NOTE: General specifications for each 2023 Arctic
Cat Snowmobile can be accessed from the Arctic Cat
Cat Tracker Dealer Communication System.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in
this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are
not designed to depict actual conditions.
This Service Manual contains service and maintenance
information for 2023 Arctic Cat 9000 snowmobile models. The manual is designed to aid service personnel in
service-oriented applications.
This manual is divided into sections that cover specific
snowmobile components or systems and, in addition to
the standard service procedures, include assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions. When using this
manual as a guide, the technician should use discretion as
to how much disassembly is needed to correct any given
condition.
The service technician should become familiar with the
operation and construction of the components or systems
by carefully studying the complete manual. This will
assist the service technician in becoming more aware of
and efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency
not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves
time and labor.
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals display the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize
important information. The symbol ! WARNING
identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to
follow the directive because it deals with the possibility
of severe personal injury or even death. A CAUTION
identifies unsafe practices which may result in snowmobile-related damage. Follow the directive because it deals
with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the
snowmobile. The symbol NOTE: identifies supplementary information worthy of particular attention.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs,
and illustrations were technically correct. Some photographs and illustrations used in this manual are used for
clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual
conditions. Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and
improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.
All materials and specifications are subject to change
without notice.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc.
Snowmobile Identification
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identification numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side footrest or
on top of the tunnel. The decal also displays pertinent
production information. The Engine Serial Number
(ESN) is stamped into the crankcase of the engine.
These numbers are required to complete warranty claims
properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat if
the engine serial number or VIN is removed or mutilated
in any way.
Recommended Gasoline
and Oil
CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol.
Only Arctic Cat-approved gasoline additives should be
used.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmobiles
is 87 octane regular unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates
are added to the gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are acceptable gasolines.
When using ethanol-blended gasoline, adding a gasoline
antifreeze is not necessary since ethanol will prevent the
accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
RECOMMENDED OIL
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may
cause serious damage.
The recommended oil to use is Synthetic C-TEC4 Oil
(p/n 6639-529 — gal.). After the engine break-in period,
the engine oil and filter should be changed every 2500
miles (4000 km) or before prolonged storage.
Engine Break-In
The engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a short
break-in period before the engine is subjected to heavy
load conditions.
This engine does not require any pre-mixed fuel during
the break-in period.
There is never a more important period in the life of the
engine than the first 300 miles (500 km).
Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive
load on it for the first 300 miles (500 km). The various
parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged
full throttle operation or any condition that might result
in engine overheating must be avoided.
2
Operating your snowmobile for the first time: Start the
engine and let it idle for 15 minutes.
0-100 miles (0-160 km): Avoid prolonged operation
above 6000 RPM.
100-300 miles (160-500 km): Avoid prolonged operation
above 8000 RPM.
300 miles (500 km) and beyond: The snowmobile can
now be operated normally.
NOTE: After 500 miles (800 km) of operation, the
engine oil must be changed and the oil filter replaced.
If any engine trouble should occur during the engine
break-in period, immediately have an Arctic Cat
dealer check the snowmobile.
Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of 25 miles (40 km).
Drive the snowmobile for 25 miles (40 km) at 3/4 throttle
or less. By revving the engine up and down (but not
exceeding 60 mph [97 km/h]), the exposed cord on the
side of a new belt will be worn down. This will allow the
drive belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend
drive belt life.
NOTE: Before starting the snowmobile in extremely
cold temperatures, the drive belt should be removed
and warmed up to room temperature. Once the drive
belt is at room temperature, install the drive belt (see
Drive Belt sub-section in the Drivetrain/Track/Brake
Systems section of this manual).
CAUTION
Running the engine with the drive belt removed could
result in serious engine damage and drive clutch failure.
Genuine Parts
When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine
Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high
quality and correct fit.
The normal setting for front ski suspension is as little
spring preload tension as possible for powder snow riding allowing the skis to float across the snow with the
least amount of resistance. Trail riding will require more
spring tension to carry the varying load more effectively.
Many different settings and spring tensions to consider
exist when adjusting for riding style and snow conditions.
The rear suspension has a number of spring settings that
produce different riding characteristics.
The front arm spring and shock will also affect the ride
and handling when either on a trail or in powder snow. A
strong spring setting on this shock will cause the snowmobile to tend to “dig” more when riding in the powder
snow rather than climbing up on top of the snow. But, it
will work more effectively when riding on a trail. A
softer spring setting will allow the front of the rear suspension to collapse much quicker and change the angle of
the track to the snow. A more gradual angle will tend to
raise the snowmobile up on the snow rather than digging
into it.
Many possible variables and adjustments to the rear suspension exist depending on snow conditions, riding style,
and type of terrain. These adjustments can be made to
individualize the snowmobile to the riding style of the
operator.
As snow cover and riding conditions change, several different adjustments can be made to change the ride and
handling characteristics for operator preference. Located
on the front suspension arm are limiter straps. They limit
the amount of “fallout” the front arm can have. These
straps may be adjusted in or out due to conditions and
riding style. The more the straps are brought up, the more
steering power the operator has due to the amount of ski
pressure.
Another adjustment that can be made on the rear suspension is the front arm shock spring tension. As trail conditions change, the spring preload may be used to decrease
the chance of the front end “bottoming out.” With a
stiffer spring preload, the ride of the snowmobile will
improve on the trail but will affect the performance in the
deep powder snow. In deep powder snow, the stiffer
spring preload will cause the front-end to “dig” and possibly take longer for it to plane off. Several different-rate
springs are available for different riding styles and terrain
conditions.
Varying Altitude Operation
Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires
recalibration of drive system components.
Consult the appropriate specification sheet on Cat
Tracker Online.
Following are basic altitude theories for suspension:
SUSPENSION
The different riding styles of the individual operator, the
varying snow conditions, and the type of terrain are all
factors that affect the suspension at high altitude. Trail
riding versus powder snow riding versus combination
riding will all require different suspension settings.
On the standard models, the front shock springs are also
individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and
driving style of the operator. The spring adjuster has been
set at the factory so the correct amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock housing as an initial setting. Additional ski pressure can be
obtained by tightening the spring tension; ski pressure
can be decreased by relaxing spring tension. Springs with
different spring rates are available for operator choice
and snow conditions.
3
A limit exists as to how far you can preload the springs
before “coil bind” takes effect where the wire on the
spring actually runs into itself and causes binding. Equal
adjustments should be maintained on both sides of the
snowmobile. Finally, track tension should be looked at to
make sure that it is within recommended specifications to
affect the efficiency of the snowmobile. On models with
the torque sensing link, the track is actually tightening as
the suspension moves through its range of motion causing the track to sag in the middle and rub on the top part
of the rear suspension arm.
Preparation for Storage
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly serviced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration.
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic
Cat Vinyl Protectant.
10. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the
track off the floor by blocking up the back end making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the
snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
11. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position
the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the
entire snowmobile off the ground making sure the
snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting
bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with a machine
cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it
from dirt, dust, and rain.
CAUTION
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic
cover as moisture may collect on the snowmobile causing corrosion.
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil,
grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame,
tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile
to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part
of the engine.
3. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic
Cat Fuel Stabilizer to the gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline
ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
4. With the snowmobile level, check the lubricant level
in the chain case. If low, add chain lube through the
fill plug hole.
5. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
clutch. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a
cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
clutch and driven clutch.
6. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushings
and to the shafts of the shock absorbers; then lubricate the rear suspension with a low-temperature
grease.
7. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications. Make sure all rivets holding
the components together are tight. Replace all loose
rivets.
8. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with
Cat Cleaner. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS. THE PROPELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
9. Disconnect the battery cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable first; then clean the battery
posts and cables.
CAUTION
Sealed batteries require charging if left for extended
non-start periods. Arctic Cat recommends trickle
charging once a month. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions and cautions.
Preparation after Storage
Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly preparing it for another season will ensure many miles and
hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure:
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior
of the snowmobile.
2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the exhaust
system. Check exhaust system and air silencer for
obstructions.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear
or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or
tape to route wires and cables away from hot or rotating parts.
4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt
specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install
the drive belt (see the Drivetrain/Track/Brake Systems section).
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable con-
dition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in case
of emergency.
5. Adjust the throttle cable. Inspect all fuel hoses and
oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all connections are tight.
6. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications.
7. If not done during preparation for storage, lubricate
the rear suspension with a low-temperature grease.
8. Check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and
connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly
mixed coolant as necessary.
9. Charge the battery; then connect the battery cables
making sure to connect the positive cable first. Test
the electric start system.
4
10. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, headlight, taillight, brake light, ski wear bars, and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
11. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment.
After Break-In
Checkup/Checklist
Certain areas require adjustment after the break-in period
in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the
following:
DRIVE CLUTCH/DRIVEN CLUTCH
ALIGNMENT — The alignment between the drive
clutch and driven clutch are set at the factory. Normally,
no adjustment is necessary; however, if premature drive
belt wear or poor performance is experienced, the drive
clutch/driven clutch alignment must be checked.
TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT — A certain
amount of stretch occurs on all tracks during the first 500
miles (800 km). The track must be inspected/adjusted
after the first 50 to 100 miles (80 to 160 km) to the specifications given in the Track Specifications sub-section of
this section and periodically thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the track may “derail” which
leads to track and slide rail damage.
Along with these major areas, other areas should be
checked and adjusted.
Below is a list of items to check after the break-in period.
The recommended mileage for this inspection is between
100 and 300 miles (160 and 500 km).
R Check drive clutch/driven clutch alignment
R Adjust track tension and alignment
R Check throttle cable tension
R Check engine idle
R Check coolant level
R Check chain case lubricant level
R Check engine oil
R Check and adjust chain tension (free-play)
R Check lights (high/low beam, brake light)
R Check safety switch operation
R Check engine compartment for any rubbing com-
ponents
R Check steering hardware for tightness
R Check skid frame and A-arm mounting hardware
for tightness
R Check brake lever travel and adjustment
R Grease all lubrication points
Engine Specifications
ITEM
Engine Model Number8KJ
Displacement 998 cc
Compression Ratio9.0:1
Bore x Stroke80.0 x 66.2 mm (3.15 × 2.61 in.)
Cooling SystemLiquid
Spark Plug (NGK)CR8E
Spark Plug Gap0.71-0.79 mm (0.028-0.031 in.)
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.036-0.061 mm
Piston Pin Diameter 20.990-20.995 mm
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 21.004-21.015 mm
Piston Pin to Piston Pin Bore Clearance 0.009-0.025 mm
Connecting Rod: Small End Diameter21.005-21.027 mm
Crankshaft Pin/Connecting Rod: Big End
Clearance
Connecting Rod: Big End Diameter41.000-41.018 mm
Piston Ring End Gap (Top)
(2nd)
(Oil)
Piston Ring/Groove Clearance (1st/Top)
(2nd)
(Oil)
Piston Diameter (10 mm from bottom
edge)
Cam Lobe Height (Intake)
(Exhaust)
Cam Lobe Width (Intake/Exhaust)24.950-25.050 mm
Camshaft Journal Diameter24.46-24.47 mm
Camshaft Journal Clearance0.028-0.062 mm
Crank Pin Diameter37.976-38.000 mm
Crankshaft Runout (max)0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance0.027-0.045 mm
Crankshaft/Rod Bearing Clearance0.030-0.048 mm
Valve Clearance — Cold (Intake)
(Exhaust)
Valve Stem Diameter (Intake)
(Exhaust)
Valve Guide Inside Diameter (Intake)
(Exhaust)
Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (Intake)
(Exhaust)
Valve Face Width (Intake/Exhaust) 0.90-1.10 mm (0.035-0.043 in.)
Intake Open (BTDC)35.0 degrees
Intake Closed (ABDC)45.0 degrees
Exhaust Open (BBDC)45.0 degrees
Exhaust Closed (ATDC)35.0 degrees
Valve Overlap70.0 degrees
VALVE TIMING
(0.0014-0.0024 in.)
(0.8264-0.8266 in.)
(0.8269-0.8274 in.)
(0.0003-0.0009 in.)
(0.8269-0.8278 in.)
0.030-0.048 mm
(0.0012-0.0019 in.)
(1.6142-1.6149 in.)
0.35-0.45 mm (0.014-0.018 in.)
0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033 in.)
0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014 in.)
0.030-0.065 mm
(0.0012-0.0026 in.)
0.020-0.055 mm
(0.0008-0.0022 in.)
0.040-0.140 mm
(0.0016-0.0055 in.)
79.95-79.96 mm
(3.1476-3.1480 in.)
33.750-33.850 mm
(1.3287-1.3327 in.)
33.750-33.850 mm
(1.3287-1.3327 in.)
(0.9823-0.9862 in.)
(0.9630-0.9635 in.)
(0.0011-0.0024 in.)
(1.4951-1.4961 in.)
(0.0011-0.0018 in.)
(0.0012-0.0019 in.)
0.15-0.22 mm (0.0059-0.0087 in.)
0.21-0.25 mm (0.0083-0.098 in.)
4.475-4.490 mm
(0.1762-0.1677 in.)
4.460-4.475 mm
(0.1756-0.1762 in.)
4.500-4.512 mm
(0.1772-0.1776 in.)
4.500-4.512 mm
(0.1772-0.1776 in.)
0.010-0.037 mm
(0.0004-0.0015 in.)
0.025-0.052 mm
(0.0010-0.0020 in.)
5
Electrical Specifications
(Normally Closed Ignition)
ComponentTest Value + Test Connections -
Magneto Coil (3 tests)*0.15-0.23 ohmwhitewhite
Primary Ignition Coil*1.19-1.61 ohms
Secondary Ignition Coil*8500-11,500 ohms
Crankshaft Position Sensor336-504 ohmsblue/whitegreen/white
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier*12-14.5 DC Voltsterminalterminal
Magneto Coil (no load)36-44 AC Voltswhitewhite
Ignition SwitchLess than 1 ohm (key in ON position)terminalterminal
* Harness plugged in
NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially
those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter rope or
after the engine has been started.
A list of drive system components that are available
through the Arctic Cat Service Parts Department can be
found in the POGA Reference Guide. This information
will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive
system.
NOTE: The track tension should be 20 lb @ 2 in. (9 kg
@ 50.8 mm).
137” (3480 mm)1.25” (31.8 mm)
146” (3708 mm)1.6” (40.6 mm)
1.75” (44.5 mm)
Vehicle Speed (mph)
IFP Shock Specifications
Below is a list of IFP shock absorbers used on the front
and rear suspensions of Arctic Cat snowmobiles. If
replacing a shock absorber, always select a shock
absorber with the same length, both collapsed and
extended.
FRONT ARM
Model
ZR 9000 Thundercat/
Riot 9000
Collapsed
Length
8.55”
(217.2 mm)
Extended
Length
12.49”
(317.2 mm)
Stroke
3.94”
(100.1 mm)
Piston
Depth
5.55”
(141 mm)
7
Torque ConversionsTorque Specifications
ft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-m
11.42635.45169.476103.4
22.72736.75270.777104.7
34.12838.15372.178106.1
45.42939.45473.479107.4
56.83040.85574.880108.8
68.23142.25676.281110.2
79.53243.55777.582111.5
810.93344.95878.983112.9
912.23446.25980.284114.2
1013.63547.66081.685115.6
11153649618386117
1216.33750.36284.387118.3
1317.73851.76385.788119.7
14193953648789121
1520.44054.46588.490122.4
1621.84155.86689.891123.8
1723.14257.16791.192125.1
1824.54358.56892.593126.5
1925.84459.86993.894127.8
2027.24561.27095.295129.2
2128.64662.67196.696130.6
2229.94763.97297.997131.9
2331.34865.37399.398133.3
2432.64966.674100.699134.6
2534506875102100136
NOTE: Always use new hardware when replacing a
cap screw that has patch-lock applied, or a nylon nut
or lock nut.
Tor queTole ran ce
0-15 ft-lb (0-20.3 N-m)
16-39 ft-lb (21.7-52.9 N-m)
40+ ft-lb (54.2+ N-m)
ItemSecured to
DRIVE SYSTEM
Drive ClutchEngine51
Drive Clutch CoverMovable Sheave120 in.-lb
Cam Arm Lock NutCam Arm Screw50 in.-lb
Driven ClutchDriven Shaft60
Movable SheaveTorque Bracket120 in.-lb
Chain Case (Cap Screw)Chassis10
Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw)Chassis13
Chain Case CoverChain Case108 in.-lb
Shift ActuatorChain Case Cover36 in.-lb
Brake CaliperChassis25
Outside Caliper HousingInside Caliper Housing25
Brake LineCaliper25
Brake LineMaster Cylinder25
Brake CaliperShield Cover96 in.-lb
Steering ArmChassis96 in.-lb
A-Arm (Upper)Chassis108 in.-lb
A-Arm (Lower)Chassis (Front)65
A-Arm (Lower)Chassis (Rear)45
A-Arm (Upper)Spindle20
A-Arm (Lower)Spindle45
Shock AbsorberSpindle32
Shock AbsorberChassis32
Sway Bar LinkA-Arm/Sway Bar Link23
Sway Bar Mounting BracketChassis108 in.-lb
REAR SUSPENSION
Wear StripRail50 in.-lb
End CapRail80 in.-lb
Mounting BlockRail12
Rear ArmRail45
Rear ArmIdler Arm55
Spring SlideRail20
Front ArmRail52
Coupler Block AxleRail40
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
Rear Wheel AxleRail34
Skid FrameTunnel45
Front ShockRail50
Rail SupportRail20
Limiter StrapFront Arm72 in.-lb
±20%
±15%
±10%
Tor que
ft-lb
96 in.-lb
55
20
55
20
32
8
Steering and Body
This section has been organized into sub-sections for servicing steering and body components; however, some
components may vary from model to model. The technician should use discretion and sound judgment when
removing and installing components.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A special tool must be available to the technician when
servicing the steering and body systems.
NOTE: When indicated for use, each special tool
will be identified by its specific name, as shown in the
chart below, and capitalized.
Descriptionp/n
Handlebar Stand
Steering Post Stand
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
5639-152
5639-946
0755-170
4. Remove the cap screws and handlebar caps securing
the handlebar to the top of the handlebar riser; then
remove the two Torx-head screws and nuts securing
the top of steering post to the chassis. Account for
both steering post blocks and a retaining plate.
Steering Post (EPS)
REMOVING
To remove the access panel and hood, use the following
procedure:
1. Rotate the two quarter turns to the vertical position;
then pull the top of the side panel out and up and off
the skid plate.
2. Disconnect the hood harness on the left side of the
hood; then loosen the two quarter turns securing the
front of the hood. Pull the hood forward and remove
the hood.
NOTE: On ATAC models, disconnect the suspen-
sion control module from the harness; then remove
the module and bracket from the chassis.
SNO-357
5. Carefully remove the steering post from the snowmobile.
INSTALLING
1. Align the gap of the steering post with the machined
notch in the EPS unit spines; then install the steering
post by moving it down until the cap screw hole in
the post aligns with the horizontal groove in the EPS
unit splines.
0755-169
3. Remove the cap screw and nut securing the steering
post to the EPS unit.
0755-173
2. Secure the steering post to the EPS unit using the
existing cap screw and a new lock nut. Tighten to 12
N-m (108 in.-lb).
9
0755-170
3. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate, steering
post blocks, and nuts. Make sure the throttle cable is
positioned between the steering post blocks. Tighten
to 11 N-m (96 in.-lb).
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply low-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position
the ski damper into the bottom of the ski making sure
the damper is properly positioned for the desired ski
stance.
SNO-357
4. Install the handlebar riser onto the top of the steering
post and secure using the existing cap screws and
caps. Tighten evenly to 27 N-m (20 ft-lb).
NOTE: On ATAC models, connect the suspension
control module to the harness; then attach the module
and bracket to the chassis.
5. Position the hood onto the snowmobile and connect
the hood harness connector and secure the two front
quarter turns.
6. Install the access panel into the skid plate; then close
the access panel and secure with the two quarter
turns.
Ski
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
washers.
ONS-139
ONS-152
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations regarding
maximum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or
regulations when adjusting ski stance.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
10
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb (47.6 N-m).
NOTE: Ensure that the cotter pin slot in the cap
screw is still horizontal with the ski (see illustration);
then proceed to step 5.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski Wear Bar
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the spindle bushings is difficult.
The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the
underside of the ski. If the snowmobile is operated primarily in deep snow, ski wear bar wear will be minimal;
however, if the snowmobile is operated on terrain where
the snow cover is minimal, the ski wear bar will wear
faster. Arctic Cat recommends that the ski wear bars be
replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter.
REMOVING
1. Raise the front of the snowmobile and secure with a
suitable stand.
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the wear bar to the
ski; then remove the wear bar.
INSTALLING
1. Install the wear bar into the ski making sure it is fully
seated using a rubber mallet.
2. Secure the wear bar with lock nuts. Tighten to 15
ft-lb (20.4 N-m).
Spindle
REMOVING
INSTALLING
1. Position the lower A-arm into the spindle; then loosely
secure with a new lock nut.
2. Position the upper A-arm end with the top of the spindle; then secure the A-arm end to the spindle using the
existing shoulder screw and tri-nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb
(27.2 N-m).
3. Remove the snowmobile from the support stand.
Tighten the lower A-arm lock nut to 45 ft-lb (61.2
N-m).
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joint to seat into the spindle before tightening the
nut.
4. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to 32
ft-lb (43.5 N-m).
5. Install the ski using the existing hardware and new cotter pin. Tighten the cap screws to 35 ft-lb (47.6 N-m).
6. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Steering Tie Rod
ONS-185
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety stand;
then remove the ski.
2. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle
arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
3. Remove the shoulder screw and the tri-nut securing the
upper A-arm to the spindle; then remove the lock nut
securing the spindle to the lower A-arm. Using a rubber
mallet, remove the spindle from the lower A-arm.
NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie
rods must be removed.
REMOVING
1. Remove both machine screws and nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod ends to the steering arm. Discard both nuts.
0755-178
11
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the steering tie rod
ends to the spindle arms. Account for the washers
and discard both nuts.
ONS-409
3. Slide the steering tie rod out of the steering boot and
out of the snowmobile.
4. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the steering
tie rod end to the steering arm. Discard the nut.
SNO-829A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Secure steering arm into position and secure using
the existing cap screw and flat washers, and new nut.
Tighten to 96 in.-lb (11 N-m).
0755-179
5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to
the steering post. Discard the nut.
0755-180
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is to
remove the steering arm, the reinforcement bracket will
need to be removed by drilling out the appropriate rivets.
6. Remove all Torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the cap screw and
nut securing the steering arm to the chassis. Account
for two washers and two bushings.
SNO-829A
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steering
post. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 55 ft-lb
(75 N-m).
0755-180
NOTE: Make sure the tie rod tab is fully seated into
the steering post and threads of the ball joint are
above the nut when tightened correctly.
3. Place the tie rod end into position on the steering tie
rod bracket. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb (27.2 N-m).
12
0755-179
4. Slide the steering tie rod through the steering boot
and into the snowmobile; then place the steering tie
rod into the spindle arm with the washer. Secure
with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 32 ft-lb (44 N-m).
2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered and
in the straight-ahead position.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
alignment procedure.
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge against
the outside edge of the track.
4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge of
the track so it lies near the inside edge of the left-side
ski.
NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough to
extend from the back of the track to the front of the
ski.
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approximately 7-8 in. (18-20 cm) in front of the spindle and
7-8 in. (18-20 cm) behind the spindle. Record the
measurements taken for the left side.
ONS-189
5. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering tie rod
bracket with the screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb (27.2 N-m).
0755-178
Ski Alignment
CHECKING
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to checking or adjusting ski alignment. Ski alignment must be performed on a flat,
level surface. Ski toe-out must fall within the range of
1/16-1/4 in (1.6-6.4 mm).
729-887A
0734-408
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-side
ski.
7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 7-8 in.
(18-20 cm) in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. (18-20
cm) behind the spindle. Record the measurements
taken for the right side.
1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high enough
to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
13
! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar bolts
to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to the
track), but the front measurement must never be less
(ski toed-in) or poor handling will be experienced. The
front wear bar bolt measurement to the straightedge
must not exceed the measurement from the rear wear
bar bolt to the straightedge (ski toed-out) by more than
5/32 in. (4 mm).
8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the alignment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straightedge.
ADJUSTING
NOTE: The following procedure can be used to
adjust the alignment of either ski.
NOTE: The rivets securing the steering boots will have
to be removed in order to adjust the inner tie rod ends.
1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered position.
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,” rotate
the spindle tie rod until recommended specification
is attained.
! WARNING
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must
never be less than the measurement taken behind the
spindle or poor handling will be experienced. Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts may
cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
A-Arms
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the Torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
3. Remove the eight push rivets securing the steering
boot to the chassis; then slide the boot away from the
chassis.
4. Apply blue Loctite 243 to each jam nut thread area;
then tighten the jam nuts against the spindle tie rod.
NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if neces-
sary) until ski toe-out is within specification.
! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury.
VERIFYING
1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
verify ski alignment by measuring across from the
outside edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the outside edge of the right-side wear bar bolts (without
using the straightedge) in two places: approximately
7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the
spindle.
2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to the
outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using the
straightedge) must not exceed the rear measurement
by more than 1/16-1/4 in. toe-out (1.6-6.4 mm).
SNO-763
4. Remove the ski shock.
5. Remove the shoulder screw and tri-nut securing the
upper A-arm and the lower lock nut securing the
lower A-arm. Using a rubber mallet, remove the
lower arm from the spindle. Discard the lower lock
nut.
0734-408
14
ONS-190
6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
sway bar link to the lower arm.
SNO-764
7. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower A-arm to the chassis; then slide the boot
from the arm and remove the arm.
8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 108 in.-lb (12.2 N-m).
SNO226A
3. Secure the sway bar link to the lower arm with the
cap screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to 23 ft-lb
(31.3 N-m).
SNO-764
4. Position the lower A-arm into the spindle; then
loosely secure with a new lock nut.
5. Position the upper A-arm end with the top of the
spindle; then secure the A-arm end to the spindle
using a new shoulder screw and tri-nut. Tighten to 20
ft-lb (27.2 N-m).
6. Tighten the lower A-arm lock nut to 45 ft-lb (61.2
N-m).
SNO-572
2. Slide the lower arm into the boot; then place the arm
into position on the chassis. Secure with the cap
screws and new nyloc nuts and tighten to 65 ft-lb
(88.4 N-m) (front) and 45 ft-lb (61.2 N-m) (rear).
7. Install the ski shock absorber. Tighten to 32 ft-lb
(43.5 N-m).
8. Place the front skid plate into position; then secure
with the Torx-head screws.
NOTE: On models with FOX iQS shocks, once the
shocks are installed, route the wires around the shock
and connect to the shock making sure they click into
place. Cable tie the wires to the shock body.
YM-218
15
2. Inspect the sway bar arms for cracks or damage.
Ski Shock Absorber
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand taking all pressure off the skis.
2. Remove the cap screws securing the shock absorber
to the chassis and the lower A-arm; then remove the
shock absorber. Account for all mounting hardware.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
1. Inspect the shock absorber seal area for signs of
excessive oil leakage.
2. Inspect the shock absorber mounting eyelet, bushings, and sleeve for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the threaded shock sleeve for damage or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Using the Shock Spring Removal Tool, place the
spring on the shock absorber and secure with the
retainer.
2. Adjust the retainer nut (spring adjuster) (if applicable) until the specified amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock
housing (noted in removing) as an initial setting.
3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each
shock end; then place the shock absorber into position and secure with the cap screws and new lock
nuts. Tighten the lock nuts to 32 ft-lb (43.5 N-m).
3. Inspect the links, bushings, bushing retainers, and
hardware for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the sway bar into the sway bar mounting
brackets; then install the sway bar into the snowmobile. Secure with the Torx-head screws and tighten to
96 in.-lb (10.8 N-m).
2. Secure the sway bar links to the sway bar and lower
A-arm with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb (31.3 N-m).
SNO-764
Front Bumper
REMOVING/INSTALLING
1. Remove both access panels and the hood.
Sway Bar
REMOVING
1. Remove the nyloc nuts and cap screws securing the
sway bar link to the lower A-arm and the sway bar.
SNO-764
2. Remove the Torx-head screws securing the sway bar
mounting brackets; then pull the sway bar out of the
snowmobile.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
fatigue, or wear.
2. Remove the eight Torx screws and washers securing
the front fascia and bumper to the chassis; then
remove the front center fascia.
XM494A
3. Remove the PDM from the PDM bracket; then
remove the front bumper assembly.
4. Using a punch and a hammer, remove the center of
the existing Huck rivets securing the PDM bracket to
the bumper.
5. Using a 6.4 mm (1/4-in.) drill bit, drill out the four
Huck rivets.
16
XM495
6. Secure the PDM bracket to the bottom side of new
front bumper using the four Huck rivets.
7. Position the front bumper assembly over the front of
the snowmobile and align with the previous mounting locations.
8. Secure the bumper to the intercooler assembly using
the existing four Torx screws. Tighten securely.
9. Install the PDM into the PDM bracket; then position
the front fascia and secure using the existing Torx
screws and washers. Tighten securely.
10. Install the hood and both access panels.
Seat Assembly
NOTE: On models with heated seats, be sure to discon-
nect the seat heater harness before removing the seat.
1. Remove the cap screw securing the rear of the seat;
then remove the seat.
SNO-227A
NOTE: On models with heated seats prior to lower-
ing and securing the seat, connect the seat heater harness connector.
Seat Cushion
REMOVING
1. Remove the seat assembly.
2. Using a sharp tool, pry out all staples securing the
seat cover to the plastic seat base.
3. From beneath the seat foam, remove the seat wire
from the two elastic loops; then remove the cover
from the seat base and seat foam.
INSTALLING
1. Position the cover over the seat foam and seat base;
then pull the two elastic loops through the slots in the
seat foam and secure with the seat wire. Check to
make sure it is positioned straight.
2. Fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around
the plastic base. Using a staple gun and 1/4 in. staples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to the plastic
base in the same areas as the original staples were
located. Position staples 1 in. (2.54 cm) apart.
SNO-261A
2. Route the front tab on the seat through the seat-base
hold-down bracket; then install the seat and secure
using the cap screw.
3. Fold the sides of the cushion down around the bottom edge of the plastic seat base. Position the staples
in the same area as the original staples were located.
NOTE: Note the cushion fit. If any wrinkles are
noted, remove by pulling the cushion material in the
appropriate direction before securing with staples.
4. Fold the front cushion material back and onto the
plastic seat base. Check for wrinkles and secure with
staples and two screws.
5. Install the seat assembly.
Taillight/Brake Light
Assembly
1. Remove the two machine screws securing the taillight to the taillight support; then disconnect the taillight harness connector.
17
SNO-511
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure
the taillight to the taillight support with the two
machine screws. Tighten to 48 in.-lb (5.4 N-m).
Rear Bumper/Snowflap
REMOVING BUMPER
1. Remove and retain only the two machine screws
securing the rear of the skid frame assembly.
2. Place cardboard or a suitable substitute on the floor
to protect the snowmobile from being scratched; then
install Steering Post Stand for the standard steering
models or Handlebar Stand for the adjustable steering models into the lower holes in the handlebar riser
(from the left-side) and tip the snowmobile onto its
left side.
3. Swing the skid frame assembly away from the chassis; then using a 3/16-in. drill bit, remove all rivets
securing the left-side of the bumper; then repeat for
opposite side.
Windshield/Console/
Headlight
REMOVING
1. Remove and retain all machine screws securing the
hood; then disconnect the console harness and
remove the hood assembly.
2. Remove the eight screws securing the windshield to
the console; then remove the windshield.
3. Remove the four screws securing the console.
0753-033
4. Disconnect the gauge, electrical accessory wires, and
the ignition switch.
5. Remove the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood (on the underside of the hood).
6. Loosen the two side headlight assembly screws; then
remove the two front headlight assembly screws.
4. Remove and retain the two machine screws and nuts
securing the front of the existing bumper to the chassis.
5. Remove the two rivets securing the snowflap to the
bumper. Remove the bumper.
INSTALLING BUMPER
1. Align the holes in the bumper with the existing holes
in the tunnel; then using new rivets, secure rear
bumper to the tunnel; then secure the snowflap to the
rear bumper using new rivets.
2. Secure the front of the bumper to the chassis using
the existing machine screws and nuts. Tighten
securely.
3. Install skid frame assembly using two existing
machine screws. Tighten securely.
REMOVING SNOWFLAP
1. Drill out the rivets securing the snowflap to the tunnel; then remove the snowflap.
INSTALLING SNOWFLAP
1. Secure the snowflap to the tunnel using the appropriate rivets.
0753-034
7. Remove the headlight assembly.
INSTALLING
1. With the headlight assembly in position, install the
front headlight assembly screws. Engage the side
headlight screws in the slots and tighten until snug.
2. Engage the side console tabs on the headlight assembly; then place the front of the console over the headlight assembly and press down until it snaps in place.
3. Install the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood. Tighten only until snug.
18
4. Place the windshield brace assembly into position
and secure to the console with the four screws.
Tighten until snug.
4. Make a vertical mark intersecting the horizontal
mark on the aiming surface directly in front of the
headlight.
5. Connect the gauge; then connect the electrical accessory wires and the ignition switch.
6. With the windshield in position, secure the windshield to the frame using the four screws. Tighten
securely.
7. Connect the console harness; then install the hood
assembly and secure with the screws.
Adjusting Headlight Aim
The headlight can be adjusted for vertical aim of the
HIGH/LOW beam. The geometric center of LOW beam
zone is to be used for vertical aiming.
1. Position the snowmobile on a level floor so the headlight is approximately 25 ft (7.62 m) from an aiming
surface (wall or similar surface).
NOTE: There should be an “average” operating
load on the snowmobile when adjusting headlight
aim.
2. Measure the distance from the floor to midpoint of
the headlight.
3. Using the measurement obtained in step 2, make a
horizontal mark on the aiming surface.
5. Engage the brake lever lock and start the engine.
Select the headlight dimmer switch LOW beam position. DO NOT USE HIGH BEAM.
6. Observe the headlight beam aim. Proper aim is when
the most intense beam is centered on the vertical
mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark on the
aiming surface.
7. Adjust the headlight using the adjusting screw on the
backside of the headlight housing until correct aim is
obtained. Shut the engine off; then disengage the
brake lever lock.
0750-309
19
Engine
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the technician when performing service procedures in this engine
section.
NOTE: When indicated for use, each special tool
will be identified by its specific name, as shown in the
chart below, and capitalized.
Descriptionp/n
Drive Clutch Bolt Tool
Drive Clutch Puller
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench
Engine Lift Plate
Hood Harness Extension
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
CAUTION
Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller
for the recommended puller or severe clutch or crankshaft damage will occur.
Engine Removing/Installing
0644-281
0744-062
0644-136
0744-073
1686-659
YM-176A
3. Remove the gas tank assembly.
4. Remove the cap screw from the secondary sheave
and slide the secondary sheave (along with the drive
belt) off the driven shaft. Account for alignment
washers and sheave adjuster.
5. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the primary sheave to the crankshaft.
6. Using Primary Sheave Puller, tighten the puller.
Remove the primary sheave.
NOTE: If the primary sheave will not release,
sharply strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step
until the sheave releases.
7. Remove the Torx-head screws and both access plates
from beneath the snowmobile.
8. Place a drain pan beneath the engine oil drain screw;
then remove the screw and allow the oil to drain
completely. After the oil has drained, install the drain
plug and tighten to 7.2 ft-lb (9.8 N-m).
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a
progression for the removing/installing the Arctic Cat
9000 engine. For consistency purposes, this sub-section
shows a complete and thorough progression; however,
for efficiency it may be preferable to remove only those
components needing to be addressed. Also, some components may vary from model to model. The technician
should use discretion and sound judgment.
Removing
NOTE: While removing the engine, note all cable tie
locations.
1. Remove both access panels; then loosen the two
quarter-turns securing the hood. Disconnect the hood
harness and pull the hood forward and off of the
snowmobile.
2. Remove the seat; then remove the gas cap and retaining nut from the neck of the gas tank. Remove the
eight screws securing the console. Remove the console.
YM-152A
9. Remove the four Torx-head screws securing the
right-side footrest to the tunnel and the support; then
with a drain pan in position, remove the drain plug
from the oil tank.
20
746-121A
NOTE: To aid in draining the oil from the reservoir,
position a funnel between the tank and the opening of
the tunnel running board.
10. After the oil has drained completely, install the drain
plug with a new O-ring and tighten to 16 ft-lb (21.8
N-m).
11. Using a suitable vacuum pump, remove the coolant
from the coolant filler neck and the reservoir tank.
12. Remove the five screws and washers securing the
turbo heat shield to the turbo. Remove the shield.
YM-181
13. Remove the cap screws and washers securing the
heat shield to the manifold.
YM-182A
15. Remove the six Torx screws securing the resonator
to the turbo; then remove the spring securing the resonator. Remove the resonator and account for a gasket.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of penetrating oil to
the Torx screws before removing the screws. Disassemble with hand tools and T50 ball head Torx bit
(p/n 0644-623).
YM-154
16. Remove the screws and washers securing the exhaust
heat shield to the tunnel.
YM-155
14. Apply a small amount of penetrating lubricant to the
threads of the two clamp threads; then remove the
two nuts securing the exhaust pipe clamps. Remove
the clamps and the pipe.
YM-157
17. Remove the hose clamps securing hoses to the turbo,
intake manifold, intercooler, and the air bypass
valve. Remove both hoses.
21
SNO-835A
18. Remove the steering post assembly; then remove the
two cap screws and nuts securing the vapor tank to
the right-side support.
19. Remove the cap screws securing the front spars to
the chassis; then remove the cap screws and nuts
securing the right-side support to the chassis.
Remove the steering support as an assembly.
SNO-836
20. Remove the screws securing the air silencer to the
clutch guard; then disconnect the hose from the top
of the engine and the waste gate hose. Remove the
air silencer assembly.
SNO-837
22. Remove the clamp securing the intake duct to the
PTO-side of the turbo.
23. Remove the hose clamp securing the coolant hose to
the vapor tank; then remove the hose clamp securing
the coolant hose from the bottom of the turbo.
YM-164
24. Remove the clamp securing the oil return hose to the
crankcase; then remove the oil delivery hose to the
cylinder. Account for two washers.
YM-185A
21. Remove the two cap screws and spacers securing the
intake manifold and throttle body to the engine; then
remove the three clamps securing the intake boots to
the throttle body. Remove the intake manifold.
22
YM-165A
YM-163
25. Remove the four cap screws and four nuts securing
the right-side chassis support to the chassis. Remove
the turbo and support assembly.
26. Remove the three screws and one nut securing the
clutch guard; then remove the screws and nuts securing the left-side chassis support. Rotate the support
up to gain access to the rear engine cap screw.
YM-186
27. Remove all six cap screws and nuts securing the
front engine bracket; then remove the bracket.
Remove the cap screw securing the ground wire to
the engine.
YM-160
29. Remove the clamp securing the MAG-side coolant
hose to the engine; then disconnect the oil pressure
switch and the oil pressure sensor.
30. With all hoses and wires disconnected from the
engine, move the engine forward and out the
right-side of the chassis.
31. Remove the throttle body assembly once the engine
is removed.
Installing
NOTE: Before installing the engine, be sure the
starter motor and cables are installed and secured to
the engine.
ONS-030
28. Remove the cap screw and nut securing the rear of
the engine to the chassis.
YM-162
NOTE: If the thermostat-to-heat exchanger coolant
hose was removed, make sure it is properly routed
and installed onto the heat exchanger. Tighten to 35
in.-lb (4 N-m).
YM-159
23
1. Position the front engine bracket with the front
engine mounts; then loosely secure using the existing
cap screws and new nuts.
SNO-365
2. Carefully lower the engine into the chassis aligning
the rear engine mounts with the chassis mounts; then
loosely secure using the existing cap screw and a
new nut.
ONS-030A
6. Connect the oil pressure switch and the oil pressure
sensor to the main harness.
7. Connect the coolant hose from the heat exchanger to
the water pump and secure using the existing hose
clamp. Tighten to 35 in.-lb (4 N-m).
NOTE: All wires, cables, and hoses must be
installed on the inside of the coolant hose and the
PTO-side bracket.
CAUTION
Make sure the top clamp is routed like the image below
so the clamp does not come in contact with the primary
sheave.
YM-160
3. Loosely secure the front engine mounting bracket to
the chassis using the existing cap screws and new
nuts; then loosely secure the ground cable to the
engine using the existing cap screw and a new nut.
ONS-030
4. Tighten the rear engine cap screw and nut to 65 ft-lb
(88.4 N-m).
5. Tighten the cap screws (A and B) to 25 ft-lb (34
N-m). Tighten cap screw (C) to 65 ft-lb (88.4 N-m).
Tighten cap screw (D) to 96 in.-lb (10.8 N-m).
YM-161
NOTE: Route the positive and negative battery
cables up and over the engine mounts.
8. Install the throttle body assembly into the three
intake boots and secure using the existing clamps.
Tighten to 26 in.-lb (2.9 N-m).
24
YM-168
9. Install the throttle body coolant hoses to the engine
and the water pump. Secure using the existing
clamps.
10. Install the intake manifold assembly onto the throttle
body assembly and secure using the existing clamps.
Tighten to 20 in.-lb (2.3 N-m).
11. Secure the manifold bracket to the engine using the
existing cap screws and spacers. Tighten to 7.2 ft-lb
(9.8 N-m).
YM-169
12. Position the right-side rear spar with the chain case
assembly; then install the existing cap screws
through the chain case and the spar.
15. Secure the oil return hose to the crankcase using the
existing clamp; then secure the oil delivery hose to
the cylinder using the existing banjo bolt and new
washers. Tighten to 7.2 ft-lb (9.8 N-m).
YM-165A
13. With the turbo installed onto the MAG-side mounting bracket; secure the assembly to the chassis using
the existing screws and nuts. Tighten to 20 ft-lb (27.2
N-m).
YM-163
14. Connect the lower coolant hose on the backside of
the turbo to the oil cooler. Secure using the existing
hose clamp. Tighten to 35 in.-lb (4 N-m).
YM-163
NOTE: Make sure the distance (A) between the oil
delivery hose and the turbo is 3.0 mm (0.12 in.).
SNO-821
16. Install the front two spars to the chassis and loosely
secure using the existing cap screws and nuts; then
position the steering support over all four spars and
loosely secure using the existing cap screws and
nuts. Tighten all cap screws to 25 ft-lb (34 N-m).
YM-164
25
SNO-828
17. Secure the vapor tank assembly to the right-side rear
spar using the existing cap screws and nuts; then
connect the coolant hose to the turbo fitting and oil
tank breather line to the air intake tube. Tighten the
hose clamps to 35 in.-lb (4 N-m).
SNO-879A
23. Install the air silencer onto the air duct; then install
the hoses from the air bypass valve and the hose
from the top of the engine into the air silencer.
Secure the silencer using the existing screws.
Tighten securely.
YM-185A
24. Install the intake manifold assembly onto the throttle
body and secure using the existing clamps. Tighten
to 1.7 ft-lb (2.3 N-m).
25. Using the long (PTO-side) and the short (MAG-side)
spacers, secure the intake manifold assembly to the
engine using the existing cap screws. Tighten to 7.2
ft-lb (9.8 N-m).
YM-167A
18. Install the steering post through the intake manifold
and into position.
19. Align the gap of the steering post with the machined
notch in the EPS unit spines; then install the steering
post by moving it down until the cap screw hole in
the post aligns with the horizontal groove in the EPS
unit splines.
20. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
21. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate and nuts
making sure the throttle cable is routed between the
steering bushings. Tighten to 96 in.-lb (10.8 N-m).
22. Install the intake duct to the turbo and secure using
the existing clamp and boot making sure to align the
alignment marks. Tighten the hose clamp to 35 in.-lb
(4 N-m).
26
SNO-837
26. Install the hoses to the intercooler, turbo, intake manifold, and air bypass valve using the existing clamps.
Tighten to 35 in.-lb (4 N-m).
SNO-835A
27. Install the exhaust heat shield onto the tunnel and
secure using the screws and washers. Tighten
securely.
YM-182A
30. Install the exhaust heat shield to the exhaust pipe
using the existing cap screws and washers. Tighten
securely.
YM-157
28. Position the exhaust gasket between the turbo and
the resonator; then using the long T50 ball head Torx
bit, secure the resonator to the turbo using the existing screws. Tighten the screws to 9 ft-lb (12.2 N-m)
then to 18 ft-lb (24.5 N-m) in a crisscross pattern.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of C5-A copper based
anti-seize lubricant to the threads of the screws. Hand
tools should be used when installing the six Torx
screws.
YM-154
29. Install the exhaust pipe onto the exhaust manifold
and the turbo and secure using the existing clamps.
Tighten to 6.1 ft-lb (8.3 N-m).
YM-155
31. Install the turbo heat shield and secure using the
existing cap screws and washers. Tighten securely.
YM-251
32. Install the gas tank assembly and connect the battery;
then install the console making sure to connect the
reverse alarm and heated seat switch.
33. Install the drive clutch, drive belt, and driven clutch.
34. Install the seat and secure using the screw. On models with a seat heater, connect the seat heater harness
connector.
35. Install the hood and both access panels.
27
Engine Servicing
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a
progression for servicing the Arctic Cat 9000 engine. For
consistency purposes, this sub-section shows a complete
and thorough progression; however, for efficiency it may
be preferable to disassemble only those components
needing to be addressed. Also, some components may
vary from model to model. The technician should use
discretion and sound judgment.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the technician when performing service procedures in this engine
section.
NOTE: When indicated for use, each special tool
will be identified by its specific name, as shown in the
chart below, and capitalized.
Descriptionp/n
Ball Hone
Flywheel Puller Kit
Piston Pin Puller
V Blocks
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench
Ring Compressor
0644-532
0744-083
0644-328
0644-535
0644-136
0644-378
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
Disassembling
YM-003A
NOTE: The engine cylinders are numbered #1, #2,
and #3 from the PTO to the MAG.
SNO-318A
4. Obtain top-dead-center (TDC) by rotating the crankshaft (clockwise) until the mark on the magneto rotor
is aligned with the pointer on the magneto cover and
the #3 piston is at TDC.
1. With the engine secured to a suitable engine stand,
remove the ignition coils from the cylinder head
cover; then remove the spark plugs.
2. Remove the four Allen-head screws securing the cylinder head cover to the cylinder head; then remove
the cover. Account for the gasket.
SNO-621
3. Remove both plastic plugs from the MAG cover.
SNO-279A
NOTE: TDC on the compression stroke can be
found when the camshaft lobes for cylinder #3 (MAG
side) are turned away from each other.
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is
to service the valves, proceed to Servicing Components - Valves in this sub-section.
5. Remove the two cap screws securing the starter
motor assembly to the crankcase; then remove the
starter motor.
28
YM-006
6. Remove the Allen-head screws securing the MAG
cover to the crankcase taking note the location of
the black screw.
YM-004
7. Thread the MAG Cover Removal Cap Screw (p/n
2623-100) into the timing mark hole; then carefully
pull the MAG cover from the crankcase. Account for
two dowel pins and a gasket.
YM-081
8. Remove the starter gear and shaft.
YM-007
9. Remove the cap screw securing the flywheel to the
crankshaft. Account for the washer.
10. Using Flywheel Puller, remove the flywheel from the
crankshaft. Account for the key in the crankshaft.
YM-080
! WARNING
When removing the cover be sure to keep hands away
from being pinched between the cover and the case.
YM-082
YM-083
29
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