BMI Racing Copperhead 10 User Manual

Version 1.00 4-2-2010

Message from BMI Racing

The Copperhead 10 is the first 2nd generation World GT car. After two years of racing and testing we had more than few
good ideas that we wanted to incorporate in our next World GT car. As the concept for the new car started to come
together we realized this was not going to be a DB10RRR. There we too many subtle tweaks, changes in suspension
geometry, altering the chassis torsional stiffness as well as optimizing the car for the latest Brushless/LiPo power systems.
The result of all of this is the Copperhead 10. This car is everything the DB 10R was and much, much more. All the
changes focused on expanding the cars setup envelope. This means its is easier to get the car setup on a wider variety
of surfaces. From club races on low grip parking lot tracks to the carpet at the A-Main of the Snowbird Nationals, the
Copperhead 10 can easily be setup to win.

Please read through the instruction manual carefully. Even if you are an experienced R/C racer, there are some details
about the Copperhead 10 that are different. To get the most out of your kit you must have it assembled correctly.

With Regards,

Jason Breiner

BMI Racing

Items needed to assemble your Copperhead 10

1. .050”, 1/16” and 3/32” Allen wrenches

2. A #2 Phillips Screwdriver

3. 3/16” and 11/32” nut drivers

4. A pair of needle nose pliers

5. A pair of slip join pliers

6. A hobby knife

7. A ruler or calipers

8. A file

9. A soldering iron

10. Diff Grease

11. Electric Motor Cleaner Spray

12. 40wt silicon shock oil (for center shock)

13. 10,000wt silicon diff oil (for damper tubes)

Items needed to operate your Copperhead 10

1. Two channel surface Radio system

2. A servo*

3. One or more 4 cell battery packs

4. A battery charger

5. An electronic speed control

6. An electric motor

7. A 64 pitch pinion gear

8. A small servo saver.

9. A 200m 1/10th scale body

10. 1/10th foam tires scale tires

* The Copperhead 10 was designed to use mini
servos. While any servo will fit the ideal weight
distribution is best achieved with a min servo such
as the Futaba 9602, 3650, JR 3650, etc.

Front suspension assembly

Step 1

Locate your lower front suspension arms and
the hard anodized alloy pivot balls. Note that the
arms are not symmetrical.

Pop the pivot balls into the arms with the
shoulder on the ball facing up. Do this by placing the
ball on a hard flat surface and placing the arm over
the ball. Carefully push the arm down over the pivot
ball. Be careful. It will take a lot of force.

Special Note:
The best way to install the pivot balls is with an IRS
pivot ball tool (www.teamirsrc.com, IRS1376). If the
pivot balls are tight you can over tighten this tool, after
the ball snaps in, a little at a time until the ball moves
freely.

Step 2

Locate your upper suspension arm rod ends.
Note that the top side of the rod end opening is
smaller than the bottom

With a hobby knife, carefully chamfer the top
of the rod ends opening. This creates clearance for
the king pin shims that will go here later. This will
ensure there is no binding in the suspension.

The inset picture shows a finished rod end.

Step 3

Locate the two remaining hard anodized alloy pivot
balls and snap them into the upper arm rod ends with
the shoulder on the ball facing down. As with the lower
arms, squeeze the rod ends if the balls do not move
freely.

Step 4

Locate the upper suspension arms, the upper arm
turnbuckles and assemble as shown above.

We prefer to thread the right hand thread portions
of the turnbuckles into the rod ends and the left
hand thread into the upper arms.

Note:
The arms have a bottom and a top. They have
small circular impressions on the bottoms.

Step 5

Locate the 10 degree reactive caster upper
suspension mounts, upper suspension hinge pin,
e-clip and nylon caster spacers.

Assemble as shown.

Make sure the upper suspension arms pivots
freely. If there is any binding at all, the car may
handle poorly. If the upper arms are tight, use the
back of a hobby knife to scrape the front and back
of the reactive caster blocks and the inside of the
upper suspension arms to make more clearance
for the caster spacers. Take your time here and
get it right!

Special Note:
The Copperhead 10 uses IRS upper hinge pins
and does not require setscrews in the upper
suspension arm mounts.

Step 6

Step 7

Locate the Ti front axles, four 4-40 alloy lock nuts,
and two alloy pivot balls.

Thread the Ti axles into the steering spindles.
Note that the threads on the axles that go into the
spindles are left hand. After the axles are fully
seated tighten an alloy 4-40 lock nut onto the
threaded stub coming out the back of the spindle.

Attach the upper suspension arm assembly to the
lower suspension arms as shown with 4-40 x ½”
screws.

Step 8

Locate 2 steel 1/8” king pins,12 1/8” shims, 2 e­clips and 2 .022” king pin springs and 2 white nylon
spring perches.

1. Slide 4 shims onto the king pins against the
capped end of the king pin.

2. Pass this through the pivot ball in the upper
suspension arms rod end.

3. Place one more shim on the king pin.

4. Slide the steering spindle onto the king pin.

5. Slide the king pin through the pivot ball in the
lower suspension arm.

Thread the alloy pivot balls into the holes on the
steering arms and secure them with alloy 4-40 lock
nuts. Remember these are alloy pivot balls so
make the nuts snug. They are strong enough to
last a few racing seasons; but if you crank them
down, you can snap them.

1. Slide the spring onto the king pin.

2. Place a nylon spring perch and one 1/8”
shim onto the king pin then snap an e-clip on
to the bottom of the king pin.

3. Repeat for the other side of the front
suspension.

Special notes:
Make sure the steering arms on the spindle are
pointing towards the rear of the car as shown in
the picture.

The axle is offset in the spindle. Make sure the
axle is closest to the lower suspension arm. As
shown in the picture to the left

It is important that the king pin slide freely in all of
the parts including the steering spindle. When
you thread the axle into the spindle, it may swell
the king pin bore and make it tight on the spindle.
You can try to use a 1/8” drill to open it up but the
best solution is to use a 1/8” reamer.

You can order the reamer from:

www.mcmaster.com.

The part number is 2995A61