barbas PANOLUX 65, PANOLUX 52 Directions For Use And Instructions For Installation

DIRECTIONS FOR USE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
PANOLUX
52 / 65
NAME OUTPUT DESCRIPTION
Panolux 52 6.0 kW Fitted • replace
Panolux 65 8.0 kW Fitted • replace
EN - 13229
PANOLUX 65PANOLUX 52
Page
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Introduction
1.1 Preface........................................................................
1.2 Safety..........................................................................
2. Location..............................................................................
3. Installation instructions.........................................................
4. Operation of the ! tted ! replace...............................................
5. Stoking up for the ! rst time...................................................
6. Use
6.1 Ventilation....................................................................
6.2 Getting the ! re going.....................................................
6.3 While stoking...............................................................
6.4 Heating economically....................................................
7. General hints
7.1 Tips.............................................................................
7.2 Output.........................................................................
8. Fuel....................................................................................
9. Amount of fuel............................................................ .........
10. Regular maintenance............................................................
11. Replacement parts...............................................................
12. Technical parts....................................................................
13. Frequently asked questions..................................................
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PANOLUX 65PANOLUX 52
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1. PREFACE
We would like to congratulate you on your purchase of this modern BARBAS
• tted • replace. This quality product will give you years of heating pleasure as you enjoy the play of the • ames and the cosy glow of the • re. This manual contains directions for both positioning the appliance and for its environmentally-friendly use. It also contains technical data for the appliance, parts information and directions in the event of problems. Study this manual carefully before using the • tted • replace. We recommend you keep this manual in a safe place for reference purposes.
1.2. SAFETY AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Safety
Ÿ Do not place • ammable objects within 80 cm of the appliance. Pay special
attention to furnishings and ornaments around the • re.
Ÿ When you use your • tted • replace, the exterior will become hot. Always
wear the glove or use the accessories supplied when • lling etc. Protect
yourself and others (especially children!) from burns. Do not leave children unattended when the • re is burning.
Ÿ Watch your clothing. Synthetic clothing in particular can easily catch • re and
burn intensely.
Ÿ Do not approach the appliance with • ammable materials or liquids. Any work
with solvents, adhesives etc. in the space heated by the • tted • replace can be very dangerous.
Ÿ Make sure you know what state your chimney is in. Cracks in the chimney
may not only lead to damp, staining of walls and leaking of smoke, they can also impair the carrying off of smoke. Make sure you get proper advice from your Barbas dealer or other specialist company.
PANOLUX 65PANOLUX 52
Ÿ Avoid chimney • res! Have your chimney swept at least once per year -
more often if you use your • re a lot. Prevent excessive deposits of soot inside the chimney by not burning freshly-cut wood. Instead, burn clean, dry chopped wood.
Ÿ Do not use your stove as a barbecue. This can cause (" ammable) fat
deposits to be left in the chimney and hastens the chimney becoming clogged. Prevent your chimney being soiled from above (birds’ nests etc.) by
• tting a suitable cap to the chimney pot.
Ÿ In case more than one stove is connected to a chimney, as is often the case
in Germany, the stove has self-closing doors (Bauart 1).
Ÿ Follow the instructions issued by your local • re brigade. The stove can be taken in operation if national and local regulations are
satis• ed. The required constructive adaptations should be satis• ed as well.
Installation instructions
Ÿ Wood and wood briquettes may be stoked in the stove. If you use wood and wood briquettes as fuel, do not initially add primary air.
Ÿ Never use the heater to burn rubbish.
Ÿ Please read all instructions/stickers on and around the appliance.
The information is based on practical experience.
Ÿ Please also study the directions for use before using the appliance for the
• rst time. When you • rst • re up your appliance, there are a number of extra points you should take into account. See section 5.
Ÿ In transit, some parts of the appliance may have moved from their original
place. Check that the door opens and closes, the brake plate is • tted correctly to the brackets at the top of the • re, the cast-iron • ns are • xed to the walls and the stones on the bottom have not moved. Check that the ridling grill is in the correct position and slides properly. Check that there is nothing in the ash drawer that should not be there.
PANOLUX 65PANOLUX 52
Ÿ Prevent over-• ring (white glow) by charging up the • re with primary air
(through the grid) over an extended period. Cast-iron components (grid, • re cladding) may become overheated and be damaged as a consequence.
Fire the stove slowly when the stove is new and new cast iron has been
applied.
Ÿ The appliance may only be set up if the appliance and location meets the
- national and local installation regulations;
- local • re brigade regulations and required architectural provisions.
PANOLUX 65PANOLUX 52
2. LOCATION
2.1. INCLUDED
N.B. If any part is missing, please contact your dealer.
2.2. PREPARATION FOR POSITIONING
Check all functions of the ! replace before ! tting.
Barbas can provide scale drawings for ! tting a ! replace for each of the models it produces. Never work on the basis of other information such as folders etc.
Have the suitability of the area in which the ! re is to be ! tted (and the chimney) approved by a specialist. The space into which the ! re is to be ! tted must in no way be damaged. The ! re must have its own chimney, constructed in compliance with current legislation.
Documentation Warranty Manual
In the ash drawer Handle
Attributes Glove Poker
PANOLUX 65PANOLUX 52
3. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
3.1. FITTING THE FIREPLACE
When • tting one of these • tted • res local and/or national regulations relating to • re safety must be followed. In case of doubt, consult the • re safety department of the local • re brigade, particularly if the stove is to be • tted in a home with walls and/or
• oors containing • ammable material.
If the chimney serves more than one • tted • re, the door must be self-closing (pursuant to Bauart 1).
3.2. CHIMNEY
If no chimney is immediately available, have one • tted by a recognised specialist only. The chimney must be compliant with local regulations and is particularly important because it has a signi• cant bearing on the function of the appliance.
Basic rules:
Ÿ A chimney for an open • re is not, by de• nition, suitable for a closable model (i.e. an appliance with doors). As a closed appliance draws in much less (cold)
air, the smoke is hotter. Please have your chimney inspected to see whether it
is suitable for a closable appliance.
Ÿ The chimney opening must be at least 5 metres above the top of the door
opening of your appliance.
Ÿ The chimney must protrude at least 40 cm above the apex of a sloping roof and
at least 1 metre above a • at roof. In short, it must not be under tension. Contact your local chimney sweep for the exact dimensions of the chimney opening.
Ÿ The internal diameter must not be less than that of the appliance at any point
(even at the end of the pipe).
Ÿ Avoid kinks at all costs. The maximum deviation from the perpendicular is 45°.
Ÿ Both the dimensions and the construction must meet stringent construction
standards. Your recognised specialist will be pleased to assist.
Ÿ Contact your • re insurer to make sure that your policy is in order.
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3.3. FITTING
A • tted • replace can be • tted in the newly-built or existing chimney breast of an open • re. When • tting, both • re safety and operational safety must be safeguarded. The • tter is responsible for this.
General guidelines:
Ÿ If there is a wooden beam above the • tting location, heat must not radiate
directly onto it. An insulation plate must be hung below the beam, leaving an air gap between it and the beam of at least 1 cm.
Ÿ Always use (white) unbound glass or ceramic wool. Bound material (yellow)
spreads an irritating smell on heating, causes excess smoke and is unsuitable for high temperatures (insulation requirements: temperature 700°C, density 80 kg/m3).
Ÿ If electrical connections are to be • tted for an extractor fan, have this done by
an expert.
Ÿ Before • tting, remove the door to protect the glass.
3.3.1. Aeration / ventilation
A • tted • re generates : - heating air and
- combustion air
Heating air is devoted to the convection of heat from the appliance to the room. No other provisions are necessary. The source of heat is in the room and stays there.
Combustion air is needed to keep the combustion going by drawing in air from the room due to the natural pull of the chimney. The air inlet openings are in the ash drawer and above the door. When using the appliance, please ensure there is a suf• cient supply of fresh air. In today’s super-insulated homes, it is important that adequate ventilation is provided. In homes with mechanical ventilation or where a kitchen extractor fan is in operation, they must be set at the lowest level or switched off respectively. If the mechanical ventilation remains operative, extra ventilation must be provided to compensate for the extraction. This not only prevents poor combustion, it also prevents smoke from being sucked out of the appliance into the room. (See also Chapter 6)
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3.3.2. Fitting in an existing chimney breast
Ÿ Remove the existing • re basket or stoking stones and remove the shut-off
• ap. The chimney must be intact and must not be damaged during • tting. The chimney breast opening must be big enough for a gap of 1 - 3 cm to be left all round the appliance. Clad the chimney breast opening from the inside with a ceramic wool • reblanket or similar (see section 3.3).
Ÿ Extend the existing chimney so that it ends at the appliance’s smoke outlet. To
do this, use a • exible, double-walled stainless steel chimney, for example.
Ÿ Slide the appliance into the chimney breast opening. Seal the smoke outlet
where it joins the chimney so that no soot can accumulate above the appliance under any circumstances.
Ÿ Level off the appliance so that the front of the ash drawer does not catch on the
base (if • tted).
Ÿ Fill any gaps around the appliance with a ceramic wool • reblanket or similar
and • t the supplied edging (frame). To insulate, use ceramic wool.
3.3.3. Fitting in a newly-built chimney breast
Ÿ Clad the appliance on the top, sides and rear up to the front edge with
an approx. 10 cm thick ceramic wool • reblanket or similar. Leave a few centimetres clearance between the front of the chimney breast and the appliance.
Ÿ Level off the appliance. Check that the slides do not catch on the base (if
• tted).
Ÿ Make a good seal between the smoke outlet from the appliance to the chimney.
Close up the front (the appliance has its own inlets for convection air).
Ÿ If the • re is to be placed against a bearing wall or against a wall containing
• ammable material, an air gap of at least 20 mm should • rst be built. Behind it a false wall, 100 mm thick, must be built of masonry or aerated concrete.
Ÿ If the • re is not placed against a bearing wall or a wall containing • ammable
material, no false wall is necessary. Layers of insulation of at least 100-mm thickness will then be suf• cient (class A, DIN 4102-compliant). See also section
3.3.
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3.4. HEAT TRANSFER WITH BUILT-IN FANS
The heat transfer can be ampli• ed by transporting the heat with fans. With this system, hot air is blown into the room. The fans only cut in at the point that the • re is up to temperature (> 45°C). The 42 V fans are protected against overheating.
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4. OPERATION OF THE FITTED FIREPLACE
1 Smoke outlet 7 Convection air-supply slide 2 Convection air escape opening 8 Wood rack 3 Ceramic heat-proof glass 9 Ridling grill handle 4 Handle 10 Primary air-supply slide 5 Secondary air-supply slide 11 Temperature switch holder 6 Ash drawer 12 Cast-iron • ns/inner lining
Figure 1: Operation
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5. STOKING UP FOR THE FIRST TIME
If you have had your chimney breast modi• ed or newly built, • rst allow your home to dry properly. Walls which have not been allowed to dry properly are a magnet for dust such as any smoke particles created when stoking up the • tted • re or suddenly opening the door. Even scorched dust can easily be retained by damp walls. Think also of dust on the outside of the appliance or on hot radiators etc.
Check that all packaging, stickers etc. and/or all dust and waste has been cleaned up after the installation work (to avoid it getting scorched/causing a bad smell).
Check again that all moving parts are in order and that loose parts such as the brake plate, • ns, ridling grill etc. are in the correct position. They may have moved during installation.
The • tted • re has a heat-proof • nish. It only hardens at high temperatures. When unpacked, it is therefore not fully hardened. It can easily be damaged at this time. Begin stoking up the • tted • re with a low • ame (see section 6). Increase the heat gradually for approx. 2 hours until you reach the correct output. Keep it at this level for another 2 - 3 hours. The • nish will now be properly hardened and can be touched without damaging. The hardening process creates a nasty, though harmless, smell/vapour.
Adequate ventilation is of the utmost importance.
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6. USE
6.1. VENTILATION
Air is a vital component of the combustion process. Ensure that there is a suf• cient supply of fresh air. For each kilo of wood that you put on the • re (door closed), 10 - 15 m3 of extra air is needed. That means 50 m
3
per hour! As you
can see, a plentiful supply of air is essential.
6.2. GETTING THE FIRE GOING (Figure 1)
When you start the • re, the chimney is still cold and there is little draught. This means that the chimney’s capacity to draw in air is limited. Consequently the air supply has to be helped by opening the door, slides and ash drawer. Use dry,
• ne wood and some scrunched-up paper or • relighters to start the • re.
Leave the door(s) ajar for 10 minutes. Do not open the door wide, as the window will remain cold. If the door is shut during this time, smoke will condense on the glass and form soot. To admit more air from the top of the • re: open the secondary air " ow slide to its full extent.
Prevent white glow and over-fi ring.
6.3. INSTRUCTIONS WHILE STOKING
After approx. 10 minutes, the • re will be burning • ercely. You can now top it up with a few larger blocks of wood. Close the door(s) when the new wood catches
• re.
After another 10 minutes, close the ash drawer .
If the • re is still burning well, close the ridling grill and the primary air supply slide Š. The • re can now be controlled with the secondary air " ow slides .
N.B. The primary air supply slide Š should be kept closed except during the lighting procedure. Your • re will then be much cleaner and more ef• cient (more heat, less topping up).
We recommend that you maintain a substantial layer of ash (2 - 3 cm). This not only forms a protective layer for the base of the appliance but also signi• cantly reduces consumption of fuel and allows new wood to catch light easier.
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When loading the stove with fuel, two blocks measuring 32 cm long and 32 cm in diameter is suf• cient. Do not add more fuel until the previous fuel has burned down to the charcoal stage. Do not leave the door open longer than necessary.
Weather conditions
In order to reduce pollution and any other inconvenience, we advise not • ring up the stove when there is no wind, or in foggy/misty conditions.
Smoke development
Your stove has been designed to be used with the load/observation door closed. Should you use it with the door open, under certain circumstances (presence of mechanical ventilation, draught, differences in barometric pressure) smoke may enter the room in which stove is situated.
Use of the stove
Your stove is suitable for continuous use. Stoves in which soap stone is used to give off heat will only do so (by radiation/convection) once the stones have accumulated suf• cient heat. It is therefore inef• cient to use such a stove for a short period of time.
The stove may only be positioned in a place where the location, construction and activity in the room can accommodate it without danger.
Ventilation
When using the stove, ensure a good supply of fresh air, particularly if the combustion air is drawn from the room itself. If your dwelling has mechanical ventilation, switch it off while the stove is in use.
Spare parts
Any replacement parts must be new, original parts. Use of non-original/ reconditioned parts will invalidate your warranty.
Modifi cation
Do not make modi• cations to your stove. Any alteration to your stove, of whatever nature, will also invalidate your warranty.
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6.4 HEATING ECONOMICALLY
The most environmentally-friendly and economic way of heating with wood is to have your • re hot but calm. The ash should appear to glow a soft red-orange and should not glow like a blacksmith’s • re. Fires like that burn quickly and intensely, leaving little time for complete combustion.
Your • re is at its most economical when:
Ÿ Burning with the door closed. This makes the • re hotter and improves
combustion.
Ÿ Using dry and clean wood (as described further in section 8).
Ÿ Combustion is regular. When burning, shut the ridling grill and primary air
supply.
Ÿ The bed of the • re should be composed of one material, though the • re
must have easy access to air. Position the blocks of wood (loosely and evenly) horizontally on the bed of ash, so that they are separate and several centimetres away from the walls.
Stoking up the fi re when the primary air slide is open and the fi re is
blazing will have the effect of making the fi re rage in white heat,
which can cause damage to the grate and other cast-iron parts of the
stove.
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7. GENERAL HINTS
7.1. TIPS
Ÿ Burn dry wood only. Damp wood not only burns poorly, it causes more
pollution in the appliance (window), the chimney, your room (when opening the door of the appliance, for instance) and the environment. Wood can only be classi• ed as dry if it has been stored under a Dutch barn for at least two years (not covered with plastic). Never use painted or impregnated wood. The gases emitted when burning painted or impregnated wood are aggressive and will affect the appliance, the environment and your health.
Ÿ Ensure that your • re burns well. The smoke generated should be translucent
or white and the windows of the • re will remain clean. We recommend that you do not ‘pinch off’ your • re (by closing all air openings). Doing so will hinder combustion which, apart from polluting the atmosphere, will lead to deposits of soot and tar in your chimney (which, unchecked, will increase the risk of chimney • re).
Ÿ Keep the door(s) shut when the • re is burning. Doing so improves the
performance of your • re 8 - 10 times, bene• ting the environment and the heat in your home (less topping up, see section 7.2). You will also prevent • re damage from any particles the • re ‘spits’ out (this is a particular problem with
softwood from conifers). If your ! oor contains ! ammable material, an extra ! oor plate is required.
Ÿ Avoid lighting a • re in misty or still conditions. If the wind is still, there is hardly
any draught in the cold chimney. As smoke is heavier than air, there is a chance that smoke will enter the room. If there is mist in the air, smoke coming out of your chimney will cool quickly and fall, causing problems in your area.
Ÿ Do not extinguish your • re with water - let it burn out. The part of the inner
lining that is in direct contact with the • re is clad with cast iron sections or • re­resistant material. Sudden changes in temperature may lead to it deforming or cracks appearing.
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7.2. OUTPUT
In practice, combustion is all about loss. This entails:
Ÿ Loss through excess heat leaving the chimney, rather than going into the room.
Ÿ Loss through insuf! cient combustion, such as CO (carbon monoxide) and soot
particles.
Ÿ Loss through excessive unburnt fuel in the ash.
The rate at which fuel can burn completely is called the output. A well-stoked ! re achieves output of 75% and thus falls into the category of high-output/low emissions ! res. This means that you bene! t directly by using less wood to achieve the same level of heat. The environment bene! ts as well: a well-stoked, high­output appliance means less pollution and fewer odours.
Adverse effects on the output are:
Ÿ Burning the ! re with the door open. A warm chimney works in the same way as
an extractor. When the door is open, the chimney draws in much more air than is necessary for combustion. This relatively cool air cools down the ! re.
Ÿ Excessive chimney draught. The combustion air does not reach the fuel, but
leaves the appliance via the chimney. The ! re cools and the combustion quality decreases.
Ÿ Using too much wood. This is a problem if your ! tted ! re is too small. In that
case, it becomes overloaded and burns more wood than heat emitted. In this case too the fuel cannot burn completely. More to the point, there is not enough air to mix with the " ames. This has an extra impact on the environment.
Ÿ Admitting too much air under the fuel (primary air slides). Combustion is raised
to high intensity (like a blacksmith’s ! re). Combustion really needs time. If combustion is too intense, there is insuf! cient time for the ! re to radiate all the heat. The chimney will become excessively hot and the same will be true of the escaping smoke. This heat is thus lost.
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8. FUELS
8.1. WOOD
Suitable fuels are:
Ÿ All sorts of clean wood (forested). The wood must have been dried for at least
two years. Well-dried wood has a humidity percentage between 10 and 20%.
Ÿ Compressed wood blocks without binder.
Ÿ Hard woods burn slowly and easily form charcoal; for example hornbeam, oak,
ash, beech, elm and birch. Softwood burns with more ! ame, but forms less charcoal and radiates less heat. Examples are spruce, pine, poplar and linden.
Unsuitable fuels are:
Ÿ Painted, bonded (chipboard, MDF etc.) or impregnated wood, plastic and other
! ammable waste. Stoking a " re with this is completely forbidden. To re-iterate: the combustion gases released by these materials are aggressive and will attack your " tted " re and the environment.
Ÿ Paraf" n-containing open " re lighters are not suitable for a closed " re. A closed
" re generates more heat than an open " re, thus the paraf" n will melt out of the blocks prematurely.
Ÿ Damp wood burns poorly, is unsuitable and produces too much smoke
(including in the room when you are topping up the wood), dirties the glass, leaves deposits in the chimney and delivers about half the heat output of dried wood.
The Panolux is not suitable for coal " ring.
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9. AMOUNT OF FUEL
9.1. AMOUNT OF FUEL
Each appliance is constructed for a certain maximum amount of fuel. Remember that the more fuel you put into your • re, the hotter it will become and overheating may even occur. If this happens, there is a risk of • re. It may also damage your appliance and chimney. BARBAS will not assume liability for damage caused by overheating.
If you have chosen the right appliance for your room, it will provide suf• cient heat with a single layer of wood blocks (a wood block is approx. 30 cm long and 30 cm around the edges).
Burning one layer of wood can lead to varying outputs. When used correctly, one load will burn in around one hour. Putting in too much wood at once can lead to the appliance being overloaded.
You can best vary the capacity of your appliance with the amount of fuel.
Example:
The • re has an output of 10 kW and an ef• ciency of 75%:
Wood: 3 blocks, each around 1 kg Briquettes: 5 briquettes, each around 0.5 kg
Your • re has an output of 6 kW:
Wood: 2 blocks, each around 1 kg Briquettes: 3 briquettes, each around 0.5 kg
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9.2. HEAT RADIATION
The table below shows the temperatures which can theoretically be achieved by burning wood.
Heat radiation
Sort of fuel kWh/kg
Dry wood (average) 4.3
The heating value of wood (18.7 MJ/kg at 0% humidity) is not affected by the sort of wood. What does make a difference is the relative humidity of the wood (15.6 MJ/kg at 15% humidity).
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10. REGULAR MAINTENANCE
Ÿ Emptying the ash tray/container : Weekly, 48 hours after last heating
Ÿ Cleaning the glass : As required
Ÿ Door/ash drawer seals : Check annually before heating is
resumed. Replace as necessary
Ÿ Sweep and inspect chimney : Annually before heating is resumed
Ÿ Fins/Skamolex plates : Check annually
* Clean ! ns as necessary with wire
brush
* Replace plates as necessary
Ÿ Ridling grill : Check annually for cracks/breakage
Ÿ Slides/" aps : Check function annually
Ÿ Convection channels : Clean annually
Ÿ Paint : Annually, if necessary touch up with
BARBAS heat-resistant paint (do not use with open ! res)
Ÿ Parts : Individual parts for replacement/
accessories are available from your BARBAS dealer
Use only original parts
Ÿ Modi! cations : Introduced modi! cations to the
appliance are not permitted
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11. REPLACEMENT PARTS
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PANOLUX 65PANOLUX 52
Item no Description Number
1 Body 1 2 Cast-iron ! ns 7 3, 4, 5, 6 Base stones 1 7 Wood rack 1 8 Ridling grill container 1 9 Ridling grill rosette 1 10 Ridling pin 1 1 1 Ridling-pin knob 1 12 Ash drawer 1 13 Ash drawer knob 1 14 Ash drawer cord 1 15 Ash drawer cover 1 16 Brass emblem 1 17 Air slide button (above) 4 18 Cover right 1 19 Decorative knob 1 20 Cover left 1 21 Glass left 1 22, 28 Brass handle (l + r) 1 23 Model K glass springs 4 24 Door - glass cord 1 25 Glass right 1 26 Lock cover plate 1 27 Spagnolet lock 1 29 Door - body cord 1 30, 31, 32 Brake plate set 1 30 Brake plate 1 31 Brake plate " ap 1 32 Flap control bar 1 33 Brake plate locking pin 1
PANOLUX 52
Replacement parts
When ordering, please give the serial number
(see stamped number above ash drawer – front of this manual)
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Item no Description Number
1 Body 1 2 Cast-iron ! ns 8 3, 4, 5 Base stones 1 6 Wood rack 1 7 Ridling grill container 1 8 Ridling grill rosette 1 9 Ridling pin 1 10 Ridling-pin knob 1 1 1 Ash drawer 1 12 Ash drawer knob 1 13 Ash drawer cord 1 14 Brass emblem 1 15 Ash drawer cover 1 16 Air slide button (above) 4 17 Cover right 1 18 Decorative knob 1 19 Cover left 1 20 Glass left 1 21, 27 Brass handle (l + r) 1 22 Door - glass cord 1 23 Model K glass springs 4 24 Glass right 1 25 Lock cover plate 1 26 Spagnolet lock 1 28 Door - body cord 1 29, 30, 31 Brake plate set 1 29 Brake plate 1 30 Brake plate " ap 1 31 Flap control bar 1 32 Brake plate locking pin 1
PANOLUX 65
Replacement parts
When ordering, please give the serial number
(see stamped number above ash drawer – front of this manual)
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12. TECHNICAL DATA
Type: PANOLUX 52
Dimensions (hxbxd) 0.59 x 0.76 x 0.46 m Weight 110 kg
Combustion:
Nominal output 6.0 kW Measured in compliance with DIN 18895 (Bauart 1-D) / EN - 13229 Smoke output 5.2 g/s (for chimney calculation) measured at a smoke temperature of 349°C and at a draught setting of 12 Pa
Inside:
Dimensions Surface area 0.135 m
2
Clear ! re opening 480 x 235 mm Fins Cast iron Base stones Fire-proof concrete Inner lining Steel (heat-resistant and rust-proof) Retardant plate (brake plate) Cast-iron plate with " ap operated by door
Outside:
Construction Sheet-steel casing Top plate suitable for adapter to Ø150 mm smoke connection Doors Double panoramic doors, hinged left and right Door hinged on right with spagnolet lock with ! xed handles
Operation: Air slide in the ash drawer for admission of air under fuel (primary air) Air slides left, right and centre above door for admission of air above fuel (secondary air)
Ash collection: Ash drawer with ridling grill
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Type: PANOLUX 65
Dimensions (hxbxd) 0.64 x 0.88 x 0.46 m Weight 131 kg
Combustion:
Nominal output 8.0 kW Measured in compliance with DIN 18895 (Bauart 1-D) / EN - 13229 Smoke output 12.1 g/s (for chimney calculation) measured at a smoke temperature of 343°C and at a draught setting of 12 Pa
Inside:
Dimensions Surface area 0.165 m
2
Clear ! re opening 620 x 275 mm Fins Cast iron Base stones Fire-proof concrete Inner lining Steel (heat-resistant and rust-proof) Retardant plate (brake plate) Cast-iron plate with " ap operated by door
Outside:
Construction Sheet-steel casing Top plate suitable for adapter to Ø180 mm smoke connection Doors Double panoramic doors, hinged left and right Door hinged on right with spagnolet lock with ! xed handles
Operation: Air slide in the ash drawer for admission of air under fuel (primary air) Air slides left, right and centre above door for admission of air above fuel (secondary air)
Ash collection: Ash drawer with ridling grill
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13. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How often should I have my chimney swept?
At least once a year. If you use your • re more than three times a week on average, have your chimney swept more often. Have the chimney swept by a recognised company. Your • re insurance policy may make this a condition and ask for proof.
In terms of stoking up the fi re, what is the difference between a stone and cast-iron lining?
Both linings serve to protect the wall of the stove against ! ames. The advantage of a cast-iron lining is that it is much stronger than a stone lining. It will not break after a few years; cast iron will not be damaged if you push in the wood into the stove any harder than usual. Cast iron radiates more heat out to the room than stone. This improves the output.
Does a fi tted fi re have better output than an open fi re?
Yes, a • tted • re has between 7 and 8 times the ef• ciency of an open • re. (See also sections 7.2 and 7.3).
What is the difference between net capacity, gross capacity and effi ciency?
Net capacity represents the net amount of heat that the appliance generates.
The total heat content of the fuel is the so called gross capacity.
Ef• ciency is the percentage of fuel converted into useful heat. It is the ratio of net capacity and gross capacity.
How can I keep the glass clean?
By making a point of using dry, clean wood in the stove. Wood that is too damp immediately gives off lots of ash.
Make sure the seals are in good working order. Any air seeping out around the glass part of the door will cool the air, resulting in the • re not burning cleanly.
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How much wood will I use?
That depends entirely on how you heat your room, what sort of appliance you have and the size of the room you are heating. As a general rule, a • re used in accordance with our guidelines (no air under the fuel, topped up once an hour) produces an output of about 3 kW.
In an averagely-insulated house, the general rule is that in a room of 80 m3, you need a • re with an output of around 7 kW. For each subsequent 10 m3, add on
0.6 kW.
In a relatively well-insulated house, the general rule is that in a room of 80 m3, an appliance of 5.5 kW is adequate, and for each subsequent 10 m3, you need to add a further 0.4 kW.
Can a wood-burning stove/fi tted fi re be connected to a central heating installation?
The Barbas range does not have any stoves/• res that can be connected to central heating installations. We do not advise attempting it!!
At what temperature does/do the convection fan(s) cut in?
Wood-burning stoves are not • tted with convection fans.
Fitted • res with a fan controlled by a built-in dimmer have no automatic temperature control. The on/off switch is part of the dimmer.
If your • tted • re is equipped with a transformer plug and dimmer, it will also have an automatic temperature control. If the two fans are about to overheat, they will cut in when the area to the left and right of the ash drawer becomes warm. This is at approx. 45°C.
How do I know if I’m heating correctly?
Follow the instructions in this manual.
The " ames should play softly across the wood and the wood should burn evenly.
Once the • re has been burning for a short time, the smoke from the chimney should be almost translucent.
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What is wrong with a smoking chimney?
A seriously smoking chimney means that combustion is less than optimum. There may be a number of reasons for this. If the • re has only just caught on, or has recently been topped up, some smoke is normal. By opening the door(s) for a short period, the wood will catch • re quicker and the smoky period will be shorter.
If you leave the • re door open, and especially if you burn damp wood, the result will be a lot of smoke. In both cases, the combustion temperature is too low. This leaves numerous dangerous compounds intact, which means more deposits in your chimney and more waste into the environment.
What is the infl uence of soap stone on a stove?
Soap stone functions as a heat buffer. Its combination of chalky composition and sedimentary structure means that soap stone heats up more quickly than other sorts of stone and emits heat more gradually than other stone. This evens out the irregularities associated with burning wood (heat radiated is initially double; later half the average). However, this means that a soap stone • re has a longer warm­up period. However, it will continue to give off heat for longer.
The soap stones are not like the ones in the brochure. Is this right?
Soap stone is a type of stone that is found in mountain walls (it is sawn out). Depending on the place in the mountain, the structure may vary. It may be more or less porous, its structure may be wild or calm. This means that the colour and
• nish may also vary. Stone quarried in the past will thus look different to stone quarried today.
What should I do if the wood does not catch fi re?
This probably means that the wood is damp. Remove the wood and replace it with dry wood. If necessary, make a • re with wood briquettes. They are always dry (they have a moisture content of <10%).
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The wood burns up too quickly. What should I do?
Ensure that air cannot get in underneath the fuel. Close the primary air slides, ash drawer and ridling grill. Under these conditions, the layer of ash should no longer burn bright orange/white but red.
If there is a draught (due to strong wind), air intended as secondary air for above
the fuel may enter through the openings above the door and fl ow straight down beneath the wood. If this happens, close the secondary air slides slightly.
There may be too much of a draught in your chimney, particularly if it is very high (in excess of 8 m). Ask your supplier to fi t a check valve or damper. This may not be possible in all cases.
Can I leave my fi re unattended?
Only when it is burning peacefully with little wood and if the doors are closed as well as the primary air slides. Do not leave children unattended while the fi re is burning.
Do I have to take any extra measures if the room I am heating has an extractor fan?
Select a closed fi re, i.e. a fi re with completely separate combustion air inlet. The combustion air will then be drawn in from outside the appliance.
What is creosote?
Creosote is a tar-like deposit which is left in the chimney. It is formed in poor combustion conditions when burning wood (damp wood, pinching off the air supply to the fi re or burning impregnated or painted wood for example). Creosote ignites at approx. 500°C. This temperature can easily be reached if the fi re is raging. This means that deposits of creosote in your chimney could cause a chimney fi re.
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What happens when wood is burnt?
The combustion process. The combustion of wood involves the following steps.
Drying The • rst step is that the fuel (wood) dries out. Even at low temperatures (<100°C), any moisture still in the wood will evaporate. This drying procedure implies a signi• cant loss of energy if wood which is ‘too’ damp is burnt. The right degree of moisture is achieved after 1.5 - 2 years of drying. The moisture content is then 15 - 17%.
Decomposition At moderate - high temperatures (150°C - 350°C), the decomposition process can be discerned. This is when the chemical structure of the fuel breaks down. This process involves the creation of volatile compounds such as carbon monoxide (CO), water vapour (H2O) and methane (CH4). In addition, substances which are volatile at decomposition temperature but condense at lower temperatures are often released. These are the tar-like components (this by-product is also known as creosote, which is deposited in the chimney and cold parts of the • re in poor burning conditions).
Combustion of the products of decomposition The volatile compounds burn in the gas phase if O2 (air) is added. The ignition temperature of these volatile compounds is approx. 550°C.
Combustion of solid hydrocarbons The solid component that remains consists of pure hydrocarbons, which will burn at approx. 800°C if O2 (air) is added.
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02 - 010706 - 303524
INTERFOCOS B.V. HALLENSTRAAT 17 5531 AB BLADEL NEDERLAND E-mail: info@barbas.nl Internet: www.barbas.com
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