Alfa Romeo sud 1984 User Manual

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Alfasud

by J H Haynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and Tim Parker

Models covered

Alfa Romeo Alfasud Saloon, Hatchback and Sprint Coupe models (including Veloce)

1186

cc,

1286

cc,

1350

cc and

1490

ISBN 0 85696 974 5

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE

NEWBURYPARK CALIFORNIA

(292-

12K2)

DRIVE

91320 USA

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Alfa Romeo (GB) Limited for the provision of technical information and for the use of certain illustrations. The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions, and Sykes-Pickavant Ltd provided some of the workshop tools.

About this manual

Its

aim

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.

However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work

yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car

into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

Its

arrangement

The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs

(or

sub-sections)

they are in, eg

with decimal numbers following on from the Section

5.1,

5.2, 5.3 etc.

understood.

Then

Special thanks are due to Ron Petheram of Alfacenta, Turgis Green, near Basingstoke, for much useful information required when updating the manual. Willshires of Salisbury provided a late model car for workshop photographic purposes.

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate.

There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list.

References a person in the driver's seat facing forwards.

Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise.

Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when our manuals at the earliest opportunity.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions

to the

'left'

from,

the information given.

'right'

of the

notified,

figures

are numbered in

vehicle

are in the

are incorporated into

sense

Introduction to the Alfasud

Introduced in Italy in mid-1972, and in the UK in 1974, the Alfasud was designed to provide a small car in the Alfa Romeo range. A factory specifically for the production of the model was built near Naples in Southern Italy (hence the -sud). Mechanical design of the car was by Rudolf

Hruschka,

by Giugiaro of Italdesign. The result was a distinctively Italian-looking car, driven at the front wheels by a water-cooled flat four engine. The car's handling proved to be superb, setting new standards for vehicles

in its class, and its combination of performance with reasonable price

won it many friends.

Mechanical changes to the Alfasud have been few, consisting mostly

of increasing engine capacity and (on Veloce models) the fitting of

formerly of

Porsche,

while the body was designed

twin carburettors. Body styles available in the UK have been two-door and four-door saloons and hatchbacks, and the distinctive Coupe style of the Sprint. An Estate model, available in the rest of Europe, was regrettably never imported to the

With

productio'n

the initial design may be judged by the continuation of the major mechanical components in other Alfa Romeo models. The mechanic may curse some of the more idiosyncratic features of the original design, but there is no doubt that the Alfasud provides high performance motoring on a moderate budget, and for this reason alone it will surely be around for a long time.

of the Alfasud set to finish in

UK.

1984,

the success of

DIY

Contents

Page

Acknowledgements

About this manual

Introduction to the Alfasud

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

Tools and working facilities

Routine maintenance

Safety first!

General data

Jacking and towing

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Chapter 1 Engine

Chapter 2 Cooling and heating systems

Chapter 3

Carburation;

fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 Ignition system

Chapter 5 Clutch

Chapter 6 Gearbox and final drive

Chapter 7 Driveshafts, hubs, wheels and tyres

Chapter 8 Braking system

Chapter 9 Electrical system

Chapter

Suspension and steering

Chapter

1 1

Bodywork and

Chapter

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Fault diagnosis

General repair procedures

Conversion factors

Index

fittings

110

120

130

164

167

168

169

1973

4-door

Alfasud Saloon, the project car used for this manual

1975 group of Alfasud

TIs.

The external differences are obvious

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Alfa Romeo garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows:

Officially appointed Alfa Romeo garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and are otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty - non - Alfa Romeo

components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the

correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the

for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on

a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you.

Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up

paint,

filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust system, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes and pads components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable

etc).

Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned

'old'

part along

amount of money.

Gaskets - special note

With gasket sets - for both engine and gearbox - do not be alarmed if there seem to be many items included in the set you buy, which do not fit your vehicle. To save a lot of variety of kits they include in one enough to cover a variety of types over a period of time so you are certain to have some left over. However, it is a good idea to check the set before leaving the parts store. Some of the ones you may need could

omitted.

applies to some of the smaller ones.

Vehicle identification numbers

When buying spare parts it is necessary to properly identify your car. First give the car model and date (ie; Alfasud

chassis

number

intermediate inner wing - this gives the car model and type approval. The engine

number is stamped into the engine block casting on the right bank of cylinders at the number 3 cylinder. (The gearbox is engine number). The paint finish plate is fixed to the underside of the

boot lid. It is a foil plate. Commonsense will tell you which number

you want and when. However, it is a good idea to record all these

numbers from your car and have them ready whenever you are buying new parts.

Note the location illustration.

bulkhead.

Oil

seals

particularly

stamped

on a

The Identification plate is fixed to the off-side

are not all

plate affixed

included

Tl,

June 1975). The

to the

front

identified

- and

side

this

of the

with the

2 3 1

Location of engine and chassis numbers

1 Chassis number

2 Car model and type

approval plate 3 Engine number 4 Finish paint plate

Tools and

working

facilities

Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner

who

does

not

possess

any,

their

able

expense,

However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will

last

To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult

tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a

'Maintenance

and

overhaul'

major good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the amount of use these tools will be put to.

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to

book entitled publishers of this manual.

offsetting some of the savings made by

for

many

years

and

prove

and minor

tool kit over a considerable period of time without any

cash

outlays.

'Special'

'How

repair'

The

experienced do-it-yourselfer

category when he feels the expense is justified by the

learn

to Choose and Use Car Tools' available from the

more about tools and their use there is a

purchase

extremely

'Maintenance

tool kit can be built-up into a

will

prove a consider-

doing-it-yourself.

worthwhile

and minor

will

have a tool

investment.

repair'

tool

'Repair

kit

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination spanners - 10,

Adjustable

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark

plug

Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in. long x % in. Screwdriver - 4 in. long x % in. dia. (crosshead)

Combination pliers - 6 inch

Hacksaw,

Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Oil can

Fine emery cloth Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

maintenance,

spanner - 9 inch

gap adjustment tool

junior

sheet)

servicing and minor repair

open-ended

11,

13, 14,

dia.

(plain)

the other); although

17,30mm

Repair and overhaul tool kit

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major

repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Basic

list. Include in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the

/2 square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque

wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then

inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative.

The tools in this list will occasionally need to supplemented by

tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range 6 to 27 mm Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Mole wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer

Soft-faced

ScrewdriverScrewdriverScrewdriverScrewdriverPliers

Pliers - needle nosed

Pliers - circlip

Cold

Scriber

blade) Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end of a

piece of copper pipe)

Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw

Valve grinding tool Steel

Allen keys Selection of files

Wire brush (large)

Axle stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

piece,

inch (for use with sockets)

hammer, plastic or rubber

6 in.

long x 5/16

2in.

longx

V/ain.

longx % in. dia. (crosshead)

3in.

- electricians side cutters

chisel-

(this can be made by grinding the end of a broken hacksaw

rule/straight

longx

(internal

% inch

edge

in. dia. (plain)

5/16in.

square (plain)

1/8in.

dia. (electricians)

and external)

versatile-

Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are

undertaken tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorists club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist.

The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional reference to these manufacturers special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers special tool is given. However, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the

frequently,

will

not be

economic

to buy

many

sometimes,

these

Tools and working facilities

relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Ball joint separator Universal hub/bearing puller

Impact

screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge Stroboscopic

timing

light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical

multi-meter

Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools

For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will

have a very comprehensive

range

compared

with

the

average

garage

or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around, at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care

and

maintenance

tools

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and serviceable dirt,

grease

and

metal particles using a clean,

condition,

After use, always wipe off any

dry

cloth,

before

putting

the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been

used. A simple

tool

rack

on the

garage

workshop

wall,

for

items

such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,

meters,

etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become

rusty.

Take a little

care when

the

tools

are

used. Hammer heads

inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will

soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If

anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form

of suitable working area becomes essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove the engine or similar of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in. (100

mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon become necessary.

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general

usage,

is an

electric

drill

with a chuck capacity

(8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually

essential

for

fitting

accessories

such

wing

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

item,

mirrors

without the benefit

of at

least 5/16

and

reversing

lights.

Spanner jaw gap comparison

in.

Jaw gap

0.250

0.276

0.313

0.315

0.344

0.354

0.375

0.394

0.433

0.438

0.445

0.472

0.500

0.512

0.525

0.551

0.563

0.591

0.600

0.625

0.630

0.669

0.686

0.709

0.710

0.748

0.750

0.813

0.820

r\ o c

U.oDD

r\ o ~7

0.875

0.920

\J • C7

vj.

1.010

1.024

1.100

1.125

1.181

1.200

1.250

1.260

1.300

1.313

1.390

1.417

1.438

1.480

1.500

1.575

1.614

1.625

1.670

1.688

1.811

1.813

1.860

1.875

1.969

2.000

2.050

2.165

2.362

CHR

945

^M-U

.000

Ofi3

,\J\J\J

O O

(in)

Spanner size

7 mm

*in

8 mm

32 in AF; £ in Whitworth

9 mm f in AF

-£

& in Whitworth; f in BSF

ID ' 8

j§

c c

O O

O A

^.H-

26 mm

1— in

| in Whitworth;

30 mm

32 mm

-fj§

36 mm

40 mm; jf in Whitworth

41 mm

46 mm

50 mm 2 in AF

55 mm 60 mm

table

10 mm

1 1

in AF

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

12 mm

13 mm

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

14 mm

in AF

1 5 mm

AF 16 mm 1 7 mm

18 mm

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

8 ' 10

19 mm

in AF

in Whitworth; ± in BSF

«-

in AF

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

|n AC

ryi

111

in Whitworth; f in BSF

AF'

in Whitworth; f in BSF

in Whitworth;

1£

in Whitworth;

1£ 1I

1 in Whitworth;

1jj 1Ji

1£

97 mm

111

r\\ r £. / llllil

j£

in BSF

in AF

in BSF

in AF

in BSF

in AF

in Whitworth; 1 in BSF

in AF

1£

in BSF

in AF in AF

in Whitworth;

1£

in BSF

in AF

in Whitworth;

in BSF

Routine maintenance

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the

items either delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals.

Starting procedure: Starting from cold the Alfasud needs careful warming up. Once the engine is running carefully coax it. Do not accelerate the engine until it is warm, since when the engine is cold the oil cannot reach all points requiring lubrication. A red light exhibited on the facia will not go out until the oil becomes sufficiently warm.

Every 250 miles (400

Check engine oil level and top up if necessary Check coolant level and top up if necessary Check brake frequent topping up is required

Check battery electrolyte level (if possible) and top up if necessary Check windscreen washer Check tyre pressures (including spare) and tread condition Check operation of lights, horn, wipers etc

Every 6000 miles

Change engine oil and renew filter

Inspect air filter element; clean or renew as necessary

Inspect spark plugs; clean or renew as necessary Inspect brake pads; renew as necessary Inspect braking system flexible hoses and steel pipes; renew as necessary

Every

In addition to, or instead

Check engine valve clearances and adjust if necessary Check tension and condition of alternator as necessary Renew air filter element

longer exist

km),

fluid

level

(10

000 miles (20 000 km) or

weekly, or before a long journey

and top up if

fluid

000 km) or six months, whichever comes first

of,

the work previously specified

will

last

necessary. Check

level

and top up if

annually,

for

ever.

This

is a

for

necessary

whichever comes first

drivebelt;

adjust or renew

serious

leaks

Renew spark plugs Gap or renew contact breaker points (when applicable) Check ignition timing Clean crankcase ventilation hoses and flame trap Check idle speed and adjust if necessary Check gearbox oil level and top up if necessary Check

driveshaft

Check handbrake operation and adjust as necessary Lubricate hinges, locks, etc Inspect all systems for leaks, damage, etc

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or annually, whichever comes

Renew brake hydraulic fluid

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or two years, whichever comes first

In addition

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or three years, whichever comes first

In addition

Additionally the following items should be attended to as time can be spared:

to,

Renew in-line fuel filters (when fitted) Renew gearbox oil

to,

Renew the alternator drivebelt Renew the camshaft drivebelts

rubber boots for security and soundness

or instead of, the work previously specified

or instead

of,

the work previously specified

first

Cleaning

Examination applies to the body of the car, inside and out, in order that deterioration due to rust or unknown damage may be detected. Certain parts of the body frame, if rusted badly, can result in the vehicle being declared unsafe

and it

components requires

will

not

pass

the

annual test

that

they

for

roadworthiness.

cleaned.

The

same

Exhaust system

An exhaust system must be leakproof, and the noise level below a certain minimum. Excessive leaks may cause carbon monoxide fumes to enter the passenger compartment. Excessive noise constitutes a public nuisance. Both these faults may cause the vehicle to be kept off the road. Repair or replace defective sections when symptoms are apparent.

The air filter components. Inset

IIVV ' winter setting, EST - summer setting

Oil

filter

removal - the arrow points in the Alternator/water pump drive belt

removal direction

Adjusting bolt 2 Pivot bolt

Lubrication schedule

1 Dipstick 2 Sump drain plug 3 Oil filter 4 Gearbox filler plug 5

Gearbox

6 Oil filler

adjustment

drain plug

Safety

first!

Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can

failure to observe certain elementary precautions.

There will always be new ways of having

following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all

dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

accidents,

and the

Essential DOs and DON'Ts

DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

way.

DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant.

DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning

you.

DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON'T inhale brake lining dust - it is injurious to health.

DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up

straight away, before someone slips on it.

DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury.

DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle.

DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander,

bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle.

DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs

- it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt

easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left

slippery.

DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way

of moving mechanical parts.

DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle -

especially the electrical system.

DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating

adequate for the job.

DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working

alone on the vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is

correctly assembled and tightened afterwards.

DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and

others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice.

IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

'Park'

support,

where applicable) and the parking

such as axle stands,

Fire

Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an

electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol

Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.

It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

vapour,

which in a confined space is highly explosive.

Fumes

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious-

ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as

trichloroethylene.

should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours.

Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such

as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids

The battery

Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas,

which is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before

working on the fuel or electrical systems.

If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the

battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.

Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The

acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be

allowed to contact the eyes or skin.

If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the

acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles.

When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good

earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 1 8 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch.

Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity

When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, which works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour.

Ignition HT voltage

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

General data

Refill capacities

Fuel tank Cooling system (inc. heater) Engine oil (sump and filter) Gearbox/differential

Metric 50

litres

7.3 litres

4 litres

3.4 litres

Imperial

gallons

1.6 gallons

7 pints

5.9 pints

* Figure given is when full or quantity for regular changing. The total amount of oil in the circuit is 4.6 litres. The

2.8 litres.

Overall dimensions and weights (early models)

Length (overall)

Width

(overall)

Height (overall)

Wheel

base Front track Rear track Body overhang from front axle centre Body overhang Turning circle Kerb weight (full fuel tank)

from

rear axle centre

Metric

3890

1590mm

1370

2455 mm

1384mm

1351

730mm

705 mm

9400

830kg

Jacking and towing

Jacking points

The scissor-jack supplied with the vehicle is stored in a specially constructed jig in the boot. The with the tool roll. The jack must only be used at the proper positions below the bodyshell. The jack has a special lug which sits under an opening/locating ring just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels

wheelbrace-cum-jack

handle is kept

Towing points

When being towed secure the rope or cable through the eye of the

special bracket attached to the front underside centre of the car. Do not tow from any other point or you may find your car changing shape! When towing another vehicle secure the rope or cable to the rigid back axle, on the off side. Make certain that the tow rope does not foul the hydraulic brake pipes and the linkage for the brake pressure limiter valve. This is not difficult to do properly but careful attachment is necessary.

Do not tow too

any vehicle - the Alfasud can lose traction because of this.

heavy a vehicle.

'danger

Imperial

151.7

62 in.

53.4

in.

95.7

in.

53.9

in.

52.6

in.

28.4

27.4

in.

366.6 in.

1830

Towing

in.

tends

level'

quantity is

lift

the

front

Location of jacking point at the rear

Only permissible towing hook

Recommended lubricants

Component or system

1 Engine

2 Transmission 3 Cooling system

4 Brake and clutch hydraulic

systems

Lubricant type or specification

ft/lultigrade engine oil SAE 10W/50 Hypoid gear oil EP 80W/90 Antifreeze to Hydraulic fluid to DOT SAE

J1703e

BS3151

or FMV55

116

3152

DOT 3

+ 30 hidden pages

Alfa Romeo sud 1984 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual