Audio Note Interstage Mono Block 300D Instruction Manual

Copyright © 2010 AudioNote Kits
www.AudioNoteKits.com audionotekits@rogers.com
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Copyright © 2010 AudioNote Kits
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Page 2
Copyright © 2010 AudioNote Kits
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Page 3
Copyright © 2010 AudioNote Kits
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Page 4
Copyright © 2010 AudioNote Kits
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Copyright © 2010 AudioNote Kits
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Page 6
Install the tang strip as shown with the PEMS (little threaded standoffs) facing up to the sky.
Now use the black or stainless M3 10mm screws and m3 nuts to secure the tang strips to the chassis.
You can position the front insert plate in the chassis just to see how it fits but we will not be securing it in place now – we will be building on the front insert plate and installing the completed section into the mono block later on!
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Our next task is to install the heat sink against the chassis which will be used by the Filament Section of the Monoblock. Basically the 300B tubes receive a 5V DC filament voltage via a regulator that needs to be heat sunk in order for it to operate properly.
We will be installing two bars against the chassis.
Here the first bar is placed against the chassis. Note this is the bar with just two holes in it .
The second bar that is placed on top. Use the M4 countersunk screws
provided and thread them through the front of the chassis.
Place the second heat sink with the 4 holes on top with the countersunk heat sink holes facing up!
Tighten with the M4 nuts.
Now take the M3 25mm screw and the M3 spacer and install such that the spacer secures the screw into position (see next illustrations also).
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The idea is that the filament board will eventually sit up on the screw and align with the heatsink!
Ok good work so far!
Now we will install the ceramic posts for the power supply hardwiring – they use M3 countersunk screws which go through the top of the chassis and secure the ceramic posts on the underside of the chassis.
The first picture simply shows the posts laying next to the holes they will be inserted into.
Here you can see the hardwire posts now installed in the chassis.
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250uf 500v 250uf 500v 100+100uf
Install the three caps into position. The 35mm clamps are a bit tight but you should be able to
secure the caps into position as shown. Use the M4 screws to secure into position.
Here below you can see the caps from underside of chassis.
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We are going to install the T-199 Mains transformer now into position. I suggest you lay the transformer upside down beside the chassis in the format
shown. The Mains transformer has a primary side (0 110 120 etc.) and a secondary
(400 300 0 300 400 etc). The Primary is the side with less wires - these wires are connected to the IEC
or AC inlet socket – so let’s position the transformer so that it the primaries are situated at the back of the chassis.
The primaries for the Mains transformer can be threaded through the grommet hole quite easily but the secondaries will need a little help – we suggest you give the secondary wires a light spray with the WD40 so that they can slide through the grommet hole a little easier.
Continue feeding the wires through while the mains transformer lies on its side as shown.
Now install the rubber strips into position over the holes so that the transformer can sit on top of these and isolate from the chassis and secure the mains transformer in place.
Once all the wires are fed through you can use a cloth to wipe off any excess WD40 spray.
Here you can see the completed Mains transformer installation.
Primary Side
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Install the CHOKE in the same manner.
The Red/Black pair go through the hole nearest the front of the chassis.
The output wires (group of three) want to be closest to the capacitors.
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The underneath view of the chassis with all the transformers now installed! The next step is to twist the same colored wires together on the Mains
Transformer for the upcoming wiring jobs!
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The first picture shows the IEC socket installed in the back of the unit with the 2 x M3 10mm csk screws, along with the mains switch, which simply pushes through the hole. Install these as shown.
The second picture shows the Chassis Ground screw which is one of the Mains transformer screws.
Our first task is to take the green wire from the Mains Primary and we are going to connect it to the chassis ground point.
Extend the wire past the chassis ground point – then strip it and TIN the wire (tinning is the process of adding solder to a bare stranded wire so that it can be easily connected to another solder point).
Add the Ground Lug to the tinned wire and then solder the ground lug onto the wire.
Since you have unhooked the nut on the chassis ground point we are going to add two more prepared cables from the IEC bag to this chassis ground point...
Add in the wire with the GND lug and crimp on it as well as the green wire with just the GND lug on it.
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Now you can install the green wire with GND lug and crimp on to the GND post of the IEC socket which is the one on the bottom of the IEC.
The third wire will be used later for the power supply ground.
Gently tighten the nut – we may be moving the wires a little so no need to tighten too much!
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For 120 V operation take the twisted white and twisted black pairs of wires. Let’s start with the white pair – we will be cutting this wire, stripping the ends off,
twisting the two ends together, tinning, adding a crimp to the end and soldering the wire on to the crimp, then installing the heat shrink!
It is a good idea to read a few pages before beginning so you understand the process.
This is what we will end up when we have completed the white wires.
Let’s start by trimming the white wires leave some extra length in case you
mess up and need to start again – I would leave about 5 inches of twisted white wire at least.
Here we have cut the wires, twisted together and then TINNED them (i.e. added solder to the exposed wire).
You may want to trim the tinned wire to the desired length and then place the crimp over the tinned bare wire – if it does not fit then try smoothing out the tinned wire with soldering iron.
Then add some solder in the hole showing – use a fine tipped soldering iron – make sure the solder “Takes” such that the solder is shiny and the wire has accepted the solder!
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Then add the prepared heat shrink on the end.
If you do not have a heat gun you can run your soldering iron over the heat shrink quickly and it will shrink – clean off any excess solder off your soldering iron if you use this method.
Once that is complete you can insert the crimp on to the bottom of the rocker switch. Make sure you wait for the crimp to have cooled down a little after putting on the heat shrink.
The second picture here also shows black wires now installed onto the rocker switch. You can do this now.
Now take the prepared twisted cable and install on the IEC as per the picture to the left.
This completes the IEC section – well done!
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Rectifier Wiring – 8 pin tube valve base
We are now going to wire up some of the Mains secondaries to the Rectifier Valve base at the back of the chassis.
In order for the tube to work at all we have to provide a filament voltage to the tube – in the case of the 5AR4 the filament voltage is 5V AC.
If you look on your transformer wiring chart you will see that the yellow secondaries are the 5V AC – so we will connect these to pins 2 & 8 of the 8 pin rectifier base.
You will see a notch on the 8 pin valve base and the notch is between pins 1 & 8 . after the notch counting clock wise starting from one from the side of the base as shown in the picture opposite we can see where pins 2 & 8 are.
1
4
5 6 7
2
3
8
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