Audio Note DAC Kit 3.1, DAC Kit 4.1, DAC3.1 Signature Kit Instruction Manual

Copyright © 2006-2011 AudioNote Kits
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Copyright © 2006-2011 AudioNote Kits
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Copyright © 2006-2011 AudioNote Kits
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Copyright © 2006-2011 AudioNote Kits
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Copyright © 2006-2011 AudioNote Kits
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Copyright © 2006-2011 AudioNote Kits
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Insert 4 feet in the bottom of the chassis. Fix them each in place using an M4 nut and washer.
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Trim the wire to about __ inches.
Strip about ¼” of insulation off the end of the green wire.
Tin the bare wire by adding solder to the end.
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Add solder to secure the GND Lug to the end of the wire.
United States
120v
Canada
120v
UK
230v or 240v
Europe
230v / 240v
Hong Kong
220v
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Start by cutting two short pieces of wire approx 2” in length each, stripping the insulation off the ends and tinning the wire.
Then we will inter-wire the Mains transformer primaries.
Remember, we are wiring here for 120v - if your region is different then you will need to consult the wiring chart on the previous page to determine how you inter-wire for your region.
From the IEC bag we want to take the brown and blue wires with the crimps on one end.
Trim the wires to about _____ inches in length and then solder on to the correct Mains transformer primary tags for your region.
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Here, the wires are soldered onto the top-most 0v and the bottom-most 120v for North American/Canadian 120v.
Remember, we are wiring here for 120v - if your region is different then you will need to consult the regional wiring chart to determine how you inter-wire for your region.
The rocker switch simply snaps into pace in the chassis slot.
Use the CSK M3 10mm screw and M3 nut to secure the IEC socket into position.
Here you can see the correct installation of the IEC socket and rocker switch from inside the chassis.
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Since the Choke fits into a tight location we suggest you put the screws and washers into position through the holes in the choke covers – then lower the choke into position making sure that you align with the non painted hole - see opposite.
Note the wires at the back of the choke.
The left-most picture shows the final position of the choke from inside the chassis.
The central picture shows its position under the chassis where you will now secure the 4 holes of the choke with serrated M4 washers and M4 nuts.
The picture opposite shows the correct orientation for the Mains Transformer.
The following instructions will show how this is achieved.
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When installing the Mains transformer be sure to line it up with the unpainted hole in order to ensure a ground connection.
Secure the transformer at all four corners.
Once the transformer is installed you can connect up the Blue and Brown Crimped wires from the Mains transformer directly to the Rocker Switch.
Also connect the green earth wire from the mains transformer to the GND lug as shown opposite.
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Add the twisted wire (Cable #3) and the ground wire (Cable #4) as shown in the graphic opposite.
Let‟s add one final GROUND wire connection from the M4
screw in the chassis. Take a piece of bare wire and solder it between the V300
and 0 terminals as shown opposite. Next, take a terminated ground wire and strip the un-terminated end and solder it to the short that you have just made. The other, terminated, end connects to the chassis ground post.
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Here you can see the correct installation of the shield – You will need to remove it later on when we wire up to the Mains transformer but for now you can leave it in and show off your wonderful work to your wife!
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Category
Quantity
Part
Designator
Capacitors (Electrolytic)
2
470uf 16V
C2, C4
1
2200uF 35V
C9
2
22uF 450V
C6 ,C7
2
68uF 450V
C3, C5
Capacitors (Non-polarized)
1
Disc 4700uF 1000v
C10
1
.22uf 600V
C8
1
.47uF 600V
C1
Resistors
1
100R
R8
2
1K0
R5, R6
1
2K7
R12
1
15K
R11
1
33K
R2
1
68K
R3
2
100K
R1, R10
1
150K
R7
1
220K
R9
1
470K
R4
Semiconductor Devices
1
KBU6J6A
U1
1
3.5W 150V Zener
D7
4
Zero Ohm Resistors
D1, D2, D4, D5
2
1N4007
D3, D6
2
78S12
U2, U3
Variable Resistor NOTE: This may be replaced with 2x 22K resistors
1
50K 500mW
VR1
Valve Bases
1
8 pin valve base
1
9 pin valve base
Tubes
1
6X5 Tube
1
ECL82 / 6BM8 tube
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The 8-pin (octal) valve base is shown opposite.
It‟s a fairly tight fit into the board so take you will need to
take your time and make sure all the legs are individually positioned over the holes in the board.
Now, let‟s make sure we have the correct orientation - note the Notch on the valve base along with the Notch on the PCB. These need to line up - see next image.
Here you can clearly see the notches lined up – this is a correct orientation of the 8-pin valve base.
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The next job is to solder the valve base into position – Once you have fitted the octal into position I suggest you use a cap or something to support the board so that it is nice and horizontal.
The reason for this is so that the valve base will be soldered into the board nice and level – you may want to solder a pin on one side and then the opposite and then double check that the valve base is nice and level see the following images.
It is only necessary to solder half the valve base whole – feel free to put solder on the entire hole if you feel like you need to do so – I usually pick one side and solder the lead to the board – you may want to pull on the lead to make sure that it is all the way out – sometimes a valve base lead can stick in position.
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Resistors
1
100R
R8
2
1K0
R5, R6
1
2K7
R12
1
15K
R11
1
33K
R2
1
68K
R3
2
100K
R1 ,R10
1
150K
R7
1
220K
R9
1
470K
R4
If you have a voltmeter you can check the value of each resistor prior to soldering in OR you can refer to the color code chart in the above parts list.
Identity the correct resistor and then install in the specified designator (R1 for example).
Resistors have no polarity so it does not matter the orientation but I find that if I stick to one direction from left to right it makes it a lot easier to read the resistors on the board.
Here we are installing the 100R resistor.
You should locate the reference designator on the board (in this case it is R8) and then do an approx bend on the correct length as we have done opposite.
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We suggest you install the spacers on the board at this point.
Once you are feeling confident of your resistor installation it is time to solder on the underside of the board.
For first time soldering here are some tips to follow:
1. Clean the tip with a wet sponge after each solder so as not to let resin build up.
2. „Tin‟ the tip (i.e. add a small amount of solder to it) just before soldering.
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Once the joints have been made, give them a quick inspection and touch up any that look suspicious in any way.
Next step is to clip the leads - you want to do this but be careful not to clip off too close to the board where you endanger the pad – see picture opposite for a good example.
We used to use a little trim pot in this position – but due to its unavailability we are now using a resistor combination to do this. The diagram below illustrates what we are about to do:
Insert the resistors into position as shown.
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Bend one of the legs over and through the hole in the board as shown - solder into position from the top of the board.
Take the leg of the other resistor and twist it around the leg of the other one as shown opposite.
Here you can see the resistors in position – you will want to solder the two resistors now on the underside of the PCB.
Semiconductor Devices
1
3.5W 150V Zener
D7
This is a critical part and therefore warrants its own individual bag.
The Zener diode goes into the D7 Position . You will notice a gray stripe on the zener and you will want
to position this to match the stripe on the stencil on the PCB in D7 position.
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Here you can see the Zener diode installed in the correct orientation.
Capacitors (Electrolytic)
Do not install C2 and C4 at this stage
1
2200uF 35V
C9
2
22uF 450V
C6 ,C7
2
68uF 450V
C3, C5
We are now going to install the Electrolytic Capacitors into the power supply Board. Note that C2 and C4 will be installed at a later stage.
Electrolytic Capacitor Lesson: An electrolytic capacitor is a device that has a positive and a negative side to it. In other words it MUST be installed correctly or it will basically explode. Luckily the modern capacitors have a slow explosion mode that will look like a dragon breathing fire.
Let‟s begin by installing C3. You will notice that the capacitor has some markings on it -
a 68 for 68uF, a 450 for 450Volts, and a large strip down one side which signifies the NEGATIVE side of the capacitor.
You will notice on the stencil on the PCB that there is a + designator on the board and you will need to orient such that the + side is the opposite to the NEGATIVE stripe ­The electrolytic capacitor also has a longer lead on the POSITIVE side.
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Here we can see both 68uF capacitors (C3 and C5) correctly installed.
Install the remaining electrolytic capacitors that are required at this stage (i.e. C9, C6, and C7).
You can see these installed in the picture opposite.
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Semiconductor Devices
1
KBU6J6A
U1
Install the Bridge Rectifier into position in U1. Note the notch is located facing into the middle of the board
- you will also see a corresponding notch stenciled on the PCB.
Capacitors (Non-polarized)
1
Disc 4700uF 3000v
C10
1
.22uf 600V
C8
1
.47uF 600V
C1
Install in C10 the DISC capacitor – this capacitor is not polarized so it does not matter which direction you put it in.
Now the same for C8 which is called a FILM capacitor and also is not polarized so it does not matter the orientation. You will notice on the .22uF capacitor it designates 300 V~. This means that it is rated for 300V AC which is like 600V DC - well within the range of this power supply.
Next step is to install the .47uF AN FILM capacitor into position.
Again this capacitor is not polarized so the orientation does not matter
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Remove the two long twisted wires from the Bag #2 – We will be inserting these into the PCB from the underside of the board.
From the underside of the board you can see how the wires are positioned.
On the topside of the board you can see the wires protruding through in the correct location – the red wire will be the + side and the black wire will be the negative.
You will see the +6V2- Note that we use this board in a number of different configurations for both 12v and 6.3v filaments for different kits – the stencil is always marked 6V2.
Solder the filament wires from the top of the board now and you will then want to clip the tops of the wires - be careful not to let them flick up and hit you in the face!
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Now take the short wire from BAG #2 - we will be using this to hardwire from the 8-pin valve base to the 9-pin valve base.
The graphic to the left shows the connections for the twisted wires.
EXPLANATION: On the M2 Power Supply Board we will have 2 different tubes - a 6X5 and an ECL82. As explained before, in order for tubes to operate they need a filament voltage - we will be supplying 6.3V AC to both of these tubes. The wire we are installing
here is used to “parallel” the 6.3V
AC that will be coming from the secondary of the Mains transformer.
Note in these pictures the twisted wire has been soldered into pins 4 & 5 on the 9-pin valve base.
On the 9-pin valve base note the upper and lower holes through the pins. Connect the current red & black wires to the lower hole on the valve pin.
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Here is the completed connection of the “parallel filament”.
We are now going to install the 6X5 filament wire - this is the THICK black & white twisted wire that is located in Bag #1 of your WIRE BAG.
This is the wire that will connect from the Mains transformer secondary to the 6X5 filament.
Start by stripping about ¼” of insulation off the end of the
wire and then tinning the copper ends – these ends will be inserted into the holes on the 8-pin octal base – the same pins we have already connected to with the Parallel filament wire from the last step.
Use the upper hole on the 8-pin valve base pin to connect these wires.
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Now get out your BAG#3 from the wire bag and we will install the red and black wires that will be used as the B+ (High Voltage) and corresponding Ground wire.
These pictures show the red and black wires installed in the B+ and GND holes on the M2 power supply board. On the right you will solder the red wire on the B+ from the topside of the board - clipping off the remaining lead
- and do the same for the Black GND wire.
Semiconductor Devices
4
Zero Ohm Resistors
D1, D2, D4, D5
2
1N4007
D3, D6
This section controls the voltages that we will be supplying to the analog output board.
Here we are configuring for 12V filament operation (as used in the L3 Line, L3 Phono, and DAC3.1).
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The 1N4007 Diodes are polarized and therefore need to be installed correctly. In the picture above you will note the D3 & D6 designators which shows a bar – this bar lines up with the gray strip on the zener diode – Note how they are correctly installed.
Go ahead and install the zero ohm components into position and the zener diodes.
Two regulators have been provided with the kit – these have been specially made to an exact length by AudioNote Kits. They use a solid core wire so that it is easy to position on the board through the tiny holes – Read this section before doing any soldering!
IMPORTANT: Note the position of the regulators in the pictures below.
Place the regulators into position as shown opposite and below.
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The pictures above and opposite show a successfully configured regulator.
Once these components are in place you can then install the remaining two electrolytic capacitors (C2 and C4).
Take the LED Harness from your M2 PS bag and you can solder it onto the board as shown opposite. Solder from underside of the board.
Take the remaining thick Black & White twisted wire from the BAG#1 and solder it to the 13V6 locations on the PCB.
It does not matter which is red or black as it is an AC voltage signal.
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Then take the twisted thick RED wires and connect these to the 300V 300V on the PCB.
The picture opposite is what your M2 Power supply board should now look like!
Feel free now to “place” (do not screw in) your newly
assembled board into position in the chassis. Now install the metal heatsink under where the regulators
will sit. This must be firmly attached to the chassis. One more step and then time for a coffee break on a job
well done!
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The Black CHOKE that is located at the rear of the chassis and has a red and black wire. you will want to twist these wires by hand and feed them along the shield towards the M2 PCB.
We will now solder these wires directly to the underside of the PCB – You will notice that on the top of the PCB there is marked “CH” in two locations – these are the holes that the CHOKE will be connected to – Flip over the M2 PCB and locate the holes on the under side
You will want to cut the choke wires to the correct length, leaving a nice amount of slack. Trim the insulation from the ends and tin the wires if you see fit. Then insert the wires from the underside of the board - no polarity for red or black so you can follow along with the pictures opposite.
Now that the choke wires have been soldered to the board, you can now place the board back into position.
Well done – we will be soldering connections to the Mains transformer in the next session!
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Page 38
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Page 39
We are now going to take the 3 pairs of twisted wires that are already connected to the M2 Power Supply Board and connect these directly to the SECONDARY of the Mains transformer.
Start by taking the RED / RED twisted pair and trim to a
good length and then solder to the „300‟ lugs on the Mains
transformer. I would suggest stripping the insulation off the end of the red wires and tinning. Then place the tinned lead through the lug on the Mains transformer and then apply solder – it is not necessary to twist the lead around the post.
Next step is to take the Red/Black twisted wire that is connected to the 8-pin octal valve base.
For the 6X5 – this is the filament wire which will be supply
6.3V to the 6X5 and ECL82 tubes on the M2 power supply.
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The third pair of wires is the Red/Black twisted pair that is connected to the 13V6 on the M2 power supply board.
Note that the 0 tap is not used here. The last wire for hookup in this section will be the long green wire with the GND
lug on one end found in your IEC Kit Bag- Secure the GND lug end on the M4 screw in the chassis and trim and solder from the top of the board the green wire into the GND hole located near the 13V6 pads on the M2 power supply Board.
Now review your connections made in this section using the graphic opposite and wiring table below.
Wire
M2 PCB
Mains Transformer
RED / RED
300v 300v
0(1) V300(2)
RED/BLACK
13V6 13V6
8 8
RED/BLACK
Pin 2 & 7 6X5
0 6.3v
Check that you have made the connection between the chassis GND lug and GND on the M2 PCB.
Check that you have made the connection between the chassis GND lug and 0 on the mains transformer (i.e. the 0 between 300 and 300).
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We are now going to secure the regulators to the Heat Sink that is installed in the chassis.
The picture opposite shows the parts that are necessary to do this.
EXPLANATION: It is ideal to electrically isolate the regulator from the ground on the chassis (i.e. the heatsink) – this way the regulator is floating – we do this with our little insulation kit which consists of a mica layer and a plastic insert. You can get these from the Hardware Bag marked Heat Sink.
Begin by taking one of the mica washers and laying it on the heatsink as shown in the left-most picture.
The plastic insert should be fitted onto the screw as shown in the central picture.
I would suggest that you line up the mica strip with the hole in the heat sink and install the screw and plastic insert into the hole in the regulator.
Then gently screw the regulator into the heat sink- the mica piece may try and move so just gently ease it back into position.
Repeat for the second regulator.
At this point you can secure the M2 power supply board to the chassis with one or more of the M4 screws provided.
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That completes our assembly of the M2 Power Supply Board.
Feel free to re install the shield back into position or you can wait until nearer the end of the kit build if you prefer.
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In this section we are going to electrically test the power supply.
Start by installing a 1A Slo Blo fuse (IEC BAG) into position as shown.
Use a screwdriver or flat edge or your fingers pull the Fuse holder out - you will need to squeeze to completely remove it.
Insert the fuse into the holder as shown opposite.
With the fuse installed into the holder insert back into the IEC plug.
With the Fuse installed we are ready to do some testing!
READ the entire remaining section first before taking any actions!
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Page 44
The LED on the M2 Power Supply Board will be the first indicator that we have power – I would suggest just taping the LED – make sure the metal leads of the LED are not touching any other circuitry or chassis – Note the Led has not been pushed in all the way.
Also note that the LED will only work when inserted the correct way around.
Let‟s install our tubes into the board – the supplied 6X5 in the 8-pin valve base and the ECL82 (or 6BM8) in the 9-pin base.
Seeing as we have a number of loose filament and HT wires coming from the PCB, I would suggest taping the ends to make sure that they do not short with one another when we go to test with power!
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EXPLANATION: There are a number of terms that we will be using in this section that we should be familiar with – the HT or High Voltage or B+ is all the same thing – this is the HIGHEST DC voltage in the circuit typically and is the voltage that we will be supplying to the Tubes in our audio signal path.
THE UNIT IS STILL OFF AT THIS POINT If you have a Multimeter set it to OHMS and measure the
resistance from B+ to GND on the M2 Board – you can see from the picture opposite the approx location on the board to find these 2 points. You should see a reading in the 300K ohm range – this is a good sign – if you have a very low ohmage then there could be a problem and you may want to contact us first.
Take a power chord and plug in the unit but make sure the amplifier is off.
Before the first power on we suggest the following steps:
1. Make sure that you have a quiet environment when you are turning on for the first time – that way if there is a problem with the circuit you will be able to see & hear a crackle or a vibration or hum etc. if there is any.
2. If you have a Variac then it would be useful to use it so you can power on slowly and check DC voltages – If not we will just turn on.
3. Press the Rocker switch such that the 1 is pushed flat against the chassis.
4. Observe the LED light turning on and also look for glow from the tubes.
5. Get ready to switch off immediately if anything goes wrong.
6. Get your voltmeter ready – you will want to perform a High Voltage check.
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First measure from B+ to GND on the M2 PCB (use the ground point closest to the LED section).
You should read approximately 260v DC.
Now measure the filament voltages - these are the connections labeled +6V2- on top of the PCB.
These should be approximately 12v DC.
If there is a problem with any of the above voltages, switch to AC volts and measure the 300 300 points on the M2 PCB – you should get somewhere over 600V AC.
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While in AC mode measure the 13V6 pads on the M2 PCB – We have 8 0 8 taps which should give us roughly 16V AC.
Location
Approx Reading
B+ to GND
260v DC
+6V2-
12v DC
+6V2-
12v DC
Location
Approx Reading
300 300
>600v AC
13V6 13V6
16v AC
If you have correct voltage readings on the M2 Power Supply then Congratulations are in order and you have completed the first half of the kit.
Feel free to contact us if you have any problems with your power supply or have any questions up to this point
audionotekits@rogers.com
Also feel free to give us an update that things are going according to plan.
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Page 48
Category
Quantity
Part
Designator
Capacitors (Electrolytic)
2
4700uf 16V
C1, C2
Resistors
2
1K0
R3, R4
2
4R7
R1, R2
Semiconductor Devices
4
Schotkey Diodes
D1, D2, D3, D4
2
L.E.D‟s
LED1, LED2
Start by installing the 4 spacers provided. This will make it easier to work with as we install the components onto the board.
If you are an advanced builder we suggest you read through this section completely and then proceed with your build from the parts list – otherwise we suggest you work through each step in the order suggested.
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Page 49
Install the LED‟s into the LED1 and LED2 positions. You will notice a square end on the stencil and a rounded
end – Insert the LONG lead of the led on the SQUARE
end.
Capacitors (Electrolytic)
2
4700uf 16V
C1, C2
Lets now install the 2 Electrolytic capacitors in the board. The stencil on the board for each capacitor is a circle with a
+ sign beside it.
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Note that each capacitor only has the POSITIVE side noted – You will have to locate the Stripe on the capacitor as shown above and insert correctly – Don‟t be confused by the two caps close together.
The picture opposite shows the capacitors correctly installed.
Semiconductor Devices
4
Schotkey Diodes
D1, D2, D3, D4
Schotkey diode Installation
For correct installation of the diode shown you will notice the – sign on the top of the DIODE case that denotes the negative side. Also note the white DOT on the board noting positive side.
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Page 51
Standard Diode Installation
Opposite is a picture of the standard diode inserted – you will want to line up the gray stripe on the diode that denotes the positive side and position it where the White Dot is.
Resistors
2
1K0
R3, R4
2
4R7
R1, R2
Install all four resistors into their correct positions. These pictures only show R3 and R4.
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Page 52
Position the Digital Power Supply board into the chassis as shown with the DC voltage side (AGND DGND etc.) positioned away from the Power Supply.
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Page 53
You should now have 3 wires connected between the Digital Power Supply Board and the mains transformer.
If you are feeling good about your connections install your AC plug into the back of the chassis and switch the unit ON (1 pressed flush to the chassis) – Note the LED‟s turn on.
Perform following VOLTAGE checks
Between A+ and AGND
+12v
Between D+ and DGND
+12v
Between A- and AGND
-12v
Between A+ and AGND
Between D+ and DGND
Between A- and AGND
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Page 54
The next step is to install the metal screen. It is important that a good electrical contact is maintained
between the chassis and the screen itself. This picture shows the hole that will make that contact from
the chassis – note that the surrounding paint has been removed.
As you can see here, the screen has a corresponding hole where the paint has been removed.
These holes should mate and provide a good electrical contact.
This picture shows the final position of the shield. Use 3 M4 10mm screws and nuts to secure the screen in
place - insert screws from underneath the chassis.
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Page 55
IMPORTANT NOTE:
It is important that all five of the spacers and screws are used to secure the digital board in place.
One of these screws (see picture opposite) is used to earth the digital board directly to the chassis. If this 'connection' is not made securely, a great deal of hum and RF interference can result.
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Page 56
The RCA‟s on top of each other are the analog output
RCA‟s, install these into position along with the single input
RCA. You can use a red one on top and a black one below.
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Page 57
Power Supply Pad
Digital Board Pad
AGND
AGND
A+
A+
A-
A-
DGND
DGND
D+
D+
S- (unused)
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Page 58
Install the 9-pin valve bases into position and secure each with the M3 16mm pan head screws, 6mm spacers and nuts on the underside of the board.
Category
Quantity
Part
Designator
Capacitors (Electrolytic)
4
470uf 16v
C1, C2, C3, C4
Capacitors (Non-polarized)
2
0.1uf 630v
C5, C6
Resistors
2
3K3
R1, R11
4
1K0
R3, R4, R5, R6
2
39K
R7, R8
2
1K5
R9, R10
1
1M
R2, R12
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Resistors
2
3K3
R1, R11
4
1K0
R3, R4, R5, R6
2
39K
R7, R8
2
1K5
R9, R10
1
1M
R2, R12
You will want to bend the resistors to the correct length for easy insertion into the board – I suggest that you place all the resistors into position and bend the legs gently on the under side of the board to make sure they stay in one place – also line them up so that all the color codes are readable in the same direction.
Once the resistors are placed, check them with picture on the next page and the parts list for correct values before soldering.
Solder all the resistors AND the VALVE BASES into position. Once soldered, clip off all the component legs from the underside of the board.
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Page 60
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Page 61
Capacitors (Electrolytic)
4
470uf 16v
C1, C2, C3, C4
The next step is to solder in the 4x 470uf 16v capacitors. These capacitors are electrolytic and they are polarized
which means they have to go in a certain way - the capacitor has a long leg and a short leg - the short leg is the negative side and the long leg is the positive side.
You will see a + marking on the board, align the long leg on the side closest to the + marking on the PCB.
Capacitors (Non-polarized)
2
0.1uf 630v
C5, C6
The final step is to install the 2 x 0.1uf 630v film capacitors. These can go in either way but it is recommended that the strip is on the side with the analog signal entering. These capacitors will be installed on the underside of the board as shown opposite - the reason for the heat shrink is because the casing on the caps is conductive and could short any circuitry touching the case.
You can then proceed to cut the extra leads. Note that these are made from silver wire so may be very useful to keep around for future projects!
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Page 62
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Page 63
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Page 64
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Page 65
First, we need to connect the 5687 board to the M2 Power Supply board. The connections for this can be seen in the diagram shown opposite.
Take a red wire and connect between the HT pad on the 5687 board and one of the B+ pads on the M2 Power Supply board.
Take a black wire and connect between the HT GND pad on the 5687 board and the GND pad on the M2 Power Supply board.
It is a good idea to connect to one board and twist the wires together - making a twisted pair, before connecting to the other board.
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Page 66
As you can see from the diagram, the Black leads from each of the transformers connect to a B+ pad on the M2 Power Supply board.
The Red lead from the Right output transformer connects to the R TX pad on the 5687 board.
The Red lead from the Left output transformer connects to the L TX pad on the 5687 board.
This type of output transformer has a Blue and a White lead at its output.
The Blue and White leads from each transformer should be twisted together and the twisted pair connected to its relative RCA output connector.
Connect the Blue lead to the RCA‟s earth tag. Connect the White lead to the RCA‟s signal tag.
Note that the diagram only shows a „shortened‟ version of
the connections for clarity. In reality, you will be taking these leads from the front of the chassis, all the way to the back of the chassis.
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Page 67
The picture on the far left shows the Primaries (or input) of the transformer.
GREEN Wire – connects to GROUND on the 5687 Board.
BLACK WIRE – connects to HT on the 5687 board.
RED Wire – connects to RTX for right channel, LTX for Left Channel.
The picture on the far left shows the secondaries (or output) leads of the transformer.
These leads will connect to the XLR and RCA outputs.
For RCA operation each transformer will connect to the output RCA via the yellow (GND) and orange (signal).
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Page 68
Install the toggle switch provided at the back of the chassis in the bottom left corner position that is available after the rear faceplate has been installed.
We are going to hook up 3 wires to the 3 positions on the Digital board as shown here.
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Page 69
This picture shows how the pins on the back of the switch are connected to their relevant position on the digital board.
Here you can see the wiring between the switch and the Digital Board.
This will now allow us to toggle between the CON1 input and the CON2 input.
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Page 70
To connect the RCA input you will want to use the Coaxial cable length supplied.
Strip the outer casing to expose the grounding shield as shown opposite.
Separate the ground shield and twist together.
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Page 71
Now TIN the shield by adding solder to it. Now repeat this process at the other end of the cable.
This picture shows how the solid core will fit into CON1 and the shield will be soldered to the pad beside it.
This picture shows how the other end of the cable will connect to the RCA connector. The RCA connector must first be attached to the rear panel as follows:
Install the single RCA into the back panel in the top left corner of the 4 positions available and then solder the Co axial cable to the RCA.
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Page 72
If using the USB input then you will want to examine the three holes in the “XLR” footprint on the Digital Board.
You will notice that there are three holes that the XLR would normally fit into – this is where we are going to hook up the USB inputs.
To prepare for USB connection you will need to put a jumper from the circular pad in the center to the rectangular pad on the right.
This is the GROUND connection and the signal from the USB goes to the loan OVAL pad.
This picture shows the connection of the USB (signal – red) to the Digital Board input.
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Page 73
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Page 74
A-
-13V
A+
+13V
D+
13V
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