
Metal Fire Stop
2 In.
Min.
TOPPER
STORM COLLAR
ROOF FLASHING
TRIPLE WALL PIPE
2”X 4” STUDDING
USE FIRE CODE SHEET
ROCK
NBC METAL FIRE STOP
RADIATION SHIELD
Ceiling
NOTE: Follow
building and fire
codes for each
individual state.
NBC
Radiation
Shied
15FT. MAX.
CHASE
ENCLOSE -
URE
2” X 4” STUDDING
A SINGLE HEADER
MUST BE INSTALLED
ABOVE CABINET
34-5/8”
37-15/16”
17”
THESE MEASUREMENTS
ARE CRITICAL.
WARNING: Install hearth protector only as
specified. The hearth extension must extend a
minimum of 17” in front of the fireplace opening and must be 37 15/16” wide minimum.
FIGURE 6 CHASE ENCLOSURE AND CORNER LOCATION FRAMING
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8. Next construct hearth extension out of non-combustible inorganic building materials as follows:
a) The hearth extension must extend 17” in front of rough framed opening on ZC20.
b) The hearth extension width must be at least 37 15/16”.
c) The hearth extension must be made of brick 2” thick, a listed “Hearth Extension” or “Floor Protector” or a
hearth extension made of non-combustible inorganic material with a K* factor of:
K = 2.5 BTU ((HR) (ft2) (oF/in.))
ALTERNATE FLOOR PROTECTORS MATERIALS
With floor protector or hearth extension material specified as one layer of 2” thick brick with a K* factor of 5.0,
you may use alternate materials as long as the K* factor (s) is calculated as follows:
Formula: Required thickness = (K of alternate material/K of millboard) X (thickness of millboard)
Example: An alternate inorganic non-combustible millboard with a K of .9375 would require a thickness
as follows:
Required thickness = .9375.0o x 2 inch
= 3/8 inch
Hearth extension or floor protector thickness above four (4) inches is generally not acceptable due to cost, floor
load capacity and look. The alternate we recommend is using Ceroform No. 126 millboard 1/8” thick minimum
and putting any type decorative brick or stone (any thickness) on top of it.
*The K* factor represents thermal conductivity of a material and is time rate of heat flow through a homogeneous
material under steady-state conditions, through unit area, per unit temperature gradient in the direction
perpendicular to a surface.
9. The next step is electrical installation. NOTE: An electrician must wire the ZC20 into home wiring system
using No. 15 AWG (with ground wiring) as minimum in accordance with local wiring codes.
CAUTION: Stove is plugged into cabinet receptacle.
A. Remove brass trim.
B. Remove top panel and right side panel.
C. Now an electrician must do the wiring.
.
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TOP FRONT TRIM PANEL
BRASS TRIM
RIGHT SIDE TRIM
PANEL
HEATER POWER CORD
BLACK
WHITE
GROUND
REAR COVER PLATE
RECEPTACLE BOX
FIGURE 7A POWER HOOK-UP
FINISHED WALL
MANTEL or SUPPORTS
“A MINIMUM OF 12" FROM
12"MIN.
TOP OF UNIT TO TRIM OF
MANTEL OR SUPPORTS”
FINISHED
HEARTH
17"
WOODEN BASE
FLOOR
LINE
2 1/2"
FIGURE 7 B
10. Now, finish the wall around the ZC20 using brick, rock, sheetrock, paneling or any type finishing material.
CAUTION: Do not block any openings designed into unit.
11. Install a mantel above unit if desired. Note that a combustible mantel must be positioned at least 12” above
top of ZC20 cabinet from mantel trim or supports.
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SECTION II
MOBILE HOME INSTALLATIONS
PARTS REQUIREMENTS
Listed NEW BUCK CORP.
Model Part Description/Part #
ZC20 Zero clearance cabinet assembly with Model 20
fireplace installed
New Buck Firestop Radiation Shield # PA 6FRS20
UL Listed and Factory Approved Chimney Systems
Description
Simpson Dura Vent - 6” 2100o HT Type “DP” Chimney
Security - 6” “ASHT” High Temp Chimney
Selkirk Metal Bestos - 6” Model SSII Type HT Chimney
Metal Fab - 6” 2100o HT Chimney
CAUTION:Read through all of these instructions carefully. Follow approved Chimney Manufacturer’s
Installation exactly. Failure to install Cabinet Fireplace, Stove and Chimney as described in instructions will void
manufacturer’s warranty and may have an effect on your Homeowner’s Insurance. A major cause of chimney
related fires is failure to maintain required clearances (air spaces) to combustible materials. It is of utmost
importance that these parts be installed only in accordance with these instructions.
The Zero-Clearance cabinet and Model 20 (hereafter referred to as the ZC20) is designed for installation in a
family dwelling, where minimum clearance is desired.
INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS
The following precautions are mandatory for a safe installation:
A. Compliance with local building codes and regulations is mandatory.
B. Be careful not to damage unit in handling and unpacking component parts and accessories.
C. A UL Listed and Approved Chimney System is to be used and vented to the outside of the building. (See
chimney list above.)
D. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above highest point where it penetrates roof (3’ above a flat roof
or up to 2 1/2 pitch roof) and chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of building
within 10’ of chimney. The minimum height is 12’. A 2” clearance must be maintained between the chimney
and any combustible materials at all points.
E. A rain cap must be used to terminate the chimney to prevent down-draft.
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F. DO NOT build a fire directly inside the ZC20. It is designed solely for housing the Model 20.
G. WARNING: Do not install in sleeping room.
H. CAUTION: The structural integrity of mobile home floor, wall, and ceiling/roof must be maintained.
I. Do not connect this unit to a chimney serving another appliance.
FRAMING CONSTRUCTION AND INSTALLATION
Except as noted, ZC20 can be installed almost anywhere you desire. There are, however, a few clearance and
framing restrictions that must be followed. See Figure 5 and 6 to make sure that these clearance restrictions are
met. It is much wiser to place your ZC20 correctly at start of the installation than to be forced to relocate it after
much of work is done.
You must ensure that the floor is of adequate strength to accept load of this unit. If inadequate, floor will require
additional support, such as bracing. NOTE:A wooden base constructed of plywood or 2”x4” boards is required in
order to get proper clearance above extended hearth (millboard, rock, stone, etc.)
Where cabinet is to be placed, a 4 1/4” diameter hole with a 2 1/8” radius from center line must be cut through
floor. Outside air duct kit #PP 70075-01 is be installed. (See Figure 9).
1. Thoroughly clean area where unit will be placed. Remove any carpeting/padding from area where ZC20 will
be installed.
2. Layout location on floor for ZC cabinet. NOTE:Maintain 3/4” clearance between rear of cabinet and
combustible material.
3. Layout for hearth extension preparation and removal of carpet and padding. Where cabinet is to be placed, a 4
1/4” diameter hole with a 2 1/8” radius from center line must be cut through floor. Outside air duct kit # PP
70075-01 is to be installed. (See Figure 9).
4. Next, a sheet metal safety shield is placed 1 1/2” under front of cabinet. It must extend out under floor
protector. Drop a plumb line, locate and mark point on ceiling directly over center of ZC20 chimney adapter.
After locating center of hole, install fire stop spacer, per chimney manufacturers instructions.
CORNER
LOCATION
INTERIOR LOCATION
FIGURE 8
25”
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5. Obtain Listed and Approved Chimney Installation instructions and follow exactly.
a) Obtain starter section of pipe and install on ZC20 cabinet. It my be necessary to crimp inside of starter
pipe to ease installation into ZC20 cabinet.
b) Obtain two short sheet metal “ell” brackets and sheet metal screws provided with ZC20 and secure starter
section of pipe to ZC20 cabinet.
c) Add applicable lengths of chimney extending through roof until following conditions are met:
1. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above highest point where it penetrates roof.
2. The chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of building within 10’ of chimney but not to exceed 15’ above hearth.
d) Install the flashing, storm collar and chimney cap as indicated in manufacturers installation instructions.
6. The ZC20 Cabinet is now ready for framing as follows:
a) Frame the ZC20 using 2”x4” studs or local building code framing. Some minor framing restrictions are
required:
1. Adjacent side walls must be at least 17” from outer edge of ZC20 trim panel.
2. The overall opening dimensions must be at least 37 15/16” wide and 34 5/8” high.
b) 2”x4” framing above unit must be turned flat. This allows proper clearance from framing to chimney (2”
minimum). (See Figure 10).
RAIN CAP
2 ft.
NEW BUCK
FIRE STOP
RADIATION
SHIELD
OUTSIDE AIR
DUCT THROUGH
UNDERPINNING
STORM
COLLAR
FLASHING
2 ft.
RAIN CAP
STORM COLLAR
FLASHING
NEW BUCK
FIRE STOP
RADIATION
SHIELD
OUTSIDE AIR DUCT
THROUGH FLOOR
WHEN MOBILE
HOME IS NOT UNDERPINNED
3 ft. Typical
20 ft. Max.
(Typical)
FIGURE 9
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CAUTION: Refer to chim-
Optional
Fire Code Sheet Rock
And Metal Fire Stop
2 In.
Min.
15FT.
MAX.
TOPPER
STORM COLLAR
ROOF FLASHING
TRIPLE WALL PIPE
ney manufactures instructions for assembly and disassembly of chimney parts. Be
sure to follow chimney
instructions for proper clearances to combustibles and
proper air spacing required.
2 “X 4” STUDDING
USE FIRE CODE SHEET ROCK
NBC METAL FIRE STOP RADIA-
TION SHIELD
Ceiling
NBC
RADIATION
SHIELD
2”X 4” STUDDING
A SINGLE HEADER MUST BE
INSTALLED ABOVE CABINET
NOTE: Follow
building and fire
codes for each individual state.
Chase
Enclosure
34 5/8”
37 15/16”
THESE MEASUREMENTS
ARE CRITICAL
17”
WARNING: Install the hearth protector only as specified. The hearth exten-
sion must extend a minimum of 17” in
front of the fireplace opening and must
be 37 15/16” wide minimum.
FIGURE 10 CHASE ENCLOSURE AND CORNER LOCATION FRAMING
7. Next construct hearth extension out of non-combustible inorganic building materials as follows:
a) The hearth extension must extend 17” in front of rough framed opening on the ZC20.
b) The hearth extension width must be at least 37 15/16”.
c) The hearth extension must be made of brick 2” thick, a listed “Hearth Extension” or “Floor Protector” or a
hearth extension made of non-combustible inorganic material with a K* factor of:
K = 2.5 BTU ((HR) (ft2) (oF/in.))
ALTERNATE FLOOR PROTECTORS MATERIALS
With floor protector or hearth extension material specified as one layer of 2” thick brick with a K* factor of 5.0,
you may use alternate materials as long as K* factor (s) is calculated as follows:
Formula: Required thickness = (K of alternate material/K of millboard) X (thickness of millboard)
Example: An alternate inorganic non-combustible millboard with a K of .9375 would require a thickness
as follows:
Required thickness = .9375.0o x 2 inch
= 3/8 inch
Hearth extension or floor protector thickness above four (4) inches is generally not acceptable due to cost, floor
load capacity and look. The alternate we recommend is using Ceroform No. 126 millboard 1/8” thick minimum
and putting any type decorative brick or stone (any thickness) on top of it.
*The K* factor represents thermal conductivity of a material and is the time rate of heat flow through a
homogeneous material under steady-state conditions, through unit area, per unit temperature gradient in direction
perpendicular to a surface.
9. The next step is the electrical installation. NOTE: An electrician must wire the ZC20 into home wiring system
using No. 15 AWG (with ground wiring) as minimum in accordance with local wiring codes.
CAUTION: Stove is plugged into cabinet receptacle.
A. Remove brass trim.
B. Remove top panel and right side panel.
C. Now an electrician must do wiring.
9. Now, finish wall around ZC20 using brick, rock, sheetrock, paneling or any type finishing material.
CAUTION: Do not block any openings designed into unit.
10. Install a mantel above unit if desired. Note that a combustible mantel must be positioned at least 12” above
top of the ZC20 cabinet.
11. The ZC20 and Model 20 fireplace are now ready for use. Refer to the Model 20 owners manual for operation,
safety and chimney maintenance. Refer to the back of this manual for ZC20 warranty registration information.
TOP FRONT TRIM PANEL
HEATER POWER CORD
FIGURE 11 POWER HOOK-UP
BRASS TRIM
RIGHT
SIDE TRIM
PANEL
BLACK
WHITE
GROUND
REAR COVER PLATE
RECEPTACLE BOX
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CLEANING THE UNIT
A. The unit should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper or steel wool, then repainted or touched up with high
temperature black paint.
B. If unit is located in a moist or damp location, check thoroughly for signs of condensation during times when
unit is not in use.
C. When heating season is over, unit can be cleaned out completely with a wire brush or cloth to help eliminate
ash and burned wood smell.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Use smoke detectors around stove as well as in sleeping areas.
2. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for Class “A” fires near stove.
3. Check with your insurance company to be sure your policy covers installation and use of a wood burning
appliance.
4. Creosote-Formation and Need for Removal: When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic
vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in relatively
cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on flue lining. When
ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once every two months during heating season
to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce risk of a chimney fire.
5. Locate furniture and any other combustibles away from stove.
6. Store firewood at a safe distance from stove.
7. Disposal of Ashes: Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of
ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on ground well away from all combustible materials,
pending final disposal. If ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be
retained in closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
8. Always exercise caution when using your fireplace. Be particularly careful when there are children around an
operating fireplace.
CAUTION: NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar liquids to
start or “freshen-up” a fire in fireplace. Keep all such liquids well away from stove when it is in use. All fluids of
this type give off highly volatile fumes and can and WILL EXPLODE! Don’t take a chance with safety of your
home and family.
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PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE/
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
CHIMNEY
A. The chimney should be cleaned as necessary to remove creosote, soot, leaves, birds nests, etc.
CREOSOTE-FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to
form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least once every two months. More frequent inspection
and cleaning may be necessary. Under certain conditions of use creosote build-up may occur rapidly.
Creosote is caused by low temperatures in chimney, which is controlled by operator of stove.
B. A neglected chimney can eventually cause a draw restriction or can ignite and burn hot enough to cause
damage to chimney.
C. For proper inspection chimney should be cleaned.
CHIMNEY CLEANING:
1. Access-Chimneys must be installed so that access is provided for inspection and cleaning.
2. When to Clean-The chimney should be inspected at least once every two months during heating season to
determine if creosote or soot has built up. Check spark arrestor screens every 2-4 weeks. If creosote or soot
has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce risk of chimney fire.
3. How to Clean-Have your chimney cleaned by a professional chimney sweeper if you have doubts about your
ability to clean it, using a plastic, wood, or steel brush. Do not use a brush that will scratch the stainless steel
liner of your chimney. Scrub spark arrestor with a wire brush.
To remove chimney cap for cleaning, unscrew four screws that attach the cap’s support legs to cap
base. The top cleanout cap can be removed once screws are unscrewed. Remember to replace screws
when you are through cleaning chimney.
4. No Chemical Cleaners-Do not use chemical chimney cleaners. Their use does not eliminate need for
mechanical cleaning and they may be highly corrosive.
5. In Case of Fire-If a flue fire occurs, close all appliance draft openings and call your Fire Department. Do not
use chimney again until it is inspected for possible damage.
6. Chimney Protection-Painting. To increase chimney life, coat all exterior metal parts with high temperature
rust-proof paint. This is highly recommended, particularly in areas near the ocean. Wash the metal with a
vinegar and water solution before painting.
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NEW BUCK CORPORATION (NBC)
“LIMITED WARRANTY” FOR NBC RELATED PRODUCTS
PLEASE READ THIS WARRANTY CAREFULLY
PRODUCTS COVERED
This warranty covers the new heating unit so long as it
is owned by the original purchaser, including optional
and standard accessories purchased at the same time,
subject to terms, limitations, and conditions herein set
out.
PRODUCTS NOT COVERED
This warranty does not cover the following:
Glass, Refractory Material, Firebrick or Gaskets.
This Warranty will not cover any damage and/or
failure caused by abuse or improper installation of the
Products Covered.
WARRANTY TIME PERIODS
(A) Period I
For one (1) year from the date of purchase, NBC will
replace or repair, at its option, any part defective in
materials or workmanship. The costs of parts only are
included. The customer pays any labor or transportation
charges required.
Thereafter
(B) Period II
For the period after the first year from date of purchase
and extending for five (5) years as long as related
product is owned by the original purchaser, NBC will
repair or replace, at its option, any part defective in
materials or workmanship, with the exception of:
electrical motors, wiring, switches, components,
optional and standard accessories, and all parts not
permanently attached to heating unit. Parts not
permanently attached to heating unit are defined as
those items designed to be removed from unit,
including those removable with common hand tools.
The cost of parts only are included. The customer pays
any labor or transportation charges required.
PROCEDURE
Should you feel that your heater is defective, you
should contact any NBC dealer for the name of your
nearest authorized heater service representative, who
will instruct you on the proper procedure, depending on
which Warranty Time Period (Period I or Period II)
applies.
If for any reason you are dissatisfied with the
suggested procedures, you may contact us in writing
at:
NEW BUCK CORPORATION
Customer Service Department
P. O. Box 69
Spruce Pine, NC 28777
Email: info@buckstove.com
CONDITIONS AND EXCLUSIONS
(A) Replacement of parts may be in the form of new
or fully reconditioned parts, at NBC’s option.
(B) There are no other warranties express or implied
including warranties of Merchantability, Fitness
for Purpose or Otherwise except those warranties
expressly stated herein.
(C) NewBuckCorporation is not liable for indirect,
incidental or consequential damages in
connection with use of the product including any
cost or expense of providing substitute
equipment or service during periods of malfunction or non-use. Some states do not allow
exclusion of incidental or consequential
damages, so the above exclusion may not apply
to you.
(D) All warranty repairs under this warranty must be
performed by an authorized Buck Stove service
representative. Repairs or attempted repairs by
anyone other than an authorized service
representative are not covered under this
warranty. In addition, these unauthorized repairs
may result in additional malfunctions, the
correction of which is not covered by warranty.
OTHER RIGHTS
This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you
may also have other rights, which vary from state to
state.
OWNER REGISTRATION CARD
The attached Owner Registration Card must be
completed in its entirety and mailed within 30 days
from date of purchase or from date of installation, if
installed by a factory certified installer, to New Buck
Corporation, in order for warranty coverage to begin.
PLEASE NOTE: The Owner Registration Card must
contain the Authorized Dealer Code Number and
Certified Installer’s number (if applicable) for
warranty coverage to begin.
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To be completed by selling distributor/ dealer/ customer:
Model 20 ______ Insert: __________ Residential: ___________ Mobile Home: __________
Model 20 ______ Freestanding: _____ Residential: ___________ Mobile Home: __________
Model 20ZC/20 __________________ Residential: ___________ Mobile Home: __________
Serial No. ________________________________________
Date Of Installation: Day: __________________ Month: ________________ Year: ___________________