Version 1.00 3-25-2008
Message from BMI Racing
Pro-10 is poised to make a return as a popular racing class, with racers tiring of the costs, complexity and steep learning
curve associated with 4wd sedans this new class is an inexpensive, fast and simple way to enjoy racing again. BMI
Racing’s R&D team have been working to develop a state of the art Pro-10 car that is far beyond the old technology of
235mm pan cars, the result of this program is the new DB10R.
Based on our ultra successful DB12R 1/12th scale racer the DB10R is a revolutionary leap in the development of Pro-10
chassis. Featuring BMI Racing Flex Link rear suspension system and our innovative “Center Mass” chassis layout the
DB10R is set to dominate at any track on any surface.
The “Center Mass” chassis layout places all of the chassis components in the correct location to yield a perfect left to right
balance and front to rear weight distribution. The revolutionary feature of the DB10R’s “Center Mass” chassis is the
placement of the speed control and receiver in the center of the chassis behind the battery. This has three very critical
benefits. Dealing with the battery and electronics as a unit allows us to better control the weight distribution for superior feel
and handling characteristics. A brushless speed control is relatively heavy. If it is offset to one side or another of a central
battery, weight must be added to counter balance it. The weight of a micro receiver on the other side of the chassis is not
enough to balance the chassis. Another important benefit of a rear mounted speed control is very short power wires for
lower voltage losses and very tidy wiring leading to the receiver.
The DB10R follows the new 200mm spec for Pro-10 cars. This size chassis allows racers to use a large variety of bodies
from Nitro Sedans to GT, Super Car and Vintage Muscle car bodies. More realistic bodies are one of the keys to the
successful return of the Pro-10 class.
Please read through the instruction manual carefully. Even if you are an experienced R/C racer, there are some details
about the DB10R that are different. To get the most out of your kit you must have it assembled correctly.
With Regards,
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Items needed to assemble your DB10R
1. .050”, 1/16” and 3/32” Allen wrenches
2. A #2 Phillips Screwdriver
3. 3/16” and 11/32” nut drivers
4. A pair of needle nose pliers
5. A pair of slip join pliers
6. A hobby knife
7. A ruler or calipers
8. A file
9. A soldering iron
10. Diff Grease
11. Electric Motor Cleaner Spray
12. 40wt silicon shock oil (for center shock)
13. 10,000wt silicon diff oil (for damper tubes)
Items needed to operate your DB10T
1. Two channel surface Radio system
2. A servo*
3. One or more 4 cell battery packs
4. A battery charger
5. An electronic speed control
6. An electric motor
7. A 64 pitch pinion gear
8. A small servo saver.
9. A 200m 1/10th scale body
10. 1/10thfoam tires scale tires
* The DB10R was designed to use mini servos.
While any servo will fit the ideal weight distribution is
best achieved with a min servo such as the Futaba
9602, 3650, JR 3650, etc.
Front suspension assembly
Step 1
Locate your lower front suspension arms and the
hard anodized alloy pivot balls. Note that the arms
are not symmetrical.
Pop the pivot balls into the arms with the shoulder
on the ball facing up. Do this by placing the ball on
a hard flat surface and placing the arm over the
ball. Carefully push the arm down over the pivot
ball. Be careful. It will take a lot of force.
Special Note:
The best way to install the pivot balls is with an IRS
pivot ball tool (www.teamirsrc.com, IRS1376). If
the pivot balls are tight you can over tighten this
tool, after the ball snaps in, a little at a time until the
ball moves freely.
Step 2
Locate your upper suspension arm rod ends. Note
that the top side of the rod end opening is smaller
than the bottom
With a hobby knife, carefully chamfer the top of
the rod ends opening. This creates clearance for
the king pin shims that will go here later. This will
ensure there is no binding in the suspension.
The inset picture shows a finished rod end.
Step 3
Locate the two remaining hard anodized alloy pivot
balls and snap them into the upper arm rod ends with
the shoulder on the ball facing down. As with the lower
arms, squeeze the rod ends if the balls do not move
freely.
Step 4
Locate the upper suspension arms, the upper arm
turnbuckles and assemble as shown above.
We prefer to thread the right hand thread portions
of the turnbuckles into the rod ends and the left
hand thread into the upper arms.
Note:
The arms have a bottom and a top. They have
small circular impressions on the bottoms.
Step 5
Locate the 10 degree reactive caster upper
suspension mounts, upper suspension hinge pin,
e-clip and nylon caster spacers.
Assemble as shown.
Make sure the upper suspension arms pivots
freely. If there is any binding at all, the car may
handle poorly. If the upper arms are tight, use the
back of a hobby knife to scrape the front and back
of the reactive caster blocks and the inside of the
upper suspension arms to make more clearance
for the caster spacers. Take your time here and
get it right!
Special Note:
The DB10R uses IRS upper hinge pins and does
not require setscrews in the upper suspension arm
mounts.
Step 6
Step 7
Locate the Ti front axles, four 4-40 alloy lock nuts,
and two alloy pivot balls.
Thread the Ti axles into the steering spindles.
Note that the threads on the axles that go into the
spindles are left hand. After the axles are fully
seated tighten an alloy 4-40 lock nut onto the
threaded stub coming out the back of the spindle.
Attach the upper suspension arm assembly to the
lower suspension arms as shown with 4-40 x ½”
screws.
Step 8
Locate 2 steel 1/8” king pins,12 1/8” shims, 2 e-
clips and 2 .022” king pin springs and 2 white nylon
spring perches.
1. Slide 4 shims onto the king pins against the
capped end of the king pin.
2. Pass this through the pivot ball in the upper
suspension arms rod end.
3. Place one more shim on the king pin.
4. Slide the steering spindle onto the king pin.
5. Slide the king pin through the pivot ball in the
lower suspension arm.
Thread the alloy pivot balls into the holes on the
steering arms and secure them with alloy 4-40 lock
nuts. Remember these are alloy pivot balls so
make the nuts snug. They are strong enough to
last a few racing seasons; but if you crank them
down, you can snap them.
7. Slide the spring onto the king pin.
8. Place a nylon spring perch and one 1/8”
shim onto the king pin then snap an e-clip on
to the bottom of the king pin.
9. Repeat for the other side of the front
suspension.
Special notes:
Make sure the steering arms on the spindle are
pointing towards the rear of the car as shown in
the picture.
The axle is offset in the spindle. Make sure the
axle is closest to the lower suspension arm. As
shown in the picture to the left
It is important that the king pin slide freely in all of
the parts including the steering spindle. When
you thread the axle into the spindle, it may swell
the king pin bore and make it tight on the spindle.
You can try to use a 1/8” drill to open it up but the
best solution is to use a 1/8” reamer.
You can order the reamer from:
www.mcmaster.com. The part number is
2995A61
Step 9
Locate four 8-32 x 5/8” screws and 4 thin and 4 thick nylon lower suspension arm risers.
Pass a screw through the chassis and slide a thin and a thick nylon riser over the screw. Start threading the
screw into the lower suspension arm but do not tighten it. Pass another screw through the chassis and slide a
thin and a thick nylon riser over that screw. Start threading the screw into the other hole on the lower
suspension arm. Tighten both screws. Repeat on the other side.
Special Note:
In the photo we are using alloy ride height spacers. The kit includes black nylon spacers. You will have to add
or subtract spacers in order to achieve your desired ride height. If you want to use the alloy spacers you can
get a variety of sizes from www.bmiracing.com, (P/N DB5311-DB5316)
Rear suspension assembly
Step 10
Locate two flex plates*, 2 Nickel Teflon plated Alloy
pivot balls, 2 delrin pivot ball housings, 2 delrin
housing caps, 2 10-32 set screws* and 4 2-56
button head screws.
1. Place a pivot ball in a pivot ball housing with the
shoulder on the ball facing down.
2. Place a housing cap over the ball.
3. Place the flex plate over this assembly.
4. Pass the 2-56 screws through the pivot ball
housing from the bottom up so they thread into
the flex plate.
5. Thread 10-32 set screw into the large hole on
the flex plate above the housing cap. Just get
the 10-32 started into the flex plate for now as
we will adjust it later.
The 10-32 set screw is there to adjust tension on the
pivot ball so it can move freely but have zero play.
*Black flex plates and 10-32 set screws were used
for photos. The production links are natural G10 in
color and the production screws are stainless steel.
Step 11
Step 12
Take a minute to prepare all your carbon components
for assembly. With a file or sand paper knock off any
sharp edges along the perimeter or the carbon parts.
The cell slots in the chassis are designed to fit the
cells properly if you just knock off the sharp edges. If
you bevel the cell slots the batteries will hang below
the bottom of the chassis.
Special note:
Carbon fiber dust is really bad for you. Always
wear a mask and eye protection when sanding or
filing carbon fiber.
Step 13
Attach the two flex plate assemblies to the real lower
pod plate with 4-40 x 1-4: flat head screws.
Temporarily remove the 10-32 set screws in the flex
plates in order to access the 3/32” hex in the top of
the pivot ball so you can tighten it down firmly.
Replace the 10-32 set screw and adjust it so there is
no play between the pivot ball and the pivot ball
housing on the flex plate. However, the flex plate
must still move freely. If you lift the front of the flex
plate, it should fall under its own weight when you let
it go.
Locate the delrin center pivot assembly one 4-40 x ¼”
and two 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws.
Attach the center pivot assembly to the rear most hole
in the center of the lower chassis plate with the ¼”
screw. The shoulder on the pivot ball and the two
bosses on the center pivot assembly should face
down towards the chassis. The pivot ball has a 3/32”
hex in the top so you can use a wrench to tighten it
firmly.
Attach the rear lower pod plate to the center pivot
assembly with two 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws.
Step 14
Locate 2 gray anodized non-threaded spacers, 2
gray anodized threaded spacers and 2 4-40 x ¼” flat
head screws.
1.Pass a 4-40 x ¼” flat head screw through the hole
in the chassis corresponding to the front hole on the
flex plate.
2.Thread the gray threaded spacer onto the screw
and hold it with needle nose pliers as you tighten the
screw.
3.Repeat to assemble the other side
Step 15
Locate the two alloy rear pod plates, the alloy rear
pod plate spacer tube 2 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws
and 4 4-40 x ¼” flat head screws.
Attach the alloy pod plates to the lower carbon pod
plate with the 4 4-40 x ¼” screws.
Attach the alloy rear pod plate spacer tube to the
allow rear pods with the 2 4-40 x 3/8” screws.
Step 16
Locate and install the two long gray anodized
threaded spacers as shown with 4-40 x ¼” flat
head screws
Step 17
Locate 2 4-40 x ¼” flat head screws, 2 4-40 x ½” flat head screws and 2 gray alloy unthreaded spacers.
1. Attach the carbon chassis brace to the chassis with 2 4-40 x ¼” flat head screws by threading them into
the long gray alloy threaded posts at the rear corners of the chassis.
2. Pass a 4-40 x ½” flat head screw through the countersunk hole at the front of a chassis brace wing.
Slide an alloy gray unthreaded spacer under the carbon chassis brace and pass the 4-40 x ½” flat head
screw through it.
3. Move the flex plate under the 4-40 x ½” flat head screw so the screw passes through the front hole in the
flex plate and finally into the gray alloy threaded spacer you put in the chassis in Step 14. Check out the
small detail photo to check you assembly.
3. Apply 10000wt silicon diff oil to the pistons
and insert them into the damper tubes.
Step 18
Locate the damper tube parts bag, the rear pod top
plate and 4 4-40 x ¼” flat head screws..
1. Thread a 4-40 x ½” set screw into each of the
4 ball cups from the damper parts bag.
2. Thread a ball cup/set screw assembly into the
ends of each of the damper tube pistons and
damper tubes.
4. Attach the alloy pivot balls to the bottom of the
pod top plate and the tops pf the side wings as
shown above. Secure them with alloy lock
nuts
5. Attach a black medium ball stud on top of the
top pod plate in the front and center hole.
Secure it with an alloy lock nut.
6. Attach the carbon pod top plate to the alloy
rear pod plates
7. Snap the ball cups of the assembled damper
tubes onto the pivot balls on the pod top plate
and wings.
Note:
If you feel play between your ball cups and
ball studs, you can place a single layer of
plastic bag material between your ball cup and
ball stud then snap them together. This will
cut and insert a disc of plastic into your ball
cup reducing or eliminating the play. If you
still feel play, repeat the process.
Step 20Step 19
Attach 3 7/8” alloy stand offs to the chassis in the
locations shown with 4-40 x ¼” flat head screws.
Note:
The production stand offs will be black in color not
silver as on the prototype used for these photos. Install a short ball stud in the battery retention plate
in the hole show in the picture above. Secure it
with an alloy lock nut.
Step 21
1. Attach the battery retention plate to the 3 alloy stand
offs with 3 4-40 x ¼” flat head screws.
2. Assemble the IRS Nickel-Teflon Macro Shock as per
the included instructions with 40wt silicon shock oil.
3. Install the included center shock spring onto the
shock and snap the shock in place.
Trim both of the ball cups that thread onto the ends of
the shock to .630” (16mm) in length. Thread the ball
cups on the ends of the shock so the over all shock
length is 3.11” (79mm). This length will give you the
standard setting of 1.5mm of rear pod droop.
Note:
The spring in the production kit may not be blue.
Step 22
Locate the rear axle parts bag. There are a couple of steps
that can make your diff last longer that should be done at
this time.
Use the right alloy diff hub as a holder and sand both sides
of each diff ring on 600 grit sand paper using electric
motor cleaner spray as a lubricant. Sand until you see an
even scoring pattern across the face of each diff ring.
Clean them with motor spray and set them aside.
The diff balls may have a protective oil coating on them.
Place them on a clean paper towel and carefully clean
them with motor spray. When dry drop them into your cup
of diff grease and stir them to coat them with diff grease.
Diff Assembly:
Step 22 Continued
1. Put a small dab of diff grease on the axle flange
so the diff will stick to it. Place a diff ring on the
flange so its flat keys onto the flat on the diff
flange.
2. Place a flanged 3/8 x ¼” bearing in the center
of the spur gear. Slide the spur gear and
bearing unit on to the axle until it stops against
the diff ring.
3. With a small flat screw driver remove the diff
balls from the diff grease and snap them into
the outer row of holes in the spur gear.
4. Place a flanged 3/8 x ¼” bearing into the inside
face of the right side diff hub. Put a small dab of
diff grease on the hub flange so the diff will
stick to it. Place a diff ring on the flange so its
flat keys onto the flat on the hub flange. Slide
this unit on to axle.
5. Slide a flanged 3/8 x ¼” bearing over the axle
into the outside face of the right side diff hub.
Slide the stepped thrust cone onto the axles so
the smaller diameter part is against the right
hub bearing.
6. Thread the black nylon lock nut onto the
threaded stud on the axles until it makes
contact with the thrust cone.
7. Tighten the black lock nut gradually with an
11/32” nut driver until you notice you cannot slip
the spur gear when holding the axle and right
hub in a fixed position.
Six 4-40 x ¼” cap head screws are supplied to mount
your rear wheels.
Notes:
Keep you fingers clean with motor spray. Diff
assembly is like surgery. You do not want dirt or oil
where it does not belong.
The grease on the diff balls when you pluck them out
of the cup of diff grease is all you need. Smearing diff
grease on the rings will make your diff get dirty faster
and make a mess.
The ultimate goal in building a diff is one which is
extremely free and glass smooth but requires a lot of
force to slip the spur gear.
Step 24
Step 23
Insert the IRS precision ride height adjuster cams into
the rear alloy pod plates. Insert a 3/8” x ¼” flanged
bearing into each ride height adjuster and insert the
axle as shown. Install your favorite wheels and
measure the width of the car. Shim as necessary to
obtain a centered axle and a 200mm rear track width.
Special Note:
The DB10R is designed to work with IRS precision
ride height adjuster cams. We find too much size
variation in other cams and cannot guarantee they will
fit properly.
Step 25
Angled Mounting
Install a 4-40 x ½” set screw into each flex plate.
Special note:
While these long set screws were initially designed
to be tweak screws in testing we found the nature
of the rear suspension system never lets the car
get tweaked.
Now, the set screws in the flex plates function as
roll stiffeners. If you want less roll in the rear of
you car, you can run them down so they just touch
the top of the lower chassis.
Under most conditions we run them so they are not
touching, or we do not install them at all.
You have two servo mounting options with the
DB10R, Angled or Flat. The new BMI Servo
Mounts have holes to allow either mounting option.
The Reactive Caster front suspension used on the
DB10R is designed to function best with angled
servo mounting. The hardware supplied with this
kit is what you need for angled mounting.
Flat Mounting
If you wish to mount your servo flat, you will need
two long off set ball studs to replace the standard
offset ball studs on your steering spindles. These
ball studs will correct the steering geometry and
eliminate the bump steer present if you did not use
them.
The servo is mounted to the servo mounts with two
4-40 x ¼” button head screws.
Step 27
The Servo mounts are attached to the lower chassis
with two 4-40 x ¼” flat head screws.
At this time drill out the center holes on your servo
saver (not supplied) for two Nickel Teflon ball studs.
Secure them with two 3/16 alloy lock nuts.
Locate two titanium turnbuckles and four black ball
cups. Assemble them as shown and adjust them to
an over all length of 2.66” (67.5mm). This is a
starting point. You will need to reset their length after
setting your camber in order to achieve the desired
amount of front toe.
Note:
You can use the same plastic bag trick mentioned in
Step 18 to remove play in your steering linkage.
Remember you want to remove play but still have
totally free movement in the links. Any friction at all is
unacceptable and will make you car not center
properly after steering inputs
Step 28
Install your body posts with two 4-40 x ½’ flat head
screws in the front (the front bumper fits between the
lower chassis and the front body mounts) and two 4-
40 x ¼” button head screws in the rear.
Step 29
Install the G10 battery locater with 2 2-56 flat head
screws. The middle position is a good place to
start.
Mounting Electronics (4 cell & Saddle LiPo)
The “Center Mass“ chassis layout of the DB10R is one of the features that really puts this car ahead of the
pack. This chassis design moves the batteries forward and places the electronics between the battery and
the motor pod.
This accomplishes two things.
1. The batteries are moved forward to obtain the proper weight distribution.
2. The electronics are located in the most efficient location (short power wires, tidy receiver wiring).
This lay out is designed to work with 4 cell NiMh cells and LiPo saddle packs such is the Max Amps 4000
Saddle packs (or any LiPo saddle battery that fits in a 72mm(L) x 98mm(W) x 22.2mm(H) area).
Note:
There is an antenna mount hole in the chassis for racers using non 2.4GHz receivers. An antenna mount
is not supplied in the kit.
Mounting Electronics (Stick LiPo)
This is the recommended electronics installation when the DB10R is powered by a stick LiPo battery.
You will need to purchase the “Stick LiPo Mounting Kit” (www.bmiracing.com, DB5900) in order to fit the
battery. The “Stick LiPo Mounting Kit” consists of 2 longer alloy stand offs that makes room for the taller
battery.
Note that this lay out is not ideal as you will need to add weight equal to the weight of your speed control
to the right side of the car to balance the weight of the speed control.
Congratulations!
You have completed the assembly of the DB10R Kit.
Please look over the base setup sheet to check your basic setup.
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