Autek Research MK-1 Instructions Manual

Contents:

1. Unpacking 6. Memory Programming Tips

2. Automatic Keyer Operation 7. In Case of Trouble

3. Memory Operation 8. Warranty & Returns to Manufacturer

4. Connection to Transmitter 9. Late Notes - Covers Points Raised by Users

5. Battery Operation 10. Schematics & Layout Drawing

INSTRUCTIONS

MK-1 Programmable Keyer

1. UNPACKING

Carefully unpack the keyer. Note that various plugs
etc. are provided for hook up to a paddle, your
transmitter, and a battery.

2. AUTOMATIC KEYER OPERATION

You must first attach a paddle to the keyer. A dual­lever (squeeze) paddle is recommended to take ad­vantage of Iambic operation, although a single lever
paddle (with dot AND dash contacts) may be used.
An old-fashioned hand key will not work, since it
has only one set of contacts.

Connect the paddle to the large "stereo" plug en­closed. The common (ground or center) paddle out­put must go to the ground lead of the stereo plug.
Dot and dash paddle outputs go to the other two
plug connections. Plug the paddle into the keyer
rear panel, and plug the keyer into a standard 115
VAC U.S. wall plug. Set controls as follows:

Volume - 7/8 rotated
Speed - 1/2 rotated
Repeat - Down
Combine C/D - Down
Record/Play - Play

WHEN POWER IS FIRST APPLIED TO THE KEYER, THE
MONITOR MAY COME ON CONTINUOUSLY OR BE
ERRATIC. THIS IS CAUSED BY AN UNCERTAIN INITIAL
STATE OF ONE FLIP-FLOP, AND IS CURED BY SEND­ING A FEW DOTS AND DASHES TO INITIALIZE THE
LOGIC.

Start sending with the paddle. Speed is adjustable
from below 10 WPM to above 50 WPM. The highest

speeds are impractical for sending, but will help
when recording (see below). Note that the speed
control is not linear; more-rapid speed change oc­curs at high speeds. Monitor tone may be adjusted
by turning the trimpot on the keyer circuit board.
(See layout drawing)

Closing the dash paddle yields a continuous string
of dashes with a space in-between, and a perfect
3:1 ratio between dash and space lengths. Similarly,
the dot paddle yields dots and spaces in a perfect
1:1 ratio.

At this point, be sure your paddle is connected with
the proper sense. When you move your hand to the
left, dashes should be produced; moving the hand
right should produce dots. Reverse the dot and
dash wires to the paddle if the opposite occurs. This
sets your keyer up in the way used by virtually all
CW operators.

DOT AND DASH MEMORIES: These memories may
be demonstrated as follows: Set the keyer to its
slowest speed. Select "Play". Quickly close first the
dash lever then the dot lever. Quickly release both
levers before the dash is over. Note that the keyer
still supplies a dot. In fact, the dot lever may be
tapped anytime during a dash or the following
space, and the keyer will supply a perfectly-spaced
dash/dot pair. The dash memory can be demon­strated analogous to the above by tapping the dot
then dash levers. These memories greatly case
sending, even though you're normally not aware
they're present.

TRIGGERED CLOCK: Note that a dot or dash starts
immediately when the dot or dash lever is tapped
(except when recording). This is due to a triggered
internal clock time base that starts immediately on
first paddle closure.

IAMBIC OPERATION: This feature may be demon­strated if you have a double-lever (squeeze) paddle.
If both paddle contacts are closed (squeezed), the
keyer puts out alternate dots and dashes, with the
first contact closed determining whether a dot or
dash occurs first. With the Iambic feature, the let­ters C, F, K, L, R, Y, and Q, as well as AR, may be sent
with fewer finger motions. For example, to send an
"F", hold the dot lever closed during the entire let­ter, but, in addition, tap the dash lever during the
second dot. (Release the dot lever after the last dot
starts) This is easier than removing your finger from
the dot paddle during the dash, and replacing it for
the last dot. For a "Q", reverse the procedure by
holding the dash paddle and tapping the dot paddle
during the second dash. The Iambic method may
take some practice if you're used to a different tech­nique, but it's worth learning. Enlist the aid of a lo­cal "advanced" CW operator to help you learn the
easiest way to send each letter. Develop good hab­its early.

If you've never used anything but a straight key, it
will take several hours to become accustomed to a
paddle keyer. Practice off the air by sending the al­phabet and concentrating on "problem" letters.

SPEED CALIBRATION: Exact speeds cannot be
printed on the panel because of normal component
tolerances. If you wish to calibrate the speed con­trol, use the formula:

Speed (WPM) = number of dashes in a 4.8 sec-

ond period

An equivalent, but easier, method is to measure the
time, T, required to readout or record ONE memory
section. (The time that the memory light stays on.)
The formula is:

3. MEMORY OPERATION

Set the controls as above. Be sure "Play" is selected.
Tap one of the message buttons (A, B, C or D). Note
that the light comes on, indicating recording or
playing of the memory. Since no message is yet pro­grammed, gibberish will be sent by the MK-1.

RECORDING: Set the speed control low. Turn the re­cord/play switch to record. Nothing will happen un­til you tap one of the message buttons. Tap one but­ton, then immediately start sending a short mes­sage. As long as the light is lit, your message is
being recorded into memory. If it goes out before
you have finished, your message is too long. After a
short message, wait until the light goes out to en­sure that old data is recorded over. Turning the
speed control to top speed momentarily after fin­ishing a short message will shorten the waiting
time.

When recording, the internal clock runs continu­ously to allow spaces of any length to be entered in­to memory. Thus, there is a random delay between
zero and the length of one dot between INITIAL lev­er closure and start of a dot or dash. This requires
you to synchronize your sending with the keyer to
some extent. At slow (10–15 WPM) speeds, dots
may even be missed occasionally. Use a hard "fist"
at slow speeds. Don't release the dot lever until a
dot starts. At higher speeds (25+ WPM), you may
not notice the difference when recording, except
that mistakes may be more frequent until you de­velop some proficiency. The clock is triggered at all
times when the memory light is out, i.e. in normal
sending.

PLAYING: BE SURE TO SET THE SWITCH TO "PLAY"
BEFORE TAPPING A BUTTON TO AVOID ERASING
WHAT YOU'VE RECORDED.
Tap the same button to playback the message. Note
that if you tap the button again while playing (or re­cording) the message will immediately start again at
the beginning. This is handy if you hit the wrong
button, or wish to repeat the first part of a mes­sage.

Speed (WPM) = 307.5/T

For example, at 20 WPM, one memory section will
hold T = 15.36 seconds of data.

TUNE: Turning the speed control full counter-clock­wise turns on your transmitter continuously for tun­ing.

At this point. record a message in each memory sec­tion.

REPEAT SWITCH: Select "repeat" and "play", and tap
one of the buttons. Note that the message will re­peat forever, including any space at the end of the
message. Stop the message at the end by switching
repeat "off", or stop it immediately by tapping the

reset button or the paddle. "Repeat" has no effect
when recording.

COMBINE C/D SWITCH: Set this switch to "com­bine". Tap the "C" button. The "C" message will play
out, including any space, followed by the "D" mes­sage. If repeat is also set, the sequence will be
"CDCD" etc. This switch operates in record also, al­lowing one continuous message (approx. 50 charac­ters) to be recorded.

EDITING: If you make a mistake while recording, tap
the same message button again and resend the
message. Or, if you make a mistake near the end,
you can save the earlier part by selecting "play" and
starting memory readout. Just before reaching the
mistake, flip the switch to "record" and complete
sending the message.

RESET: Tapping the reset button stops any recording
or playing on progress. Tapping or sending with the
paddle while playing also resets the memory and in­stantly returns the keyer to paddle control. Sending
with the paddle is very useful to add to the end of a
message or to terminate a recorded message early
& fill in the

4. CONNECTION TO TRANSMITTER

Your MK-1 will directly key all popular ham gear,
made since 1963, with the exception of some Ten­Tec gear, and, early models at least, of the FT-301D.
(See Section 9: "Late note" for 301 and Ten-Tec).
Please do not write and ask if the MK-1 will key
your rig. There is no danger of destroying anything
except with old, high power, cathode keyed rigs,
which may possibly need a relay. Determine this
yourself. Keyer output transistor ratings are: ±300
volts maximum, including any spikes, -15 ma maxi­mum for negative (grid-block) key lines. +200 ma
maximum for positive (cathode-keyed) key lines.
These are voltages measured at the KEY. (Note:
Plate current and voltage is typically much higher
than values at the key. This should cause no con­cern). If in doubt about an older, or unusual rig,
measure the voltage across the key line; then con­nect a milliameter across the key line and measure
the key current.

Both voltage and current should be within the
range above. Also, one side of the key line must be
grounded to the chassis. If these conditions are not
met, you will have to obtain a relay. Connect one
end of the relay to the MK-1 keyed output, and the
other end to a power source equal to the relay volt-

age rating, e.g. 12V or 6V. A reed relay is recom­mended for high speeds. AGAIN IT IS STRESSED
THAT OVER 99% OF RIGS IN USE DO NOT REQUIRE A
RELAY, and can utilize the benefit of silent operation
of the MK-1 output transistors.

CONNECTION: Connect the grounded end of the
MK-1 phono jack on the rear panel to the grounded
end of your transmitter key line, and the inside lead
of the phono jack to the "hot" key line. If you re­verse this connection, the MK-1 chassis will be
"hot", and this may lead to RF pickup, and intermit­tent operation.

5. BATTERY OPERATION

The rear-panel miniature phone jack accepts +9 to
+14 VDC as from battery. No power is drawn from
the battery (13 V or less) unless AC power is inter­rupted, or the MK-1 is Turned "off". When AC
power is interrupted, the MK-1 instantly transfers
to any battery connected to the rear panel. Current
drain is typically 40 to 60 ma. at 9 volts, or 75–95
ma. at 12 volts. (Low monitor volume.)

A 9 V common "transistor radio" battery is not re­commended for continuous battery operation,
since this type of battery will run down severely in a
few hours. However, this type of battery is sufficient
to prevent loss of recorded messages caused by oc­casional AC power dropouts; e.g. as might occur in
Field Day or other portable AC operation. For CON­TINUOUS battery operation, a larger, 12 volts,
power pack, such as eight 1.5 V "C" batteries in ser­ies, is recommended.

Where 220 VAC is the only power source, obtain an
inexpensive 9–12 V battery eliminator locally. This is
the easiest way to power the MK-1 from 220 VAC.

6. MEMORY PROGRAMMING TIPS

Some of the many ways to use the memory are:
REPEATED CONTINUOUS CQ: Program one memory
to send "CQ CQ ... DE (your call - once or twice)".
With proper choice of number of CQ's, and "fine­adjustment" with length of spaces, you can make
the CQ completely fill the memory, with no exces­sive space at the end. Play out using the repeat
switch to send the CQ as long as desired. End the
CQ by sending "K" with the paddle.

CQ WITH AUTOMATIC PAUSE: Similar to above, ex­cept add "K" at the end of the recorded message,
and leave a several-second listening space at the
end. During this pause in the recorded message,

you can listen for an answer. If there is no answer,
the keyer automatically repeats the CQ. With break­in, or semi-breakin rigs, you can wander about the
room while the keyer does all the work, sending as
many CQ/pause sequences as required for an an­swer. Stop the automatic sequence by switching off
repeat, or using the reset button or paddle. You will
probably want to use the combine C/D function to
get a long CQ/pause sequence, except perhaps in
contests where shorter CQ's are appropriate.

tors to call you in contest, or in everyday operation.
You'll find that your keyer is as good as adding 6 dB
in antenna gain or increased power simply because
of this factor: Most MK-1 owners wonder how they
ever got along without the memory once they use it
a few days.

7. IN CASE OF TROUBLE

Keyer trouble can occur in one of two distinct cate­gories:

MANUAL CONTROL OF CQ LENGTH: Let's say you re­cord: "CQ CQ ... DE (your call) K". When playing the
message out, you can lengthen the CQ by pushing
the message button again just before "K" is sent.
The message then starts at the beginning again.
This feature may also be used to repeat the first
part of ANY message, e.g. the signal report in con­tests.

CONTEST: Many of the top contest operators use a
programmable keyer such as the MK-1. Listen to
them to learn the best ways to program your mes­sages. As an example, the following is a possible re­corded message sequence for the CQ WW DX con­test:

Message A: CQ TEST DE (your call twice) K
Message B: 5NN (your zone) BK
Message C: R QRZ DE (your call) K
Message D: DE (your call twice) K

These messages handle most sending except for the
other stations call. Message "A" could be sized to
just fit into memory so you could use the "repeat"
switch when you leave the operating position for a
few seconds. In this case, you might want to send
the "K" manually, rather than recording it.

USE OF FULL MEMORY IN EVERYDAY OPERATION:
The messages will hold virtually all standard CW ex­changes, such as name, QTH, RIG, etc. If you use the
combine C/D switch for a CQ and pause, you can re­cord a portion of personal data in "A" and the re­mainder in "B".

OTHER TIPS FOR GETTING ANSWER: Contest win­ners make most QSO's calling CQ, not by calling
others. Your MK-1, once correctly programmed, will
send flawless and businesslike CQ's at high speed,
which greatly increases the tendency other opera-

1. Keyer does not work properly when received.

2. Keyer fails after use for sometime.

In the first category, we find that many keyers re­turned immediately after receipt are operating
properly. Usually, the owner has not connected the
equipment properly or does not understand its use.
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AGAIN CAREFULLY AND
CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS TO YOUR RIG AND PAD­DLE BEFORE ASSUMING THERE IS A DEFECT.

Although we perform several tests and inspections
before shipment, some keyers fail in the mail, usu­ally due to vibration which shakes loose a wire or in­termittent solder joint. A careful physical inspection
may turn up the difficulty and save a return. Push­down on all IC's to be sure they're firmly seated in
their sockets.

the keyer is a complex device, and we do not re­commend you attempt to service it yourself. How­ever, if you do , be sure that AC power is discon­nected and observe precautions required for CMOS
circuitry: CMOS CIRCUITRY IS SOMEWHAT SENSI­TIVE TO BURNOUT BY STATIC CHARGES AND EXCESS
VOLTAGES. In normal use, this is no problem. Also,
simply reaching inside the unit or examining the cir­cuit board should not cause failures. However, the
following precautions should be observed for
safety: 1) Work in a static-free environment. Nylon
rugs, etc. can cause static sparks to build up on your
fingers, which may be transferred to any IC that is
touched. A wooden or concrete floor in the working
area is best. 2) Always remove power before work­ing on the board or removing or inserting any IC's.

3) Ground you soldering iron tip to the chassis or
board ground using a clip lead before doing any sol­dering.

TROUBLE CHART

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE/

Keyer sometimes stays
on continuously when
power is is first applied.

Wavering monitor tone
or erratic operation on
battery power.

SOLUTION

Normal. Send a few
dots or dashes to clear.

Weak battery. Use 12
volts or ignore symp­toms.

8. WARRANTY & RETURNS TO MANUFACTURER

Read "In case of trouble" section before returning.
Be sure to enclose a detailed description of symp­toms inside the package, including name and ad­dress, rig model and type, and connections made to
rig and paddle. If you don't include sufficient details
we may not be able to help you, and you may re­ceive back the unit in the same condition as sent.
Be especially sure to include details of any intermit­tent conditions time after warmup, ways to induce
intermittent, etc.

Keyer works OK but be­comes erratic when
transmitter is keyed. Or
else, transmitter plate
current is much higher
than normal when using
keyer. (Problem is RF
pickup getting into key­er.)

Polarity of transmitter
keying output may be
reversed. Be sure MK-1
case and transmitter
case grounds are con­nected together. (via
MK-1"key jack" output
plug on rear panel)

Connect .01 µF disc by­pass capacitors at pad­dle. One between dot
and common, other be­tween dash and com­mon. In extreme cases,
it may be necessary to
shield leads to paddle,
and ground the shield.

Connect .01 µF bypass
capacitor across trans­mitter key jack at trans­mitter.

You must ship the keyer postpaid and include $2.50
return postage/handling in USA. (For other coun­tries, add additional shipping charges as in ads or
brochure.) If you do not enclose shipping charges,
you will have to pay additional COD charges for re­turn.

WARRANTY: Your keyer is warranted to the original
purchaser to be free of defects in workmanship and
materials for one full year. You must include pur­chase date (plus or minus one week) or other proof
of original purchase and date, to qualify for free
warranty work. THE WARRANTY IS VOID IF, IN OUR
OPINION THE UNIT HAS BEEN MISUSED, ABUSED,
MODIFIED IN ANY WAY OR TREATED IN OTHER WAY
CONTRARY TO THE INSTRUCTIONS OR WHICH MAY
HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO A FAILURE.

If the unit is out of warranty, you must enclose a
$10 minimum service charge plus postage, as
above, with the return. We can repair most prob­lems for this minimum charge, but will inform you
of any additional charges before completing the re­pairs.

Keyer seems to miss dots
when recording.

Other problems.

Switch intermittent.

Clock is not triggered
when recording. Use a
heavier "fist" when re­cording. See instruc­tions above.

See last section of in­structions for any latest
information.

Check switch with ohm­meter.

The MK-1 is sold with a 15 day home trail. Your
money will be refunded, less postage and insurance
charges ($2.50 in USA), if returned in "as new" or
"as received" condition. The cost of repairing any
damages, scratches, etc. caused by the user will be
deducted from the refund. Any modifications void
the return privilege. If you believe you have re­ceived a defective unit, and simply wish repair or re­placement, we will extend the trial for another 15
days after we clear up any defects.

Less the 2 % of our products are ever returned with
defects. We're proud of this record, but are con­stantly trying to improve on it. But, if you have
problems, we are here to help you.

9. LATE NOTES

At this writing, 10 month into production, the MK-1
has proven to be not only in expensive, but also
quite reliable. We had some problems with a bad
batch of .1 µF capacitors in the monitor, and also
with a bad batch of LED's. Other than these parts,
which are no longer used, failures are usually con­fined to the IC's, which are easily replaced since
they are socketed. Your unit is not only tested
twice, but has been subject to a new burning proce­dure which has been found to identify most of the
marginal IC's before shipment. As a result, you
have, we think, the most reliable keyers of its com­plexity ever made.

Several amateurs have added pushbuttons in paral­lel with the panel pushbuttons and mounted these
outside the case in an external box. This will work,
but bypass capacitors (.01 µF disc) should be used
across the present buttons to keep RF out. Also, it is
emphasized that this mod., or ANY MOD, voids the
warranty, since mods. have been found to be a ma­jor source of failures. We can fix most problems for
$10 plus shipping (see above), so if you wish to
modify, have fun! Just don't expect us to fix any fail­ures for free! Also, we can't comment about any
other mods, due to the large volume of mail that
would result. So please do not bother to write ask­ing about mods. We can supply no other informa­tion.

There is no easy way to use a straight key with the
MK-1. Connecting a key across the MK-1 keyed out­put is perfectly safe, and will key the transmitter,
but the MK-1 monitor not go on.

We will probably offer a plug-in accessory to ex­pand the MK-1 to a record 16 messages! This will
sell for under $50, and will work with ANY existing
MK-1 ever made. (plus into the memory IC socket).
If you are interested, please drop a postcard imme­diately so we know if there is any demand for this
option, and we'll mail details when available. Or
check ads id available.

There has been only one failure of the MK-1 solid­state output transistors (ham tried to use it with an
old 807 300 ma. cathode keyed rig.). So we're glad
we didn't use a relay for keying, as the xistors are in­finitely more reliable. However, we found that some
Ten-TEC an the early models of the FT-301D cannot
be keyed by the MK-1 directly. The solution is sim­ple. Wire a 1.5 volt battery in series with the keyed
output (observe polarity), and everything works
fine. Current is drawn from the battery only when
keying, and so a tiny "C" battery should last for
years. We understand Yaesu is aware of the prob­lem, and is working on it.