Educational Robot System SW-007
SKY WALKER
Manual: Model SW-007
© 2007 AREXX Engineering
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Contents
1. Product description Sky Walker 3
2. Soldering 4
2.1 Necessary tools 4
2.2 Soldering techniques 5
2.3 Troubleshoot soldering mistakes 6
3. Electronic components 7
3.1 List of electronic parts 9
3.2 The soldering job 10
3.3 Electronic circuit test 11
3.4 Electronic trouble shooting 12
4. Information electronic parts 13
5. Electronics 17
5.1 Block diagram 17
5.2 Explanation black diagram 17
5.3 Function description of electronic parts 18
6. Mechanics 20
6.1 List of mechanical parts 22
6.2 Instructions mechanical assemby 23
7. Test of the Sky Walker 29
7.1 Mechanical test 29
7.2 Final assembly 30
8. Information about gears 32
A. Appendix A 33
© English translation (July 2007): AREXX Engineering (NL).
This description is protected by the laws of copyright. Any partial or total reproduction of the contents
is prohibited without prior written authorisation of the manufacturer:
AREXX Engineering - Zwolle (NL).
The manufacturer and distributor cannot be held responsible for any damages occurred by mishandling,
mounting mistakes or misuse due to a non-respect of the instructions contained in this manual.
The specication, shape and size of the product are subject to change without prior notice.
Manufacturer:
Jama Co., Ltd.
Tachung TAIWAN
© 2007 AREXX Engineering
Importer:
AREXX Engineering
ZWOLLE The Netherlands
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When you have a pre-soldered
Robot (Model SW-007A), please
start with Chapter 6 on page 20.
Technical assistance
during the construction
of the robot:
www.arexx.com
1. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION SKY WALKER
The Sky Walker is a striking robot with two sensors. One sensor watches the light
intensity, the other listens to sounds. When there is a sound or light effect, the Sky
Walker reacts on it by walking for a few seconds and then it automatically stops.
High on his four legs, the Sky Walker walks kind of wobbly. It looks as if he is walking
on clouds. Therefore, his name Sky Walker could not be more appropriate.
With this educational robot project, everybody can learn the basic principles of electronics. Building the robot already brings a lot of fun. You feel great building a real working
electronic system out of all separate parts, which responds to changes in light and
sound.
Specications:
Power voltage : 1.5 Volt
Power source : 1 Penlite battery (not included)
Power consumption (moving) : About 400 mA
Power consumption (at rest) : About 130 mA
Height : 135 mm
Diameter : 105 mm
u No return is possible after having opened the bags with components and pieces
u Prior to the assembly read the manual thoroughly.
u Be careful when using tools.
u Keep this kit away from young children during construction and operation.
(They might get hurt by the tools or swallow small components).
u Observe the correct polarity of the battery.
u Keep the battery dry. When the Sky Walker gets wet remove the battery and let the
Sky Walker dry for some time.
u Remove the battery when you are not using the Sky Walker for a longer period.
u Children below 14 should only assemble this product with the help of adults.
Warning
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Before you start soldering we will give you some advise and instructions:
Please read the complete soldering instructions before you start. Work accurately and follow the
instructions in this manual exactly to avoid problems.
2.1 Necessary Tools:
Soldering iron
(15 to 30W)
Electronic Solder
0,8- bis 1mm
Use an electronic soldering iron about 20 to
30 Watt. A soldering iron with more power
can overheat sensitive components and the
PCB traces. When the power is too low, sol-
dering is hard and the solder will not ow well.
Normally you also should have a soldering
standard to store the iron safely and a sponge
to clean the tip of the soldering iron.
Use thin electronic rosin core solder
with a diameter of about 1mm. Do not
use liquid ux or an ux solder paste for
electronic circuits.
Always use the right type and size screw-
driver you need the philips type for M2
and M3 screws.
Electronic cutter &
atnose plier
2. SOLDERING
The correct tools already
do half of the job!
Soldering standard with a wet
sponge to clean the tip
Use a safe and solid standard
Use electronic tools (150 mm).
Desoldering wick
To suck solder from a PCB to remove
components for small repairs.
Electronic screwdriver set
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PASTE
2.2 Soldering techniques:
Only use lead free ROSIN CORE solder!
Never use any liquid or paste ux!
Hold the iron like a pencil and
only heat the component wire
for a few seconds.
Correct position for professional soldering
Only add a little solder
each time
1. Preheat the solder area which
must be soldered AND the
component wire with the tip of the
iron. Do NOT overheat it!
4. Take away the soldering iron.
DO NOT MOVE the component
or PCB!
Please NOTICE the correct positioning of the components, see the drawings below:
2. Add some solder to the
soldering area and
component wire but NOT
TOO MUCH!
5.Cut away the long component
wire just above the soldering spot.
3. Remove the solder and let
the hot liquid solder ow.
The END RESULT is a nice and
shiny soldering spot which is
attached to the PCB copper and
component wire.
WRONG
GOOD
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Repair of a damaged PCB:
When the trace is broken or the path is damaged,
remove the mask on the copper trace with a screwdriver
or a knife and bend the component wire to the trace.
Solder a piece of wire from trace to trace or from
component to trace.
2.3 Troubleshoot soldering mistakes:
Cold PCB
Solder is attached to the
component wire but not to
the PCB copper.
Cold component
Solder is attached to the
PCB Copper but not to the
component wire.
Wire bridge
Two separate components are
connected with a wire to each
other making a short cut
Not enough solder
Solder did not ow
Bridge of solder
Two separate solder spots
are connected to each other
making a short circuit
Perfect solder connection
The soldering surface looks
nice and shiny!
The PCB is made of a copper trace on a non-conductive substrate which connects
the components, who are soldered to solder paths, electrically with eachother. Copper
surfaces which will not be soldered are often coated with a mask to make it solder
resistant. This mask also protects the copper against oxidating. When we overheat the
copper traces or solder paths, the copper may vaporate or loosen from the substrate.
To repair this we must remove the protective mask carefully with a screwdriver or
small knife. See below how you can repair a damaged PCB.
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3. ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
Variable Resistor
(Potentiometer)
Resistor
Ceramic capacitor
When the component has a marking near the legs the polarity is extreme important !
Assembly with the wrong polarity can dammage the component or the complet circuit!
Component Assembly PCB symbol Circuit symbol
Electrolytic
capacitor (ELCO)
-
Transistor
+
B and E are just an
example, position can
change per type
PNP type
NPN type
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Switch
Component Assembly PCB symbol Circuit symbol
PHTR
E
Transparent
or black
Microphone
Lamp
Red
Terminal pin
C
Bottom
view
sig
Gnd is connected
with the metal body
gnd
E
sig
C
gnd
ECM
Motor
Battery (not included)
MOTOR (terminal) M1, M2
No symbol
SW (terminal) S1, S2
+
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3.1 List of electronic parts:
Wire preparation:
Put the soldering wick
on the solder path.
Heat the wick and the
path with the soldering
iron and the copper
braid of the wick will
suck the solder.
When the wick
removed all the
solder from the
path, pull back the
wick and the
soldering iron simul-
taneously
Resistors 0,25 Watt; 5% Marking: Quantity:
… 15 Ω R13 (Brown, Green, Black, Gold) 1 pc.
… 1 KΩ R1, R3, R7, R8 (Brown, Black, Red, Gold) 4 pcs.
… 3.9 KΩ R2, R4, R12 (Orange, White, Red, Gold) 3 pcs.
… 27 KΩ R11 (Red, Violet, Orange, Gold) 1 pc.
… 47 KΩ R10 (Yellow, Violet, Orange, Gold) 1 pc.
… 100 KΩ R5, R6 (Brown, Black, Yellow, Gold) 2 pcs.
… 2.2 MΩ R9 (Red, Red, Green, Gold) 1 pc.
Variable resistors Marking: Quantity:
… 100 KΩ VR1, VR2 (104) 2 pcs.
Ceramic capacitors Marking: Quantity:
… 22 nF C3, C4 (223) 2 pcs.
… 1 nF C6 * Already soldered to the motor ! *1 pcs. (motor C)
ELCO’s Marking: Quantity:
… 3.3 µF C1, C5 (3.3 µF/50V) 2 pcs.
… 100 µF C2 (100 µF/16V) 1 pc.
Semi conductors Marking: Quantity:
… A1015 or A733 TR1, TR5 (2SA1015 or 2SA733) 2 pcs.
… C1815 or C945 TR2, TR3, TR4 (2SC1815 or 2SC945) 3 pcs.
… D2001 or D734 TR6 (2SD2001/2SD2120 or 2SD734) 1 pc.
… Phototransistor PHTR (SFH309) 1 pc.
Divers Marking: Quantity:
… PCB AREXX DG-SKY (arexx) 1 pc.
… Microphone EMC (Condensor type for PCB) 1 pc.
… Switch SW (Slide switch with wires) 1 pc.
... Termininal pin S1, S2, M1, M2 (1 mm Typ) 4 pcs.
… Motor M (1,5 Volt DC Motor) 1 pc.
… Motor cable With terminals at each end (Blue, Orange) 2 pcs.
… Battery holder VCC (1 pc. AA type) 1 pc.
... Light bulb Lamp1, Lamp2 (red color lamp) 2 pcs.
... Black wire For lamp assembly (About 8 cm wire) 1 pcs.
... Tube White and Black (About 5 cm tube) 1 pcs./ Color
5mm
Remove about 5mm of the
plastic wire insulation
Desoldering
When you made a soldering failure, you can easily remove the mistaken component with wick.
Twist the copper wires
when necessary
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Pre-solder the copper wire. This step
makes it more easy to solder the wire
later on.
3.2 The soldering job:
First please check if all parts are complete
with help of the parts list on page 9 and the
circuit on page 18.
The markings on the PCB show exactly at
which location you should solder the parts. If
you need more information, please check the
drawing of the PCB.
We always start to solder the lowest and non
critical parts, these are normally the resistors
and ceramic capacitors, and nish with the
higher critical parts like Elco's and semiconductors like transistors and LEDs.
We advise to cut the component wires
directly after soldering, so they will not be in
the way when you start soldering other parts.
THE POSITION AND POLARITY OF THE ICs, ELCOs, DIODES, TRANSISTORS, LEDs AND PHTR ARE MOST IMPORTANT,
OTHERWISE THE ROBOT MAY NOT FUNCTION CORRECTLY OR IN THE WORST CASE, COMPONENTS GET DAMAGED!
1) Start with the resistors.
2) Then we solder the potentiometers to the PCB.
3) After that, we solder the 4 terminal pins.
4) In this step we solder all ceramic capacitors.
In the following steps we will solder the more critical parts. It is important to solder the
correct type and the correct polarity. Take care not to overheat these parts with your
soldering iron.
5) Start with the Elcos and notice the correct polarity with the plus and minus marking.
6) Solder the transistors, be sure you solder the correct types and correct polarity.
7) Solder the microphone and pay attention to the correct polarity!
8) At last you can solder the PHTR. The polarity is very important!
Final PCB soldering are the lamps and the battery holder
The LAMPS must be soldered with 25mm leg length.
** IMPORTANT NOTICE FOR THE LAMPS:
Very important is to put a tube (20mm) over each leg of the LAMPS after
you solder it! This tube will protect the LAMPS against a short circuit.
Lamp preparation (only when the lamp wires are to short):
Micophone!
Gnd is connected
with the metal body
1) Cut 25 mm wire and remove insulation
5mm (see page 9 wire preparation).
2) Solder the wire to the lamp.
Tube white 20mm
4) Put the tube over the wires so there will
be no shortcut between the wires.
3) cut 2 pcs of
20 mm white tube.
Bend the lamps 15mm and 10mm length,
same way as shown on the picture.
The last part is the battery holder and also
here the polarity (red + and black wire -)
is realy important.
The battery holder itself is xed to the PCB
with double sided tape.
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3.3 Electronic circuit test
*) Switch on the robot, lamps will glow.
1) Clap your hands.
2) The motor should rotate for a few seconds and then automatically stop.
3) Shade the light sensor with your hand.
4) The motor should rotate for a few seconds and then automatically stop.
Please notice!
We did not draw the lamps on this PCB!
But it is realy important that the lamp legs are
covered with a tube so there will be no shortcut!
Before you start with the mechanical assembly we do a simple test to check the function of the electronic circuit.
PREPARATION
First we have to connect the switch to the PCB. Connect the 2 black wires of the switch to the SW
terminals on the PCB.
Now we have to connect the motor to the PCB. Connect the orange and blue wire to the motor terminals and
connect the other end of the wire to the motor terminals on the PCB. The position of the terminals is not so
important.
Insert the battery.
PLEASE NOTE THE POLARITY! (+ and -).
At last: Adjust the variable resistors into the middle position.
TEST
NOTE!
You can adjust the sound sensor sensitivity with VR1.
You can adjust the light sensor sensitivity with VR2.
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When you adjust the variable
resistors, please use a good tting
screwdriver. Always rotate it very
slowly without any force.
To improve the sensivity of the light
sensor you must put a small piece
(5mm) of tube over the PHTR sensor.
See drawing above
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