Blue Max Global Arf Instructions For Assembly And Use

40 - 46 Size Almost Ready to Fly
Instructions for Final Assembly
Commemorate the Aviation's beginnings with the new Global Blue Max ARF. A time when the nose skid was as important as the tail skid to safety minded pilots landing on unprepared airfields, planes of this style used cutting edge technology for their day. The Blue Max remembers those years long past. It's open cockpit, wire spoke wheels and open framework capture a more experi­mental time in aviation. The high lift wing and generous wing area mean super slow stall speed and very forgiving flight characteristics. Don't be sur­prised if you see beginners with this plane. Our test pilots say this plane is easier to fly than most .40 size trainer planes. And unlike the grossly under­powered airplanes of yesteryear, the Blue Max is favorably powered using a .40 size two stroke or a .52 size four stroke. So put on your scarf and your goggles and get ready to go back into time. Oh, and don't forget to load that cannon!
Version V1.0 4-99 Kit # 232500 All Contents © Copyright 1999
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Kit Contents...................................................3
Additional Items Required................................3
Tools and Supplies Needed..............................3
Field Support Equipment Needed......................3
Metric Conversion Chart.................................3
Wing Assembly...............................................4
Install the Dihedral Braces.........................4
Joining the Wing Halves.............................5
Wing Mounting................................................5
Install the Wing Hold Down Dowels...........5
Aligning the Wing to the Fuselage...............6
Install the Wing Struts................................6
Horizontal Stabilizer Mounting..........................6
Align the Horizontal Stabilizer.....................6
Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer...............7
Vertical Stabilizer Mounting..............................8
Align the Vertical Stabilizer........................8
Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer..................8
Control Surface Installation..............................8
Hinge the Ailerons....................................8
Hinge the Elevator....................................9
Install the Tail Wheel Wire.........................9
Hinge the Rudder......................................9
Mounting the Tail Wheel Bracket.............10
Installing the Tail Wheel...........................10
Main Landing Gear........................................10
Aligning the Main Gear Assembly............10
Installing the Main Gear Assembly...........10
Installing the Main Gear Wheels...............11
Engine Mounting............................................11
Mounting Engine to Motor Mount.............11
Aligning the Motor Mount........................11
Mounting the Engine to Firewall...............12
Nose Skid.....................................................12
Align the Nose Skid.................................12
Installing the Nose Skid............................12
Fuel Tank......................................................13
Fuel Tank Assembly................................13
Fuel Tank Installation...............................13
Throttle Linkage............................................14
Installing the Throttle Linkage..................14
Servo Installation...........................................14
Installing the Fuselage Servo Tray............14
Installing the Aileron Servo Tray...............14
Installing the Aileron Servo......................15
Installing the Fuselage Servos..................15
Throttle Connector........................................15
Installing the Throttle Connector...............15
Rudder Pushrod............................................16
Installing the Rudder Control Horn...........16
Installing the Rudder Pushrod..................16
Elevator Pushrod..........................................17
Installing the Elevator Control Horn..........17
Installing the Elevator Pushrod.................17
Aileron Linkage............................................18
Installing the Aileron Linkage...................18
Pilot and Cannon...........................................19
Barrel Seat Assembly..............................19
Pilot and Cannon Assembly......................19
Barrel Seat Installation.............................20
Pilot Installation.......................................20
Cannon Installation..................................20
Final Assembly..............................................21
Installing the Receiver and Battery...........21
Installing the Switch................................21
Installing the Fuel Lines...........................21
Installing the Propeller.............................21
Balance........................................................21
Lateral Balance......................................22
Control Throws.............................................22
Flight Preparation..........................................22
Preflight Check.......................................23
Basics of Flight.............................................23
Product Evaluation........................................26
Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly , no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user­assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
T o make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN. 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.or g
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This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read this manual thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Blue Max. Use the parts listing below to identify and separate all parts before beginning assembly .
** KIT CONTENTS** W e have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better identification during assembly . W e recommend you regroup the parts in the same manner. This will ensure you have all of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiarize yourself with each part.
KIT CONTENTS
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
o {2} Wing Halves w/Ailerons and Hinges o {1} Fuselage o {1 } Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator and Hinges o { 1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder and Hinges o {2} Wing Struts
MAIN GEAR ASSEMBL Y
o {1 } W ire Main Gear Assembly o { 1 } Wire Nose Skid o { 2 } Nylon Mounting Straps w/4mm Slot o { 5 } Nylon Mounting Straps w/3mm Slot o { 2} 127mm Diameter W ire Spoke Wheels o {2 } Nylon Axle Spacers o { 2} Wheel Collars w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screws o {14} 3mm x 12mm W ood Screws
TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBL Y
o {1 } T ail Wheel W ire w/ Mounting Bracket o { 1} 25mm Diameter T ail Wheel o {2 } Wheel Collars w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screws o {3 } 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws
ELEV A T OR CONTROL SYSTEM
o {1 } 990mm Nylon Pushrod o {1 } 1.5mm x 50mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend o {1 } 1.5mm x 45mm Wire Threaded Each End o {1 } Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole o {1 } Nylon Control Horn o { 1 } Nylon Control Horn Backplate o {2 } 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM
o {1 } 990mm Nylon Pushrod o {1 } 1.5mm x 50mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend o {1 } 1.5mm x 45mm Wire Threaded Both Ends o {1 } Nylon Clevise w/1.5mm I.D. Hole o {1 } Nylon Control Horn o { 1 } Nylon Control Horn Backplate o {2 } 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM
o {1} 2mm x 300mm Pushrod W ire o {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM
o {2 } Nylon Clevises w/2mm I.D. Hole
o {2 } 2mm x 150mm Threaded Rod
o {2} Nylon Snap Keepers
o {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY
o {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams
o {4 } 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws
o {4} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws
o {4 } 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts
o { 4} 3mm Blind Nuts
o {12} 3mm Flat W ashers
MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS
o { 1} Aileron Servo Tray (W-39)
o { 1} Forward Dihedral Brace (W-40)
o {1 } Rear Dihedral Brace (W-41)
o {2 } W ing Hold Down Dowels (W-43)
o { 1} Fuselage Servo Tray (D-47)
o {6 } 3mm x 10mm Machine Screws
o {6 } 3mm Flat W ashers
o {4 } 3mm x 12mm W ood Screws
FUEL T ANK
o {1 } Molded Fuel Tank
o { 1 } 20mm Front Squash Plate
o { 1} 18mm Rear Squash Plate
o { 1} Rubber Stopper
o {1 } 70mm Length of Fuel Tubing
o { 1 } Metal W eighted Pick-Up
o { 3 ) Aluminum Tubes
o {1 } 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw
PILOT AND CANNON ASSEMBL Y
o {1} Prepainted Balsa Cannon Mount
o {2} Plastic Body Halves
o {2} Plastic Cannon Halves
o {2 } Plastic Head Halves
o { 1} Balsa Barrel Seat Platform
o {1 } Plastic Barrel Seat
o { 1} Plastic Barrel Seat Back
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ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
o {1}Hitec 4 or More Channel Radio w/4 Servos o {1}Dubro Foam Rubber # 513 o {1}Global Fuel Line # 115923 o {1}Arco # 64 Rubber Bands # 24649
FOR 2-STROKE ENGINE
o {1}Magnum XL .40-.46 T wo Stroke o {1}Magnum 1/4” Spinner Nut # 237310 o {1}Propeller T o Suit Engine o {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED
o Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 o Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 o Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 o Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 o Wilhold Silicon Sealer # 00684 o Electric Drill o Assorted Drill Bits o Modeling Knife o Wire Cutters o Machine Oil or V aseline
FOR 4-STROKE ENGINE
o {1}Magnum XL .52RFS Four Stroke o {1}Magnum 1/4” Spinner Nut # 237310 o {1}Propeller T o Suit Engine o {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115490
o Straight Edge Ruler o Dremel Tool w/Assorted Bits o Phillips Screwdriver o Z-Bend Pliers o 3mm Hex Wrench o Builders Triangle o 220 Grit Sandpaper o Masking T ape o Paper T owels o Rubbing Alcohol
TO FINISH PILOT AND CANNON
o T estors Contour Putty # 3511X o 320 Grit Sandpaper o Find & Medium Paint Brushes o 3M Fine Line Masking Tape # 218-06300 o Coverite Flat Clear Paint # COVR1280 o Paint Thinner o Tan, White, Brown and Orange - Mix to
make skin color and lip color
FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED
o Magnum 12V Electric Starter (# 361006) o Magnum 12V Fuel Pump (# 237377) o Magnum Locking Glow Clip (# 237440) o Global 12V Battery (# 110171 )
METRIC CONVERSION CHART
T o convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM
1/64” = .4mm 1/32” = .8mm 1/16” = 1.6mm 3/32” = 2.4mm 1/8” = 3.2mm 5/32” = 4.0mm
3/16” = 4.8mm 1/4” = 6.4mm 3/8” = 9.5mm 1/2” = 12.7mm 5/8” = 15.9mm 3/4” = 19.0mm
o Flat Black - Eyebrows, Mustache, Hair
and Cannon
o White and Blue - Eyes o Light Blue - Body o Gold - Simulate Buttons and Straps of Jacket o Brass - Cannon Trim o Brown - Cannon Barrel Seat
o Global 12V Charger (# 110270 ) o Magnum Power Panel (# 237390) o Global Field Buddy Flight Box (# 233072) o Magnum 4-Way Wrench (# 237420)
1 ” = 25.4mm 2 ” = 50.8mm 3 ” = 76.2mm 6 ” = 152.4mm 12 ” = 304.8mm 18 ” = 457.2mm
21 ” = 533.4mm 24 ” = 609.6mm 30 ” = 762.0mm 36 ” = 914.4mm
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If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly , please call or write to the address below:
Customer Service Center
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain V alley , CA. 92728
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
E-Mail: globalhobby@earthlink.net
**SUGGESTION** To avoid scratching your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until they are
needed for assembly . Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper , both to protect the aircraft and to protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags.
**NOTE** Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will assure proper assembly . Since the Blue Max is hand made from natural materials, every plane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. However, you should find the fit superior and assembly simple.
WING ASSEMBLY
PARTS REQUIRED
o {2} Wing Halves w/Ailerons and Hinges o {1 } Forward Dihedral Brace (W-40) o {1 } Rear Dihedral Brace (W-41)
INST ALL THE DIHEDRAL BRACES
o 1) Look at the face of each root rib on both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering ma­terial overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the covering from both of the root ribs. Leave about 1/16” of covering over­lapping so it does not pull away .
It is important that the covering be removed
from the root ribs. This will ensure an ad­equate wood-to-wood glue joint and prevent wing failure during flight.
o 2) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the center section of the forward and rear dihe­dral braces (W-40 and W-41). Draw a vertical line at this location on both braces. See photo
# 1 below .
Photo # 1
DRAW CENTERLINE
REAR
DIHEDRAL
BRACE
o 3) T est fit the dihedral braces into their re­spective boxes in each wing half. W-40 fits into the forward box and W-41 fits into the rear box. The braces should slide into each wing half up to the centerlines. If they do not, remove them and lightly sand the edges and tip of each one until the proper fit is obtained. See photo # 2 below .
Photo # 2
SLIDE IN UP
TO CENTERLINE
SLIDE IN UP
TO CENTERLINE
The dihedral braces are cut in the shape of
a "V". They should be installed with the "V" shape facing upright to form the proper dihedral angle when the wings are joined.
o 4) T est fit both of the wing halves together with the dihedral braces temporarily installed. Do not glue them in at this time! The wing halves should fit together tightly with little or no gaps in the center section joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of each brace. Reinstall the wing halves and braces and test the fit until you are satisfied that the center section joint is tight.
FORW ARD DIHEDRAL
BRACE
DRAW CENTERLINE
o 5) When satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, remove the dihedral braces.
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JOINING THE WING HAL VES
o 6) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . W orking with only one wing half for now , apply a thin layer of epoxy inside both dihedral brace boxes and on only half of each dihedral brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom as well as the sides and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
WING MOUNTING
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1 } Fuselage o { 2 } Wing Hold Down Dowels (W-43) o {2} Wing Struts o {6 } 3mm x 10mm Machine Screws o {6 } 3mm Flat Washers
INSTALL THE WING HOLD DOWN DOWELS
o 7) Slide the dihedral braces into the boxes up to the centerlines. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure before pro­ceeding. See photo # 3 below.
Photo # 3
o 8) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing halves together to double check that the wing halves still fit correctly .
o 9) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed halves of both dihedral braces, the inside of both dihedral brace boxes i n the second wing half and the entire surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
o 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from over the four predrilled holes in the fuselage sides. T wo holes are located on each side of the fuselage. See photo # 5 below .
Photo # 5
REMOVE COVERING
REMOVE COVERING
(both sides)
(both sides)
o 2) Slide one wing hold down dowel through the two forward holes in the fuselage sides and the second dowel through the two rear holes in the fuselage sides. Adjust the dowels so both ends of each dowel protrude from the fuselage sides an equal amount. See photo # 6 below.
Photo # 6
o 10) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at the leading and trailing edges. Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the wing halves in place until the epoxy cures. See
photo # 4 below .
Photo # 4
MASKING
TAPE
MASKING
TAPE
WING HOLD
DOWN DOWEL
o 3) When satisfied with the fit, use a pen and place a mark on each dowel at the point where they exit the fuselage sides.
o 4) Remove the dowels and mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the inside edges of all four holes in the fuselage. Carefully slide the dowels into place up to the marks made. Double check that they are centered and use paper towels and rubbing alcohol to remove any excess epoxy be­fore it cures.
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ALIGNING THE WING TO THE FUSELAGE
o 5) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the fuselage at both the front and rear of the wing saddle. Place a mark at both locations. See photo # 7 below .
Photo # 7
MARK
CENTERLINE
MARK
CENTERLINE
Photo # 9
REMOVE COVERING
WING TIP
AILERON
o 8) Place the wing into the wing saddle. Align the centerline of the wing at both the leading and trailing edges with the two marks you made on the fuselage.
These two marks will help you align the wing
when you install it on the fuselage. Y ou may wish to make these marks in permanent ink so you can align the wing correctly each time you install the wing. This will ensure the wing is aligned properly each time you fly the airplane.
INST ALL THE WING STRUTS
o 6) There are two preinstalled blind nuts that are used to mount the wing struts to the bottom of the fuselage. Using a modeling knife, care­fully remove the covering from over the two blind nut holes on the bottom of the fuselage. The holes are located 1/2” in from the fuselage sides and 8-1/4” back from the front of the firewall.
See photo # 8 below .
Photo # 8
REMOVE
COVERING
8-1/4”
o 9) Using a couple of # 64 rubber bands, temporarily secure the wing in place making sure it is aligned. T o correctly install the rubber bands, hook one over one of the front wing hold down dowels, carefully pull it back over the top of the wing and hook it over the rear hold down dowel on the same side. Install two rubber bands on each side for now .
o 10) Bolt the wing struts to the wing and to the fuselage using the six 3mm x 6mm machine screws and six 3mm flat washers. It may be necessary to move the wing slightly to properly align the holes in the struts with the blind nuts.
See photo # 10 below .
Photo # 10
3mm x
6mm
SCREW
3mm FLAT
WASHER
3mm FLATWASHER
3mm x 6mm
SCREW
o 7) There are also two blind nuts preinstalled in each wing half. They are located in plywood gus­sets, 20” out from the centerline of the wing. The rear blind nut is 2-3/4” forward of the trailing edge and the front blind nut is 3” back from the leading edge. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from over the two blind nut holes in each wing half. See photo # 9 at top right.
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
MOUNTING
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator and Hinges
ALIGN THE HORIZONT AL STABILIZER
o 1) Remove the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer and set it aside for now . Turn the stabi­lizer upside down on your work surface. The bot­tom side is the flat side and should be facing up.
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o 2) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer at the trailing edge and place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the bottom of the stabilizer. Also place center­line marks on the top of the stabilizer at the leading and trailing edges only. See photo # 11 below .
Figure # 1
B
A
A1
B1
Photo # 1 1
DRA W
CENTERLINE
o 3) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and place a mark at the centerline of the fuselage at the front and rear of the stabilizer mounting platform. These marks will be used to line up the stabilizer with the fuselage. See photo # 12 below .
Photo # 12
DRA W
CENTERLINE
DRAW
CENTERLINE
Figure # 2
C
C1
o 5) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place with T- pins or mask­ing tape, but do not glue at this time.
MOUNTING THE HORIZONT AL STABILIZER
o 6) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and le ft sides on the bottom of the stabilizer.
o 7) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them, using a modeling knife. See
photo # 13 below.
o 4) Attach the wing to the fuselage and re­move both ailerons. Set the horizontal stabilizer onto the stabilizer mounting platform on the fuse­lage. Align the centerline marks on top of the stabilizer with the centerline marks at the front and rear of the stabilizer mounting platform. When the marks are aligned hold the stabilizer in posi­tion using a couple of T-pins. Align the horizontal stabilizer with the wing. When viewed from the rear, the horizontal stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it is not level, use sandpaper and sand down the high side of the stabilizer mount­ing platform until the proper alignment is achieved. The tips of the stabilizer should also be equal dis­tance from the tips of the wing. See figures # 1
and # 2 at top right.
Photo # 13
REMOVE
COVERING
When cutting through the covering to re-
move it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it and cause pos­sible failure in flight.
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o 8) When you are satisfied that everything is aligned correctly , mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer to the bottom of the stabilizer mounting area and to the top of the stabilizer mounting platform on the fuselage. Set the stabilizer in place and re­align. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the sta­bilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using paper towels and rubbing alcohol.
o 4) Set the vertical stabilizer back in place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer .
See figure # 3 below .
Figure # 3
90º
VERTICAL STABILIZER
MOUNTING
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} V ertical Stabilizer w/Rudder and Hinges
ALIGN THE VERTICAL ST ABILIZER
o 1) Remove the rudder from the stabilizer . Slide the stabilizer into the slot in the top of the horizontal stabilizer . The rear edge of the vertical stabilizer should be even with the rear edge of the horizontal stabilizer and fuselage. It should also be pushed down completely into the slot.
o 2) Using a pen, draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the slot on the horizontal stabilizer.
o 3) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from just below the lines you drew . Also remove the covering from the bot­tom edge of the stabilizer. See photo # 14 below .
Photo # 14
MOUNTING THE VERTICAL ST ABILIZER
o 5) When you are satisfied that everything is aligned correctly , mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top horizontal stabilizer and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabi­lizer mounting area. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measure­ments once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using paper tow­els and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.
CONTROL SURFACE
INSTALLATION
PARTS REQUIRED
o {2} Ailerons w/Hinges o { 1 } Elevator w/Hinges o { 1 } Rudder w/Hinges o { 1 } Tail Wheel W ire w/Mounting Bracket o { 1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel o {2 } Wheel Collars w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screws o {3 } 3mm x 12mm W ood Screws
REMOVE
COVERING
When cutting through the covering to re-
move it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it. There may also be covering material overlapped on the in­side edges of the vertical stabilizer mounting slot in the horizontal stabilizer . Using a modeling knife, carefully remove this covering also. This will help insure a good glue joint.
HINGE THE AILERONS
o 1) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the two ailerons. W orking with one aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated in the precut hole in the leading edge of the aileron. Slide the aileron in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the wing. The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32” and the tip of the aileron should be flush with the tip of the wing.
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o 2) When satisfied with the fit, remove the ai­leron and slide a small piece of waxed paper be­tween the aileron torque rod and the trailing edge of the wing. See photo # 15 below.
Photo # 15
TORQUE ROD
WAXED PAPER
The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from gluing the torque rod to the trailing edge of
the wing. o 3) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the aileron torque rod. Also use a toothpick and pack epoxy into the predrilled hole in the aileron.
o 7) With the elevator tight against the stabi­lizer, rotate the elevator down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the elevator may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the elevator up and down about five to ten times to free it up.
INST ALL THE TAIL WHEEL WIRE
o 8) Using a ruler and a pen, measure up 3/4” from the bottom of the rudder, at the leading edge, and place a mark.
o 9) Using a 3/32” drill bit, drill a hole into the rudder at the mark made. Using a modeling knife, cut a groove from the hole, down to the bottom of the rudder . Make the hole deep enough for the tail wheel wire to set flush in. See figure # 4 below .
Figure # 4
o 4) Slide the aileron and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated in the precut hole in the leading edge of the aileron. With the aileron tight against the wing, rotate the aile­ron down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the aileron up and down about five to ten times to free it up.
o 5) Repeat steps # 1 - # 4 for the second aileron.
HINGE THE ELEV ATOR
o 6) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the elevator . Slide the elevator and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer. Slide the elevator in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the stabi­lizer . The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”. See photo # 16 below .
DRILL
HOLE
CUT
GROOVE
o 10) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy . Apply the epoxy to only those parts of the tail wheel wire that will be glued to the rudder. Pack epoxy into the hole you drilled in the leading edge of the rudder also.
o 11) Insert the tail wheel wire into the rudder . Clean up any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. See photo # 17 below.
Photo # 17
TAIL WHEEL
WIRE
Photo # 16
1/32”
ELEVATOR
STABILIZER
HINGE THE RUDDER
o 12) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the rudder . Slide the rudder and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer . Slide the rudder in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”.
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o 13) W ith the rudder tight against the stabi­lizer, rotate the rudder to one side about 45º. Ap­ply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the ex­posed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the rudder may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the rudder back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.
MOUNTING THE TAIL WHEEL BRACKET
o 14) Align the tail wheel mounting bracket with the centerline of the fuselage. Use a pen and mark the three mounting locations on the fuselage.
o 15) Move the mounting bracket to the side. Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill three pilot holes through the bottom of the fuselage at the marks you just made.
o 16) Secure the mounting bracket in place us­ing three 3mm x 12mm wood screws. See photo
# 18 below .
Photo # 18
3mm x 10mm
WOOD SCREWS
WHEEL
COLLAR
TAIL WHEEL
MAIN LANDING GEAR
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Wire Main Gear Assembly o { 2 } Nylon Mounting Straps w/4mm Slot o { 2 } Nylon Mounting Straps w/3mm Slot o { 2 } Nylon Axle Spacers o { 2} Wheel Collars w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screws o {8 } 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws o {2 } 127mm Diameter Wire Spoke Wheels
ALIGNING THE MAIN GEAR ASSEMBL Y
o 1) Inspect each of the nylon mounting straps. Some straps have 4mm molded slots and others have 3mm molded slots. T o attach the main gear assembly you will need two straps with 4mm molded slots and two straps with 3mm molded slots.
o 2) Set the main gear assembly in place on the bottom of the fuselage. The larger diameter wire (4mm) should face to the rear and the front edge of the forward gear wire should be 4” back from the firewall. See photo # 19 below.
Photo # 19
GEAR WIRE
FRONT
MOUNTING
BRACKET
INSTALLING THE T AIL WHEEL
o 17 ) Slide the wheel collar that has been preinstalled onto the tail wheel wire tight up against the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the 3mm x 6mm machine screw to hold it in place.
o 18) Install the 25mm diameter tail wheel onto the tail wheel wire. Secure the tail wheel in place using one wheel collar and one 3mm x 6mm ma­chine screw . Slide the wheel collar on enough so it is up against the tail wheel, but not so tight that the tail wheel won't turn. The tail wheel should rotate without binding.
o 3) While holding the gear assembly in this position, center it side-to-side on the fuselage. When satisfied with the alignment use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the gear in position.
INST ALLING THE MAIN GEAR ASSEMBLY
o 4) With the gear held firmly in position, place two 3mm nylon mounting straps, equal distance apart, over the front wire. Place two 4mm nylon mounting straps, equal distance apart, over the rear wire.
o 5) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through the fuselage for the mounting screws. Use the nylon straps as a guide for correct placement of the holes.
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o 6) Secure the gear assembly in place by in­stalling the eight 3mm x 12mm wood screws through the mounting straps and remove the masking tape. See photo # 20 below.
Photo # 20
3mm x10mm
WOOD SCREWS
INST ALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS
MOUNTING
STRAPS
o 7) Slide one nylon spacer onto each axle. Slide one 127mm diameter wire spoke wheel onto each axle and up against the nylon spacers. Se­cure the wheels in place by sliding one wheel col­lar onto each axle and up against the wheels. Tighten the 3mm x 6mm machine screw in the wheel collars. The wheels should be able to ro­tate without binding.
o 3) When satisfied with the alignment of the engine, remove the beams from the clamp and drill 1/8” holes through the mounting beams at the four engine mounting hole locations.
o 4) Mount the engine to the mounting beams using the four 3mm x 25mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four 3mm lock nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts completely .
If using an engine equipped with a remote
needle valve we recommend mounting the needle valve to the engine prior to installing the engine on the motor mount beams.
ALIGNING THE MOTOR MOUNT
o 5) The engine is mounted upright on the fire­wall. Using a ruler and a pen, measure and draw a vertical centerline and a horizontal centerline on the firewall. See photo # 22 below .
Photo # 22
ENGINE MOUNTING
PARTS REQUIRED
o {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams o {4 } 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws o {4} 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws o {12}3mm Flat Washers o {4 } 3mm Lock Nuts o {4 } 3mm Blind Nuts
MOUNTING ENGINE TO MOTOR MOUNT
o 1) Using a clamp or a vise, align the two motor mount beams and clamp them together. The beam halves are universal and the webbing should face the outside edges. See photo # 21 below.
Photo # 21
ALIGN EDGES
ALIGN EDGES
o 6) Using a ruler and a pen, measure 1/8” to the right of the vertical centerline (looking at the firewall) and draw a second vertical line. Measure 1/2” up from the horizontal centerline and draw a second horizontal line. Measure 7/8” down from the horizontal centerline and draw a third horizon­tal line. See photo # 23 below .
Photo # 23
1/2”
7/8”
o 2) Mark the locations of the four engine mounting holes on the beams using a pencil. For the engine to align properly , it is important that the front edge of the engine's drive washer be 3-3/4” forward from the rear edge of the mount­ing beams.
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o 7) With your engine still installed on the mo­tor mount beams, use a ruler and measure the width between the predrilled mounting holes in the motor mount beams. This distance will vary depending on the brand and size of the engine you have cho­sen. See photo # 24 below.
Photo # 24
Photo # 26
NOSE SKID
D = DISTANCE
BETWEEN
MOTOR MOUNT
BEAMS
D
o 8) Divide the measurement found in step # 7 in half. Measure this resulting distance and draw one vertical line to the right and one to the left of the second vertical line. See photo
# 25 below .
Photo # 25
o 9) Hold the motor mount assembly up to the firewall and double check that the four intersect­ing lines line up with the four predrilled holes in the motor mount beams.
The motor mount assembly is offset to the
airplane's left side (looking from the rear) to compensate for the 2º of right thrust built into the firewall. Offsetting the engine will allow the crank­shaft to align with the centerline of the fuselage.
MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO FIREW ALL
o 10) Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill the four mount­ing holes through the firewall for the motor mount.
o 11) Mount the motor mount assembly to the firewall using the four 3mm x 20mm machine screws, four 3mm flat washers and four 3mm blind nuts. Tighten the screws completely until the blind nuts have been completely seated in the back of the firewall. See photo # 26 at top right.
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Wire Nose Skid o { 3 } Nylon Mounting Straps w/3mm Slot o { 6} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws
ALIGN THE NOSE SKID
o 1) Set the nose skid onto the front of the fire­wall. The vertical wire of the skid should be 1/8” to the left of the centerline of the firewall (looking at the firewall). T o achieve the correct height, the lower edge of the horizontal wire should be 3/8” up from the bottom of the fuselage.
o 2) When satisfied with the alignment use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the skid in position. See photo # 27 below.
Photo # 27
3/8”
ENGINE MOUNT
NOSE SKID
INST ALLING THE NOSE SKID
REMOVED FOR
CLARITY. FUSELAGE
SHOWN UPSIDE DOWN.
o 3) With the nose skid held firmly in position, place one nylon mounting strap over the horizon­tal wire and one over the shorter vertical wire, next to the motor mount. Place the third nylon strap over the rear section of the nose skid, on the fuselage bottom.
o 4) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through the firewall and fuselage bottom for the six mounting screws. Use the nylon straps as a guide for correct placement of the holes.
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o 5) Secure the nose skid in place by install­ing the six 3mm x 12mm wood screws through the mounting straps and remove the masking tape.
See photo # 28 below.
Photo # 28
3mm x 10mm
WOOD SCREWS
o 4) Carefully bend the longer of the two tubes up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube. When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank.
MOUNTING
STRAPS
FUEL TANK
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Molded Fuel T ank o {1} Rubber Stopper o {1 } 20mm Diameter Front Squash Plate o {1 } 18mm Diameter Rear Squash Plate o {1 } 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw o {1 } Weighted Metal Pick-Up o { 3 } Aluminum Tubes o { 1} 70mm Silicon Fuel Tube
FUEL T ANK ASSEMBLY
o 1) The fuel tank assembly incudes 3 differ­ent length aluminum tubes. Discard the shortest of the three. It will not be used.
You can determine the top of the tank by
looking at the front of it. Notice that the hole in the front of the tank is not centered. The tall side is the top of the tank.
o 5) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the weighted pickup attached to one end, onto the fuel pickup tube. See photo # 29 below .
Photo # 29
FRONT
SQUASH
PLATE
PICKUP
TUBE
RUBBER STOPPER
REAR SQUASH
PLATE
VENT TUBE
SILICON
TUBING
WEIGHTED
PICKUP
o 6) Test fit the stopper assembly into the tank. It may be necessary to remove some of the plas­tic flashing around the tank opening using a mod­eling knife. If flashing is present, make sure none falls into the tank when you remove it.
The 40mm length tube is used for the fuel line pickup and the 70mm tube is used for
the vent/pressure line.
o 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper carefully smooth each end of the two tubes. This will pre­vent the fuel line from being cut.
o 3) Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper until 1/2” protrudes from the front of the stopper . Slide the 20mm diameter front squash plate over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the 18mm diameter rear squash plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 20mm machine screw into the center hole in the front squash plate, then screw it through the stopper and into the rear squash plate. Do not completely tighten the screw at this time.
o 7) With the stopper assembly in place the weighted pickup should be about 3/8” away from the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank. The vent tube should be just below the top of the tank, but not rub against the tank. Adjust the tubes accordingly .
o 8) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm ma­chine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split.
FUEL T ANK INSTALLA TION
o 9) Slide the fuel tank into the fuel tank com­partment in the front of the airplane. The top of the tank should face the top of the fuselage and the stopper assembly should also engage the pre­drilled hole in the firewall.
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o 10) Secure the fuel tank in place using sev­eral pieces of foam rubber. Seal any gaps be­tween the stopper assembly and the firewall us­ing silicon sealer. Be careful not to get any sealer inside the aluminum tubing.
THROTTLE LINKAGE
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} 1.5mm x 300mm Wire Threaded One End
INST ALLING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE
o 1) Locate and drill a 3/32” hole through the firewall for the throttle pushrod wire to pass through (you may need to temporarily remove the engine). The hole should be level with the throttle arm, but may need to be moved slightly to clear the fuel tank depending on the engine used.
o 2) Remove the servos from the servo tray. Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the po­sition of the four servo tray mounting holes on the top of the tray . T wo holes are located 3/8” back from the front edge of the tray and 1/8” in from each side. T wo holes are also located 3/8” for­ward of the rear edge and 1/8” in from the sides.
See photo # 31 below.
Photo # 31
MAKE
MARKS
3/8”
1/8”
SERVO TRAY
1/8”
3/8”
MARKS
MAKE
o 2) Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire through the hole and into the fuselage. Remove the throttle arm from the carburetor and attach the Z-bend to the outer hole in the arm.
o 3) Reattach the throttle arm to the carbure­tor and use a pair of pliers to make any necessary bends in the wire so it does not bind when the carburetor is moved from idle to the full throttle position. See photo # 30 below.
Photo # 30
PUSHROD
WIRE
THROTTLE
ARM
SERVO INSTALLATION
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Aileron Servo Tray (W-39) o { 1} Fuselage Servo Tray (D-47) o {4 } 3mm x 12mm W ood Screws
INST ALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVO TRA Y
o 1) Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto three servos. T est fit the servos into the precut servo holes in the servo tray.
o 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through the servo tray at the four mounting hole locations.
o 4) Set the servo tray onto the preinstalled support rails just to the rear of the forward bulk­head. The front of the tray should be pushed firmly up against the forward bulkhead.
o 5) Using a 1/16” drill bit and the pilot holes in the servo tray as a guide, drill four holes through the support rails.
o 6) Secure the tray in place using four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. See photo # 32 below .
Photo # 32
3mm x 12mm
WOOD
SCREWS
INST ALLING THE AILERON SERVO TRA Y
o 7) Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the fourth servo. T est fit the servo into the aileron servo tray (W-39).
Because the size of servos differ , you may
need to adjust the size of the precut open­ings. Y ou may also need to use a modeling knife and cut a groove to allow room for the servo wires.
Because the size of servos differ , you may
need to adjust the size of the precut open­ings. Y ou may also need to use a modeling knife and cut a groove to allow room for the servo wire.
15
o 8) Place the servo tray, with the aileron servo, into the precut opening in the bottom of the wing. The servo should be orientated with the output shaft towards the trailing edge of the wing.
o 9) Remove the servo tray and using a model­ing knife, carefully cut a notch in the wing to allow room for the servo wire. See photo # 33 below.
INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SER VOS
o 13) Install the three fuselage servos using the wood screws provided with your radio sys­tem. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the tray be­fore installing the screws. This will help prevent the wood from splitting. Install the servos with the output shafts in the orientation shown. See
photo # 35 below .
Photo # 33
CUT NOTCH
PRECUT SERVO
OPENING
EDGE
TRAILING
o 10) Set the tray back in place and trace around it using a pen. Remove the tray and using a modeling knife, remove the covering from just inside the lines.
o 11) Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy and glue the tray in place. Be care­ful not to get any epoxy on the servo. Allow the epoxy to cure completely .
There will be some gaps around the outer edges of the tray . Use enough epoxy to com-
pletely fill any gaps between the tray and wing.
INST ALLING THE AILERON SERVO
o 12) Install the servo using the wood screws provided with your radio system. Drill 1/16” pi­lot holes through the tray before installing the screws. This will help prevent the wood from splitting. See photo # 34 below.
Photo # 35
E
FRONT
T
E = ELEVATOR
R
T = THROTTLE R = RUDDER
THROTTLE CONNECTOR
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
INSTALLING THE THROTTLE CONNECTOR
o 1) Install one adjustable servo connector through the second hole out from the center of one servo arm. Y ou may have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm to accommodate the servo connector. Remove the excess material from the servo arm using wire cutters. See figure # 5 below .
Figure # 5
CONNECTOR
SERVO ARM
SET SCREW
NUT
Photo # 34
SERVO TRAY
EDGE
TRAILING
After installing the adjustable servo connec-
tor apply a small drop of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosening during flight.
o 2) Turn on the radio system. Check to en­sure that the throttle servo output shaft is moving in the correct direction.
16
o 3) Slide the adjustable servo connector/ throttle arm assembly over the end of the throttle pushrod wire. Position the throttle stick and the throttle trim at their lowest positions.
o 4) Manually push the carburetor barrel fully closed. Angle the servo arm forward about 30º from center and attach it to the servo. The arm should face the right side of the airplane (looking from the rear). With the carburetor barrel fully closed, tighten the set screw in the adjustable servo connector.
Figure # 6
MACHINE
CONTROL HORN
SCREW
RUDDER
BACKPLATE
o 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 3/32” drill bit and the control horn as a guide and drill the mounting holes through the rudder.
o 5) Remove the excess throttle pushrod wire using wire cutters. See photo # 36 below.
Photo # 36
PUSHROD
WIRE
SERVO
ARM
SERVO
CONNECTOR
o 6) T est the movement of the throttle push­rod. Full forward stick and full forward trim should result in the carburetor barrel opening completely . Full back stick and full forward trim should result in the approximate idle setting. Full back stick and full down trim should result in the carburetor barrel closing fully .
o 7) When satisfied that the pushrod linkage is adjusted correctly and no binding is present, install the servo arm set screw .
RUDDER PUSHROD
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1 } Nylon Control Horn w/Nylon Back Plate o {2 } 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws o {1 } 990mm Nylon Pushrod o {1 } 1.5mm x 45mm Wire Threaded Both Ends o {1 } 1.5mm x 50mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend o {1 } Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole
INSTALLING THE RUDDER CONTROL HORN
o 1) The centerline of the rudder control horn is located on the left side of the rudder (looking from behind) 1-3/8” up from the bottom of the rudder. Position the control horn so the clevis attachment holes are directly in-line with the hinge line. The control horn should also be parallel with the hinge line. See figure # 6 at top right.
o 3) Mount the control horn to the rudder by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the rudder and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Y ou do not want to crush the wood.
INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD
o 4) Thread the 1.5mm x 45mm threaded wire into one end of one nylon pushrod. For safety , thread the wire no less than 5/16” into the pushrod.
o 5) Thread the nylon clevis onto the oppo­site end of the 1.5mm x 45mm threaded wire. It should be threaded no less than 5/16” onto the wire also.
o 6) Using a modeling knife remove the cov­ering from over the rudder pushrod exit slot. Looking from the back of the airplane, the slot is located on the left side of the fuselage, 1-7/8” forward of the rudder hinge line and 3/4” below the horizontal stabilizer.
o 7) Insert the plain end of the nylon pushrod into the fuselage from the back. Snap the clevis onto the rudder control horn. Move the rudder back and forth to ensure there is no binding. See
photo # 37 below.
Photo # 37
NYLON
PUSHROD
PUSHROD
WIRE
NYLON CLEVIS
NYLON
CONTROL
HORN
17
o 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the rudder in neutral.
towards the pushrod exit in the fuselage side. See
figure # 7 below .
o 9) Locate a long servo arm. Using wire cut­ters, remove all but one of the arms. Install the Z-bend in the 1.5mm x 50mm wire into the outer hole in the servo arm.
o 10) W ith the rudder and rudder servo in neu­tral, install the servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be positioned perpendicular to the fuse­lage side and point out towards the side.
o 11) Using a pen, place a mark on the nylon rudder pushrod where the tip of the threaded wire overlaps it. Use a modeling knife and cut off the nylon pushrod 5/16” in front of the mark. This will leave enough space so the threaded wire can thread into the pushrod at least 5/16”.
o 12) Remove the servo arm from the servo and thread the wire into the pushrod. Y ou can thread it in further or back it out to achieve the correct length.
o 13) When satisfied with the alignment, install the servo arm set screw and remove the masking tape from the rudder . See photo # 38 below .
Photo # 38
PUSHROD
WIRE
NYLON
PUSHROD
Figure # 7
MACHINE
CONTROL HORN
SCREW
ELEVATOR
BACKPLATE
o 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 3/32” drill bit and the control horn as a guide and drill the mounting holes through the elevator.
o 3) Mount the control horn to the elevator by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the elevator and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Y ou do not want to crush the wood.
INSTALLING THE ELEVA TOR PUSHROD
o 4) Thread the 1.5mm x 45mm threaded wire into one end of the second nylon pushrod. For safety , thread the wire no less than 5/16” into the pushrod.
o 5) Thread the nylon clevis onto the oppo­site end of the 1.5mm x 45mm threaded wire. It should be threaded no less than 5/16” onto the wire also.
PUSHROD
TUBE
ELEVATOR PUSHROD
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1 } Nylon Control Horn w/Nylon Back Plate o {2 } 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws o {1 } 990mm Nylon Pushrod o {1 } 1.5mm x 45mm Wire Threaded Both Ends o {1 } 1.5mm x 50mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend o {1 } Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole
INSTALLING THE ELEV AT OR CONTROL HORN
o 1) The centerline of the elevator control horn is located on the bottom right side of the elevator, 3/4” out from the fuselage side. Posi­tion the control horn so the clevis attachment holes are directly in-line with the hinge line. The control horn should also be angled slightly
o 6) Using a modeling knife remove the cov­ering from over the elevator pushrod exit slot. Looking from the back of the airplane, the slot is located on the right side of the fuselage, 1-7/8” forward of the rudder hinge line and 1/2” below the horizontal stabilizer.
o 7) Insert the plain end of the nylon pushrod into the fuselage from the back. Snap the clevis onto the elevator control horn. Move the eleva­tor up and down to ensure there is no binding.
See photo # 39 below.
Photo # 39
NYLON
PUSHROD
PUSHROD
WIRE
NYLON CLEVIS
CONTROL
HORN
18
o 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the elevator in neutral.
o 9) Locate a long servo arm and using wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms. Install the Z-bend in the 1.5mm x 50mm wire into the outer hole in the servo arm.
Figure # 8
WING
7/8”
TORQUE
ROD
ADJUSTABLE
CONTROL HORN
o 10) With the elevator and elevator servo in neutral, install the servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be positioned perpendicular to the fu­selage side and point out towards the side.
o 11) Using a pen, place a mark on the nylon elevator pushrod where the tip of the wire over­laps it. Use a modeling knife and cut off the nylon pushrod 5/16” in front of the mark. This will leave enough space so the threaded wire can thread into the pushrod at least 5/16”.
o 12) Remove the servo arm from the servo and thread the wire into the pushrod. Y ou can thread it in further or back it out to achieve the correct length.
o 13) When satisfied with the alignment, install the servo arm set screw and remove the masking tape from the elevator . See photo # 40 below.
Photo # 40
PUSHROD
WIRE
o 2) Thread one nylon clevis at least 5/16” onto each of the two 2mm x 150mm threaded rods.
o 3) With the servo centered, install one dual takeoff servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be installed so it is parallel with the trailing edge of the wing.
o 4) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the ailerons and the trailing edge of the wing, to hold the two ailerons in neutral.
o 5) Snap the clevises onto the adjustable con­trol horns. With the servo arm and ailerons cen­tered, use a pen and mark on the wires where they cross over the outer holes in the servo arm.
o 6) Using pliers, make an L-bend in each wire at the marks made. Use wire cutters and cut off all but 1/4” of the excess wire.
NYLON
PUSHROD
PUSHROD
TUBE
AILERON LINKAGE
PARTS REQUIRED
o {2} 2mm x 150mm Threaded Wire o {2 } Nylon Clevises w/2mm I.D. Hole o { 2} Nylon Snap Keepers o {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
INST ALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE
o 1) Thread one nylon adjustable control horn onto each aileron torque rod. Thread them on until they are 7/8” above the bottom surface of the wing. See figure # 8 at top right.
19
o 7) Push the L-bends down through the holes in the servo arm. Adjust the length of the wires by turning the nylon clevises in or out until the correct length is achieved. Hold the wires in place using two nylon snap keepers. See photo
# 41 below.
Photo # 41
ADJUSTABLE
CONTROL
HORN
PUSHROD
WIRE
NYLON CLEVIS
SNAP KEEPER
PILOT AND CANNON
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Prepainted Balsa Cannon Mount o {2} Plastic Body Halves o {2} Plastic Cannon Halves o {2 } Plastic Head Halves o { 1} Balsa Barrel Seat Platform o {1 } Plastic Barrel Seat o { 1} Plastic Barrel Seat Back
BARREL SEA T ASSEMBLY
o 1) Using a modeling knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors, trim off the upper section of the barrel seat at the molded scribe line. Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, care­fully sand the edges smooth, being careful to keep the radius flat.
o 2) Glue the balsa barrel seat platform into place in the top of the barrel seat using Kwik Bond Thick C/A. The precovered side should face up and the top of the platform should be flush with the top sides of the barrel seat. See photo # 42 below.
Photo # 42
MAKE FLUSH
BARREL
SEAT
o 3) T est fit the barrel seat into the fuselage. The seat rests on top of the two angled balsa stand­offs preglued to the fuselage floor . It is orientated with the small diameter portion facing down.
o 4) Using a modeling knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors cut out the barrel seat back along the molded scribe lines. Leave about a 1/8” lip around the bottom of the seat for a gluing surface. See
photo # 43 below.
Photo # 43
BARREL SEAT
PLATFORM
o 5) T est fit the seat back onto the barrel seat, inside the fuselage. Using a pen place marks on the seat back where the pushrod tubes contact it on either side. Remove the seat back and cut out only those areas that interfere with the push­rod tubes. T est fit the seat back once more and make any further adjustments until you are sat­isfied with the fit.
o 6) Remove the seat back and the seat from the fuselage. If you wish to detail the cockpit area in the fuselage, do so at this time.
o 7) Paint the barrel seat and barrel seat back to taste using T estors paints. W e painted the out­side of the barrel seat and the outside of the seat back brown. The inside of the seat back was painted black.
PILOT AND CANNON ASSEMBL Y
o 8) Using a modeling knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors, trim off the rounded edges on the re­maining plastic parts. These include the cannon halves, body halves and head halves. Use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and sand all of the edges smooth, flat and straight.
Pay careful attention to keeping all of the
edges straight. This will make joining the halves much easier.
o 9) Using scissors, cut out small tabs about 1/8” wide and 1/4” long from the excess plastic that was trimmed off in the previous steps. Bend each of the tabs at the middle into a shallow "V" shape.
o 10) Using thin C/A glue tabs into only one half of each shape (head, body and cannon) at several locations along the edges. See photo
# 44 below.
Photo # 44
TABS
TABS
BARREL
SEAT BACK
LEAV E
1/8” LIP
20
o 11) After the glue has completely cured, trial fit each of the halves together . Make any adjust­ments necessary to get each half to fit as close as possible. When satisfied with the fit, glue the halves together using Kwik Bond Thin C/A. W ork one tab at a time, holding the halves tightly together and applying one drop of glue until each part is completely glued together .
o 12) After the glue has completely cured, use 220 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the seams of each part. If any gaps are present they can be filled using T estors Contour Putty. See photo
# 45 below.
Photo # 45
FILL SEAMS
AND SAND
SMOOTH
o 13) After the filler has dried, sand it smooth and repeat as necessary until any gaps are com­pletely filled. Paint the parts to suit your tastes. Page # 3 lists the T estors colors we used for each part of the cannon, body and head.
o 14) Because the T estors paints are not fuel proof, we suggest spraying all of the parts with Coverite Flat Clear # COVR1280. This will pre­vent fuel from damaging the paint.
BARREL SEA T INSTALLA TION
PILOT INST ALLATION
o 17) Roughen the bottom of the head and the top of the body using 220 grit sandpaper . Using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy , glue the head to the body . Allow the epoxy to fully cure.
o 18) Roughen the bottom of the body. Using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy , glue the body as­sembly onto the barrel seat. The body should be centered on the seat and positioned as far back on the seat as possible. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding. See photo # 47 below.
Photo # 47
CANNON INST ALLATION
o 19) Place the balsa cannon mount in front of the pilot, on top of the wing. Set the cannon into the mount. The rear edge of the cannon mount should be 3/4” in front of the trailing edge and centered over the centerline of the wing. See
photo # 48 below.
Photo # 48
o 15) Using 220 grit sandpaper , roughen the bottom of the barrel seat. Using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy , glue the barrel seat into place inside the fu­selage. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.
o 16) Using 220 grit sandpaper, roughen the bottom of the barrel seat back. Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, glue the seat back to the top of the barrel seat. See photo # 46 below .
Photo # 46
21
CANNON
PILOT
CANNON
MOUNT
o 20) Using 220 grit sandpaper , roughen the bottom of the cannon only where it contacts the mount. Also roughen the surface of the mount that contacts the cannon. Glue the cannon in place on the mount using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy .
o 21) After the epoxy has cured, use a pen and draw an outline on the wing where the can­non mount will be glued in place.
o 22) Using a modeling knife, remove the cov­ering from just inside the lines. Using 220 grit sandpaper, roughen the bottom sides of the can­non mount. Glue the cannon mount in place using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy .
FINAL ASSEMBLY
INST ALLING THE RECEIVER AND BATTER Y
o 1) Plug the servo leads into the receiver. Plug the aileron extension and switch that came with your radio system into the receiver as well.
o 2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Po­sition them just in front of the wing's trailing edge, on the fuselage floor. Use extra foam pieces to hold them in position.
When balancing the airplane you may need
to move the battery or receiver forward to achieve proper balance. In our test airplane, using a Magnum XL .52 four stroke engine, the battery and receiver were mounted as per step # 2.
INST ALLING THE PROPELLER
o 6) Install the propeller recommended for your engine and secure it in place using the after­market spinner nut that you purchased separately .
BALANCE
o 1) It is critical that your airplane be bal­anced correctly . Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The cen-
ter of gravity is located 3-1/2” back from the leading edge of the wing, at the fuse­lage sides. This location is recommended for
initial test flying and trimming. There is a 1/2” margin forward and aft, but it is not recom­mended that the center of gravity be located any further back than 4”. Balance the Blue
Max right side up with the fuel tank empty.
o 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage. Using a couple of pieces of masking tape, place them on the bottom side of the wing 3-1/2” back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides.
o 3) Place your fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane.
o 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through the side of the fuselage, opposite the muffler , for the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out of the fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabilizer us­ing a rubber band. See figure # 9 below .
Figure # 9
ANTENNA
MODIFIED SERVO
ARM
INST ALLING THE SWITCH
CUT
RUBBER
BAND
TO VERTICAL
STABILIZER
o 4) Mount the switch to the fuselage side, opposite the muffler, at the rear of the servo com­partment. Use the faceplate of the switch itself to locate at make the necessary cutouts and holes.
INST ALLING THE FUEL LINES
o 5) Cut to length two pieces of silicon fuel line. One piece should be connected between the fuel pickup tube at the tank and to the fuel nipple on the carburetor . The second piece should be connected between the pressure/vent tube at the tank and to the pressure nipple on the muffler .
o 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose heavy . T o correct this first move the bat­tery pack further back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does not correct it, stick small amounts of weight on the fuselage under the hori­zontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy . To correct this, move the bat­tery and receiver forward or if this is not pos­sible, stick weight onto the firewall. When bal­anced correctly , the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.
Once you have flown and trimmed the Blue
Max, the balance point can be moved for­ward or aft 1/2” to change the flight performance. Moving the balance point back will cause the Blue Max to be more responsive, but less stable. Mov­ing the balance point forward will cause the Blue Max to be more stable, but less responsive. Do
not fly the Blue Max beyond the recom­mended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!
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LA TERAL BALANCE
After you have balanced the Blue Max on the C.G. you must laterally balance it. Do-
ing this will help the airplane track better.
FLIGHT PREPARATION
o 1) Check the operation and direction of the elevator, rudder , ailerons and throttle.
o 1) Turn the airplane upside down. Attach one loop of heavy string to the engine crankshaft and one to the tail wheel wire. With the wings level carefully lift the airplane by the string. This may require two people to make it easier .
o 2) If one side of the wing falls, that side is heavier than the opposite. Add small amounts of lead weight to the bottom side of the heavier wing half. Follow this procedure until the wing stays level when you lift the airplane.
CONTROL THROWS
o 1) W e highly recommend setting up the Blue Max using the control throws listed below . W e have listed control throws for both initial test fly­ing/sport flying and aerobatic flying.
o 2) Turn on the radio system and with the trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the con­trol surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises. The servo arms should be centered also.
o A) Plug in your radio system per the
manufacturer's instructions and turn everything on.
o B) Check the elevator first. Pull back on the elevator stick. The elevator should go up. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
o C) Check the rudder . Looking from be­hind the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The rudder should move to the right. The tail wheel should move to the right as well. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
o D) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle stick forward should open the carbure­tor barrel. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direc­tion.
o 3) When the elevator , rudder and aileron control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the amount of the control throw in each surface. The control throws should be mea-
sured at the widest point of each surface!
INITIAL FL YING/SPORT FL YING
Ailerons: 3/8” up 3/8” down El eva tor : 1/2” up 1/2” down Rudder: 3/4” right 3/4” left
AEROBATIC FL YING
Ailerons: 3/4” up 3/4” down El eva tor : 3/4” up 3/4” down Rudder: 1-1/4” right 1-1/4” left
Do not use the aerobatic settings for ini­tial test flying or sport flying.
o 4) By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of throw of that control sur­face. Moving the clevis toward the control surface will increase the amount of throw .
o E) From behind the airplane, look at the aileron on the right wing. Move the aileron stick to the right. The aileron should move up and the other aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmit­ter to change the direction.
o 2) Check Control Surface Throw .
o A ) The Rudder should move 3/4” left
and 3/4” right from center . If it moves too far , move the pushrod clevis to a hole in the rudder horn away from the rudder . Do the opposite if there is not enough throw .
o B ) The elevator should move 1/2” up and 1/2” down from center . If it moves too far, move the pushrod clevis to a hole in the elevator horn away from the elevator . Do the opposite if there is not enough throw .
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o C) The ailerons should move 3/8” up and 3/8” down from center . T o adjust the amount of aileron throw , first move the pushrods on the servo arm. Move the pushrods toward the cen­ter of the servo for less movement. Move the pushrods farther away from the center of the servo for more movement. If enough movement cannot be achieved in this manner, thread the adjustable torque rod horns farther down the torque rods, toward the wing. It is important that both ailerons move the same amount, both up and down.
o D) Once the control throws and move­ments are set, tubing must be added to the clev­ises to ensure they do not release in the air. A length of clear tubing was provided in the kit for this. Cut it into the 1/4” pieces and slip one piece over each clevis.
PREFLIGHT CHECK
o 1) Completely charge your transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.
LIFT
DRAG
THRUST
WEIGHT
Controlling the Blue Max
Flying is three dimensional, therefore, all aircraft operate on three axis: roll, yaw and pitch. Roll is the wing tips raising and lowering. Y aw is the nose moving from right to left. Pitch is seen as the nose moving up and down. Maintaining flight is the act of overcoming weight and drag with lift and thrust while properly controlling all three axis.
PITCH AXIS YAW AXIS
o 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the Blue Max to ensure everything is tight and well bonded. This should include all of the con­trol surface hinges as well.
o 3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty .
o 4) Check the control surfaces. All should move in the correct direction and not bind.
o 5) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.
BASICS OF FLIGHT
T o begin you should know how your Blue Max operates. First, there are four forces operating on a flying aircraft; Lift, W eight, Thrust and Drag. The engine will create thrust to overcome the drag. In times when the engine is off, gravity pulling the plane down can act as thrust (how gliders work). The wing flies through the air as a result of the thrust and causes lift to overcome the weight of the aircraft.
ROLL
AXIS
Choosing the Blue Max greatly simplifies these activities. First, it takes very little thrust to over­come the drag. So much so that the Blue Max glides with no power at all.
Second, the wing is a high lift design that easily overcomes the weight which means that the Blue Max can fly very slowly .
Controlling the plane
If you have never controlled any vehicle by ra­dio control, then this step can be especially im­portant. Some of the basic coordination can be learned on the ground by simply practicing taxi­ing the aircraft. First, remove the wing and cover the open area of the fuselage where the wing would normally go with a thin piece of card­board. This will protect the radio equipment from engine exhaust.
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Check the controls. Make sure the throttle and
steering are working properly . Start your engine
and at low throttle, try driving the airplane around
on the ground. A large, unused parking lot is
especially good for this practice. Remember,
moving the stick to the right or left is in relation to
the airplane's right or left. Keep practicing, it will
take some getting used to. Try figure 8's and rect-
angular patterns. Don't go to fast! The Blue Max
is not a car! This will also give you a chance to
make sure the Blue Max's tail wheel tracks
straight. It may be necessary to adjust the rudder
linkage or trim.
Learn to control the throttle too. Most flying will
be done at less than full throttle. However, take-
offs will be at full throttle and landings will be with
throttle at idle of completely off. So, get used to
setting the throttle at different speeds.
the airplane is moving fast. Gently apply a small amount of up elevator to lift the nose. The wing will lift the plane off the ground. At this point let off of the rudder and use the ailerons to keep the wings level. Use the elevator to keep the nose up slightly . Allow the plane to climb on its own. Climbing too fast will cause the plane to pitch up and the nose will (called a stall). If this happens, allow the nose to drop slightly (which will give the airplane more speed) and then apply a small amount of up elevator to bring the nose level.
Once the airplane has reached 50 to 100 feet of altitude, it is time to level the plane and then try a turn. T o level the plane, simply move the elevator stick to neutral. Keep the wings level using the ailerons. If the plane still climbs slightly or turns, adjust the trim tabs until the airplane flies straight with no stick input.
If you can easily steer the Blue Max around on
the ground, it's time to take that experience and
apply it to flight. First, let's lay out the basic ma-
neuvers that will make up your training flights.
1) Takeoff
2) Climb-out
3) Level Flight
4) Standard Turns
5) Descent
6) Landing
All flight is based on these few tasks. Here, we've
laid them out in the same order they will be during
flight. Learn these basics and you will soon fly
your Blue Max with great success. Now look at
each maneuver individually . Before flight, make
sure you are completely familiar with the func-
tions of the transmitter including all controls and
trim tabs.
T akeoff and Climb-out requires that the plane be
facing into the wind. Use the rudder to keep the
plane tracking straight as engine power is in-
creased. Because the Blue Max is a tail dragger
setup the airplane will want to naturally pull to the
left. This is caused by the torque of the engine as
power is increased. Gently apply a sufficient
amount of right rudder to keep the airplane
straight. Allow the airplane to continue to roll on
the ground until the tail is up off the ground and
Now try a turn (before the airplane gets too far away). T o turn, apply aileron until the wing drops about 15 degrees (or the wing tip is just below the fuselage). As the wing drops begin to apply up elevator. Up elevator will maintain the plane's altitude and will hold it in the turn. T o prevent the plane from turning too steep, as soon as a good bank is established, release the aileron control. Use only the elevator to maintain altitude and hold the plane in the turn. Once it has turned enough, apply opposite aileron to level the wings. As this opposite aileron is applied, slowly release the up elevator.
Now continue level flight, which will be a small series of tiny corrections of elevator and rudder to keep the plane straight and level. If you lost altitude during the turn, this is a good time to climb out again.
Before the plane gets too far away , try another turn. Continue making standard turns and keep the airplane over the flying field.
The next maneuver will be descent. Usually , one pairs descent with landing, but in fact, most model airplanes are constantly descending and climbing out. Having the ability to perform a good con­trolled descent is important. T o descend, simply throttle back to about 1/4 throttle. As the throttle is reduced, allow the plane's nose to drop some.
25
The descent should be gentle so let the nose drop about 10 to 20 degrees. Keep the wing level unless a turn is required. If you must turn, bank usual to start the turn but only hold about half of the normal amount of up elevator you usually hold to maintain a turn. In doing so, you will not slow the airplane too much. When you've reached your desired altitude, level the wings and add throttle as you add some up elevator to level the plane.
The final maneuver will be landing. For your first landing, the goal should be to get the plane down anywhere on the field without hitting anything. Landings should always be made into the wind. Usually , it is easiest to et up for a landing by mak­ing a landing approach. The first part of the land­ing approach is the descent. Descend going with the (opposite of the direction you will be land­ing). Once you've descended to an altitude of 30-50 feet, turn into the wind. At this point level the wings, throttle back to idle and allow the nose to drop to descend to the ground without getting too slow . When the plane is 10 feet off the ground (just above eye level), apply small amounts of up elevator to slow the descent and to slow the plane. Remember to keep the wings level. Now the plane should descend but will seem like the nose has not dropped much. If the plane doesn't de­scend, allow the nose to drop a little. Just before the plane touches down, apply some up elevator to the level the plane with the ground. Because the engine is at idle (or off completely) the plane will still drop and touch down.
Things to avoid
1) Stalling. Stalling is when the air stops
flowing over the wing properly . For the Blue
Max, this only happens when the airplane is
flying too slow . A stall normally results in the
nose dropping uncontrollably . If a stall does
occur, allow the nose to drop, which will in-
crease the airspeed, then apply up elevator
to level the plane. Remember to not pull too
much up elevator or the stall may occur again.
If the plane seems too fast or getting into too steep a turn, try letting all the controls go to neutral, then reduce the throttle and make corrections to level the wings and then level the plane.
3) Overcontrolling. Most new pilots try to fly like they are playing a video game. Most likely , you will never need full stick move­ment for any correction. T ypically , you will need very little down elevator as well. Re­member to move the stick in only small amounts at a time. The radio control system you are using is proportional meaning the amount you move the stick is in direct pro­portion to the amount the control surface moves. Full deflection of the control surfaces is typically reserved for correcting a major mistake or trying an aerobatic maneuver.
Planning the first flight
After reading through the maneuvers, you need to plan your first flight. For your first flight, pick a day that is clear and not windy . T oo much wind will complicate your first flight. T ake the time to envision the flight path. The flight will, of course, begin with take off and climb-out. Once a safe altitude has been reached, make a turn down wind and continue to climb. Level off at about 100 feet of altitude. Try to perform a basic figure 8 pattern. Learn to make small corrections to keep your plane pointed in the direction you want it to fly . After 3 or 4 minutes, begin your descent to land. Try to turn into the wing to land. If you're first landing gets the plane down in one piece and is located somewhere on the flying field, that is pretty good!
W e hope this information will help you make those first few flights successful.
Happy Landings!
2) Radical Turns. Keeping the wings level
or making standard turns are big steps in pre-
venting the plane from getting gout of control.
26
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T elling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. W e would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our addr ess faces out.
1.) Kit: Blue Max (#232500)
2.) Where did you learn about this kit?
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If you checked any of the boxes above, please list the parts below: __________________________________ __________________________________
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8.) What did you like most about this kit?
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o Yes o No If no, please explain. _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________
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by other manufacturers?
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27
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