Audacity Models Tiger 50 User Manual

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Page 1

Tiger 50 Remote Control Model Helicopter - Assembly and Maintenance Manual

CCPM

Cyclic Collective Pitch Mixing

. . . .

PLEASE READ THIS MANUAL FULLY AND CAREFULLY!

This helicopter model is not a toy and is not suited for children. Co

ntact with the rotating parts of this model helicopter may cause bodily harm and/or death as well as property damage. You,

and you alone, are responsible for the safe operation of this remote controlled model helicopter. Audacity Models assumes no liability for harm or damage that could occur from the assembly and/or use/misuse of this product.

This manual does not serve as a final and total instruction in the safe and proper assembly and operation of remote controlled models.

Audacity Models . . . where performance exceeds expectations!

For technical updates, and additional information visit:

www.audacitymodels.com

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WARNING

INDEX

Assembly Steps

Carefully follow the 8 major assembly steps in the correct sequence.

Page

You are about to embark on a wonderful adventure into the world of remote controlled (R/C) models. However, this helicopter model is not a toy and is not suited for children. A properly assembled and operated remote controlled model helicopter can bring many hours of enjoyment and pleasure, but even if properly assembled and operated, the nature of an R/C system means the radio-link between transmitter and receiver may fail, in which case even competent operators are no longer in control. In addition, due to operator neglect or accident, worn or damaged parts may fail causing lack of control. Contact with the rotating parts of this R/C model helicopter may cause bodily harm and/or death as well as property damage. In addition, the overall mass of the model in motion means contact with non-rotating parts may cause bodily harm and/or death as well as property damage

You, and you alone, are responsible for the safe operation of this R/C model helicopter and Audacity Models assumes no liability for harm or damage that could occur from the assembly and/or use/misuse of this product. This manual does not serve as a ﬁnal and total instruction in the safe and proper assembly and operation of remote controlled model helicopters. A

lways have personal supervision by a modeler experienced in the safe and proper handling of R/C model helicopters

1.1 Clutch Bell

1.2 Tail Drive

1.3 Elevator Link

1.4 Fuel Tank

2.1 Servo-Boss

2.2 Main Frame

2.3 Avionics Platforms

3.1 Landing Gear

3.2 Main Gear & Shaft

3.3 Engine Mount & Fan

3.4 Clutch & Extension

3.5 Engine & Start Shaft

3.6 Hex Adapter / Muffler

4.1 Swashplate / Washout

4.2 Head & Flybar Arm

4.3 Flybar Installation

4.5 Rotor Control Rods

5.1 Tail Gear Box & Belt

6 7 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 13 14 14 15

17 18

4.4 Flybar Paddles

8.3 Canopy & Windshield

8.2 Main Blades

8.1 Blade Balance

7.2 Linkages (Starboard)

7.1 Linkages (Por

6.4 Avionics Isolation

6.3 T/R Pushrod Guides

6.2 Tail Rotor Pushrod

6.1 Servo Installation

5.9 Boom Support Clam

5.8 Tail Boom Suppor

5.7 Tail Boom Assembly

5.6 Ve

rtical Fin

5.5 Tail Rotor Grip

5.4 Tail Rotor Hu

5.3 Tail Pitch Leve

5.2 Tail Output Shaf

19 19

20 21

22 22 23 24

24 25 26 27 28 29 29

0.0 Preparation For Assembly

1-5

9.0 Set-up Tips

11.0 Exploded Views & Parts List

12.0 Accessorie

44-5

30-4

59-61

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ITEMS NEED TO COMPLETE

Helicopter Fuel (15%-30% Nitro)

6mm Hex Start Shaf

Cyclic/Collectiv

e Servo Control Horn

Servo Extensions (2 each - 4”

Long)

12”

Fuel Tubing

(1/8” Silicone)

Fuel Filter (3-way

)

1.2V Ni-Start Batter

12V Gell-Cell Batter

and Electric Starter

50-class Glo-Fuel Engine

Drive Washer Not Included with model helicopter

Glo-Fuel Pump

6-channel - or greate

r R/C Helicopter System w/120

CCPM capabilities

Gyroscop

(x3)

Page 4

Phillips Screw Driver

Nut Drivers (4mm/5.5mm/7mm)

Allen Drivers (1.5mm/2mm/2.5mm/3mm

)

Drill Bit 1/16”

ger - or - Reamer

Small Hammer

ench (5.5mm/6mm)

xan Scissors

Needle-nose Pliers

Hobby Knif

Ruler (metric) Greater Than 30cm

4-way Wrench (8-12mm)

Pitch Gaug

Thread Locker Is Used To Keep Assemblies Tight As Vibration May Cause Them To Loosen

Semi-permanent BLUE Thread Locker

Due to the vibrations caused by operation,

nuts, bolts, and set screws may have a tendency to loosen. Repeated tightening is not the solution, instead, the careful application of thread locker is required. Thread lock

er works something like a glue. There are various types of thread locker, from permanent

types which ar

e usually RED in color, to semi-permanent types which are usually BLUE in color. BLUE thread locker is what is recommended. Thread locker is not needed with nylon-lock nuts, nor where metal screws thread into plastic. Finally, be careful to remove all traces of oil or grease by applying a degreaser or acetone to bolts prior to assembly - clean with a paper towel until all traces are gone.

NOTE: Use care when using thread locker near bearing areas as contamination may ruin the bearing and cause it to seize. Never use thread locker on metal to plastic

Optional Tools and Accessories:

- Dial Indicator

- Ball Link Pliers

- Piston Lo

cking Tool

- Calipers

- 10mm deep-well thin wall socket

- 2 ea. - 5/16” or 8mm 1/4” drive socket

- 2 ea. - 1/4” drive short extensions and 1/4” handles or drives

- one sheet of thin typing paper

TOOLS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY

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Various size nuts, bolts, set screws, and washers are used in the Tiger 50 helicopter. Metric dimensions are given, first specifying the diameter of the bolt or screw, then the length of the bolt or screw. Washers and nuts are identified by the ID (inner diameter) of the piece. Bearings are identified in order, by ID, (inner diameter), then OD (outer diameter), then W (width). Below are some examples of the types of hardware used.

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut

M2mm Hex Nu

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw M2x8mm Self-tapping Screw

M4x4mm Set Screw

M3mm Lock Washer

M3mm Flat Washer

* NOTE: Do not use thread locker when a metal screw goes into plastic as this may damage the plastic and cause failure.

Bearing L-1910ZZ M10x19x7mm (ID,

OD, W )

HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION

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1.1

CLUTCH BELL

1.2

TAIL DRIVE

* NOTE: Beveled side faces belt-side of pulley.

* NOTE: Thoroughly clean the shaft-threads and the hole-threads of any swarf (tiny metal shavings), before applying thread locker to ensure precise alignment between the pinion gear and clutch bell. Use special care to prevent thread locker from entering the bearing!

10T Pinion Gear 1 : 8.9 Ratio

Clutch Bell Assembly

Bearing L-1910ZZ

* NOTE: Use a rocking side-to-side motion to slip bearing onto shaft

* NOTE: Use a rotating motion to twist the the clutch bell assembly simultaneously.

M3x6mm Socket Head Bolt (x1)

M3mm Flat Washer (x1)

M3x6mm Scocket Head Bolt

M3mm Flat Wa

sher

ont Tail Belt Pulley

Bearing R-1960ZZ

Tail Driv

Pinion Gear

Bearing R-1960Z

* NOTE: It can take several hours for the thread locker to dr

y after application - do not use assembly until it’s completly set.

* NOTE: Use special care to prev

ent thread locker from entering the bearings!

Bearing R-1960ZZ M6x19x6mm (x2)

Bearing L-1910ZZ M10x19x7mm

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1.3

ELEVATOR LINK

1.4

FUEL TANK

14.5mm Long Ball Arm (x1)

Elevator Arm Pin (x1)

M2x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M2mm Flat Washer (x2)

* NOTE

: Mold marks

must face aft - toward the swashplate ball.

Fore Af

* VERIFY: swashplate arm pivots freely on the elevator arm.

Elevator Arm

Elevator Arm Bushing

tFore

Swashplate Ar

m Link

14.5mm Long Ball Ar

Elevator Arm Pi

* NOTE: Use a small hammer and tap gently to drive the elevator arm pin to join the swashplate arm link to the elevator arm. Ensure equal amounts of pin protrude on both sides of the swashplate arm link.

Fuel Feed Line: 1/8” Silicone Fuel Tubing (not included) - Du-Bro Medium (blue) Silicone - No. 197 recommended.

* PRO TIP: For high nitro use, replace the included small diameter silicone fuel pickup line with 1/8” ID silicone fuel tubing.

Replace yearly!

Clunk Pickup

Muffler Pressure Line: 1/

8” Silicone

Fuel Tubing (not included)

Inspect daily - replace yearly!

Fuel Tank - 14 oz practical capacity

* NOTE

: Ensure the clunk

swings freely by providing a minimum 1/1

6” of clearance

from the aft fuel tank wall

Flat Washer

Rubber Tank Gromme

Feed Nipple

* NOTE: Fuel pickup line length is critical, measure carefully!

87mm 1mm

* PRO TIP: add a small dab of silicone RTV at the four tank mounting points when you assemble the fuel tank into the main frames.

* NOTE: Check fuel tank for swarf before assembling it!

Page 8

* NOTE: Notches must face toward each other!

Main Frame - Right

Main Frame - Left

Servo Mount Boss

* NOTE: Do not glue the servo

boss

plates into place!

2.1

SERVO-BOSS

Page 9

Elevator Arm Bushing 32mm (x1)

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M3x38mm Socket Head Bolt (x16)

M3x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x1)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x16)

Bearing L-1910ZZ (x2) - M10x19x7mm Bearing L-1950ZZ (x1) - M5x19x6mm

Bearing L-1950ZZ (x1)

Bearing L-1910ZZ (x2)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

* NOTE: Use care with thread locker!

Tail Drive Pinion Assembly

M3x38mm Socket Head Bolt (x16)

(Step 1.2)

(Step 1.1)

(Step 1.3

)

(Step 1.4)

Elevator Arm

Clutch Bell Assembly

M3x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x1)

Fuel Tank Rubber Grommet (x4)

Elevator Arm Bushing 32mm (x1)

Fuel Tank Assembly

* PRO TIP: add a small dab of silicone RTV at the f

our fuel tank mounting points when you assemble the fuel tank assembly into the main frame assembly.

2.2

MAIN FRAME

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2.3

AVIONICS PLATFORMS

M3x10mm Socket head Bolt (x8)

Cabin Mount Stand-off 20mm (x2)

Cabin Mount Stand-off 10mm (x2)

M3x14 Set Screw (x2)

M3x12 Set Screw (x2)

Cabin Mount Stand-off 20mm (x2)

M3x14 Set Screw (x2

)

Gyroscope Platform

M3x10mm Socket head Bolt (x8)

* NOTE: Don’t use thread locker on plastic parts!

Radio Platform

Cabin Mount Stand-off 10mm (x2)

M3x12 Set Screw (x2)

Use thread locker on set screw, install it evenly into standoff and let it dry before assembly to frame

Page 11

M3x15mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

M3x6mm Set Screw (x4)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x4)

M3mm Flat Washer (x8)

Antenna Guide Tube

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x4)

M3x15mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

M3x6mm Set Screw (x4)

Skid Cap (x4)

Landing Skid (x2)

Landing Gear Strut (x2)

Fore

* NOTE: Minimum length = 1-3/16”

* NOTE: Use a small dab

of silicone RTV as glue to help retain sk

id caps.

* PRO TIP: Use nylon zip-ties instead of socket head bolts and nylon lock nuts to secure landing gear struts to the main frame - this helps prevent greater damage in case you slam dunk your helicopter when practicing 3D.

M3mm Flat Washer (x8)

1-3/1

”

3.1

LANDING GEAR

Page 12

M4x4mm Set Screw (x3)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x1)

Mast Stoppe

M4x4mm Set Screw (x3)

Long

Shor

Main Mast

Evenly tighten the M4x4 set screws in the mast stopper (use thread locker)

The beveled edge of the mast stopper faces the bearing

Gently draw up the main mast to remove the slack.

NOTE

Autorotation Clutch

Nylon Lo

Nut (x1)

M3x22 Socket Head Shoulder Bolt (x1)

* PRO TIP: The 89T - Main Gear (has 89-teeth) and when meshed with the 10T - Pinion Gear results in a 8.9:1 final drive ratio

3.2

MAIN GEAR & SHAFT

Page 13

3.3

ENGINE MOUNT & FAN

M3x15mm Socket Head Bolts (x4)

M3mm Flat Washer (x4)

M3mm Lock Washer (x4)

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolts (x4)

* NOTE: Do not use thread locker on the crankshaft engine nut.

Crankshaft Engine Nut

Clutch Hub

oling Fan

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

Not all engines will include a prop-drive yet it is required.

46-50 class engine is not supplied in #22501 or #22502

Engine Moun

M3x15mm Socket Head Bolts (x4)

M3mm Lock Washer (x4)

M3mm Flat Washer (x4)

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x1)

Start Shaf

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt )x2)

M2mm Hex Nut (x1)

Stainless Steel Ball Joint (x1)

M2mm Hex Nut (x1)

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x1)

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x2

)

Clutch Assembly

* PRO TIP: Use a dial indicator to check for excessive runout. Beware false readings by measuring at the shoes. Take measurements at the hub. Try both rotating the assembly 180o or just loosening and tightening bolts as just that may make a difference.

* PRO TIP: Using a marker, place a dot on the clutch hub - then use a dial indicator to check for excessive runout. Time spend here may pay off in a smoother running helicopter. Simply loosening and rotating the assembly as little as a 1/8 turn can make a difference

* PRO TIP: If a commercial piston-locking tool isn’t av

ailable, a plastic handle from a toothbrush - used to

block the piston - can aid in tightening the engine nut.

Further details at:

www.audacitymodels.com

* PRO TIP: A 1/4” drive 10mm deep well thin wall socket is perf

ect for

engine nut.

3.4

CLUTCH & EXTENSION

Page 14

3.5

ENGINE & START SHAFT

3.6

HEX ADAPTER/MUFFLER

M3x30mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M4x4mm Set Screw (x1)

Hex Start Adapter

M4x4mm Set Screw (x1)

Muffler (option)

M3x30mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

* NOTE: Slide muffler mounting bolts into engine crankcase before mounting engine to the main frame.

1/8” Silicone Fuel Tubing (option)

* NOTE: Installation of a fuel filter is highly recommended (option)

* VERIFY: Muffler pressure and fuel feed 1/

8” silicone rubber tubing is a

maintenance item. Inspect daily

* NOTE: Tighten set screw against start shaf

t’s flat.

3-1/2”

4-1/2

”

1-1/2”

4”

0 431 2

M3x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

M3mm Cap Bolt Holder (x4)

M3x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

Start Shaf

Angled - INCORREC

Too Low - INCORRECT

Too High - INCORRECT

CORRECT

There is a slight amount of adjustment for the engine mount to fit within the main frames. This adjustment is for the purpose of aligning the clutch. The clutch MUST fit squarely within the clutch bell to ensure proper engagement of the clutch shoes against the friction material. Use care when fitting to align as well as possible

* PRO TIP: Use a thin strip of typing paper wrapped once around clutch for alighnment.

VERIFY

* PRO TIP: Lightly snug engine mount bolts, align clutch, then tighten bolts.

Page 15

Complete Assembly

VERIFY

The washout links must connect to the two longer-stud balls on the swashplate inner ring

* PRO TIP: Lubricate the washout slider with a few drops of light machine oil such as 3-in-1 daily.

Washout Assembly

120o Swashplate Assembly

Guide Pin

Slot for guide pi

Hollow Main Shaf

t (lighter & stronger than solid shaf

Greater Stability - inner holes

of washout mixing arms

Greater Ag

ility - outer holes

of washout mixing arms

4.1

SWASHPLATE/WASHOUT

* PRO TIP: For extreme performance, or 3D ﬂight, extend both of the short inner balls to match the length of the longer balls.

Page 16

4.2

HEAD & FLYBAR ARM

4.3

FLYBAR INSTALLATION

M3x20mm Socket Head Shoulder Bolt (x1)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x1)

M2x10mm Phillips Head Screw (x2)

Stainless Steel Ball (x2)

M3x5mm Set Screw (x2)

Rotor Head Assembly

Fly Bar Stopper

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x1)

M3x20mm Socket Head Shoulder Bolt (x1)

* PRO TIP: This shoulder bolt is also known as a Jesus bolt.

M3x5mm Set Screw (x2

)

M2x10mm Phillips Head Screw (x2)

Stainless Steel Ball (x2)

* NOTE: Ensure the rotor

hub pin engages the washout base groove before securing the rotor head onto the main shaft.

M4x6mm Set Screw (x2)

Center the flybar in the flybar control arms

VERIFY

M4x6mm Set Screw (x2

)

* NOTE: Adjust so that both A&B sides are exactly the same length.

Page 17

4.4

FLYBAR PADDLES

ROTOR CONTROL RODS

4.5

ROTOR CONTROL RODS

M3mm Nylon Locking Nut (x2)

M4x6mm Set Screw (2)

3x70mm weight (x2)

* NOTE: Flybar paddles - short leading edge section forward - clockwise rotation.

Flybar Paddle

3x70mm weight (x2)

M4x6mm Set Screw (2)

M3mm Nylon Lo

cking Nut (x2)

Thread each flybar paddle onto flybar until 5mm of threaded rod protrudes beyond the end

VERIFY

* PRO TIP: For greater agility, don’t install the weight inside the flybar paddles

* NOTE

: Both flybar paddles plus the

flybar control arm should (all three) be perfectly parallel to each other

A - Seesaw Arm to Main Blade Grip

M2.3x13mm Threaded Rod (x2)

SHORT - HD Ball Link Ends (x2)

B - Washout Arm to Flybar Control

M2.3x13mm Threaded Rod (x2) LONG - HD Ball Link Ends (x2)

C - Swashplate to Seesaw Arm

M2.3x40mm Threaded Rod (x2)

LONG - HD Ball Link Ends (x2)

- Assemble three pairs of pushrods.

WARNING

The HD Ball Link Ends are designed to fit one way only.

Snap the

HD link ov

er the ball with the HD facing outward - away

from

the ball.

Page 18

5.2

TAIL OUTPUT SHAFT

5.1

TAIL GEAR BOX & BELT

Tail Boom (L=690mm)

Shor

Slot

Long Slot

Tail Output Shaft Bearing L-1350ZZ (x2) 5x13x4mm

Tail Gear Case (L)

Tail Gear Case (R)

Tail Drive Belt S3M-1596

M2.6x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x3)

M2.6mm Nylon Lock Nut (x2)

M2.6x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M2.6mm Nylon Lock Nut (x2)

M3x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x3)

Tail Output Shaft Assembly

* NOTE

: Ensure the bearing is

in place, then slip the tail output shaft assembly through the tail drive belt and seat it

* NOTE: Seat the tail gear case fully onto the tail boom before snugging the bolts.

Bearing L-1350ZZ M5x13x4mm (x2)

* PRO TIP: Use care when tightening the bolts into the tail gear case - as soon as the head contacts the case half, that’s it. It’s easy to overtighten and strip the threads. A temporary repair is to use a drop of medium CA in the hole then re-install the screw.

Page 19

5.4

TAIL ROTOR HUB

5.3

TAIL PITCH LEVER

Stainless Steel Ball (x1)

Tail Lever Bushing (x1)

Tail Pitch Plat

Tail Pitch Link Pin

Tail Pitch Link

Tail Lever Bushing (x1)

Tail Pitch Control Leve

Stainless Steel Ball (x1)

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x1

)

VERIFY

* NOTE: Ensure tail pitch control lever pins fully engage the slot in the tail slide ring assembly.

M4x4mm Set Screw (x2)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x2)

Bearing, R840ZZ M4x8x4mm (x4)

M4x4mm Set Screw (x2)

Tail Slide Ring Assembly

Tail Rotor Center Hub

Bearing, R840ZZ (x4)

M3mm Nylon Lo

ck Nut (x2)

* NOTE

: Ensure the set screws

seat fully within the holes at the end of the tail output shaf

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x1)

Pins

Page 20

5.6

VERTICAL FIN

5.5

TAIL ROTOR GRIP

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x2)

M2x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

M3x15mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M2mm Hex Nut (x4)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x2)

Stainless Steel Ball (x2)

Stainless Steel

Ball (x2) M2x8mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

M2mm Hex Nut (x4)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x2)

Tail Rotor Grip -

Tail Rotor Grip - A

M3x15mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

Tail Rotor Blade

M3x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

* NOTE

: Use care to not

overtighten the socket head bolts as they may crack the vertical fin or strip out the threads in the tail gear case

M3x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

* PRO TIP: Snug the tail rotor blade bolts, but don’t tighten so much the blades don’t swing freely under their own weight.

Page 21

5.7

TAIL BOOM ASSEMBLY

M3x38mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x4)

M3x4mm Set Screw (x2)

* NOTE: Ensure the orientation and the tension of the tail drive belt are correc

t. Verify the tail rotor output shaft is perpendicular to the main shaft by sighting from behind. Then set the tension in the belt as noted below and tighten both the bolts in the main frame plus the set screws securely against the tail boom

M3x4mm Set Screw (x2)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x4)

M3x38mm Socket Head Bolt (x4

)

VERIFY

TENSION: Ensure there is a little slack in the tail rotor drive belt. Reach in with your fingertip, or with the tip of a screwdriver, and push one side against the other. They should almost touch without great effort.

TENSION

ORIENTATION: The tail drive belt must be oriented

correc

tly to ensure the proper rotation of the tail rotor output shaft. There is a 90o clockwise twist when viewed from the front of the tail boom assembly.

ORIENTATION

Page 22

5.8

TAIL BOOM SUPPORTS

5.9

BOOM SUPPORT CLAMP

M2.6x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

M2.6mm Nylon Lo

ck Nut (x4)

M2.6mm Nylon Lock Nut (x4)

M2.6x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x4)

Tail Boom Support End (x4)

Tail Boom Support (x2

)

M3x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M3x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

M3x22mm Socket Head Bolt (x1)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x3)

M3x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x2

)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x3)

M3x22mm Socket Head Bolt (x1)

Tail Boom Suppor

Clamp (Upper)

Tail Boom Suppor

Clamp (Lower)

M3x12mm Socket Head Bolt (x2

)

M3mm Nylon Lock Nut (x3)

Page 23

6.1

SERVO INSTALLATION

M2.6mm Flat Washer (x12)

M2.6x10mm Self Tapping Screw (x12)

Round Rubber Grommet (x2)

Receiv

Switch

Switch Plate & Screw

* NOTE: Do not overtighten screws.

Receiv

Switch

M2.6mm Flat Washer (x12)

Throttle Serv

Swash Left Serv

Swash Front Serv

M2.6x10mm Self Tapping Screw (x12)

Swash Right Serv

M2.6x10mm Self Tapping Screw (x12)

M2.6mm Flat Washer (x12)

Rudder Serv

* PRO TIP:

Due to the sharing of the flight loads

between the three swashplate servos used by an eCCPM system, the individual servos do not have to be tremendously strong.

The Tiger 50 has

been ex

tensively flown with standard 40-oz ball bearing servos - with excellent results. However, ex

treme performance pilots will notice a nice

improv

ement when upgrading to digital servos. In order of importance, upgrade to digital on the tail rotor first, then the swashplate serv

os.

* PRO TIP:

Do not overcompress

the servo’s rubber grommets. They serve as vibration isolators. Also, make sure to use the brass eyelets (inserted from the bottom) to fix the compressed grommet height

Page 24

6.3

T/R PUSHROD GUIDES

6.2

TAIL ROTOR PUSHROD

T/R Pushrod Bushings (x4)

LONG - HD Ball Link Ends (x2)

675mm

Length when servo arm and tail rotor control arm are set perpendicular to the tail boom - neutral.

* NOTE: Slip pushrod bushings onto pushrod before the second ball link.

T/R pushrod = 675m

between the link ends

M3x10mm Socket Head Bolt (x2)

* NOTE: Set horizontal fin perpendicular to main shaf

Horizontal Fin

T/R (tailrotor) Pushro

LONG - HD Ball Link Ends (x2)

M2x8mm Self Tapping Screw (x3)

M2x8mm Self Tapping Screw (x4)

* NOTE: The goal is to use the 3-positions of adjustment to create the most free path.

LONG - HD Ball Link Ends (x2)

T/R Pushrod Guide

110mm

130mm

* PRO TIP: Upgrade the pushrod and guides to an aftermarket one-piece carbon fiber pushrod without guides.

* PRO TIP:

After you

complete adjustment, add a drop of thin CA at the top of each guide to “spot weld” it to the boom. It’s easy to later break the guide free

Page 25

6.4

AVIONICS ISOLATION

Gyroscope

Receiver

Foam Rubber (not included

)

4.8V 4-cell Battery P

ack

6.0V 5-cell

* PRO TIP: Use #64 rubber bands to secure avionics package. These are a maintenance item and should be checked during the preflight.

* NOTE

: Use rubber

grommets to isolate the receiver switch from vibration induced failure.

* PRO TIP

: Use a 4-cell battery pack for most uses.

Extreme performance pilots seeking the ultimate in servo speed may wish to use either a 5-cell battery pack, or even a 6-cell regulated (to 6.0V) battery pack. However, it’s important to realize that a 5-cell 1000mAh pack will not last as long as a 4-cell 1000mAh pack due to the higher drain caused by running the ser

vos on higher voltage. The prudent pilot will check batteries before each and every flight with a battery checker which, places a simulated load on the battery pack.

CAUTION

The importance of protecting the avionics package (receiver, gyro amplifier,

governor, and battery pack) from the primary vibrations caused by the engine and the secondary vibrations induced by the main and tail rotors cannot be overemphasized. These forces may lead to premature failure of the avionics components leading to intermittent or permanent loss of control and possibly property damage, injury, or even death. Use a high quality wrap such as Du-Bro No. 514 - 1/2

” (12.7mm) thick foam rubber. Do not use plastic bubble-wrap, open-cell foam, or servo tape for mounting these delicate components

* PRO TIP: The gyroscope platform should be cleaned by lightly wiping down with acetone before using the mounting tape supplied by the gyroscope manufacturer.

Page 26

7.1

LINKAGES (PORT)

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x3)

Stainless Steel Ball (x3)

M2 Hex Nut (x3)

THROTTL

Ball at 12.5mm

2.3x30mm Threaded Rod

M2x8mm Phillips Head Scre

Stainless Steel Ball

Stainless Steel Ball (x3)

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x3)

M2 Hex Nut (x3)

M2 Hex Nut

SWASHPLATE Ball at 20mm

2.3x50mm Threaded Rod

2.3x50mm Threaded Ro

THROTT

LE SWASHPLATE

ELEVATOR

ELEVAT

Ball at 20mm

Throttle Ar

* PRO TIP: The goal is to av

oid differential throw by ensuring a symetrical throw from wide open throttle (WOT) to idle position (IP) instead of closed throttle (CT). Neutral (N) is mid-throttle stick (half throttle = hover); all arms are perpendicular to the pushrod

THRO

TTLE LINKAGE SETUP

SERVO ARMS

SERVO ARM

MID T/C STICK IS NEUTRAL

* NOTE: Use thread locker

on servo arm ball screws.

Page 27

7.2

LINKAGES (STARBOARD)

M2.3x40mm Threaded Rod

SWASHPLATE

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw (x2)

Stainless Steel Ball (x2)

SWASH SERVO ARM

T/R SERVO ARM

M2mm Hex Nut (x2)

M2mm Hex Nut

Stainless Steel Ball

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw

M2mm Hex Nut

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw

Stainless Steel Ball

T/R SERVO ARM

TAIL ROTOR PITCH CONTROL LEVER

* PRO TIP: The goal is to avoid differential throw and ensure a symmetrical throw from full-left to full-right T/R throw. Neutral is mid-T/C (throttle/collective) stick (hover for a conventional setup), or 3/4 and 1/4 T/C stick (upright and inverted hover). Hover position is neutral, i.e. when both control arms should be perpendicular to the pushrod

* NOTE: Use thread locker on servo arm ball screws.

Page 28

8.2

MAIN BLADES

BLADE BALANCE

8.1

M4x30mm Socket Head Shoulder Bolt (x2)

M4mm Nylon Lock Nuts (x2)

600mm

M4mm Nylon Lock Nuts (x2)

* VERIFY: Ensure the leading edge is forw

ard for clockwise main blade rotation.

* PRO TIP: The main rotor blades are tight enough when you can move them by hand, yet when you hold the helicopter on its side (with the blades extended), they do not swing loose from their own weight

Equalize Blade CG (center of gravity)

Equalize Blade Weight

Lightly mark CG of both blades.

* NOTE: Add tape at the CG of light blade until assembly hangs perfectly level.

* PRO TIP:

Use a drop of

white paint on one blade grip in which to always install the same blade.

M4x30mm Socket Head Shoulder Bolt (x2

)

1. First figure out where the CG is for each blade and mark it. The blade with the CG furthest from the bolthole is the master blade - mark it M.

2. Next, add tape to the tip of the other blade until the CG

point measures the exact same (from the bolthole)

as M. When the CG is the same as M’s, mark the CG.

* PRO TIP: The sharper the edge you balance the blade on, the more precisely you can find the CG. A single edge razor blade works great if you are both patient and precise enough in your work.

Master (M) blade had CG furthest from bolt hole.

Add tape (to move CG outward) until the CG is equal to M.

The next step is static balance - making both blades weigh the same. In the first two steps we made the CG point of both blades exactly the same. Now we must make both blades weigh the same. The only way to add weight to the lighter blade - and not affect the CG - is to add the ex

tra

weight on the CG of the lighter blade (tha

t’s why you made the mark on both blades). Because manufacturers make an effort to ensure both blades weigh the same, it

’s

likely you wo

n’t add tape to M -this technique will work for

individual blades from different packages, which do

n’t

weight the same to begin with

3. Assemble the blades on a table so they

’re perfect parallel. Perform static balance by adding tape at the CG mark of the lighter of the two blades until they hang level.

Further tips at:

www.audacitymodels.com

Add tape to lighter blad

e’s CG

* PRO TIP: Bolt them together with a short length of 4mm Threaded Rod plus a pair of 4mm Flat Washers and 4mm Hex Nuts (not supplied).

* PRO TIP: For wood blades,

remove the blade covering material, and use thick cyanoacrylate glue to join the plastic par

ts.

Page 29

8.3

CANOPY & WINDSHIELD

Canopy Mount Grommets (x4)

M2x8mm Self-tapping Screws (x6)

Canopy M

ount

Grommets (x4)

M2x8mm Self Tapping Screws (x6)

Canopy

Windshield

* NOTE

: Cut to the molded trim

line using Lexan-type scissors and fasten with self-tapping screws

* NOTE:

Clockwse

main rotor rotation

* NOTE: Countercockwse tail rotor rotation

* NOTE: Use small drill bit or auger to make holes.

Page 30

For the Tiger 50, the steps are ﬁrst a symmetrical mechanical set-up followed by any adjustments for the lighter duty needs of the upright regimen (accomplished in the radio). It doesn’t get easier than this!

CYCLIC & COLLECTIVE - MECHANICAL SET-UP:

Mechanically it’s more important to have CCPM linkages at their respective neutral position in a model set up for symmetrical ﬂight. You can later adjust your model for a predominantly upright ﬂight regimen simply by using the radio system. The converse - setting up mechanically for upright ﬂight and using the radio system to adjust for a symmetrical set-up isn’t a sound practice.

The Tiger 50 helicopter is designed for a full-on switchless-inverted symmetrical set-up from the beginning - there are no compromises for the more rigorous 3D duty! By the way, there’s still a switch to throw during ﬂight, but the switch referenced doesn’t mean the same thing. The term switchless inverted is a holdover from days when ﬂipping a switch actually reversed the controls!

The steps are the same for all models, regardless of intended duty - be it extreme performance, or sport. Building the linkages per sections 7.1 and 7.2 means all the mechanical linkages will be at the neutral position when the control sticks are in their neutral position. All that is left is to ensure that each servo arm is at its respective neutral positions - 90o to the pushrod. (Figure 1)

This segment of the manual deals with setting up your helicopter in preparation for ﬂight. The set-up includes both mechanical and electronic adjustments to the model.

There are two prevailing schools of thought regarding model helicopter set-up. One sets up a helicopter primarily oriented for upright ﬂight. The other sets up the helicopter for symmetrical ﬂight - this simply means the model is as liable to hover inverted as upright. This ﬂight regimen is also known as extreme aerobatics, or 3D ﬂight.

If you are a beginner, you will have an easier time of learning to ﬂy with a set-up oriented toward upright ﬂight because there is a greater range of pitch to throttle/collective (T/C) stick motion. The T/C stick travels between low and high pitch and hover occur with the T/C stick in the middle of the full range (the model’s usually upright).

Extreme performance pilots, on the other hand, demand a set-up which is fully symmerical, i.e. one in which 0o pitch occurs in the middle of the T/C stick range (instead of hover) and full T/C (max) pitch occurs at both ends of the T/C stick range (in both the positive and negative pitch directions). Upright hover thus occurs at 3/4 T/C stick and inverted hover at 1/4 T/C stick. This ﬂight regimen is more difﬁcult for the beginner to manage as the range between mid-stick (0o) and maximum (+) pitch is compressed by half. Of course, we assume beginners won’t be trying any inverted maneuvers - on purpose that is!

Swashplate is level both fore/aft and side-to-side

Swashplate servos are at neutral and the pushrods are 90o to the servo arms

Servo plugged into channel 1

Servo plugged into channel 2

Servo plugged into channel 6

Figure 1

9.0

SET-UP TIPS

Page 31

9.1

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

While mechanical methods, or even 4-servo CCPM are very practical methods of inputting controls to the swashplate system (fore/aft cyclic, side-to-side cyclic, plus collective), greater overall system precision and reliability results from the use of 3-servo CCPM. That’s largely because mechanical systems have much greater slop, or play in the system - which increases with wear. However, servo failure is more likely than mechanical failure. Thus, inherent in the design of the Tiger 50 is the elegantly very simple to understand concept of reducing the number of parts in the model to increase reliability (fewer things which can possibly fail). As it turns out, this holds true for the electronics as well - hence, it’s easy enough to see where failure of a system with 3 servos is 33% less likely than one with 4.

Mechanical set-up is very important insofar as ensuring the linkages form 90o angles to the servo arms at neutral. Equally important is the idea of mechanical leverage. An even application of leverage to the bearings of the servo occurs when the ball links are installed on the inside face of the three CCPM servo arms at a distance of 20mm from center. (Figure 3)

Perpendicular to the tail boom

Parallel to the tail boom

Figure 2

Cyclic linkage (starboard)

Swashplate

re/aft servo

Cyclic servo (por

Fore/aft and cyclic servo arms

M2mm Hex Nut

Stainless Steel Ball

M2x8 Phillips Head Screw

Trim ex

cess servo arms (optional)

* NOTE: Use thread locker

Figure 3

* NOTE: Stainless balls are installed on the underside of the servo arms.

Look down on the swashplate from above and it is apparent the Tiger 50 uses a 120o eCCPM system as there are three servos (spaced at 120o) controlling the outer ring of the swashplate. The inner ring, however, is spaced at 90o per usual convention. (Figure 2)

Page 32

THROTTLE - MECHANICAL SET-UP:

Mechanically setting up the throttle is next. The pushrod length shown for neutral position is approximately the hover throttle opening also, but this dimension is really taken to be mid-point between WOT and idle (not fully closed). This means you set it up with this length, but plan to adjust it after the helicopter has been ﬂown - but before making really precise electronic adjustments to the throttle curves. (Figure 5)

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.2

* NOTE: HD ball-links are uni-directional. This means the side of the link that has HD on it must always face the side of the ball which has the screw head.

Verify pushrod lengths for the three CCPM servos. Also verify the HD-mark on each of the plastic ball links face the screw-head side of the ball. (Figure 4)

* NOTE: Ensure the pushrods (linkages) for the fore/aft servo, both side-to-side cyclic servos, as well as the T/R (tailrotor) pushrod are 90o to the servo arms when at their neutral positions.

Figure 4

Figure 5

T/R Servo Ar

M2mm Hex Nut

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw

Stainless Steel Ball

675mm

Throttle Servo Arm

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw

Stainless Steel Ball

M2mm Hex Nut

* NOTE: Dimensions given for OS Max 50 SX-H at middle of travel - this is neutral position for linkage. This is between WOT and idle - not between WOT and completely closed .

* NOTE: Dimensions given are for hover as the neutral position for linkage. This is not with T/R blades at flat or 0 pitch, it’s at hover pitch.

Page 33

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.3

T/R Servo Ar

M2mm Hex Nut

M2x8mm Phillips Head Screw

Stainless Steel Ball

675mm

* NOTE: Dimensions given are for hover as the neutral position for linkage. This is not with T/R blades at flat or 0 pitch, it’s at hover pitch.

TAIL ROTOR - MECHANICAL SET-UP:

Mechanically setting up the tail rotor (T/R) is next. The pushrod length shown for the neutral position is for hovering. Again, this is the point at which both tail rotor control arm and tail rotor servo arm make a 90o to the tail boom. We keep harping about this because otherwise instead of symmetrical throw in the linkage, there is differential throw. This means different motion (more to one side than the other) on each side of neutral - it makes ﬂight and adjustments less predictable. Again, as with the throttle linkage, this given length is a starting point - you may need to make slight adjustments after ﬂying the helicopter model. Also, if you are using a heading-hold or heading-lock gyroscope, this dimension is quite likely accurate enough as is and will not need further adjustment. (Figure 6)

Figure 6

ELECTRONIC SET-UP: Introduction

While we like to think the sequence is to always perform an electronic set-up after mechanical set-up, in fact, the processes interact to a certain degree. For example, in order to perform the mechanical set-up we need for the servos to be plugged into their respective channels and for each servo to be centered, or in its neutral position. We are aided in this process somewhat because we know how long to build each pushrod (for the theoretical center). However, reality intrudes as despite the best efforts of world class engineers and manufacturing processes, the practical effect of the end user installing servos from different manufacturers (and even accessory servo arm manufacturers) means in effect we’re really giving you a really close point from which to start making slight tuning adjustments. The more precisely the neutral position for each servo is set, the closer the initial set up will be to the ﬁnal set-up. In any case, the mechanical and electronic set-up we suggest will be close enough to permit successful test ﬂights from which ﬁne tuning can depart. Next, consult with the radio system’s manual and verify the three CCPM servos are plugged into the receiver - something like this. (Figure 7)

Do the same for the throttle and tail rotor servos - as well as the gyroscope, the switch harness, and the ﬂight pack battery. Once that’s done, ensure you’ve routed the antenna via the antenna tube (3.1) and protected the avionics from vibration (6.4).

Figure 7

Page 34

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.4

ELECTRONIC SET-UP: Background

We’ve discussed the two predominant ﬂight set-ups; one oriented for upright ﬂight and other oriented to symmetrical ﬂight. We’ve also touched on the concept of pitch and throttle curves. Let’s elaborate on all this a bit.

As it turns out, the pure symmetrical set-up is ﬁctional since helicopters initiate and end ﬂight with the engine at idle and the rotor blades stopped. Thus, the symmetrical set-ups shares similarity to the upright oriented set-up in what’s called the Normal Flight Condition, or Normal Mode. However, ﬁrst let’s review how a helicopter ﬂies before we proceed.

For a helicopter to ﬂy it depends on the lift generated by the rotating main blades. These blades are tilted at an angle, just like a fan or a propeller has an angle and hence, as they spin, they move air. Introduce a positive angle into the blades (leading edge higher than the trailing edge) and they produce lift because they push the air downward while simultaneously lifting the helicopter off the ground. The more angle, the faster the helicopter is lifted. But in practice, the practical amount of angle is limited by two things, the horsepower available to spin the main rotor and the angle at which the blades will stall, or stop producing more lift than drag. More on this later.

Similarly, if you introduce a negative angle (or negative pitch as it’s more commonly referred to) into the rotor system, the helicopter will push the air upwards forcing the model onto its landing gear. From this simple fact derives the idea that negative pitch combined with a model whose orientation is upside-down and we have the basis for inverted ﬂight. As it turns out, the helicopter doesn’t care whether it’s right side-up or upside-down!

Examine the airfoil of the main blades and you’ll see a strong resemblance to the airfoil of a wing. That’s because it is a wing! In fact, it’s really not uncommon to refer to helicopters as rotary wing aircraft vs. airplanes known as ﬁxed wing aircraft.

Control of the helicopter is established through

the introduction of additional angles of pitch (both positive and negative) within the overall gross angles we mentioned earlier. Let’s look at an example.

Suppose a helicopter uses 5.5o of pitch to hover (the converse holds true as it would use about the same, or -5.5o i.e. negative pitch to establish a hover inverted and thus, the convention is introduced of indicating when pitch is negative, otherwise, it’s assumed to be positive). Anyway, from a hover, for the helicopter to move forward, the linkages of the rotor system would introduce a little bit more pitch on one side of the rotor disk and remove a bit of pitch from the other. These result in a tilting of the entire rotating disk forward - which would cause the helicopter itself to also tilt forward and thus, move forward. Coming to a stop would entail the reverse, or the tilting the disk aft.

R/C model helicopters use a combination of Bell and Hiller mixing to provide both direct and indirect control over adding and subtracting the small amounts of pitch involved in controlling the rotor disk. It is beyond the scope of this manual to enter into greater technical depth. Let’s return to the idea of blade angles, or pitch, as they relate to stalling the blades.

As it turns out, depending on the airfoil, a blade (or a wing for that matter) stalls between 14o and 18o of pitch, or angle of attack (how much higher the leading edge is related to the trailing edge). Because the main rotor may have as much as 10-11o of pitch during maneuvers, and because the addition of control inputs will increase the pitch on one side of the rotor disk by as much as 5-6o (whilst simultaneously reducing the pitch on the other side, of course - but we’re only concerned with where the blade stalls), we need to beware the possibility of stalling part of the main-rotor disk (causing an extended loss of symmetry in lift). The reason for touching on this is related to the extreme power of 50-class engines when coupled with the agile airframe of the Tiger 50 helicopter which means if you are not careful, you may ﬁnd yourself on the wrong side of the limits imposed by physics! In short, be aware of the fact that there are limits.

Page 35

Below, the pitch curve represents the pitch range from 11o to -11o with mid-stick being 0o. This is the pitch curve of a helicopter, which can perform equally well inverted and right side-up. Either extreme of the joystick represents 11o of deviation from 0o and the upright hover occurs around 3/4-stick while the inverted hover occurs at about 1/4-stick, both with 5.5o pitch. (Figure 9)

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.5

ELECTRONIC SET-UP: Pitch Curves

We suspect that in the course of learning about model helicopters you’ve heard the term pitch curve or throttle curve bandied about. All that’s meant by this is the graphical representation of what happens to a control (servo) when a stick on the transmitter is deﬂected (moved). Let’s see if we can shed some light on this. We’ll begin with pitch curves since they’re easy to visualize and they relate to orientation (upright or symmetrical set-up).

First some terms and deﬁnitions - so that we’re all on the same page. We start by assuming you are using a Mode 2 setup in your transmitter. This is Throttle/Collective as well as the Tail Rotor on the left-hand control stick and the fore/aft as well as the side-to-side cyclic controls on the right-hand control stick. Holding the transmitter in both hands and moving the T/C stick towards you will decreases throttle and collective pitch while moving it away, or up, increases T/C pitch. T/C servos are linked electronically. Push the tail rotor stick to the left and the nose of the heli goes to the left - and vice versa. The rotation caused by the T/R is about the axis of the main rotor, i.e. the helicopter will spin around in circles.

The right-hand joystick controls cyclic pitch (which is the adding and subtracting of pitch from the collective pitch). Cyclic pitch tilts the rotor disk and causes changes in direction. Side-to-side, or aileron, cyclic causes rotation about the longitudinal axis (the length - or tail boom axis) so the machine will roll. As you would expect, move the joystick to the right and the machine will roll to the right. In a similarly fashion, the fore/aft directions for the joystick (or control stick) causes the machine to roll about the fore/aft axis. Pushing the joystick away from you dips the nose and a pull towards you raises the nose. Continue to hold the control and the helicopter will rotate in place about that axis (when combined with the well timed and skillful application of collective pitch in both positive and negative directions as well as some T/R to hold position). Did you expect this to be easy? It’s not - which is why there are more ﬁxed wing pilots than rotating wing pilots! But you can master it.

So what does a pitch curve look like? This is what a collective pitch might look like. (Figure 8)

If you’re thinking, That’s not a curve, that’s a straight line! You’re right as in this case, the pitch curve is a straight line. It’s an example of the pitch curve for a switchless inverted set-up. Let’s put some numbers to the curve to see if it helps.

Low

Stick Position

Servo Position - Pitch

Low

High

Figure 8

Pitch Curve

Stick Position

Pitch

Figure 9

-5.5

Hover

Inverted

Hover

1/4

3/4

1/2

-11

5.5

Idle Up 1 - switchless inverted

Page 36

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.6

The shorthand for the pitch curve in Figure 9 would be -11, 0, 11. It would be understood that we meant -11o ,0o ,11o but the degrees could just as easily be left off. The proper name for the curve in Figure 9 would really be:

Switchless Inverted Pitch Curve, Idle Up 1

The Switchless Inverted part you already understand to mean a set-up for symmetrical ﬂight, while Pitch Curve is now self-explanatory. The Idle Up 1 part refers to the ﬂight mode used for most aerobatics. Depending on the brand radio you select, these names may be different . . .

Futaba-brand radios may refer to Idle Up 1, or I1 and JR-brand radios may refer to Flight Mode 1

. . . but they both mean the very exact same thing!

This brings us to something else. Your radio may, in addition to these ﬂight modes, refer to others like Hold Condition, or Hold Mode, and Normal Condition, or Normal Mode, and even Idle Up 2, or Flight Mode 2. We’ll get to these later.

By the way, Futaba uses the Flight Condition while JR uses the word Mode - but we ﬁgure they really just do it to confuse us! Don’t worry if you hear people referring to Mode this or Mode that but you notice they ﬂy Futaba equipment - it just means they’ve been hanging around folks who use JR equipment - it’s not a sin! Plus, of course, there are other brands too - like Airtronics, Hitec, et al. and each have proprietary terminology you’ll need to get the hang of.

Oh, and in case you’re wondering, no we’re not going to teach you how to program a speciﬁc radio to the Tiger 50 in this manual. There are too many radio systems with excellent manuals which explain exactly how to set-up a CCPM heli for us to replicate all their work. That, plus the radio models change almost yearly, so anything we put in the manual would soon be obsolete!

Instead, our goal is to give you a grounding in both how and why certain ﬂight modes exist,

combined with some pitch values - which will get your helicopter close to a ﬁnal set-up - close enough to ﬂy and just make minor trim changes.

As you may suspect, this section was created for folks to whom this is all new. Experienced pilots will just glance at the pitch values we suggest and be on their way without a further glance at this manual!

Since we’ve discussed the switchless inverted pitch curve Idle Up 1 set-up, let’s discuss the Normal Pitch Curve for the same set-up. The Normal Pitch Curve is the one used to start the chopper, carry it to the ﬂight line, and take-off as well as for recovery of the model at the end of a ﬂight. Flying around is done in Idle Up 1 - understand? The goal is for this curve to exactly match the Idle Up 1 curve from mid-stick on up because you don’t want the heli to jump up or down when you engage the switch due to a difference in pitch curve proﬁles. Thus, the top end pitch will be the same; the hover pitch will also be the same (and will still occur at 3/4 stick - exactly as it does for idle Up 1). Similarly, mid-stick will continue to be 0o of pitch. The differences in the pitch curve will only be apparent in the run up to hover. The end result will be a smooth transition between the Normal Mode and the Idle Up 1 ﬂight mode, which can be accomplished from hover pitch on up. At the bottom of the pitch range, there will be about -4o of pitch to enable easy landings even in a stiff breeze (Figure 10)

Stick Position

Pitch

Figure 10

-4

Hover

1/4

3/4

1/2

5.5

Normal & Hold - switchless inverted

Page 37

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.7

By the way, if it’s not clear, you measure pitch at the blades with a pitch gage while ensuring the ﬂybar is absolutely level. Your hobby dealer will have pitch gages available. With a switchless inverted set-up, there’s not often a need for a Idle Up 2 Flight Condition. Some expert pilots who use the condition often mimic Idle Up 1 so as to not have problems if they inadvertently toggle the switch past the Idle Up 1 position. Other expert pilots will have almost the exact same curve loaded but with slight changes to suit perhaps greater wind. We’re treading on the territory of professionals. If you don’t know why you would want an Idle Up 2 (in additional to an Idle Up 1), you likely don’t need to worry about it.

This brings us to the Hold Condition. We recommend the Hold Condition pitch curve should look identical to the Normal Curve. The Hold Condition is used for practicing autorotation landings - simulated engine out landings.

The end result is you will have the ability to switch between ﬂight modes, be it Normal, Idle Up 1, (or 2), and Hold without the helicopter doing anything strange. What’s more, you can always ﬁnd the unloaded point on the rotor disk (0o) because it’s mid-stick for every single ﬂight condition. This is a tremendous advantage in ﬂight management and will permit the easiest way to master aerobatic ﬂight with the Tiger 50.

At this point you may be wondering how do you decide what the top end pitch will be? This is determined by the power of the engine. Some engines being stronger than others can pull 11o of pitch with no problem, others can only pull (without sagging) 10.5o of pitch, etc. It depends on the engine. However, while we can directly measure the pitch of the main rotor, we don’t have an easy way to measure power output. The easy answer to this is max pitch corresponds to max throttle opening. Usually. The top-level aerobatic pilots however keep a little in reserve at top end pitch so they can add more power to make up for the cyclic demands of pitch and power during maneuvers - but that’s beyond the scope of this manual. We’ll get into all this a bit later when we discuss Throttle Curves.

We’ve pretty well covered the pitch curves for an experienced pilot who wants to perform any 3D maneuvers within their repertoire.

Upright Orientation: Normal Pitch Curve

Next we’ll discuss the minor changes made to the pitch curves for the pilot who is not really interested in extreme aerobatic ﬂight. First up is the Normal Pitch Curve (for upright oriented ﬂight). As you’ll see, the curve really doesn’t look very different at all, but the values are quite a bit different as the hover point now occurs at mid-stick. In fact, this is a much better set-up for hovering as the sensitivity of the T/C stick is reduced by half! Top end pitch is not changed either. Bottom end pitch is changed to the negative value of the hover pitch. In this case, it’s -5.5o (though some pilots may not like the bottom end pitch quite so steep, it does allow greater precision and control for spot landings by adding the ability to drop quite steeply by adding loads of negative pitch).

By the way, have we mentioned just how easy it is to make the changes to the curves? It’s done simply by changing the ATV (total amount of servo throw) for each of the three CCPM servos. Of course this is done with the pitch gage installed on the blade so you can interactively make adjustments. It’s quite easy and takes only a few minutes to program into the transmitter! (Figure 11)

Stick Position

Pitch

Figure 11

-5.5

Hover

1/2

5.5

Normal & Hold - upright orientation

Low

High

Page 38

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.8

ELECTRONIC SET-UP: Throttle Curves

As with pitch curves, throttle curves are just the graphical representation of servo position as it relates to stick position. In this case, the stick is the T-part of T/C, or throttle. High stick corresponds to high pitch. The throttle curve for a Normal pitch curve might look like the one below. Notice, how the throttle is closed at low stick and wide open (WOT) at high stick and somewhere in the middle for mid-stick, or hover. (Figure 13)

You may have noticed the T/C stick is no longer symmetrical for the Normal Curve in an upright oriented system because there’s 11o of pitch between low pitch and hover and only 5.5o of pitch between hover and high pitch. Earlier we mentioned many pilots don’t like the low end of the pitch range setup so sensitive. This is very easy to adjust with the transmitter by decreasing the low-end ATV values of the three CCPM servos.

Below is another Normal Pitch curve - one that many pilots may ﬁnd more comfortable. However, be aware that in high winds, it may be harder to get the helicopter back down because you’ll ﬁnd a need for more and more negative pitch as the wind speed increases. In fact, in a stiff breeze, a helicopter with only 0o of pitch, seemingly doesn’t want to come down! (Figure 12)

For an upright, or sport, orientation, there’s also a need for an Idle Up 1 Pitch Curve because while the helicopter spends most of its time upright, it doesn’t spend all its entire time upright. This heli will occasionally perform both loops and rolls during which it will be brieﬂy inverted. What does the Idle Up 1 Pitch Curve look like for a machine with a sport orientation? Exactly like the one above! The difference isn’t in the pitch curves but in the throttle curves. Why? Because it’s critical to always maintain rotor speed, most especially when the helicopter is in the inverted portions of the maneuvers. This leads up to discussing throttle curves.

Stick Position

Servo Position - Throttle

Idle

WOT

High

Figure 13

Throttle Curve

Low

The whole idea of throttle curves is for the throttle to add or subtract power to the main rotor system (by opening or closing the throttle) so as to maintain the RPMs of the main rotor constant. Seems simple enough as increasing main blade pitch means you increase the load, which would slow down the main rotor blades unless we also increased the throttle. Similarly, reducing the load on the main rotor system by reducing the pitch would lessen the load on the engine which is compensated for by closing the throttle the appropriate amount - understand? Hence, the reason why we refer to the throttle collective stick as the T/C stick is because the throttle and the collective pitch move at the same time, or are linked. Usually.

Usually? Yes, the usual relationship means high pitch and high throttle while low pitch is linked to low throttle. But there are times when this isn’t the case - during Idle Up and Hold.

Stick Position

Pitch

Figure 12

-3

Hover

1/4

3/4

1/2

5.5

Normal & Hold - upright orientation

Page 39

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

9.9

Throttle Curves: Idle Up and Hold Conditions

While the throttle and the collective pitch servos move at the same time, or are linked, for Normal pitch curves, as soon as a helicopter is inverted, the pitch servo moves in the opposite (negative) direction. If the system closed the throttle it would mean disaster, as the rotor speed would decay! Similarly, to practice autorotation, the pilots wishes to disconnect the throttle from the collective stick, in effect setting the engine at idle while permitting the pilot to perform the autorotation maneuver as if the engine had died. Then, if the maneuver isn’t coming along well, the pilot ﬂips the hold switch back, the engine roars back to life from idle, and the helicopter can enter normal ﬂight again. Both of these are conditions where the linking of throttle and collective in their usual relationship isn’t desired. They are accomplished by throwing a switch.

In the case of Idle Up, the pilot ﬂips the Idle Up switch (which may actually have three positions, Off, Idle Up 1, and Idle Up 2). Engaging this switch tells the radio system to convert both the Normal Pitch curve (when Idle Up switch is Off ) to the Idle Up 1 Pitch and the Idle Up 1 throttle curves. The purpose is to keep the rotor speed constant. The actual amount of throttle required is subject to experimentation. If you don’t know how to ﬂy inverted, get an experienced pilot to help you - or you’ll be in big trouble! Below is what an Idle Up 1 throttle curve might look like for an upright oriented helicopter. (Figure 14)

WOT

Idle

Half

Stick Position

Throttle Curve

Figure 14

What’s immediately apparent is the throttle closes until it hits 0o pitch at which point as the pitch goes negative, the throttle opens up again (some) in an effort to keep the main rotor blade speed constant.

Below is the throttle curve for Idle Up 1 for a full-on extreme performance helicopter. (Figure 15)

WOT

Idle

Low

High

Half

Stick Position

V-shape Throttle Curve

Figure 15

This is what’s known as a V-shape throttle curve. It follows the Idle Up 1 pitch curve from Figure 9. You’ll note, the low-point for the throttle opening corresponds to about 0o pitch. This is close to an idle setting - but it must be adjusted in ﬂight. The throttle for hover pitch is about the same as for the normal curve. The last curve is the one for Hold. Again, this isn’t a curve, it’s just a straight line that represents a faster (reliable) engine idle. (Figure 16)

WOT

Idle

Low

High

Half

Stick Position

Hold Throttle Curve

Figure 16

5.5

-5.5

Idle

-4

5.5

Page 40

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

10.0

The amount of throttle in the Hold curve is also determined by experiment. Usually the idle setting is a little bit higher than normal, not a lot, just enough to ensure the engine will not die during the descent. That’s because if you bail from the maneuver (autorotation practice) by ﬂipping the switch back and the engine is dead, then you are committed to completing the autorotation - or crash! Since the reason you usually bail from a practice autorotation is you’ve screwed it up somehow, you then ﬁnd yourself in big trouble. Make certain the engine idles reliably.

In practice, these Pitch and Throttle Curves often don’t look like the beautiful straight lines we’ve used for the manual. Often, to keep main rotor speed from decaying, or from going too fast, the pitch throttle points will not be quite as perfect as those we’ve shown. It’s also worth noting that for all of the example curves demonstrated, we’ve assumed you’ve had a radio, which can set 5 points for all the curves. These points are, lowstick, 1/4-stick, mid-stick (or 1/2-stick), 3/4-stick, and full-stick.

For example, many pilots will have a Normal Pitch curve (upright orientation) which looks more like this. (Figure 17)

Stick Position

Pitch

Figure 12

-3

Hover

1/4

3/4

1/2

5.5

Normal Pitch- upright orientation

The ﬂattened part of the curve is so collective pitch control for the helicopter isn’t quite as sensitive. Similarly, the Normal Throttle Curve for an

upright oriented helicopter will look more like this. (Figure 18)

Stick Position

Pitch

Figure 18

-3

Hover

1/4

3/4

1/2

5.5

Normal Throttle Curve - sport

What’s happening here is the throttle decreases sharply until the stick is at 3/4-stick then ﬂattens near the hover (mid-stick) position. Again, the curve stays fairly ﬂattish between the 1/4 and 3/4-stick positions which help keeps throttle sensitivity good near hover. From the 1/4-stick position the curve drops steeply again towards an idle setting.

This is what the Idle Up 1 throttle curve might look like for an upright, or sport, oriented helicopter. (Figure 19)

Stick Position

Pitch

Figure 19

-3

Hover

1/4

3/4

1/2

5.5

Idle Up 1 Throttle Curve - sport

The low point in the curve corresponds to 0

Page 41

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

10.1

of pitch and then the curve climbs as the throttle is opened to account for the fact the main rotor blade system is being loaded again as pitch increases from 0o to -3o of pitch.

The ﬂy in the ointment is the limitation of having only 5 points on these curves. If you have ever wondered why top pilots use radio systems like ﬂagship 9 and 10-channel systems from the likes of Futaba and JR, the reason is these systems have more capabilities - chief amongst them, more points on the curves.

Now let’s look at the Idle Up 1 throttle curve for a switchless inverted, or extreme performance, helicopter. (Figure 20)

WOT

Idle

Low

High

Half

Stick Position

V-shape Throttle modiﬁed

Figure 20

5.5

-5.5

Idle

This throttle curve looks much like the V-shape throttle curve from Figure 15, but the main difference is the shallowing out of the curve between hover-throttle and 0o pitch. Also note the throttle doesn’t go fully to idle during 0o pitch as the pilot is not going to spend much time with the main rotor unloaded at this point. Instead, this is actually simply a transition point on the way to re-loading the rotor disk as pitch goes negative.

In setting up the throttle curves, you must bear in mind that while we can measure the pitch we set up into the main rotor disk (using a pitch gage), we cannot however, measure the power settings. Hence, the ﬁrst thing you set after

establishing the neutral point for all the linkages (and ensuring the control and servo arms make perfect 90o angles as they meet) is the desired pitch for 0o-pitch, hover-pitch, and full-pitch stick positions. These, of course, are low-stick, 1/2stick, and full-stick for a extreme performance oriented helicopter. Then, once each of these stick positions are set, leave the settings alone.

Since we cannot measure power using calipers, a ruler, or any gage we will establish the proper throttle position via ﬂight-testing - empirically! For most pilots, max pitch is the simplest to set because the carburetor is at WOT (wide open throttle) position. Remember, depending on the capabilities of your radio system, you may actually use 95% power at max pitch and keep 5% in reserve for maneuvers (throttle ATV needs be at 100% - physical WOT). If the engine will not pull the max pitch you established, then the solution is to reduce the pitch curve at that point. If the rotor speed is too high at max pitch, and you already have all the extra throttle (5%) you want in your pocket for maneuvers, then increase the main blade pitch at high stick using pitch ATV.

For the Normal mode, you will use the engine’s good-idle speed as the setting for low-stick. Hover power is initially a straight line between the two other positions and is dialed in when actually hovering the machine. If when hovering the rotor speed is too low, then increase the midstick position throttle curve. Conversely, if the rotor RPMs are too high, reduce engine power at mid-stick. At this point, as we mentioned earlier, it is important to again verify the hover throttle position has the linkage at 90o to the pushrod. At all costs we desire to keep differential throw to a minimum - with throttle this will promote a linear delivery of the power. All adjustments to the rotor speed are done with throttle curves.

ELECTRONIC SET-UP: Gyroscope

As a rule, piezo crystal gyroscopes have replaced old-technology mechanical spinning gyros. These usually feature heading-hold. When in this mode, turn off the Revolution mix in the radio (all ﬂight modes using heading-hold will have REVO turned off). That’s completes initial set-up - now it’s time to go to the ﬁeld!

Page 42

SET-UP TIPS - CONT.

10.2

FIELD SET-UP: Blade Tracking

You’ve completed an initial set-up on the workbench; now it’s time to make some ﬁne adjustments. The ﬁrst thing to do is remove the canopy because this will permit easy access to the linkages. This will have a negligible effect on trimming the model, but the prudent modeler may add about 6 oz. of weight to the radio platform to compensate. If the helicopter does not drift too much, proceed to blade tracking before trimming the model. If the machine is in need of so much trim that tracking the blades will be difﬁcult, then perform some trimming ﬁrst. Hopefully the machine is accurately built and very little, if any, trim will be needed. The procedure is to lift the machine into a low hover (skids a few inches off the ground) and verify the blade tracking. It’s great to have an experienced helicopter pilot’s help at this stage. Apply tracking tape and verify the blades are in track.

Out of track blades visually identified through use of the tracking tape.

Blades in track

Apply Colored Tr

acking Tape

Different color tape - apply it at the same position on each blade.

Same color tape - apply it at different positions on each blade.

* PRO TIP: If main rotor RPM is ﬁne, split the difference when tracking the blades; lower one blade and raise the other - but if the rotor RPM is too high, raise the low blade to match the high blade and vice versa if the RPMs are too low.

FIELD SET-UP: Trimming & Linkage Adjustment

After tracking the blades, remove the tracking tape, it’s time to make trim adjustments. Lift the helicopter into a high hover (skids at eye level) so that ground effect doesn’t affect the model. If the model holds position fairly well, or only needs 1 or 2 clicks, you’re done. If more than this is needed, make mechanical linkage adjustments to compensate, re-center the trims on the transmitter, and try again. Verify the neutral position for both the throttle and T/R linkages are correct in the hover.

FIELD SET-UP: Dynamic Blade Balance

Remove balance-weight and re-install canopy. Lift model in high hover. If there are some small vibrations, try to dynamically balance the main rotor. Pick a blade and add a wrap or two of tracking tape at the CG of the blade. Lift into a hover and if it’s worse, remove the tape and try adding it to the other blade. If it’s better but not perfect, add a bit more. This is a trial and error process, which most pilots don’t bother with, but time spent here will deliver a much smoother performing helicopter.

Page 43

10.3 ADDENDUM

A goodie bag of parts, plus some tips to make the Tiger better, are what this addendum is all about.

ADDENDUM v1.9 Parts included: 10) AUD1012 Servo Bosses, 1) AUD0548 Seesaw, and 2) AUD3505 Buttonhead Bolts

6. 3D pilots (who often ﬂ y backward maneuvers) usually prefer a slightly tail heavy setup. But for learning to hover, you want the CG (center of gravity) more forward. We offer AUD0530 (a longer platform), but an inexpensive alternative is to make a plywood platform-extension from 1/8” aircraft plywood. Attach it with screws and zip-tie the battery as far forward as you can thus, shifting the CG further forward.

5. Turns out there is no HD molded on the ball links. Instead, look closely for a lightly molded ring around the lip on one side of the links. This ring-side is slightly larger than the other. Install the link by snapping the ring-side down over the ball.

Ring-side snaps over ball

No ring

2. Want to make your Tiger ﬂ ip and tumble faster, i.e. for more aggressive 3D ﬂ ight? Included in the goodie bag is a seesaw with more holes - part number AUD0548. Review the diagram on page 50 to see where it’s installed. Make sure you use the two included AUD3505 button head screws to prevent the seesaw arms binding. If you’re learning to hover, or enjoy upright ﬂ ight with F3C-style ﬂ ight routines (like loops and rolls), use the outer hole position (as with the original seesaw) and the inner hole to tumble and roll in place (and basically make the Tiger less stable). But be careful because a boom strike is possible when you’re too agressive (which is why we offer stiffer PDR0071 dampers).

AUD3505 M3x8 Buttonhead Screw

AUD1012 Servo Boss

1. The new servo bosses AUD1012 included in the goodie bag are slightly shorter so toss the others. Then use plastic-type CA glue to secure them. I prefer that black CA, IC-2000 (rubber-reinforced Tire Glue) from Bob Smith Industries.

4. We’ve taken to using epoxy and micro ballons (or JB Weld) to add a reinforcing ﬁ llet to the bosses which hold the canopy posts on the radio platform and frames. They seem to break pretty easy so this saves a few bucks!

2-1/4”

1-1/2”

5-9/16”

6-1/4”

Use this template for making a radio platform extension out of 1/8” aircraft plywood as an aid for moving the CG (center of gravity) further forward.

3/8”

3. We forgot to mention in the manual what to do with two little black spacers (4mm dia x 2.8mm), the F3C swashball extensions. Install them under the short balls on the upper ring of the swashplate per the Pro Tip in section 4.1 - these are for sport aerobatic use. For 3D, buy the PDR0069 3D Swashball Kit because it’s more of the same (but 4.25mm instead of 2.8mm high). Novices shouldn’t install any extensions! Swashball extensions like the F3C and the PDR0069 option are another tool in the arsenal of the pilot seeking to extend the performance envelope via tuning.

www.audacitymodels.com

AUD0548 Seesaw

PDR0069 3D Swashball Kit Seesaw

F3C Swashball extension

Extend radio tray with 1/8” plywood

Check that this prints full size!

Template:

Page 44

www.audacitymodels.com

7. Servo arms are an important part of setting up your Tiger. There’s a mistake in the manual on pages 26, 27, and 31 where we suggest using 20 mm long servo arms for the three swashplate servos. In fact, the forwardmost servo should operate through a 23 mm long servo arm instead of a 20 mm servo arm. The reason is AUD0027 Elevator Arm reduces throw by 15% to clear the start shaft. Mechanically compensate by using a servo arm that’s 15% longer than the arms used on the two aft servos. Hence, a 23mm long servo arm is pefect if you use 20 mm arms for those because 20 mm x 15% = 3 mm, or 20 mm x 1.15 = 23 mm thereby resolving the issue quite elegantly. We’re partial to the HD servo arms manufactured by Du-Bro, their parts #670 for Futaba, #671 for JR, and #672 for Hitec brand servos. Also, instead of a 12.5 mm servo arm for the tail rotor servo we’re using a longer arm (15-18 mm) instead.

8. Under hard use, thread locker securing the pinion gear of the AUD0526 Clutch Bell Assembly to the AUD3077 10x19x7 bearing can work its way loose. If you’re hearing a ringing sound (kind of like a bell) the pinion may have worked its way loose. The ﬁ x is to clean the old thread locker off with acetone and re-assemble with thick CA or JB Weld. The real trick to making it bulletproof though is to use thick CA or JB Weld on it while it’s new! Remove the front landing gear bolts and drop the engine. Some have reported they’re placing a pair of needle-nose pliers on top of the clutch bell and giving it a tap with a hammer to pop it loose, but because some have also damaged the frames where it holds the bearing, we think it’s best to just split the frame! We get away with just removing the frame bolts forward of the Tail Drive Pinion Assembly and ﬂ ex the frames open (make sure you remove the M3x12mm that’s inside the curve of the fan shroud too). In fact, you may not even have to remove servos because there’s usually enough slack in the wiring. Next, clean the thread locker off with acetone or laquer thinner (the thread locker dissolves very easily) and use either thick CA or JB Weld to re-bond the pinion into the bearing (instead of thread locker as detailed in step 1.1). However, as with thread locker, be especially careful not to get CA into the bearing because it’ll lock it up tighter than a tick on a hound dog . . . you’ve been warned!

9. Disassemble the thrust bearings located inside the main rotor blade grips and grease them. This will maximize service life. We have used many types of grease and don’t think which kind matters in the least regardless of whether it’s wheel bearing grease, white lithium grease, or whatever you have on hand! This is an easy job, but please refer to the drawing for proper thrust bearing re-assembly as detailed in the manual’s exploded views (refer to 11.3 Main Rotor Head & Seesaw). There’s really only one thing that might bite you on the rear. There are two grooved washers in each thrust bearing pack, and getting them backwards will make blade tracking inconsistent since these washers differ slightly in the ID. Just make sure the grooved washer with the larger ID is installed on the hub-side while the one with the smaller ID is installed toward the nut-side. Finally, while you’re at it, put just a smear of grease on the dampers (where the spindle shaft rides) so that they don’t bind.

10. There’s a mistake in the manual affecting steps 3.3 and

3.5 because these bolts are reversed. The correct bolts to mount the engine to the engine mount (as detailed in step 3.3) are the 3x12 mm shown in step 3.5. The longer 3x15 mm bolts (from step 3.3) should instead be used in step 3.5 for securing the engine mount (with aluminum cap washers) to the side frames.

11. Turns out the note about not using thread locker on the crankshaft nut (step 3.3) isn’t the last word. We now think it’s best to use blue thread locker to secure the nut. Also, if you dial-indicate the AUD0037 Clutch Hub (to minimize vibration), then PDR0090 Equalizing Nut (used in the wings of Boeing jets) is the Cat’s Meow to keep the runout from changing as you tighten the engine nut because its ball-andsocket design prevents it from pulling the hub off center!

12. Complaints of the tail boom working loose have two usual sources - using a screwdriver-handle type Allen to tighten the four M3x38 mm aft frame bolts vs. an L-shaped or T-handle Allen-wrench (to really tighten the suckers), or forgetting to tighten the M3x4 set screws located on each side frame (as detailed in step 5.7). Here are a couple of tips; ﬁ rst, while some advocate a wrap of electrical tape on the boom before plugging it in, we DO NOT think this is necessary. If you feel you must, you can tighten the ﬁ t this way instead; remove the four aft frame bolts and pass a thin Zona-type saw blade between the crack formed where they join - this removes a few thousandths of material. better still, if the frames haven’t been assembled yet (or you’re willing to disassemble them), lightly pass a sanding block on the aft part of the frames before joining. Second, substitute a couple of M3x10 Allen Head bolts for the supplied set screws so that you can use the same 2.5 mm Allen driver everywhere - these don’t round out as easily! Also, because it’s not unusual for these safety set screws to actually punch through the boom (which certainly keeps it from working loose), we ﬁ rst ﬂ y the heli a time or two (because the belt stretches a little) and then we secure these safety set screws!

13. On 9.0 Set Up Tips, there’s a mistake as the two aft servos are reversed. The starboard (right) aft servo should actually be plugged into channel 1 and the port (left) aft servo should instead be plugged into channel 6. The same issue pops up with with different brands of equipment as per step 9.3 where channel numbers are refered to as Aux 1, ELEV, and AILE - please refer to your radio equipment’s manual for speciﬁ cs.

14. AH-xxxx and PRO-xxxx part numbers are superceded by AUD-xxxx and PDR-xxxx - numbers don’t change.

10.4 ADDENDUM

PDR0090 Equalizing Nut

Page 45

15. We’ve been fortunate that some of the best 3D pilots in the world have chosen to use a Tiger 50 as a “beater” for practicing the presentation of their 3D routines. As a direct consequence (because they ﬂ y their Tiger 50 harder than mere mortals) their ideas may lead to inprovements for the rest of us. The tip that follows is one that we call the “Henry Caldwell Tail Pitch Control Lever Modiﬁ cation”.

This mod involves AUD0010 Tail Pitch Control Lever, and requires an X-Acto with a #11 blade, a drill, the appropriate drill bit and 3 mm tap, as well as PDR-0079 3D Guide Pins. These can increase the service life of the tail pitch control lever under grueling abuse imposed by aggressive 3D pilots.

PDR0079 3D Guide Pins

Step 1 - Remove AUD0010 Tail Pitch Control Lever from the Tail Gear Case Assembly by using a drift to drive out the tail lever bushing - a makeshift drift can be an Allen driver. Step 2 - Use the X-Acto to slice off the two plastic nubs which ﬁ t the grooves to drive AUD0014 Tail Slide Ring. Step 3 - Drill and tap for 3 mm. This is easy because there is a round molded recess directly opposite (on each side) from where the pins were. Just be careful to center the drill bit beforehand and go for it. If you screw up, it’s not the end of the World, a replacement AUD0010 is inexpensive. Step 4 - Use a drop of plastic CA glue as a thread locker and an Allen driver, screw in the PDR0079 3D Guide Pins. Step 5 - That’s it! Reinstall the Tail Pitch Control Lever.

Special thanks to: Henry Caldwell for coming up with the idea, Marcus Kim for letting his Tiger 50 be the guinea pig, Eric Reinhart for the tools to accomplish this, and most especially Lee O’Dell for generously donating the guide pins off his Freya for the experiment. The idea was prototyped at Blacksheep, SC over the 2005 Independence Day Holiday and a mere 5 weeks later we had approved the drawings, manufactured the guide pins and were shipping! This little modiﬁ cation can really help maintain precision longer!

16. Assembling the AUD2003 Ball Link Ends to the AUD1521 Tail Rotor Pushrod becomes a lot easier if you ﬁ rst use a 5/64 drill bit (.078”) and drill out the slightly undersized holes before threading them onto the pushrod.

17. We’ve had reports of blades occasionally going out of track and have learned it’s related to excessive play in one of the Seesaw Arms. Check for excess play before ﬂ ying your model because the resulting ﬂ utter can easily be strong enough to lead to a Spindle Shaft bending. Fortunately, the shaft is a sacriﬁ cial part and hence, is cheap and easy to replace. The cause is usually either the screw securing the Seesaw Arm on the shaft has backed out slightly, or there’s a ganging of tolerances which has resulted in a loose ﬁ t on one of the arms. Checking for either condition is actually pretty easy. First, grasp the Seesaw Arm between your thumb and foreﬁ nger and give it a side-to-side wiggle. Next, rotate the head around and check the other Seesaw Arm the same way. If you’ve experienced blades going out of track, then dollars to donuts there’s more play in one Seesaw Arm vs. the other!

You may be asking yourself, “What’s ganging of tolerances?” Simply this . . . it’s surely no surprise that two bearings with the same part number can actually vary slightly in size, right? I.e. measure them using instruments of sufﬁ cient precision and you’ll almost always discover that one can be slightly thinner than the other. Similarly, the ID and the OD can vary slightly as well. The same holds true for the shaft - such that it might be slightly longer than others in the same parts bin. Ditto with the seesaw arm itself, but nonetheless, these differences are within the +/- tolerances of the design. Then during assembly; thinner bearings, maybe a seesaw arm with a thinner ring gap, or perhaps a longer shaft, when assembled result in slightly too much play in one of the seesaw arms. It doesn’t happen often but occasionally parts (each in proper tolerance) when combined may result in an assembly that’s out of tolerance - in this case too lose!

First, just try tightening the bolt. Be careful though since this bolt threads into the plastic seesaw. Fortunately, if it’s stripped, all’s not lost since plastic-type CA used as thread locker will have you back in business because you can pretty much restore the threads using it. If the damage is too bad, happily, seesaws are inexpensive so it’s not that big a deal.

If it’s not loose, then back the bolt out and look to see if the shaft itself (the one the bearings ride on) isn’t just a hair too long (you’ll see it sticking out past the inner race of the outer bearing of the seesaw arm - it’s pretty easy to discern). If this is the case, then ﬁ le a few thousanths (or however much is needed to make for a perfect ﬁ t) off the end of the shaft.

That’s how you remove the extra play and the process is called “blue printing”. Top pilots blue print every assembly of a machine. Most of us aren’t top pilots, but blue printing an assembly is a simple, easy, and free modiﬁ cation. Best of all, it may result in a tangibly better handling helicopter plus it’s fun to do - after all, it’s called modeling for a reason! While you’re at it, check the mixing arms for excess play and blue print them to perfection also!

10.5 ADDENDUM

www.audacitymodels.com

Page 46

10.6 ADDENDUM

www.audacitymodels.com

18. A member of the Audacious Crew came up with an idea for making the Tiger 50 ﬂy better and it really works! It’s called the “Kevin Garver Positive Delta Modiﬁcation” and it makes for a real improvement in the ﬂying chracteristics of the Tiger 50 . . . and it doesn’t cost a thin dime! His idea led to this recommendation for ﬂipping the main rotor blade grips over so the main rotor blades are controlled from the leading edge vs. from the trailing edge (resulting in positive delta vs. negative delta). The ensuing aerodynamic forces work to provide more precise collective and cyclic control and best of all, it’s both easy to accomplish . . . and free!

The goal is to invert, or mirror image, everything north of the Swashplate. These include the Mixing Base/Mixing Arms, the Seesaw/Seesaw Arms, and the Control Lever Assembly as well as the Main Blade Grips. It’s easy, here’s how . . .

Step 1 - DISASSEMBLY - use ball link pliers and remove the links (to include the Washout Link) leading from the Swashplate up to the Main Blade Grips. Then remove a Flybar Paddle, loosen the set screws on the Control Lever Assembly, and slide the Flybar out as well. Take the Seesaw Arms off the Seesaw followed by the two screws holding the Seesaw onto the aluminum Center Hub Assembly to remove the Seesaw itself. Next, remove the Jesus Bolt and lift the Head Assembly off the Main Shaft. Finally, lift the Washout Base/Mixing Arms off the Main Shaft.

Step 2 - MODIFICATION - For the full collective pitch range (-11/+11 degrees) you must cut about 1/8” from the bottom of the Washout Base (if you’re not doing full inverted climb outs, don’t bother because you get about -8 degrees without modifying the mixing base - enough for a moderate inverted climb out). I use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk but because the inner liner of the Washout Base is made of steel it’s helpful to occasionally dip the Mixing Base in a bowl of water to keep the steel sleeve from getting too hot and melting the plastic. Alternatively, get someone to hold a wet sponge above the Washout Base and dribble water on the job for cooling (as you cut it). Also, use the Dremel and cutoff disk to trim enough (about 1/8”) off the rotor blade bolts to keep them from gouging your palm when you use your hand as a rotor blade brake - you’ve been warned!

Step 3 - RE-ASSEMBLY - Refer to the drawing. First replace the Seesaw - remember to invert it. Reinstall the Seesaw Arms, then slip the Control Lever Assembly in place and ease the Flybar through it and the Seesaw. This has been done correctly when the Set Screws which secure the Flybar are tightened from the bottom vs. from the top. Now replace the second Flybar Paddle and re-align everything. Then, re-install the Mixing Arms onto the Washout Base and slip this over the Main Shaft - but ensure the side which you cut off faces upwards and the Washout Arms are reversed. Snap the Washout Links onto the long balls on the upper star of the Swashplate. Next, re-install the head assembly and the Jesus Bolt - and please remember to tighten it securely. Trust me when I say it’s a sick feeling to watch the rotor disk go sailing off pretty as you please while the Tiger 50 imitates a costly Lawn Dart - and don’t ask me how I know, but you’ve been warned - sob! Now remove one of the M4 Nylon Lock Nuts from the Spindle Shaft and slide the grips apart enough to permit you to rotate them 180 degrees (ﬂip them over in other words) and re-tighten the M4 Nylon Lock Nut. Finally, re-install the linkage rods.

Step 4 - PROGRAMMING - Next, let’s reverse the pitch direction - do this in the Swashplate Menu of the transmitter. It’s where you have values for Elevator, Aileron, and Pitch. All you do is reverse the value for Pitch. For example, if the value is +55, change it to -55 . . . or from -60 to +60 and the Swashplate will now move down for positive pitch instead of moving upward - and vice versa! You’re done!

This is the new “ofﬁcial” way we recommend assembly of the main blade grip control. The only downside to this little modiﬁcation is the set screws securing the ﬂybar are reached from below and similarly, the bolts securing the main rotor blades install from the bottom as well - a small price to pay!

Reversed Main Blade Grips

19. Installing the 3D paddles is simplicity itself, but you must ensure they are properly installed. Make sure none of the threads on the ﬂybar are exposed, i.e. that they’re fully covered by the body of the paddles (or the ﬂybar can break where the threads start). Just make a mark 1” from the end of the ﬂybar, then screw the paddles on until the inside edge of the paddle meets the mark. Also, some 3D-pilots like to experiment and try to improve the ﬂight characteristics when using these paddles - it’s easy. First, slice 1/8” off the leading edge. Next, using a sanding block, simply re-proﬁle the edge back to an aerodynamic shape. Finally, check to ensure they still weigh the same - that’s it!

20. The inevitable will occur. Yes, despite your best efforts (perhaps even due to your best efforts), the time will come when your Tiger 50 meets terra ﬁrma at a rapid rate and what results is a smokin’ hole in the ground! Inevitably this greatly amuses the peanut gallery (while you’ll be shaking your head in dismay). If (when the momentous occasion occurs), the damage includes the AUD0013 Tail Pitch Plate (this piece supports the two AUD0012 Tail Pitch Links and threads onto the AUD1005 Tail Slide Ring Sleeve), then remember this - the assembly doesn’t use the usual right-hand threads . . . it uses left-hand threads - you’ve been warned!

Page 47

10.7 ADDENDUM

Check for most recent update at:

www.audacitymodels.com

- John Beech, GM (and janitor), December 2005

This addendum is how I’d have written the manual had I known then what I know now!

21. I’ve been asked a few times about lubing bearings and

other points of friction on the Tiger 50. First, remember the goal of lubrication is to reduce friction and the resulting accelerated wear due to the rubbing together of parts. We do this with lubricant. This, naturally enough, raises the question of what to use? While I happen to think that even spitting on it is better than nothing, I also suspect some may want a recommendation other than that. I don’t care for WD-40 for this application (though it’s better than nothing also), and 3-in-1 (or any light sewing machine oil) is decent but attracts dirt - which is bad! I prefer a synthetic high tech lube like Tri-Flow with Teﬂon. This brings us to where and how often the lubrication should be applied.

To lube the little bearings contained within the tail rotor blade grips, I place a few drops on the hub side of each tail rotor grip (right on the shaft itself, actually). Then rotational forces will ensure the oil ﬂows through the bearings! For good measure, I also lube where the tail slide ring sleeve rides on the tail output shaft. While I’m at it, I also put a couple of drops right where the swashplate rides on the main shaft. Ditto for the washout base also. That’s because these both ride up and down on the main shaft with pitch changes. I also put a few drops at the main rotor blade grips (the same as for the tail rotor grips, i.e. right on the shaft and let rotation distribute the oil throughout the bearing). Finally, I place a drop or two at each main shaft bearing, the start shaft bearings, and the tail output shaft beaings also. I lube these places before ﬂying begins for the day.

However, with respect to lubing the bearings in the main rotor blade grips, I rather suspect this may also be serving to wash some of the grease out of the thrust bearings. But unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be an easy answer for this issue since oil seems best for ball bearings and grease for thrust bearings. Hence, I re-lube the thrust bearings every time the spindle shaft is replaced, or after every case or two of fuel - presuming I have’t had the head/grips apart due to a crash repair!

Are you’re wondering how well rotational forces work? Following the ﬁrst ﬂight after lubing the bearings in the grips using this method, I have to wipe excess lube off the roots of the main rotor blades as well as the tail rotor blades (to remove the lube that was slung through the bearings).

Anyway, that’s how I do it . . . and it’s not just for my Tiger, but for all my helicopters! By the way, one reason I lube so frequently is because I also happen to be meticulous about keeping my helicopters clean. To make this job easier, I spray them down with denatured alcohol once I get back to the workshop. Next, I use a jet of high pressure air (from my air compressor) to blast things nice and clean! Finally, I touch up by wiping with a diaper (these work great for rags) whilst checking for anything wearing or broken (which may have escaped my attention at the ﬁeld). Since it seems to me I may very well be washing away some lube along with any oil and dirt on the model, I ﬁgure the best thing to do is just re-lube these points before the start of ﬂying each day.

22. Four large (about an inch in diameter) black plastic washers (included with the model) are shims for the main rotor blades. That’s because the main rotor blade grips are designed to accept either the stock 12 mm thick blade root, or accessory 14 mm thick blade roots. The shim washers are designed to be ﬁt on each side of each main rotor blade (they’re only 1 mm thick) before being inserted into the grips and while they’re something of a tight ﬁt, they do ﬁt! Some folks advocate permanently gluing them to the blade roots using CA-type glue. While there’s nothing wrong with this, I’d recommend using a tiny drop of CA instead so you can salvage them in the event you break the blades. Then all you’ll have to do is slip the a #11 X-Acto blade under the edge of the washer and pop it loose. Lynn says I shouldn’t be so cheap . . . I just think I’m being thrifty!

23. We’ve had some issues with the threads in the body of the AUD0001 Hex Start Adapter not being fully cut. Before ﬁnal assembly using thread locker, make sure the threads are actually cleanly cut by ﬁrst running the set screw all the way into the body until you see it penetrate into the center (which is how it secures the adapter to the ﬂat of the start shaft). If the threads aren’t clean, then just run a tap through it to ﬁnish cleaning them up. Finally, remember to use plenty of thread locker so the hex start adapter doesn’t come loose . . . which as we all know, Murphy’s Law dictates will always happens at the ﬁeld while you’re showing off your new pride and joy to the peanut gallery!

Page 48

10.8 ADDENDUM

Page 49

MAIN GEAR & FRAMES

11.0

AH-3065

AH-0031

AH-0032

AH-0052

AH-3021

AH-3010

AH-3005

AH-1003

AH-3021

AH-0030

AH-300

AH-301

AH-3006

AH-300

AH-002

AH-307

AH-300

AH-000

AH-303

AH-1013

AH-3007

Page 50

PARTS LIST

11.0

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY REMARKS

AH-0003 MAIN MAST

MAIN MAST 1

AH-0029 MAIN FRAME

MAIN FRAME (R & L) 2

AH-0030 RADIO PLATFORM ASSEMBLY

RADIO PLATFORM 1 M3x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4

AH-0031 MAIN GEAR ASSEMBLY

MAIN GEAR 89T 1 M3x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4 M3 FLAT WASHER 4

AH-0032 AUTO ROTATION ASSEMBLY

M11 SNAP RING 1 1 WAY BEARING HOUSING 1 1 WAY BEARING (1WC1216) 1 AUTO-ROTATION SPACER 2 1 WAY BEARING SHAFT 1

AH-0052 GYROSCOPE PLATFORM ASSEMBLY

GYROSCOPE PLATFORM 1 M3x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4

AH-1003 SWITCH RUBBER

ROUND RUBBER GROMMET 2

AH-1013 MAST STOPPER ASSEMBLY

MAST STOPPER 1 M4x4 SET SCREW 3

All screws, washers, nuts, and bearings on 11.7 Hardware List

Page 51

11.1

AH-3036

AH-0001

AH-3080

AH-3077

H-0526

AH-3075

AH-1510

AH-3062

AH-3063

AH-3009

AH-2003

AH-3055

AH-101

AH-200

AH-053

AH-300

AH-003

AH-053

AH-3023

AH-3072

AH-003

AH-300

AH-308

AH-1011

AH-308

AH-050

AH-306

AH-300

* NOTE: Engine Not Included

ENGINE & BELT DRIVE

Page 52

11.1

PARTS LIST

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY REMARKS

AH-0001 HEX START ADAPTER ASSEMBLY

HEX START ADAPTER 1 M4x04 SET SCREW 1

AH-0035 START SHAFT

START SHAFT 1

AH-0036 COOLING FAN

COOLING FAN 1

AH-0037 CLUTCH HUB

CLUTCH HUB 1

AH-0502 FRONT TAIL BELT PULLEY ASSEMBLY

FRONT TAIL BELT PULLEY 1 M3x06 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1 M3 FLAT WASHER 1

AH-0526 CLUTCH BELL ASSEMBLY

CLUTCH BELL 1 10T PINION GEAR 1:89 RATIO 1

AH-0534 ENGINE MOUNT

ENGINE MOUNT 50 1

AH-0538 CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

CLUTCH SHOE 1 M3x08 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2

AH-1011 TAIL DRIVE PINION GEAR

TAIL DRIVE PINION GEAR 1

AH-1014 CAP BOLT HOLDER ASSEMBLY

CAP BOLT HOLDER 4 M3x12 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4

AH-1510 CLUTCH LINING

CLUTCH LINING 1

All screws, washers, nuts, and bearings on 11.7 Hardware List

Page 53

11.2

AH-2003

AH-3050

AH-1015

AH-3071

AH-1001

AH-3064

AH-2003

AH-3053

AH-2003

AH-3023

AH-3005

AH-0006

AH-2003

AH-302

AH-3040

AH-305

AH-002

AH-100

AH-000

AH-3060

AH-3002

AH-1007

AH-304

AH-000

AH-200

AH-305

AH-200

AH-003

AH-304

AH-200

AH-305

AH-304

AH-3061

AH-101

SERVO MOUNT

* NOTE: Servos Not Included

AH-0025

CCPM, SWASHPLATE, & MIXER

Page 54

11.2

PARTS LIST

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY REMARKS

AH-0003 MAIN MAST

MAIN MAST 1

AH-0004 WASHOUT ASSEMBLY

WASHOUT BASE 1

AH-0006 SWASHPLATE ARM LINK ASSEMBLY

SWASHPLATE ARM LINK 1 ELEVATOR ARM PIN 1

AH-0025 LINKAGE SET

M2.3x CONTROL ROD 2 M2.3x CONTROL ROD 2 M2.3x CONTROL ROD 2

-L- BALL LINK 8

-S- BALL LINK 4

AH-0027 ELEVATOR ARM ASSEMBLY

SWASHPLATE ARM 1 ELEVATOR ARM 1 BALL ARM (14.5mm) 1 M2 FLAT WASHER 2 M2X10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2 ELEVATOR ARM PIN 1 ELEVATOR ARM BUSHING 2 M2 NUT 2 M3x8 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2

AH-0039

120

SWASHPLATE ASSEMBLY SWASHPLATE 1 BALL ARM 3 JOINT BALL 4 M2x10 TAPPING SCREW 2 M2x13 TAPPING SCREW 2

AH-1001 WASHOUT LINK ASSEMBLY

WASHOUT LINK 2 PIN 2 X 14 2 PERMANENT PUSH NUT 4

AH-1002 ARM SHAFT

ARM SHAFT 1

AH-1007 BALL ARM

BALL ARM 1

AH-1012 SERVO MOUNT BOSS SET

SERVO BOSS PLATE 10

AH-1015 WASHOUT ARM SET

WASHOUT ARM 2 WASHOUT ARM SHAFT 2 BEARING 4 M3x15 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2 M2x10 FLAT HEAD BOLT 2 JOINT BALL 2

All screws, washers, nuts, and bearings on 11.7 Hardware List

Page 55

11.3

AH-1022

ROTOR HEAD ASSEMBLY

AH-2002

AH-3004

AH-2003

AH-3053

AH-0047

AH-2002

AH-3073

AH-3050

AH-2004

AH-3071

AH-0048

AH-3025

AH-0054

AH-3032

AH-2003

AH-0015

AH-3021

AH-0040

AH-3037

AH-3050

AH-200

AH-1519

AH-2003

AH-3023

AH-002

AH-303

AH-305

AH-302

AH-300

AH-100

AH-2004

AH-305

AH-302

AH-150

AH-307

AH-304

AH-004

AH-301

AH-000

AH-001

AH-002

AH-0055

* Note: Bevel towards grip.

Grooved Washer Larger ID Toward Hub

Grooved Washer Smaller ID Toward Grip

Flat Washer M8x13x1 (x2)

Flat Washer M5x9x1 (x2)

Thrust Bearing M5x10x4 (x2)

AH-3071

MAIN ROTOR HEAD & SEESAW

Page 56

11.3

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY REMARKS

AH-0005 CENTER HUB ASSEMBLY

CENTER HUB 1 M3x06 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4

AH-0015 FLYBAR

FLYBAR 2

AH-0016 SPINDLE SHAFT ASSEMBLY

SPINDLE SHAFT 1 NYLON LOCK NUT 1

AH-0017 DAMPER RUBBER

DAMPER RUBBER 4

AH-0018 GRIP SPACER

GRIP SPACER 2

AH-0023 ONE PIECE MAIN ROTOR HUB

ONE PIECE MAIN ROTOR HUB 1

AH-0024 CONTROL LEVER ASSEMBLY

ARM 1 FLY BAR STOPPER 2 STAINLESS STEEL BALL 2 M4x6 SET SCREW 2 M2x10 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW 2 M2HEX NUT 2

AH-0040 FLYBAR PADDLE ASSEMBLY

FLYBAR PADDLE 2 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 2 M4X06 SET SCREW 2 3X70 WEIGHT 2

AH-0046 MAIN ROTOR GRIP ASSEMBLY

MAIN ROTOR GRIP 2 JOINT BALL 2 M2x8 FLAT HEAD BOLT 2

AH-0047 SEESAW ARM ASSEMBLY

SEESAW ARM 2 M3 X 15 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2 BEARING (L840ZZ) 4 SPACER 2 BALL JOINT 4 M2x10 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW 4

AH-0048 SEESAW CENTER ASSEMBLY

SEESAW CENTER 1 M3x8 SEESAW CENTER BOLT 2 BEARING (L630ZZ) 2 BEARING (L840ZZ) 2 SPACER 2

AH-0054 ROTOR HUB ADAPTER ASSEMBLY

ROTOR HUB ADAPTER GUIDE PIN 2 M3x22 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 1 M3s5 SET SCREW 2

AH-0055 SEESAW ARMS

SEESAW ARM 2

AH-1009 SEESAW SPACER ASSEMBLY

SEESAW SPACER 2 BEARING (L840ZZ) 2 M3x8 SEESAW CENTER BOLT 2

AH-1022 ROTOR HEAD ASSEMBLY

ROTOR HEAD ASSEMBLY 1

AH-1506 ROTOR GRIP BEARING & SPACER

T5-10 BEARING 2 5x9x1 WASHER 2 8x13x1 WASHER 2

AH-1519 MAIN ROTOR BLADE

04x600 MAIN ROTOR BLADE

PAIR

PARTS LIST

All screws, washers, nuts, and bearings on 11.7 Hardware List

Page 57

11.4

AH-3020

AH-1520

AH-3015

AH-302

AH-300

AH-0045

AH-300

AH-302

AH-300

AH-304

AH-3006

AH-004

AH-3021

AH-052

AH-151

AH-200

AH-152

SUPPORTS, GUIDES, & H-FIN

Page 58

11.4

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY REMARKS

AH-0044 TAIL FIN SET

HORIZONTAL FIN 1 VERTICAL FIN 1 M3x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 2

AH-0045 TAIL SUPPORT CLAMP SET

TAIL SUPPORT CLAMP, UPPER 1 TAIL SUPPORT CLAMP, LOWER 1 M3x12 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2 M3x22 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 3 M3 FLAT WASHER 2

AH-0522 TAIL ROD GUIDE ASSEMBLY

PUSH ROD GUIDE 4 M2x8 TAPPING SCREW 4

AH-1518 TAIL BOOM

TAIL BOOM (04x690) 1

AH-1520 BOOM SUPPORT ASSEMBLY

ALUMINUM BOOM SUPPORT 2 BOOM SUPPORT END 4 M2.6x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4 M2.6 NYLON LOCK NUT 4 M3x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2

AH-1521 TAIL ROTOR PUSHROD ASSEMBLY

TAIL ROTOR PUSHROD 2 TAIL ROTOR PUSHROD BUSHING 4 BALL LINK END 2

PARTS LIST

All screws, washers, nuts, and bearings on 11.7 Hardware List

Page 59

11.5

AH-3082

AH-3001

AH-3009

AH-0042

AH-3021

AH-2002

AH-3040

AH-3036

AH-0520

AH-004

AH-001

AH-100

AH-000

AH-3021

AH-004

AH-307

AH-050

AH-0042

AH-3003

AH-3020

AH-2002

AH-0010

AH-100

AH-306

AH-051

AH-307

AH-004

AH-300

AH-0044

TAIL ROTOR, BELT, & V-FIN

Page 60

11.5

PARTS LIST

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY REMARKS

AH-0009 TAIL SLIDE RING ASSEMBLY

TAIL PITCH PLATE 1 TAIL PITCH LINK 2 TAIL PITCH LINK PIN 2 TAIL SLIDE RING 1 SLIDE RING BEARING 1

AH-0010 TAIL PITCH CONTROL LEVER ASSEMBLY

TAIL PITCH CONTROL LEVER 1 TAIL LEVER BUSHING 1 M2x8 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW 1 STAINLESS STEEL BALL 1

AH-0012 TAIL PITCH LINK ASSEMBLY

TAIL PITCH LINK 2 TAIL PITCH LINK PIN 2

AH-0013 TAIL PITCH PLATE

TAIL PITCH PLATE 1

AH-0014 TAIL SLIDE RING

TAIL SILDE RING 1 TAIL SLIDE RING BEARING (L1170ZZ) 1

AH-0041 TAIL GEAR CASE ASSEMBLY

TAIL GEAR CASE, R 1 TAIL GEAR CASE, L 1 M2.6x12 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2 M2.6 NUT 2 M3x6 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 3

AH-0042 TAIL ROTOR GRIP

TAIL ROTOR GRIP, R 2 TAIL ROTOR GRIP, L 2 STAINLESS STEEL BALL 2 M2x8 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW 2 M2x8 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4 M2 HEX NUT 4 M3x15 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 2 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 2

AH-0043 TAIL ROTOR BLADES

TAIL ROTOR BLADE 2

AH-0044 TAIL FIN SET

HORIZONTAL FIN 1 VERTICAL FIN 1 M3x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 4 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 2

AH-0508 TAIL DRIVE BELT

TAIL DRIVE BELT S3M - 1596 1

AH-0511 TAIL PULLEY ASSEMBLY

TAIL PULLEY 1 SPRING PIN, 2x14 1

AH-0520 TAIL ROTOR CENTER HUB ASSEMBLY

TAIL ROTOR CENTER HUB 1 M4x4 SET SCREW 2 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 2

AH-1004 TAIL OUTPUT SHAFT

TAIL OUTPUT SHAFT 1

AH-1005 TAIL SLIDE RING SLEEVE

TAIL SLIDE RING SLEEVE 1

All screws, washers, nuts, and bearings on 11.7 Hardware List

Page 61

11.6

AH-0021

AH-3008

AH-3062

AH-0021

AH-3034

AH-1025

AH-3033

AH-0007

AH-0019

AH-3024

AH-1008

AH-3067

AH-005

AH-002

AH-101

AH-304

AH-055

MANUAL

AH-054

DECAL SHEET

AH-002

AH-3021

AH-003

AH-303

eCCPM

electronic Cyclic Collective Pitc

Mixing

. . . . .

PLEASE READ THIS MANUAL FULLY AND CAREFULLY!

Audacity Models . . . where performance exceeds expectations!

For updates, visit:

www.audacitymodels.com

SKIDS, CANOPY, & FUEL TANK

Page 62

11.6

PARTS LIST

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY REMARKS

AH-0007 LANDING SKID ASSEMBLY

LANDING SKID 2 SKID CAP 4

AH-0019 RUBBER GROMMET SET

RUBBER GROMMET 4

AH-0021 CABIN MOUNT STANDOFF SET

FRONT STANDOFF (10mm x 1) 2 REAR STANDOFF (20mm x 1) 2

AH-0028 FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

FUEL TANK (14 oz) 1 FUEL TANK CLUNK PICKUP 1 FEED NIPPLE 1 RUBBER TANK GROMMET 1 SILICONE FUEL TUBE 1 M7 FLAT WASHER (7x12x1) 1 M7 NUT 2 RUBBER MOUNTING GROMMET 4

AH-0033 LANDING GEAR STRUT ASSEMBLY

LANDING GEAR STRUT 2 M3x6 SET SCREW 4

AH-0053 RUBBER MOUNTING GROMMET SET

RUBBER MOUNTING GROMMET 4

AH-0549 STICKER

STICKER 1

AH-0550 MANUAL

MANUAL 1

AH-1008 FUEL TANK RUBBER GROMMET

FUEL TANK RUBBER GROMMET 2

AH-1016 BODY SET

BODY 1 CANOPY 1 M2x8 TAPPING SCREW 6 RUBBER GROMMET 4

AH-1017 CANOPY ASSEMBLY

CANOPY 1 M2x8 TAPPING SCREW 6

AH-1025 ANTENNA GUIDE TUBE

NTENNA GUIDE TUBE 1

All screws, washers, nuts, and bearings on 11.7 Hardware List

Page 63

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

AH-2001 STAINLESS STEEL BALL JOINT SET AH-3042 M2x8 SELF TAPPING SCREW 1

STAINLESS STEEL BALL JOINT 1 AH-3044 M2.6x12 SELF TAPPING SCREW 1 M2x8 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW

H-3045M3x6 SELF TAPPING SCREW 1

H-2002 STAINLESS STEEL BALL JOINT SET

STAINLESS STEEL BALL JOINT 1 M2x10 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

AH-2003 HD BALL LINK END, LONG 1 AH-3050 M2.3x12 THREADED ROD 1

H-2004 1

H-3051 M2.3x20 THREADED ROD 1

H-3052 M2.3x30 THREADED ROD 1

H-3053 M2.3x40 THREADED ROD 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

H-3055M2.3x50 THREADED ROD 1

H-3001 M2x8 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

H-3002 M2x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

AH-3003 M2.6x12 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

AH-3004 M3x6 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1 AH-3060 M2 FLAT WASHER 1 AH-3005 M3x8 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1 AH-3061 M2.6 FLAT WASHER 1

H-3006 M3x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

H-3062 M3 FLAT WASHER 1

H-3007 M3x12 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

H-3008 M3x14 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

AH-3009 M3x15 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

H-3010 M3x22 SOCKET HEAD SHOULDER BOLT 1

H-3063 M3 LOCK WASHER 1

H-3011 M3x30 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

H-3012 M3x38 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

AH-3013 M4x30 SOCKET HEAD SHOULDER BOLT 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

H-3014 M3x35 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

H-3064 M2 PERMANENT PUSH NU

H-3015M2.6x10 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

H-3025M3x3 SOCKET HEAD BOLT 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

H-3065M11 SNAP RING 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

H-3020 M2.6 NYLON LOCK NUT 1

AH-3021 M3 NYLON LOCK NUT 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

H-3022 M4 NYLON LOCK NUT 1

H-3066 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

H-3023 M2 HEX NU

H-3067 7x12x1 FLAT WASHER 1

H-3024 M7 HEX NU

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

AH-3071 L840ZZ 4x8x3 1 AH-3030 M3x3 SET SCREW 1 AH-3072 HF0612 Oneway 6x10x12 1 AH-3031 M3x4 SET SCREW 1 AH-3073 L630ZZ 3x6x2.5 1 AH-3032 M3x5 SET SCREW 1 AH-3074 L1350ZZ 5x13x4 1 AH-3033 M3x6 SET SCREW 1 AH-3075 L1050ZZ 5x10x4 1 AH-3034 M3x12 SET SCREW 1 AH-3077 L1910ZZ 10x19x7 1 AH-3035 M3x15 SET SCREW 1 AH-3080 R1950ZZ 5X19X6 1 AH-3036 M4x4 SET SCREW 1 AH-3081 R1960ZZ 6x19x6 1

H-3037 M4x6 SET SCREW 1

H-3082 R840ZZ 3x7x3 1

PART # DESCRIPTION QTY

AH-3040 M2x8 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW 1

H-3041 M2x10 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW 1

SPRING PINS

BALL LINK & ENDS

SOCKET HEAD BOLTS

NYLON LOCK NUTS

SELF TAPPING SCREWS

THREADED ROD

FLAT WASHERS

LOCK WASHERS

PERMANENT PUSH NUTS

SNAP RINGS

FLAT WASHERSHEX NUTS

SET SCREWS

PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS

BEARINGS

HARDWARE LIST

11.7

Page 64

12.0

ACCESSORIES

PRO-0063 - Training Gear PRO-0004 - Filter Filter T PRO-0062 - Exhaust Deﬂector 35

PRO-0061 - 3D Hopper Tank (3oz)

PRO-0057P - 3D Paddles (pink)

PRO-0057W (white), PRO-0059 (yellow)

PRO-0003 - Shutoff & Plug (2-yellow)

PRO-0065 - Limited Slip Drive PRO-0056 - Fuel Filters (2-clear)PRO-0009P - Skid Guard (pink)

PRO-0009W (white), PRO-0009Y (yellow)

PRO-0053 - PRO Mufﬂer 50 PRO-0016 - Hopper Tank (2oz)

PRO-0065 - PRO mini-pump

(compatible w/glo-fuel and gasoline)

Ult

ra high qua

lit

y accessories, which won’t break the bank, crafted

by our crew. PROMODELER . . . when it’s more than a hobby

www.promodeler.com

Page 65

12.1

ACCESSORIES

PRO-0050 - Flight Box (yellow)

www.promodeler.com

Ult

ra high qua

lit

y accessories, which won’t break the bank, crafted

by the crew at PROMODELER . . . when it’s more than a hobby!

Designed to store your transmitter, starter and battery, a gallon of fuel, plus the usual accoutrements like spare plugs, tools, field charger, battery tester and more, the superb PROMODELER Flight Box is perf

ect for the experienced pro. Molded in bright Cub yellow to reflect the sun, the strong and durable PVC design assmebles in minutes using a screwdriver - no painting! With a nifty storage top that lif

ts and pivots into place transforming into a conveniently angled transmitter stand, your tranny is both positioned for ready access and off the ground. Unlike old-fashioned painted wood, clean up is easy too as the fuel proof Flight Box shines with just soap and water.

Combining high-tech design and

low-tech prac

ticality, for what’s really needed at the

field, the pros pack a PROMODELER Flight Box.

Page 66

ACCESSORIES

12.2

Better than show-and-tell because you can play it over and over. Watch both how a properly set-up helicopter perf

orms, and hear what it should sound like! Learn the insider’s tips and tricks as different mechanical set-ups are performed. Fr

om what a beginner needs, through an expert’s 3D set-up, this program features several different helicopters. Models range from sport and aerobatic helicopters through electric and even scale. Two leading radio-brands are demonstrated (Futaba and JR) to include conventional and CCPM set-ups! There are even tips for setting up helicopter engines, preventive maintenance, tools,

ﬂight simulators and more! But that’s

not all as you’

re guided through a ﬂight training process that starts with skidding an inch off the ground and culminates in your learning the nose-in hover.

Because helicopter ﬂight starts and ends in a hover, this 2-hour long program is perfect for gaining the conﬁdence to set your model up correctly and learn to hover it . . . you can succeed!

RCB002 - R/C Basics: Hover - Flight Training

At last, an easy way to learn to ﬂy R/C helicopters! From the producers of modelSPORT video-magazine comes R/C Basics: Hover - Flight Training!

Surf to www.modelsport.com to get your own personal copy!

Learn to tune and adjust model engines like a pro! From the producers of modelSPORT video-magazine comes R/C Basics: aboutENGINES

R/C model engines can be both frustrating and confusing,

but

with the help of this nearly 3-hour long program, you’

ll soon

be tuning engines like a pro - it’s

loaded with tips! From a

standard .46-class ABC engine to sophisticated multi-c

ylinder

4-strokes and gas burners, you’

ll soon be up to speed. Learn

about fuel systems, equipment and tools,

safety, and even

about gasoline vs. alcohol fuels.

You’ll learn about Walbro pump-carburetors, how to adjust valves, tips and tricks for ﬁne tuning 2-needle carbs, heat ranges of glo plugs,

and even

arcane secrets like how to read spark plug color! You’

ll also learn about engine handling techniques, engine assembly tricks, and more! ABC-class engines break in differently from ringed helicopter engines - and you’ll know why and how to do it properly. Why take years to learn what the pros know?

RCB003 - R/C Basics: aboutENGINES

www.modelsport.com

Page 67

Audacity Models . . . where performance exceeds expectations!

www.audacitymodels.com

A paper document like this manual freezes in time the technical knowledge, how-to tips, programming ideas, and everything else we subsequently learn about the Tiger 50. We encourage you to visit our website for updates, as well as other bits of info

rmation we may discover and share.