Please take time to read this manual and pay particular attention to the safety rules we’ve provided for
your protection. Don’t forget to send in your owner’s registration card. If you have any questions
about your tool please call:
adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on.
KKEEEEPP WWOORRKK AARREEAA CCLLEEAANN.
DDOONN’’TT UUSSEE IINN DDAANNGGEERROOUUSS EENNVVIIRROONNMMEENNTT.
expose them to rain. Keep work area well lighted.
KKEEEEPP CCHHIILLDDRREENN AAWWAAYY.
MMAAKKEE WWOORRKKSSHHOOPP KKIIDD PPRROOOOF
DDOONN’’TT FFOORRCCEE TTOOOOLL.
UUSSEE RRIIGGHHTT TTOOOOLL..
WWEEAARR PPRROOPPEERR AAPPPPAARREELL..
to get caught in moving parts. Nonslip footwear is recommended. Wear protective hair covering
to contain long hair.
AALLWWAAYYSS WWEEAARR SSAAFFEETTYY GGLLAASSSSEESS.
Everyday eyeglasses have only impact resistant lenses. They are NOT safety glasses.
SSEECCUURREE WWOORRKK..
and it frees both hands to operate tool.
should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended
function—check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts,
mounting and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is
damaged should be properly repaired or replaced.
NNEEVVEERR LLEEAAVVEE TTOOOOLL RRUUNNNNIINNGG UUNNAATTTTEENNDDEEDD.. TTUURRNN PPOOWWEERR OOFFFF.
comes to a complete stop.
ALWAYS TIGHTEN ADJUSTMENT KNOBS BEFORE USE. KEEP HANDS 6" FROM PATH OF SAW
BLADE. NEVER PERFORM ANY OPERATION FREEHAND. NEVER CROSS ARMS IN FRONT OF SAW
BLADE. THINK! YOU CAN PREVENT ACCIDENTS.
DO NOT OPERATE SAW WITHOUT GUARDS IN PLACE. NEVER REACH IN BACK OF SAW BLADE.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION. SHUT OFF POWER AND WAIT FOR BLADE TO STOP BEFORE
SERVICING, ADJUSTING TOOL, OR MOVING HANDS.
Be sure your power supply agrees with the nameplate marking.
120 volts, AC/DC means that your saw will operate on alternating
or direct current. A voltage decrease of 10 percent or more willcause a loss of power and overheating. All B&D tools are factory
A
A
tested. If this tool does not operate, check the power supply.
Grounding
In the event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a
path of least resistance for electric current to reduce the risk of
electric shock. This tool is equipped with an electric cord having
an equipment-grounding conductor and a grounding plug. The
plug must be plugged into a matching outlet that is properly
installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes and
ordinances. Do not modify the plug provided. If it will not fit the
outlet, have the proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.
This tool is intended for use on a circuit that has an outlet like the
one illustrated in sketch A. The tool has a grounding plug that
looks like the plug illustrated in sketch A. A temporary adapter,
which looks like the adapter illustrated in sketches B and C, may
be used to connect this plug to a 2-pole receptacle as shown in
2
B
B
C
C
.
E
GROUNDED
OUTLET BOX
GROUNDING
PRONG IS
LONGEST OF
3 PRONGS
GROUNDING
MEANS
ADAPTER
Page 5
sketch B if a properly grounded outlet is not available. The temporary adapter should be used only
until a properly grounded outlet can be installed by a qualified electrician. The green-colored rigid ear,
lug, and the like, extending from the adapter must be connected to a permanent ground such as a
properly grounded outlet box.
ADAPTER SHOWN IN FIGURES B & C IS NOT FOR USE IN CANADA.
Extension Cords
Tools that have 3 wire cords requiring grounding must only be used with extension cords that have 3prong grounding type plugs and 3-pole receptacles. Only round jacketed extension cords should be
used, and we recommend that they be listed by Underwriters Laboratories (U.L.) (C.S.A. in Canada). If
the extension will be used outside, the cord must be suitable for outdoor use. The letters “WA” on the
cord jacket indicate that it is suitable for outdoor use. Any cord marked as outdoor can also be used
for indoor work.
An extension cord must have adequate wire size (AWG or American Wire Gauge) for safety, and to
prevent loss of power and overheating. The smaller the gauge number of the wire, the greater the
capacity of the cable, that is 16 gauge has more capacity than 18 gauge. When using more than one
extension to make up the total length, be sure each individual extension contains at least the minimum wire size. To determine the minimum wire size required, refer to the following chart:
112200 VVOOLLTT TTOOOOLLS
Cord Length (feet) 255075100
Guage:16141210
Before using an extension cord, inspect it for loose or exposed wires, damaged insulation, and
defective fittings. Make any needed repairs or replace the cord if necessary. B&D has extension
cords available that are U.L. (C.S.A. in Canada) listed for outdoor use.
S
: CHART FOR MINIMUM WIRE SIZE (AWG) OF EXTENSION CORDS
Unpacking Your Saw
Check the contents of your miter saw carton to make sure that you have received all parts. In addition
to this instruction manual, the carton should contain: one 3680 miter saw, one carbide saw blade
and one blade wrench in wrench pocket.
Familiarization
Your miter saw is fully assembled in the carton. Open the box and lift the saw out by the convenient
carrying handle, as shown in Figure 1. Place the saw on a smooth, flat surface such as a workbench or
strong table. Examine Figures on inside front cover of this manual to become familiar with the saw
and its various parts. The following section on adjustments will refer to these terms and you must know what
the parts are.
Press down lightly on the operating handle and pull out
the lock down pin, as shown in Figure 2. Gently release
the downward pressure and allow the arm to rise to its
full height. Use the lock down pin when carrying the saw
from one place to another. Always use the carrying handle or the hand indentations to transport the saw.
FFiigguurree 1
1
ADJUSTMENT AND SET UP
Specifications
CCaappaacciittyy ooff ccuut
48˚ miter left and right0˚ miter
48˚ bevel left: 3˚ rightMax. Height 3.9"Result Width 5.9"
2000 Watts out 13 Amp Motor
Cut Helical Gears with Ball Bearings
Carbide Blade, 4000 RPM
Automatic Electric Brake
Bench Mounting
Holes are provided in all four feet to facilitate bench mounting. (Two different sized holes are provided
to accommodate different sizes of screws. Use either hole, it is not necessary to use both.) Always
mount your saw firmly to prevent movement. To enhance the tool’s portability, it can be mounted to a
piece of 1/2” or thicker plywood which can then be clamped to your work support or moved to other
job sites and reclamped.
NNOOTTEE:
don’t protrude from the bottom of the wood. The plywood must sit flush on the work support. When
clamping the saw to any work surface, clamp only on the clamping bosses where the mounting screw
holes are located. Clamping at any other point will surely interfere with the proper operation of the
saw.
CCAAUUTTIIOONN::
wise uneven. If the saw rocks on the surface, place a thin piece of material under one saw foot until
the saw sits firmly on the mounting surface.
FFiigguurree 2
LOCK DOWN
PIN
3
t
Max. Width 7.9"Result Height 2.5"
:
If you elect to mount your saw to a piece of plywood, make sure that the mounting screws
To prevent binding and inaccuracy, be sure the mounting surface is not warped or other-
2
GUARD BRACKET
SCREW
FFiigguurree 3
3
Page 6
Installing the Blade
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
DO NOT CUT FERROUS METAL (THAT WITH AN IRON OR STEEL CONTENT) OR MASONRY WITH
THIS MITER SAW.
1. With the saw arm in the upper position, raise the lower guard as far as possible.
2. Loosen (but do not remove) the guard bracket screw, shown in Figure 3 until the guard bracket can
be raised enough to permit access to the blade screw.
3. Hold the lower guard up and depress the spindle lock button with one hand and use the supplied
NNOOTTE
E
blade wrench in the other hand to loosen (clockwise) the left hand threaded blade screw.
use the spindle lock, depress the button as shown and rotate the spindle by hand until you feel the
lock engage. Continue to hold the lock button in to keep the spindle from turning.
4. Install the saw blade making sure that the teeth at the bottom edge of the blade are pointing toward
the back of the saw (away from the operator).
5. Replace the outer blade washer and tighten the blade screw (counterclockwise) while holding the
lower guard up and the spindle lock engaged with your other hand.
NEVER DEPRESS THE SPINDLE LOCK BUTTON WHILE THE BLADE IS ROTATING.
AFTER INSTALLING THE SAW BLADE, REPOSITION GUARD BRACKET MAKING SURE IT IS FULLY
SEATED ON GUARD SCREW. FIRMLY TIGHTEN SCREW. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL CAUSE SERIOUS
DAMAGE TO THE SAW.
: To
Rear Lower Guard Adjustment
Check the rear lower guard to ensure that it is located such that the saw blade is in the center and
equidistant from each side, as shown in Figures 4 & 5. Adjust as necessary by loosening the two
screws and moving the guard. Firmly tighten both screws. Never remove this guard.
Cutting the Kerf
In order to adjust and use your miter saw, you must cut a slot through the kerf plate to allow for blade
clearance. To cut the kerf plate:
1. Set the saw at 0˚ miter.
2. Place a piece of scrap wood on the kerf plate at least 1"x6"x12".
3. Turn the saw on and allow the blade to reach full speed.
4. Pull the saw arm down as far as it will go and CUT SLOWLY THROUGH THE SCRAP WOOD AND
THE PLASTIC KERF PLATE.
5. Turn the saw off and allow the blade to stop before raising the saw arm.
6. Loosen and move the left side of the fence as far as it will go to the left.
7. Now adjust the bevel angle to 45˚.
8. Once again, turn on the saw and allow the blade to reach full speed.
9. Pull the arm down and cut slowly through the wood and kerf plate again. (This procedure will
widen the kerf plate cut so that the blade will pass through it at any angle from 0˚ to 45˚).
Be sure to adjust the left side of the fence so that it’s as close to the saw blade as possible without
interfering with arm up & down movement. Tighten the fence in position using both knobs. Don’t use
without kerf plate or when kerf slot is wider than 3/8”.
Transporting the Saw
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
In order to conveniently carry the miter saw from place to place, a carrying handle has been included
on the top of the saw arm. To transport the saw, lower the arm and depress the lock down pin shown
in Figure 2.
NNOOTTEE:
:
The saw arm cannot be fully lowered if the tool has a blade installed unless the kerf plate has
been cut. If you wish to transport the saw before cutting the kerf plate, remove the saw blade.
Your miter saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the factory at the time of manufacture. If
readjustment due to shipping and handling or any other reason is required, follow the steps below to
adjust your saw. Once made, these adjustments should remain accurate. Take a little time now to follow these directions carefully to attain the accuracy of which your saw is capable.
MMiitteerr SSccaallee AAddjjuussttmmeennt
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
1. Place a square against the saw’s fence and blade, as shown in Figure 6. (Do not touch the tips of
the blade teeth with the square. To do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.)
2. Loosen the miter clamp knob (Figure 7) and swing the miter arm until the miter latch locks it at the
0 miter position. Do not tighten the clamp knob.
3. If the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen the three screws that hold the
miter scale to the base (Figure 7) and move the scale/miter arm assembly left or right until the
blade is perpendicular to the fence, as measured with the square.
4. Retighten the three screws. Pay no attention to the reading of the miter pointer at this time.
FFiigguurree 4
4
OUTER CLAMP
WASHER
BLADE
SCREW
DISTANCES
FROM BLADE
MUST BE EQUAL
4
t
SAW BLADE
INNER CLAMP
WASHER
REAR LOWER
GUARD
!
REAR LOWER
GUARD
FFiigguurree 5
5
Page 7
45
4
5
4
0
5
0
3
5
55
3
0
6
0
2
5
6
5
2
0
7
0
15
7
5
4
5
4
5
4
0
50
3
5
5
5
30
6
0
1
1
2
1
1
2
10
5
22.5
22.5
80
85
50
45
70
25
65
55
40
45
0
FFiigguurree 6
6
FFiigguurree 7
7
2. Adjust the stop screw up or down as necessary until the pointer indicates 45˚ with the bevel arm
resting against the left side bevel stop screw.
3. Hold the screw stationary while you firmly tighten the lock nut. DO NOT ADUST THE BEVEL
POINTER.
To achieve 3˚ right bevel or 48˚ left bevel, the top screws must be adjusted to allow the bevel arm to
move as necessary. Re-adjust the bevel stops when the cuts are finished.
MITER
SCALE
FFeennccee AAddjjuussttmmeennt
t
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
ADJUSTMENT
SCREW
MITER
LATCH
MITER CLAMP
So that the saw can bevel to a full 48˚ left, the left side of the fence can be adjusted to the left to provide clearance. To adjust the fence:
1. Loosen the 2 plastic knobs shown in Figure 11 and slide the fence to the left.
2. Make a dry run with the saw turned off and check for clearance.
MMiitteerr PPooiinntteerr AAddjjuussttmmeennt
t
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
1. Loosen the miter clamp knob and squeeze the miter latch to
move the miter arm to the 0 position, as shown in Figure 7.
2. With the miter clamp knob loose, allow the miter latch to snap
3. Adjust the fence to be as close to the blade as practical to provide maximum work piece support,
without interfering with arm up & down movement.
4. Tighten both knobs securely.
5. When the bevel operations are complete, don’t forget to relocate the fence to the right.
NNOOTTEE::
The guide groove - Figure 12, of the left side fence can become clogged with sawdust. If you
notice that it is becoming clogged, use a stick or some low pressure air to clear the guide groove.
into place as you rotate the miter arm pass 0.
3. Observe the pointer and miter scale through the viewing
opening shown in Figure 8. If the pointer does not indicate
exactly 0, use a flat bladed screwdriver to gently pry it left or
right as required.
The blade guard on your saw has been designed to automatically raise when the arm is brought down
8
and to lower over the blade when the arm is raised.
y
The guard can be raised by hand when installing or removing saw blades or for inspection of the saw.
BBeevveell SSttoopp AAddjjuussttmmeennt
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
1. Lower the saw arm so that the blade just slightly goes through the kerf plate.
2. Place a square against the table and the blade, as shown in Figure 9.
any blade teeth with the square; to do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.
3. Loosen the bevel clamp knob so that you can move the bevel arm.
4. Move the bevel arm as necessary so that the blade is at 0˚ bevel to the table.
5. If the bevel arm needs adjustment, loosen the lock nut on the right side bevel stop as shown in
t
NEVER RAISE THE BLADE GUARD MANUALLY UNLESS THE SAW IS TURNED OFF.
NNOOTTEE:
:
Certain special cuts will require that you manually raise the guard. (See page 9- Cutting Base
Molding up to 3 7/8" High Vertically Against the Fence.)
NNOOTTEE:
:
Do not touch the tip of
The front section of the guard is louvered for visibility while cutting. Although the louvers dramatically reduce flying debris, they are openings in the guard and safety glasses should be worn at all times
when viewing through the louvers.
FFiigguurree 9
9
FFiigguurree 110
0
Figure 10, and adjust the stop screw as necessary.
6. Hold the stop screw in place and tighten the lock nut.
BEVEL STOP
7. If the bevel pointer does not indicate 0, loosen the screw that holds it in place and move the pointer as necessary.
SSuuggggeessttiioonn::
The bevel pointer is quite thick so for accuracy’s sake, set the point
-
STOP SCREW
er so that its top edge aligns with 0. This way all reading will be on the top edge of the pointer.
8. Loosen the left side fence clamping knobs, as shown in Figure 11 and slide the left side fence as
far as it will go to the left.
9. Move the bevel arm to the left to the 45˚ setting.
If the bevel pointer does not indicate exactly 45˚, the bevel arm is out of adjustment. To adjust the arm:
1. Loosen the lock nut on the left side bevel stop screw as shown in Figure 11.
BEVEL CLAMP
KNOB
BEVEL POINTER
SCREW
LOCK NUT
5
Page 8
TOOL OPERATION
AL
W
AYS
AD
J
U
ST
F
E
N
CE
PR
O
PE
R
L
Y
BE
F
O
R
E
U
SE
D
A
N
G
ER
K
E
E
P
A
W
A
Y
F
R
O
M
B
L
A
D
E
D
A
N
G
E
R
K
EEP
A
W
A
Y
F
R
O
M
B
L
A
D
E
LEFT SIDE
GUIDE GROOVE
BEVEL STOP
SCREW
LEFT SIDE
FENCE
CLAMPING
KNOBS
FFiigguurree 111
1
FFiigguurree 112
2
Electric Brake
Your saw is equipped with an electric blade brake which stops the saw blade within 5 seconds of trigger release. This is automatic and requires no adjustment.
Occasionally, under certain conditions, the brake will not function properly and won’t stop the saw in
the 5 seconds discussed above. If this condition persists, turn the saw on and off four or five times. If
the brake still does not stop the blade in about 5 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace
the brushes as described on page 12 and try the saw again. If this condition occurs, have the tool serviced at a B&D authorized service center.
Plug the saw into any 120 volt 60 Hz power source.
Be sure the cord will not interfere with your work.
HOLE FOR PAD LOCK
Switch
To turn the saw ON, depress the trigger switch- Figure 13.
To turn the tool OFF, release the switch. There is no provision for locking the switch ON, but a hole is provided in
the trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the saw OFF.
If your saw will not start, check the following:
Make sure tool is plugged in.
Replace blown fuses or reset circuit breakers if needed.
Have damaged cords replaced.
TRIGGER
SWITCH
Have worn out brushes replaced.
FFiigguurree 113
3
Cutting with your saw
NNOOTTEE:
:
Although this saw will cut wood and many non-ferrous materials, we will limit our discussion
to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials.
((IIRROONN AANNDD SSTTEEEELL)) MMAATTEERRIIAALLSS OORR MMAASSOONNRRYY WWIITTHH TTHHIISS SSAAWW..
Do not use any abrasive blades.
DDOO NNOOTT CCUUTT FFEERRRROOUUS
Crosscuts
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the
miter arm at the 0˚ position. Set the miter arm at 0, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the
fence. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch shown in Figure 13.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly cut through
the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than 0˚. This angle is often 45˚ for
making corners, but can be set anywhere from 0˚ to 48˚ left or right. After selecting the desired miter
angle, be sure to tighten the miter clamp knob. Make the cut as described above.
S
Bevel Cuts
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel,
loosen the bevel clamp knob and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary to move the left
side of the fence to allow clearance as you did under “Bevel Stop Adjustment”. Once the desired bevel
angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 3˚ right to 45˚ left and can be cut with the miter arm set between 0˚ and
45˚ right or left.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type,
blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth or greater
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
6
Page 9
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade
AL
W
AYS
AD
J
U
ST
F
E
N
CE
PR
O
PE
R
L
Y
BE
F
O
R
E
U
SE
D
ANG
E
R
K
E
E
P
A
W
A
Y
F
R
O
M
B
L
A
D
E
DANG
E
R
K
E
E
P
A
W
A
Y
F
R
O
M
B
L
A
D
E
A
L
WA
Y
S
A
D
J
U
S
T
F
E
N
C
E
P
R
O
P
E
R
L
Y
B
E
F
O
R
E
U
S
E
D
A
N
G
E
R
K
E
E
P
A
W
A
Y
F
R
O
M
B
L
A
D
E
D
A
N
G
E
R
K
E
E
P
A
W
A
Y
F
R
O
M
B
L
A
D
E
come to a full stop before raising the arm. If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the work
piece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended accessories for your saw and select
the blade that best fits your needs.
Body and Hand Position (See Figure 14)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting easier,
more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer than 6" from the
blade. Hold the work piece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until
the trigger has been released and the blade has completely stopped.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE
PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS AS SHOWN BELOW.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm left and
right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when
following a pencil line.
Clamping the Work Piece
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
ALWAYS CLAMP WOOD TO THE SAW IF POSSIBLE AND ALWAYS CLAMP IF SIZE OF WORK PIECE
REQUIRES YOUR HAND TO BE WITHIN 6" OF BLADE. You can clamp to either side of the saw blade
and remember to position your clamp against a solid, flat surface of the fence. For best results use the
36802 clamp made for use with your saw. Available from your dealer at extra cost.
PROPER CUT
FFiigguurree 114
4
IMPROPER CUT
When clamping small pieces requiring your hand to be dangerously close (within 6”) to the saw blade,
MMUUSST
T
a clamp
be used to prevent loss of control. The left fence may be adjusted to aid clamping.
Support for Long Pieces
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
For best results, use the 36800 Extension Work Support to extend the table width of your saw.
Available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long work pieces using any convenient means such
as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes, and other four sided
projects
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects
using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure 15. Sketch A shows a
joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45˚ each to produce
a 90˚ corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the 0 position and the bevel adjustment was
locked at 45˚. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge
against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against
the fence.
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames
Sketch B in Figure 15 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45˚ to miter the 2 boards to form
a 90˚ corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to 0 and the miter arm to 45˚. Once
again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The 2 sketches in Figure 15 are for four side objects only. As the number of sides changes, so do the
miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes. (The chart
assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180˚ divided by the number of sides equals the miter or bevel angle.
Cutting Compound Miters
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the
type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure 16.
FFiigguurree 115
5
NNOO.. SSIIDDEES
-- EEXXAAMMPPLLEESS -
S
445°
5
630°
725.7°
A
A
822.5°
920°
B
B
1018°
7
-
MMIITTEERR AANNGGLLE
°
36
E
Page 10
20
25
30
22.5
31.62
50
45
65
60
70
25
65
55
40
45
45
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
1
2
22.5
50
45
70
25
65
55
40
45
0
FFiigguurree 116
0
5
15
20
25
30
10
15
20
25
30
35
22.5
31.62
22.5
31.62
75
70
65
60
75
70
65
60
55
85
90
80
1
1
2
1
1
2
FFiigguurree VV1
6
FFiigguurree 117
7
KERF PLATE
1
FFiigguurree VV2
2
ANGLE “A”
NNOOTTEE:
:
If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock
knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or
miter.
The chart shown on page 10 will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for com-
CENTER MARK ON VERNIER SCALE ALIGNS
WITH DESIRED WHOLE ANGLE ON MITER
SCALE (24˚ RIGHT MITER)
MITER ARM
1/4˚ VERNIER MARK ALIGNS WITH CLOSEST
WHOLE DEGREE MARK ON MITER SCALE
(24˚ 1/4˚ RIGHT MITER).
mon compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (Figure 17) of your project
and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight down
to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct miter angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together
until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (Angle A, Table 1), use the upper right arc.
Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get miter angle setting
on saw (23°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel angle
setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify settings on saw.
Vernier Scale
Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added precision. The vernier scale allows you to accurately set miter angles to the nearest 1/4˚ (15 minutes). To use the vernier scale follow the steps listed
below.
(As an example, let’s assume that the angle you want to miter is 24 1/4˚ right).
1. Turn off miter saw.
2. Set the miter angle to the nearest whole degree desired by aligning the center mark in the vernier
scale, shown in Figure V1, with the whole degree number etched in the miter scale. Examine Figure
V1 closely; the setting shown is 24˚ right miter.
Dual Range Miter Scale
The miter scale has two ranges of numbers for convenience, as shown in Figure 18. One scale indicates 0˚
when the blade is square to the fence. At this position the
other scale reads 90˚.
The 0˚ scale (larger numbers closer to the front edge) is
used when calculating angles. To calculate the proper
miter angle, divide 180˚ by the number of sides of the box
or frame. Refer to the chart on page 7 for some examples.
The 90˚ scale (smaller numbers behind the 0˚ scale) is
used when a corner of your box or frame is measured
with a protractor.
FFoorr eexxaammpplle
ner of an 8 sided box, the protractor will read 135˚. To
determine the proper miter setting, divide the measured
angle by two. The proper miter setting in this example is
67-1/2˚. Set this angle on the 90˚ scale. This is most useful when a corner is at an odd angle.
e
: if you measure the cor-
MITER
SCALE
FFiigguurree 118
8
3. To set the additional 1/4˚, squeeze the miter arm lock and carefully move the arm to the RIGHT
until the 1/4˚ vernier mark aligns with the CLOSEST degree mark on the miter scale. In our example, the closest degree mark on the miter scale happens to be 25˚. Figure V2 shows a setting of 241/4˚ right miter.
For settings that require partial degrees (1/4˚, 1/2˚, 3/4˚) align the desired vernier mark with the CLOSEST degree mark on the miter scale, as described below (The plastic vernier plate is inscribed with
marks for 1/4˚, 1/2˚, 3/4˚ and 1˚. Only the 1/2˚ and the 1˚ are numerically labeled.)
When Mitering to the Right
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier
mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the miter angle when mitering
to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter
scale to the left.
When Mitering to the Left
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier
mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the miter angle when mitering to
the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to
the right.
8
Page 11
Cutting Base Molding
A
LWA
Y
S
A
DJ
US
TFENC
E
P
ROP
ERLY
B
EFOREUS
E
ALWA
Y
S
A
DJUSTFENC
E
PROP
ERLY
B
EFOREUS
E
ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
Straight 90˚ cuts –Position the wood against the fence and clamp it in place as shown in Figure 19.
Turn on the saw, allow the blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
Cutting base molding up to 3-7/8” high vertically against the fence
Position molding as shown in Figure 20. All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence
and bottom of the molding against the table.
IINNSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEER
Left side:1. Miter left 45°
Right side:1. Miter Right 45°
OOUUTTSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEER
Left side:1. Miter right at 45°
Right side:1. Miter left at 45°
Material up to 3.9" (3-7/8)" can be cut as described above. For wider boards [up to 5.5" (5-1/2")] several minor concessions must be made.
When cutting a board between 3.9" (3-7/8") and 5.5" (5-1/2") in width the guard will hang up on the
work piece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll the
guard up just enough to clear the work piece, as shown in Figure 23. Once you have cleared the work
piece, you can release the guard and it will continue to open as the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base molding wider than 3.9" (3-7/8") standing vertically against
the fence as in Figure 20, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1 inch from the end of the
board. Trying to cut more than an inch will cause the saw’s gear case to interfere with the work piece.
If you want to cut base molding between 3-7/8" and 5-1/2" wide vertically see the following the directions.
FFiigguurree 119
R
:
2. Save left side of cut
2. Save right side of cut
R
:
2. Save left side of cut
2. Save right side of cut
9
FFiigguurree 220
Cutting 3-7/8"– 5-1/2" base molding vertically against
FFiigguurree 221
1
the fence
Position molding as shown in Figure 20. All cuts made with the
back of the molding against the fence.
IINNSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEERR:
:
Left side:1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the table of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Right side: 1. Position molding with top of the molding resting
on the table of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
OOUUTTSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEER
R
:
Left side:1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the table of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
FFiigguurree 222
NNOOTTEE:
:
If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" from the
2
end of the molding: cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1" longer
than your final length then make the miter cut as described
above.
Right side: 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding
against the table of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save the right side of cut
A third method of making the cut necessary for sketch A (Figure
15) is to make a 0˚ miter, 45˚ bevel cut. Your saw can cut a bevel
7 7/8” wide.
Cutting Base Molding Laying Flat and
Using the Bevel Feature
All cuts made with the saw set at 45˚ and 0 miter.
All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw as
0
shown in Figures 21 and 22.
IINNSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEERR:
:
Left side:1. Position molding with top of molding against the
fence
2. Save left side of cut
Right side: 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding
against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
OOUUTTSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEERR:
Left side:
:
1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Right side: 1. Position molding with top of the molding against
the fence
2. Save right side of cut
9
FFiigguurree 223
3
Page 12
051015202530354045
0
51015202530354045
5
10
15
20
25
30
3
5
40
45
5
10
15
20
25
30
3
5
40
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
5
5
60
65
70
75
80
85
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
5
5
60
65
7
0
75
80
85
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
5
5
6
0
65
70
7
5
80
85
FFiigguurree 224
4
BOTTOM SIDE OF
MOLDING
FENCE
CROWN MOLDING FLAT ON TABLE
AND AGAINST FENCE
TABLE
CROWN MOLDING FENCE AND
TABLE
Cutting Crown Molding
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In order to fit
properly, crown molding must be mitered with extreme accuracy. The two flat surfaces on a given
piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90˚. Most, but not all,
crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52˚ and a bottom
rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38˚.
Your miter saw has special preset miter latch points at 31.62˚ left and right for cutting crown molding
at the proper angle. There is also a mark on the bevel scale at 33.85˚.
The chart on the next page gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The numbers for the
miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on your saw.) Since most
rooms do not have angles of precisely 90˚, you will have to fine tune your settings anyway.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
Place the molding on the table at an angle between the fence and the saw table, as shown in Figure
25.Use of the crown molding fence accessory is highly recommended because of its degree of
accuracy and convenience. The crown molding fence accessory is available at extra cost from your
local dealer or B&D service center.
The advantage to cutting crown molding using this method is that no bevel cut is required. Minute
changes in the miter angle can be made without affecting the bevel angle. This way, when corners
other than 90˚ are encountered, the saw can be quickly and easily adjusted for them.
Use the 36807 crown molding fence accessory to maintain the angle at which the molding will be
on the wall. Place the bottom side (the side that will be against the wall) against the miter saw fence.
1. Angle the molding so the bottom of the molding (part which goes against the wall when
installed) is against the fence and the top of the molding is resting on the base of the saw, as
shown in Figure 25.
2. The angled “flats” on the back of the molding must rest squarely on the fence and base of the saw.
1. Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table (See Figure 24).
2. The settings below are for all standard U.S. crown molding with 52˚ and 38˚ angles.
BBeevveell SSeettttiinng
g
TTyyppee ooff CCuut
t
LEFT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
33.85°1. Top of molding against fence
2. Miter table set right 31.62°
3. Save left end of cut
RIGHT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
33.85°1. Bottom of molding against fence
E
33.85
°1. Bottom of molding against fence
2. Miter table set left 31.62°
3. Save left end of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
SIDE,
LEFT
2. Miter table set left 31.62
°
3. Save right end of cut
RIGHT SIDE, OUTSIDE CORNER:
33.85°1. Top of molding against fence
2. Miter table set right 31.62°
3. Save right end of cut
When setting bevel and
miter angles for all compound miters, remember
that the angles presented
for crown moldings are
very precise and difficult to
set exactly. Since they can
easily shift slightly and very
few rooms have exactly
square corners, all settings
should be tested on scrap
molding.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP
MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY
IMPORTANT!
10
Page 13
IINNSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEERR:
Left side: 1.Miter right at 45°
Right side: 1.Miter left at 45°
OOUUTTSSIIDDEE CCOORRNNEERR:
Left side: 1.Miter left at 45°
Right side: 1.Miter right at 45°
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS TO CHECK FOR CLEARANCE AND CORRECTNESS OF CUTS.
SSPPEECCIIAALL CCUUTTS
NEVER MAKE ANY CUT WITHOUT FIRMLY CLAMPING THE MATERIAL.
AAlluummiinnuumm CCuuttttiinngg:
Aluminum extrusions such as those used when making aluminum screens and storm windows can
easily be cut with your saw. Position the material so that you will be cutting the thinnest cross section,
as shown in Figure 26. Figure 27 illustrates the wrong way to cut these extrusions.
Use a wax lubricant when cutting aluminum such as Johnson’s Stick Wax No. 140. Apply the stick
wax directly to the saw blade before cutting. Never apply stick wax to a moving blade.
The wax, available at most hardware stores and industrial mill supply houses, provides proper lubrication and keeps chips from adhering to the blade.
BBoowweedd MMaatteerriiaall:
When cutting bowed material always position it as shown in Figure 28 and never like that shown in
Figure 29. Positioning the material incorrectly will cause it to pinch the blade near the completion of
the cut.
CCuuttttiinngg PPllaassttiicc PPiippe
Plastic pipe can be easily cut with your saw. It should be cut just like wood and
CCuuttttiinngg LLaarrggee MMaatteerriiaal
Occasionally you will encounter a piece of wood a little too large to fit beneath the blade guard. A little
extra height can be gained by rolling the guard up out of the way, as shown in Figure 23. Avoid doing
this as much as possible, but if need be, the saw will operate properly and make the bigger cut.
NEVER TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE HOLD THE GUARD OPEN WHEN OPERATING THIS SAW.
Replace dull blades
Check to see if blade is mounted backwards.
Remove blade and clean with turpentine and coarse steel wool or household oven cleaner.
Check to make sure the blade you are using is appropriate for work being done.
Saw may not be mounted securely to stand on work bench.
Stand may be on uneven floor.
Blade may be damaged.
:
:
:
FFiigguurree 226
FENCE
6
RRIIGGHHT
FFiigguurree 227
7
BLADE
FENCE
T
WWRROONNG
BLADE
G
11
Page 14
MAINTENANCE
ACCESSORIES
1. All bearings are sealed ball bearings. They are lubricated for life and need no further maintenance.
2. Periodically clean all dust and wood chips from around AND UNDER the base and the rotary
table. Even though slots are provided to allow debris to pass through, some dust will accumulate.
3. The brushes are designed to give you several years of use. If they ever need replacement follow
the instructions below or return the tool to the nearest service center for repair. Service center
locations are packed with your tool.
Brushes
Inspect carbon brushes regularly:
1. TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
2. Remove the brush inspection cap.
3. Withdraw the brush assembly.
4. Keep brushes clean and sliding freely in their guides. Always replace a used brush in the same orientation in the holder as it was prior to its removal. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped
into their sides, and if the brush is worn down to the line closest to the spring, they must be
replaced. (If either brush is worn out, replace both.) Use only identical B&D brushes. Use of the
correct grade of brush is essential for proper operation of electric brake. New brush assemblies are
available at B&D service centers.
5. The tool should be allowed to “run in” (run at no load) for 10 minutes before use to seat new
brushes. The electric brake may be erratic in operation until the brushes are properly seated (worn
in).
NNOOTTEE::
While “running in” DO NOT TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE LOCK THE TRIGGER SWITCH ON.
HOLD BY HAND ONLY.
Recommended accessories for use with your tool are available at extra cost from your distributor or
local service center. A complete listing of service centers is included with your tool.
CCAAUUTTIIOONN::
If you need any assistance in locating any accessory call 1-800-9-BD TOOL (1-800-923-8665) or contact Black & Decker (U.S.) Inc., Consumer Service Department, 626 Hanover Pike, P.O. Box 618,
Hampstead, MD 21074.
Used to support long overhanging work pieces, the work support is user assembled and stores conveniently under the saw table. Your saw table is designed to accept two work supports; one on each
side.
bbeettwweeeenn 88::0000aamm aanndd 88::0000ppmm EETT,, sseevveenn ddaayyss aa wweeeekk:
:
e
1-800-9-BD TOOL
(1-800-923-8665)
P
IMPORTANT!
To assure product safety and reliability, particularly for Double Insulated tools, repairs, maintenance
and adjustment (excluding maintenance described in this manual) should be performed by B&D service centers or authorized service centers, using identical B&D replacement parts.
One Year Service/Safety Check
All B&D tools for Industry and Construction are covered under a service/safety check program where
B&D will inspect your tool for safety and provide necessary maintenance or repairs, including normal
wear and tear parts, for one year, FREE OF CHARGE.
Full Warranty
All B&D tools for Industry and Construction are warranted to be free of any defects in materials or
workmanship. Upon thorough examination of tool, B&D will repair or replace, at our option, any product that is determined to be defective.
3366880022-- CCLLAAMMP
Conditions
The service/safety check and the warranty do not apply to: repairs made or attempted by anyone other
than an authorized B&D service location; misuse, abuse, neglect, improper application of the tool;
P
3366880077-- CCRROOWWNN MMOOLLDDIINNGG FFEENNCCE
E
missing parts; or normal wear and tear (after first year of ownership). Please return the complete unit,
transportation prepaid, to any B&D factory owned or B&D authorized service center location (list provided with tool or see Yellow Pages under “Tools Electric”).
These symbols on the nameplate mean the product is
listed by Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc. and certified
by the Canadian Standards Association.
Page 16
Black & Decker (U.S.) Inc. • 701 East Joppa Road, Towson, Maryland 21286