This manual is designed to take a more in depth look at the G1100 gas convection ovenfor the
purpose of making the unit more understandable to service people.
There are settings explained in this manual that should never require to be adjusted, but for
completeness and those special cases where these settings are required to change, this manual
gives a full explanation as to how, and what effects will result.
This oven must be installed in an area of
adequate air supply. The following minimum
clearances for air openings, servicing,
operation and installation are to be adhered
to:
Rear 100 mm
Left-hand side 100 mm
Right-hand side 300 mm
Top 1200 mm
OVEN INTERNAL DIMENSIONS
Width 730 mm
Height 490 mm
Depth 600 mm
Oven Volume 0.21 m³
WARNING: ALL INSTALLATION AND SERVICE REPAIR WORK MUST BE CARRIED
OUT BY QUALIFIED PERSONS ONLY.
This appliance must be installed in
accordance with national installation codes
and in accordance with relevant national /
local codes covering gas and fire safety.
AUSTRALIA - AG601 – 1992, Gas Installation
Code.
NEW ZEALAND – NZS5261, Installation of
Burning Appliances and Equipment.
Installations must be carried out by authorised
persons only. Failure to install equipment to
the relevant codes and manufacturers
specifications in this section will void warranty.
This oven must be electrically grounded in
accordance with local codes.
BEFORE CONNECTION TO POWER AND
GAS SUPPLY
Unpack and check unit for damage and report
any damage to the carrier and dealer. Report
any deficiencies to your dealer.
Fitting legs
Tilt the oven over on one side and fit both the
front and rear legs to the side now off the
ground. Fit them into the base frame under
the chassis base and secure to the base with
the bolts, spring washers and flat washers
provided. Lift up the other side of the oven, fit
legs, bolts and washers, but do not tighten
yet. Position leg tray (flat side facing up)
between legs and secure with the 4 screws
provided, then tighten all leg bolts. Level the
oven by adjusting the feet.
NOTE:
Stacking the ovens (Double units only)
Lay the top unit on its side and fit the spacers
provided to the base of the oven.
Lift the top unit onto the bottom unit and
secure around the spacer panel flanges with
self-tapping screws provided. Fit chimneys
over the duct assembly of the bottom unit.
Screw in place and pull down chimney
surrounds onto the duct assembly. Level the
oven by adjusting the feet. (Refer to appendix
A for more detailed stacking instructions).
Double units have no leg tray.
LOCATION
This oven must be installed in an area of
adequate air supply. The following minimum
clearances for air openings, servicing,
operation and installation are to be adhered
to:
Rear 100mm / 4”
Left-hand side 100mm / 4”
Right-hand side 300mm / 12”
Top 1200mm / 48”
NOTE:
side of the oven to allow access to the
circuitry and gas connections. If space is
limited then a minimum of 100mm (4”)
clearance should be allowed for, provided that
the oven can be moved to gain access.
A minimum of 1.2 metres or 4 feet clearance
must be maintained above the appliance to
any shelves or ceilings.
Position the oven in its allocated working
position. Use a spirit level to ensure the oven
is level from side to side and front to back. (If
this is not carried out, uneven cooking could
occur). The feet/legs used with bench or floor
mounting or provided with stands are
adjustable and will require adjusting in
levelling the unit. It should be positioned so
the operating panel and oven shelves are
easily reachable for loading and unloading.
GAS CONNECTION
It is important that adequately sized piping run
directly to the connection joint on the oven,
with as few tees and elbows as possible to
give maximum supply volume.
An accessible shut off valve must be fitted on
the supply line before the connection joint and
pressure regulator/appliance.
A suitable jointing compound which resists the
breakdown action of LPG must be used on
every gas line connection.
For a double unit, all gas connections must be
made separately.
The gas valve has a regulator incorporated
that is adjustable for Natural and LPG/
Propane gas's operating pressures.
The operating pressures should be adjusted
to achieve the required settings, refer rating
plate.
A pressure test point is found on the gas
valve. Access by removing side access
panels (refer 6.2.3).
Unscrew the regulator screw cap to access
the regulator adjustment screw. With the
burners on, adjust the regulator spring setting
until the correct operating pressure is
obtained (refer 6.4.1).
Units manufactured up to S/N 275352.
The ¾" inlet/outlet gas regulator supplied only
with ovens for use Natural Gas must be
installed on the ¾" dia. inlet tube at the rear of
the oven.
Ovens for use on LPG do not have a regulator
supplied, as the pressure is controlled by a
supply regulator at the supply tank. Refer to
the rating plate for correct operating
pressures.
The gas solenoid should be checked
separately by testing the immediate
connection on its outlet side. Where a leak
occurs within the solenoid valve, it should be
replaced before finalisation of instalment.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
G1100 convection ovens are supplied with
pre-fitted cords. Ensure unit is fitted with the
correct cord and plug for the installation (refer
specifications section).
Should changing of the cord be necessary,
gain access to the electrical connection
terminal block and strain relief by removing
the right hand access panel (six screws).
L1L2
Phase
RED
BROWN
BLACK
WARNING:
Neutral
BLACK
BLUE
WHITE
THIS APPLIANCE MUST
BE GROUNDED / EARTHED
Ground
GREEN
GREEN/YELLOW
Figure 2.1
screws securing the water access cover
panel, and remove the panel.
Fit ½" (13mm) flexible hose to the solenoid
and secure with a hose clamp. Turn on the
water supply to check for leaks. It may be
necessary to hold the water injection button in
for a few seconds to remove air from the
system after initial instalment.
IMPORTANT: MAXIMUM INLET WATER
PRESSURE IS 550 kPa / 80 psi.
BEFORE USE
Operate the oven for about 1 hour at 200°C to
remove any fumes or odours which may be
present.
RATING PLATE LOCATION
The rating plate for the G1100 convection
oven is located at the top left of the right hand
side panel.
Rating
Plate
Figure 2.2
WATER CONNECTION
A cold water supply should be fitted to the
water inlet which is located at the rear of the
unit.
The G1100 Turbofan convection oven
features multi-function operator controls for
which a correct understanding of their
operation is required before carrying out any
service or fault repair work. The control
device functions are explained as follows:
A power switch on the control panel isolates
all to the controls of the oven. With the power
switch Off all functions of the oven are
inoperable.
With the power switch On (indicator
illuminated) power is directly supplied to the
60 minute bake timer, steam (water injection)
switch, light switch, and the temperature
control circuit. The oven circulation fan will
operate only when the thermostat is turned on
and the oven door is closed. The control
panel light switch will turn the oven lights on
when the door is closed only when the light
switch is held in. With the thermostat
switched on, the oven lights will come on
automatically when the door is opened, as this
is controlled by the door microswitch.
The 60 minute timer is a mechanical timer and
can therefore be operated with the oven’s
power switch On or Off. However, only with
the oven’s power switch On will the switch
contacts of the 60 minute timer turn on the
time-up buzzer and illuminate the time-up
indicator on the control panel. The buzzer
and time-up indicator provide indication that
the time setting has run down to zero and at
this point will remain On continuously until the
60 minute timer has been manually set back
to the Off (vertical) position. The 60 minute
timer does not control any other part of the
oven’s operating system as this timer is
independent of the temperature control and
heating system.
The steam (water injection) switch on the
control panel can be operated whenever the
power switch is On. The switch is momentary
like the light switch and when depressed, will
operate the electric solenoid valve at the rear
of the oven and inject water across the oven
fan from the flat spray (vertical) nozzle
positioned at the rear of the oven. Releasing
the steam button will close the solenoid valve.
This feature is used to instantaneously add
steam into the oven.
The temperature control of this oven is with a
capillary type thermostat which can be set to a
required cooking temperature.
The thermostat switch has a separate switch
body assembled onto the front from the shaft
assembly and when the thermostat is set to a
cooking temperature, the switch contacts turn
on the oven fan. The switch is closed (fan on)
whenever the thermostat is not in the Off
(vertical) position. The control panel indicator
light to the right of the thermostat knob cycles
On and Off with the thermostat to indicate
when the gas burners are on and the oven is
heating.
The burners are automatically controlled by
the main oven thermostat or hold thermostat,
via an automatic ignition and valve control
device, which operates a gas solenoid valve
to provide gas to the burners as required to
maintain the set thermostat temperature.
On the thermostat calling for heat, the
thermostat will switch power to the ignition
control. The ignition control will then power
the gas control valve to open the solenoid and
provide gas to the burners. At the same time
the ignition control will generate a high voltage
ignition spark sequence conveyed to the
ignition electrodes through a high tension
ignition cable. The spark and earth ignition
electrodes will spark across the end gap
between these two to ignite the burners.
On successful ignition of the burners the third
electrode (a flame rectification rod) will be in
the burner flame. This provides the ignition
control with confirmation that the burners are
lit by establishing a micro-amp current from
the electrode to earth through the flame due
to combustion flames being ionised and
therefore able to conduct minute electrical
currents. The flame electrode is connected to
the ignition control with an insulated wire.
If this ignition sequence occurs correctly the
spark sequence will be stopped and the
burners will continue to operate until the
thermostat switches off and shuts down the
ignition control and consequently closes the
gas solenoid valve.
Should the ignition control not sense the
burner flame within a fixed ignition / spark
sequence period, the ignition control will
lock-out and turn off the gas solenoid valve.
Lock-out condition requires the oven
thermostat to be switched off before operation
can be restarted.
loses the burner flame during an on period, a
re-ignition attempt will be started automatically. If this is unsuccessful the ignition will go
to lock-out mode.
The G1100 Turbofan convection oven
features a Roast-and-Hold system which can
be used to automatically set the oven to a
fixed holding temperature at the end of a
timed cooking period. When the Roast-andHold switch is turned On the switch will
illuminate and switch the power from the
thermostat to the 3 hour roast timer.
If the roast timer is in the Hold (vertical)
position the timer switch contacts will be in
their normally closed position and supply
power directly to the Hold thermostat located
behind the control panel. The Hold
thermostat is factory set to 75°C (167°F) and
will supply power to the ignition and gas
burner as required to maintain its preset
temperature.
The thermostat heating light will also cycle
On/Off as the Hold thermostat maintains
temperature.
In the Roast-and Hold mode the 3 hour timer
can be set to a selected roasting time. During
this time period the normally open switch
contacts of the timer are closed. The timer
has two change over switches and in this
position one is used to supply power to its
timing motor and the other is used to switch
power directly to the main oven thermostat.
During the 3 hour timer run-down period the
oven temperature will be controlled by the
main oven thermostat to the set temperature
and operate as previously described.
When the 3 hour timer has run down and
reached the Hold position the two switch
contacts change over to their normally closed
position which isolates power from the timer
motor and the oven thermostat. It also
switches power back to the oven hold
thermostat. At this point the temperature
control is now maintained by the hold
thermostat as previously described. To
cancel the hold circuit the Roast-and-Hold
switch is turned Off. This removes power
from the 3 hour timer and restores the feed to
the main oven thermostat. The Hold indicator
light below the 3 Hour timer will illuminate
whenever the oven is operating in hold mode
(Roast ‘n Hold selected, and 3 Hour timer at
zero position).
The factory preset hold thermostat can be
adjusted as required to change the holding
temperature if necessary. Refer Service
section for this procedure.
The Troubleshooting Guide (Section 5) should
be used to identify any incorrect oven
operation. On correct identification of the
operating fault the Troubleshooting Guide will
make reference to the corrective action
required, or refer to the Fault Diagnosis
section and/or Service section to assist in
correction of the fault.
WARNING: ALL INSTALLATION AND SERVICE REPAIR WORK MUST BE CARRIED
OUT BY QUALIFIED PERSONS ONLY.
4.1 CLEANING
WARNING: ALWAYS TURN THE
POWER SUPPLY OFF BEFORE
CLEANING.
IMPORTANT: THIS UNIT IS NOT
WATER PROOF.
DO NOT USE A WATER JET SPRAY TO
CLEAN INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF
THIS UNIT.
EXTERIOR
Clean with a good quality stainless steel
cleaning compound. Harsh abrasive cleaners
may damage the surface.
Do not use oven cleaners or caustic solutions
to clean the control panel as these cleaners
will damage plastic components.
INTERIOR
Ensure that the oven chamber is cool. Do not
use wire brushes, steel wool or other abrasive
materials. Clean the oven regularly with a
good quality oven cleaner. Take care not to
damage the fan which has been factory
balanced.
SIDE RACKS
Remove all oven racks. Remove the side
racks by lifting out of the rack support
brackets.
LAMP GLASS
To remove glasses, unscrew anti-clockwise.
To replace, screw in clockwise.
4.2 ROUTINE PROCEDURES
The following procedures should be carried
out at least once a year.
Door chainAdjust if required and check for wear.
Door catchEnsure that catch is adjusted such that the
door closes properly.
Water nozzleCheck for liming in the water nozzle.
HT Lead / Electrode
Check for deterioration.
Operating pressure check
Check that the operating pressure of the
unit is correct to that stamped on the
rating plate. Check for leaks in the gas
piping connections.
Check that the voltage across phase and
neutral (L1 and L2) terminals of terminal block
is the voltage as stated on the unit’s electrical
rating plate.
If incorrect, check electrical connection of
supply wiring and / or check electrical supply.
Power switch faulty
With switch on, check voltage at terminal 1 of
switch. If there is no voltage, check for fault in
wiring. Check voltage at terminal 2. If there is
no voltage then the switch is faulty - replace.
6.1.2 NO HEAT/BURNER NOT WORKING
Burner ignition spark not working
A faulty spark system is one that does not
light the burner at all. If the burner is being lit
temporarily, but fails to stay alight, then the
problem is in the flame sensing, not spark
ignition. Refer “Burner flame not being
sensed” (following).
Firstly determine if spark is being generated.
Gain access to the oven burners (refer 6.2.6).
Turn off the gas supply, and with electrical
supply turned on, turn the thermostat on to
initiate a heating cycle. Look for spark
generation at the end of the electrodes
located above the right hand burner. A
correctly functioning ignition system should
show sparking visible across spark and earth
rod ends. If spark is not seen at electrode
ends, or sparking is erratic, this indicates that
there is a high voltage short/breakdown
between the ignition box and electrode ends.
Possible causes to investigate are as follows,
inspect and correct as necessary:
- Spark gap too large (see the following
section).
- Cracked spark rod ceramic, or carbon
build-up.
- HT leads to spark electrode and earth
broken/deteriorated.
- HT leads between ignition electrodes and
ignition control box broken/deteriorated.
- No spark from ignition box, refer ignition
box faulty.
Spark gap setting
With spark electrode assembly removed,
inspect spark rod and earth electrode settings,
and spark gap settings.
Between SPARK and EARTH (centre) 3-5mm
Between EARTH and main burner 7-10mm
Between SENSOR and EARTH 10-12mm
Between SENSOR and main burner 7-10mm
NOTE:
With spark system correctly checked,
re-check operation.
Burner flame not being sensed
The flame sensing electrode requires correct
positioning in the burner flame. Incorrect gas
pressures, types, injector sizes, etc will affect
correct operation of flame sensing system.
Ensure that these are checked and correct
before carrying out further investigation. Also,
an incorrectly earthed/grounded appliance will
cause faults with the flame sensing system.
Always ensure a correct earth/ground
connection on the appliance connection and
supply.
If the flame rod is touching the burner then
there is a short circuit to earth, and this will
cause the ignition control to not sense the
flame correctly. This fault would normally be
indicated by a burner that fails to stay alight
during operation, or during an ignition attempt
the sparking continues after the burner is lit.
The flame rod should be adjusted to be clear
of the burner by 7-10mm.
Always inspect the connection lead from the
flame rod to the ignition box for deterioration,
bad connections, or insulation breakdown.
Ignition box faulty
The direct spark ignition control boxes used
on G1100’s are operated from direct voltage
supply from the thermostat / hold thermostat
circuit.
Correct ignition box operation should result in
ignition box commencing spark at ignition
electrodes and opening gas valve to ignite
burners, then maintain burner on after
successful ignition.
If no spark generated or heard, check that
ignition box has correct supply voltage (when
thermostat in ON).
Check correct supply voltage on ignition box
wires connecting to terminal 1 of the hold
thermostat, and a control panel neutral wire.
This confirms that the thermostat circuit is
supplying the correct voltage to the ignition
box connection wires. To confirm actual
voltage to ignition box, the 6-way connector
on the ignition box requires removal to check
actual voltage in ends of 6 way connector for
these two wires.
If voltage is ok, but no spark is generated,
check that all wiring at ignition box has good
connections.
Ensure that the ignition box has earth/ground
connection, and that appliance has earth/
ground at supply, and supply is earthed.
If all connections are ok, and no ignition
sequence operating, then ignition box is faulty
- replace.
If ignition box generates spark, but burner
doesn’t ignite, or if burner ignites but doesn’t
stay alight, firstly check correct electrode
assembly operation. Refer fault diagnosis
6.1.2 - Burner Ignition Spark Not Working.
If all checks are correct, but burner fails to
stay alight then ignition box is faulty - replace.
NOTE:
Correct flame sensing current can be
checked by inserting a multi-meter capable of
measuring micro-amps in series with flame
rectification rod connection to ignition box.
With power off, disconnect flame rectification
rod connection to ignition box and connect
multimeter between flame rectification rod
lead and ignition box terminal. Turn on power
and thermostat. With burner running a current
of no less than that specified below should be
read.
All Models 1.0 micro Amps
If no current reading, or less than specified,
re-check electrode settings, gas pressure, gas
type etc, and if still not correct, ignition box
requires replacement.
Gas valve faulty
In all cases it must first be established that the
gas supply is on, and that the supply
pressure is correct (refer to specifications
section)
If pressure is correct then with thermostat
turned on check voltage at connections to the
gas valve solenoid.
If voltage is correct when thermostat is on,
and gas valve is not opening, then the gas
valve is faulty - replace.
If voltage is incorrect, check wiring and
connections to ignition box and refer to
ignition box fault diagnosis.
No power to thermostat
Check voltage to terminal 1 on oven
thermostat. If there is no voltage then check
voltage through terminal 2 and 3 on roast n
hold switch. If there is no voltage to terminal
2 then check wiring. If there is voltage to terminal 2, but no voltage to terminal 3 (and the
roast n hold switch is not turned on) then
switch is faulty—replace.
Thermostat faulty
Set thermostat to 200°C. Check the voltage
out of terminal 2 on the thermostat. If there is
no voltage then the thermostat is faulty—
replace.
If the voltage is correct and the heating light is
on then check all wiring to ignition box.
6.1.3 FAN DOESN’T OPERATE
Fan motor faulty
Check the supply voltage across motor terminals. If there is no voltage then check the
electrical connections of wiring.
If voltage is correct then check the oven fan
for free rotation. Remove any obstruction.
If fan is free to spin and the voltage at motor
terminals is correct, then the motor is faulty—
replace.
Fan switch faulty
Check that the thermostat has power to
terminal 5 on switch body on the front of the
thermostat when power switch is ON. If no
voltage check wiring. Check that terminal P5
has power switched to it when the thermostat
is turned on. If no power to P5 then switch is
faulty and thermostat complete with switch
needs to be replaced.
Remove the right hand side panel to allow
access to the microswitch. With the
thermostat switched on and door closed,
check voltage to terminal com of microswitch.
If no voltage check wiring to thermostat.
If voltage correct then check voltage at
terminal n.c. If no voltage then manually
activate microswitch by bending the activator
arm. If microswitch cannot be activated then
it is faulty - replace. If the microswitch can be
manually activated then it should be adjusted.
n.c.
Microswitch
com
Figure 6.1.1
6.1.4 OVEN LIGHTS NOT ILLUMINATING
Fault with water valve
Check voltage supply across the water valve
solenoid coil with the steam switch depressed.
If there is no power supply then check the
control panel steam switch.
If power supply to the coil is correct,
disconnect wiring to coil and check the
resistance of the coil windings.
Correct coil resistance: 2500 ohms
NOTE:
If open circuit / high resistance, then
the coil is faulty—replace.
If coil resistance is correct, rewire and listen
for an audible solenoid click when the steam
switch is depressed.
If solenoid can be heard functioning, and oven
water nozzle is not blocked, then remove
water solenoid and fittings and check for
blockages.
6.1.6 CONTINUOUS WATER OUT OF
OVEN WATER NOZZLE
Light switch faulty
Check voltage to the left hand terminal of the
switch. If there is no voltage, then check
wiring.
With switch depressed, check voltage at right
hand terminal. If there is no voltage, then
replace the switch.
If voltage is correct, then check wiring to light.
NOTE:
Alternately, perform a continuity test
across the terminals with the light
switch depressed.
6.1.5 NO WATER INJECTION / STEAM
Steam switch faulty
Check voltage to the left hand terminal of the
switch. If there is no voltage, then check
wiring.
With switch depressed, check voltage at right
hand terminal. If there is no voltage, then
replace the switch.
If voltage is correct, then check wiring to the
solenoid.
NOTE:
Alternately, perform a continuity test
across the terminals with the steam switch
depressed.
Water solenoid electrical fault
With control panel steam switch not
depressed, check for power supply across
solenoid coil. If there is power to the coil, then
check wiring and steam switch (refer 6.1.7).
6.1.7 60 MINUTE TIMER NO TIME UP
BUZZER
Buzzer faulty
With timer in ‘zero’ position, check the buzzer
at side of control panel (inside) for voltage
across terminals. If voltage is correct then
buzzer is faulty—replace.
If there is no voltage, then check wiring..
Timer not switching on buzzer
With timer in zero position, check voltage to
top connection (terminal one) and bottom
connection (terminal two) of timer. If there is
no voltage at terminal one then check wiring.
If no voltage at terminal two then timer is
faulty—replace.
NOTE:
Timer will continue to run
approximately three minutes below zero.
Buzzer and time up indicator will continue until
the timer is manually switched off (to vertical
position).
6.1.12 ROAST TIMER (180 MINUTE) WILL
NOT TIME DOWN
Indicator faulty
With the timer in the zero position, check for
voltage across the indicator light. If correct,
then the indicator light is faulty—replace.
If there is no voltage then check wiring.
6.1.9 NO TEMPERATURE CONTROL
(TEMPERATURE OVERRUN)
Thermostat faulty
Set thermostat to 50° C. Check voltage at
terminal 2 on the thermostat. As the oven
heats up, the thermostat contacts should
open, cutting power to terminal 2 of the
thermostat. If not then the thermostat is faulty
- replace.
6.1.10 SLOW RECOVERY
Thermostat out of calibration
Place an accurate digital thermometer probe
in centre of oven. Set thermostat to 180°C.
Close the oven door and allow oven
thermostat to cycle on and off twice. Record
oven centre temperature for the next
thermostat on and off cycle. The thermostat
should cycle on and off between 165°C and
195°C when set to the above temperature. If
oven temperature is outside these ranges,
then the thermostat requires recalibration.
NOTE:
Thermostat cycling span should be
±15°C
6.1.11 NO THERMOSTAT HEATING
INDICATOR
No power to timer
Check the voltage at terminal 5 on underside
of the 180 minute timer.
Check that one lead of timer motor is
connected to terminal five of timer and the
other lead is connected to neutral of ‘Roast ’n
Hold’ switch.
If voltage at terminal 5 is correct and wiring is
correct then the timer motor is faulty—replace
timer.
Terminal 4
Terminal 1
Terminal 2
Terminal 5
Terminal 6
Terminal 3
Figure 6.1.2
If there is no power at terminal 5, check for
power supply at terminal 4 of timer. If there is
voltage at terminal 4 and not at terminal 5 with
timer set, then timer switch is faulty—replace
timer. If terminal 4 voltage is correct, check
wiring to roast n hold switch.
‘Roast ‘n Hold’ switch faulty
Check if the switch latches. If the switch does
not latch then the switch is faulty—replace.
With the switch latched, check voltage to
terminal 2. If there is no voltage then check
for fault in wiring.
Check voltage to terminal 1. If there is no
voltage then switch is faulty—replace.
NOTE:
When the switch is latched, it should
illuminate if operating correctly.
Indicator faulty
Check the voltage across the indicator
terminals. If the voltage is correct then the
indicator is faulty—replace.
If there is no voltage then check wiring.
6.1.13 NO HOLD INDICATOR
Indicator faulty
Check the voltage across the indicator
terminals. If the voltage is correct then the
indicator is faulty—replace.
With the power switch on and illuminated,
‘Roast ‘n Hold’ switch on and illuminated, and
the roast (180 minute) timer set to hold, check
that the hold indicator is illuminated.
With a cold oven (ie room temperature) check
that the oven burners are on. If burners are
not operating, check the voltage at terminal 2
of the hold thermostat. If there is no voltage
then check wiring.
If the voltage is correct, and the thermostat is
adjusted above oven temperature, then check
for output voltage at terminal 1 (bottom) of
hold thermostat. If there is no voltage then
the thermostat is faulty—replace.
6.2 ACCESS
6.2.1 CONTROL PANEL
1) Undo the screw on the left hand side of
the control panel.
One screw
Figure 6.2.1
2) The control panel can now hinge open
along its right hand edge.
6.2.2 FAN BAFFLE
1) Open the oven doors and remove all racks
and trays from the oven.
2) Remove the four baffle securing screws
from the rear of the oven.
Figure 6.2.2
3) Withdraw the baffle from the oven.
6.2.3 RIGHT HAND ACCESS PANEL
1) Undo the six screws securing the access
panel to the right hand side panel, and
remove.
Natural Gas 0.90 kPa (3.6.” w.c)
LP / Propane Gas 2.50 kPa (10.0” w.c)
1) Remove right hand side panel (refer
2) Unscrew the pressure test point screw at
The operating pressures should be
adjusted to achieve the following required
settings on both gas valves.
6.2.4).
the bottom of the gas valve and connect
pressure meter.
Regulator
screw
Pressure
test point
3) Adjust the turnbuckles such that the right
hand door closes slightly ahead of the left
hand door.
To make the left hand door close earlier,
tighten the left hand turnbuckle, and
loosen the right hand turnbuckle.
To make the right hand door close earlier,
tighten the right hand turnbuckle, and
loosen the left hand turnbuckle.
4) Tighten the locknuts.
5) Replace bottom lintel.
6.4.3 DOOR BALL CATCH
1) Loosen the ball catch locknut by one turn.
2) Use the adjusting tool provided with the
oven to rotate the ball catch clockwise or
anti-clockwise, moving it into and out of
the door respectively.
3) Tighten the locknut to secure the new
adjustment.
Ball
catch
Figure 6.4.1
3) Unscrew the regulator screw cap to
access the regulator adjustment screw.
With the burners on, adjust the regulator
spring setting until the correct operating
pressure is obtained. This regulator is
adjustable for Natural and LPG/Propane
gas's operating pressures.
NOTE:
Always set gas pressure with burners
on. Turning the regulator screw clockwise
increases the gas pressure.
4) Refit the slotted caps, disconnect pressure
meters and refit screws, refit side panel.
6.4.2 DOOR CHAIN
1) Remove the bottom lintel (refer 6.2.5).
2) Loosen the two locknuts on each of the
turnbuckles.
Figure 6.4.3
6.4.4 BURNER AERATION
1) Gain access to the oven burners (refer
6.2.6).
2) With the main burners on, adjust the
primary air shutters at the front of each
burner until optimum flame condition is
established.
NOTE:
Ideally flame should be blue/green in
colour, exhibit no yellow tipping and no
lifting off burner ports.
TEMPERATURE NEEDS TO BE
INCREASED, ENSURE THAT THE
THERMOSTAT IS IN THE ‘OFF’ POSITION
BEFORE CARRYING OUT ADJUSTMENT.
IF OVEN TEMPERATURE NEEDS TO BE
DECREASED, ENSURE THERMOSTAT IS
IN THE MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE
POSITION BEFORE CARRYING OUT ANY
ADJUSTMENT.
Screws
Fan Switch
Figure 6.4.7
6) Adjust the calibration nut located at the
base of the thermostat shaft.
Calibration
Nut
Thermostat
Thermostat Shaft
Fan Switch
Figure 6.4.5
1) Turn off power.
2) Remove thermostat knob by pulling it
firmly away from control panel.
3) Open control panel (refer 6.2.1). Remove
the nut securing the thermostat to the
control panel.
Securing nut
Calibration Nut
Figure 6.4.8
To increase oven temperature, turn
calibration nut anticlockwise.
To decrease oven temperature, turn
calibration nut clockwise.
Adjustment of the calibration nut by 1°
angular will alter oven temperature by
approximately 2°C (3.6°F).
7) Reassemble fan switch onto thermostat
and fit assembly back onto control panel.
8) Turn on power and then recheck oven
thermostat calibration.
9) Repeat procedure if necessary.
NOTE:
Thermostat cycling span should be
±15°C or 27°F.
6.4.6 HOLD TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT
1) Open control panel (refer 6.2.1)
2) The hold temperature of the oven can be
adjusted by turning the hold thermostat
Figure 6.4.6
dial to the desired hold temperature.
4) The thermostat can now be removed.
5) Carefully remove two screws holding fan
switch to thermostat.
HINT:
Tape fan switch assembly together
Hold Thermostat
Dial
before removal to prevent it from springing
apart.
two screws on control panel holding 60
minute timer.
Two screws
Figure 6.4.10
3) The timer can now be rotated as required
to ensure that the buzzer sounds at the
zero position.
6.4.8 DOOR MICROSWITCH ADJUSTMENT
1) Remove the right hand side panel (refer
6.2.4).
2) Bend the microswitch actuator arm such
that the microswitch closes when the door
is closed.
Actuator arm
Figure 6.4.11
3) Replace right hand side panel.
6.4.9 GAS TYPE CONVERSION
1) Remove main burner injectors (refer
6.3.16), and replace with correct size
injectors.
LPG 1.20 mm
Natural 1.90 mm
2) Remove pilot injector (refer 6.3.14), and
replace with correct injector.
LPG 0.70 mm
Natural 1.10 mm
3) Relight burners and check flame size and
stability. Adjust aeration if required (refer
6.4.1).
NOTE:
To S/N: 275352
Natural gas units have a gas regulator
fitted to the unit. LPG / Propane units are
regulated at the gas supply.
Set test point pressure to:
LPG 2.65 kPa
Natural 0.89 kPa
From S/N: 275353
All units have a gas regulator incorporated
in the unit.
• Remove the four screws along the top,
four screws along the bottom, and the four
screws from the rear of the right hand side
panel.
• Remove the panel.
• Unscrew the pressure test point screw at
the bottom of the gas valve and connect
pressure meter.
• Unscrew the regulator screw cap to access the regulator adjustment screw. With
the burners on, adjust the regulator spring
setting until the correct operating pressure
is obtained. This regulator is adjustable for
Natural and LPG/Propane gas operating
pressures.
LPG/Propane 2.50 kPa
Natural 0.90 kPa
• Refit the slotted cap, disconnect pressure
meter and refit screws, refit side panel.
012185 Main Burner
032120 Main Injector 1.20mm - LPG
032190 Main Injector 1.90mm - Natural Gas
011907 Pilot Burner
033070 Pilot Injector 0.7mm - LPG
033110 Pilot Injector 1.1mm - Natural Gas
022594 Gas Control 50Hz (From S/N 275353)
SA1710 Gas Control 60Hz (From S/N 275353)
019454 Gas Solenoid Valve (Up to S/N 275352)
014983 Ignition Box
SA1310 Ignition Electrode Assembly
011853 Regulator (Up to S/N 275352)
OVEN
011036 Oven Base - without Drain Hole
017824 Oven Rack
017822 LH Oven Rack Support
017823 RH Oven Rack Support
004069 Fan Baffle
017961 Phial Guard
013555 Ceramic Tile
016800 Fan Puller (spares only)
VICTORIA - MOFFAT PTY
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740 Springvale Road Tel (03) 9518 3888
Mulgrave VIC 3170 Fax (03) 9518 3838
Spare Parts Department Free Call 1800 337 963
Fax (03) 9518 3895
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Fax (03) 9518 3895
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Spare Parts Free Call 1800 337 963
Fax (03) 9518 3895
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Fax (03) 9518 3895
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16 Osborne St Tel (03) 389 1007
PO Box 10-001 Fax (03) 389 1276
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(0800 66 33 28)
Fax (03) 381 3616
1) Remove the stainless steel top cover from
the unit which is to become the bottom
unit.
2) Screw into place the insulation panel over
the fibre insulation (folded edge forward),
locating the rear slots of the panel with the
holes in the chassis member.
3) Drill two additional holes through the side
members to locate with the remaining two
holes in the insulation panel.
4) Locate and attach duct assembly onto top
of the bottom unit’s flue.
5) Unbolt the four legs of the base unit and
replace with the short legs supplied.
6) Remove the legs and leg frame from the
G1100 top unit.
7) Remove the back panel from the top unit.
8) Cut out slots in base panel of top unit for
chimney (refer figure A.2).
9) Insert and attach chimney assemblies with
2 screws each.
10) Fit side spacers and front cover to bottom
of top unit.
11) Stack the units, ensuring chimney and
duct are aligned and spacers line up with
holes in sides of bottom unit, and secure
with screws provided.
12) Attach rear spacer and re-fit the back
panel on the top unit