Beechcraft Bonanza User Manual

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Before beginning construction ofyour Bonanza you should

make

these following corrections:

Fuselage Plan The correct site of the rudder/fintip block

(BON9S08)

is: 5/8" x

7/8'

x 6-1/4'

Page

57,

step 7-ChangeF2to F1

Page

57,

step

Change F2toF1A.

Page

58,

step

Change

.along the cut lines .

."to".

.about

l/l6"

inside the cut lines.

Page

58,

step

Change ".. Phillips head

Socket Head Cap Screw. ."

Page

60,

step

Change1"x 1-3/4"X2"

-3/8'x1-3/8'

x 1-1/2'

Page

62,

step

Change Fuselage to "cowl

Page

64,

step (wing)l-Add"as"after the word"such

Page

68,

step10-

Ad d sure"after the word "make

Page

69,

control throw chart-Trim mixing section change references to

Down

"Up"

WARRANTY.

....

TOP

Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top

Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right

change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user

assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all

resulting liability.

the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the useofthis product, the

buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place

purchase.

Top

Flite Models

P.O.

Box

788

Urbana,

61803

Technical Assistance-Call

(217) 398-8970

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION

BOOK

FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONSAND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USEOFTHIS MODEL.

Entire Contents -Copyright

1997 30051

BON9P03

TABLE

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

................................................

PRECAUTIONS

..................................................

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

.........................

Tail configuration

............................................

Engine selection

.............................................

Exhaust system

..............................................

Retractable landing gear

................................

Flaps

...............................................................

TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES

.................

Operational lighting

.........................................

Scale cockpit interior

......................................

NOTES FOR COMPETITION MINDED MODELERS

........................................................

DOCUMENTATION

............................................

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

...............................

Accessories

....................................................

Building supplies

.............................................

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

.......................

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

............................

TYPES OF WOOD

..............................................

METRIC CONVERSIONS

...................................

NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER

........................

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

..................................

GET READY TO BUILD

...................................

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

.........................

Make the skins for the tail surfaces

..............

Build the stab and elevators (straight

tail)

....

Build the fin and rudder (straight

tail)

...........

Build the stab and ruddervators (V

tail)

........

Make the stab tips

........................................

BUILD THE WING

............................................

Make the wing skins

.....................................

Preparations

.................................................

Build the outer wing panels

..........................

Sheet the top of the wing panels

..................

Finish the outer wing panels

.........................

Build the center section

................................

Sheet the top of the center section

...............

Prepare the bottom of the wing for sheeting.28

Sheet the bottom of the wing panels

............

Cut out the wheel wells

.................................

Build the wing tips

.........................................

Build the flaps

...............................................

Build the ailerons

..........................................

Mount the flap and aileron servos

................

Join the wing panels

.....................................

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

..................................

Preparation

...........................

.......................

Build the bottom of the fuselage

...................

Mount the servos

..........................................

Finish framing the fuse

.................................

Sheet the fuselage sides

..............................

Glue the tail cone together

...........................

Build the turtle deck (V

tail)

..........................

Hook up the ruddervators

.............................

Fit the tail cone

.............................................

Center the stab

.............................................

Align the stab horizontally

.............................

Mount the fin

.................................................

Build the turtle deck (straight

tail)

.................

Hook

up the rudder and elevator

..................

Build the dorsal fin

........................................

Fit the tail cone

.............................................

MOUNT THE ENGINE

......................................

MOUNT THE NOSE LANDING GEAR

.............

Fixed gear

.....................................................

Retractable gear

...........................................

FINISH CONSTRUCTION

................................

Hook

up the throttle

......................................

Sheet the forward deck and bottom

..............

Fit the cabin top

............................................

Mount the cabin top

......................................

Fit the windows

.............................................

Mount the wing to the fuse

...........................

MOUNT THE V-TAIL STAB

.............................

MOUNT THE STRAIGHT-TAIL STAB AND FI N

.....

Sheet the bottom of the wing center section 60 Make the belly pan

.......................................

Build and fit the cowl to the fuselage

............

FINISHING

........................................................

Fuel proofing

.................................................

Cabin details

.................................................

Scale details

.................................................

Final sanding

................................................

Cover Top Flite MonoKotefilm

.....................

Painting

.........................................................

Join the control surfaces

...............................

Glue in the windows

.....................................

Make door and hatch outlines

......................

Apply the decals

...........................................

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY

..............

Balance your model

......................................

Balance the airplane laterally

.......................

Install your receiver and battery pack

...........

Control surface throws

.........................

68&69

PREFLIGHT

......................................................

Charge your batteries

...................................

Balance your propellers

................................

Find a safe place to fly

..................................

Ground check your model

............................

Range check your radio

................................

Engine safety precautions

............................

FLYING

.............................................................

Fuel mixture adjustment

...............................

Takeoff

..........................................................

Flying

............................................................

Landing

.........................................................

TWO-VIEW DRAWING

.....................

Back Cover

Flaps

.............................................................

-2-

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY

PRECAUTION

YOURSELF

OTHERS-FOLLOW

Your Beechcraft Bonanza is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance,

you do

not assemble and operate your Bonanza correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and damage property.

make your

R/C

modeling experience totally enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your first flights from an experienced,

knowledgeable modeler.

You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready

solo.

Your local hobby shop has information

about flying clubs in your area whose membership

includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered clubs across the United States. We recommend you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club sites and events. AMA Membership is required at chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll

free

phone number below:

SINCE

1936

AcademyofModel Aeronautics

51 51 East Memorial Drive

Muncie,

47302

Fax (765) 741

0057

(800)

435-9262

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Beechcraft Bonanza is intended for scale and general sport flying including

mild

aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to withstand such stresses.

you intend to use your Bonanza for more abusive types of flying such as racing, aggressive aerobatics, or flying from rough fields, it is your responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.

NTRODU

CTl

Thank you for purchasing the

Top Flite Gold

Edition Beechcraft Bonanza.

From this kit you can build either the V35B

V-tail (1 970, 1971

)

or the F33A straight tail (1970,

1971).

you like the looks of the V-tail best, don’t

be intimidated. Actually, the V

tail is a little easier

to build than the straight tail because it has fewer

parts! See page 7 for more comments on the differences between the V

tail and the straight tail.

Since this is a scale model with lots of detail, you’ll find it takes a little longer to complete than the sport models you’ve built before. But since this is a Top Flite Gold Edition kit, it isn’t more difficult to build than those sport models. The Top Flite

Bonanza uses the same materials and standard construction techniques you’ve already become accustomed to. You won’t have to learn anything new to end up with a first class scale model! Not only that, nearly all of the trim schemes you’ll find on full size Bonanzas are quite simple and should be easy to duplicate with Top Flite

MonoKote film!

The Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza is an excellent

Sportsman or Expert Scale subject. Its large size and accurate scale outline afford you the opportunity to go a ll out with as many extra details

as you like. And with the abundance of Bonanzas

at airports around the country, finding a full scale

plane to model shouldn’t be a problem. The option

of building either a V

tail or conventional tail opens

up the possibilities even more!

-3-

Anyone who has mastered a low wing sport model should be able to fly the Bonanza without difficulty. It handles very much like a full size Bonanza

smoothandpredictable.

Because of its 81” wingspan, the Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza is eligible for IMAA* events. In order to be IMAA legal some of the control components and hardware may need to be replaced to conform to Giant Scale rules even though this model does not require heavy duty hookups.

Several scale accessories specially designed for the Top Flite Bonanza are available separately including a full cabin interior, in

cowl exhaust system, and a complete lighting kit. See the Scale Accessories section on page

for more

information.

*IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association)

is an organization that promotes non

competitive

flying of giant scale models.

IMAA

International Miniature Aircraft Association

205

Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

Please inspect all parts carefully before

starting to build!

any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this model,

please call us at (217) 398

8970 and we’ll be

glad to help.

you are calling for replacement

parts, please look up the part numbers and the

kit

identification number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them ready when calling.

PRECAUTIONS

You must build the plane

according to the

plans and instructions.

not alter or modify the

model, as doing

may result in an unsafe or

unflyable model.

In a few cases the plans and instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances you should assume the plans and written instructions are correct.

You must take time to

build straight, true

and

strong.

You must use a proper RIC

radio

that is in first

class condition, the correct sized

engine

and

correct

components

(fuel tank, wheels, etc.)

throughout your building process.

You must properly

install

all R/C and other

components

that the model operates properly

on the ground and in the air.

You must

test

the operation of the model before

every flight

insure that all equipment is operating, and you must make certain that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check external nylon clevises often and replace

them

they show signs of wear.

you are not already an experienced

R/C

pilot

you must

fly

the model

only with the help

of a

competent, experienced

R/C

pilot.

NOTE:

We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how

you

build

it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety

your

completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow

directions to end up with a well

built model that

is straight and true.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

TAIL CONFIGURATION

You

may build your Bonanza as a

straight

tail

or a

V-tail.

Complete instructions are provided for both. The main differences in construction are building the tail surfaces themselves, the way they mount to the fuse, and the turtle deck sheeting.

you wish to utilize the elevators as

ruddewators

(elevators and rudder) on the V-tail,

you will need a computer radio with V

tail mixing

or a servo mixer such as the Ace MixMaster

(ACEM2510). However, the Bonanza will fly just

fine with elevators only and no rudder input.

not be intimidated by the V-Tail configuration. It

flies beautifully and is as easy

handle as the

straight tail.

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

.60

.91

cu.

in.

2-stroke

-or-

.90to,120 cu.

in.

4-stroke

The Bonanza will fly

well

with any of the

recommended engines. The 4

stroke engines

and most

.75

2-stroke engines will turn a larger prop at lower RPM’s. This is often desirable for scale realism. Many

.60

2-stroke engines produce about as much horsepower as the popular

.75

or .90 2-stroke engines and will fly

the Bonanza well.

you use a

.60

2-stroke,

ball bearing, Schnuerle-ported engine is highly recommended. Our prototype Bonanza weighed 13 pounds with all of the options, including flaps, scale cockpit interior and operational lighting, and was flown with a SuperTigre

G-75.

It turned

a Top Flite Power Point 12x8 prop at 9,600 RPM.

This engine provided excellent performance and more than enough power, even in gusty winds.

Although larger engines can be used to

power this model, the extra horsepower is

not

needed.

The included adjustable engine mount will

hold a range of engines from

.60

2-stroke

through 1.20 4

stroke.

EXHAUST SYSTEM

A Top Flite header and muffler are available that will fit inside your cowl. They are designed for 2

stroke engines mounted horizontally, as

used on the model and shown in the instructions.

For part numbers see the accessory list on page 6.

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

You may build the Bonanza either with fixed or retractable landing gear. Of course, fixed gear will be much easier to install than retracts; but we provide detailed instructions on retract installation

you should have no trouble. We chose the Robart #BZA80 retracts because they are specially designed for this model. This

landing gear is a special adaptation of the Robart

#640

mains and the #631 nose gear. Other

systems may work as well but it is up to you to

make modificationsto fit them into the model.

This model was designed to incorporate scale

flaps; however,flaps are optional are not

necessary

for an excellent flying experience.

Without flaps, the takeoff roll is longer and the

landing speed is faster.

The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do

require good craftsmanship to

fit

well. Flaps add

nicely

the model’s flight characteristics and scale appearance while causing no bad effects. Only slight trim correction is needed when they are used with the recommended throws. They are a highly recommended

fun

option

for those who wish to install them. More information on the use of the flaps may be found in the “Flying” section.

For part numbers see the accessory list on page

-4-

FLAPS

Operational lighting

ROTATING BEACON

ING

NAVIGATION

LIGHTS

STROBE LIGHT

(GREEN

RIGHT, RED-LEFT)

An operational lighting system (TOPQ7912) has been developed specially for the Top Flite Bonanza and was installed in our prototypes. Guidelines are provided in this manual for building the wiring into the wing and building brackets to hold the wing tip and tail navigation lights. You can install the lights in the fuse at any time. The instructions included with the lighting kit provide information on how to hook everything up. The lighting kit includes one rotating beacon for the top

the fuselage, one landing light for the front of the cowl, and three navigation or

position

lights for the wing tips and tail cone (green in the right wing tip, red in the left wing tip, and white in the tail cone).

If you would like toadd the strobe lights in the wing tips, order RAM #RAM01 (RAMQ2301) and purchase additional clear lenses directly from RAM.

Scale cockpit interior

Your model won't be complete without the Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Cabin Interior (TOPQ8402). It includes the floor, side panels, full instrument panel and six seats! You can install the Cabin Interior at any time because the cabin top is removable but it's easiest

build the cockpit into the model while it's under construction. The servos and

pushrods are located

the Cabin Interior can

be installed without any modification.

NOTES

FOR

COMPETITION

MINDED MODELERS

We designed our model from Beechcraft's own

1969 3

view drawings and from measurements taken from a V35B at a local airport. The model scale is 1 5 .

you plan to enter your Bonanza in scale competition (it's lots of fun, and the runways are almost always paved!), this kit qualifies for

Fun

Scale

and the

Sportsman

and

Expert

classes in

Sport Scale.

Fun Scale and Sport Scale have the same flight requirements where you must perform ten maneuvers of which five are mandatory.

you have never competed in a scale contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, the only documentation you need for static judging is any proof that a full size aircraft of this type, in the

painffmarkings scheme on your model, did exist.

single photo, kit box cover, even a painting is sufficient proof!

you're interested, contact the AMA for a rule book which will tell you everything you need

know. Look in the back of the AMA

magazine

Model Aviation

for a schedule of events.

The trim scheme of the Bonanza on your kit box

was

inspired

by several trim schemes and is not

taken from one particular plane.

you are not too concerned with an exact scale trim scheme you can duplicate the one on the kit box, make a

variation of the one on the box, or design your own trim scheme.

you are goingtocompete in scale competition use the photos in your documentation package as a guide for your trim scheme.

DOCUMENTATION

three view drawings and photo packs of full size Beechcraft Bonanzas are available from:

Scale Model Research,

31 14 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

(714) 979

8058

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

Accessories

These are additional items you will need to

complete your Bonanza that are

not included

with

your kit. Order numbers are in parentheses

(GPMQ4130). Our exclusive brand is listed

where possible:

TOP

is the Top Flite brand,

GPM

is the Great Planes brand, and HCA is the Hobbico brand.

4-to 6-channel radio with 6to 9 servos (2) 24"extension for ailerons (2) 12"extension for elevator and rudder servo (1)"Y

Harness for ailerons

3-1/2" Main Wheels (ROBQI51

2-3" Nose Wheel (ROBQI513)

(6)

3/16 Wheel Collars (GPMQ4309)

14 oz. Fuel Tank (GPMQ4106) 2-3/4" White Spinner (GPMQ4525) 36"Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)

1 / 2 R/C Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)

1/5 Scale Pilot Figures (WBRQ2485)

Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160)

Exhaust Deflector (HCAP2175)

3-4 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote covering,

see

Finishing

on page 64

Paint, see

Finishing

on page 64

Propellers,

see

the engine instructions

Items for V-tail with elevator only:

(1)"Y

Harness for elevator servos

(if

building

tail with elevator only)

For Flaps, the following additional items will be

required:

(1)

"YHarness

(2) 9"Servo Extensions (1) Dual Servo Extension

Robart #309 Super Hinge Points (ROBQ2509)

Two standard servos

-5-

For an In Cowl Muffler setup, the following items will be required:

O.S

.61SF&FX Top Flite Header (TOPQ7920) SuperTigre .61-.90KTop Flite Header (TOPQ7925) SuperTigre .75-.9OG Top Flite Header (TOPQ7926)

.61-.75

Bonanza In CowlMuffler (TOPQ7917)

BUILDING

SUPPLIES

Here's a checklist of supplies you should have on hand while you're building.

We recommend Great

Planes Pro

and

Epoxy.

Glue/Filler

4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003) 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009) 2 oz. Thick CA-(GPMR6015) CA Accelerator (GPMR6035) CA Debonder (GMPR6039) CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) 30

minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

minute epoxy (GPMR6045)

Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)

Products

RC/56

canopy glue (JOZR5007) Microballoons (TOPR1090) Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165) Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)

Auto body filler (Bondo@or similar) 3M #75 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1900)

Denatured or lsopropyl Alcohol

Tools

#11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)

Single Edge Razor Blades (HCARO312, 100 qty.) Razor Plane (MASRl510) X-Acto@Building Square (XACR7726) X-Act0 Building Triangle (XACR7725) T

Pins (HCAR5100-small, HCAR5150

medium, HCAR5200-large)

3/32

9/32

1/8 5/16

5/32

9/64" or #29

Q 3/16" u11/64"or#10

1 / 4 13/64

or #7

Drill Bits:

1/16

17/64

Tools

(Cont.)

1/4-20 Tap and drill set (GPMR8105)

8-32 Tap and drill set (GPMR8103)

Kyosho"

LexarP

Curved Scissors (KYORl 01

Long handle 9/64 ball driver (GPMR8004) Long handle 3/32

ball driver (GPMR8002) Silver Solder (GPMR8070w/flux) Masking Tape Wax Paper Easy-Touch'"Bar Sanders* Heat Gun (TOPR2000) Trim Seal

Tool

(TOPR2200) Hot Sock (TOPR2175) Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)

EASY-TOUCH

HAND SANDER

*A flat, durable, easytohandle sanding

tool

is a necessity for building a well finished model. Great Planes makes a complete range of

Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders

(patent pending) and replaceable

Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper.

While building the Bonanza we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two

11"

Bar Sanders equipped with

grit and 150-grit adhesive-backed sandpaper.

Here's the complete list

Easy-Touch Bar Sanders

and adhesive backed sandpaper:

1/ 2 Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

Bar

Sander (GPMR6170)

22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)

grit (GPMR6180)

150

grit (GPMR6183)

220

grit (GPMR6185)

12' roll of Adhesive

backed sandpaper

Assortment pack

5-1/ 2 strips (GPMR6189)

We also use 3M 320

grit or 400-grit wet-or-dry

sandpaper

for

finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are

two

types of screws used i\n this kit:

number and a length.

Sheet metal screws are designated by a

For example #4 x 5/8":

Machine screws are designated by a number,

threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4

40 x 3/4":

When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as

necessary for the best fit.

Whenever the term

glue

is used this means you should rely upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When a specific type of adhesive works best for that step we will tell you what type of glue to use.

Whenever

just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either30-

minute epoxyor6-minute epoxy. When

minute epoxy is specified it is highly

recommended that you use only 30

minute epoxy because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

Occasionally we refer to the

toporbottom

of the

model or

down.

To avoid confusion, the

top

bottom

of the model is as it would be when the

airplane is right side up and will be referred

the top even

the model is upside down during

that step,

i.e.

the top main spar is always the top main spar even if the wing is upside down when you are working on it. Similarly,

move the former

means move the former toward the top of the

fuselage even

the fuselageisupside down when

you are working on it.

Incidence and Thrust Angles: The incidence

angles and down thrust angles shown on the fuselage side view are in reference to the stepped main fuselage stringer (the

1/4"

3/8"x36

stepped stringer), which is set at

0".

The right thrust shown on the bottom view is in reference to the centerline of the fuselage. Remember, this is

-6-

the

bottom view

right thrust is viewed as an

offset to the left from the bottom.

When you get to each step, read that step

completely through to the

end

before you begin. Frequently there is important information or a note at the end of the step that you need to know before you start.

Photos

and

sketches

are placed

ahead

of the

step they refer to. Frequently

you

can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN

THIS

BOOK

AND ON THE PLANS:

Deg=Degrees

Fuse

Fuselage

Leading Edge (front)

Landing Gear

Left

Right

Stab

Stabilizer

Trailing Edge (rear)

Inches

Elev

Elevator

Ply

Plywood

TYPES

WOOD:

.,......_....

...

Balsa Basswood

Plywood

Inch Scale

INCHES

25.4

(CONVERSION FACTOR)

1/64

"=.4 mm 3/4"=19.0 mm

1/32

"=.8 mm

25.4 mm

1/16

1.6rnm

50.8 mm

3/32

"=2.4

"=76.2 mm

118"

3.2

rnrn

6=152.4 mm

5/32

"=4.0

rnrn

"=304.8 mm

3/16

4.8

mrn

18=457.2 mm

114"=6.4

mrn 21"=533.4 mm

3/8

9.5rnm

609.6 mm

1/2"

12.7rnrn 30"=762.0 mm

5/8

15.9

rnrn 36"

= 914.4 mm

NOTES

FROM

THE

DESIGNER

Scale Accuracy:

The Bonanza was designed using three

view drawings from Beechcraft dated 1969. In addition,

measurements of all aircraft components were taken from a V35B Bonanza at a local airport.

Wing Design:

The TF Bonanza was designed with an

"1Beam"type of wing spar rather than the more traditional "DTube

type construction. Actually, the design could be

called an

"I-

Tube". This simplifies construction and is

approximately

50%

stronger than D-Tube designs. The wing was designed with an absolute minimum number of seams that must be sanded on the finished wing. The result is a very smooth wing.

Flaps:

Flaps on the full scale aircraft allow steeper approaches and slower landing speeds. They do exactly the same on this model. The improvement in performance is well worth the effort.

Landing Gear:

If you are installing fixed gear you will note

that the strut extends

out

from the center of the groved rail

instead of the end. This allows landing stresses

be distributed across three ply reinforced ribs, rather than being concentrated at the end of the rail.

you plan

install retractable landing gear,Ihighly recommend the Robart units especially designed for the Bonanza. They are

very robust and include shock absorbing struts. One of our

prototype models was built with Robart

#606HD

mains and a #607 nose unit. Though adequate, they required a lot of maintenance and occasional repair. Gear doors would look great on this model but you will have

do some

modifications

you want to install then. The mounting rails

40 50

100

110

120

130

140

150

160

Metric Scale

-7-

are designedtominimize damage in the event of hard landings or contact with obstacles.

Fuselage Design:

The fuselage design is fairly

conventional. The cabin top is a LARGE ABS piece and

drove many of the other design elements -such as how

get it into the box! But itdoes simplify construction and

looks great.

is designedtobe removable but ifyou are not

concerned with access

the fuel tank and cabin interior it

can be permanently glued in place, allowing the seams

be filled in. We found that ifyou choose your trim design carefully, the seams are pretty well hidden.

The cabin area is reinforced with

1/8

lite ply. While it is

more than strong enough,

would recommend that you

reinforce the area with some basswood rails along the

bottom of formers F2, F4 and F6 across the width

the

fuselage. We have included ample extra 1/4" x 3/8"

basswood material for this purpose.

V-Tailvsstraight tail:

personally feel that a Bonanza is

not a Bonanza if it isn't a V

Tail.Ifyou are intimidated by

rumors about V

Tails being hard tobuild or difficulttofly,

you shouldn't be. The V

Tail is easier to build and

just

easy

fly.

the other hand, was intimidated by the

V-Tail!

Just

kidding.Itwas designing the model tobe either

Tail or straight tail, using the same basic mounting

structure and pushrods and showing

all on the plans that

found intimidating.

You Need a Computer Radio?

NO!!

A computer radio

will simplify radio installation and allow full utilization of the

ruddervators but it is in no way required. Simply connect the ruddervator servos together with a Y

cable and use them as

elevators. Or use one of the many mixers available

obtain V-Tail mixing. Incidentally, this model duplicates virtually all of the flight characteristics of the full size aircraft. The rudders are somewhat ineffective and it has the

characteristic Bonanza tail wiggle. The

full

size aircraft has

differential throw when rudder is applied

the ruddervator having more up throw than down. This compensates for a nose down tendency otherwise. Try

duplicate this ifyou use a computer radio. We used a Futaba radio and did get the required compensation as you will note in the recommended control throws section.

Will It Really FlyOna

.60

Size Engine?

YES!! And very scale like as well. Our test flying was done with a new Super Tigre .75 with a TF in

cowl muffler.Itwas during

winter and it was cold so we weren't able

dial in the

engine very well.

was turningaTF 12-8 Power Point prop

at 9,600 RPM and we never felt a need for more power.

flew in a very scale like manner.

Good luck and good flying.

hope you enjoy building and

flying your Bonanza as much as

did designing it.

GET

READY

BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets, then roll them inside

out

they lie flat.

Remove all the parts from the box. Use a

ballpoint pen (not a felt

tip pen) to lightly write the

name or size on each piece

you can identify it

later. Use the

die-cut patterns

on pages

identify and mark the die

cut parts before you

remove them from their die

cut sheets. Many of the parts already have numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the number is located alongside the parts. You may remove all the die

cut parts from their die sheets now or wait until you need them. If a part is difficult to remove, don't force it out but cut around it with a

#I1

blade. After you remove the parts from their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die

cutting irregularities. Save

some of the larger scraps of wood.

DO NOT PUNCH OUT THE

ROUND LIGHTENING HOLE

W4, W5,

Note: If you are going to install retracts, don't

punch out the round

lightening hole

in the die-cut

3/32

balsa wing ribs W4, W5 and W6. Instead,

apply thin CA around the lightening hole to glue it

in place.

Separate the parts into groups such as stab,

fin, wing

and fuse.

Store smaller parts in zipper-top food storage bags.

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Make the skins

for

the tail surfaces

1. See the Hot Tip that follows and use six

1/16

30"balsa sheets to make two

1/16"x

stab skin

planks.

If you're building

the straight

tail, make a third

plank

for the

finlrudder skin from three more 1/16

balsa sheets.

Hey, if you're building the V-tail it

looks as if you are going to have three sheets

1/16

balsa leftover!

HOW TO MAKE THE SKINS

A. Use a straightedge and a sharp

#I1

blade to true the joining edges of the sheets. When you trim them, do not cut all the way through the first time but make

several passes so

you

slice

the

wood instead of splitting it.

Tightly tape the sheets together with masking

tape placed about every

along the seams. The sheets will not lay flat because they are tightly taped together.

C. Place wax paper on your workbench. Flip the sheets over and apply a bead of aliphatic resin

(wood workers glue

such as Great Planes Pro"")

between the seams. Immediately proceed

to the

next steD.

-10-

D. Use a credit card or thin peice of plywood to squeegee the excess glue from the seam. Wipe the glue off your squeegee with a paper towel or a

stick of wood. Immediately proceed to the next step.

INCORRECT: SHEETS NOT FLAT AND EVEN

....

CORRECT SHEETS ARE

FLAT AND EVEN

....

E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down with your fingers

they are flat and even. Place

weights on top of the sheets to hold them flat.

F. Squeegee the glue, press the seams flat, and place weights along the other glue joint. Let the glue dry.

Use the same procedure to make the wing

skins when you build the wing.

After the glue is dry, peel off the masking tape and decide which side of the planks will be the outside. Use a bar sander or a large, flat sanding block and 150

grit sandpaper to sand the planks

they are flat, even and smooth. The idea is to do the sanding

before

you glue the skins to the

structure.

Cut the

sheets in half, making four (or

six for the straight tail)

planks.

LE Grain

Stab

Elevator (Ruddervater)

Cut the

stab and elevator skin templates

from the plan. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint

pen to mark their outline onto the

planks

(do not use a felt

tip pen). The templates are

slightly oversize to allow for slight variances in

construction. Note the

grain direction.

Cut the

stab and elevator skins

from the planks.Ifyou're building the straight tail do the same for the fin and rudder skin.

Note:

The template shown on the plans for the elevator (ruddervator) is larger than needed. You will need to trim this to the correct size when you fit the skin into place.

Beech Fact:

Let's get it straight. All Bonanza 35's (that's A through V including the very first Bonanza

the35are V-tails. Models 33 through 33C

are

Debonairs

(more on the

Debonair

in a later

Beech

Fact).

Models 33E throughGare straight tail Bonanzas, as well as the very last Bonanzas produced: the 36 and A36. But

it's

not that simple. The

designations didn't necessarily proceed from A,

B, to C, etc. There were variations of some of the models such as the V35, V35TC. V35A, V35A-TC and

on.

Or, the F33, F33A and F33C. But, th e

number

designation rule

still applies. Now you can really

impress your friends!

you're buildingthe V-tail, skip to"Build the

stabilizer and ruddervators

" on page

17.

BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATORS

Build the right and left stab halves simultaneously. The left half of the stab plan shows the straight tail stab with dashed lines indicating the V

tail stab.

The right half of the stab plan shows the V

tail stab

with dotted lines indicating the straight tail stab.

STI. Position the plansothe stab is over your flat building board (or cut the stab from the wing plan) and tape it down and cover it with wax paper.

s1s

ST2.

Glue

both die-cut

118"

balsa

straight tail

LE braces

together and both die-cut

3/32

balsa

S1S

ribs

together.

ST3.

Test fit the die-cut

3/32

balsa

stab ribs

S2S

through

S7S

in the notches of both die-cut

1/8"

balsa

stabTEspars

Place both assemblies over the plan and add the LE brace. See the photo at step ST4.

ST4.

Use a small square to align the stab

spar at rib

S2S

over the plan. Pin rib

S2S

over its

location on the plan with a T

pin about in front

the TE spar.

ST5.

Use the same method to align theTEspar and pin the rest of the ribs on both sides of the stab to your building board over the plan.

ST6.

Pin the fronts of the ribs to your building

board over the plan.

ST7

Add

botn

de-cut

balsa

elevator

spars

(S8)

the assembly.

ST8.

Make sure all the jig tabsofall the ribs are contacting your building board. Glue the stab TE spar and elevator LE spar to the ribs with medium CA. Don't use large amounts of CA or build up fillets of glue. Later we will instruct you to reinforce glue joints that don't

look

strong.

ST10.

Glue the die-cut

1/16

plywood

straight

tail

TE doubler

the front

of theTEbrace (it's

the one with straight edges).

STI1.Add the center rib

S1Sand glue it into

position.

ST12.

Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft

sweep of the leading edge. Cut two shaped

5/16"x

15"balsa

stab/fin leading edges

to a length of

13-314"

and bevel the joining ends to match the

plan. Glue them to the ribs and the LE joiner

the

topiseven

with the

top

of the ribs. The bottom will

extend below the ribs but will be sanded flush later.

-12-

ST13.

Cut a

1/16

notch in center rib

S1S

behind

the LE brace. Test fit the die

cut

1/16"plywood

straight tail LEdoubler

in the notch. Deepen the

notch as necessary

the top of the doubler is

even with the top of rib

SIS.

Glue the doubler

the LE brace and glue rib

the doubler.

ST14.

Cut the end

off

both

SlAS

ribs at the

embossed line and set those little pieces aside.

They will b e used later to glue the aft end

AS into position. Fit the to the elevator LE spars, pin them

the plan, and then glue them to

the elevator LE spars.

ST15. Sand the top of the leading edges, stab

and elevator spars, and the TE brace

they

match the contour of the ribs.

not change the

shape of the airfoil by sanding too much.

ST16.

THIS STEPISVERY

IMPORTANT!

Arrange the T-pins so

every other rib

is held down

with one pin near the front and one pin near the

rear and make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs

at the same angle.

This will allow you to

finagle

the stab off your building board by lifting it up and to one side after the top sheeting is glued in place

(the T

pins are concealed).

ST17. Use your favorite method to glue the stab

skin to the stab. We recommend using aliphatic

resin to glue the skin to the ribs and TE spar, and CA for only the leading edge. Apply glue to the stab structure. Working quickly, position the stab skin

and hold the leading edge down until the CA

hardens. When the CA is hardened, wet the front of the skin with a

50/50

mix of alcohol and water and press it to the rest of the frame, holding it down with weights until the glue dries.

Note:

you choose to use CA for the entire job, be aware that residual accelerator you may have used earlier can make the CA you use for this step cure quickly. You'll have to work rapidly.

ST I8. Glue the elevator skin to the elevator. You can use CA for this step since the skin is small and easy to position. Make sure the trailing edge contacts the

stoppers

on the top of the jig tabs on

ribs S7S and S2S.

ST19. After the glue has thoroughly dried,

remove all the T

pins you can reach.

Carefully

lift the stab (with the elevators) from your building board. Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out the rest

the T-pins.

ST20. Use a razor plane or a#I1

blade to trim

the

bottom

of the LEsoit is the same size as the

front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.

ST21. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading

edges, stab spars, elevator spars and the TE brace

they smoothly blend.

ST22. Glue the little tips you cut

off

the end of

the

S1ASribs to the sheeting andS1AS.

BEVEL THE TE TO MATCH THE RIBS

TOP

SHEETING'ON

ELEVATOR

THE BOTTOM SKIN WILL FIT LIKE THIS

TOP SHEETING

ST23. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper

to bevel the trailing edge of the top elevator skin

it will accommodate the bottom skin. While you sand, apply pressure only to the sheeting and use the ribs to set your sander at the correct angle.

not bevel the trailing edge to a

sharp edge

but

leave about 1/32

squared off.

Hint:

Support the TE with the edge of your workbench or a platform while you sand.

ST24. Glue four die

cut

1/8"

balsa

elevator

torque rod blocks

between both sets of ribsSlAS

and S2AS.

ST25. Cut twelve 1-7/8" long

hinge blocks

from

the

1/4

3/8" x 3 6 balsa stick. Glue them evenly spaced to the stab TE spar and the elevator LE spar where shown on the plan. Glue the die

cut

1/8" balsa

stab gusset

to the hinge block and rib

S7S as shown on the plan. Position the gusset

is even with the bottom of the hinge block

you do not break it when you cut the hinge slot. Align the grain as shown on the plan.

-13-

ST26. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and

any protruding hinge blocks

they are even with

the bottoms of the ribs.

ST27. Reinforce any glue joints that do not

look strong.

ST28. Glue the elevator skins to the bottom of

the elevators

the trailing edges align.

ST29. Glue the stab skins

the bottom ofthe

stab.

you have not used any accelerator on the stab you may glue the skins on with thick or medium CA. Otherwise, use aliphatic resin. Work over a flat work surface and be careful not to add any twist into the stab as you press the skins to the stab frame.

Optional:

Use the die-cut

1/8"

balsa

straight tail stab cradles

S2T

and

S7T

to hold the stab flat on your workbench while you glue the bottom skins on. Use the stab cradles the same as

the wing cradles shown in steps

1-5

on page 30.

ST30. After the glue dries, use a bar sander with

150

grit sandpaper to sand the sheeting even with

the ends of the stab and elevators.

ST31.

Cut the ribs and separate the elevator from the stab. Sand the excess sheeting and rib stubs from the TE of the stab and the LE of the elevator. Sand the elevator sheeting even with rib SIAS.

ST32. Glue a die-cut 1/8" balsa

stab

(S10)

the TE

both stab halves. Glue a die-cut

1/8"

balsa

elevatorLE(also

S10)

to theLEof both

elevators.

ST33. Sand the stab TE's and the elevator LE's

they are even with the ends of the stab and

elevators. Sand the stab TE and elevator

LE's

they blend with the tips and skins.

ST34. Use

two

T-pins, placed in the

center

of the leading edge of one of the elevators near the ends, to align a straightedge and draw a centerline with a ballpoint pen.

ST35. Mark the other elevator and the TE of the

stab the same way.

ST36. Cut the hinge slots on the centerlines of the elevators and the stab where shown on the plan.

'3/4'

ST37. Cut six

hinges

from the 2

"x9

hinge

strip

as shown in the sketch. Snip the corners off

the hinges

they go into the slots easier. Temporarily join both elevators to the stab with the hinges.

necessary, adjust the hinge slots sothe

elevators and stab align.

ST39. Skip ahead to

Make the stab tips

page

to make the tip blocks (the straight tail and

tail tips are shaped the same way). When you're

done, return to step ST40.

ST40. Using the plan, accurately mark the

location of the

1/8"

elevator joiner

wire

and horn

(from now on referred to as just the

elevator

joiner)

on the elevators.

ST38. Locate the 3/4" shaped balsa

stab tip

ST41.

Drill

a 9/64"hole and cut a groove in the

center of both

LE's

for the joiner. Test fit the

elevator joiner in the elevators.

Hint:

Use a

1/8"

brass tube sharpened at one end

to cut the grooves.

blocks.

The tip blocks match the

V-tail

stab tips,

use the plan to reshape them to fit your straight

tail stab.

-14-

Cut a small groove in the TE of the stab

the

horn

on the elevator joiner will not bind

against the stab when the elevator deflects downward. Test fit the elevators to the stab, with the elevator joiner in place, and make adjustments

necessary.

Beech Fact:

remarkable airplane and held many world records. In

1949

light

planes flying 4,957

from

Honolulu

Odon.In1958itheld

miles

Pendleton, Oregon

The

Bonanza was (and

held

the

world record non-stop distance

miles

New Jersey piloted by Capt.

in45hours,

the

43 minutes from Manila

flown

by Capt.

same

36 hours,

record

Pat

Boling.

still

flying

is)

for

all

minutes

Bill

7090

BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER

ST1. Place the fin plan over your building board

and cover it with wax paper.

BEVEL THE NOTCHES IN THE

RIBS

FIN

THE ANGLE ON THE PLANS

ST2. Test fit the die-cut 3/32"balsa

through

finTEspar

the assembly over the plan. the notches of the fin spar, remove the ribs and bevel the notches in the spars and the ribs as shown in the sketch.

AND SPARS TO MATCH

ORIGINAL NOTCHES

fin ribs

in the notches of the die-cut 1/8" balsa

(R7)

and

rudderLEspar

the ribs fit tightly into

spar and the rudder LE

(R8).

Place

ST3. Use a small square to position the fin TE

sparover the plan near rib R2. Align rib R2 over

the

plan and pin it to your building board. Use one

pin near the front of the jig tab and one T

!ar the rear of the jig tab.

ST4. Use the same method to align the fin TE spar over the plan at each rib. Pin the rib to your building board. Glue the ribs to the spars with medium CA. Use small drops of CA and do not buildup fillets. Later, we will remind you to reinforce the glue joints.

Refertothis photo for the next three steps

ST5. Cut rib R1 apart between the spar notches.

Add fin rib

them

and rudder rib

the plan and glue them in position.

R1A

to the spars. Pin

ST6. Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft

sweep of the leading edge. Cut a shaped 5/16

x15"balsa

12-1/2". Glue it to the frontofthe ribssothe

the LE is

bottom of the

stab/fin leading edge

even

with the

will extend below the bottom of

top

of the ribs. The

to a length

top

th e ribs but will be sanded flush later.

-15-

ST7.

leading edge and the sub spars

Sand the upward facing edges of the

contour of the ribs. airfoil by sanding

not change the shape of the

too

much.

they match the

ST8. Arrange the T-pinssothey all go into the

jig tabs at the same angle. This will allow you to

finagle the fin and rudder off your building board by

lifting it up and to one side after the top sheeting is

glued in place (the T

ST9.

Glue

pins are concealed).

the fin and rudder skin to the

structure. The bottom of the fin skin should extend

below rib R1 by approximately 1/4"-1/2" trim it later. Make sure the trailing edge

you can

the

rudder meets the stoppers on the top of the jig tabs

Note:

on ribs R6 and

The rudder skin was cut

wider than needed, to allow enough material to trim

size now.

ST10. After the glue has thoroughly dried,

remove all the T

pins you can reach. Carefully lift the fin (with the rudder) from your building board. Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out the rest

of the T

pins.

ST11. Use a razor plane or a #11 blade to trim

the right side of the

it is the same size as the

front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.

ST12. Sand the bottoms ofthe ribs, leading edges, fin spar, rudder spar and trailing edges so that they blend.

ST13. Bevel the trailing edge of the left rudder skin the same way you did the stab.

ST14. Glue the four die-cut1/8"balsa rudder

torque rod blocks betweenR1Aand

the rudder.

ST15.Cut six 1-718" long hinge blocks from the

1/4" x 3 / 8

36" balsa stick. Test fit, then glue the

hinge blocks, evenly spaced,

the fin TE spar and

the rudder LE spar where shown on the plan.

ST16. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa fin gusset to the hinge block and rib R6. The gusset should be raised

it is even with the left side of the fin TE

and rib R6

(so

it does not interfere with the

hinge slot).

ST17. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and

any hinge blocks

they are even with the ribs.

BEVEL

FIN

POST

FRONT

SIDE

ST18. Cut a5"

long fin

post

froma114

"x318

basswood stick. Bevel one endsoit matches

the plan. Bevel the sides

to accommodate the

sheeting. Set the fin post aside for now.

ST19. Reinforce glue joints that don't

look strong.

ST20. Glue the other rudder and fin skin to the

right side of the rudder and fin.

Optional: Use the

die

cut 1/8" balsa finlstab cradles

RlC

and

R6C

hold the fin and rudder flat on your workbench

while you glue the right skins on.

ST21. Sand the tip of the fin and rudder sheeting

flush with rib R6.

ST22. Cut the ribs and separate the rudder from

the fin. Sand the excess sheeting and rib

stubs

from the TE ofthe fin and the LE of the rudder. Sand the bottom of the rudder even with rib

ST23. Glue a die-cut 118" balsa fin trailing edge

(R9)

to the fin TE spar and a die-cut 1/8" balsa

rudder leading edge

(R9)tothe rudder LE spar.

Sand the fin TE and rudder LE

they blend with

the tips and skins.

ST24. Use the

straightedge and pin

technique to draw a centerline on the LE of the rudder and the TE of the fin.

ST25. Cut the hinge slots on the centerline of

the fin and rudder where shown on the plan.

ST26. Cut three more hinges from the hinge strip and temporarily join the rudder to the fin. If necessary, adjust the hinge slots

the fin and

rudder align.

ST27. Securely tape the rudder to the fin with masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the

fin and rudder

they are even.

ST28. Draw a centerline on the top and bottom

of t he 518" x 718"

6-1/4" balsa fin tip block. Cut

the block into two pieces as shown on the plan.

Sand the edges you just cut

they are smooth

and match the angle on the plan.

-16-

ST29. Use thick or medium CA to glue the

rudder tip block

only to the rudder. Use the

centerline on the rudder tip block as a guide to make sure it is centered on the rudder and fin.

ST30. Glue the fin tip to the fin, making sure there is a 1/16" gap between the fin tip and the rudder tip.

ST31. Use a razor plane or a hobby carving knife followed by sanding to carefully shape the fin and rudder tip blocks. Inspect your progress frequently and use the centerlines as a guide.

Hint: Stick a T

pin through the top of the rudder tip into the fin. This will hold the rudder tip while you shape it.

ST32. Shape the LE of the fin as you did with

the stab.

ST33. Separate the rudder from the fin.

ST34. Shape the leading edge of the rudder to a

"V"

as you did with the elevators. Use the centerline on the leading edge as a guide. Make sure the angle of the

"V"

will allow the throws

indicated in the back of this manual.

ST35. Rejoin the rudder to the fin with the

hinges. Shift the rudder upward

there is approximately a 1/32" gap between the rudder tip and the fin.

ST36. Sand the topofthe rudder tipsoit matches the fin tip (since you raised the rudder slightly).

What a ni9pie

workmanship! Put the stab

and fin in a safe place, clean

off

your workbench,

vacuum the floor, read the following

Beech Fact,

then skip to page21and build the wing.

Beech

Fact:

At first, the

Bonanza

model existed only

in the V

tail configuration. The original straight tail

Beech, introduced in 1959, was named the

Debonair.

It was intended to be a less expensive,

bare essentials

model in the Beechcraft lineup to compete with Piper's Comanche and Cessna's soon

-to-be-

released 21

0. However, after many upgrades and changes, the Debonair evolved into what was basically a straight tail Bonanza.

in 1968 Beech decided to drop the

Debonair name and called both the

and the

35,

the

Bonanza. Neat-O!

BUILD

THE

STABILIZER AND

RUDDERVATORS

The right half of the stab plan shows the V-tail stab

with a dashed line indicating the straight tail stab.

The left half of the stab plan shows the straight tail

stab with dashed lines indicating the V

tail stab.

Build the

right

side of the stab firstsoyour

progress matches the photos.

V1. Position the plan so the stab is over your flat building board (or cut the stab from the wing plan) and tape it down and cover it with wax paper.

V2. Test fit.the die-cut 3/32"balsa

stab ribs

S2V

through

S7V

in the notches of the die-cut

1/8"

balsa

stab

spar

(S9)

and the

ruddervator LE

spar

(S8).

Place the assembly over the plan.

V3. Use a small square to help align the

ruddervator LE spar S8 over the plan at rib S2V.

17-

Pin the rear of the jig tab on S2V to the plan. Use

the same procedure to pin the rear of the jig tabs

on the rest of the ribs to the plan.

V4. One atatime, align the fronts of the ribs

over the plan and pin the jig tabs down

your

building board.

V5. Still without using glue, join

rib

SIV

the

assembly and pin it to your building board.

....

V6. Glue two die-cut 1/8'' balsaV-

tail

braces

together. Place them in the notches of ribs

S1Vand S2V as shown on the plan.

V7. Make sure all the jig tabs of all the ribs are contacting your building board, then glue the stab

spar, ruddervator LE spar and the V-tail

bracetothe ribs with medium CA. Don't use large

amounts of CA or build up fillets of glue. Later we will instruct you to reinforce glue joints that don't

look

strong.

V8. Bevel the fronts of the ribs to match the aft

sweep of the leading edge. Cut a shaped

5/16

"x15"

balsa

stab/fin leading edge toa length of

Glue it to the fronts of the ribs

the

top

even

with

the

top

of the ribs. The bottom of theLEwill extend

below the ribs but will be sanded flush later.

V9. Check the fit of the

cut notches of the ribs SIV, S2V and S3V.

die

sub spar (S11)

in the

Make any adjustments needed.

VIO. Test fit, then glue the sub spar in

position. Use a 90" triangle to insure that the sub

spar is vertical.

V14. Use your favorite method toglue the stab skin to the stab. We recommend using aliphatic resin

glue the skin to the ribs and

TE spar, and CA for only the leading edge. Apply the glue. Working quickly, position the stab skin and hold the leading edge down until the CA cures. When the CA is cured, wet the front of the skin with

50/50

mix of alcohol and water and press it to the rest of the frame, holding it down with weights until the glue dries.

Note:

you choose to use CA for the entire job, be aware that residual accelerator you may have used earlier can make the CA you use for this step cure

quickly. You'll have

work rapidly.

V19. Glue the little tip you cut

rib SlAV to the sheeting and SIAV.

For

clarity

we've drawn a /ine indlcating

BEVEL THE TETOMATCH THE RIBS

TOP

SHEETING

ELEVATOR

THE BOTTOM SKIN WILL FIT LIKE THIS

off

the end of

the bevel

V11. Cut the end off rib SlAV at the embossed line and set that little piece aside. Glue SlAV to the ruddervator

spar over its location

on the plan.

V12. Sand the top of the leading edge, sub

spar, elevator TE spar and the ruddervator

they match the contour of the ribs. Don't change

spar

the shape of the airfoil by sanding too much.

V13.

THIS

STEP

VERY

Arrange the T

pins

every other rib

IMPORTANT!

is held down with one pin near the front and one pin near the rear and make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs

at the same angle.

This will allow you to

finagle

the stab off your building board by lifting it up and to one side after the top sheeting is glued in place

pins are concealed).

(the T

V15. Glue the ruddervator skin to the ruddervator. You can use CA for this step since the skin is small and easy to posidon. Make sure the

trailing edge contacts the

stoppers

on the top of the

jig tabs on ribs S7V and S2V.

V16. After all the glue has dried, remove all

pins you can reach. Carefully lift the stab

the T (with the ruddervator) from your building board.

Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out

pins.

of the T

the rest

V17. Use a razor plane or a#I1 blade totrim

the

bottom

of the

it is the same size as the

front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.

V18. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading

edges, stab, ruddervator spars and trailing edges

they blend together.

-18-

TOP SHEETING

V20. Use a bar sander and 150-grit

sandpaper ruddervator skin

bevel the trailing edge ofthe top

it will accommodate the bottom skin. While you sand, apply pressure only to the sheeting and use the ribs to set your sander at the correct angle. Do not bevel the trailing edge to a

sharp edge

Hint:

but leave about 1/64

squared off.

Support theTEwith the edge of your

workbench or a platform while you sand.

V21. Glue four die-cut 1/8" balsa

torque rod blocks

between ribs SlAV and

ruddervator

SS2AV You can see the torque rod blocks in the following photo.

V22.

Remove a small section of rib

S2v

between the LEbrace and the sub spar. Now you should have a slot in rib

S2V

like the one in the

photo below.

NOT

cut the slot shown in rib S1

until instructed to dosolater.

V23.

Cut six

2-118"

long hinge blocks from

the

1/4"x3/8"x36"balsa stick. Glue the hinge blocks evenly spaced to the stab TE spar and the ruddervator

spar where shown on the plan.

Glue the die

cut 1/8" balsa stab gusset to the

hinge block and rib

S7V

as shown on the plan.

Position the gusset

it is not on the centerline of

the hinge

you do not break it when you cut the

hinge slot. Align the grain as shown on the plan.

V24.

Trim the ruddervator torque rod block

and any protruding hinge blocks

they are even

with the bottoms

the ribs.

V25.

Reinforce glue joints that don't look

strong.

V26.

Glue the bottom stab and ruddervator skins to the bottom of the stab and ruddervator. Work over a flat surface and be careful not to add any twist into the stab as you press the skins onto the stab frame. Make sure the

of the

ruddervator skins align. Optional: Use the die

cut

1/8" balsa V

tail stab cradles S2V and S7V to hold the stab flat on your workbench while you glue the bottom skins on. Use the stab saddles the same as the wing saddles shown in stepsl

5on

pages

30.

V27.

Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper

to sand the sheeting even with rib

S7V.

V28.

Cut the ribs and separate the

ruddervator from the stab. Sand the excess

sheeting and rib

stubs

from the TEof the stab and

the

of the ruddervator. Sand the root of the

ruddervator sheeting flush with rib SIAV.

V29.

Cut

4-3/8"

off the

small

end

the die-

cut

1/8"

balsa stab

(S10).

Glue the stab TEto

the stab

the root end aligns with the inner edge

of rib

S3V

as shown on the plan.

V30.

Shape the stab

TEsoit blends with the

stab and tip.

-19-

V31.

Glue a ruddervatorLE(also

S10)

to the

LE of the ruddervator and sand it

it blends with

the skins and tips.

V32.

Use

two large T-

pins,

placed in the center of the leading edge of the ruddervator near the ends, to align a straightedge and draw a centerline with a ballpoint pen.

V33.

Mark the trailing edge of the stab the

same way.

V34.

Cut the hinge slots on the centerline

the ruddervator and the stab where shown on the plan.

not cut the hinge slot in the stab nearest

the root until instructed to do

so.

V35.

Cut three hinges as shown in the sketch

from the

hinge

strip.

Snip the corners

off the hinges

they go into the slots easier.

V36.

Temporarily join the ruddervator to the

stab with

two

hinges.Ifnecessary, adjust the hinge

slots

the ruddervator and stab align.

MAKE THE STAB

TIPS

1. Securely tape the ruddervator (or elevator

you're building the straight tail) to the stab with masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the stab and ruddervator

they are even.

Draw a centerline all the way around a

3/4"

shaped balsa

stab tip block.

Place the stab tip block over its location on the plan. Mark where the ruddervator tip meets the stab tip on both sides of the block.

4. Cut the stab tip from the ruddervator tip.

True the edges you just cut with a bar sander.

RUDDERVATOR

-_I

Glue the

stab tip

the stab. The sharp

pointofthe stab tip should align with the TE of the

stab. Glue the

ruddervator tip

to the ruddervator

it is 1/8" aftofthe LE and aligns with the stab tip

(as shown in the sketch).

'.*'

Use a razor plane or a hobby carving knife,

followed by sanding to

carefully

shape the ruddervator and stab tip. Inspect your progress frequently. Use the centerlines as a guide and the plan as a reference

you know what the curve of

the tip should look like.

Hint:

Stick a T-pin through the ruddervator tip into the stab. This will hold the ruddervator tip while you shape it.

Note:

When you shape the left stab tip, in addition to the plan, use the finished tip on the right stab as a guide to shape the left stab tip. This way you can make sure both of the stab tips are identical.

Shape the stab LE as shown on the plan.

Separate the ruddervator from the stab.

Shape the leading edge of the ruddervator

to a

"V"

as shown on the plan. Use the centerline on the leading edge as a guide. Make sure that the angle of the

"V"

will allow the throws indicated in

the back of the manual.

Straight tail builders, make the other stab tip the same way; then, return to step

ST40

page

14.

V10. Starting at rib S1V,remove a 1 -3/8" strip

top

sheeting between the V-tail LE brace and

the sub spar. Remove a 1-1/4" strip of

bottom

sheeting between the V-tail LE brace and the sub spar. See the following photo.

Vll.

Remove the small section of rib S1V between the LE brace and the sub spar. Now you should have a slot in the stab like the one in the photo.

What a nice piece of workmanship! Put the right stab in a safe place. Clean off your workbench, vacuum the floor, and build the

left

stab the same way.

BUILD

THE

WING

MAKE THE WING SKINS

AFT

WING

SKIN CUT-OFF

1. Glue

three

3/32"x3

"x36"balsa sheets

together to make an

aft

wing skin.

Trim a wedge from the aft wing skin. Glue it back onto the skin as shown in the sketch.

2. Glue

two

3/32

"x3

"x30

(not

36")

balsa

sheets together to make the

forward outer wing

skin.

Note:

You will need a total of four

aft wing skins

and five

forward wing skins

(one of the forward wing skins will be cut into four pieces to make the forward

inner

skins). You can make all the wing skins now in an assembly line fashion or make them as needed.

3. After the glue dries, remove the masking tape and mark the best side of each skin as the top. Sand the bottoms of both wing skins

they are

flat (or almost flat). Sand the tops of the skins

they are flat andsmooth.

PREPARATIONS

Unroll the wing plan.

Roll

it inside out soit will

lie flat. Cut the

right

wing panel with the center

section from the wing plan. Position it on your

flat

building board and cover the plan with wax paper.

Perform steps 2through6if

you

are installing

retractable landing gear.

Have you purchased your retracts yet? Ifyou have (or as soon as you do), take the neoprene air lines out of the package and hang them from a hook somewhere in your shop letting them dangle under their own weight. This will get all the kinks out and make them easier to work with when it's time to install them.

Prepare a set of

right

wing ribs by using

minute epoxytoglue the die-cut 1/16

plywood

retract landing gear rib doublers

W4R, W5R

and

W6R

to the die-cut 3/32"balsa

ribs

W4, W5

andW6exactly

as shown in the

photo. Make sure the doublers are on the side of the ribs as shown in the photo and on the right wing plan.

3. Prepare a set of

left

wing ribs the same way

but

use the photo above

to make sure you glue

the doublers to the correct side of the ribs.

14. Remove the shaded area of balsa shown in e previous two photos after the epoxv is fullv ured.

SLOT

FOR

SERVO CORDS

3/16

HOLES

FOR

WING TIP LIGHTS

FOR

LINES

Drill 5/32"holes and cut slots at the locations suggested in the sketch in both sets of ribs W2, W3 and W4 for the retract air lines and

servo cords. Make the slots large enough

the

connectors on the ends of your servo cords will

pass through.

you will be installing lights in the

wing, drill 3/16

holes through wing ribs W3 through W14 in the approximate location shown in the sketch.

Hint:

An appropriate size brass

tube sharpened at one end cuts very clean holes.

Extend lines

well cutout

6. Use a ballpoint pen to extend the die-cut wheel well cutout in both W3 ribs. Cut partway through the rib along the line

the cutout will be

easier to remove later.

Beech Fact:

In 1946 Walter H. Beech

announced his all new, revolutionary, single

engine entry in the postwar market. He named

the Bonanza, descriptive of an extra value

offered in the way of economy, performance and pleasure to the owner.

Perform steps7through9only if you are installing fixed landing gear,

Test fit the die-cut

1/8"

balsa

aft inner spar

Prepare a set of

right

wing ribs by using

30-

minute epoxy to glue the die-cut

1/8"

plywood

fixed landing gear rib doublers

W4G, W5G

and

W6G

to the die-cut

3/32

balsa

ribs

W4, W5

andW6exactly

as shown in the photo. Make sure the doublers are on the side of the ribs as shown in the photo.

Prepare a set of

left

wing ribs the same way

but

use the photo above

to make sure you glue

the doublers to the correct side of the ribs.

Remove the shaded area of balsa shown

the previous two photos after the epoxy

fully cured.

Note:

Details for fixed landing gear are shown or

the

left

wing plan.

10.

you will be installing lights in the wing, drill

3/16

holes through wing ribs W3through

W14

in the approximate location shown in the sketch on step

page

21.

Fit the ribs and spar web to the bottom spar

the ribs accurately align with the plan.

11.

Use

straightedge and a ballpoint pen to

mark a vertical line

1/16

from the front and back of

the spar notches in both

ribs.

Use a sharp

hobby knife to

lightly

cut halfway through the balsa along the lines. You will remove this section of balsa to accommodate the spar joiners when it is time to join the wing.

BUILD THE OUTER WING PANELS

For clarity, some of the photos show the wing off

the building board without the plan, but of course you should build your wing over the plan the same as we do.

Build the

right

wing panel first soyour progress

matches the photos.

not use any glue until step

Pin a

1/4"x3/8"x36

balsa

bottom spar

over its

location on the plan

the root end extends past

the dashed line by about

1/8".

Stick the pins

through the spar at an angle

they will not

interfere with the spar web when you position it in the next step.

Test

fit

ribsW2through

W14

to the die-cut

1/8"

balsa

spar web

(W15).

necessary, deepen

the notches

(in

the ribs or in the spar web)sothe

ribs fit all the way into the spar web.

-22-

BEVEL THE NOTCHES IN THE RIBS AND SPARS TO MATCH THE ANGLE ON THE PLANS

ORIGINAL NOTCHES

Test fit the die-cut

118"

balsa

aft outer spar

(W16)

and the die-cut

1/8"

balsa

aileron spar

(W17)

into the notches of ribs through

W14.

If necessary, bevel the notches in the spars and ribs the same way you did in the previous step.

6. Temporarily remove rib W2from the

assembly.

One at a time, accurately align the jig tabs

of all the ribs with the plan and pin them

your

building board. In addition to T

pins, place weights

on top of the ribs and the aft spars to insure that

all

the jig tabs are contacting your building board.

Inspect all joints and make sure everything aligns with the plan. The spar web must fully contact the bottom spar. A die

cut 1/8" plywood

degree

gauge

is supplied in the kit to help you keep the

ribs vertical as you glue them.

8. Use medium or thin CAtoglue all the joints. Use the CA sparingly at this stage of construction and do not build up fillets. This will allow you

realign parts ifnecessary and keep

you from gluing the jig tabs to the ribs.

will

remind you to reinforce all glue joints later.

Place ribW2back onto the assembly. Align

with the dashed line depicting where it contacts

the plan. Use the die

cut 1/8" plywood

dihedral

gauge

to setW2at the correct angle. Glue it to the

bottom spar and the spar web. Glue

to the aft inner spar using the dihedral gauge to set it at the correct angle.

10.

Test fit a

1/4"x3/8"x36"balsa upper

spar in the notches of the ribs

the end of the

spar aligns with rib

W2.

Glue the spar to the ribs

and the spar web with thick or medium CA.

Remember, don't use too much glue.

ALIGN THE LE W TH THE TOP

EACH

RIB

11.

Cut a

1/4"x36"shaped balsa

leading

edge

to a length of

29-1/2".

Glue the LE to ribs

through

W14sothe top aligns with the tops of the

ribs (the same as on the stab).

12.

Bevel the endofthe remaining piece of

6-1/2" leading edge

it matches the LE on the

wing when you position it on ribs

W4,3and2.Glue

it in position. Glue

rib

W4A

the side of rib

W4.

Hint:

Glue the LE to ribW2lastsoyou can use

the dihedral gauge to make sure

is at the

correct angle.

NOTE:

Use a long straightedge along the length of

to insure that it is flat along it's length (from the

LE to the TE).

-23-

Beech Fact:

Among other famous Beechcraft models,

some include variations of the stagger

wing biplane;

several versions of the 18A which is a twin engine, low

wing mono

plane (distinguishable by its twin rudders); a light, single engine model named the Musketeer; a sort

bare-bones

straight tail Bonanza called the

Debonaic

the

T-34

(which is a

US.

Navy trainer); and

of course, several versions of the ever

popular twin

engine

Baron.

SHEET THE TOPOFTHE WlNGPANELS

Use a large sanding block or a bar sander

with 150

grit sandpaper to sand the tops of the top

spar, aft spars, LE and ribs

they all smoothly blend together. Make sure the tops of the aft spars match the tapering angle of the ribs but sand the ribs lightly

you maintain the designed

airfoil shape.

Remove the T-pins from the bottom spar

and replace them

they are all sticking in from the front. This way you will be able to remove them when the aft top sheet is in position. Remove the T

pins from the aft jig tabs and replace them in

every other jig tab

they all go into the building

board at the same angle

(you

know

the

drill).

Remove the weights from the top of the wing

(if

you

used them).

Note:

you observe that the wing panel remains flat and all the jig tabs are contacting your building board when you remove the T

pins, you may leave

the T

pins out of the jig tabs. In this case the

weights that will be used to hold the sheeting to the

ribs will be enough to hold the wing flat to your building board.

FORWARD INNER SKIN

FORWARD OUTER SKIN

-\AFT

SKIN

NOTE GRAIN DIRECTION

Use this photo and the sketch

for

the next few steps

This photo shows a few weights on top of the wing, but in actuality we used enough weights to fully cover the skins.

You

can use magazines for

weights too. T

pins in the front ensure that the

skins are securely bonded to the top spar.

Trim the aft wing skinsoit fits the wing.

The

TE should be straight and true and contact the

stopper

portion of the jig tabs on ribs W14 and W3.

The

front

of the sheet should

end

in the center of

the top spar. The ends should extend past W2 and

W14 equally.

4. Use your favorite method toglue the

aft

wing skin to the wing. We recommend using aliphatic resin because it gives you plenty of time to align the skin and position your weights or T

pins. Hold the wing skin in position with magazines or weights made from plastic bags filled with lead shot or

BBs.

If you choose touse T-pins to hold the skin

to the wing,

lightly

mark lines on the top of the wing skin indicating the location of the ribs underneath.

not disturb the wing until the

glue fully cures.

Remove the T-pins from the bottom spar. The weights on the aft sheeting will hold your wing flat.

Trim the forward

outer

wing skinsoit fits

the wing. The

aft

edge of the skin should contact

the aft skin (in the center of the spar) and the

front

edge of the skin should extend past the leading

edge of the wing by approximately 1/4". The

root

end of the sheet should accurately align with the

glue joint between W4 and W4

A and the

tip

of the

sheet should extend past W14 by about 1/16.

Note:

The grain direction of the forward outer skin

runs

parallel to the leading edge

of the wing.

7. Wet the top of the forward outer skin with a

50/50

mix of alcohol and watersoit will bend

easier. Glue it to the wing using weights or T

pins

hold it down.

8. If you haven't already done

so,

glue

two

more 3/32

x3x

30" balsa sheets together for the

forward inner skin.

From that sheet, cut a piece that fits between ribs W2 and W4 and glue on a third piece cut from leftover 3/32" balsa to

fill

up the rest of the space. Note that the grain direction is parallel to the leading edge between ribs W2 and W4. Trim the sheet to fit the wing. Glue it in position.

9. After the glue on all the sheeting is dry,

remove the T

pins you can reach and lift the wing

off your building board.

-24-

10.

Clean the glue blobs and wood chips

off

your workbenchsothey won't leave dents in your beautiful wing sheeting. Turn the wing over and

carefully cut the jig tabs off the ribs.

11.

Reinforce all glue joints that don't look strong. It is particularly important that the joint between the spar web and both spars are securely glued.

12. Position the

left wing plan

on your building board and cover it with wax paper. Return to step 1 on page 22, and repeat the steps to build the left wing panel.

FINISH THE OUTER

WING

PANELS

Start with the

right

wing panelsoyour progress

matches the photos.

Glue a die-cut 3/32" balsa sub-rib

W2A

ribW2where shown on the plan. The

sub

rib provides additional gluing area when the sheeting is installled. Use the W2A that does not have a notch cut in it for the flap spar.

Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa

flap ribs

W2A

and

W8A

and

aileron ribs

W9A

and

W14A

to the wing where shown on the plan. Note that W8A and W9A are perpendicular

the aileron spar W17.

Hint:

Temporarily place a

shim

made from 1/16

" leftover plywood between the ribs for perfect alignment.

3. Stick a pin through the wing sheeting in a few places along the space between W8A and W9A, along the space between W2A and W2A, and along the space between W14A and W14. These pin points will indicate where to cut the sheeting to separate the ends of the flap and aileron from each other and the wing.

3/32

3-3/16

11/32

4. Cut a shaped 18" balsa

flap spar

to fit between flap ribs W2A and W8A. Test fit, then glue the flap spar in the notches of the flap ribs.

Starting with 80-grit sandpaper on a large

sanding block or your bar sander, sand the

remainder of the jig tabs from the ribs and blend the bottoms of the aft spars and the aileron spar to the contour of the ribs.

APPROXIMATELY

1/32

BEVEL

6. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper

to bevel the trailing edge of the top wing skin

it will accommodate the bottom skin. While you sand, apply pressure only to the sheeting and use the ribs

set your sander at the correct angle. Donot

bevel the trailing edge to a

sharp edge

but leave

about 1/32

squared off.

Hint:

Support the TEwith the edge of your workbench or a platform while you sand.

Perform steps

7-13

you

are installing

retractable landing gear.

rail brace

Cut the 1/2"x3/4"x6-3/4" grooved

basswood

aft landing gear rail

to a length of 6

1/8". Test fit and glue the rail in position with 30

minute epoxy

(with the groove facing the top

sheeting).

Test fit, then glue the 1/4"x1/2" x 9

plywood

forward landing gear rail

in position

with 30

minute epoxy. Immediately proceed to

the next step before the epoxy cures.

8. From a 1/4"x3/8"x24"basswood stick,

cut a piece that is 1-1/2" long. Glue this

landing

gear rail brace

to rib doubler W5R and the

bottom of the forward landing gear rail with 30

minute epoxy.

Test fit your retract unit with only the strut

but not the wheel.

necessary, enlarge the

clearance holes in the ribs and doublers

the air

cylinder and the strut do not interfere with the ribs.

10. Cut along the line you started earlier on

rib W3 for the wheel cutout and

remove the

section of balsa for the wheel.

11.

Mount a wheel to your landing gear

strut. Place your retract unit on the landing gear

rails in the location shown on the plan (by the

way, the

oleo scissors

face

forward).

Retract the

wheel by hand to check the operation and make

sure your retract is mounted in the correct location.

Now is the time toplan your installation and make sure everything fits. It will be more difficult

make corrections after the bottom

sheeting is in place.

12.

Drill holes in the rails and mount your landing gear. Use the screws included with your landing gear.

Hint:

Countersink the holes in the

landing gear for

#6x1/2"

flat head screws.

13.

Now isaconvenient time to plan your

air line routing.

you haven't already done

so,

drill or cut holesinthe ribs to guide the air lines.

5/32"brass tube sharpened at one end makes

great drillto cut holes through the ribs.

Perform

steps

14-16

you

are installing fixed

landing gear.

14.

Use 30-minute epoxy toglue the

1/2"

314"x6-3/4"

grooved hardwood

landing gear rail

in the notches of the ribs and rib doublers with the groove visible, as shown in the photo. At the same time, glue the

3/4"x3/4"x1"maple

torque block

to rib doubler W4G and the top of the landing gear

rail. The fixed landing gear rail and rib doublers

are shown on the

left

wing plan.

15.

Cut the

1/4x1/2"

plywood

flap

servo hatch forward rail

to a length of3-

1/16".

Glue it into the notches of ribsW6and

W7.

16.

After the epoxy on the landing gear has

fully cured, drill a

31/6"hole through the landing gear rail and the torque block. The center of the hole should be

3/32"from the plywood rib doubler W4G. Make sure you hold the drill perpendicular to the bottom of the landing gear rail.

17.

Optional:

From the right side of the plan cut off the two paper tube strips along the dashed lines. Roll

these strips and cut them tothe lengths needed. They are used to allow easy routing of the servo wires and their extensions. For fixed gear the tubes go from R2toR9.

For retracts they go fromR7to

R9.

For retract installation, the wires can easily be fished through the small holes in

R4, R5

and

R6.

18.

Cut three 3-

1/16"long

servo hatch cover

rails

from the

1/4"x3/8"x24"basswood stick (the same stick you used for the landing gear rail support if you are building retracts). Glue the rails in the notches of the ribs where shown on the plan.

19.

Cut three

1-1/2"

long

flap hinge blocks

from the shaped

5/8"

balsa stock. Bevel the

ends of the hinge blocks

they fit the ribs, then

glue them in the location shown on the plan.

See

the cross section

on the wing plan to be sure you

know the position of the blocks.

20.

Cut five 1"

long

aileron hinge blocks

froma1/2"x1/2"

balsa stick. Cut one

2-7/8"

long hinge block from the

5/8"x1/2"x6"balsa

stick. The long hinge block is the one closest to the

root end of the aileron and is the

base

for the

aileron control horn.

21.

Bevel the ends ofall the aileron hinge

blocks

they fit against the ribs as shown on the

plan. Bevel the

tops

of the hinge blocks that fit in

the aileron

they match the angle of the ribs.

Glue the hinge blocks in the wing and aileron.

22.

Use a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper

to sand the sheeting, spars and

so they are

flush with root rib

and tip rib

W14.

23.

Mark the locations of the aileron hinge

slots on the outer wing TE and the aileron

LE,

so you will know where to cut the hinge slots after the wing and aileron are sheeted. Mark the location of the flap hinge blocks the same way.

24.

Return to step1on page24and finish the

left wing panel.

BUILD

THE CENTER SECTION

Position the center section wing plan (which is

attached

the right wing plan) over your building

board and cover the plan with wax paper.

Use thick or mediumCAto glue two die-cut

118"

plywood

dowel rib doublers

W1D

and one

bolt plate rib doubler

to the sides of the die-

cut

118"

balsa ribs W1as shown on the plan. Pay careful attention to which sides of the ribs the doublers are glued.

Glue two sets of

1/8"

die-cut plywood

wing

bolt plates

together to make two

114"

plates.

Glue the

1/8"

die-cut plywood

leading edge

doubler

(W21)

to the die-cut

1/8"

plywood

center

leading edge

(W21A)

the

bottoms

of the

notches

align.

W21A

is narrower than

W21

so the

top and bottom edges will be offset

1/16".

Test fit the wing bolt plate in the notches of

the ribs where shown on the plans. Adjust the

notches

necessary so the bolt plates fit.

Remove the balsa from bothW1ribs between

the notches of the dowel doublers.

With a straightedge and a ballpoint pen mark

two vertical lines

1/16

ahead of and behind the

spar notches on the

outside

of both of theW1ribs,

that have only the

W1P

doublers glued to them. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut halfway through the balsa along the lines. This section of balsa will be removed to accommodate the spar joiners when it is time to join the wing.

Cut

one

11"

long piece for the

bottom center

spar

and one

9-1/4"

long piece for the

top center

-27-

spar

from a

1/4x3/8"x24

basswood stick. Pin

only the ends

of the

bottom center spar to

your building board over its location on the plan.

not stick the T-pins through the basswood spar but insert them in a crossed fashion over the spar to

hold it to your building board.

Now

for

the

fun

part.

. .

Fit the ribs onto the die-cut

1/8"

plywood

center spar web

W19.

Make sure the ribs go all

the way down in the center spar web. Deepen the

notches (in the ribs or the spar web)

necessary.

Fit the assembly onto the bottom spar.

10.

Join the die-cut

1/8"

plywood

aft center spar

W20,

the center leading edge assembly

(W21

and

W21A),

the

top spar, and the wing bolt plates to

the ribs. Make sure the ribs align with the plan.

11.

Pin small blocks of leftover balsa to the plan

next to the

ribs, aligning them over the plan, and place weights on top of the ribs and spars to hold the jig tabs to the building board. Use a small square to make sure the

ribs are vertical.

12.

Use medium or thinCAto glue all joints

excepting the top spar.

Do not use large amounts

and do not build up large fillets. This

will make it easier

join other parts to the

assembly. You will be reminded

reinforce all glue

joints later.

13.

Remove the top spar. Glue it back in place.

SHEET THE TOP CENTER SECTION

Sand the top of the leading edge, spars and

ribs

they blend together. You may remove the

center section from your building board

necessary, but pin it back down after you're done sanding.

Make sure the center section accurately

aligns with the plan.

necessary, pin two more balsa blocks to the building board near the fronts of the ribs.

Use

two

3/32

"x3

"x30

balsa sheets to make

one

forward top center section wing skin

and one

11"

aft top center section wing skin.

Sand the sheetssothey are flat and smooth.

Trim the forward skin

the aft edge aligns with the center of the top spar and the front extends past the

by approximately

1/8".

you find it necessary, wet the top of the forward top skin first, before gluing it to the center section of the wing.

You're an expert at sheeting now,

this should

easy.

Trim the aft skin sothe front edge joins the forward skin and the aft edge extends past the ends of the ribs

1/2".

Trim the ends of the aft top

skin

it extends past the

ribs by

approximately

1/16

to allow for sanding later.

Glue the aft skin tothe center section.

After the glue dries, remove the center section

from the plan. Trim, then sand the bottom spar and

the top sheeting flush with the end ribs.

not

sand off the tabs on the ends of the aft spar

W20.

They will key into ribsW2and align the outer

panels with the center section.

Remove the jig tabs and sand the bottoms of

the ribs and spars

they all blend together. Bevel

the trailing edge of the top sheeting the same way

you did for the outer panels.

1/8"

W21

1/4"

HOLES

Drill

1/4"

holes through the LEof the center

section

(W21A)

where shown on the sketch.

Slightly round one end of both

1/4"x2-1/2"

wing

dowels.

Test fit, then glue the wing dowels into the

center section with 30

minute epoxy.

10.

Reinforce all glue joints that don't look

strong.

not build up any glue fillets where the

dihedral braces will be fitted.

Beech Fact:

The T-34 evolved from the Beech

designated Model

which began as a converted A35 Bonanza. Although Walter Beech did experiment with the V

tail for military purposes, he thought that the conservative military would prefer the conventional straight tail which

what emerged for the final design.

named the

Mentor.

PREPARE THE

BOTTOM

THE

WING FOR SHEETING

you are installing retracts, build a partition

on both wing panels from leftover

3/32

balsa

seal the wing aft of the wheel well compartment. Fuelproof the nooks and crannies of the wheel well inside the wing that you will not be able to reach after the bottom sheeting is in place. You can see the partitions in the following photo.

Remember where you cut

partway

through

ribs

on both wing panels

1/16

ahead of and

behind the spar notches? Use a hobby knife or a

fine razor saw

cut the rest of the way through rib

on the right wing panel and remove the balsa

within the area you cut.

Cut away the portion of balsa on rib

between the spars on the right side of the

center

section

the same way.

Test fit the die-cut

1/16

plywood

dihedral

braces

W23

and the die-cut

1/8"

plywood

dihedral

braces

W22

in the outer wing panel. Ifnecessary chamfer the corners of the braces to accommodate small glue fillets in the wing.

Note:

Make certain you fit the braces right side up the same as the dihedral of wing.

-28-

Temporarily join the center section to the right wing panel with the dihedral braces to make sure everything fits. Make adjustments where needed

the center section fully contacts the right panel. Separate the wing sections and remove the dihedral braces.

Read the following five steps before you actually use any glue

you understand the procedure and

can gather the items

you

will need.

Mix a batch of

45-

or 30-minute epoxy.

Spread a film

epoxy in the outer wing panel everywhere it contacts the dihedral braces. Spread a film of epoxy on the

1/8"

and

1/16

ply dihedral

braces

except where they will contact the center

section

wing panel. Fit the dihedral braces into the

right wing panel.

Make certain you fit the braces

rjght side

up.

Remove excess epoxy from the parts of the

dihedral braces that will contact the

center

section.

Set the dihedral braces by

temporarily

joining the center section to the right wing panel. Clamp the dihedral braces

to the right wing panel

only.

Carefully remove the center section and wipe

away excess epoxy with a paper towel.

Insert two approximately

2"x2"

pieces of wax paper between the dihedral braces where they protrude from the right panel, then insert a piece of

1/8"

balsa between the two pieces of wax paper.

Clamp the outer

1/16

ply dihedral braces to the

inner

1/8

ply dihedral braces.

10.

Use small balsa sticks and small pieces of

paper towel to wipe away all excess epoxy

it will

not interfere with the center section when it is time

to join it to the right wing panel.

11.

After the epoxy cures, glue

the

1/16

dihedral braces.

12.

Returntostep2and glue the dihedral

braces in the left wing panel.

13.

you're installing retracts, glue leftover

3/16

1/4"

balsa to the front of the forward landing gear rail and between the rails to support the sheeting. Use a ballpoint pen or a pencil (not a felt

tip pen) to trace the outline of the landing gear onto the rails

you know where

not

apply glue when you glue on the bottom sheeting. Later, the sheeting over this area will be removed

accommodate the landing gear mounts.

-29-

14.

Cut holes and slots in the

Wl's

on the ends

of the center section

match the holes for the

servo cords and retract air lines in the

W2's

of the outer panels. Cut the holes slightly oversize just in case they don't align perfectly.

We've temporarily joined the wing panels and installed the air lines and servo cords in the right wing panel to mock

up the installation to give

you

an idea of how to route them later. If you wish, you could test your installation now to make sure your setup will work.

15.

Glue a piece of leftover

3/32

balsa to the center section sheeting aft of the spar (note the grain direction). Cut a

3/4"

hole through the sheeting at this location for the servo cords and air lines

exit the wing into the fuse.

16.Ifyou will be adding the optional lighting kit, route the wiring through the holes you drilled in the ribs. The red

light

cover

goes in the left tip, and the

green

light

cover

goes in the right tip.Ifyou have

purchased the strobe lights in addition to the Top

Flite Lighting Kit, route those wires too. Cut a hole in the center section sheeting ahead of the main

spar for the wires and connectors

exit the wing.

17. Separate the wing panels and remove the

servo cords and air lines but leave the tip light

wires in both outer wing panels.

18. Sand the bottom of the outer wing panels

with a bar sander and 150

grit sandpaper sothe spars, landing gear and servo rails blend to the shape of the ribs.

Sheet the bottomofthe

wing

panels

1.Ifyou have not already done

so,

make the forward and aft bottom wing skins the same way you made the top wing skins on page 21.

2. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the top

sheeting over ribs

W14,

andW4at the leading

and trailing edges.

3. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa

wing cradles

W14C, W9C and W4C

on the top of the wing, aligning them with the marks you made. Sand away any slivers or slight die

cutting irregularities

until the cradles match the contour of the wing.

Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa

feet

to the cradles. Apply one drop of thick or medium CA near the front and rear of each cradle and tack glue them

the top wing sheeting in their proper

locations. You only need enough glue to hold the

cradles to the wing

they won't fall off when you

turn it upside down.

Place the wing on your workbench

resting on the cradles. Trim the

stoppers

on the

cradles

the trailing edge of the bottom sheeting

aligns with the trailing edge of the top sheeting and

the front edge of the sheeting

ends

at the center of

the spar (the same way as the top sheeting).

6. Glue the aft bottom skin to the wing. Use

pins or weights to hold the skin in place until the

glue dries.

Caution:

not add too much weight

because this may bow the wing.

7. Test fit, trim, then glue the forward

outer

skin to the wing panel. Just the same as the top forward outer skin, the wood grain should be parallel to the

leading edge

of the wing panel.

8. Use the remainder of the 3/32

x 30

balsa sheet you used for the forward

inner

top skin

to make a forward inner bottom skin. Test fit, then

glue the skin to the wing panel.

After the glue dries remove any T-pins you may have used and take the weights off the wing panel. Trim all the sheeting

it is even with the tip and root ribs and the leading and trailing edges of the wing.

10.Ifyou are installing fixed landing gear, use the plans as a guide to poke holes through the wing skin with a pin until you locate the groove in the landing gear rail. Remove a strip of balsa from the groove just long enough to accept the landing gear wire. Use the

nylon straps

as a template to

mark holes in the sheeting for the #2

3/8" screws.

Drill 1/16

holes at the marks and Test fit the landing gear to the wing with the straps and screws as shown on the plan. Remove the landing gear.

Note:

The nylon straps should be inset into the

balsa skin

that they are secured to the

basswood landing rail.

11. Set the right wing panel aside and sheet the

bottom

the left wing panel the same way.

Beech

Fact:

Beech also manufactures jet aircraft

including the 400A/400T Beechjet (their

only

production turbo fan, purchased from Mitsubishi in

1986

and fitted with a new Beech interior and larger

fuel capacity); and a few turboprops including the

Model

1300

Airliner, Model

1900D

and the Model

1900C; and of course, the Model 2000/2000A

Starship

featuring a canard front wing, pusher turboprop engines and composite construction.

Perform these steps only if you are installing retracts.

CUT

OUT

THE WHEEL WELLS

Start by cutting and removing just enough sheeting to mount the landing gear to the rails.

2. Retract the gear to the wing and draw a

rough outline of the wheel onto the sheeting. Cut

the sheeting within the outline. Retract the wheel

again and draw a more accurate outline. Cut the sheeting until the wheel fully retracts into the

wheel well, leaving at least

clearance

between the wheel and the sheeting (in case you

tweak

your landing gear on oneofthose

bumpy landings).

BUILD THE WING TIPS

Cut the molded clear plastic

right wing tip

lens

along the cutlines. If you are installing the

optional lighting kit, drill holes in the die

cut

balsa

tip lens rib

for the lighting wires to

pass through.

Align with

the edges of the

lens are flush with the wing sheeting. Glue

W14 in this position.

Top of wing

Glue the die-cut 1/8 balsa

aft lens rib

WT1 to the aft edge of WT14 Position the 1 1/2"

21/8x

balsa wing tip block on the wing tip and

trace the outline of the wing onto the block.

4. Read the note below and roughly carve the wing tip block to fit the wing tip. Glue it to the wing tip and sand it to the final shape. When you near the final shape

the tip block, tape the tip lens to

the wing tip and shape the tip block to match the

lens. To avoid scratching the lens with your sandpaper, cover it with masking tape.

Bottom

curved

Note:

The

trailing edge

of the tip block isthe same width as the trailing edge of the wing and does not taper. This means that the shape

the

tip block

changes

from the TE where it is

flat

where it is

curved.

This gives the wing tip a

concave appearance.

Proceed slowly

and inspect

your work frequently as you

zero-in

on the

final shape.

Shape the leading edgeofthe wing as shown on the cross section on the wing plan and blend it to the wing tip lens.

Perform this step only if

tip lighting.

you are installing wing

Use the templates

make the

reflector bracket

balsa. Drill a small hole th braces that hold the lenses they

snap

in. Do not fit the paint the pieces. Glue the as shown on the plan. Paini wing tip lens to match the color chosen. On our prototype we white. Tape the wing tip lens the lights while you work on t

on the wing plan to

from leftover 1/16

rough the part

the

in your lighting kit

lenses until after you

brackets

the wing tip

everything inside the

scheme you have

painted the insides

to the wing to protect

he rest of the wing.

Returntostep1on page 31and build the

wing tip on the left wing panel plan.

BUILD

THE

FLAPS

Skip this section if you are not building flaps.

1. Use a fine razor saw to cut only the

ends

the flap from the wing along the holes you poked

in the top sheeting.

REMOVE

Useaballpoint pen tolightly mark the flap

on the bottom of the wing as shown in the sketch.

Remove the 3/8 strip of sheeting from the bottom.

This will expose the ribs

you know where to cut

them to separate the flap from the wing.

CUT THE TOP SHEETING

IN THIS AREA

Use a razor saw to cut through the ribs and

top sheeting as shown in the sketch.

FLAP SPAR

BOTTOM SHEETING

TOP

SHEETING

D4.

Trim the TE of the wing in the flap area and

the

of the flap as shown in the sketch.

dowel wrapped with 150-grit sandpaper can be used to round

out

the rib stubs.

Cut a hole in the inner wingTEfor the flap horn at the location shown on the plan. The hole should be

biased

toward the top of the wing.

6. Place the flap over the plan and mark the

location of the die

cut 1/16"ply

flap horn.

Fit but

do not glue the flap horn into the flap.

Note:

Each

flap has a different location for the flap horn

make sure you use the correct wing plan for the flap you are working on.

Cut the 5/8"x1-318"

18"

balsa

flap

into two pieces that fit on both sides of the flap horn. Cut a 1/16

notch in the longer LE to

accommodate the flap horn. Glue the LE to the flap

the top edge is flush with the top of the flap.

Remove the flap horn.

Temporarily tack

glue

the short flap LEtothe flap with

a few drops

of thick or medium CA. Sand the ends of the flap

they are even with the ends of the flap. Sand the top and bottom of the flap LE flush with the top and bottom of the flap.

Cut the flap

root and tip end templates

from the plan. Glue them to the ends of the flap with rubber cement or spray adhesive. Use the templates as a guide

shape the flap LE with a razor plane or a hobby carving knife followed by a bar sander.

10. Drill a 1/16"hole through the punch mark in the front of the flap horn for the clevis. Add a few drops of thin CA to the hole. After the CA hardens redrill the hole. Remove the flap LE you tack glued on. Insert the flap horn into the flap and securely glue it in place. Permanently glue the flap LE to the flap.

-33-

11.

Assemble the die-cut 1/8" plywood

flap

hinge drill guides

by gluing the pieces together as

shown.

Optional:

Glue a piece of 7/32"brass

tubing (3/16"

I.D.)

to the hinge drill guides to guide

your drill even better.

---

12. Position the

wing

flap hinge drill guide on the wing over each hinge block (you marked them before you sheeted the bottom of the wing) and drill 3/16

holes for the Hinge Points.

Hint:

Instead of

using a drill bit, use a piece of 3/16

brass tube sharpened at one end to drill holes with clean edges.

13. Insert three #309 Robart Super Hinge

Points into the holes in the wing but do not glue

them in. Fit the flap to the wing and mark the

locations of the hinge points on the flap.

14. Use the

flap

hinge drill guide to drill holes

in the flap the same way you did for the wing.

15.

Cut 1/4" off the end of the outermost hinge point that fits into the flap. Test fit the flaps to the wing with the hinge points. Adjust the position (depth) of the hinges until the flap aligns with the

wing the same way it was before you cut it loose.

Make adjustments until the flap fits the wing and freely moves about its range of motion. Strive for a good fit where the top of the flap meets the top of the wing.

16. Return to step 1 page 32 and mount the

other flap to the wing the same way.

BUILD THE AILERONS

1. If you have built flaps remove them from the right wing panel. Use a razor saw to separate the aileron from the wing by cutting between the LE

of the aileron and the TE of the wing. Refer to the plans to find the location of this gap and poke a pin through the sheeting to verify you have found the gap. Use the razor saw to cut the ends of the

aileron from the wing along the holes you poked in

the top sheeting.

2. Sand the sheeting and the rib stubs on the

wing even with the

TE.

Glue a piece of leftover 3/32" balsa to the wing tip rib. Sand it to the shape of the wing.

3. Sand the sheeting and the rib stubs on the

aileron even with the LE and the tips. Glue the die

cut

1/8"

balsa

aileron leading edge

(W17A)

to the front of the aileron. Sand the leading edge flush with the ends and top and bottom of the aileron sheeting.

4. Use the Straightedge and T

pin technique

to mark a centerline on the wing TE and the aileron

LE. Cut the hinge slots where shown on the plan. Test fit the aileron to the wing with the hinges. Adjust any hinge slots

necessarysothe aileron

and wing align. Sand the tip of the aileron

there is about a 1 /16" gap between the end of the aileron and the wing tip.

Bevel the leading edge of the aileron to a "Vusing the centerline as a guide. The bevel must permit the full amount of aileron throw as specified on page 68, plus a bit extra to prevent servo binding.

6. Replace the flap onto the wing. Adjust the

root of the aileron and the tip of the flap

there is

approximately a 3/32" gap between them.

Return to the first step and build the aileron

on the left wing panel the same way.

MOUNT THE FLAP AND AILERON

SERVOS

1. Cut the openings in the bottom of the wing

sheeting for the die

cut

1/16

plywood

aileron and

flap servo hatch covers

(if

you're building flaps). Start by cutting a smaller opening at the location indicated on the plan. Carefully enlarge the hatch openings using a fresh #11 blade and a straightedge until the hatch covers fit.

Hint:

you

zero-in on the final shape of the hatch openings,

use the hatch covers themselves as a template to cut the openings.

2. Drill 1/16" holes through the punch marks in the servo hatch covers. Place the hatch covers on the rails in the hatches and drill 1/16" holes through the hatch covers into the rails.

Enlarge the holes i n the hatch covers

only with a

3/32

drill bit. Countersink the holes for

the

x 3 / 8 flat head screws with a countersink or other pointed tool. Test fit the hatch covers to the rails with the screws.

necessary, remove the hatch covers and sand the sides of the hatch covers

they align with the edges of the hatch.

Note: Though the hatch covers are

1/16

thick and

the wing sheeting is 3/32

thick, by the time you sand the wing sheeting smooth it will be the same height as the hatch covers.

not, you can raise the

hatch covers by placing thin shims made from

1/64plywood or thin cardstock on top of the rails.

4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 5/16

3/4"x7/8" servo mount blocks to the servo hatch covers as shown on the plan.

Note: You can increase the strength of this joint by drilling a few shallow 1/16

holes into the servo

mount blocks. This will create epoxy pins that

extend into the blocks.

Mount

your

servos to the blocks with

'k,,u

screws included with your servos. Test fit the servo

hatches in the wing and screw them down with the hatch cover screws.

6. Returntothe first step and mount the flap and

aileron servos in the other wing panel.

7. Glue leftover 1/16"balsa sheeting to the

inside of the bottom sheeting around the wheel well cutout with the grain direction opposite that of the wing sheeting. This will reinforce the sheeting

around the wheel well cutout.

8. Brush another coat of fuelproof paint inside the wheel wells while they are still easy to reach with a paint brush.

JOIN THE WING PANELS

Remove the flaps. Test fit both outer panels to

the center section. Make small adjustments

necessary to minimize any gaps you see. Test

fit

your clamps to make sure you have enough of them and to make sure you know where you are going to place the clamps when you actually glue the wing together.

3-9/16

BALSA

STICKS

2. Optional: The dihedral braces and the preset angle of the root ribs on the outer panels will determine the dihedral in the wing. But

you wish to check the dihedral before you permanently glue the wings together, clamp the wing together, raise

the center section off your workbench with balsa sticks of equal size

(so

the wing is not resting on the clamps) and measure the height of both wing tips. The height of

both

tips (measured under the

bottom of the spar at tip rib W14) should be 3

9/16

" (not including the balsa sticks).Ifthe measured dihedral of both wing tips is within a range of 3-3/8" to 3-3/4", the dihedral is okay.

3. Mix a batch of 45 or 30-minute epoxytojoin the wing panels to the center section. Apply epoxy to all the mating surfaces of the end ribs, spars and dihedral braces.

you have installed the wires for the wing tip lighting, pull the wires through the root ribs

you can route them into the center section. Join the outer panels to the center section and position your clamps. Wipe away excess epoxy with a paper towel before it cures and do not disturb the wing until the epoxy cures.

MAKE THE FLAP AND AILERON

PUSHRODS

Cut a 1/8" deep notch in the aileron for the

die

cut 1/8" plywood aileron

horn

mounting

plate where shown on the plan. Glue the horn mounting plate to the aileron and sand it to match the leading edge.

2. Make the aileron pushrods from a

.074" x

threaded end rod

with a

nylon clevis

and

solder clevis.

We recommend silver solder

for the solder clevis. Drill 1/16

holes in the aileron horn mounting plate and add a few drops of thin CA to the holes and allow to harden. Mount a

control horn

to the aileron with two #2x3/8"

screws and hook up the servo with the pushrod.

3. Thread another nylon clevis onto the end of

another

.074

4"threaded end rod. Bend and cut the wire to the length shown on the wing plan for the

right

flap pushrod. Enlarge the holes in your

flap servo arms with a hobby knife (or a #48 drill for

perfection) and connect the flap pushrod to the servo arm using a nylon

FasLink".

Rotate the flap

servo arm to the

down

position and set the flap hatch cover (with the flap servo and pushrod connected) over the flap hatch and guide the pushrod out of the hole in the TE.

4. Temporarily connect the clevis to the flap

horn to see

the pushrod is approximately the

correct length.

5. Connect the other aileron and flap pushrod the same way. Make final adjustments to the lengths of the pushrods when you set up your radio.

This is as far as we cangowith the wing until it is fitted to the fuse. But first, we need a fuse,

so..

build the

fuse!

BUILD

THE

FUSELAGE

PREPARATION

Note:

The die-cut 1/8" plywood formers are

stamped with only the necessaly portion of their

name. For example,

F-2B

is stamped

28.

All

die

cut parts are 1/8" plywood unless they are

otherwise noted.

1. Position the bottom view of the fuselage plan

over your flat building board. Cover it with wax paper. You may cut the bottom view from the rest of the plan.

Use 30-minute epoxy to glue two die-cut 1/8"

plywood

FlB's

together and

F1T

to the front of

F1DT

(there are two F1

DT's

included in the kit but

only one is used). Clamp the assemblies

a flat

table or board or lay weights on them with wax

paper underneath. Inspect the parts closely before the epoxy cures to make sure they remain aligned. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures. From

now on the F1B assembly will be referred to as the

firewall.

3. Drill 1/16"holes through the punch marks in

F2D

andF2that are closest to the bottom of the formers. Glue F2D to the front of F2 with the holes aligned. After the glue dries, drill 5/16

holes

through the punch marks.

you do not have a

5/16

drill bit you can start with a 1/4" hole and

enlarge it to approximately 5/16

with a hobby knife

or a round wood file. These holes do not have to be

exactly

5/16"or perfectly round.

4.Ifyou're installing retracts, drill 1/8" holes

through the punch marks in the bottom of

for the

air tank dowels and through the punch marks in F2

for the pull/pull nose steering cable guide tubes.

5. Drill 3/16"holes through the punch marks in

the die

cut 1/8" plywood formers F6through

Fll.

When you drill the holes press down on each former to prevent the wood from splitting when the drill bit goes through.

TYPICAL HOLES AND SLOTS

FOR

AIR TUBES AND WIRES

SLOT

FOR

SERVO WIRES

1/8"

AIR

TUBE HOLE

6.Ifyou plan to install the Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Interior Kit drill holes and cut slots in the formers for routing the air lines and servo wires between the fuse sides and the cockpit interior in formers F3, F4 and F5.

Beechcraft Bonanza User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual