BIC Muro M-50 Manual , Muro M-60, Muro M-80, Muro M-8.3, Venturi VI-38 User Manual

Download

Page 1

MuroTM

M-50, M-60, M-80 and M-8.3

VenturiTM

VI-38

In-Wall Speaker Systems

Page 2

CONGRATULATIONS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

What you need to do the job

Speaker system parts inventory

. . I

. . . . . . , , . . . . . . .

on selecting

B.IC

Wall-Mounted

Speakers. Like all

B.IC

speakers, they

combine advanced acoustic technology with durability and will provide years of musical enjoyment.

This

manual is designed to make your M-50, M-60, M-80, M-8.3 or VI-38 speakers as easy to install as they are to

listen to. If you’ve had any home

“do-it-

yourself ” experience, you should find

installation of your new speakers a simple job.

However, we suggest you read through

this

manual before starting out. If you

then decide that installing your

B+IC In-

Wall Speakers is a bit beyond your skills, we’ve included suggestions for locating sources of affordable outside help.

mounting template

mounting bracket

masking

Tools for installation

.......................................

Speaker wire.

............................................

Amplifier considerations

....................................

Where to put your speakers

Varioususes.............................................

Stereo imaging

..........................................

Other acoustic considerations

................................

Wall 8: ceiling surfaces

....................................

Speaker wire paths

.......................................

Painting your speakers.

.......................................

Cutting holes for the speakers

..................................

Running connecting wires

.....................................

Hooking up your speakers

At the speaker end

.......................................

6 7

At the amplifier end..

. . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Final assembly.

..........................................

short “test drive”

..........................................

A quick troubleshooting guide.

..............................

More on amplifiers and impedances

..........................

Installing

Be1.C

Muro speakers during new construction

............

B+C

Muro M-50, M-60, M-80, M-8.3 and Venturi VI-38 descriptions

and specifications.

.....................................

Outside help

............................................

grille

DRAWING 1

NOT SHOWN: packet of acoustic damping material

Page 3

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO THE JOB

SPEAKER SYSTEM

PARTS INVENTORY

Before you get involved in the actual installation process, it’s a good idea to check for possible shipping damage and

identify parts and hardware.

You should have the parts shown in

Drawing 1:

‘ho (2)

B+IC

In-wall loudspeaker

systems with attached grilles

Iho

(2) metal brackets

Eight (8) black metal screws (in their own little zip-top bag)

Another clear plastic bag with little

rectangles of a black substance

wrapped in white paper (we’ll

explain this one later!)

l’wo

(2) white cardboard mounting

templates

‘Iwo

(2) white cardboard masking

templates for painting

If anything is missing after a thorough search of the box and packing materials, contact the dealer where you bought your speakers.

Although BIG In-Wall Systems are extremely well packed to withstand the rigors of shipping, you should still inspect them closely, especially if there is any damage to the outside cartons. If

you find anything wrong, contact your

dealer or the shipper who delivered the speakers.

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION

IN EXISTING WALLS

It doesn’t take a whole workshop to install your new speakers, just a few simple tools:

A pencil

drill with a l-inch flat bit

A retractable utility knife or keyhole saw

A length of stiff wire about 3 feet long (a straightened wire coat hanger works fine)

Phillips-head screw driver which will fit the black screws included with your speakers

A pair of diagonal pliers or wire strippers

Some of the following may also be needed, depending on the application. 0 A stud finder 0

Drill bit just slightly larger than the diameter of one speaker wire

Plumb bob or small weight on a string

Insulated staples for securing speaker wire

Masking tape or foam

“double-

stick” tape

Paint and applicator for changing grille

#and

outer frame finish

0 A bubble level

SPEAKER WIRE

The amount of wire you’re going to need will of course vary with speaker placement (which we cover next). But we’re covering the subject of wire now

because it’s something you may have to go out and obtain along with whatever tools you don’t already have.

What

kind to use

We recommend using inexpensive,

multi-stranded “zip-cord” for

amplifier-

to-speaker connections. Also called lamp cord, it’s sold in pre-packed rolls and in bulk displays at hardware, lighting and home improvement stores. Zip-cord’s outside covering (insulation) can be transparent, black, brown, white, etc. Color doesn’t matter. Thickness does.

Selecting the proper gauge

Wire is measured in “gauges.” For no particularly good reason, the bigger the number, the smaller the wire. For example,

18-gauge

is thinner than

14-gauge.

The gauge of wire you need is determined by the distance between your amplifier/receiver and the speakers. Use the following chart as a guide:

Length

Minimum Gauge

Less than 10 ft.

10 to 50 ft.

Over 50 ft.

If in doubt, be safe and get a smaller

gauge (i.e. thicker wire). Using too thin

a gauge over a long distance can compro-

mise sound quality. And besides, there isn’t a vast cost difference between

gauges, anyway.

How much to buy

Basically, more than you think you

need. As we noted earlier, a discussion of

lengths is sort of premature until you’ve decided on exact placement, so you may want to skip to page 4 and read the section on “‘Where to

put your speakers.”

But if you have a rough idea of the distance from your

ampfier

to the speak-

ers, here are a few tips:

Because of the complicated paths which are often required to route wires, you’ll definitely need more than the amount derived from simple measurements.

Even if one speaker is a lot closer to the amp than the other speaker, you should use the same length of wire for both paths. This insures that both speakers will play at equal volume.

Professional installers often use the following rule of thumb:

“As

the crow flies” amp to speaker distance TIMES FIVE. That allows enough for both speaker paths plus a very healthy margin for unplanned detours. Remember the electrician’s favorite

adage: “You

can

always

cut

off extra wire, but

they

don’t stretch

worth a ah.

”

AMPLIFIER

CONSIDERATIONS

Virtually any receiver, power amplifier or integrated amplifier can be used with your

BIG

Ceiling Speakers. Although

Muro

M-50’s

are rated at 100 watts maximum input power, M-60’s at 110 watts,

M-80’s

at 120 watts,

M-8.3’s

at 120 watts,

and

V&38’s

at 125 watts, it’s OK to use a more powerful amplifier if you take some simple precautions, which we cover on page 13 (‘Taking care

of your new

B-1-C

In-wall speakers”).

A more serious consideration is whether or not you intend to power more than one set of speakers with the same amplifier or receiver. If you intend to hook speakers to both “A” and

“B”

receiver outputs and then play both sets

of speakers at the same time, you should

read the section starting on page 14 of

this manual

(“More on amplifiers

and impedances”),

to avoid potential

problems.

Page 4

I) D

EXCELLENT

WHERE TO PUT YOUR SPEAKERS

Placement can make all the difference in how your sound install. There are at least three “WHERE’S” and a “HOW” to factor into your layout;

HOW you intend to use your speakers

WHERE they’ll sound best (stereo

imaging and acoustic considerations)

WHERE it’s possible to install them (wall and ceiling surfaces)

WHERE they can be installed that

makes it easy to get wire to them

without remodeling your entire house.

VARIOUS USES

BaIX

used for background music, as a listening system or as built-in rear surround speakers in an audio/video home theater.

B.1,C In-wal.l

and how easy they are to

speaker systems

In-Wall Speakers can be

prlmar)

for stereo imaging

EXCELLENT

for stereo imaging

U’

OK for background music; not good for stereo imaglng

Asymmetrilcsl

response; more bass from right speaker

Both speakers aren’t in line wlth listener

Not recommended for either:

Too close together

n3n

‘D/

(

a,,

r---7

!!I@,

c----

DRAWING 2

B-1-C

in-wall speakers may be used

for rear surround sound channels

by placing them (1) behind, (2) on

each side of the viewing position or

(3) in the ceiling just behind the

viewers.

make excellent, unobtrusive front channel home video theater speakers (4).

8.1.C

In-wall speakers also

DRAWING 3

Background music

If you

lust

want low-volume background music to placement for best acoustics and imaging is not particularly critical. You can pretty well ignore all our diagrams and tips on imaging and other acoustical matters.

Just

put

your

nlent

and non-intrusive to room decor

but without grouping both speakers

too

close together speakers in living room that flows into a formal dining room, or in a kitchen and breakfast nook.

you’re going to place the speakers high up on a wall, flip the speaker upside down when tweeter IS on the bottom. This will insure better treble dispersion

5oat

through a room,

speakers where it’s

You

can even place the

adjoinmg

mountmg

rooms, such as a

it so that the

(see

Drawing 4).

conve-

Surround sound

B+C

In-Wall Speakers make excellent surround sound speakers. They can be mounted at ear level in any of the positions shown in Drawing 2 including from the ceiling.

STEREO IMAGING

If your going to be your primary listening source in a room, you need to consider some other factors to insure proper imaging. The term “stereo imaging” refers to a speaker system’s ability to project music so that it sounds like the performers are in a speakers. It’s the whole point of having a stereo instead of monophonic system.

Drawing 3 shows some possible placements as well as some situations to avoid.

B.1.C

In-Wall Speakers are

3-dimensional

space between the

Page 5

rotated

down

OTHER ACOUSTIC CONSIDERATIONS

For best fidelity, there are several other factors to keep in mind before you start actual installation.

Vertical placement

Treble frequencies are quite directional.

While the

dome tweeters

B-1-C

Muro M-50, M-60 and M-80 speakers are designed to disperse high frequencies over a wide area, they will give you

the

best sound when positioned so that they are at least at ear level, as shown in Drawing 4.

If you have M-8.3’s or VI-38’s, the tweeter can be swivelled to direct the high frequencies toward the listening position. See drawing 4A.

of course, if the speakers are being

installed in an area where listeners usually stand up (such as a kitchen or hallway), “ear level”

will

be higher on the wall than for rooms where listeners are often seated.

DRAWING 4

DRAWING 4A

Corners and reflections

When an in-wail speaker is placed close to the comer of a room, bass frequencies are emphasized. This can

be OK if both speakers are mounted near comers (while maintaining stereo imaging). But try to avoid placing just one speaker in a corner and another on a long flat wall.

Treble is emphasized when it reflects back from reflective surfaces such as large windows. Conversely, highs tend to be muffled by soft surfaces such as drapes, rugs, upholstered furniture, carpeted steps and even textured fabric wall paper.

In general, the best acoustic performance will result if both speakers face a similar type of surface and are placed in similar positions on the same type of wall.

WALL AND CEILING SURFACES

Now that we’ve covered where you

should put your speakers, let’s consider

where you CAN put them.

B+I,C

Muro

M-SO’s

require at least

2’/(

of wall depth;

M-GO’s

require at least

3’/4”;

M-80 and M-8.3’s require

351~”

;

VI-38 requires

3’/4#

of wall depth (all

measured from the outside surface of

the wall).

This means that they can be installed in

any wallboard-and-2x4 stud wall. In fact,

the dense, rigid nature of plasterboard

(or lath and plaster in older homes) acts as a superb speaker

baMe.

You can also

install B.1.C

In-wall

speak-

VI-38

Push on rim of

tweeter to rotate

M8.3

ers in stud walls covered with thick wood paneling or in wallboard/plaster ceilings.

However, avoid:

Stud

walls covered only with thin veneer paneling - the surface isn’t rigid enough and can cause annoying vibrations and buzzing. T-bar “drop ceilings with very thin fiberboard panels which can

buzz and vibrate. If you suspect

this

will happen, reinforce the’

drop-in panel with wood or particle

board. Any wall which can’t provide proper depth (clearance) for

the

back of the Muro speaker to protrude. This includes brick or

concrete walls where the

wallboard or paneling is attached

to thin furring strips. Walls where you know that there are pipes, heating ducts and ESPECIALLY AC wiring in the general vicinity. For example, if there is an outlet along the baseboard, there is often a live wire running partly up

the

wall at

Page 6

SPEAKER WIRE PATHS

The last consideration is the obstacle course that lies between the speakers’ hoped-for mounting positions and your stereo system.

Wires can be run through crawl spaces that lie above your ceiling or below the floor, through basements or second stories, or simply along the perimeter of your listening room. We cover each of these options in detail in the

“Running connecting wires” section

attention to the following areas:

l Make sure that the entire path

of this manual.

general, you should pay particular

Avoid running speaker wires close to house electrical wiring for any distance. If you have to run them parallel, make sure to space the speaker wires at least two feet from the AC line. It is, however, OK for speaker wires to cross paths with AC line or go through the same hole together with house wiring if they separate before and after.

between speakers and amplifier is clear and not obstructed by a major floor or ceiling joist or masonry wall which you won’t be able to drill through.

Remember that the other end of the wires has to come out somewhere to connect with the amplifier. Confirm ahead of time that you can drill an outlet hole easily and in an unobtrusive spot.

PAINTING YOUR

CUTTING HOLES FOR THE

If you like the designer which has been applied to your In-Wall Speakers, you can skip to Step D, next column. But if you want your speakers to completely blend in with a colored wall or accent the surface, now is the time to paint your outer frames and perforated grilles.

The speaker’s outer surfaces are primed to accept ordinary latex wall paint or aerosol spray paint. Because the surface behind the perforated grille should remain black, you will need to mask this area off before you begin painting.

01.

First the speakers’ grille must be removed, From the back of the speaker, insert a mounting screw and push on the to loosen it so you can pull it off.

Attach loops of double-stick tape to the cardboard masking cards which have been included with your speakers.

Press a masking card onto each

03.

speakers’ surface to cover the woofer and tweeter.

04.

Paint the outer speaker frame and grille separately. A roller with a short or medium nap will work much better than a brush. If you’re using spray paint, make sure that you achieve the same coverage on both grille and frame.

After the paint has thoroughly

05.

dried, remove the cardboard masking plate.

There’s no need to replace the grille at

this time since you will need access to the inner speaker surface during installation.

white

finish

Bs1.C

In-wall speakers’

mside

of the grille

maskmg

tape or

SPEAKERS

Bg1.C

to make a relatively neat hole. Actually, the hole doesn’t even have to be that neat, since the speaker’s outer frame will cover it. Just make sure you don’t make it any bigger than the template. In the following steps, you’re going to locate a section of wall between two studs, mark the outer boundaries of the hole, drill a small hole in the center to co&rm your location and then cut the main hole.

01.

02.

Wallboard is an easy surface in which

First you must determine the location of your wall studs so that

the speaker can be approximately

centered between them. There are

several ways to go about this:

l Tap on the wall and listen to

the resulting “THUMP”. When it’s deeper, you’re between studs. When it’s sharper and more sounding, you’re close to a stud.

l Use a stud-finder, a simple little

magnetic device which works by locating the lines of nails hammered into the stud.

l Identify studs by the position

of electrical outlets or switches, There’ll be a stud either directly to the left or right of an electrical fixture. This gives you a point of measurement, since studs are either 18 or 16 inches apart in newer houses, 12 inches apart on

pre-W&2

When you’re reasonably sure of where the wall stud 2x4’s are

(and are TOTALLY sure that there isn’t an electrical cable, water pipe or heating duct in that vicinity of

homes.

flat-

Page 7

wall), position

one of the card board mounting templates and draw around the inside outline

with a pencil. If you don’t trust your eye, use a level to make sure the hole will be straight.

Repeat for the other speaker position.

Drill

03.

a l-inch hole in the center of

the pencil outline which you have just drawn.

obtain a length of stiff wire such as

04. an unwound, totally un-bent coat hanger, Bend it so that the last 12 inches is at a right angle to the rest.

Insert the angled part into the

05.

l-inch hole you just drilled and

probe to left and right to confirm

that a stud is not close on either side.

there is a close stud on one side, just re-position the cardboard template a few inches in the

opposite direction and re-draw

your pencil outline, keeping the

l-inch hole within the pencil out-

line’s inner boundaries.

06.

If there are no obstructions, cut

the hole along the pencil outline. If

the surface is wallboard, simply cut it increasingly deeper with a utility knife until it gives way and then

pull

it out by grasping the cut-out

through the l-inch hole.

you’re dealing with lath and plaster or thick paneling, you need to use a different technique. Drill

l-inch holes at the comers of the pencil outline. Then use a keyhole saw or even a hacksaw blade with VERY slow strokes to saw through and remove the inner surface.

Temporarily place a

07.

B.1.C

In-wall speaker into the cut-out to insure that it fits properly. It’s OK if the hole is slightly large, since it be covered by the. speaker’s outside frame.

Actual

installation will happen later, after you’ve routed the speaker wires.

08.

Repeat steps 1 through 7 for the other speaker.

Now it’s time to drill the hole on

09. the OTHER end - at the point

where the wires from the speakers will exit to the amplifier/receiver.

l Use the same l-inch drill bit as

before.

l If you want a totally finished job,

install an outlet box against a stud and cover it with a TV cable or single outlet plate which has one hole in the middle for the wires to exit from.

wilI

RUNNING

CONNECTING

Now you know were the wires have to run. It’s time to actually route mentioned before, there are several sibilities.

1. DOWN, ACROSS & BACK

you

have a crawl space under your house or a relatively unfinished basement, your job is broken into three parts:

1) Down from the amplifier to the crawl space; 2) Across the crawl space to the wall(s) with the speakers; 3) Up the wall to the speaker.

UP & OVER. If you

overhead

crawi

space, your three steps are: 1) Up from the amplifier to the space; 2) Across the crawl space to the wall(s) with the speakers; 3) Down the wall to the speaker.

3. OVERLAND. If the speakers and amplifier are in the same room and it is carpeted, you can route the wires along the baseboard. This method results in just two

VERY

short lengths of wire being

possibly visible.

them. As

pos-

up.

have an attic or

crawi

DRAWING 5

Page 8

Use whichever method (or combination) is most applicable, but read each over before undertaking it.

DOWN, ACROSS AND BACK UP (BASEMENT OR

LOWER CRAWL SPACE)

If you have an unfinished basement or

crawl space under your home, you can

avoid having to run wires in the room. Working from underneath is sometimes trickier since there are often more pipes, ducts, electrical and cable lines already

in place.

01.:Make sure you have the following:

0 Tape measure 0 Cordless drill (or regular model with long extension cord)

with a l-INCH BIT

0 A VERY long roll of speaker

wire

0 Wire cutters - either diagonal pliers or wire strippers which include a cutting surface

0 Length of stiff wire such as coat hanger at least 3 feet long

0 Tape -any kind will do

0 It’s also convenient to have another person upstairs helping

you.

The

person’s job will be to grab the cables as you push them up

Gem

below.

02.

03.

Enter the basement or crawl space and proceed to a spot directly below where one of

the

in-wall

speakers will be. After carefully measuring to make

sure you’re in the right place, drill a hole up through the horizontal 2x4 directly below the speaker.

04~.

If you haven’t encountered in-wall

insulation (sometimes present on outside walls), have your assistant drop a plumb bob or weight string down until you can reach it. Tape the cable to it and let them pull it

UP.

04B. If you have run into insulation,

there’s another approach: Get out

your long roll of speaker cable and

tape the end to the stiff wire or bent coat hanger. Push the stiff

wire with speaker cable attached

up through one of the holes far enough that your assistant can

grasp it through the speaker cut-

out above. Have him or her pull out at least 8 feet of cable (as measured from your position downstairs).

Making sure that the end doesn’t

get pulled back down through the hole, reel out wire while moving

across the basement.&& space until you reach a location below the amplifier,

06.

07.

08.

09.

Extend at least

(TEN)_

extra

feet of cable and cut the end off the roll.

Grab your coil/roll of cable and move over to the hole that’s been drilled below the other speaker.

Again, have your assistant drop a plumb bob or weight and string down until you can reach it. Tape the cable to it and let him or her

pull

it up, extending at least 8 feet of wire up through this hole. Or use the

stiff

wire method if the

wall has insulation or obstructions

in it. Making sure the end doesn’t get

pulled back down through the hole, reel out cable until you reach the space under the amplifier.

Extend at least

10 (TEN) extra

feet of cable and cut the end off the roll. You’ve now run wires from both speakers to a point directly below where the amplifier will be.

l-inc

hol

DRAWING 6 - DOWN, ACROSS AND BACK UP

Page 9

Drill a l-inch hole through the

010. horizontal 2x4 directly below the amplifier wall outlet hole.

Because of the small diameter of

011. the hole, the plumb bob/string

method may not work on the amplifier end. If so, tape the two cable ends (which come from the speakers) to a stiff wire and push them up through the hole. Since there’s only a l-inch hole upstairs, you’ll probably need to wiggle the wire around until your helper can locate it and snag the wires taped to the end. They, too may need to use a length of stiff wire with a hook in it to grab the cables through the small hole.

Have your helper pull the cable

012,

up until most of the slack has been taken up down in the crawl space or basement. If you want, you can secure the cable runs to the floor joists or beams using insulated staples.

You’ve done it! Skip to the next section

titled

“Hooking up your speakers.”

UP AND OVER (ATTIC CRAWL SPACE)

0 Tape measure 0 Cordless drill with a

I-INCH

BIT (or non-cordless model with long extension cord) 0 A VERY long roll of speaker wire 0 Wire cutters - either diagonal pliers or wire strippers which include a cutting surface. 0 Plumb bob or string with a

smcall

weight (such as a metal nut) on the end 0 Tape

Crawl up into the attic with all

02.

any kind will do

the

aforementioned stuff and proceed to a spot that’s directly over one of

the

speaker cut-out holes.

After carefully measuring to make

03.

sure you’re in the right place, drill a hole through the horizontal

2x4

directly ABOVE the SPEAKER. Then drill a hole for

04.

Time to use that roll of cable. Push

the

other speaker.

the cable end through one of the holes

you

just drilled until it extends at least 8 feet. If you encounter insulation, such as an outside wall, tape the speaker cable to a stiff wire and poke it down until it can be located at the speaker cut-out.

reel out cable while moving across. the attic/crawl space until you reach the location above your amplifier.

06.

Extend at least 10 (TEN) more feet of cable for the roll and cut it.

Grab your coil/roll of wire and

07. move over to the hole that’s been drilled above the other speaker. Extend at least 8 feet of wire down through this hole

08.

Again, making sure that the end

doesn’t get pulled back up through

the hole, reel out cable

until

reach the space above the amplifier.

Extend at least 10 (TEN) more feet

09.

of cable and cut it. You now have cables running from both speakers. Time to get them down the wall to where the amplifier will be.

010.

Drill a l-inch hole through the

horizontal 2x4 directly above the amplifier wall outlet.

011

Now you’re going to guide cables down to where they’ll emerge from the wall. Since this hole isn’t very big, just

stuffmg

them down

and grabbing them won’t work.

you

0 1. You’re about to ascend into your

attic. Grab

the

following:

Making sure the end doesn’t get

pulled back up through the hole,

wire

“runs”

(thickness exaggerated

from each speaker

for

clarity)

l-Inch

hole

DRAWING 7 - UP AND OVER

Page 10

Instead, it’s time for the plumb bob or string-with-weight (or wire

if there’s insulation to contend

with). Tape the two cable ends

(which come from the speakers) to the plumb bob string just above

the

weight and lower the whole thing down through the I-inch hole above probably have to “feed out” the attached cable to get the weight to descend.

Continue “paying out” both

012

cables until they and the weight hit bottom.

plumb bob string to something so that it doesn’t fall down the hole.

Exit the

013

stretch for a moment. Go over to the l-inch amplifier

014

wire hole and look for the extended string/plumb bob and attached cables. If they’re not visible, fish around for them with your and pull them through the hole. Then rescue the plumb bob from the attic.

the

amplifier. You’ll

‘lie

the free end of the

attic crawl space and

stiffwire/unbent

coat hanger

OVERLAND

If, for a variety of reasons, it’s impossible to route cables above or below, you can still achieve a relatively invisible job, assuming your amplifier can be located in the same room. The only visible cable will be a on the baseboard below each speaker.

01.

On the wallboard directly-below

each speaker cut-out hole, measure up 2 inches from the mark the spot with a pencil dot.

02.

Drill a small hole just large enough to admit a speaker cable.

Insert one end of your speaker wire

03.

through the small drilled hole and use a stiff hooked wire to fish out the speaker cable from above. Repeat for both speakers.

04.

When a room is carpeted, the baseboard moldings are elevated slightly to clear the carpet and pad. This creates a hollow space

I”-2”segment

floor

and

between the bottom of the molding and the floor which can be used to conceal your speaker cable along the perimeter of the room. Use a screwdriver to until you reach the spot where your amplifier will be.

To secure the cable so that it

doesn’t get pulled out during vacuuming, add insulated staples at the points where the cable enters and exits the baseboard.

Note: If your baseboards are taller than

normal, you can drill the hole behind the baseboard and avoid the visible cable. You may have to chisel a shallow channel in the back of the baseboard for clearance.

stuff

the cable under

sh.ort

length of

DRAWING 9

At the speaker holes, things are

015,

much

easier.

You can just reach

through and grab the cables. their whole free length out the cut speaker hole. You’ve done it! Skip to the next section, titled

*‘Hooking up your speakers.”

Pull

DRAWING 8

OVERLAND

Page 11

HOOKING UP

THE SPEAKER END

01.

The main thing to remember when

hooking up speakers is

that

the two

conductors in

the

speaker wire are not

interchangeable. One

will

be used as a

POSITIVE (+) conductor and

the

other

as a NEGATIVE

(-)

conductor. These

correspond to

the

RED

(+>

and BLACK

(-) connectors on your

B+C

Muro

In-

Wall Speakers and also to the speaker terminals on your amplifier or receiver.

IDENTIFYING

“+”

and

“0”

You need to be able to discriminate

between the two conductors in

the

zip

cord.

your wire has transparent insulation, this is easy: One conductor will be copper-colored and the other silver-colored. Generally, professionals denote the copper one as POSITIVE (+) and

the

silver

one as NEGATIVE

(-).

you’ve used wire

which

has an

opaque insulation, there are

still

differen-

tiating

markings.-Examine the

wire close-

ly and look for:

l A series of ribs or grooves on

one conductor

Make sure that

the speaker wire

Is passed

THROUGH the

mounting bracket

before connection

01.

02.

03.

04.

05.

06.

l A painted stripe l A single strand of yarn inter-

twined with the multi-stranded wire in one conductor.

Denote any of these as the POSITIVE (+) conductor for similar connections on both ends.

Cut off excess wire, leaving about 2 feet extending through the speaker cut-out hole.

Pull the conductors apart so they’re separated for the first two inches from their ends.

Using wire strippers, diagonal pliers or a knife, remove l/2 inch of insulation from each conductor.

Twist

the tiny strands in each conductor into tight spirals, as shown in Drawing 9.

IMPORTANT

Route the speaker

wire THROUGH the

Be1.C

In-wall speaker frame as shown in Drawing IO.

Attach the speaker wires to the red and black speaker terminals. Press down on the protruding levers while inserting the wire into

the

hole.

l Connect

the

POSITIVE (+) conductor to the RED terminal and the NEGATIVE

(-)

conductor to

the

BLACK speaker terminal.

07.

l Make sure

that

no stray strands of wire have gotten detached and are touching the other main wire.

Repeat Steps 1 through 6 for

the

other

BIG

In-Wall

Speaker.

AT THE AMPLIFIER END

02.

03.

04.

05.

Cut off excess wire, leaving enough to comfortably reach from the hole in

the

wall to your stereo system. If there’s a possibility that you’re going to move the amplifier to another part of the room, consider leaving some excess wire coiled up. If you’ve used sufficiently thick

wire, this extra length will not

affect

speaker performance and could make things easier if the room is rearranged later.

Pull the conductors on both speaker wires apart so they’re separated for the first two inches.

Using wire strippers, diagonal pliers or a knife, remove

l/2

inch

of insulation from each conductor.

‘I\vist

the

tiny

strands in each

conductor into tight spirals.

Attach

the

speaker wires to the red

and black speaker terminals on the

amplifier or receiver.

l Connect the POSITIVE (+)

conductor to

the

RED terminal and

the

NEGATIVE (-) conductor to

the

BLACK speaker terminal.

l Make sure that no stray strands

of wire have gotten detached and are touching the other main wire.

Page 12

FINAL ASSEMBLY

0 1. If you haven’t done so already

05.

during painting, remove the perforated grilles from both

B+C

Muro

In-Wall

Speakers, Use one of the black mounting screws to push the grille out from the back side.

Attach the black mounting bracket to

the

speaker using the black screws provided, as shown in Drawing 11. Tighten the screws just a few turns each - only enough to loosely hold

the

mounting bracket

in place. NOTE: Although six holes are

provided on both the speaker and bracket, only four are used.

Slide the bottom of the bracket inside the speaker cut-out hole, followed by the top so that the wallboard is between the bracket and

the

speaker.

A. Attach mounting

With screws

bracket to speaker

with

4 screws

only

lightly

threaded...

..fint

the bottom,

then the top.

04.

06.

Center the speaker in the cut-out hole and tighten the screws until the mounting bracket is drawn up snugly from behind, clamping the speaker in place. Try to tighten each screw equally.

Replace the

B.1.C

Muro speaker grille by gently pressing it into place.

Repeat the above steps for the other speaker.

In most situations, the grilles will Et

tightly without vibration. If any audible

vibration does occur - or if your

B.1.C

In-wall speakers are ceiling-mounted,

you finally get to use the contents of that

mysterious packet with the black stuff

wrapped in little

white

papers, They’re

pre-cut lengths of a special

damping/adhesive material,

Remove the perforated grille, unwrap four of the damping strips and affix them to the four outer comers of the inner

speaker surface. Then replace the grille.

E. Tighten

all 4 screws

evenly.

c. .

..slip

the bracket

behind the

wallboard..,

A SHORT TEST

DRIVE

It’s a good idea to test everything out at

this

point. Also, although we’ve paid close attention to speaker polarity, we haven’t concerned ourselves with which wires went

01.

02.

03.

05.

06.

to left and right speakers.

Turn on your stereo system. Make sure that the VOLUME control is turned down and that the BALANCE control is set to center.

Activate a musical source such as

FM, a tape or CD player. Gently turn up

the

volume. You

should hear music coming out of

your new

B.1.C

In-Wall Speakers!

(If you don’t, refer to the

troubleshooting guide on the next

Page*)

Now rotate the stereo’s BALANCE

control all the way to the

LEFT.

Sound should only come out of your left speaker. If it comes out of the RIGHT speaker, skip to Step

6B.

Rotate

the

BALANCE control all the

way to the RIGHT. Sound should

only come out of the right speaker.

If this is the case, your installation is a success. We suggest you read the section on the next page titled Taking care of your new

in-

wall

Speakers”

(for further

operating tips).

0613.

sound comes from the right speaker when the stereo’s balance control is turned to the

LIFf,

you’ll need to change the connections on the back of the amp or receiver.

FIRSTTURNOFFTHE

AMPLIFIER!

l Then swap the wires attached to

the left and right speaker terminals.

DRAWING

Page 13

A QUICK

TROUBLESHOOTlNG GUIDE

Before returning your Speakers for service, it’s ,a good idea to check out these simple remedies

iound

Intermittent sound from one speaker or speakers play initially but then shut off.

from either speaker

Incorrect source selected on receiver or

Mute button pressed on receiver. Wrong speaker output selected many receivers have an “A” and

“B”

speaker switch. Make sure it’s

in the right position.

‘ound

Un-secure connection at either the speaker

check them. Balance control turned left or right Bad connecting cable between sound a new cable.

Defective speaker - contact your

B+C

dealer or call

Short circuit’at either the amplifier or speaker connectors is activating the amp’s protection circuits connections, making sure no stray strands of wire are touching the ‘other.

preamplZier.

from one speaker

amptier -

source

double check

B+C

In-Wall

t?rst.

double

all

the way

return it to center.

and amplifier - try

(800)

348-6492.

fror;l

one connector

Both speakers play but sound is mixed with hum.

It could be a faulty patch cord. If so, there will be hum from your main speaker system as well as from your

Assuming you didn’t have hum in your system before, one or both of the speaker wires has been run too close to internal AC house wiring.

Re-route it so that it stays at least 2 feet away from AC power wiring when running parallel.

Both

speakers play but sound is muffled and “strained”. Amplifier may shut off if volume is raised too far.

Too thin a gauge of wire has been

run too far a distance between amp and speakers. Make sure that you have followed our suggestions as to wire gauge versus overall distance.

(M-60, M-80, M-8.3, Vl-38 only) When volume is turned up to a high level, the treble cuts in and out

The M-60, M-80, M-8.3 and VI-38 feature a special protection circuit which electronically disconnects the tweeter if it starts getting too hot. Turn down your amplifier and make sure to read the section of this manual titled

your new in-wall speakers”

which starts on this page.

B+C In-Wall

‘Taking care of

Speakers.

BIC Muro M-50 Manual , Muro M-60, Muro M-80, Muro M-8.3, Venturi VI-38 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual