BMI Racing DB10T User Manual

Version 1.00 3-25-2008

Message from BMI Racing

Pro-10 is poised to make a return as a popular racing class, with racers tiring of the costs, complexity and steep learning
curve associated with 4wd sedans this new class is an inexpensive, fast and simple way to enjoy racing again. BMI
Racing’s R&D team have been working to develop a state of the art Pro-10 car that is far beyond the old technology of
235mm pan cars, the result of this program is the new DB10R.

Based on our ultra successful DB12R 1/12th scale racer the DB10R is a revolutionary leap in the development of Pro-10

chassis. Featuring BMI Racing Flex Link rear suspension system and our innovative “Center Mass” chassis layout the

DB10R is set to dominate at any track on any surface.

The “Center Mass” chassis layout places all of the chassis components in the correct location to yield a perfect left to right

balance and front to rear weight distribution. The revolutionary feature of the DB10R’s “Center Mass” chassis is the

placement of the speed control and receiver in the center of the chassis behind the battery. This has three very critical
benefits. Dealing with the battery and electronics as a unit allows us to better control the weight distribution for superior feel
and handling characteristics. A brushless speed control is relatively heavy. If it is offset to one side or another of a central
battery, weight must be added to counter balance it. The weight of a micro receiver on the other side of the chassis is not
enough to balance the chassis. Another important benefit of a rear mounted speed control is very short power wires for
lower voltage losses and very tidy wiring leading to the receiver.

The DB10R follows the new 200mm spec for Pro-10 cars. This size chassis allows racers to use a large variety of bodies
from Nitro Sedans to GT, Super Car and Vintage Muscle car bodies. More realistic bodies are one of the keys to the
successful return of the Pro-10 class.

Please read through the instruction manual carefully. Even if you are an experienced R/C racer, there are some details
about the DB10R that are different. To get the most out of your kit you must have it assembled correctly.

With Regards,
Jason Breiner

BMI Racing

Items needed to assemble your DB10R

1. .050”, 1/16” and 3/32” Allen wrenches

2. A #2 Phillips Screwdriver

3. 3/16” and 11/32” nut drivers

4. A pair of needle nose pliers

5. A pair of slip join pliers

6. A hobby knife

7. A ruler or calipers

8. A file

9. A soldering iron

10. Diff Grease

11. Electric Motor Cleaner Spray

12. 40wt silicon shock oil (for center shock)

13. 10,000wt silicon diff oil (for damper tubes)

Items needed to operate your DB10T

1. Two channel surface Radio system

2. A servo*

3. One or more 4 cell battery packs

4. A battery charger

5. An electronic speed control

6. An electric motor

7. A 64 pitch pinion gear

8. A small servo saver.

9. A 200m 1/10th scale body

10. 1/10thfoam tires scale tires
* The DB10R was designed to use mini servos.

While any servo will fit the ideal weight distribution is

best achieved with a min servo such as the Futaba
9602, 3650, JR 3650, etc.

Front suspension assembly

Step 1

Locate your lower front suspension arms and the

hard anodized alloy pivot balls. Note that the arms

are not symmetrical.
Pop the pivot balls into the arms with the shoulder

on the ball facing up. Do this by placing the ball on
a hard flat surface and placing the arm over the
ball. Carefully push the arm down over the pivot
ball. Be careful. It will take a lot of force.

Special Note:
The best way to install the pivot balls is with an IRS
pivot ball tool (www.teamirsrc.com, IRS1376). If
the pivot balls are tight you can over tighten this

tool, after the ball snaps in, a little at a time until the

ball moves freely.

Step 2

Locate your upper suspension arm rod ends. Note
that the top side of the rod end opening is smaller
than the bottom

With a hobby knife, carefully chamfer the top of
the rod ends opening. This creates clearance for
the king pin shims that will go here later. This will
ensure there is no binding in the suspension.

The inset picture shows a finished rod end.

Step 3

Locate the two remaining hard anodized alloy pivot
balls and snap them into the upper arm rod ends with
the shoulder on the ball facing down. As with the lower
arms, squeeze the rod ends if the balls do not move

freely.

Step 4

Locate the upper suspension arms, the upper arm
turnbuckles and assemble as shown above.

We prefer to thread the right hand thread portions

of the turnbuckles into the rod ends and the left

hand thread into the upper arms.
Note:

The arms have a bottom and a top. They have
small circular impressions on the bottoms.

Step 5

Locate the 10 degree reactive caster upper
suspension mounts, upper suspension hinge pin,
e-clip and nylon caster spacers.

Assemble as shown.
Make sure the upper suspension arms pivots

freely. If there is any binding at all, the car may
handle poorly. If the upper arms are tight, use the
back of a hobby knife to scrape the front and back
of the reactive caster blocks and the inside of the
upper suspension arms to make more clearance

for the caster spacers. Take your time here and

get it right!
Special Note:

The DB10R uses IRS upper hinge pins and does
not require setscrews in the upper suspension arm
mounts.

Step 6

Step 7

Locate the Ti front axles, four 4-40 alloy lock nuts,
and two alloy pivot balls.

Thread the Ti axles into the steering spindles.
Note that the threads on the axles that go into the

spindles are left hand. After the axles are fully

seated tighten an alloy 4-40 lock nut onto the
threaded stub coming out the back of the spindle.

Attach the upper suspension arm assembly to the
lower suspension arms as shown with 4-40 x ½”
screws.

Step 8

Locate 2 steel 1/8” king pins,12 1/8” shims, 2 e-

clips and 2 .022” king pin springs and 2 white nylon

spring perches.

1. Slide 4 shims onto the king pins against the
capped end of the king pin.

2. Pass this through the pivot ball in the upper
suspension arms rod end.

3. Place one more shim on the king pin.

4. Slide the steering spindle onto the king pin.

5. Slide the king pin through the pivot ball in the

lower suspension arm.

Thread the alloy pivot balls into the holes on the
steering arms and secure them with alloy 4-40 lock
nuts. Remember these are alloy pivot balls so
make the nuts snug. They are strong enough to
last a few racing seasons; but if you crank them
down, you can snap them.

7. Slide the spring onto the king pin.

8. Place a nylon spring perch and one 1/8”
shim onto the king pin then snap an e-clip on
to the bottom of the king pin.

9. Repeat for the other side of the front
suspension.

Special notes:
Make sure the steering arms on the spindle are
pointing towards the rear of the car as shown in

the picture.

The axle is offset in the spindle. Make sure the
axle is closest to the lower suspension arm. As
shown in the picture to the left

It is important that the king pin slide freely in all of
the parts including the steering spindle. When
you thread the axle into the spindle, it may swell
the king pin bore and make it tight on the spindle.

You can try to use a 1/8” drill to open it up but the
best solution is to use a 1/8” reamer.

You can order the reamer from:

www.mcmaster.com. The part number is

2995A61