BMW Mountain Bike Enduro, Mountain Bike Cross Country, Touring Bike, Cruise Bike Owner's Manual

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BMW Lifestyle Bikes & Equipment

www.bmw-shop.com

The Ultimate Driving

Machine

JOY IS POWERFULLY EFFICIENT.

OWNER’S MaNUaL.

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Suspension fork:

Fork crown Stanchion tube Lower leg Drop-out

Stem Handlebars Brake lever Shift lever Headset

Rotor Brake

Wheel:

Quick-release Tyre Spoke Rim Valve Hub

Frame:

Top tube Down tube Seat tube Chainstay Rear stay Rear shock

Saddle Seat post

Seat post clamp

Brake Cassette sprockets Front derailleur Rear derailleur

Chain

Chainring Crankset Pedal

III

2 3 4 5 6

BMW Mountain Bike Enduro.

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Suspension fork:

Fork crown Stanchion tube Lower leg Drop-out

Stem Handlebars Brake lever Shift lever Headset

Rotor Brake

Wheel:

Quick-release Tyre Spoke Rim Valve Hub

Frame:

Top tube Down tube Seat tube Chainstay Rear stay Rear shock

Saddle

Seat post Seat post clamp

Brake Cassette sprockets Front derailleur Rear derailleur

Chain

Chainring Crankset Pedal

III

2 3 4 5 6

BMW Mountain Bike Cross Country.

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Suspension fork:

Fork crown Stanchion tube Lower leg Drop-out

Stem Handlebars Brake lever Shift lever Headset

Front light with re󷴳ector

Front brake

Hub dynamo

Wheel:

Quick-release Tyre Spoke Rim

Re󷴳ector ring

Valve Hub

Frame:

Top tube Down tube Seat tube Chainstay Rear stay

Saddle Seat post Seat post clamp Pannier rack

Rear light with re󷴳ector Re󷴳ector

Mudguard Rear brake

Cassette sprockets Front derailleur Rear derailleur Kickstand Chain

Chainring Crankset Pedal

III

2 3 4 5

BMW Touring Bike / Cruise Bike.

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1 WELCOME.

Congratulations for having purchased your new BMW bicycle! This manual contains information on the safe operation and maintenance of your BMW bicycle. Furthermore, it describes the risks and dangers in case of incorrect handling.

Please read these instructions thoroughly before you set off for the 󷴲rst

time.

Contact your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust for all service or repair to be done on your bicycle.

Handover report, bicycle data and registration.

To validate your warranty, the bicycle must be handed over properly, unless it was purchased at www.bmw-shop.com, and the handover

report completed in full. Be sure to thoroughly 󷴲ll in all bicycle data into the handover report for an easier identi󷴲cation, e.g. in the event of loss or

theft. The frame number of your BMW bicycle is marked on the underside of the bottom bracket shell.

Handover report: Original and copies.

Send the original to the following address of G.B.S. Global Bike Service Ltd. There is one copy for the salesman and one copy for the buyer.

G.B.S. Global Bike Service Ltd. Codeword: BMW Bike Registration Wichernstraße 7 D-97525 Schwebheim

When you send the handover report to G.B.S. Global Bike Service Ltd.

your BMW bicycle will be registered. We shall be pleased to con󷴲rm the

purchase of your BMW bicycle as soon as it will be registered.

To 󷴲nd more 󷴲lms, downloads and information on BMW bikes as well as

further BMW lifestyle products, please visit us at www.bmw-shop.com.

In purchasing this bicycle you have chosen a product of high quality and technology. Each component of your new bicycle has been designed, manufactured and assembled with great care and expertise. Your BMW

partner gave the bicycle its 󷴲nal assembly and performed a function

check to guarantee proper operation. You can now set off to enjoy your new bicycle feeling safe and secure.

This manual contains a wealth of information on the proper use of your bicycle, its maintenance and operation as well as interesting details about bicycle design and engineering. Please read these instructions thoroughly. We are sure that even if you have been cycling all your life

you will 󷴲nd it worthwhile. Bicycle technology has developed at a rapid

pace during recent years. Therefore, before setting off on your new bicycle, be sure to read at least the chapter “Before Your FIRST Ride“.

To have as much fun as possible during cycling, be sure to carry out the minimum functional check described in chapter “Before EVERY Ride” before setting off. This manual cannot teach you the skills of a bicycle mechanic. Even a manual as big as an encyclopaedia could not describe every possible combination of available bicycles and components. It therefore focuses on your newly purchased bicycle and standard components providing important information and warnings.

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When doing maintenance or repair work, be aware that the detailed instructions provided in your manual only refer to these bicycles.

The information included here is not applicable to any other bicycle. As bicycles come in a wide variety of designs with frequent model changes, the routines described may not be complete. In addition, please observe the instructions of the component suppliers that you have received from your BMW partner.

Be aware that these instructions may require further explanation, depending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work. For some jobs you may require additional (special) tools or supplementary instructions.

For your own safety, never do work on your bicycle unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Before you set off, let us point out a few things that are very important to every cyclist: Never ride without a properly adjusted helmet and without glasses and take care to always wear suitable clothing. At least you

should wear straight cut trousers and shoes 󷴲tting the pedal system. Always ride carefully on public roads and observe the traf󷴲c rules so as

not to endanger yourself or others.

This manual cannot teach you how to ride. Please be aware that cycling is a hazardous activity that requires the rider to stay in control of his or her bicycle at all times.

Like any sport, cycling involves the risk of injury. Keep this in mind. When you decide to ride a bicycle you need to accept the risk inherent to cycling. Please note that on a bicycle you have no protection technology around you (e.g. bodywork, airbag) like you have in a car. Therefore,

always ride carefully and do respect the other traf󷴲c participants. Never ride under the in󷴳uence of drugs, medication, alcohol or when you are

tired. Do not ride with a second person on your bicycle and always ride with your hands on the handlebars.

Obser ve the legal regulations concerning off-road cycling. These regulations may differ in each country. Please respect nature when riding off-road. Only use your bicycle on signposted, well-maintained trails and hard-surface roads.

First we would like to familiarise you with the various components used

on your bicycle. Please unfold the cover of this manual. Here you will 󷴲nd

the diagrams of three bicycles showing all the essential components. Leave the page unfolded as you read so that you can easily locate the components as they are referred to in the text.

Have a nice cycle trip! Your BMW Group team

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IMPRINT.

Editor and photos: BMW AG www.bmw-shop.com

Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to change. Liability of the editor, editorial department and other third parties for articles in this brochure and damage whatsoever resulting thereof shall be excluded, unless they are due to gross negligence.

No part of this publication may be reprinted, translated, copied or transmitted in any form or by any means, e.g. electronic, mechanical, by hand or otherwise for another business purpose without prior written permission of the author or the editor.

Edition 1, May 2009

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CONTENTS.

1 Welcome. 1 Imprint. 3

1.1 General Notes on this Manual. 6

1.2 Before Your First Ride. 7

1.3 Before Ever y Ride. 9

1.4 After an Accident. 11

1.5 How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles. 12

1.5.1 Quick-Releases. 12

1.5.2 Thru A xles. 14

2 Intended Use. 15

2.1 General Overview. 15

2.1.1 Cruise Bike. 15

2.1.2 Touring Bike. 15

2.1.3 Mountain Bike Cross Country and Enduro. 16

3 Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads. 18

4 Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and Country. 19

4.1 Safe Cycling on Public Roads. 19

4.2 Environment - Cycling Off-Road. 20

5 Brake System. 21

5.1 General Information. 21

5.1.1 Brakes – How They Work and What to Do about Wear. 22

5.2 Rim Brakes. 22

5.2.1 V-Brakes. 23

5.2.1.1 Functional Check. 23

5.2.1.2 Power Modulator. 23

5.2.1.3 Synchronising and Readjusting. 24

5.3 Disc Brakes. 24

5.3.1 Checking Hydraulic Disc Brakes. 25

5.4 Roller, Drum and Back-Pedal Brakes. 26

5.4.1 Checking and Readjusting Hand-Operated Brakes. 26

5.4.2 Checking and Readjusting Back-Pedal Brakes. 27

6 Drive System. 28

6.1 Gears. 28

6.1.1 Bottom Bracket - Crankset. 28

6.2 Derailleur Gears. 29

6.2.1 Derailleur Gears – How They Work and How to Operate Them on Mountain, Cruise and Touring Bikes. 29

6.3 Checking and Readjusting Derailleur Gears. 30

6.3.1 Rear Derailleur. 30

6.3.2 Checking the Limit Stops. 31

6.3.3 Front Derailleur. 32

6.4 Multi-Speed Hubs (Internal Gear Hubs). 33

6.4.1 Multi-Speed Hubs - How They Work and How to Use Them. 33

6.4.2 Checking and Readjusting. 34

6.5 Combined Derailleur/Hub Gears. 34

6.5.1 Combined Derailleur/Hub Gears - How They Work and How to Use Them. 35

6.5.2 Readjusting. 35

6.6 Crank System. 35

6.7 Chain. 36

6.7.1 Chain Maintenance. 36

6.7.2 Chain Wear. 36

6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed Bicycles and Multi-Speed Hubs. 37

7 Wheels and Tyres. 38

7.1 Tyres, Tubes, Rim Tape, Valves, In󷴳ation Pressure. 38

7.2 Rim Trueness, Spoke Tension. 40

7.3 Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases. 41

7.4 Wheel Fastening with Thru Axle Systems. 41

7.5 Puncture. 42

7.5.1 Wheel Removal. 42

7.5.2 Tyre Removal (Clincher, Folding Tyres). 43

7.5.3 Tyre Mounting (Clincher, Folding Tyres). 44

7.5.4 Removal of Tubeless Tyres. 45

7.5.5 Repair of Tubeless Tyres. 45

7.5.6 Mounting Tubeless Tyres. 46

7.5.7 Wheel Mounting. 46

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8 Headset. 48

8.1 Checking the Headset. 48

8.2 Readjusting a Conventional Headset. 49

8.3 Readjusting an Aheadset

. 49

9 Suspension. 50

9.1 Glossary. 50

9.2 Suspension Forks. 51

9.2.1 Adjusting the Spring Rate. 51

9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping Control. 53

9.2.3 Adjusting the Travel. 54

9.2.4 Maintenance. 55

9.3 Rear Shock. 56

9.3.1 Adjusting the Seating Position. 56

9.3.2 Adjusting the Spring Rate. 56

9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control. 58

9.3.4 Maintenance. 59

10 Lighting. 61

10.1 Hub Dynamo. 61

10.2 Troubleshooting. 61

11 Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider. 63

11.1 Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height. 63

11.2 Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars. 65

11.2.1 Adjustable Stems. 66

11.2.2 Conventional Stems. 67

11.2.3 Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset

-System. 68

11.2.4 Adjusting Adjustable Handlebar Systems (A.H.S.). 68

11.3 Correcting the Fore-to-Aft Position and Tilt of the Saddle. 69

11.3.1 Adjusting Saddle Position and Tilt. 70

11.4 Adjusting the Brake Levers and the Handlebars. 71

11.4.1 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Mountain, Cruise and Touring Bikes. 71

11.4.2 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake Levers of Mountain, Cruise and Touring Bikes. 71

12 All About Bicycles. 73

12.1 Transporting Baggage. 73

12.1.1 Transporting Baggage with Full-Suspension Frames. 74

12.2 Taking Children with You. 74

12.2.1 Child Carriers. 74

12.2.2 Child Trailers. 75

12.2.3 Kids’ Tandem Bicycles / Trailer Systems. 76

12.3 Taking the Bicycle by Car. 77

12.4 Taking the Bicycle by Plane. 79

12.5 Accessories. 79

12.5.1 Additional Fittings. 80

12.5.2 Mudguards. 80

12.5.3 Bicycle Locks. 81

12.6 Proper Cycling Equipment. 81

12.6.1 Cycling Helmets. 81

12.6.2 Proper Cycling Clothing. 82

12.6.3 Cycling Glasses. 82

12.6.4 Shoes and Pedals. 82

13 General Notes on Care and Inspection. 85

13.1 Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle. 86

13.2 Sheltering and Storing the Bicycle. 87

14 Service and Maintenance Schedule. 88

15 Recommended Tightening Torques. 90

16 Service Schedule (to be stamped). 92

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1.1 General Notes on this Manual.

The technology of today’s bicycles has become very complex. As there is a vast range of bicycle components, this manual focuses on the most important parts including general features. Therefore, be sure to observe the additional adjustment and/or maintenance instructions of the respective component manufacturers that you have received from your BMW partner together with this manual.

If you intend to do any maintenance or repair work by yourself, you should keep in mind that today’s bicycle technology requires a considerable amount of know-how as well as special tools (a), such as e.g. a torque wrench (b). Have your bicycle ser viced by your BMW partner to be on the safe side.

The following information refers to your bicycle by using the speci󷴲c

technical terms. Therefore, make yourself familiar with your bicycle.

Please unfold the front cover of this manual. You will 󷴲nd the diagrams

of three bicycles showing the components found on your bicycle. Leave the page unfolded as you read so that you can easily locate the components as they are referred to in the text.

The table of contents will quickly lead you to the part you are interested in.

This symbol signi󹞬es a warning that you should strictly observe

in view of your own safety and that of others and to prevent your BMW bicycle from damage.

This symbol provides you with information or details on how to make the most of your BMW bicycle.

Please note that the aforementioned consequences will not be repeated each time the symbols appear in the manual.

This manual does not help you to assemble a bicycle from individual parts, to repair it or to make a partly assembled bicycle ready-for-use!

Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to change.

This manual complies with the requirements of the European standards EN 14764 and EN 14766.

In addition, please observe the included instructions of the component manufacturers. This manual is subject to European law. If delivered to countries outside Europe, supplementary information has to be provided by the bicycle manufacturer.

This manual does not provide any information on frames and components made of carbon! Misuse of carbon parts may result in material failure, breakage and accidents. In case you

want to 󹞬t your bicycle with carbon components, please read

the instructions included with these components thoroughly! If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

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1.2 Before Your First Ride.

1. Be sure to use your bicycle only for its intended purpose, as it may

otherwise not stand up to the stress and fail! Risk of accident!

For more information on the intended use read chapter “Intended

Use”.

2. The maximum overall weight (including rider, baggage and bike) your

bicycle is designed for is speci󷴲ed in chapter “Intended Use”.

3. Are you familiar with the brakes (a)? Check whether the lever of the

front brake is in the position you are used to (right or left). If it is not, you will need to learn to get used to it, as inadvertent use of the front brake can throw you off your bicycle. Or ask your BMW partner to switch the brake levers.

Your new bicycle is equipped with modern brakes (b) which may be

far more powerful than those you were used to so far! Be sure to 󷴲rst

practise using the brakes on a level, non-slip surface off public roads!

For more information see chapter “Brake System”.

Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases, while riding with your hands on bar ends (c). The brake levers are not always within easy reach.

4. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears? If not,

make yourself familiar with the gears in a place free of traf󷴲c.

For more information see chapter “Drive System”.

5. Are both saddle and handlebars properly adjusted? Check whether your toes reach to the 󷴳oor when you are sitting on the saddle (d). Your BMW partner will be pleased to help you if you are not happy with your seating position.

For more information see chapter “Adjusting the Bicycle to the

Rider”.

Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bicycle quickly.

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6. If your bicycle is equipped with clipless or step-in pedals (a), do not set off until you have practised engaging and disengaging the shoes from the pedals while stationary (b).

For more information see chapter “Proper Cycling Equipment”.

Be sure to also read the operating instructions for the pedals delivered by your BMW partner.

A lack of practice when using clipless pedals or too much spring tension in the mechanism can lead to a very 󹞬rm connection, from which you cannot quickly step out! Risk of accident!

7. If you have bought a suspension bicycle, you should ask your BMW partner to adjust the suspension mechanism to your needs before delivery. If you have bought it at ww w.bmw-shop.com, ask at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to do this job. Improperly adjusted suspension components are liable to malfunction or damage. In any case they will impair the performance of your bicycle as well as your safety whilst riding.

For more information see chapters “Suspension Forks” and

“Rear Shock”. Further notes regarding full suspension bicycles and forks may be enclosed with this manual.

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1.3 Before Every Ride.

Your bicycle has undergone numerous tests during production and a

󷴲nal check has been carried out by your BMW partner. Nevertheless,

be sure to check the following points to exclude any malfunctioning that may be due to the transport of your bicycle or to work a third person may have performed on your bicycle before delivery:

1. Are the quick-release levers of the front and rear wheel properly closed and the bolts of the seat post and other components correctly tightened (a)? For more information see chapter “How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles”.

Improperly closed quick-releases can cause bicycle components to come loose. Risk of accident!

2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have suf󷴲cient pressure?

Make a “thumb test“ (b).

For more information see chapter “Wheels and Tyres”.

3. Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. Watch the gap between rim and brake pad or, in the case of disc brakes, between frame and rim or tyre. Untrue rims can be an indication of tyres with ruptured sides or broken axles or spokes.

For more information see chapter “Wheels and Tyres”.

4. Test the brakes while stationary by 󷴲rmly pulling the brake levers

towards the handlebars (c). The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim with their entire surface without touching the tyre. You should not be able to pull the lever all the way to the handlebars! The same applies to the brake levers of disc brakes. You should not be able to pull

them all the way to the handlebars! Make sure there is no brake 󷴳uid

leakage. Also check the thickness of the brake pads.

For more information see chapter “Brake System”.

5. Let your bicycle bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is any rattling, check where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolts, if necessary.

6. If you want to ride on public roads, make sure your bicycle is equipped according to the regulations of your countr y (d). Riding without lights and re󷴳ectors in dark or dim conditions is very dangerous, because other road users will see you too late or not at all. A set of lights that corresponds to the regulations is a must on public roads. Turn on the lights as soon as dusk sets in.

For more information see chapter “Legal Requirements for Rid-

ing on Public Roads“.

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7. If your bicycle has suspension, check the frame: Press down on your bicycle and see whether the spring elements retract and extend as usual (a+b).

For more information see chapters “Suspension Forks” and

“Rear Shock”. Further notes regarding full suspension bicycles and forks may be enclosed with this manual.

8. If your bicycle has a kickstand, make sure it is fully raised before you set off. Risk of accident!

Do not use your bicycle, if it fails on one of these points! Riding a defective bicycle can result in serious accidents! If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

During use your bicycle is undergoing stress resulting from the surface of the road and through the rider’s action. Due to these dynamic loads, the different parts of your bicycle react with wear and fatigue. Please check your bicycle regularly for wear marks, scratches (c), bent parts, colour changes and any indication of cracking. Parts which have reached the end of their lifespan may break without previous warning. Let your BMW partner maintain and service your bicycle regularly and in cases of doubt it is always best to replace parts.

Do not forget to take a high quality D- or chain lock (d) with you on your ride. The only way to effectively protect your bicycle against theft is to lock it to an immovable object.

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1.4 After an Accident.

1. Check whether the wheels are still 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed in the drop-outs and

whether the rims are still centred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin the wheels. If the width of the gap changes markedly and you cannot true the rim where you are, you will need to open the rim brakes a little so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them. Caution: This will reduce the braking performance.

For more information see chapters “Brake System” and “Wheels

and Tyres”.

2. Check that handlebars and stem are neither bent nor broken and that

they are level and upright. Make sure the stem is 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed on the

fork by taking the front wheel between your knees and by trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel (a). Brie󷴳y lean on the

brake levers to make sure the handlebars are 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed in the stem.

For more information see chapters “Adjusting the Bicycle to the

Rider” and “Headset”.

3. Check whether the chain still runs on the chainrings and sprockets (b). If your bicycle fell over on the chain side, verify the proper functioning of the gears. Ask somebody to lift the bicycle by the saddle and gently shift through all the gears. Pay particular attention when shifting to the small gears, making sure the rear derailleur does not get too close to the spokes as the chain climbs onto the larger sprockets (c). If the rear derailleur or the drop-outs are bent, this can cause the rear derailleur to collide with the spokes and result in an

accident! This in turn can destroy the rear derailleur, the rear wheel or the frame. Check the front derailleur, as a damaged gear changer can throw off the chain, thus interrupting the power train of the bicycle (see chapter “Drive System”).

4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube or the bottom bracket shell as a reference (d).

5. Lift your bicycle up a few centimetres and let it bounce onto the ground. If this causes any sort of noise, search for loosened bolts or components.

6. Finally, take a good look at the whole bicycle to detect any deformations, discolourations or cracks.

Only if your bicycle passed these checks without any problems should you ride back very carefully, taking the shortest possible route. Do not brake hard or accelerate and do not ride your bicycle out of the saddle. If you are in doubt about the performance of your bicycle, have yourself picked up by car, instead of taking any risk. Back home you need to check your bicycle thoroughly. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Bent parts made of aluminium must not be repaired, i.e. straightened, as the risk of breakage would still remain. This applies in particular to forks, handlebars, stems, cranksets and pedals. Be sure to replace them as a precaution.

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1.5 How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles.

1.5.1 Quick-Releases.

Your bicycle is 󷴲tted with quick-releases to ensure fast adjustments,

assembly and disassembly. Be sure to check whether all quick-releases are tight before you set off on your bicycle. Quick-releases should be handled with great care, as they directly af fect your safety.

Practise the use of quick-releases to avoid any accidents.

Quick-release mechanisms essentially consist of two operative elements:

1. The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force

via a cam when you close it (a).

2. The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with which the initial

tension on the threaded rod is set.

Make sure the levers of both quick-releases at the front and rear wheel are always on the side opposite to the chain. This will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way round. By contrast, with disc brakes the front quick-release is usually mounted with its lever to the right.

Never ride a bicycle without having 󹞬rst checked whether the

wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst riding will throw you off your bicycle!

If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it outside.

How to Fasten Components Securely.

Open the quick-release. The marking “Open“ on the lever should become visible now (b).

Do not touch the rotor directly after stopping – you may burn

your 󹞬ngers! Always let the rotor cool down before opening the

quick-releases!

Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read ”Close“ on the outside of the lever. When you start closing the lever you should feel virtually no resistance with your hand until the lever is at right angle to the frame/fork.

Over the second half of its travel the resistance you feel should increase

signi󷴲cantly. Towards the end of its travel you should need very much

strength to close the lever. Use the ball of your thumb to push it in all the

way while your 󷴲ngers pull on an immovable part, such as the fork or the

rear stay (c), but not on a rotor or spoke.

Page 17

In its end position, the lever should be parallel to the bicycle, i.e. it should not stick out to the side ((d) p. 12). The lever should lie close to the frame or the fork so that it cannot be opened accidentally.

To check whether the lever is securely locked apply pressure to the end of the hand lever and try to turn it while it is closed. If you can turn the lever around, open it and increase the initial tension. Screw the tightening nut on the opposite side clockwise by half a turn. Close the lever and check it again for tightness.

Finally, lift the bicycle a few centimetres so that the wheel no longer touches the ground and hit the tyre from above (a). If it is properly

fastened, the wheel will remain 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed in the drop-outs of the frame

without any rattling noise.

If your seat post is equipped with a quick-release mechanism, check

whether the saddle is 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed by trying to twist it relative to the frame

(b).

With insuf󹞬ciently closed quick-releases and thru axles the

wheels can come loose, thus creating a serious risk of accident!

If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases (c), be sure to lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it outside.

As an anti-theft measure you can replace the quick-releases by special locks (d). They can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

With the DT Swiss RWS system the clamping force is not created via a cam, but by tightening a bolted connection with a lever.

Tighten the system by turning the lever clockwise while holding the clamping nut tight.

Depending on frame or fork the lever may touch either frame or fork during tightening. If it does, pull out the lever, turn it back, let it engage again before retightening.

In its end position, the lever should be parallel to the bicycle, i.e. it should not stick out. The lever should lie close to the frame or the fork so that it cannot be opened accidentally.

Finally, lift the bicycle a few centimetres so that the wheel no longer touches the ground and hit the tyre from above. If it is properly fastened,

the wheel will remain 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed in the drop-outs of the frame without

any rattling noise.

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1.5.2 Thru Axles.

Thru axles are mounted when the bicycle has to withstand high stress occurring e.g. during freeriding, downhill riding etc. or jumps. They provide suspension forks with a suitable stiffness.

Before mounting or replacing a fork/wheel combination, be sure to read the operating instructions of the respective sus-

pension fork or wheel manufacturer 󹞬rst.

Notes on How to Mount Thru Axle Wheels.

There is a wide range of thru axle systems available now. Some systems are tightened with quick-releases. Other systems may require special tools for assembly or disassembly (a+b).

Be sure to read the respective manual before doing any assembly work.

If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

Improperly mounted wheels may throw you off your bicycle or result in serious accidents!

Check the fastening after one to two hours in use and then ever y 20 hours of use.

For the removal of the front wheel you may need tools (c) depending on fork manufacturer and thru axle system. To remove the wheel, loosen the axle support at the fork and remove the axle completely from the hub.

To remount the front wheel proceed in the reverse order. Make sure all bolts/quick-release systems are tightened properly.

To mount the axle use only the tools recommended by the

manufacturer. Make it a rule to use a torque wrench (d). Tighten

carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in

small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the

proper 󹞬t of the component. Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer! A too tight 󹞬xing of the axle can damage the axle or the fork leg.

Check the bolts after one to two hours of use and then every 20 hours.

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2 INTENDED USE.

2.1 General Overview.

Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and Country”.

2.1.1 Cruise Bike (a+b).

Due to their design and equipment this type of bicycle is not intended to be used on public roads. If you intend to use this type of bicycle on pub-

lic roads, it must be 󷴲tted with the devices and equipment prescribed

for this purpose (see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads”).

These bicycles are for cycling off public roads on hard-surface tracks, trails and bicycle routes through forests.

Cruise bikes are designed for a permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage, trailer load and bicycle) of 125 kg.

The safety-relevant equipment and components required for these bicycles are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be checked by the user or BMW partner at regular intervals and repaired, if necessary. This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than the intended one. Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance with the safety-relevant information in this manual may result in failure of the bicycle. Manufacturers and BMW partners cannot be held liable for damage resulting thereof.

This type of bicycle is not suitable for riding off-road or in any kind of competition.

2.1.2 Touring Bike (c+d).

Due to their design and components, e.g. with active and passive lighting devices, this type of bicycle is intended to be used on public roads and hard-surface tracks. Furthermore, it can be used for riding on easy terrain, e.g. on tracks and designated bicycle routes through the forests.

Permissible overall load 140 kg. Maximum trailer load 40 kg. The maximum weight limit for pannier racks is 25 kg.

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This type of bicycle is not suitable for any kind of competition.

2.1.3 Mountain Bike Cross Country (a) and Enduro (b).

Due to their design and equipment this type of bicycle is not intended to be used on public roads. If you intend to use this type of bicycle on pub-

lic roads, it must be 󷴲tted with the devices and equipment prescribed

for this purpose (see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads”).

Mountain bikes are designed to be used for off-road cycling and for riding over natural terrain (e.g. terrain of a mountain bike marathon and cross-country racing).

Mountain / cross bicycles are designed for a permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack and bicycle) of 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!

The safety-relevant equipment and components required for cycling off road are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be checked by the user or BMW partner at regular intervals and repaired, if necessary. This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than the intended one. Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance with the safety-relevant information in this manual may result in failure of the bicycle. Manufacturers and BMW partners cannot be held liable for damage resulting thereof.

This type of bicycle is neither suitable for downhill riding/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc., nor for competitive use, such as downhill, dual slalom, freeride races etc.

The intended use of all types of bicycles also includes the observance of the tightening torques, maintenance and service intervals, as prescribed on pages 88 to 91 of this manual (c).

Any information of the present manual is given in general terms for different types of bicycles and therefore may require supplementary details for some bicycles. For this reason, be sure to also obser ve the operating instructions of individual component manufacturers that are provided together with your bicycle (d). In the event these accompanying documents shall not answer all your questions, please contact your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust. They will be pleased to help you.

14 SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.

Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually

Lighting Check

Tyres Check pressure

Tyres Check tread and side walls

Brakes (rim-) Check lever tr avel, wear of brake pads, po sition of

pads relative to rim

Brakes (rim-) Test brakes in stationa ry

Brakes, (rim-), brake pads Clean

Brake cables Visual inspe ction

Brakes (disc-) Replace liquid

(Dot-liquids)

Suspension fork Check and retighten bolts, if necessary

Suspension fork Change oil or grease elastomers

Suspension seat post Service

Suspension seat post Check for play

Rims with rim brakes Check thickness , replace if necessa ry At the latest after se cond set of brake pads is worn d own

Bottom bracket Check for play

Bottom bracket Regrease (shell)

Chain Check and grease, if necessary

Chain Check and replace, if necessary After 800 k m (620 miles)

Crankset Check and retighten, if necessary

Painted / anodised surfaces Impregnate At l east every 6 months

Wheels / spokes Check for trueness and tension

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Bicycles that are delivered together with the present manual are only designed for single person use (a) and not for freehand cycling. Overstress may result in breakage or failure of essential components, such as e.g. frame, handlebars or fork. This can lead to an accident with unforeseeable consequences resulting in death!

Trailers (b) must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake systems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted professionally at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust. Full suspension models are generally not approved for trailer mounting.

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3 LEGAL REQUIREMENTS FOR

RIDING ON PUBLIC ROADS.

If you use your bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be equipped according to the regulations of your country.

Pay particular attention to your bicycle being equipped with the prescribed lighting set (a+b) and re󷴳ectors. Contact your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust and ask for information about the regulations in force in your country. Make yourself familiar with the road

traf󷴲c regulations for riding on public roads and off-road.

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4 USEFUL TIPS FOR CYCLING IN

TOWN AND COUNTRY.

4.1 Safe Cycling on Public Roads.

Keep in mind your bicycle is not only sports equipment (a), but also an eco-friendly means of transport. Many cities and villages are very committed to improving cycling conditions by creating cycle lanes and by allowing cyclists to ride the wrong way up one-way streets. When you set off on your bicycle always be aware that you are among the vulnerable road user groups. Bicycles do not have airbags, safety belts or a crush zone. A collision may have serious long-term negative consequences to your health. For this reason it is very important for you to ride with caution and try to avoid dangerous situations beforehand.

This manual cannot teach you how to ride or make you familiar with all rules of conduct on public roads. For more information please contact a road safety organization in your country, a bicycle club or comparable organizations.

Tips on how to ride safely on public roads:

a) Ensure your bicycle is roadworthy.

b) Make yourself familiar with the traf󷴲c rules in your country.

c) Ride with caution. Do not endanger or provoke other road users.

d) Cycling is not allowed on motorways. Danger to life! Please check

the regulations in your country.

e) For safety reasons you are not allowed to listen to music through

headphones on public roads. Do not use your mobile either.

f) Keep suf󷴲cient distance between you and the vehicles ahead. Their

stopping distance is usually signi󷴲cantly shorter.

g) In wet conditions please cycle with caution. With less grip your stop-

ping distance will get longer. At about 18 kmh (11 mph) you make about 5 metres per second. In wet conditions the stopping distance is twice to three-times as long as in dry conditions. Adapt your riding habits to the ever changing conditions on the street. Be sure to cycle at moderate speed and do not brake too late.

h) Switch on the lighting in poor visibility conditions, such as fog, rain,

dawn, dusk and darkness. Bright clothing will help you to get noticed, especially in poor light. Be sure to wear straight cut trousers or straps or cycle clips when you set off on your bicycle. A helmet and protective glasses (b) are a must for cycling safely.

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i) The following places are typical accident blackspots, where you

should cycle with particular caution:

• Junctions, even with a cycle lane parallel to the road; danger by cars

running in the same direction and turning to the left or right; danger by oncoming traf󷴲c.

• Crossing railway tracks can be hazardous for cyclists, as a trapped

front wheel can throw the cyclist off. Be sure to cross railway tracks at right angle.

• With a truck or bus besides you, e.g. in front of traf󷴲c lights. You may

be overlooked by the driver and are at risk of being run over when the truck or bus turns to the left or right.

• On cycle lanes: take care of loose dogs and children crossing the lane

unmindfully.

Make yourself familiar with the traf󹞬c rules before cycling on

public roads. Anticipate the mistakes of other road users!

Parents should take their time to introduce their children (a) to safe cycling on public roads. In Germany e.g. children must cycle on pavements until the age of eight. Between the age of eight and ten they are still allowed to do so. For crossing the street, children must get off their bicycle.

Parents are advised to sign their children up to courses where they learn how to safely cycle on public roads offered by road safety organizations or the like.

4.2 Environment - Cycling Off-Road.

A bicycle is the ideal means of transport for any nature lover (b). Today, cycling plays a major role in recreational activities. Cycling through parks and forest trails has become most popular. To protect nature and avoid

con󷴳icts between cyclists, hikers and municipal authorities it is crucial

that certain basic rules are followed.

To protect wildlife habitat and the 󷴳ora, please ride on signposted tracks and lanes only and avoid any off-road cycling across grassland, 󷴲elds

and through forest. Never ride through waters! Be sure when riding off road that you do not ride faster than your cycling skills allow.

Always be respectful to walkers and hikers and ready to brake when riding downhill or if the road ahead is not clear. Mind your speed and do not leave skid marks. Please throw your litter in litter bins or take it home.

Ensure an environmentally friendly disposal of lubricants, cleaning and care products after use. These agents must not be disposed of with domestic waste, in nature or emptied into drains.

Cycling off-road requires a great deal of skill, physical 󹞬tness and full concentration. Start with easy cycling tours and

increase the degree of dif󹞬culty step by step. Please note that

though looking easy, the tricks of a professional actually require years of training. Do not overestimate your riding skills!

Mountain bikers will 󹞬nd further information at International

Mountain Bicycling Association (www.imba.com).

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5 BRAKE SYSTEM.

5.1 General Information.

Brakes (a+b) are used for adjusting one’s speed to the surrounding

terrain and traf 󷴲c. In an emergency situation, the brakes must bring the

bicycle to a halt as quickly as possible. In the process of such emergency braking, the rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel (c). The rate of deceleration is primarily limited by the danger of the rear wheel losing contact with the ground resulting in an overturning of the bicycle and secondly by the tyres’ grip on the road. This problem becomes particularly acute when riding downhill. Therefore, in case of an emergency braking situation you have to try to put your weight back as far as possible.

Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mind that, due to the weight transfer, the front brakes can generate a far better braking effect on a surface with good grip.

The braking conditions on unpaved surfaces differ, i.e. overbraking the front wheel can make the wheel slip away. Therefore, be sure to practise braking on different kinds of sur face.

Wet weather reduces the braking power. Apply the brakes carefully when riding on wet or slippery surface, as the tyres can easily slip away. Therefore, reduce your speed when riding in such conditions.

Prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can lead to overheating of the rims in the case of rim brakes. This can damage the inner tube or make the tyre slip on the rim causing a sudden loss of air which could lead to a serious accident.

With disc brakes too, prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can lead to an overheating of the brake system. This can lead to a reduction of the braking power or brake failure. Risk of accident!

When riding downhill, get used to braking hard and then releasing the brake again, whenever the road surface and the situation allows for it. If you are in doubt about the braking action, stop and let the brake system cool down.

The assignment of brake lever to brake calliper can vary (d), e.g. left lever acts on front brake. Make yourself familiar with the lever-to-brake assignment or ask at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to change the brakes as you want them.

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Be careful while getting used to the brakes (a). Practise emergency stops in a place free of traf󹞬c until you are comfortable controlling your bicycle. This can save you from having accidents.

Wet weather reduces your braking power and the road grip of the tyres. Be aware of longer stopping distances when riding in the rain, reduce your speed and actuate the brakes carefully.

Ensure that braking surfaces are absolutely free of wax, grease

and oil. Risk of accident!

5.1.1 Brakes – How They Work and What to Do about Wear.

Actuating the hand lever on the handlebars (b) causes a brake pad to be pressed against a brake surface, and the ensuing friction slows down the wheel. If water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the braking surfaces,

this changes the coef󷴲cient of friction and deceleration is reduced. This

is why brakes respond with a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather.

In order to maintain their effectiveness, brakes need to be checked and readjusted regularly.

5.2 Rim Brakes.

The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads (c) as well as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt and over hilly terrain can accelerate wear on both braking surfaces.

Rims are provided with wear indicators, i.e. grooves (d) or circular indentations. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations are no longer visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pressure. This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which can cause an accident!

The grooves in the brake pads are worn down by braking. See a bicycle specialist shop of your trust and ask them to examine the remaining thickness of the rims when you have worn through your second set of brake pads at the latest. They have a special measuring device for determining the remaining thickness of the rims.

Wet weather reduces your braking power. Be aware of longer stopping distances when riding in the rain!

When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts. Your BMW partner will be pleased to order the respective original spare parts for you!

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Ensure that the brake pads are absolutely free of wax, grease

and oil.

Have your rims regularly inspected and measured at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust (a).

Brake cables that are damaged (b), e.g. frayed, should be replaced immediately, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, possibly causing an accident.

5.2.1 V-Brakes.

Common V-brake designs have two brake arms mounted separately on either side of the rim. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim.

5.2.1.1 Functional Check.

Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and

still suf󷴲ciently thick. You can judge the wear of the brake pads by the

appearance of the grooves. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves, it is time to replace them.

The brake pads must hit the rim simultaneously, 󷴲rst touching it with the front portion of their surface. At the moment of 󷴲rst contact the rear por-

tion of the pads should be a millimetre away from the rim. Viewed from the top the brake pads form a “V“ with the trough pointing to the front

(c). This V-shaped setting prevents the brakes from screeching when

applied.

The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an emergency stop.

Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a correctly adjusted brake.

Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims requires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job best left to a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

5.2.1.2 Power Modulator (d).

Some V-brakes are 󷴲tted with a power modulator that acts as brake

force control during braking hereby limiting the brake force.

This device is intended to prevent overbraking and a blocking of the front wheel.

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An inappropriately adjusted power modulator may result in severe accidents. Ask at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust

about the system your bicycle is 󹞬tted with.

5.2.1.3 Synchronising and Readjusting.

Almost all brake designs have a bolt located next to one or both brake callipers for adjusting the initial spring tension (a). Adjust this bolt carefully until the distance between brake pads and rim is the same on either side.

To adjust the brakes, unscrew the knurled lock ring located at the point where the brake cable enters the brake lever on the handlebars (b).

Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few turns. This reduces

the free travel of the brake lever. Keeping the adjusting bolt 󷴲rm, tighten

the lock ring against the brake lever mount. This prevents the adjusting bolt from coming loose by itself.

Ensure that the slot of the bolt faces neither for ward nor upward, as this would permit water or dirt to enter.

Always test the brakes’ function while stationary after adjusting them, making sure the brake pads engage fully with the rim when you pull them hard.

5.3 Disc Brakes.

The most striking feature of disc brakes (c) is that they combine outstanding braking power with good weather resistance. They respond a lot faster in wet conditions than rim brakes do and achieve their normal high braking power within a very short time. They require fairly little maintenance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. However, they tend to be noisy when they are wet.

New brake pads have to be bedded in before they reach their optimal braking performance. For this purpose, accelerate the bicycle 30 to 50 times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it

to a halt each time. This procedure is 󹞬nished, when the force

required at the lever for braking has stopped decreasing.

The brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, allowing you to operate them with optimal ef fectiveness. In most cases this is done by means of a small Allen bolt located directly at the brake lever (d). You may need to readjust the brake pads, as well. Please read the manual of the brake manufacturer.

With mechanical disc brakes the travel of the brake lever becomes longer as the brake pads wear down ((a) p. 25). It is therefore necessary to readjust these brakes regularly. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

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If your brake system works with DOT brake 󹞭uid, the latter

needs to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by the manufacturer.

The manufacturers of disc brakes usually deliver their products with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them carefully before removing a wheel or doing any maintenance work.

Disc brakes get hot in use. For this reason do not touch the brakes directly after stopping, especially after a long downhill ride.

Do not open the brake lines. Brake 󹞭uid can be very unhealthy

and damaging to the paint if it leaks out.

5.3.1 Checking Hydraulic Disc Brakes.

Regularly check the lines (b) and connections for leaks while pulling on

the lever. If brake 󷴳uid leaks out, contact your BMW partner immediately,

as a leak can render your brakes inef fective.

Check the pads for wear by inspecting the thickness of the braking material attached to the backing plate within the brake calliper (c) or view through the window on the upper side of the calliper (d). If there is approximately 1mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the pads according to the manufacturer’s instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.

Dirty brake pads and rotors can lead to drastically reduced braking power. Therefore, make sure the brake remains free of

oil and other 󹞭uids, especially when you clean your bicycle or

grease the chain. Dirty brake pads can under no circumstances be cleaned, they must be replaced! Rotors can be cleaned with warm water and mild soap. There are also special brake cleaners available.

Loose connections and leaky brake lines drastically impair

braking power. If you 󹞬nd leaks in the brake system or buckled

lines, contact your BMW partner immediately.

The manufacturers of hydraulic disc brakes usually deliver their products with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them carefully before removing a wheel or doing any maintenance work.

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5.4 Roller, Drum and Back-Pedal Brakes.

These types of brakes are hardly found any more and only still common on touring bikes (a). The brake mechanism of these brakes is fully enclosed and combined with a geared hub. Their brake pads and surfaces

are largely protected against the in󷴳uences of the weather.

5.4.1 Checking and Readjusting Hand-Operated Brakes.

Check whether the inner cables of the Bowden cables in the area of the grips and brake itself are still in sound condition. They must not be frayed. Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as they can snap. Brakes that have been adjusted at the brake lever only can lose their braking power.

Regularly check whether you get a positive braking response before the lever touches the handlebars (b).

To a certain extent, wear of the brake pads can be compensated directly at the hand lever. Unscrew the union nut on the bolt through which the cable enters the lever and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the desired travel.

Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slot of the bolt does not face upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high amount of water or dirt to enter (c).

Now check the functioning of the brake and see to it that the brake pads do not drag along the braking surface when you release the brake lever and let the wheel spin.

Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake calliper change its position. This can reduce braking power which may

be insuf 󷴲cient in an extreme case! After having repeatedly readjusted

your brake on your own, ask your BMW partner or at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to do this delicate job.

If you intend to do any further adjustment on your brake, be sure to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer before you start. In case you are in doubt, ask your BMW partner for help.

Check regularly whether the torque support is still 󷴲rmly attached to the

frame or fork (d). Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum

tightening torque! You will 󷴲nd the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or

in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

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The risk of overheating is particularly high with closed brake systems (a). Brake overheating occurs on prolonged (steep) downhill rides with permanent brake dragging. Brake fade is a result thereof which, in extreme cases, may lead to brake failure. Therefore, if you notice a reduction of the braking effect, stop and let the brake system cool down. Sometimes, it will be enough to operate the front and rear brake in an alternating

pattern. If that will not suf 󷴲ce, stop for a couple of minutes before you set

off again.

5.4.2 Checking and Readjusting Back-Pedal Brakes.

This brake is operated by pedalling backward. For maximum braking power, step on one of the pedals in its rearmost position with the cranks horizontal. With SRAM models braking power is increased when you have switched to a lower gear beforehand.

With back-pedal brakes the chain tension has to be checked regularly

(b). The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should

not be more than two centimetres.

If there is any play, have the chain tightened by your BMW partner!

Check regularly whether the brake torque arm (torque support) (c) is still 󹞬rmly attached to the frame or fork. Use a torque wrench (d) and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!

You will 󹞬nd the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in

the manuals of the component manufacturers.

Please note that there is no rear wheel braking with a slipped chain! Risk of accident!

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6 DRIVE SYSTEM.

The drive system includes all bicycle parts that are crucial for the transmission of the pedalling power to the rear wheel (a+b), i.e. bottom bracket, crankset-chainrings, pedals, sprockets and chain.

6.1 Gears.

The gears on your bicycle serve to adjust your pedalling power to the terrain you are riding on and the desired speed. A low gear (where in the case of derailleur gears the chain runs on the small chainring and a large sprocket) allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force. You must, however, pedal relatively fast. High gears (large chainring, small sprocket) are for riding downhill. Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres forward at correspondingly high speed.

Derailleur gears always work according to the following principle:

Large chainring – high/heavy gear – higher transmission Small chainring – low/easy gear – lower transmission Large sprocket – low/easy gear – lower transmission Small sprocket – high/heavy gear – higher transmission

Normally, the shifters are mounted as follows:

Right shifter – sprockets Left shifter – chainrings

On level ground your pedalling speed, also referred to as cadence, should be higher than 60 strokes a minute.

6.1.1 Bottom Bracket - Crankset.

The bottom bracket (c+d) composed of ball bearings, cups, sealing rings and spindle normally comes as a compact unit. This is to protect the sealed cartridge bottom bracket against penetrating dirt, water or mud. The compact bottom bracket is maintenance free and delivered without play. Check the bottom bracket bearing in the bottom bracket shell for play at regular intervals. The crank arms may come loose in

use over time. Regularly check whether they are 󷴲rmly attached to the

spindle. Grab the crank and try to jiggle it forcefully. It must be absolutely free of play.

If the crank arms have play, the crankset mounting may sustain damage. Risk of breakage!

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6.2 Derailleur Gears.

Derailleur gears are currently the most effective type of power transmis-

sion on bicycles. With specially designed sprocket teeth, 󷴳exible chains

and indexed lever positions, gear shifting has become very easy. Some systems have an indicator on the handlebars showing the currently used gear.

Modern mountain and touring bikes can have up to 27 speeds. It is not advisable to use gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the

chain, as this reduces power transmission ef󷴲ciency and hastens wear of

the chain. An unfavourable run of the chain is when the smallest chainring is used with one of the two or three outermost (smallest) sprockets

(a) or when the largest chainring is used with one of the inmost (largest)

sprockets (b).

Always wear straight-cut trousers or use cycle clips or the like

chainrings.

Shifting gears under load, i.e. while pedalling hard, can make the chain slip. At the front derailleur the chain may even slip off the chainrings and result in an accident.

At least the durability of the chain will be shortened considerably.

6.2.1 Derailleur Gears – How They Work and How to Operate Them on Mountain, Cruise and Touring Bikes.

Gear shifting is initiated by actuating a shifter, a combined brake and gear lever unit or by a short turn of the wrist with the twist grip, as the case may be.

With Shimano Rapid󹕦re Plus shifters pressing the large shifter moves the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pulling the small lever, located in front of the handlebars from the rider’s viewpoint and operated with

the index 󷴲nger (index 󷴲nger lever) shifts the chain towards the smaller

sprockets. This means that any gear shift made by pushing the large thumb shifter on the right produces a lower gear, while pressing the large thumb shifter on the left moves the chain to the larger chainring, thus producing a higher gear.

The Shimano Rapid󹕦re Plus shifters with 2-way release (d) (e.g.

XTR from model 2007 on) work according to the usual Rapid󷴲re principle (see above). The small index 󷴲nger lever can be operated with the

thumb, as well. The chain runs to the small chainring or small sprockets. You can shift several gears with one action. Pulling or pushing the shifting lever shortly results in a single gear change, pulling or pushing it long leads to two gear shifts.

Shimano Rapid Rise derailleurs use a return spring with reversed spring direction. Shifting with this derailleur is reversed from common derailleurs, i.e. actuating the big shifter with the right hand leads to a higher gear.

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Pressing the large shifting lever of SRAM trigger shifters (a) located under the handlebars with your thumb, shifts the chain to the bigger chainrings and larger sprockets. The smaller shifter, also located under the handlebars, but a bit higher than the big one, is pushed with the thumb, too, and makes the chain move to the smaller chainrings and smaller sprockets.

The principle of twist grips is different (b). Twisting the right-hand grip towards you moves the chain to a larger sprocket giving you a lower gear, while the same movement on the left produces a higher gear by moving the chain to the larger chainrings. The shifting direction may vary in this case, as well.

Practise switching gears in a place free of traf 󹞬c until you are

familiar with the functioning of the levers or twist grips of your bicycle.

It is therefore crucial when switching gears to continue pedalling smoothly and without too much force. Do not shift under load, as this will shorten the durability of the chain considerably. Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can get jammed between chain stay and chainrings. Avoid shifting gears while pedalling with force, in particular when shifting with the front derailleur.

Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the

chain, as this will increase wear.

6.3 Checking and Readjusting Derailleur Gears.

If you have purchased your bicycle from a BMW partner, the derailleur gears were carefully adjusted before delivery. However, Bowden cables

may stretch a little on the 󷴲rst kilometres/miles, making gear shifting

imprecise.

Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an experienced mechanic.

If you want to try adjusting it yourself, be sure to read the operating instructions of the manufacturer. If you have any problems with the gears, please contact your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

6.3.1 Rear Derailleur.

Increase the tension of the Bowden cable by turning the adjustable cable stop at the shifting lever (c) or the adjusting bolt through which it runs into the rear derailleur of mountain, cruise and touring bikes (d).

Rear derailleurs are not all equipped with an adjusting bolt!

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b d

To do so, shift to the smallest sprocket (a) and turn the clicking bolts anticlockwise in half turns until the cable is slightly tensioned.

After tensioning the Bowden cable check whether the chain immediately

climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To 󷴲nd out you either have to turn

the cranks by hand (b) or ride the bicycle and change gears.

If the chain easily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether it just as easily shifts to the small sprockets. You may need several tries.

Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an

experienced mechanic. Please observe the instructions of the

gear manufacturer. If you have any problems with the gears, contact your BMW partner.

Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turning the cranks and shifting through you can easily check the function.

6.3.2 Checking the Limit Stops.

The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screws which limit the movement range of the derailleur, thus preventing the derailleur and chain from colliding with the spokes or the chain from dropping off the smallest sprocket. The limit screws are adjusted by your BMW partner or at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust. They do not alter their position during normal use.

If your bicycle has tipped over or the rear derailleur received a blow, the rear derailleur or its mount might be bent. It is advisable to check its range of movement and readjust the limit screws, if necessary, after such an incident or after mounting new wheels on your bicycle (c).

Shift with the right shifting lever to the highest gear. The inner cable is relaxed and the chain running on the smallest sprocket. Look from the rear of the bicycle at the cassette and check whether the teeth of the smallest sprocket and the teeth of the guide pulley are all in a perfectly vertical line (d).

If necessar y, correct the position by means of the limit screws. The limit screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for low gear ((a) p. 32). In this case high gear stands for high transmission ratio, i.e. with the chain running on the smallest sprocket.

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If the screws are not marked, you will have to 󷴲nd out by trial and error.

Turn one of the screws by counting the number of turns and watch the rear derailleur. If it does not move, you are turning the wrong one. Turn

back the counted rotations to 󷴲nd its original position.

Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleur towards the wheel and anticlockwise to shift it away from the wheel.

Continue by shifting the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket. Make sure the rear derailleur does not collide with the spokes. When the chain runs on the largest sprocket see whether you can shift the rear derailleur even further by moving the shifting lever to the end of its travel. Then press the rear derailleur further towards the spokes by hand (b). Spin the wheel. If the derailleur cage moves towards the spokes or if the chain begins to move beyond the largest sprocket, the derailleur movement range needs to be limited. Turn the limit screw marked “L” clockwise until the rear derailleur is clear of the spokes.

Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traf󹞬c, after adjusting the gears of your bicycle.

Improperly adjusted limit stops or a bent rear derailleur mount can result in a severe damage to the bicycle and a rear wheel blocking. Risk of accident!

6.3.3 Front Derailleur.

The range within which the front derailleur (c) keeps the chain on the chainring without itself touching the chain is very small. This adjustment is a job best left to your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

It is often better to let the chain drag slightly on the derailleur than to risk having the chain fall off the chainring, which would interrupt the power train. The front derailleur, just like the rear derailleur, has limit screws marked “H” and “L” that reduce the movement range.

As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject to lengthening and hence to reduced precision in gear changing.

If necessar y, shift to the small chainring and increase the tension of the Bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at the entry to the gear shifter (d) or at the frame under the down tube.

Always check after an accident whether the guide plates of the front derailleur are still parallel to the chainrings!

Adjusting the front derailleur is a very delicate job. Improper adjustment can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting the power train. Risk of accident!

Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traf󹞬c, after adjusting the gears of your bicycle.

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6.4 Multi-Speed Hubs (Internal Gear Hubs).

Two advantages of multi-speed hubs (a) are their enclosed design and the fact that you can switch through all gears by the same lever. Besides this, the chain lasts a lot longer than with derailleur gears, provided it is serviced regularly.

Multi-speed or internal gear hubs from Shimano are available with a free-wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or roller brake, or with an integrated drum brake, also referred to as back-pedal brake. The latter is operated by pedalling backward. The best braking power is achieved with the pedals on a horizontal level.

Multi-speed or internal gear hubs from SRAM are available with a free-wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or drum brake, or with an integrated drum brake, also referred to as back-pedal brake. The latter is operated by pedalling backward. The best braking power is achieved with the pedals on a horizontal level and in low gears.

Rohloff speedhubs are available with a free-wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated rim brake (mechanical or hydraulic), or with a disc brake (mechanical or hydraulic).

6.4.1 Multi-Speed Hubs - How They Work and How to Use Them.

Internal gear hubs are equipped with a twist grip or thumb shifter for changing gears as well as with an indicator showing the current gear. According to the hub manufacturer you can either continue pedalling without load on the pedals or freewheel. Read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner! In any case, make sure changing gears makes as little noise as possible.

SRAM twist grip shifters (b): To change gears, twist the grip, stop pedalling for a moment and do not move the pedals. SRAM I-Motion also allows gear shifting during pedalling and in stationary.

Twist grip shifters for Shimano Nexus (c) and Rohloff hubs (d): Continue pedalling during shifting. However, to ensure a jerk-free and low-noise gear shifting, be sure to reduce your pedalling power.

Practise switching gears in a place free of traf 󹞬c until you are

familiar with the functioning of the shift levers or twist grips of your bicycle.

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6.4.2 Checking and Readjusting.

Multi-speed hubs need not be adjusted very often. The adjusting mechanism is mainly located at the hub (a) or at the gear box. There are two (red) marks which have to be brought into alignment by adjusting the cable directly at the lever or twist grip (see adjustment of the derailleur gear). Carefully read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

Regularly check the reliable 󹞬t of the bolted connection of the

hub and the torque arm to the frame (b).

If you have a Rohloff speed hub, be sure to make an oil change annually or after 5,000 km (3,100 miles). If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

6.5 Combined Derailleur/Hub Gears.

These gear systems combine the properties of both gear systems. There is one shifter that is intended to switch the speed hub, whereas a second shifter operates either the front derailleur of the derailleur gear or the rear derailleur.

The Shimano Intego system (c+d) is available with a free-wheel only, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or roller brake.

The SRAM Dual Drive system is also available with a free-wheel only, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V-, disc or drum brake.

Make yourself familiar with your gear system and the brakes in

a place free of traf󹞬c.

The proper adjustment of the derailleur-hub gear system is a job best left to a skilled mechanic. Before doing any adjusting, be sure to read the instructions of the gear manufacturer.

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6.5.1 Combined Derailleur/Hub Gears - How They Work and How to Use Them.

With a Shimano Intego gear system you can shift through the gears of the speed hub with the shifter and lever on the left side.

The thumb of your right hand switches the 8-speed derailleur gear. On both sides the big shifters are for the higher (heavier) gears.

With the SRAM Dual Drive (a) both shifters are with one hand. The slide shifter is operated with the thumb to choose a primary transmission for the terrain you are riding on. To change this gear, stop pedalling for a moment without moving the pedals.

The SRAM Dual Drive 27 speed is also available with two separate trigger shifters!

The twist grip is to switch through the gears of the derailleur gear. To do so, please continue pedalling with reduced power.

6.5.2 Readjusting.

The speed hub of the combined gear system is adjusted, as described in chapter “Multi-Speed Hubs (Internal Gear Hubs)”, the derailleur gears as described in chapters “Derailleur Gears” and “Rear Derail- leur”.

Regularly check the reliable 󹞬t of the bolted connection of the

hub torque arm to the frame (b).

6.6 Crank System.

The SRAM Hammerschmidt (c+d) allows two different gear ratios.

Shifting is performed with a trigger shifter on the left side. Pressing the big thumb shifter makes for a lower gear ratio.

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6.7 Chain.

6.7.1 Chain Maintenance.

Regular and correct lubrication of your bicycles chain makes for enjoyable riding and prolongs its service life. It is not the quantity, but the distribution and regular application of lubricant that counts.

Clean the dirt and oil off your chain with an oily rag from time to time (a). Special degreasers are not necessary.

Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links (b). To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the rollers of the lower run of the chain while you turn the crank.

Once this is done, turn the cranks a few more times; then let the chain

rest for a few minutes so that the lubricant can disperse.

Finally wipe off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around during riding or can collect road dirt.

For the sake of the environment, use biodegradable lubricants only. Bear in mind that some of the lubricant can end up on the ground, especially in wet conditions.

Make sure the braking surfaces of the rims, the rotors and the brake pads remain clear of lubricants, as the brakes will fail otherwise.

6.7.2 Chain Wear.

Although the chain is one of the parts of a bicycle that wears, there are still ways for you to prolong its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which run the chain in the straightest line between the sprockets and chainrings and get in the habit of high cadence pedalling.

Chains of bicycles with derailleur gears are worn out after approx. 800 to 2,500 km (500 to 1,550 miles) or 40 to 125 hours of use, according to the type of bicycle. Heavily stretched chains impair the operation of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the wear of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It is therefore advisable to check the condition of the chain at regular intervals.

To check chain wear, run the chain on the largest chainring. Take the

chain between your thumb and index 󷴲nger and try to lift it off the teeth.

If you can lift it off clearly, it is stretched and should be replaced (c).

In a bicycle specialist shop of your trust they have accurate measuring instruments for precise chain inspection (d). Replacing the chain should ideally be left to an expert, as this requires special tools. In addition, you need to select a chain matching your gear system.

An improperly joined or heavily worn chain can break and may cause an accident.

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6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed Bicycles and Multi-Speed Hubs.

The chain tension of single speed bicycles has to be checked and retensioned, if necessary, after approx. 1,000 km (620 miles) or 50 hours of use. The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be more than two centimetres (a).

Release the rear wheel axle bolts or nuts with an appropriate tool.

Adjust the chain tension by pulling the rear wheel to the rear or by releasing/tightening the chain tensioner. The chain tension is correct when the amount of vertical play midway between chainring and sprocket does not exceed two centimetres with a tightened rear wheel. Check the vertical play in several areas. Furthermore, you should be able to rotate the crank without resistance.

Adjust the rear wheel in the centre of the rear drop-outs by using the chain adjuster as limit stop.

Tighten the rear wheel axle nuts with a torque wrench.

The chain adjusters (b) only serve to tension the chain and

to pre-adjust the rear wheel. They are not designed to 󹞬x the

wheel in its position or to avoid any falling out.

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7 WHEELS AND TYRES.

The wheel consists of the hub, the spokes and the rim. The tyre is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running around the trough of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the spoke nipples and the edges of the rim trough, which are often sharp (a).

The wheels are subjected to considerable stress through the weight of the rider and any carried baggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces and terrain. Although wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered accurately trued, this does not prevent the spokes and nipples

from losing a little tension on the 󷴲rst kilometres/miles. Therefore, ask

at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to check and true up the wheels after you have bedded them in over about 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles) or 5 to 15 hours of use.

Check the wheels regularly, especially after bedding them in. It will rarely be necessar y to tighten the spokes (b).

7.1 Tyres, Tubes, Rim Tape, Valves,

In󹕧ation Pressure.

The tyres should provide the friction needed for carrying the bicycle forward on the riding surface. At the same time they should grant minimum rolling friction and enhance the rider’s comfort by absorbing small shocks. Both the rolling friction and the grip depend on the nature

of the tyre carcass, the rubber compound and the type of tyre pro󷴲le.

At a bicycle specialist shop of your trust they will be pleased to help you choose from the numerous types of tyres (c+d).

If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider the sizing system and

the actual size of the old tyre. The latter is speci󷴲ed in two different units

on the side of the tyre. One of the sizes is the standardised size in millimetres which is more precise, e.g. the number sequence 52-559 means

that the tyre is 52 mm wide when fully in󷴳ated and has an inner diameter

of 559 millimetres. The other size is indicated in inches (26x2.35).

Mounting a new tyre of another dimension might possibly cause the tip of your shoe to touch the front wheel while steering. During compression of the suspension system a wheel can get jammed, as well. Risk of accident!

Tyres have to be in󷴳ated to the correct air pressure. Properly in󷴳ated tyres are also more resistant to punctures. An insuf󷴲ciently in󷴳ated tyre

can easily get pinched (“snakebite”), when it goes over a sharp kerb.

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The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side of the tyre or on the type label (a). The lower of the two pressure speci󷴲cations makes for better cushioning for lightweight riders and is therefore best for cycling on a rough surface. Rolling resistance decreases

with growing pressure, but so does comfort. Highly in󷴳ated tyres are

therefore most suitable for heavy riders and for riding on tarred roads.

In󷴳ation pressure is often given in the old system of units, i.e. in psi

(pounds per square inch). The table below (b) gives the most common pressure values in terms of both systems.

Tyres allowing an in󹞭ation pressure of 5 bars or more have to be mounted on hook bead rims, identi󹞬able by the designation

“C“. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air. Therefore, an inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre to retain the air pressure.

This does not apply to tubeless wheel/tyre systems (tubeless/USTtyres/NoTubes systems). In this case, the rim and the tyre hold the air without inner tube. For more information read the chapter on UST tyres further below or the respective instructions, before doing any work on such kind of tyres.

If you have a bicycle with tubeless tyres, please read the instructions of the tyre/rim manufacturer.

Treat your tyres well, in particular avoid sharp edges where possible! Never in󹞭ate your tyres beyond the maximum permissible pressure, otherwise one of them might burst or come off the rim during the ride. Risk of accident!

There are three valve types in general use on today’s bicycles:

1. Sclaverand or Presta valves (c): This type is nowadays used on almost all types of bicycles. It is designed to withstand extremely high pressures.

2. Schrader or car valve (d): This is an adapted car tyre valve which is mainly used on mountain bikes.

3. Dunlop or Woods valve, the usual valve.

These three valve types are 󷴲tted with a plastic cap to protect them from

dirt.

The car valve can be in󷴳ated with a suitable pump directly after removing

the protective cap.

With Presta valves you 󷴲rst have to undo the small knurled nut a little and

depress it carefully until air starts to escape ((a) p. 40). Check the nut is tightened and seated in its stem, otherwise air may slowly leak out.

psi bar kPa psi bar k Pa

30 2.1 210

6.2 620

40 2.8 280 100 6.9 690

50 3.5 350 110 7.6 760

60 4.1 410 120 8.3 830

70 4.8 480 130 9.0 900

80 5.5 550 140 9.7 970

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Tyres with car valves can conveniently be in󷴳ated at car 󷴲lling stations

with a compressed air dispenser. The same applies to Presta valves

󷴲tted with a special adapter. A compressed air dispenser must be used very carefully as you may other wise overin󷴳ate the tyre and make it

burst. To let out air, press the needle in the centre of the car valve or the knurled nut of the Presta valve using e.g. a spanner/key.

Hand pumps are often unsuitable for in󷴳ating tyres to high pressures. A

better choice is a foot-operated or a track pump equipped with a pressure gauge (b).

Always ride your bicycle with the prescribed tyre pressure and check the pressure at regular intervals, at least once a week.

Replace tyres with a worn tread or with brittle or frayed sides. Dampness and dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure. The inner tube might burst. Risk of accident!

Obser ve the maximum pressure value of the rim. The pressure is dependent on the tyre width! You will 󹞬nd the values in the

enclosed manuals of the rim manufacturers.

7.2 Rim Trueness, Spoke Tension.

To obtain true running of the wheel, the tension exerted by the spokes has to be distributed evenly around the rim (c). If the tension of a single spoke changes, e.g. as a result of riding fast over a kerb or of a loose nipple, the tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced and the wheel will no longer run true. The functioning of your bicycle may even be impaired before you notice the wobbling appearance of a wheel that has gone out of true.

With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces. An untrue wheel can impair your braking power. It is therefore advisable to check the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this purpose lift the wheel off the ground and spin it with your hand. Watch the gap between the rim and the brake pads. If the gap varies by more than a millimetre, you should ask at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to true up the wheel (d).

Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-to-

side wobbles, the brake pads of rim brakes can miss the rim and get caught in the spokes! This normally instantly jams the wheel and throws you off your bicycle.

Loose spokes must be tightened at once. Otherwise the load on the other spokes and the rim will increase.

Truing (retruing) wheels is a dif󹞬cult job which you should de󹞬nitely leave to a mechanic of a bicycle specialist shop of

your trust!

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7.3 Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases.

The wheels are attached to the frame at the hub axles. Each axle is clamped tight in the drop-outs (a) by means of a quick-release.

Quick-releases require no tools at all. Just release the lever (b), unscrew it a few turns, if necessary, and take out the wheel (see chapter “How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles“).

However, a thief will 󷴲nd this just as easy to do! As an anti-theft measure

you can replace the quick-releases by special locks. They can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key (c).

Never ride a bicycle without having 󹞬rst checked whether the

wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst riding will throw you off your bicycle!

If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it outside.

7.4 Wheel Fastening with Thru Axle

Systems.

There is a wide range of different thru axle systems (d) currently available. Some systems are tightened with quick-releases. Other systems may require special tools for assembly or disassembly.

Check the fastening after one to two hours in use and then ever y 20 hours of use.

For more information read chapter “How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles”.

Always obser ve the enclosed instructions of the fork manufacturer.

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7.5 Puncture.

Flat tyres are the most common cause of puncture during cycling. However, as long as you have the necessary tools for changing tyres and tubes and a spare tube or a repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle ride. For bicycles with quick-releases all you need in addition are two tyre levers and a pump (a).

Be sure to read chapters “Wheel Mounting” and“How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles” before wheel removal. If

you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

7.5.1 Wheel Removal.

Step one with the brakes of mountain, cruise and touring bikes

If your bicycle has rim brakes (cantilever or V-brakes) you 󷴲rst have to unhook the brake cable from the brake arm. To do this, grip the brake with one hand and press the brake pads and arms together. In this position it should be easy to disengage the usually barrel shaped nipple or, in the case of V-brakes, the outer cable.

If your bicycle has hydraulic rim brakes (b) from Magura, unlock its quick-release on one side of the brake and take it off the mounting bolt.

If your bicycle has drum or roller brakes and internal gear hubs, loosen the torque arm supporting the drive and braking force on the frame. Furthermore, you need to disconnect the shifting cables and the clickbox respectively before removing the wheel.

If you have hydraulic disc brakes, you should 󷴲rst check the exact position and condition of the brake pads and/or wear indicators (ear or nose-shaped metal protrusions) (c). In this way you will be able to tell after the removal whether the brake pads are still in their correct position. Read the brake manufacturer’s instructions!

Do not pull the (disc) brake lever with a removed wheel and make sure to mount the safety locks when removing the wheel.

Rotors can become hot, so let them cool down before removing a wheel.

Please read the operating instructions of the brake and the gear manufacturer.

If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest sprocket before removing the rear wheel (d). This shifts the rear derailleur right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel.

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Open the quick-release, as described in chapter “How to Use QuickReleases and Thru Axles”.

If you cannot remove the wheel after releasing the lever, this is due to the drop-out safety tabs. They come as metal catches which engage

with recesses in the drop outs. Just release the quick-release adjusting

nut a little and slip the wheel past the tabs.

You will 󷴲nd it easier to remove the rear wheel, when you pull the rear

derailleur slightly backwards (a). Lift the bicycle off the ground and give the wheel a gentle tap with your hand so that it drops out.

If you have a bicycle with thru axles, please read chapter “How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles”.

In case you are in doubt about how to handle thru axles, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

In the case of combined derailleur and internal gear hubs the click-

box must also be removed 󷴲rst before you can dismount the rear wheel,

as is the case with typical derailleur gear rear wheels.

7.5.2 Tyre Removal (Clincher, Folding Tyres).

Remove the cap and the fastening nut off the valve and de󷴳ate the tyre

completely (b). Press the tyre from the sides towards the centre of the

rim. You will 󷴲nd it easier to remove the tyre, if you do this around its

entire circumference.

Apply a plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyre about 5 cm beside the valve and lever the tyre out of the rim in this area (c). Hold the tyre lever tight in its position. Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a distance of about ten centimetres on the other side of the valve and lever the next portion of the bead over the edge of the rim.

After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you should normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever around the whole circumference. Now you can remove the inner tube (d). See to it that the valve does not get caught, as this can damage the inner tube. If necessary you can remove the whole tyre by pulling the other tyre bead off the rim. Repair the puncture according to the instructions of the repair kit manufacturer or replace the inner tube by a new one.

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If you have a puncture whilst riding, do not pull the whole inner tube out of the tyre. Leave the valve sticking through the rim,

in󹞭ate the inner tube and bring it close to your ear. In most

cases you can hear the air coming out. At home you can help yourself with a bucket of water where you can locate the hole by the bubbles. When you have found the hole, look for the cor-

responding place on the tyre and check it. Often, you will 󹞬nd

a foreign body sticking in the tyre, which ought to be removed. Otherwise another puncture can occur.

When you have removed the tyre, you should also check the rim tape

(a). It should lie squarely in the trough of the rim, covering all spoke nip-

ples, and should not be torn anywhere or brittle. In the case of double wall rims the tape must cover the entire rim base, but it should not be so broad as to stand up along the inside edges of the rim trough. Rim tapes for this type of rim should only be made of textile or durable plastic. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.

If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by the perforating object, replace the tyre as a precaution.

Dismounting a Rohloff rear wheel requires special handling. Please follow the enclosed Rohlof f instructions!

7.5.3 Tyre Mounting (Clincher, Folding Tyres).

When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter, such as dirt or sand, gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube in the process.

Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim (b). Using your thumbs, press the bead over the edge of the rim and then around the entire circumference. This should normally be possible without using tools.

Stick the valve of the tube through the hole in the rim (c). In󷴳ate the inner tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it into the tyre all the way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in the tube.

To 󷴲nish mounting the tyre, start at the opposite side of the valve. Using

your thumbs, press as much of the second bead of the tyre over the edge of the rim as you can (d). Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and squashed between tyre and rim. You can prevent this by

pushing the inner tube into the hollow of the tyre with a 󷴲nger as you

work along.

Work the tyre into the rim, approaching the valve symmetrically from both sides. Towards the end, you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part of the rim trough. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.

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Before 󷴲tting the tyre completely on the rim check again whether the

inner tube lies properly inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim using the balls of your thumbs (a).

If this does not work, you will have to use the tyre levers (b). Make sure the blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged.

Push the valve a little into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught between the rim and the tyre beads. Check whether the valve stands upright. If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube. To make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between

rim and bead, in󷴳ate the tyre a little and then move it sideways back

and forth between the sides of the rim. While doing this you can check whether the rim tape has shifted.

In󷴳ate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is

indicated on the side of the tyre.

Check the seating of the tyre by means of the “witness line” running around the side of the tyre just above the edge of the rim (c). The distance between the line and the edge of the rim should be even around the entire circumference of the tyre.

7.5.4 Removal of Tubeless Tyres (d).

De󷴳ate the tyre completely. Press the tyre from the sides towards the

centre of the rim, until both beads lie slack in the centre of the rim. Start removing the tyre at the point opposite the valve and lift one tyre bead

with your 󷴲ngers over the edge of the rim. Do not use tyre levers! Slip

the entire tyre bead over the rim. Then pull the other bead off the rim, as well.

7.5.5 Repair of Tubeless Tyres.

In the event of a puncture tubeless tyres also work with an inserted inner tube. First remove the perforating object, as far as available, from the tyre and remove the valve from the rim. Insert a slightly in󷴳ated new inner tube into the tyre. Mount the tyre as described below and make sure

it is properly seated in the rim and in󷴳ated to the speci󷴲ed pressure.

Tubeless tyres can be sealed on the inside with a conventional repair patch, as well. Observe the instructions of the repair kit manufacturer.

Improper mounting can lead to malfunctioning or even result in brake failure. Therefore, be sure to follow the instructions of the manufacturer included with the delivery.

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7.5.6 Mounting Tubeless Tyres.

Before mounting a tyre make sure it is free of dirt and lubricant on the inside and around the beads. Do not use tyre levers!

To prevent any damage, wet both beads all around with soapy water or with tyre mounting lubricant and press the tyre with your hands onto the rim.

Press one bead over its entire circumference over one edge of the rim and then the second tyre bead (a). Centre the tyre in the rim. Make sure the tyre is properly seated in the rim base and the beads lie symmetri-

cally on either side of the valve. In󷴳ate the tyre with a compressor or a

CO2-cartridge to the maximum permissible pressure so that it can get

seated on the rim. The permissible pressure is usually speci󷴲ed on the

side of the tyre.

Check whether the tyre is properly seated by inspecting the 󷴲ne witness

line (b) just above the rim edge. This line should be even to the rim all around the tyre. Starting from the maximum tyre pressure you can now reduce the pressure through the valve to suit your needs. Please observe the recommended tyre pressure range.

Tubeless tyres must be mounted on UST rims or UST wheels

(Mavic and other manufacturers) only.

7.5.7 Wheel Mounting.

Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs (c) and accurately centred between the fork legs or the seat and chain stays.

Make sure the quick-release, the drop-out safety tabs and the thru axle, if available, are correctly seated. For more information see chapter “How

to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles”.

If you have rim brakes, make sure you hook the brake cable back up immediately!

Mount the hydraulic rim brakes and close its quick-release immediately after 󹞬xing the wheel (d)! Make sure the brake pads touch the rim and not the tyre or the spokes.

If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake pads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between the brake pads and the wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators in their correct position. Make sure you guide the rotor between the brake pads carefully.

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After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake lever (a) and spin the wheel. The rotor should not drag on the brake caliper or on the brake pads.

Before riding again check that you have not let any grease or other lubricants get on the brake surfaces (b) or rotor while mounting the wheel.

Check whether the brake pads hit the rotors or braking surfaces of the rims. Make sure the wheel is properly seated and 󹞬rmly 󹞬xed in the dropouts. Always do a brake test as described in chapter “Before Every Ride“!

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8 HEADSET.

The headset (a) connects the fork to the frame, but allows it to move freely. It must turn with virtually no resistance, if the bicycle is to run straight, stabilising itself as it travels. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces expose the headset to considerable levels of stress. In this way it can become loose and go out of correct adjustment.

Riding the bicycle with a loose headset increases the stress on fork and bearings. The fork can break and throw you off your bicycle!

8.1 Checking the Headset.

Check the headset for play by placing your 󷴲ngers around the upper

headset cup (b).

Bring your weight to bear on the saddle, pull the front brakes with your

other hand and push the bicycle 󷴲rmly back and forth with the wheel

remaining on the ground. If the bearing has play, you will feel the upper headset cup moving relative to the upper bearing cap - visible as a small gap between the cup and the cap.

To check whether the bearing runs smoothly, lift the frame up until the front wheel no longer touches the ground. The handlebars should turn from far left to far right without feeling roughness or tightness at any point. Turning the bars should require only a little tap on the grips (c).

Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience

and should therefore be left to your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

If you want to adjust conventional headsets you will need special tools. If you nevertheless want to tr y adjusting it yourself, please read the operating instructions of the manufacturer carefully before you do!

Check the secure seat of the stem after having adjusted the bearings, by holding the front wheel between your knees and trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel (d). Otherwise, a loose stem can throw you off your bicycle.

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8.2 Readjusting a Conventional Headset.

The adjustment tolerance between there being play in the bearings and them being set too tight is very small. The bearings are susceptible to

damage. If you want to try it nevertheless, you need two large and 󷴳at

open-end wrenches (a).

Release the threaded top nut and tighten the upper threaded bearing cap a little clockwise. Retighten the top nut.

A too tight adjustment may damage the headset and impair the performance of the bicycle.

8.3 Readjusting an Aheadset®.

(*Aheadset® is a registered trade mark for threadless systems of DiaCompe)

The distinct feature of this system is that the stem does not sit within the fork steerer tube, but rather slips over the fork steerer tube, which in this case is threadless (b). The stem is thus an important part of the headset bearing. Its clamping force secures the bearing in the correct running position. Instead of special tools you need in most cases only one or two Allen keys as well as a torque wrench to adjust the Aheadset

. Release the clamping bolt(s) located on the side of the stem by one to two complete turns. Using an Allen key, gently tighten the countersunk adjusting bolt on top a little, e.g. by a quarter turn (c).

Do not overtighten the upper bolt, it only ser ves the purpose of adjusting the bearing play, not of securing the stem!

Re-align the stem with the frame so that the handlebars are not slanted when the wheel points straight ahead. Make sure the front wheel is in line with the top tube and the stem. Tighten the clamping bolts of the stem (d). Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tighten-

ing torque! You will 󷴲nd the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in

the manuals of the component manufacturers.

Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts the stem can crush the steerer tube.

Check the headset for play as described above. Take care not to overtighten the bearings, as this could easily damage them.

If you do not succeed in adjusting the bearing, this can have several reasons. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Check the secure seat of the stem by taking the front wheel between your legs and tr ying to turn the handlebars and stem relative to the wheel. A loose stem can throw you off your bicycle.

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9 SUSPENSION.

9.1 Glossary.

Spring rate or hardness:

The force required to compress the spring a given distance.

A higher rate indicates a higher force requirement per unit of length. With air springs a higher rate means a higher pressure (a).

Initial spring tension:

The initial spring tension of coil springs and elastomers can be set within a certain range. This makes the suspension respond only when exposed to a higher load. The spring rate remains, however, unchanged. Heavier riders cannot compensate a too soft spring rate with a higher initial tension.

Rebound damping:

The damping which controls the rate at which the fork extends after being compressed (b+c).

Compression damping:

The damping which controls the rate at which the fork compresses (c).

Sag:

The distance by which the rear shock or fork compresses (should compress) when the rider assumes his normal riding position while the bicycle is stationary.

Lockout (c+d):

Device blocking the fork or the damper from absorbing shocks thus ensuring a smooth riding on tarred roads without vibrations. A lockout must not be activated when riding off-road or downhill.

Platform damping:

Increases compression damping and helps eliminate bob. Compared to the lockout mechanism the suspension is not inactivated entirely.

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9.2 Suspension Forks.

9.2.1 Adjusting the Spring Rate.

Most mountain, cruise and touring bikes are equipped with suspension forks (a). This feature gives you better control of your bicycle when riding cross-country or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces the strain on you and your bicycle caused by the mechanical shocks from the terrain.

Suspension forks differ in their spring elements and in the way the damping is realised. Suspension is provided by coil springs, special types of plastic known as elastomers or sealed air compartments or combinations of these options. The damping is usually done by oil or by the self-damping properties of the elastomers.

For more information see the suspension glossary heading this chapter.

In order to work optimally, the fork has to be adjusted to the weight of the rider and the intended purpose. Be sure to have this adjustment carried out by a bicycle specialist shop of your trust before delivery. With an air

sprung suspension fork you have to in󷴳ate it before your 󷴲rst ride. The

fork adjustment depends on the rider’s weight and the sitting posture.

Please bear in mind that the suspension fork should sag a little under the rider’s weight. When the front wheel passes through a depression in the ground, the spring extends and the suspension fork will smooth out the uneven surface. If the selected air pressure or initial spring tension is too high, this effect is lost because the wheel will already be fully extended. This means the loss of an important feature affecting both safety and comfort.

Cross-country and marathon racers usually run less sag than downhillers or more comfort loving freeriders. For cross-country and marathon riding the rear shock should yield by about 10-25 % of its total travel, for enduro and freeriding by about 20-40 %.

Put a cable tie (b) onto the stanchion tube so that you can still slide it easily along the tube’s exposed section.

To measure the maximum shock travel release all the air pressure from

the suspension fork. Then in󷴳ate the fork to the recommended air

pressure and measure the distance between the cable tie and the upper edge of the lower tube.

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The initial tension of most forks with coil springs or elastomer 󷴲llings can

be altered to a limited degree by adjusting the preload knob located on the fork crown connecting the stanchion tubes. In the event there is no

adjusting device, the coil spring or elastomer 󷴲lling need to be replaced.

In the case of oil/air forks, the spring rate is adjusted by the air pressure in the fork ((c) p. 51). The pressure must be checked at regular inter vals with a special shock pump which is normally made available by the fork manufacturer. Please follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.

Ride your bicycle on different kinds of surface and check after wards the travel of the cable tie ((d) p. 51). The difference is the rear shock’s travel you have used. If the cable tie has moved a few millimetres only, your

fork is too 󷴲rm. Reduce the air pressure of air sprung forks or the initial spring tension of coil springs. If your rear shock is still too 󷴲rm, have the

springs replaced.

If the cable tie has moved along the entire travel range (a) or if you can hear the fork hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this case the initial spring tension/pressure must be increased (b). If the adjustment range of the coil springs is too small, have the springs replaced at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

Check the pressure of air sprung forks at regular inter vals and follow the recommendations of the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not cover your needs, you will need to replace the springs or dampers.

Many manufacturers have tuning and retro󷴲tting kits on offer. If you are

in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust! When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts. Your BMW partner will be pleased to order the original spare parts for you!

Fork manufacturers include instructions with their deliveries. Read them carefully before changing any settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.

The suspension fork should be set up and adjusted in such a way that it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom out). A spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure) can usually be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise is caused by the sudden complete compression of the suspension fork as it reaches bottom out. If the suspension fork frequently reaches bottom out, it will become damaged over time, and so will the frame.

Suspension forks (c) are designed in a way to absorb shocks. If the fork is too rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directly into the frame without any damping. The frame is normally not designed to withstand such undamped stresses. If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension fork including lockout (d), you should keep in mind not to activate the lockout function when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth terrain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).

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9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping Control.

The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to

modify the 󷴳ow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the fork

legs move in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement while pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard pedalling out of the saddle it is advisable to activate the lockout mechanism. On the other hand, for downhill rides on uneven ground it may be better to open the damping system more or less completely.

Suspension forks with adjustable damping are 󷴲tted with an adjusting

knob that is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement (a). The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the compression movement (b).

The adjusting process changes the 󷴳ow rate of the oil contained within

the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally. Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the

compression stage entirely open and to 󷴲rst adjust the rebound stage.

Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change on the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting you need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the “Open”position.

Rebound is considered satisfactory when the suspension fork cycles once after descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the

oil inside will 󷴳ow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This

will result in a sluggish rebound movement, and the suspension fork will not recover when exposed to a quick series of impacts.

Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making the suspension fork rebound faster.

Once this is done, adjust the compression stage. This is to control the rate at which the rear shock compresses. Adjusting the compression

adjuster towards the closed or maximum position will give you a 󷴲rmer,

less active ride. Take your bicycle for a test ride on different kinds of surface (c).

If the suspension fork hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you will need to change its spring rate (d).

If the damping does not suit your needs, in spite of your adjusting, or if in the case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns for the initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension elements. The replacement is a job best left to a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

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Do not actuate the lockout function (of the suspension fork) when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth terrain (roads, smooth tracks) (a).

Do not turn any screws on your rear shock in the vague hope of adjusting it somehow. You could release the fastening mechanism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers normally mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“ signs (b).

Suspension fork manufacturers normally include instructions with their deliveries. Read them carefully before changing any settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.

A too strong damping of the fork can result in a sluggish rebound movement with a suspension fork that will not recover when exposed to a quick series of impacts. Risk of accident! Do not ride your bicycle, if the suspension fork bottoms out. This could damage the suspension fork itself as well as the frame.

When mounting a new front tyre, make sure there is enough clearance between tyre and fork crown as the fork compresses entirely. The front wheel might get jammed. Risk of accident!

9.2.3 Adjusting the Travel.

The travel of some suspension fork models allow travel adjustment.

With some models reducing the travel makes for an easier uphill riding.

A reduced travel may result in a modi󷴲ed spring characteristic of the fork making the fork either softer or 󷴲rmer. This can reduce the comfort of

suspension.

With other models, changing the travel does not result in a modi󷴲ed

spring characteristic. The suspension fork provides an identic comfort of suspension with a however clearly reduced travel.

Do not ride with a reduced travel over rough terrain or downhill!

For more information on adjusting the travel, please read the enclosed instructions of the suspension fork manufacturer!

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9.2.4 Maintenance.

Suspension forks are components of sophisticated design that require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all suspension fork manufacturers to establish service centres where you can have your fork thoroughly checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals by your BMW partner.

The following routines are essential for rear shock maintenance:

Make sure the sliding surfaces of the stanchion tubes are absolutely clean. Clean the fork with water and a soft sponge after every ride (a). After washing your bicycle, spray the stanchion tubes of the suspension fork with a little grease spray (b) or apply a ver y thin 󷴲lm of hydraulic oil.

Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Ask your BMW partner for an appropriate lubricant.

If your fork has an elastomer 󷴲lling, you should regularly clean (c) and lubricate the synthetic springs with a non-corrosive resin-free grease. Some fork manufacturers provide special greases for fork maintenance. Be sure to follow the recommendations of the manufacturers.

Forks with air springs have to be checked regularly for air pressure, as the air escapes over time (d).

Suspension forks are constantly being sprayed with water and dirt from the front wheel. Clean them with lots of water after every ride.

Suspension elements are of sophisticated design. The maintenance routines and above all the disassembly of the suspension elements are jobs best left to a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

Be sure to have your suspension fork checked by a service centre of the fork manufacturer once a year at least.

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9.3 Rear Shock.

Full suspension bicycles are equipped not only with a suspension fork but also with movable rear stays which are sprung and damped by a shock absorber (a). This feature gives you better control of your bicycle when riding cross-country or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces the strain on you and your bicycle caused by the mechanical shocks from the terrain. With rear shocks this normally works with an air spring element or, less frequently, with coil springs. Damping is usually controlled by the use of oil. Depending on the system the rear shock has one or more bearing axles with at least two bearings each.

For more information see the suspension glossary heading this chapter.

9.3.1 Adjusting the Seating Position.

Full suspension bicycles sag a little when you sit on the saddle. This causes the saddle to tilt a little backwards, an ef fect which can be compensated by adjusting the position of the saddle. If you have trouble sitting, try lowering the nose of the saddle a little compared to your usual position.

Full suspension bicycles have a greater ground clearance than bicycles without rear suspension. With a properly adjusted

saddle height you will not be able to reach the 󹞭oor with your

feet. Set the saddle a little lower to begin with (b) and practise getting on and off the saddle.

9.3.2 Adjusting the Spring Rate.

In order to work optimally, the rear shock has to be adjusted to the weight of the rider and the intended purpose. Be sure to have this adjustment carried out by a BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust before deliver y.

With an air spring element you have to in󷴳ate the rear shock before your 󷴲rst ride (c). The rear shock adjustment depends on the rider’s weight

and the sitting posture.

Please bear in mind that the rear swing arm of the rear shock should sag a little under the rider’s weight. When the rear wheel passes through a depression in the ground the spring can then extend and the suspension mechanism will smooth out the uneven surface. If the selected air pressure is too high, this effect is lost because the wheel will already be fully extended. This means the loss of an important feature affecting both safety and comfort.

To aid measurement you can use the rubber o-ring often available on the shock’s shaft (d), which slides further down the shaft as the rider gets on the bicycle or slip a cable tie onto the thinner tube of the rear shock so that it can still shift easily along the tube.

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To measure the maximum shock travel release all the air pressure from

the rear shock. Compress the rear shock completely. Then in󷴳ate the

shock absorber to the recommended air pressure and measure the distance between the rubber o-ring/cable tie and the upper edge of the shock body (c).

In the case of oil/air sprung rear shocks, the spring rate is adjusted by the air pressure in the damper. The pressure must be checked at regular intervals with a special shock pump that is normally included in the delivery of the rear shock manufacturer or available in a specialist cycle shop. Please follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.

Ride your bicycle on different kinds of surface and check after wards the travel of the rubber o-ring/cable tie. The difference is the rear shock’s travel you have used. If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved a few mil-

limetres only, your rear shock is too 󷴲rm. Reduce the air pressure of air

sprung rear shocks or the initial spring tension of coil springs. If your rear

shock is still too 󷴲rm, have the springs replaced.

If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved along the entire travel range or if you can hear the rear shock hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this case the initial spring tension/pressure must be increased. If the adjustment range is too small, have the springs replaced at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust. The rear shock should not reach the end of its travel (bottom out), which can usully be heard clearly. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will become damaged over time.

Check the pressure at regular intervals and follow the recommendations of the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not cover your needs, you will need to replace the springs or dampers. Many manu-

facturers have tuning and retro󷴲tting kits on offer. If you are in doubt

or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust! When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts. Your BMW partner will be pleased to order the respective original spare parts for you!

Almost all manufacturers deliver their dampers/rear shocks with instructions (d). Read them carefully before changing any settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.

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The rear shock should be set up and adjusted in such a way that it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom out). A spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure) can usually be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise is caused by the sudden complete compression of the rear shock as it reaches bottom out. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will become damaged over time, and so will the frame.

Rear shocks are mounted on full-suspension frames (a) in a way that they absorb shocks from the terrain. If the damper is too rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directly into the frame without any damping. The frame is normally not designed to withstand such undamped stresses. If your bicycle is equipped with a rear shock including lockout (b), you must therefore keep in mind not to activate the lockout function when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth terrain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).

9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control.

The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to

modify the 󷴳ow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the rear

swing arm moves in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement of the rear frame while pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides

involving hard pedalling in sitting it is advisable to eliminate the damp-

ing. For this purpose some rear shock models are 󷴲tted with a lockout

device. For downhill rides on uneven ground the lockout mechanism must not be activated.

Rear shocks with adjustable damping are 󷴲tted with an adjusting knob

that is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement

(c+d). The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the com-

pression movement.

The adjusting process changes the 󷴳ow rate of the oil contained within

compression stage entirely open and to 󷴲rst adjust the rebound stage.

Rebound is considered satisfactory when the rear frame cycles once after descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the oil

inside will 󷴳ow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This

will result in a sluggish rebound movement, and the rear shock will not recover when exposed to a quick series of impacts.

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Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making the rear shock rebound faster. Once this is done, adjust the compression stage. This is to control the rate at which the rear shock compresses. Adjusting the compression adjuster towards the closed

or maximum position will give you a 󷴲rmer, less active ride. Take your

mountain bike for a test ride on different kinds of surface (a).

If the rear shock hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you will need to change its spring rate, i.e. to increase the pressure (b). Make sure not to exceed the maximum pressure indicated on the rear shock.

Do not actuate the lockout function (c) (of the rear shock) when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth terrain (roads, smooth tracks).

Rear shock manufacturers normally include instructions with their deliveries (d). Read them carefully before changing any settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.

A too strong damping can result in a sluggish rebound move-

ment with a rear shock that will not recover when exposed to a

quick series of impacts. Risk of accident!

Do not ride your bicycle, if the rear shock reaches bottom out. This could damage the rear shock itself as well as the frame.

9.3.4 Maintenance.

Rear shocks and rear frames are components of sophisticated design that require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all rear shock manufacturers to establish service centres where you can have your rear shock thoroughly checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals by your BMW partner.

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The following routines are essential for rear shock maintenance:

Rear shocks with air springs have to be checked regularly for air pressure, as the air escapes over time. Make sure the sliding surface of the piston rod is absolutely clean. Clean the rear shock and rear frame, in particular the bearings, with water and a soft sponge after every ride (a). After washing your bicycle, spray the piston rod of the rear shock and the bearing areas with a little grease spray (b+c) or apply a very thin 󷴲lm of hydraulic oil.

Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Ask your BMW partner for an appropriate lubricant.

Regularly check the rear swing arm for side-to-side play and the bearing of the rear shock for vertical play. To check the rear swing arm for play, lift the mountain bike by the saddle and try to move the rear wheel from side to side. If necessar y, ask a helper to keep the front part of the frame still while you do this.

To check the rear shock for play place the rear wheel gently on the ground and lift it again a little (d). Check for any rattling. If you 󷴲nd any play, ask your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to eliminate it without delay.

Rear shocks are constantly being sprayed with water and dirt from the rear wheel. Clean them with lots of water after ever y ride.

Suspension rear frames and rear shocks are components of sophisticated design that require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all rear shock manufacturers to establish service centres where you can have your rear shock thoroughly checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals by your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

Suspension elements are of sophisticated design. The maintenance routines and above all the disassembly of the suspension elements are jobs best left to a bicycle specialist shop of your trust. Be sure to have your rear shock checked by a service centre of the rear shock manufacturer once a year at least.

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10 LIGHTING.

Anyone cycling on public roads is required by law to have a properly working set of lights (a) (see chapter “Legal Requirements for Rid- ing on Public Roads”). It is important to be familiar with the design of the lighting set so that you can repair it yourself in the event of a failure.

The dynamo (generator) produces the current required for operating the light bulbs and back. It has two cables attached to it, one running to the front light and the other to the rear light and back.

10.1 Hub Dynamo.

Hub dynamos (b) are built into the hub of the front wheel. They are virtually non-wearing and extremely effective. Some models are switched on electronically, some others mechanically. Hub dynamos are either engaged by a lever at the handlebars or directly at the front lamp. Other models offer the comfort of being switched on and off automatically by means of a sensor.

In case you need more information on your lighting, contact your BMW partner.

10.2 Troubleshooting.

After punctures the second most common malfunction is lighting failure.

First inspect the front and rear light bulbs. Check whether the 󷴲laments

are intact. Bulbs with a black tint are a sure indication of a defect.

On bicycles with a batter y-powered lighting (c+d) a failure is

usually due to 󹞭at batteries. Therefore, check the charge state

of the batteries at regular intervals or take replacements with you.

Check the contacts and the sockets in the lamp housings of the front and rear lights ((a+b) p. 62). White or greenish stains are a sign of corrosion. Remove the corrosion layer with a screwdriver, emery cloth or the like until the contact surfaces are shiny again.

If your bicycle is 󷴲tted with a dynamo lighting, inspect the cables along

their entire length and check them for defects. Check all contact points. Pin and socket connectors tend to corrode if exposed to salt and rain. Take the connectors apart and stick them together again.

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If you still cannot 󷴲nd the cause of the trouble, try supplying the current

using a battery (4.5 volt battery). If the lamps light up, the dynamo itself might be the cause of the trouble.

If the lamps do not light up, move the batter y closer to the lamps step by

step looking out for the moment when a current starts to 󷴳ow. If that still

does not help, contact your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

An incomplete or inoperative set of lights is not only against the law, it is also a hazard to your life. Cyclists riding in the dark without a light are liable to be overlooked and at risk of getting involved in serious accidents!

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11 ADJUSTING THE BICYCLE TO

THE RIDER.

Your body measurements are decisive for the frame size of your bicycle. Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bicycle quickly (a).

If you have a very small frame, there may be a danger of your foot colliding with the front wheel. Therefore, make sure your cleats are properly adjusted.

By choosing a speci󷴲c type of bicycle you roughly determine the posture

you will be riding in (b). However, some components are designed in a way that you can adjust them to your proportions to a certain degree, such as seat post, stem and brake levers. Contact your BMW partner. He will see to your wishes the next time you leave your bicycle at the

workshop, e.g. for the 󷴲rst inspection.

After any adjustment/assembly work, be sure to make a short functional check as described in chapter “Before Every Ride” and do a test ride

in an area away from traf󷴲c. This will allow you to safely check whether

everything is in good order.

All tasks described in the following require the know-how of a mechanic and appropriate tools. Increase the tightening torque bit by bit, checking

the 󷴲t of the component in between. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will 󷴲nd the prescribed values

in chapter “Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

11.1 Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height.

The correct saddle height for almost all bicycle types is the height which

gives maximum pedalling comfort and ef󷴲ciency. When pedalling, the

ball of your foot should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindles (c). With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling will become awkward.

Check the height of your saddle with 󷴳at-soled shoes. This is best done

with suitable cycling shoes.

Sit on the saddle and put your heel on the pedal at its lowest point (d). Your leg should be fully stretched and your hips should remain horizontal.

To adjust the saddle height loosen the quick-release lever (see chapter “How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles“) or the binder bolt of the seat post clamp at the top of the seat tube. The latter requires appropriate tools, e.g. an Allen key, with which you turn the bolt two to three turns anticlockwise. Now you can adjust the seat post.

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Be sure not to pull out the seat post too far - the mark on the seat post (max., min., stop or the like) should always remain within the seat tube (a) – and to grease the sur face of an aluminium or titanium seat post that is inserted into a seat tube made of aluminium, titanium or steel.

Do not use brute force, if the seat post does not move easily

inside the seat tube or if it cannot be tightened suf󹞬ciently, ask

your BMW partner for advice!

The minimum insertion depths marked on seat post and frame may differ. Be sure to insert the seat post to the deepest insertion depth!

Align the saddle with the frame by using the saddle nose and the bottom bracket or top tube as a reference point.

Clamp the seat post tight again by closing the quick-release (b+c), as described in chapter “How to Use Quick Releases and Thru Axles” or by turning the seat post binder bolts clockwise in half turns. You should not need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat post

suf󷴲ciently tight. Otherwise the seat post does not match the frame.

Verify in between that the seat clamp is suf 󷴲ciently tight by taking hold

of the saddle at both ends and then trying to rotate the seat post inside the seat tube (d). If it does rotate, gently retighten the clamping bolt by half a turn and do the check again.

Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum

torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly

checking the proper 󹞬t of the component. Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!

Do not overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp. Otherwise the seat post or the frame can be damaged. Risk of accident!

Does the leg stretch test now produce the right result? Check by moving your foot and pedal to the lowest point. When the ball of your foot is exactly above the pedal centre in the ideal pedalling position, your knee should be slightly bent. If it is, you have adjusted the saddle height correctly. Check whether you can touch the ground safely while sitting on

the saddle by stretching your feet to the 󷴳oor. If you cannot, you should

lower the saddle a little, at least to begin with.

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Never ride your bicycle with the seat post drawn out beyond

the limit, maximum, or stop mark! The seat post might break or

cause severe damage to the frame. If your bicycle has a long seat tube continuing beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the level of the top tube and the tip of the rear stays!

If sitting on the saddle causes you trouble, e.g. because it numbs your crotch, this may be due to the saddle. A bicycle specialist shop of your trust has a very wide range of saddles available and can offer advice on position (a).

With full-suspension mountain bikes the seat post should not project from the seat tube at lowest saddle height, as otherwise the rear shock arm may collide with the seat post during compression (b).

11.2 Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars.

The height of the handlebars determines how much your upper body will be inclined forward. Lowering the handlebars gives you a streamlined position and brings more weight to bear on the front wheel. However, it also entails an extremely forward leaning posture which is tiring and less comfortable, because it increases the strain on your wrists, arms, back, upper body and neck.

There are three different systems that allow vertical adjustment of the handlebars, i.e. conventional, adjustable and Aheadset

-stem. These systems require special knowledge. In this regard, the descriptions hereafter may be incomplete. If you have the slightest doubt, ask your BMW partner for help.

The stem (c) is one of the load bearing parts of your bicycle. Changes to it can impair your safety. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Stems come in varying lengths as well as shaft and binder tube diameters (d). If you opt for a stem of inappropriate sizing, handlebars and stem may break and result in an accident. When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts. Your BMW partner will be pleased to order the respective original spare parts for you!

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Make sure the handlebar-stem-combination is approved by the handlebar and/or stem manufacturer.

Check whether the handlebar clamping surface of the stem is free of sharp edges (a). Ask your BMW partner for professional advice.

The bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be tightened to the prescribed tightening torques. If you disregard the prescribed values, handlebars or stem may come loose or

break. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will 󹞬nd the prescribed values in chapter

“Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

11.2.1 Adjustable Stems.

There are various solutions for adjusting the tilt of the front part of adjustable stems (b):

Some designs use bolts on the sides of the joint, others have bolts coming from above or below, and some versions are equipped with additional locking mechanisms or adjusting bolts.

Ask your BMW partner to explain you both function and adjustment of your stem or let him do that work.

Release the side clamping bolt at the joint (c) by two to three turns at the most, i.e. without unscrewing it all the way. If you still cannot move the stem, it is being held in place by a ratchet or integrated locking mecha-

nism. If the stem is 󷴲tted with a locking mechanism, release the holding

bolt located on the top or bottom side (d) of the stem a little. In the case

of a ratchet mechanism you will 󷴲nd the bolt on the side.

Adjust the stem according to your needs.

Gently retighten the bolt of the locking mechanism, until it engages. Bolts located on the side only have to be tightened gently. If there are no side bolts, you have to tighten the bolt of the locking mechanism. If the stem of your bike has a ratchet mechanism, make sure its surfaces engage snugly as you tighten the side bolt. Retighten the bolt on the side of the joint, if necessary.

Any bolts located on the top or bottom side of the stem have to be released as far as necessar y to disengage the ratchet mechanism and to move the front part. It is usually not necessary to remove the bolts completely. Retighten the bolts after setting the stem to the desired height.

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Changing the position of the stem alters the position of handlebars, brake and shift levers. Readjust them as described in chapter “Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake Levers….“.

To adjust the stem angle release the angle locking bolt 󷴲rst. Press the

bolt to the left until the toothed washer becomes visible and the stem angle allows adjustment.

Adjust the stem angle according to your needs.

Press the toothed washer back to the right until it engages with the ratchet mechanism of the stem.

Tighten the angle locking bolt of the stem clamping evenly.

Never use brute force when adjusting the stem. The application of force might damage the ratchet mechanism. This would no longer allow a reliable, tight clamping of the stem in its adjusted position. Risk of accident!

11.2.2 Conventional Stems.

Handlebars with conventional stems allow limited vertical adjustment. This is done by moving the stem up or down inside the fork steerer tube.

Release the expander bolt by two to three complete turns (a). The stem should now turn freely inside the fork. If it does not, release the bolt by tapping it gently with a rubber hammer.

With Allen bolts, you need to stick the Allen key into its head 󷴲rst, as it is

normally countersunk and therefore impossible to be hit directly. Then gently tap the key with the rubber hammer (b).

Never tr y to unscrew the top race when you only want to adjust the stem, as you will otherwise alter the bearing play.

Now you can move the handlebar/stem unit up and down as a whole. Be sure not to pull out the stem too far. The mark on the stem (max., min., max., stop, limit or the like) should always remain within the tube (c). Setting the stem to a lower position can only add to your safety!

Straighten the handlebars so that they are symmetrical with respect to the front wheel (d).

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Retighten the expander bolt with a torque wrench. Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm

increments) whilst constantly checking the proper 󷴲t of the component.

Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!

Make sure the stem is 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed by taking the front wheel between

your legs and trying to turn the handlebars and stem relative to the wheel (a). If there is movement, please increase the tightening torque.

If the handlebars are still too high or too low, you can replace the stem. This can be quite a big job, as it may mean taking off and remounting all

the 󷴲ttings on the handlebars. Inform yourself at a bicycle specialist shop

of your trust about the various stem types available.

Never ride a bicycle with a stem drawn out beyond the mark for

the maximum permissible height! Check all bolted connections

and do a brake test before you set off!

Stems come in most different lengths and shaft and binder tube diameters. If you opt for a stem of inappropriate sizing, handlebars and stem may break and result in an accident.

11.2.3 Stems for Threadless Systems,

the Aheadset

-System.

(*Aheadset® is a registered trade mark of Dia-Compe)

On bicycles with Aheadset® the stem also serves to adjust the initial headset bearing pressure. If you change the position of the stem you have to readjust the bearings (see chapter “Headset”). The vertical setting range is determined by the intermediate rings, also referred to as spacers (b). In the case of 󷴳ip-󷴳op stem models the stem can be mounted the other way round to achieve a different handlebar height.

This adjustment is a job best left to a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

11.2.4 Adjusting Adjustable Handlebar Systems (A.H.S.).

Check whether the clamping area (c) of the A.H.S. is accurately centred in the handlebar clamp of the stem.

Adjust the A.H.S. tilt to your personal needs.

Tighten the handlebar clamping bolt(s) at the stem to the tightening torques prescribed by the stem manufacturer (d).

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Bring the A.H.S. grips into a position that matches your personal needs. To do so release the clamping bolts at the joint.

After you have found the ideal position for you, retighten the clamping bolts (a) to a tightening torque of 5.5 Nm.

Adjust the shift/brake levers and grips on the handlebars to your wishes.

Slide the expander cones of the bar ends onto the outer ends of the A.H.S.

Make sure the clamping surfaces are always clean and free of grease!

Position the bar ends to your personal needs.

Tighten the clamping bolts of the bar ends to a tightening torque of 23 Nm.

Do not forget to insert the according plugs into the ends of the A.H.S.

(b).

11.3 Correcting the Fore-to-Aft Position

and Tilt of the Saddle.

The inclination of your upper body, and hence your riding comfort and

pedalling power, are also in󷴳uenced by the distance between the grips

of the handlebars and the saddle (c). This distance can be altered slightly by changing the position of the saddle rails in the seat post

clamp. However, this also in󷴳uences your pedalling. Whether the saddle

is positioned more to the front or to the back of the bicycle will alter how rearward the pedalling position of your legs is.

You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed manner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.

The setting range of the saddle is very small. Replacing the stem allows you to make far bigger adjustments to the rider’s fore-to-aft position, as stems come in different lengths (d). In doing so you may achieve differences of more than ten centimetres. In this case you usually would have to adjust the length of the cables – a job best left to the mechanic of a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

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Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be

tightened to the prescribed tightening torques. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will 󹞬nd the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended

Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

Make sure the saddle is not clamped in the curved sections of the saddle rails (a).

11.3.1 Adjusting Saddle Position and Tilt.

With patent seat posts (b) a single bolt 󷴲xes the clamping mechanism, which controls both the tilt and the horizontal position of the saddle.

Some seat posts have two bolts for a 󷴲ner adjustment of the tilt.

Release one or both bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolt(s) two to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart.

Move the saddle forward or backward by sliding its rails in the loosened seat post clamp. You may have to give the saddle a light tap to move it. Please observe the markings on the saddle rail.

Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal (c) as you retighten the bolt(s). The bicycle should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.

Retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench according to the instructions of the manufacturer. After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of the saddle (d).

Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the values indicated in the enclosed manuals or directly on the components.

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11.4 Adjusting the Brake Levers and the Handlebars.

11.4.1 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Mountain, Cruise and Touring Bikes.

With most brake systems the distance between the brake levers and the handlebar grips is adjustable. This gives riders with small hands the convenience of bringing the brake levers closer to the handlebars. The

length of the rider’s 󷴲ngers also determines how the lever position for 󷴲rst brake contact should be set.

Determine the point, front and rear, at which the brake pads touch the rims or, with disc brakes, makes contact with the rotor. If this point is reached after the lever has only travelled a short distance, you will have to readjust the brakes when altering the reach distance (see chapter “Brake System“ and the operating instructions of the brake manufacturer). Otherwise the brake pads might drag on the rims.

On most bicycles there is a small headless screw near the point where the brake cable of a cable brake enters the brake lever mount or at the lever itself. Turn the screw clockwise and watch how the lever adjusts as you do so (a).

If you have disc brakes, follow the instructions of the brake manufacturer.

Hydraulic brakes are also 󷴲tted with adjusting devices at the brake lever

(b). There are different systems. For more information ask your BMW

partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

When you have set the levers to the desired reach distance be sure to check whether there is still enough slack for the brake levers to move a little before the brake pads hit the rims or make contact with the rotors (see chapter “Brake System“).

Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the

handlebars. Your maximum brake force should be reached

short of this point (c)!

Read the additional instructions of the brake manufacturer.

11.4.2 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake Levers of Mountain, Cruise and Touring Bikes.

Handlebar ends are usually slightly bent. Set the handlebars to a position in which your wrists are relaxed and not turned too much outwards (d).

To adjust the angle of the handlebars, release the Allen bolt(s) on the underside or front side of the stem. Turn the handlebars to the desired position. Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.

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Carefully retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench (a). Try rotating the handlebars once clamped in the stem and tighten the bolt a little more, if necessary. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tight-

ening torque! You will 󷴲nd the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in

the manuals of the component manufacturers.

After adjusting the handlebar you need to adjust the brake and shift levers.

Release the Allen bolt at either grip binder. Turn the levers relative to the

handlebars. Sit in the saddle and place your 󷴲ngers on the brake levers.

Check whether the back of your hand forms a straight line with the line of your forearm. Retighten the grips with a torque wrench (b) and do a twist test!

Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars,

bar ends, and brakes have to be tightened to their speci󹞬ed torques. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will 󹞬nd the prescribed values in chapter

“Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

Bar ends (c) give you additional ways of gripping.

They are usually 󷴲xed in a position that gives the rider a comfortable grip

when pedalling out of the saddle, i.e. almost parallel to the ground or tilted slightly upwards (by about 25°) (d).

Release the bolts, which are usually located on the bottom side of the bar ends, by one to two complete turns.

Turn the bar ends to the desired position making sure the angle is the same on both sides.

Retighten the bolts to the required torque.

Check whether the bar ends are 󷴲rmly 󷴲xed by trying to twist them out

of position.

Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases, while riding with your hands on bar ends. The brake levers are not always within easy reach.

Never 󹞬x bar ends in a vertical position or with their ends pointing towards the rear as this would increase the risk of injury in the event of an accident.

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12 ALL ABOUT BICYCLES.

12.1 Transporting Baggage.

There are various ways of carrying baggage on a bicycle. Your choice will primarily depend on the weight and volume of the baggage and on the bicycle you want to use. Using a bicycle rucksack (a) is a convenient way of transporting bagage on a bicycle. You can also use pannier racks or handlebar bags, but some bicycle models do not allow the mounting of these accessories. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

There are, however, many ways of fastening baggage directly to a bicycle:

The load capacity of pannier racks is classi󷴲ed according to DIN in three

weight levels: 10, 18 and 25 kg. The pannier rack of the BMW touring bike (b) is designed for a load capacity of 25 kg. Please mind the

bicycle’s overall maximum load when transporting baggage. If you 󷴲t

your bicycle with a pannier rack, make sure it complies with the DIN EN 14872 standard.

It is advisable to carr y baggage in stable pannier bags (c) with a very low centre of gravity (d).

When buying pannier bags, make sure they are watertight so that your belongings are protected.

Some cross and mountain bikes without a rear shock can be 󷴲tted with a pannier rack. Ask your BMW partner for the 󷴲xing points and suitable

pannier racks.

Another possibility of transporting baggage are handlebar bags. They often have quick release fasteners for quick mounting and removal. Handlebar bags are particularly suitable for valuables and photo equipment.

Lowrider bags 󷴲tted at the front of the bicycle are mounted to the fork by

means of special holders. They are a useful add-on for long tours. They are well suited for heavy items, as they hardly affect the rider’s control of the bicycle. Today, there are lowrider bags on the market that are even suitable for being mounted to suspension forks. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

We do, however, advise against fastening any baggage to suspension forks.

Make sure the weight of your baggage is favourably distributed when loading your bicycle. Heavy items should be carried as close to the ground as possible. Handlebar bags and bags mounted to the top of the pannier rack are only suited for light objects.

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Do not overload your bicycle (see chapter “Intended Use”)

and observe the maximum load capacity marked on or impressed in your pannier rack.

Adjust the suspension fork and the tyre pressure to the additional load.

Baggage generally changes the riding characteristics of your bicycle and increases your stopping distance! Therefore, practise riding a loaded bicycle in a place clear of traf󹞬c (a+b).

12.1.1 Transporting Baggage with Full-Suspension Frames.

Seat post supported pannier racks must not be loaded with heavy loads. Keep in mind that when riding over a bumpy, uneven road the weight

substantially increases (sprung mass). This has a signi󷴲cant in󷴳uence on

the suspension performance. Furthermore, overloading bears the risk of frame breakage! Therefore, do not load your bicycle with more than 8 kg!

With rear frame supported pannier racks the unsprung mass load increases and the response of the suspension system becomes more sluggish.

For this reason we strongly advise against mounting pannier racks to full-suspension frames.

12.2 Taking Children with You.

The only possible and legal way of transporting children by bicycle is in special child carriers or trailers (c+d). For more information in this regard, see chapter “Intended Use”.

12.2.1 Child Carriers.

The child carrier ((a) p.75) is fastened to the frame of the bicycle. The fastenings are usually designed for intermittent use. The child carrier can thus be fastened to any bicycle that is equipped with the necessary

󷴲ttings.

Only use pannier racks for mounting child carriers that have suitable 󷴲x-

ing points. Do not overload your pannier rack and be sure to obser ve the permissible maximum load capacity marked on the rack. Never exceed the indicated permissible overall load of the bicycle.

Do not mount a child carrier directly to the handlebars! Seat post supported pannier racks are not approved for child carrier mounting. Risk of breakage! Full-suspension bicycles do not allow child carrier mounting.

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Fitness and mountain bikes are not suitable for mounting a

child carrier with special 󹞬ttings. For more information on other

bicycle types, see chapter “Intended Use”. Consult a bicycle specialist shop of your trust.

Make it a rule to take your child out of the carrier when parking the bicycle. Risk of toppling over!

Cover the springs of your saddle so that the child cannot get his

or her 󹞬ngers pinched between them.

Make sure the child you are taking with you wears a helmet!

It is recommendable to only buy a DIN or GS tested child carrier. Be sure to fasten the child’s seat belt before you set of f and make sure the feet are properly seated in the shields (b).

Child carriers have a strong in󷴳uence on the bicycle’s riding characteristics. The weight of both carrier and child will make the bicycle somewhat top-heavy and tend to give you a wobbly ride. Practise getting on and riding your bicycle with a child on it!

A critical moment is when you have just placed the child in the carrier because this is when the danger of the bicycle toppling over is greatest. A good way to obviate this danger is to use a twin leg kickstand to keep the bicycle stable in standing.

Children must be transported in special child carriers only that provide suf󹞬cient protection for their feet. Please inform yourself about the situation in your country!

12.2.2 Child Trailers.

With special child trailers (c+d) that are towed behind a bicycle you can transport one or two children. Children can play in the trailer without the danger of toys falling out. Some models provide the option of mounting a sunshade or rain shield.

Before hitching a trailer to your bicycle have a look at chapter “Intended Use” or contact a bicycle specialist shop of your trust. Note down the trailer type you opt for so that they can provide you with the information you need.

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Trailers affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle and occupy far more width than the bicycle would alone. First, practise drawing the trailer without passengers (a). Mount a long pole with coloured pennant to

your bicycle to increase visibility. It should be 󷴲tted with all the re󷴳ectors

that are prescribed for riding on public roads, just like your bicycle. If you use it in the dark, illuminate the rear end of the trailer with a battery/accumulator-operated lamp (b). Please inform yourself about the regulations concerning lighting in the country where you are using the trailer.

Always secure the little passenger(s) (c) with the seat belt, as erratic movements inside the trailer can make it topple over.

Make sure the child you are taking with you wears a helmet (d).

A trailer is an insuf󹞬cient protection in the event of an accident!

Please note that your stopping distance increases due to the additional load of the child.

Make sure your bicycle is approved for trailer towing before mounting one. Trailer towing requires hydraulic brakes! (See chapter “Intended Use“).

12.2.3 Kids’ Tandem Bicycles / Trailer Systems.

There are different systems on the market that allow a kid’s bicycle to be attached to an adult bicycle to cycle together with your child on public roads.

Inform yourself at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust about the various types of kids’ tandem bicycles.

Some of them are attached to the seat tube of the towing bicycle. This single point attachment may be a little unstable.

Systems attaching the complete kid’s bicycle to the adult bicycle provide more stability.

Trailer systems have a strong in󹞭uence on the bicycle’s riding

characteristics. The weight of both the attached bicycle and the child will make the bicycle somewhat top-heavy. It may tend to wobble. Practise getting on and off your bicycle as well as cycling. Keep in mind, in particular when turning, that your bicycle including trailer system is much longer.

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These trailer systems also affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle. Therefore, before riding with a kids’ bicycle tandem on public roads, practise riding and brake behaviour without passengers in an area free

of traf󷴲c.

It is also important for you to practise with your child how to behave on an attached bicycle during the cycle. Make sure your child wears a helmet even when riding on a tandem bicycle! Set a good example by wearing a helmet, as well (a).

Only buy tested trailer systems (e.g. DIN/GS tested systems) and have them properly mounted. The manuals of the manufacturers that you have obtained together with the trailer system provide detailed information in this regard.

When riding in the dark the kid’s bicycle attached should be 󹞬tted with the prescribed lighting, i.e. the latter should be marked with a wav y line and the letter “K” (b). For more information see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads“.

12.3 Taking the Bicycle by Car.

The most convenient way to safely transport your bicycle is to put it into the boot of your car (c). There the bike is protected from dirt and any

dynamic in󷴳uences during the transport. Take care to protect the boot of the car. If necessary, line the boot before stowing the bike. Interior 󷴲xing

systems intended to secure the bicycle in the boot can be particularly helpful.

Always secure the bicycle or bicycle components when putting it/them into the interior of your car. Parts shifting around can impair your safety.

If transporting the bicycle inside the boot is impossible, your BMW partner offers carrier systems (d) which allow bicycle transport without

disassembly. The usual design involves rails 󷴲xed to the roof of the car onto which the bicycles are 󷴲xed with clamps gripping the down tubes.

Make sure to remove all parts of your bicycle (tools, pannier bags, child carriers etc.) which might come loose during transport and cause an accident!

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Most clamps are potential sources of damage to large-diameter frame tubes (a) that are not designed to be 󹞬xed in such clamps!

This can result in irreparable damage to the frame. High-end, very thin-walled aluminium frames are particularly susceptible to such kind of damage.

Suitable, special-purpose models are, however, available at your BMW partner.

Rear carriers (b) are becoming more and more popular. Their big advantage over roof carriers is that you do not have to lift up the bicycles so high to attach them. Make sure the fastenings do not create any damage to the fork or frame. Risk of breakage!

Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car

are not hidden from view. For some carriers, a second exterior rear view mirror is required by the road traf󹞬c regulations.

Do not buy a carrier on which the bicycle has to be mounted

upside down, i.e. with the handlebars and saddle 󹞬xed face down to the carrier. This way of fastening the bicycle exposes handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post to extreme stress during transport. Do not opt for a carrier system with crank arm 󹞬t.

Risk of breakage!

Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant safety standards of your country.

Read the instructions of your bicycle carrier and observe the maximum load capacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed.

Check whether your bicycle is properly fastened before and at regular intervals during the ride. A bicycle that detaches from the roof carrier may endanger other road users.

Bear in mind that your car has a greater overall height with the bicycle on it. Measure the overall height and place a sign stating the height somewhere in the cockpit or on the steering wheel so that it can be easily seen.

Never transport bicycles with hydraulic brakes upside down. This could let air enter the brake system and result in brake failure.

If your bicycle has disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks before transporting the bicycle with the wheels dismounted.

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12.4 Taking the Bicycle by Plane.

If you want to take your bicycle with you when you go on a trip by plane, pack it in an appropriate bicycle suitcase (a) or in a bicycle cardboard box (b) that you can obtain from your BMW partner. Special bicycle bags

often do not provide suf󷴲cient protection.

Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or cardboard box. Do not forget to take the necessary tools, a torque wrench, bits and this manual with you to be able to assemble the bicycle and to get it ready for use at your destination.

When you remove the wheels from a bicycle with disc brakes, be sure to place pad spacers between the brake shoes. Otherwise they can come

out unintentionally and you will have dif󷴲culties in bringing them back

into position. Your BMW partner has a variety of brake pad spacers. Pull

the brake levers and 󷴲x them with a tape to the handlebars. This will

keep the system free of air.

12.5 Accessories.

In purchasing this high quality bicycle you laid the foundation for many years and miles of enjoyable cycling. Whatever you are planning to do with your bicycle, be sure to have proper equipment and to keep a few tips in mind. Your BMW partner has a variety of useful accessories (c) on offer enhancing both your safety and convenience.

The most important accessories for a successful bicycle ride are a tyre pump and a small tool kit. The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers, the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare inner tube, a tyre repair kit, your mobile phone and a little cash (d). In this way you will be well prepared in the event of a puncture or some other mishap.

Improper accessories may change the qualities of your bicycle

and even cause an accident. Therefore, before 󹞬tting any

accessories do contact your BMW partner and observe the instructions regarding the intended use of your bicycle.

BMW recommends using BMW approved parts and accessories.

Please contact a BMW ser vice centre for any inquiries regarding original BMW parts and accessories, other BMW approved products as well as professional advice in this respect.

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These products were tested by BMW for safety and suitability and function checked on BMW bicycles.

BMW assumes the product responsibility for them. On the other hand, BMW refuses any liability for non approved parts or accessories of any kind.

BMW cannot judge for each third-party product, whether it is suitable for being assembled with BMW bicycles without safety risk. Nor can such a guarantee be given, in the event these products have been approved by the authorities of a countr y. Such tests do not always consider all usage

conditions for BMW bicycles and are therefore partly insuf󷴲cient.

12.5.1 Additional Fittings.

Your bicycle can be 󷴲tted with various kinds of accessories (a). Make sure to observe the traf󷴲c regulations in your country. Any retro󷴲tted

part must be compatible with your bicycle. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Mounting incompatible parts can result in an accident!

Before buying any additional bells, horns or lighting accessories, inform yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads. Make sure additional batter y/accumulator-operated lamps (b) are marked with the wavy line and the letter “K” (c).

Retro󹞬tted accessories, such as mudguards, disc or drum

brakes, pannier racks etc. can impair the functioning of your bicycle. Ask your BMW partner for advice before mounting any kind of accessories to your bicycle.

12.5.2 Mudguards.

If you want to 󷴲t your bicycle with mudguards (d), ask your BMW partner for advice. There are removable mudguards, also referred to as clip-on mudguards, as well as 󷴲rmly attached models that provide more protection.

Retro-󷴲ttable mudguards designed to be 󷴲rmly attached are normally

made of plastic and mounted in the correct position by means of addi-

tionally 󷴲tted stays. The accurate length of the stay is achieved when the

bottom edge of the mudguard runs parallel to the tyre.

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For safety reasons pop off front stays are a must. They are to prevent the front wheel from getting jammed due to impurities clinging to the tyre. In such an event the front stay pops off, thus avoiding a possible

accident. The plug-in connection allows an easy re-󷴲xing.

Be sure to replace damaged mudguards!

12.5.3 Bicycle Locks.

Best anti-theft protection is provided by stable cable and D-locks (a+b). With a D-lock you can lock e.g. the bicycle frame to a lamppost, whereas a cable lock means additional protection for the wheels. The D-lock is mounted to the frame by means of a bracket, a convenient way of taking

it with you. Cable locks can be 󷴲xed under the saddle around the tube, if your bicycle is not 󷴲tted with a frame mounting. At a bicycle specialist

shop of your trust they will be pleased to advise you about the various security categories of bicycle locks.

Always 󹞬x the lock securely to the bicycle and do not let it hang

down the handlebars.

12.6 Proper Cycling Equipment.

12.6.1 Cycling Helmets.

Cycling helmets are a must when riding a bicycle. Your BMW partner offers an assortment of cycling helmets (c). The bicycle specialist shop of your trust has a larger variety of styles and sizes.

Take your time when buying a helmet and keep on the one you prefer for

a while before making your 󷴲nal choice. A good helmet should 󷴲t snug

without pinching. Pay attention to testing symbols indicating the helmet passed the tests required by the DIN EN 1078 standards.

Be sure to only wear a cycling helmet during cycling. Observe the manufacturer’s instructions.

Never ride without a helmet (d)! But remember that even the

safest helmet is useless unless it 󹞬ts properly and is correctly

adjusted and fastened.

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12.6.2 Proper Cycling Clothing.

Cycling pants are a must for those who appreciate sitting comfortably in their saddle. These tight pants have a special padding in the bottom. They are free of folds, seams and pressure that seams cause. As cycling is certain to make you sweat, it is advisable to wear jerseys made of

synthetic material. These kinds of 󷴲bres do not absorb any moisture, but

transport the sweat away from your skin to the surface of the fabric, thus avoiding feeling chilly due to cold headwinds. Be sure to take appropriate waterproof clothing with you when you set off on a long cycling tour. At a bicycle specialist shop of your trust they will be pleased to help you choosing the appropriate clothing.

Never ride with wide-cut trousers or skirts that might get caught in the spokes, chain or chainrings. To avoid any such mishap, use suitable clips or straps, if necessary (a).

For increased visibility to other road users be sure to wear bright-coloured clothing.

12.6.3 Cycling Glasses.

Apart from a cycling helmet and suitable clothing, cycling glasses are absolutely essential when you set off on your bicycle (b+c). They do not only protect your eyes from the sun and the wind, but also

keep out 󷴳ies that may impede your vision when they 󷴳y into your eyes.

Risk of accident!

Good cycling glasses should 󷴲t tightly to your face not allowing any wind

to affect your eyes. Cycling glasses come in a wide range of models, such as e.g. glasses with clear lenses and without UV protection for cycling in the dawn and at night or glasses with maximum UV protection for cycling under extreme sunlight conditions.

At a bicycle specialist shop of your trust you will 󷴲nd a wide range of

cycling glasses and they will be pleased to advise you!

12.6.4 Shoes and Pedals.

Cycling shoes should be made of solid material (d) to provide 󷴲rm support for your feet. In addition, they should have a stif f sole so that the pedal cannot press through. The sole should not be too wide in the area of the heels, as the rear stays or the crank will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling. This will prevent your feet from assuming a natural position when pedalling and may cause knee pain in the long run.

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Special cycling shoes are obligatory if your cross or mountain bike is equipped with clipless pedals (a). With these shoes small cleats are 󷴲xed to the sole (b). They give you a 󷴲rm connection between shoe and pedal and allow an acceptable walking position.

The main advantage is that these cycling shoes and clipless pedals prevent your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast or when riding over rough ground. They enable you not only to push but also to pull the

pedals. This makes your pedalling more 󷴳uid and increases the power

transmission compared to normal pedals. With clipless pedals you can

get off the pedal very quickly. Just turn your heel to the outside. Practise

the engagement and release of clipless pedals so that you will be pre-

pared to face any dif󷴲cult situation.

Read the operating instructions of the pedal manufacturers. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

The usual way to engage with the pedal is to turn it from the lowest position of the crank to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat and push down on the back of it. Normally, the shoe engages with the pedal with a click which you will hear and feel clearly. Cleats come in different shapes, with var ying release angles and tensions. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and other impurities and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubricant at regular intervals.

Taking up the pedals, engaging and disengaging the shoes

should 󹞬rst be practised while stationary. Later you can re󹞬ne your technique in a place free of traf󹞬c.

The cleat should be positioned so that the ball of your feet rests over the pedal spindle (c). Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling. For most people this means that the heels will point a little inward. Your BMW partner or the staff of a bicycle specialist shop of your trust will be pleased to help you adjusting and mounting the pedal best meeting your demands!

Make sure the fastening bolts of the cleats are properly tight-

ened, as you will 󹞬nd it almost impossible to disengage your

shoe from the pedal, if the cleat is loose. Risk of accident!

The release force of clipless pedals is adjusted by means of an Allen key (d). If there are any creaking or squeaking noises occurring, some grease will solve the problem in most cases. These noises as well as lateral play of the shoe on the pedal can, however, be also signs of wear. Check the cleats at regular intervals.

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Only use clipless pedals allowing you to engage and disengage smoothly (a). A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can make the shoe disengage from the pedal. Or unclipping the shoe

from the pedal is sometimes very dif󹞬cult or even impossible. In

both cases, there is the danger of an accident!

Inform yourself at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust about the various models of cycling shoes available. Cycling shoes

come in various styles for speci󹞬c uses.

Some mountain bike pedals, also referred to as platform pedals, are designed for maximum grip of the shoes when dirtbiking and freeriding (b). For this reason they have sharp edges and/or bolted pins. As they enhance the risk of injuries during riding, you should wear protective clothing, e.g. knee and shin guards.

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13 GENERAL NOTES ON CARE AND

INSPECTION.

Your BMW partner will have assembled and adjusted your bicycle ready for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, your bicycle needs regular servicing. Have your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust do the scheduled maintenance work. This is the only way to ensure that all components function safely and reliably for many miles.

The bicycle will be due for its 󷴲rst maintenance after 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles), 5 to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks. The bedding in phase typically involves spokes slightly losing tension, cables stretching, gears becoming out of adjustment and bearings settling, so there is every reason to have your dealer service the bicycle at this stage. This bedding and settling in process is unavoidable. Therefore,

remember to make an appointment with your BMW partner for the 󷴲rst inspection of your new bicycle. The 󷴲rst inspection is very important for

both functioning and durability of your bicycle.

For your own safety, bring your bicycle to your BMW partner for

its 󹞬rst inspection after 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles), 5 to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks, at the very latest

however after three months.

It is advisable to have your bicycle serviced regularly by your BMW parter or at a bicycle specialist shop of your trust after the bedding in phase. If your bicycle does harder service, because you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces or cross-country, it will require correspondingly shorter maintenance periods. The off-season during the winter months is a very good time to take your bicycle to your BMW partner for the annual inspection.

Servicing and repairs are jobs best left to your BMW partner or a bicycle specialist shop of your trust. If you have your bicycle

serviced by anyone else than an expert, you run the risk that

parts of your bicycle will fail. This may lead to an accident! When working on your bicycle restrict yourself to jobs for which you are equipped e.g. with a torque wrench (a) and have the necessary knowledge.

If a component needs to be replaced, make it a rule to only use original spare parts (b).

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13.1 Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle.

Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter months can harm your bicycle. You should therefore make it a habit of cleaning all its components at regular intervals.

Avoid cleaning your bicycle with a pressure water washer. The highpressure water ejected in a narrowly focused jet may pass through seals and penetrate bearings. This leads to the dilution of lubricants and consequently to greater friction. This destroys and impairs the functioning of the bearing races in the long term. Pressurized water also tends to abrade frame stickers.

A much more gentle way of cleaning your bicycle is with a low pressure water jet or a bucket of water and a sponge (a) or large brush. Cleaning your bicycle by hand has another positive side-effect: you may discover defects in the paint (b) or worn or defective components at an early stage.

Do not clean your bicycle with a high-pressure water or steam jet and if you do, be sure to keep it at a distance.

While cleaning, watch out for cracks, scratches, dents as well as bent or discoloured material. Have defective components replaced immediately and touch up paint defects. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Inspect the chain after you have 󷴲nished cleaning and oil it, if necessary (c) (see chapter “Chain”). Apply a coat of standard hard wax (d) on painted and metal surfaces (except from brake sufaces). Polish the waxed surfaces after drying to give them a nice shine.

Keep cleaning agents and chain oil clear of the brake pads, rotors and rim sides (braking surfaces). This could impair the functioning of the brake (see chapter ”Brake System“)!

Only use petroleum based solvents for cleaning tough oil or grease stains from paint surfaces. Never use degreasing agents containing acetone, methyl chloride etc., or solventcontaining, non-neutral or chemical cleaning agents that could attack the surface!

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13.2 Sheltering and Storing the Bicycle.

If you regularly service your bicycle during the year, you will not need to take any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing it against theft. It is advisable to store the bicycle in a dry and airy place.

There are some things to bear in mind, when putting the bicycle away

for the winter months: In󷴳ated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when the bicycle is not used for a long time. If the bicycle is left standing on 󷴳at

tyres for an extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres. It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire bicycle

(a) or to check the tyre pressure regularly (b).

Clean the bicycle (c) and protect it against corrosion. Your BMW partner offers a variety of care products, such as spray wax (d) etc. Take off the seat post and allow for any moisture that may have entered to dr y away.

Spray a little 󷴲nely atomized oil into the seat tube. Switch the gear to the

smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket. This relaxes the cables and springs as much as possible.

There is usually minimal waiting time for repairs and ser vicing at the bicycle specialist shop of your trust. What is more, many dealers offer annual checks at a special price. Use the off-season to take your bicycle to your dealer for inspection!

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14 SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.

Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually

Lighting Check

Tyres Check pressure

Tyres Check tread and side walls

Brakes (rim-) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads, position of

pads relative to rim

Brakes (rim-) Test brakes in stationary

Brakes, (rim-), brake pads Clean

Brake cables Visual inspection

Brakes (disc-) Replace liquid

(Dot-liquids)

Suspension fork Check and retighten bolts, if necessary

Suspension fork Change oil or grease elastomers

Suspension seat post Service

Suspension seat post Check for play

Rims with rim brakes Check thickness, replace if necessary At the latest after second set of brake pads is worn down

Bottom bracket Check for play

Bottom bracket Regrease (shell)

Chain Check and grease, if necessary

Chain Check and replace, if necessar y After 800 km (620 miles)

Crankset Check and retighten, if necessary

Painted / anodised surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months

Wheels / spokes Check for trueness and tension

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Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually

Handlebars (aluminium) Replace At the latest after 5 years

Headset Check for play

Headset Regrease

Metal surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months

Hubs Check for play

Hubs Regrease

Pedals Check for play

Pedals (clipless) Clean and grease locking mechanism

Seat post / stem Check clamping bolts

Front / rear derailleur Clean and grease

Quick-release Check seat

Bolts and nuts Check and retighten, if necessary

Spokes Check tension

Valves Check seat

Stem / seat post Dismount and regrease

Cables gears / brakes Dismount and regrease

You should be able to do the jobs marked

yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experience and suitable tools; this

includes, e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your BMW partner!

Jobs marked

are best left to a bicycle specialist shop of your trust!

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15 RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES.

All bolted connections of the bicycle components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe and reliable operation of the bicycle. This is best done with a torque wrench that disengages at the desired tightening torque or a click-type torque wrench.

Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper 󷴲t of the

component. Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer! Where no maximum tightening torque is given start with 2 Nm. Observe the prescribed limit values. Follow the included instructions of the component manufacturers.

Some components have the maximum permissible tightening torque printed on them. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will 󹞬nd the prescribed values in the present chapter, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the

component manufacturers.

Assembly Component Torque Nm

Rear derailleur Fastening bolt 8 - 10

Cable fastening 4 - 6 Pulleys 3 - 4

Front derailleur Front derailleur mount 5 - 7

Cable fastening 5 - 7

Shift lever Fastening bolt 6 - 8

STI brake-shift lever Fastening bolt 6 - 8

Brake lever Fastening bolt 6 - 8

Hubs Freewheel body 35 - 39

Crankset / bottom bracket Fastening bolts of squared bottom brackets 30 - 49

Fastening bolts octalink 35 - 50 Bottom bracket square-head 50 - 70 Bottom bracket Hollowtech 2 / Truvativ GXP 30 - 50 Star-shaped nut Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket 0.4 - 0.7 Allen bolts left crank arm Hollowtech 2 10 - 15 Fastening bolt left crank arm Truvativ 48 - 54 Chainring bolts 8 - 11

Pedals 30 - 40

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Assembly Component Torque Nm

Stems M5 bolts 5.5 - 8

M6 bolts 9 - 11 Stem for threaded forks 15

Saddle clamping M4 bolts 3 - 4

M5 bolts 5.5 - 8 M6 bolts 9 - 11

V-brakes Fastening bolt on cantilever boss 5 - 7

Fastening brake cable 6 - 8 Brake shoes 5 - 7

Clamping of swing arm bearings 5 - 6

Damper bolts 8

Drop-outs Standard 7 - 11

M3 Allen bolts 2 - 3

Bolts, in general (e.g. pannier rack mounting, bottle cage, etc.)

M4 2.7 M5 5.5 M6 9.5 M8 23 M10 46

Wheel Wheel nuts (front wheel) 20 - 25

Wheel nuts (rear wheel) 25 - 30

Disc Brakes.

Component Magura

Torque Nm

Shimano Torque Nm

Tektro Torque Nm

Hayes Torque Nm

Avid Torque Nm

Brake calliper 6 6 - 8 8 12 8 - 10

Rotor 󷴲xing 4 2 - 4 5 5 6

Brake calliper adapter 8 - 10

Brake lever 3 - 4.5

Brake lever, in general 4 - 7

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16 SERVICE SCHEDULE (TO BE STAMPED).

2nd Service

After 2000 kilometres (1200 miles) or 100 hours in use or one year after date of purchase

Order no.: ........................................................................

Date: ..................................................................................

Replaced or repaired parts:

.............................................................................................

Stamp and signature of the dealer:

3rd Service

After 4000 kilometres (2400 miles) or 200 hours in use or one year after date of purchase

Order no.: ........................................................................

Date: ..................................................................................

Replaced or repaired parts:

.............................................................................................

Stamp and signature of the dealer:

Service

After 300 kilometres (180 miles) or 15 hours of use or three months after date of purchase

Order no.: ........................................................................

Date: ..................................................................................

Replaced or repaired parts:

.............................................................................................

Stamp and signature of the dealer:

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4th Service

After 6000 kilometres (3700 miles) or 300 hours of use or three years after date of purchase

Order no.: ........................................................................

Date: ..................................................................................

Replaced or repaired parts:

.............................................................................................

Stamp and signature of the dealer:

5th Service

After 8000 kilometres (4900 miles) or 400 hours of use or four years after date of purchase

Order no.: ........................................................................

Date: ..................................................................................

Replaced or repaired parts:

.............................................................................................

Stamp and signature of the dealer:

6th Service

After 10000 kilometres (6200 miles) or 500 hours

of use or 󷴲ve years after date of purchase

Order no.: ........................................................................

Date: ..................................................................................

Replaced or repaired parts:

.............................................................................................

Stamp and signature of the dealer:

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NOTES.

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NOTES.

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NOTES.