Alfa Romeo sud 1984 User Manual

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Alfasud

by J H Haynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and Tim Parker

Models covered

Alfa Romeo Alfasud Saloon, Hatchback and Sprint Coupe models (including Veloce)

1186

cc,

1286

cc,

1350

cc and

1490

ISBN 0 85696 974 5

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE

NEWBURYPARK CALIFORNIA

(292-

12K2)

DRIVE

91320 USA

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Alfa Romeo (GB) Limited for the provision of technical information and for the use of certain illustrations. The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions, and Sykes-Pickavant Ltd provided some of the workshop tools.

About this manual

Its

aim

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.

However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work

yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car

into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

Its

arrangement

The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs

(or

sub-sections)

they are in, eg

with decimal numbers following on from the Section

5.1,

5.2, 5.3 etc.

understood.

Then

Special thanks are due to Ron Petheram of Alfacenta, Turgis Green, near Basingstoke, for much useful information required when updating the manual. Willshires of Salisbury provided a late model car for workshop photographic purposes.

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate.

There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list.

References a person in the driver's seat facing forwards.

Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise.

Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when our manuals at the earliest opportunity.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions

to the

'left'

from,

the information given.

'right'

of the

notified,

figures

are numbered in

vehicle

are in the

are incorporated into

sense

Introduction to the Alfasud

Introduced in Italy in mid-1972, and in the UK in 1974, the Alfasud was designed to provide a small car in the Alfa Romeo range. A factory specifically for the production of the model was built near Naples in Southern Italy (hence the -sud). Mechanical design of the car was by Rudolf

Hruschka,

by Giugiaro of Italdesign. The result was a distinctively Italian-looking car, driven at the front wheels by a water-cooled flat four engine. The car's handling proved to be superb, setting new standards for vehicles

in its class, and its combination of performance with reasonable price

won it many friends.

Mechanical changes to the Alfasud have been few, consisting mostly

of increasing engine capacity and (on Veloce models) the fitting of

formerly of

Porsche,

while the body was designed

twin carburettors. Body styles available in the UK have been two-door and four-door saloons and hatchbacks, and the distinctive Coupe style of the Sprint. An Estate model, available in the rest of Europe, was regrettably never imported to the

With

productio'n

the initial design may be judged by the continuation of the major mechanical components in other Alfa Romeo models. The mechanic may curse some of the more idiosyncratic features of the original design, but there is no doubt that the Alfasud provides high performance motoring on a moderate budget, and for this reason alone it will surely be around for a long time.

of the Alfasud set to finish in

UK.

1984,

the success of

DIY

Contents

Page

Acknowledgements

About this manual

Introduction to the Alfasud

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

Tools and working facilities

Routine maintenance

Safety first!

General data

Jacking and towing

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Chapter 1 Engine

Chapter 2 Cooling and heating systems

Chapter 3

Carburation;

fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 Ignition system

Chapter 5 Clutch

Chapter 6 Gearbox and final drive

Chapter 7 Driveshafts, hubs, wheels and tyres

Chapter 8 Braking system

Chapter 9 Electrical system

Chapter

Suspension and steering

Chapter

1 1

Bodywork and

Chapter

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Fault diagnosis

General repair procedures

Conversion factors

Index

fittings

110

120

130

164

167

168

169

1973

4-door

Alfasud Saloon, the project car used for this manual

1975 group of Alfasud

TIs.

The external differences are obvious

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Alfa Romeo garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows:

Officially appointed Alfa Romeo garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and are otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty - non - Alfa Romeo

components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the

correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the

for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on

a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you.

Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up

paint,

filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust system, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes and pads components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable

etc).

Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned

'old'

part along

amount of money.

Gaskets - special note

With gasket sets - for both engine and gearbox - do not be alarmed if there seem to be many items included in the set you buy, which do not fit your vehicle. To save a lot of variety of kits they include in one enough to cover a variety of types over a period of time so you are certain to have some left over. However, it is a good idea to check the set before leaving the parts store. Some of the ones you may need could

omitted.

applies to some of the smaller ones.

Vehicle identification numbers

When buying spare parts it is necessary to properly identify your car. First give the car model and date (ie; Alfasud

chassis

number

intermediate inner wing - this gives the car model and type approval. The engine

number is stamped into the engine block casting on the right bank of cylinders at the number 3 cylinder. (The gearbox is engine number). The paint finish plate is fixed to the underside of the

boot lid. It is a foil plate. Commonsense will tell you which number

you want and when. However, it is a good idea to record all these

numbers from your car and have them ready whenever you are buying new parts.

Note the location illustration.

bulkhead.

Oil

seals

particularly

stamped

on a

The Identification plate is fixed to the off-side

are not all

plate affixed

included

Tl,

June 1975). The

to the

front

identified

- and

side

this

of the

with the

2 3 1

Location of engine and chassis numbers

1 Chassis number

2 Car model and type

approval plate 3 Engine number 4 Finish paint plate

Tools and

working

facilities

Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner

who

does

not

possess

any,

their

able

expense,

However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will

last

To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult

tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a

'Maintenance

and

overhaul'

major good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the amount of use these tools will be put to.

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to

book entitled publishers of this manual.

offsetting some of the savings made by

for

many

years

and

prove

and minor

tool kit over a considerable period of time without any

cash

outlays.

'Special'

'How

repair'

The

experienced do-it-yourselfer

category when he feels the expense is justified by the

learn

to Choose and Use Car Tools' available from the

more about tools and their use there is a

purchase

extremely

'Maintenance

tool kit can be built-up into a

will

prove a consider-

doing-it-yourself.

worthwhile

and minor

will

have a tool

investment.

repair'

tool

'Repair

kit

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination spanners - 10,

Adjustable

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark

plug

Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in. long x % in. Screwdriver - 4 in. long x % in. dia. (crosshead)

Combination pliers - 6 inch

Hacksaw,

Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Oil can

Fine emery cloth Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

maintenance,

spanner - 9 inch

gap adjustment tool

junior

sheet)

servicing and minor repair

open-ended

11,

13, 14,

dia.

(plain)

the other); although

17,30mm

Repair and overhaul tool kit

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major

repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Basic

list. Include in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the

/2 square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque

wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then

inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative.

The tools in this list will occasionally need to supplemented by

tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range 6 to 27 mm Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Mole wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer

Soft-faced

ScrewdriverScrewdriverScrewdriverScrewdriverPliers

Pliers - needle nosed

Pliers - circlip

Cold

Scriber

blade) Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end of a

piece of copper pipe)

Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw

Valve grinding tool Steel

Allen keys Selection of files

Wire brush (large)

Axle stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

piece,

inch (for use with sockets)

hammer, plastic or rubber

6 in.

long x 5/16

2in.

longx

V/ain.

longx % in. dia. (crosshead)

3in.

- electricians side cutters

chisel-

(this can be made by grinding the end of a broken hacksaw

rule/straight

longx

(internal

% inch

edge

in. dia. (plain)

5/16in.

square (plain)

1/8in.

dia. (electricians)

and external)

versatile-

Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are

undertaken tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorists club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist.

The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional reference to these manufacturers special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers special tool is given. However, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the

frequently,

will

not be

economic

to buy

many

sometimes,

these

Tools and working facilities

relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Ball joint separator Universal hub/bearing puller

Impact

screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge Stroboscopic

timing

light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical

multi-meter

Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools

For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will

have a very comprehensive

range

compared

with

the

average

garage

or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around, at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care

and

maintenance

tools

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and serviceable dirt,

grease

and

metal particles using a clean,

condition,

After use, always wipe off any

dry

cloth,

before

putting

the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been

used. A simple

tool

rack

on the

garage

workshop

wall,

for

items

such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,

meters,

etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become

rusty.

Take a little

care when

the

tools

are

used. Hammer heads

inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will

soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If

anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form

of suitable working area becomes essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove the engine or similar of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in. (100

mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon become necessary.

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general

usage,

is an

electric

drill

with a chuck capacity

(8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually

essential

for

fitting

accessories

such

wing

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

item,

mirrors

without the benefit

of at

least 5/16

and

reversing

lights.

Spanner jaw gap comparison

in.

Jaw gap

0.250

0.276

0.313

0.315

0.344

0.354

0.375

0.394

0.433

0.438

0.445

0.472

0.500

0.512

0.525

0.551

0.563

0.591

0.600

0.625

0.630

0.669

0.686

0.709

0.710

0.748

0.750

0.813

0.820

r\ o c

U.oDD

r\ o ~7

0.875

0.920

\J • C7

vj.

1.010

1.024

1.100

1.125

1.181

1.200

1.250

1.260

1.300

1.313

1.390

1.417

1.438

1.480

1.500

1.575

1.614

1.625

1.670

1.688

1.811

1.813

1.860

1.875

1.969

2.000

2.050

2.165

2.362

CHR

945

^M-U

.000

Ofi3

,\J\J\J

O O

(in)

Spanner size

7 mm

*in

8 mm

32 in AF; £ in Whitworth

9 mm f in AF

-£

& in Whitworth; f in BSF

ID ' 8

j§

c c

O O

O A

^.H-

26 mm

1— in

| in Whitworth;

30 mm

32 mm

-fj§

36 mm

40 mm; jf in Whitworth

41 mm

46 mm

50 mm 2 in AF

55 mm 60 mm

table

10 mm

1 1

in AF

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

12 mm

13 mm

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

14 mm

in AF

1 5 mm

AF 16 mm 1 7 mm

18 mm

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

8 ' 10

19 mm

in AF

in Whitworth; ± in BSF

«-

in AF

in Whitworth; £ in BSF

|n AC

ryi

111

in Whitworth; f in BSF

AF'

in Whitworth; f in BSF

in Whitworth;

1£

in Whitworth;

1£ 1I

1 in Whitworth;

1jj 1Ji

1£

97 mm

111

r\\ r £. / llllil

j£

in BSF

in AF

in BSF

in AF

in BSF

in AF

in Whitworth; 1 in BSF

in AF

1£

in BSF

in AF in AF

in Whitworth;

1£

in BSF

in AF

in Whitworth;

in BSF

Routine maintenance

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the

items either delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals.

Starting procedure: Starting from cold the Alfasud needs careful warming up. Once the engine is running carefully coax it. Do not accelerate the engine until it is warm, since when the engine is cold the oil cannot reach all points requiring lubrication. A red light exhibited on the facia will not go out until the oil becomes sufficiently warm.

Every 250 miles (400

Check engine oil level and top up if necessary Check coolant level and top up if necessary Check brake frequent topping up is required

Check battery electrolyte level (if possible) and top up if necessary Check windscreen washer Check tyre pressures (including spare) and tread condition Check operation of lights, horn, wipers etc

Every 6000 miles

Change engine oil and renew filter

Inspect air filter element; clean or renew as necessary

Inspect spark plugs; clean or renew as necessary Inspect brake pads; renew as necessary Inspect braking system flexible hoses and steel pipes; renew as necessary

Every

In addition to, or instead

Check engine valve clearances and adjust if necessary Check tension and condition of alternator as necessary Renew air filter element

longer exist

km),

fluid

level

(10

000 miles (20 000 km) or

weekly, or before a long journey

and top up if

fluid

000 km) or six months, whichever comes first

of,

the work previously specified

will

last

necessary. Check

level

and top up if

annually,

for

ever.

This

is a

for

necessary

whichever comes first

drivebelt;

adjust or renew

serious

leaks

Renew spark plugs Gap or renew contact breaker points (when applicable) Check ignition timing Clean crankcase ventilation hoses and flame trap Check idle speed and adjust if necessary Check gearbox oil level and top up if necessary Check

driveshaft

Check handbrake operation and adjust as necessary Lubricate hinges, locks, etc Inspect all systems for leaks, damage, etc

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or annually, whichever comes

Renew brake hydraulic fluid

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or two years, whichever comes first

In addition

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or three years, whichever comes first

In addition

Additionally the following items should be attended to as time can be spared:

to,

Renew in-line fuel filters (when fitted) Renew gearbox oil

to,

Renew the alternator drivebelt Renew the camshaft drivebelts

rubber boots for security and soundness

or instead of, the work previously specified

or instead

of,

the work previously specified

first

Cleaning

Examination applies to the body of the car, inside and out, in order that deterioration due to rust or unknown damage may be detected. Certain parts of the body frame, if rusted badly, can result in the vehicle being declared unsafe

and it

components requires

will

not

pass

the

annual test

that

they

for

roadworthiness.

cleaned.

The

same

Exhaust system

An exhaust system must be leakproof, and the noise level below a certain minimum. Excessive leaks may cause carbon monoxide fumes to enter the passenger compartment. Excessive noise constitutes a public nuisance. Both these faults may cause the vehicle to be kept off the road. Repair or replace defective sections when symptoms are apparent.

The air filter components. Inset

IIVV ' winter setting, EST - summer setting

Oil

filter

removal - the arrow points in the Alternator/water pump drive belt

removal direction

Adjusting bolt 2 Pivot bolt

Lubrication schedule

1 Dipstick 2 Sump drain plug 3 Oil filter 4 Gearbox filler plug 5

Gearbox

6 Oil filler

adjustment

drain plug

Safety

first!

Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can

failure to observe certain elementary precautions.

There will always be new ways of having

following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all

dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

accidents,

and the

Essential DOs and DON'Ts

DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

way.

DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant.

DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning

you.

DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON'T inhale brake lining dust - it is injurious to health.

DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up

straight away, before someone slips on it.

DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury.

DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle.

DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander,

bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle.

DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs

- it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt

easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left

slippery.

DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way

of moving mechanical parts.

DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle -

especially the electrical system.

DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating

adequate for the job.

DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working

alone on the vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is

correctly assembled and tightened afterwards.

DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and

others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice.

IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

'Park'

support,

where applicable) and the parking

such as axle stands,

Fire

Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an

electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol

Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.

It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

vapour,

which in a confined space is highly explosive.

Fumes

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious-

ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as

trichloroethylene.

should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours.

Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such

as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids

The battery

Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas,

which is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before

working on the fuel or electrical systems.

If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the

battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.

Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The

acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be

allowed to contact the eyes or skin.

If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the

acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles.

When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good

earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 1 8 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch.

Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity

When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, which works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour.

Ignition HT voltage

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

General data

Refill capacities

Fuel tank Cooling system (inc. heater) Engine oil (sump and filter) Gearbox/differential

Metric 50

litres

7.3 litres

4 litres

3.4 litres

Imperial

gallons

1.6 gallons

7 pints

5.9 pints

* Figure given is when full or quantity for regular changing. The total amount of oil in the circuit is 4.6 litres. The

2.8 litres.

Overall dimensions and weights (early models)

Length (overall)

Width

(overall)

Height (overall)

Wheel

base Front track Rear track Body overhang from front axle centre Body overhang Turning circle Kerb weight (full fuel tank)

from

rear axle centre

Metric

3890

1590mm

1370

2455 mm

1384mm

1351

730mm

705 mm

9400

830kg

Jacking and towing

Jacking points

The scissor-jack supplied with the vehicle is stored in a specially constructed jig in the boot. The with the tool roll. The jack must only be used at the proper positions below the bodyshell. The jack has a special lug which sits under an opening/locating ring just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels

wheelbrace-cum-jack

handle is kept

Towing points

When being towed secure the rope or cable through the eye of the

special bracket attached to the front underside centre of the car. Do not tow from any other point or you may find your car changing shape! When towing another vehicle secure the rope or cable to the rigid back axle, on the off side. Make certain that the tow rope does not foul the hydraulic brake pipes and the linkage for the brake pressure limiter valve. This is not difficult to do properly but careful attachment is necessary.

Do not tow too

any vehicle - the Alfasud can lose traction because of this.

heavy a vehicle.

'danger

Imperial

151.7

62 in.

53.4

in.

95.7

in.

53.9

in.

52.6

in.

28.4

27.4

in.

366.6 in.

1830

Towing

in.

tends

level'

quantity is

lift

the

front

Location of jacking point at the rear

Only permissible towing hook

Recommended lubricants

Component or system

1 Engine

2 Transmission 3 Cooling system

4 Brake and clutch hydraulic

systems

Lubricant type or specification

ft/lultigrade engine oil SAE 10W/50 Hypoid gear oil EP 80W/90 Antifreeze to Hydraulic fluid to DOT SAE

J1703e

BS3151

or FMV55

116

3152

DOT 3

Chapter 1 Engine

For

modifications,

Contents

and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of Manual

Descriptions

Engine removal 5

Engine removal from gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... 6

General description ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 1

Major operations which entail engine removal 3 Major operations which may be carried out with the engine in the car 2

Method of engine removal ... ... ... ... ... ... 4

Dismantling

Alternator - removal ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 10

Big-end bearings and piston - removal 21

Camshaft drive belts - removal ... ... ... ... ... ... 14

Carburettor - removal ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

Crankcase front cover - removal 20 Crankcase rear cover -

Crankshaft

Cylinder heads and

Distributor-removal

Engine dismantling - general ... ... ... ... ... ... 7

Flywheel - removal 22

Fuel pump - removal ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 13

Inlet manifold and thermostat housing - removal ... ... ... 12

Main bearings and crankshaft - removal ... ... ... ... 24

Oil

Oil pump - removal ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 19

Sump - removal ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 18

Water pump and pulley - removal 16

pulley

filter-removal

removal...

and

drives-removal

camshafts-removal

... ... ... ... ... 23

... ... ... ... 15

Inspection and renovation

Camshafts, tappets, camshaft pulleys and belts Crankcase/cylinder Crankshaft, big-end and main bearings

block

32 26 28

Cylinder compression test Cylinder heads and valves, plus decarbonisation

Flywheel (and starter ring gear) Liners, pistons, piston rings and connecting rods

Oil pump ...

Reassembly

Alternator and drivebelt - replacement and tension ... Camshaft belts and valve timing Carburettor - replacement Crankcase preparation ... Crankshaft and main bearings - reassembly ... Cylinder heads and camshafts - reassembly and replacement

Distributor - replacement Engine -

reassembly

Flywheel Front crankcase cover - replacement ... Fuel pump - replacement

Inlet

Oil pump Pistons and connecting rods - reassembly and replacement Rear crankcase Sump - replacement Tappet clearance adjustment ... Water pump and pulley - replacement Ancillary sender units, oil filter and other parts

replacement...

manifold - replacement ...

replacement...

general

cover-replacement

Engine replacement in the car

Engine attachment to gearbox ... Engine replacement into car Fault diagnosis - engine

Starting engine and running in ...

25 31 29 27 30

42 51 34 35 41 46 33

38 39 47

52 53 55 54

Specifications

Engine - general

Type

Code number

Bore

Stroke

Capacity ... Compression ratio Octane rating Horsepower:

SAE

DIN

Torque:

SAE

DIN

Idling speed Firing order

Oil capacity (both)

Horizontally opposed, flat camshaft on each cylinder bank

Alfasud

301.00

8.8:

4-cylinder,

80mm (3.15 in) 59mm (2.32 in)

1186cc(72.4cu in)

73 at 6000 63 at 6000 rpm

9.8 kgm at 3500 rpm

8.5 kgm at 3500 rpm

rpm

800 to

1000

1-3-2-4

4 litres (7 Imp. pints)

(sump and filter)

water cooled, single overhead

Alfasud

301.04

9.0:1

68 at 6000 rpm

rpm

Chapter

1/Engine

Essential differences between the Alfasud and Alfasud

1 Camshafts and valve timing 2 Cylinder heads 3 Valves 4 Carburettor

Lubrication system

Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Wet

Filter Full flow - replaceable cartridge

Capacity:

With filter change ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 4 litres (7 Imp. pints)

Without filter change 3.6 litres (6.3 Imp. pints)

Oil

required

Oil pump ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Twin gear

Oil pump gear/body end-clearance Nil Oil

pump

Oil pressure relief valve Crankshaft and main bearings

No. of bearings, and type Journal diameters 59.944 - 59.975 mm Undersize main bearing shells 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, 1 mm

Bearing clearance Crankshaft endfloat

Journals, maximum ovality ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.02 mm

Crankcase

Main bearing bore diameter 63.663 - 63.673 mm

Thickness of seating for thrust washers (side-to-side) 23.68 - 23.73 mm

Maximum allowable misalignment of bearing ... ... ... ... 0.02 mm

Camshafts and

Camshafts drive ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2 gear driven toothed belts, external

Bearings ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Direct in carrier

Journal diameters:

Bearing housing diameter:

Endfloat Width of camshaft register housing 5.45 - 5.5 mm Thickness of rear cover gasket

Width of camshaft register ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 5.5 - 5.55 mm

Diameter of tappet bucket housing 36 - 36.025 mm

Diameter of tappet 35.973 - 35.989 mm

Maximum total misalignment of camshaft bearings ... ... ... ... 0.02 mm

Truth of machined faces 0.03 mm

Connecting rods and bearings

Type

Big-end bearings ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Thin wall shell

Small-end bush ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Steel bush, lead bronze coated

Big-end journal diameter 49.987 - 50 mm

Big-end diameter 53.696 - 53.708 mm

Undersize big-end bearing shells 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, 1 mm

Clearance of big-end bearing to journal 0.026 - 0.063 mm

Gudgeon (wrist) pin/bush interference ... 0.024 - 0.039 mm

Crankpin, maximum ovality ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.02 mm

Cylinders

Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Machine into cylinder block with liners

Oversize (liner diameter) ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

Maximum divergence from measurement ... ... ... ... ...

Cylinder heads

Type Aluminium alloy, one per pair of cylinders, cross flow. Alfasud and

Pistons and rings

Type ... Light alloy. Alfasud and Alfasud

Cylinder clearance limit 0.03 - 0.05 mm Height of piston ring grooves:

fill

from lower

gear/backlash...

0.028 - 0.063 mm

limits

bearings

Front 34.94 - 34.956 mm Centre 46.445 - 46.456 mm Rear 46.94 - 46.956 mm

Front

35.015-35.040

Centre 46.515 - 46.54 mm Rear 47.015 - 47.040 mm

0.1-0.3

Forged steel

Top compression 1.525 -

Lower compression 1.775 - 1.795 mm

Oil control ...

4.015

upper marks

... ... ... ... " ... ... ... Nil

set

at 4.5 kg/sq cm

-3,

0.05 - 0.24 mm

0.21-0.33

on the

engines:

dipstick

... ... 1.2

0.2,0.4,0.6mm

0.010mm

Alfasud Tl use different heads

sump,

pressure and splash

thin wall shell

1.545

- 4.035 mm

litres

(2.1 Imp. pints)

use the same pistons

Chapter

Piston ring thickness:

Top compression ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

(

Lower compression ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 1.728 -

Oil control 3.978 - 3.990 mm Piston oversizes

Gudgeon wrist pin ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Steel tube

Clearance of gudgeon pin to piston 0.007 0.016mm

Top compression ring gap ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.30 - 0.45 mm

Lower compression ring gap ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

Oil control ring gap ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.25 - 0.40 mm

Gudgeon pin diameter 20.006 Tappet cam followers

Type

Diameter of tappet bucket 35.973 - 35.989 mm

Valves,

Inlet:

Valve head diameter 38 - 38.2 mm Stem diameter Seat width Seat angle 90° - 90° Guide bore diameter 8.013 - 8.031 mm

Exhaust:

Valve head diameter 33 - 33.2 mm Stem diameter Seat width Seat angle 90° - 90°

Guide bore diameter 8.030 - 8.048 mm

Maximum rock in guide (both) ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.9 mm

Valve springs:

Height of

External spring: spring length and load with valve closed ... ... 33.75 mm/22.95 - 24.35 Kg

Internal spring: spring length and load with valve closed Valve (tappet) clearance (oil removed from camshaft chest) (cold)

Inlet

Exhaust Valve timing Alfasud Alfasud

Inlet

Exhaust opens bbdc 54° 45° Exhaust closes atdc 6° 7°

0.2,0.4,0.6mm

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Bucket type, encasing valve

valve seats

0.35-0.40

opens closes

and

timing

7.895-8

1.07-1.37

7.985-8

1.26-1.56

free

spring ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 46 mm

31.75

0.45-0.50

btdc 6° 12° abdc 54° 48°

1/Engine

1.478 - 1.490

1.740

0.30 - 0.45 mm

mm/11.35

mm mm

21.00

30'(included

mm mm (0.018/0.020 in)

angle of seat faces)

- 12.15 Kg

(0.014/0.016

spring,

bearing directly onto camshafts

in)

and

Torque wrench settings

Main

bearing cap Side brace bolts* Connecting rod bolts

Flywheel bolts* 9.6-10.7

Crankshaft nut

Drive pulley to camshaft* 6.4-7.1 46.2-51.3 Cylinder head bolts* Camshaft housing/cylinder head bolts 1.9-2.4 Oil pump set screws:

Large 1.9-2.4 Small

Fuel

pump

Inlet manifold 1.9-2.4 Timing belt tensioner nut:

Cold engine Hot engine 3.0-3.6

*OHed

threads

1 General description

The Alfasud engine is not particularly conventional. As a flat four, single overhead present time. The specifications explain the basic workings of the engine adequately, this paragraph will explain its significance to the home mechanic. Do not be put off the Alfasud engine by its description, nor by what it looks like sitting in the car. It is a relatively simple unit to remove and equally so to dismantle. No special tools are strictly necessary but it is a must to use a wide selection of good

bolts*

6.7-7.4

4.1-5.0

4.4-4.9

12.0-14.7

8.3-8.9

0.8-1.0

nuts 1.9-2.4

3.8-4.7

camshaft,

water cooled engine it is unique at the

'paper'

kg f m Ib

48.5-53.5

29.5-36.0

31.8-35.4

69.4-77.3

86.7-106.4

60.0-64.3

13.7-17.3

5.7-7.2

13.7-17.3

27.4-33.8

21.6-25.9

quality tools. Many spanner (metric) sizes are used; it would be unwise to tackle the job without a full metric socket set, open and ring spanner set, screw drivers, able as the majority of the engine components are assembled at the factory with gasket cement and thread locking fluid. Have engine and grease cleaner available, too, as a clean engine is much easier to work on in this case, than a dirty one. Lots of lint free rag and wooden blocks to support the components will help. Follow the instructions very carefully, one sequence out could cost extra time and money. At times

it is

when this is so.

necessary

hammers,

have

punches etc. Have some easing fluid avail-

someone

f ft

else

help you;

you

will

told

7 Cylinder block

2 Main bearing cross-bolts

3 Main

bearing

cap

4 Front engine

Front

6 Oil seal 7 Gasket 8 Pressure sensor

cover

bolts

mounting

Fig. 1.1. Basic, static engine components

9 Rocker cover

End cover

Gasket

12 Cam

13 Oil seal

14 Gasket

15 Head gasket

housing

17-

16 Sump gasket 17 Sump

Crankcase rear cover

19 Oil seal

20 Oil

filler

21 Dipstick 22 Dipstick stop 23 V ring

24 Oil filter

Chapter

1/Engine

2 Major operations which may be carried out with the engine in the

car

Little major work can be carried out upon the engine with it still in the car. As it is relatively easy to take the engine and gearbox out of the car you may be easily carried out with the engine in the car. Here is a list of those

tasks which can be carried out with some indication as to whether or not it would be better to remove the engine:

Replacement of timing toothed belts (easy) Replacement of inlet

alternator and alternator drive belt, radiator and spark plugs (easy) Water pump (possible but very difficult due to interference fit of

pump) Sump (easy)

Big-end bearings (difficult and from below) Oil pump (easy)

Cylinder heads (see Chapter 12)

find

that nothing more than routine servicing can

manifold,

carburettor,

distributor,

exhaust,

3 Major operations which entail engine removal

It is necessary to remove the engine and gearbox from

carry out the replacement of the following components:

1 Clutch and gearbox

Crankshaft, flywheel, main bearings, pistons and connecting rods

4 Method of engine removal

The engine and gearbox must be removed together complete and must always be done from below. This may mean either lowering the engine/gearbox from a hoist under the bodyshell to sufficient height, or to wheel the engine and gearbox from under

the car on a

Whatever happens ideal conditions are necessary: flat floor, elbow

hoist and tall stacks.

trolley

jack

and

bodyshell,

physically

having jacked up the

lift

the

ths

bodyshell

car to

over

room,

it.

5.8a The radiator top support

5.10

Disconnect the starter motor cables

5.8b Removing the radiator

5.15

Removing the air cleaner cover

5.9 Accelerator return spring

5.17

Disconnecting the choke cable

5.22 Front brake pipe union

5.23 Moving the clutch slave cylinder out of the

way

plete and

hell over it.

elbow room,

5.28 The reversing light switch

5.29 Exhaust pipe connection

5.30 Camshaft cover and bracket

5.31 Rubber

5.34 Remove the Allen screws shafts crossmember

O-rings

support exhaust system 5.32 Exhaust

from

the drive- 5.36 Front engine mounting is secured to

pipe-to-cylinder

head connections 5.33 Disc dust cover seen from below

5.37a

Crossmember-to-bodyshell

bolts

attachment

5.37b Anti-roll bar mountings need not be 5.37c Crossmember and anti-roll bar can be disturbed removed complete

5.38 Gearbox tail mounting

Chapter

1/Engine

5.39 Engine centre mounting

5.40 Handbrake cable is visible to the rear of the engine mounting

5.41

b Raise the bodyshell to clear the engine

5 Engine removal

1 Place the car in a convenient spot where it is possible to gain access underneath it for its full length and where it is possible to leave it jacked up and supported on stands. A hoist can be used or instead a trolley

jack

lift

the

bodyshell

lower

the

engine,

and

room

to use

them.

2 Run the engine until it is at its normal working temperature. Switch off and chock the rear wheels on both sides of the car. Open the bonnet and disconnect the battery earth lead. Drain the engine

oil.

3 Remove the front grille. It is fixed by one screw on each side and

four on the bottom edge. Pull off the central badge (it is a push-on fit) and remove the last screw which is mounted behind it. 4 The four bonnet hinge bolts are now exposed. Have someone hold

the bonnet and remove the four bolts. Squeeze the bonnet support,

unclip it and remove the bonnet to a safe place. 5 It is not

necessary

but it

will

give greater

working

space

if you now

drain the cooling system and then remove the radiator. Jack up the

front of the car and support it. Obtain two receptacles which will

hold about a gallon each and place them under the coolant drain

plugs, one under the centre of each cylinder block. Undo the plugs

and allow the radiator and the cylinder blocks to drain, once you

have removed the expansion chamber filler cap. Remove the

receptacles and lower the car.

6 Remove the bottom and top hoses to the radiator by pinching

the two hose clips on each hose, one at each end, and carefully

levering

off the tight hoses. Remove the expansion chamber hose at the radiator by unscrewing the hose clip and slipping it off. 7 Pull off the electrical connections to the thermostatically controlled fan switch and one of these to the fan. The other wire to the fan is an earth wire and should be disconnected at earth which is one of the headlamp support studs.

8 Undo the one radiator support which is in the centre of its top

chamber. This is a one stud with a nut fixing, on rubber. Undo the nut and carefully pull the radiator back at the top towards the bulkhead, and lift out.

5.41

a Lower the engine to the ground

9 Disconnect the accelerator control linkage from the lever on the carburettor. You will need to unhook the return spring and a special connecting ring, a sort of circlip.

10 Disconnect the engine and transmission earth cable which is

connected to an end cover nut adjacent to the starter motor. Discon-

nect the two starter motor cables. Pull off the water temperature warning light wire from the sender unit on the right hand bank of cylinders. All these wires are in the same harness. Tie them all back

out of the

way.

Pull off the terminals from the alternator and then release the cables from the retaining clip on the engine lifting hook which is on the outer end of the inlet manifold fixing. Tie back.

12 Pull off the high tension and low tension cables from the

distributor and tie back.

13 Pull off the cable from the sender unit for the engine oil pressure

warning light.

14 Pull off the

carburettor

air cleaner warm air intake pipe from its lower fixing and unclip the hose clip at its top end on the air cleaner.

Remove.

15 Unscrew the wing nut on the top of the air cleaner, remove cover and the element inside. Now remove the air cleaner body and gasket from the carburettor. This is fixed by two nuts and studs on the Alfasud and four on the Alfasud

Tl.

Pull off the breather pipes which come with it. 16 Release the support bracket for the accelerator cable from the

top of the carburettor which is now exposed. It fits over the top of the inlet.

17 Disconnect the flexible cable and the outer cable of the choke at

the clamp and screw. Two small spanners will be necessary here. 18 For ease of movement remove the plug caps and leads together

with the distributor cap. Then remove the rotor arm.

19 Pull off the brake servo pipe to the inlet manifold and tie back, on those models so

fitted.

20 Unclip the hose clips and remove as many of the heater hoses as possible. Remove them from the front side of the inner bulkhead only; do not remove them at the heater itself. A screwdriver, carefully used to lever off the hoses, always helps. Some of them are clipped to the engine oil filler pipe, disconnect here too. Do not forget the pipe to the expansion chamber also. 21 Disconnect the petrol feed pipe to the fuel pump and tie back.

22 Remove the cap to the brake fluid master cylinder reservoir and

place a piece of thin polythene over the opening and replace the cap.

This prevents brake fluid leakage for the next operation. Disconnect the front brake flexible pipes from the rigid pipes which come direct from the master cylinder at the special unions, one on each side of the inner bulkhead, on the front side. Two spanners will be necessary. Seal off the pipes with suitable plugs. 23 To remove the clutch slave cylinder from the engine block locate

it close to the engine oil filler pipe. On the far side there is a large

circlip which holds the body of the slave cylinder in place. Release this circlip and the slave cylinder will come back through its fixing and can be placed out of harm's way on the other side of the inner bulkhead. There is no need to disconnect the piping.

Chapter 1/Engine

Inside

the car

pull

off the at the foot of the gearlever and the rubber gaiter below that. They are nothing more than simply clipped in.

Inside

the car handbrake. the pivot pin so that the lever is loose. Now remove the handbrake

the cable inner about to enable the ferrule to release itself from the

cable

and be

pushed through the lever at an angle.

26 Everything that needs to be done from above the engine has been

completed. the

place the front of the car. Remove the 27 Drain the gearbox oil. Replace the plug when the oil has drained. 28

From

switch

cable

drive

cable retaining spring. 29 Go to the left-hand rear road wheel and just in front of it spray the

exhaust

releasing breaking 30 Now go to the engine.

There

exhaust

and to the end of the

air

cleaner intake. 31 Go

back

clamp

completely.

and

try to

have

split

back

the

sets

rubber

and rear silencer.

32 Undo and remove the eight nuts which support the four pipes of

the exhaust manifolds at the cylinder heads. Then remove the two rubber

'0'

part

of the

Obviously

the front or the back as it is released. 33 Now remove the two front disc dust covers. These are individually

fixed

with four

bracket

on the on the top top side of the cover located into the side of the gearbox. 34 With the appropriate alien key undo and release the alien screws

which

bolts

Allen

screws

necessary

releasing

expensive shafts

and tie the inner bulkhead. 35

From

hoist.

There

Use

these the gearbox. For the moment support the engine on the two eyes. Another

method

with

the

not so

good 36 The front crossmember should come out with the anti-roll bar attached.

arm/crossmember

to the inner side of the remove

the two

the crossmember. These are located just in front of the anti-roll

bar, in the centre.

37 At each end of the front crossmember are two bolts which locate

it to the

engine

support (front) anti-roll bar still fixed, should come away. The engine and gearbox should be supported, of course, by the sling or trolley jack together with the rear centre mounting and the rear gearbox mounting. 38 Remove the two support bolts for the rear gearbox mounting located

at the end of the

39 From above with the tail shaft of the gearbox supported by another

pull

Undo

the nut on the

cable

ferrule

pushed

through.

Now

jack

that

you can let it

below

the

gearbox

pulling

from

the

side

connection (the exhaust

agent.

The

will

helped

front

is a tin

warm

air

intake.

to the

exhaust system,

Tap the

make

the

joint

them.

tail pipe

agent.

above

lifting

Undo

bodyshell.

Use a

off the

'O'

ring

ring exhaust system

total system.

will

help

bolts. underside

the two

front

will

tight

to use a

Watch

replace. Never

them back, preferably upwards

support

are two

plus a third

lifting

is to

head

protected

but it

will

the

bolt

to the transverse suspension arm at the strut, close

bolts

With these four removed the

gearlever

off the

handbrake lever gaiter

which

locates

up the car as

rest

at the

off.

Then

of the

joint

bound

if you use

of the car to the right-hand exhaust below the

moulding

camshaft cover.

Remove

connection

move

large screwdriver

front

exhaust

supports

The

system should

have another person

Two

appear

of the

drive

they

piece

tubing

the

rubber bellows

'bodge'

the

engine

eyes,

point

when

support

the

work

if no

which

front

hub. Do this on each side. Slacken and

from

below

and

both

tail

shaft.

knob.

Then

handbrake lever

the

has a

step

high

as you can at the

whilst

the

front

wheels.

rear,

disconnect

gearbox

splits to be

releasing

which

the two

split

with a copper-headed hammer

some

part

of the

and

supports

from

below

gearbox sump

shafts

to the

are

'Loctited'

on the

the

proper

and

gearbox

one on

each

becomes

engine

with a piece

hoist

locates

the

that

fix the

trailing

suspension

pivot

cable

to the

on it and

engine

the

speedometer

unclipping

here

into

rusted together

fluid

now.

bolted

to a

This

bolts

and

release

way. Eventually

punch

system.

Undo

remove

at the

other

now

drop

under

and

bolt

and the

disc/hub

into

Allen

key

as you do

tool.

with

string

with a sling

end of the

visible

from

below

wood.

available.

rear

end of the

front

pull

out the

and

release

pin,

remove

circlip

lever. Juggle

this

has to be

front

out.

Support

the

reverse

the

special

two

parts)

and its

bracket

is the

on the

carburettor

release

the

exhaust

you

will

to try to tap

the two

the

tail

pipe

end of the

away.

the car to

into a special

other

two are

flanges. These

position.

plus some

this

for

they

Release

the

wire

and a

inlet

through

engine

links

the top of

with a trolley This

method

suspension

mounting

crossmember,

with

'bag'

the

on the

light

with

the

front

hold

It may

are

half

manifold.

jack

the

person under the car (no strength is needed, just a steadying hand)

slacken and remove the centre engine mounting bolt located under the centre of the inner bulkhead. The engine and gearbox are now loose. 40 If you are using a hoist allow the engine/gearbox to be lowered to the ground. Now disconnect the handbrake cable from both the front brake calipers. A pair of grips and a stout screwdriver are necessary to do this with some force. The return spring on the cable is very stiff. Once done, tie the handbrake cable back. Now relocate the hoist so that it is mounted at three points, the third being through the support on the gearbox from whence the handbrake cable came. Raise

the

engine

and

gearbox

unit

just

off the

ground

and

pull

forward

and out

from

under

the

car.

some

point

necessary

have

is a

minimum

total

unit.

from

you

pull

the studs around

have to remove the hoist to clear the front of the car. Take the engine and gearbox to the point where you intend to work. Three strong

men

could

lift

the

total

unit 41 If you are using a trolley jack, lower the engine and gearbox unit and remove the handbrake cable as described in the previous paragraph. At the jack's lowest point pull the whole unit forward until you are ready

clear

the

over

the

engine

and two

will

persons.

6 Engine removal from gearbox

1 Place the engine and gearbox (preferably) on a strong working surface

still

the pair on the ground.

2 Remove the nuts, bolts and washers which support the starter

motor to the bell housing. Remove the starter motor.

3 Remove from the underside of both units the flywheel protection

cover. This is retained by a number of bolts and washers to the rear engine cover and by one at the bottom to the gearbox casing.

4 Remove all the remaining nuts and washers

the

bell

housing. the gearbox from the engine. Take care with the gearbox shaft which locates through the centre of the clutch. Do not allow any pressure on it - pull off straight.

have

with

underside

and

gearbox.

the

Both

lift

sling

engine

the

just

complete.

of the

car.

One

person

bodyshell.

supporting

and

gearbox

is will

This

the

may now be

will

lift

the

number

If not

split

again

the car

engine

place

lifting

Dismantling

7 Engine dismantling - general

Owners strong work bench and many tools and pieces of equipment, which make their life much easier when going through the process of dis-

mantling

the which, to the job in the long run. It is essential to have sufficient space in which to work. Dismantling and reassembly is not going to be completed all in one go and it is therefore absolutely essential that you have sufficient area to leave things as they are when necessary. A strong work bench is also necessary together with a good engineer's vice. If you have no alternative other than to work at ground level, make wooden or wood composition material on which to work. If dirt and grit are allowed to get into any of the component parts all work which you carry out may be completely wasted. Before actually placing the engine wherever it is that you may be carrying out the dismantling, make sure that the exterior is now completely and thoroughly cleaned. 2 Once dismantling begins it is advisable to clean the parts as they are removed. A small bath of paraffin is about the best thing to use for this, but do not let parts which have

immersed in paraffin otherwise there may be a residue which could

cause harmful effects later on. If paraffin does get into oilways every

effort should be made to blow it out. For this it may be

carry

hose. Short oilways such as there are in the crankshaft can be cleared

who

have

dismantled

an engine. For those who are doing a dismantling job for

first

time,

there are a few

if not

sure

the

particular

acquired,

that

the

will

floor

part

only

is at

to a

engines

'musts'

cause

least level

garage

fitted

will

know

the

in the way of preparation

frustration

and

oilways

and

covered

with a suitable

in them become

with a high pressure

need

long

delays

necessary

for a

air

Chapter 1 /Engine

easily with pipe cleaners. 3 Always obtain a complete set of gaskets when the engine is being dismantled - no gaskets on an engine are re-usable and any attempt

to do so is quite unjustified in view of the relatively small cost involved. Before throwing any gaskets away, however, make sure that you have the replacement to hand. obtained it may be necessary to make one, and the pattern of the old one is useful in such cases.

4 Generally speaking, it is best to start dismantling the engine from the top downwards. times so that it does not topple over whilst you are undoing the very tight nuts and bolts which will be encountered. Always replace nuts and bolts into their locations once the particular part has been removed, if possible. Otherwise keep them in convenient tins or pots in their groups, so that when the time comes to reassemble there is the minimum of confusion.

8 Distributor - removal

1 The distributor cap, plug leads and caps should have been removed already. So should the rotor arm. Pull off the vacuum advance pipe at the carburettor and leave it attached to the distributor. 2 There is no need to record the position in which the fixed to enable quick and accurate ignition timing upon replacement as static timing marks are provided on a dowelled flywheel and there

is a cut on the rim of the distributor body where the caps fit to align the rotor arm. Also there are adequate instructions for ignition timing

in Chapter 4. The distributor is therefore quickly removed. 3 Slacken the nut fixing the distributor to the adjusting plate on the rear crankcase cover. Remove the nut and pull the distributor away.

If,

for example, a particular gasket cannot be

any case, make sure it is firmly supported at all

distributor

9 Oil filter - removal

1 Withdraw the dipstick.

Hold

a rag

under

the oil

seal

catch

the oil

which

will

flow

filter

off the

gasket.

out

body

fuel

when you release the oil filter. Now use a strap or chain wrench around

the oil filter body and release, unscrew and discard it. An alternate method if a proper wrench is not available is to unscrew the using a hammer and screwdriver to drive it in an anticlockwise direction.

3 Always use a new filter on a rebuilt engine.

10 Alternator - removal

1 First slacken the bolts which adjust the alternator drive belt using

the alternator body as a fulcrum. Loosen and remove the alternator

drive belt. You must of course slacken two bolts to do this, one is on

the adjuster plate and the other is the alternator pivot bolt. 2 Slacken and remove the two bolts which attach the adjuster plate to the front crankcase cover. Now remove the alternator pivot bolt and remove the alternator still attached to the alternator adjuster plate.

Carburettor - removal

1 The carburettor is easily removed from the inlet manifold. The Alfasud carburettor is attached by two studs and nuts whilst the Alfasud

the

line. Do the same at the fuel pump and remove the pipe. 2 Now carefully slacken the carburettor fixing nuts, remove and then

is attached by four studs and nuts. First, however, slacken

hose

clip

to the

lift

fuel line

off the

carburettor, followed

on the

carburettor

by the

spacer

and

pull

and

9—

Fig. 1.2. Crankshaft, pistons and flywheel

Crankshaft

Connecting rod 3 Gudgeon pin 4 Piston

Piston rings

Big-end

bolt

Drive pulley

Toothed belt drive wheels

Woodruff key

10 Plug

11 Peg

12 Thrust washers

13 Peg

14 Bush

Skew gear

Special flywheel washer

Flywheel

18 Flywheel bolt

Chapter

T/Engine

12 Inlet manifold and thermostat housing - removal

1 The inlet manifold is held at each end, on each bank of by three studs and nuts. See paragraph 3 before attempting to remove. To remove, unscrew gradually the six nuts, three at each end, remove, and

then carefully

engine

lifting of the nuts it may be necessary to first pull off the HT lead clips held by the lifting hooks. 2 The thermostat housing is a little more complicated as it should

include the water inlet adapter. 3 The thermostat housing is attached to the inlet manifold by two studs and nuts. It is easiest to remove the thermostat housing once the

inlet manifold has been removed from the engine. This is quite possible

if you first slacken and then pull off the coolant hose which connects

the thermostat housing to the water inlet adapter. 4 To remove the thermostat housing from the inlet manifold remove

the two nuts from the fixing studs and pull off.

5 To remove the water inlet adapter from the crankcase, slacken and

remove

the

hose

should

13 Fuel pump - removal

1 The fuel pump is fixed to the crankcase adjacent to the flywheel

to the

Slacken

pump, gasket, spacer and operating rod which come away loose.

14 Camshaft drive belts - removal

1 Turn the engine to bring No 1 piston to TDC on the compression

stroke (see Section 42). The engine may be turned using a 30 mm

spanner

on the

engaging top gear and pushing the car along.

2 If not already done, remove the alternator drivebelt and the cam-

shaft

drivebelt covers 3 Slacken the nut which secures the right-hand camshaft drivebelt tensioner. Relieve the tension from the belt and tighten the nut to secure

the 4 Remove the right-hand drivebelt from the drive wheels. 5 Repeat the procedure on the left-hand side of the engine and remove

6 Do not rotate the crankshaft or belt(s) removed. There is a risk of piston/valve contact and subsequent

tensioner

the

lift

fixing be

located

oil

filler

remove

camshaft

(if

drivebelt.

the

nuts

the two

pulley

fitted).

this

hooks come away

four

still

engine

and

left-hand

whole

with

from to the

tube.

It is

nuts

bolt,

position.

manifold

the

studs

water

inlet

fixed

on the

(with

either

off.

manifold

and

lift

adapter.

by two

fixing

the

engine

camshaft with the

cylinders,

course,

the two

nuts.

undo

off.

The

connecting

studs

and

studs, remove

nuts.

in the

drive-

the

car)

some

damage, if this is done. Small movements of the camshafts, such as may be necessary when refitting the drivebelt(s), should be made carefully and without force.

7 Refer to Section 42 for the refitting procedure. Note that at some stage it will be necessary to remove the camshaft covers (if not already done) in order to inspect the camshaft timing marks.

15 Cylinder heads and camshafts - removal

For cylinder head Chapter

12.

1 The camshaft housing with the camshaft installed can be removed from the cylinder head with the head still attached to the crankcase. For a complete stripdown it is easier to remove the cylinder head with the camshaft housing still attached and then remove the camshaft housing from the head afterwards.

2 Using a Phillips screwdriver slacken and remove the camshaft

housing cover and gasket. Held inside the housing is a quantity of oil if you have a suitable syringe suck up this oil to avoid an undue mess; if not leave the oil there and pour it away after the head is removed.

3 Slacken the six large cylinder head bolts - three are outside the

housing and three are inside. Slacken these diagonally, remove and then pull off the cylinder head and camshaft housing intact (watch the oil if still in the housing). If the head will not shift tap it gently with a copper-headed hammer to loosen. 4 Repeat for the other cylinder head and camshaft housing. 5 To remove the camshaft housing from the cylinder head pour off

the oil if not already sucked out. Slacken and remove the three

nuts on the camshaft end cover, and then remove the cover and gasket. 6 The camshaft housing is attached to the cylinder head by four

nuts on studs, between the cylinder head bolts. Slacken the four nuts diagonally, remove and pull off the camshaft housing. Together with the tappet buckets, record which valve they are removed from and

put them in a safe place. 7 Place the camshaft drive pulley in the jaws of a

and tighten the vice enough to grip the pulley. Slacken the centre fixing nut. Remove the whole thing from the vice, remove the fixing

nut, pull off the pulley and washer. Now remove the camshaft very

carefully through the rear cover end. Pull it through straight to

protect the camshaft lobes. 8 Repeat the whole operation for the other cylinder head and camshaft housing and record the fit of the various parts so that they

can be replaced in the same place. 9 Valve and spring removal is described in Section

removal

with the engine still in the car, refer

'soft'

mouthed vice

31.

also

Fig. 1.3. Camshafts and drivebelts

/ Camshaft

2 Drive wheel

3 Peg

4 Belt

5 Bolt

6 Tensioner wheel

7 Tensioner spring and

fastening components

16 Water pump and pulley - removal

If the engine is in the car, refer also to Chapter 2, Section 9.

1 The water pump is unusual on the Alfasud in that it is an integral

interference fit in the crankcase rather than a face fit as is normal. It is not easy to remove. 2 Carefully bolts. Remove the bolts and tap off the pulley. 3 Slacken the four fixing bolts of the water pump. Spray the whole unit, particularly the point at which the rim of the pump

crankcase,

tap one of the ribs of the pump with a piece of wood using a copperheaded hammer in an anti-clockwise direction. With luck you will break the seal - carefully now tap out the water pump in a

motion.

17 Crankshaft pulley and drives - removal

1 Hold the flywheel by jamming (carefully) a screwdriver in the starter ring gear and then slacken the crankshaft pulley securing nut. Some force may be necessary. Remove the nut, the washer, the alternator drive pulley, and then the two camshaft drive pulleys and spacers. Note their strict order. 2 Remove the screwdriver from the starter ring gear.

18 Sump - removal

'hold'

with

the water pump pulley and slacken the three fixing

releasing

fluid.

Leave

for a

minute

and

'to'

Chapter

fits

the

then carefully

and

'fro'

1/Engine

1 Turn the engine over so that the sump is fully exposed. 2 Slacken

washers

19 Oil pump - removal

1 The oil pump is fixed direct to the rear crankcase cover and is exposed by removing the sump. It is fixed by three bolts to the cover, those nearest the flywheel. (The other two bolts on the opposite side of the oil pump fix the pump to the pump support. These two can be slackened and removed once the whole unit is removed). 2 Slacken the three the pump which pulls straight up.

20 Crankcase front cover - removal

1 Still attached to the front crankcase cover is the front engine

mounting. To remove this slacken and remove the four mounting

bolts,

2 The front cover is located by eight bolts and two studs and nuts. Slacken all these and then remove. The front cover will be stuck to the wait a minute and then very, very carefully tap the cover using a

piece of wood and a copper-headed hammer. Do not lever and do not be rough. Take your time and work progressively and slowly.

When

Big-end

the bolts which fix the sump, remove them with their

and

then

lift

off the

sump.

pump-to-cover

and then pull off the mounting.

crankcase

with

gasket

cement. Using

released,

pull

off

straight

bearings and piston - removal

bolts and then remove. Remove

releasing

save

the oil

fluid

seal

on the

possible.

joints,

Fig. 1.4. Oil pump

Top body and spindle 4 Valve 2 Gear 5 Spring 3 Gauze filter 6 Washer

22 Flywheel - removal

1 Remove the clutch (see Chapter 5). 2 Hold the flywheel with a screwdriver jammed into the starter ring gear as you did in Section 17. 3 Slacken the six flywheel bolts, remove with their drilled washer and then pull off the flywheel. It is dowelled in one place.

23 Crankcase rear cover - removal

1 The rear crankcase cover is removed in the same way as the front, see

Sectioji

20, except that there are eight

fixing

bolts only.

1 Rotate the flywheel to gain access to the big-end caps and bolts. Each big-end cap and connecting rod are stamped with their number. 2

Slacken remove a pair, then the cap with bearing installed and push the piston and rod through the cylinder bore. Be careful not to scratch the cylinder with the end of the connecting rod. Rotate the crankshaft and proceed with the next piston. 3 Store the piston, connecting rod and big-end bearing cap with bolts replaced, in oil if you wish to retain and refit the bearings. This should stop corrosion to the bearing which may occur from exposure to the air if not so covered. 4 Removing piston from connecting rod is discussed in Section 27.

each

big-end bearing

cap

bolt,

two per

connecting rod,

24 Main bearings and crankshaft - removal

1 The three main bearings are capped and braced with transverse bolts. 2 Unscrew the transverse locking bolts from the main bearing caps, then the bolts and washers fixing the main bearing caps to their supports. 3 Remove the caps and keep the bearing halves in order of removal so that they can be refitted in their original position if reused. 4

Lift

the

5 Retain the main bearing halves and the thrust washer halves and

crankshaft

mark their exact position to aid replacement if necessary.

from

the

crankcase.

Chapter 1

/Engine

Inspection and renovation

25 Cylinder compression test

1 A

great

deal

can be

told

about

an compression that action should be taken with the engine's internals. Fortunately a compression test is an easy thing to undertake on an Alfasud engine.

2 Buy or borrow a cylinder compression tester. Run the engine until it has reached normal operating temperature, then stop it and remove the spark hole. engine pression tester. Record the reading and repeat the operation on the other three cylinders. 3 The minimum satisfactory pressure in any cylinder is approximately

10.5 kgf/cm2 (150 is the difference between cylinders, which should not exceed 1

(14 4 The but it will not differentiate between the various possible causes of low compression. Obviously, the battery must be in good condition if the results are not to be meaningless.

26 Crankcase/cylinder block

1 Make sure both sides of the crankcase are spotlessly clean and dry. 2 Examine each side. Look for cracks, burrs, loose studs and any sign of rotating parts fouling the crankcase. Do not be afraid of asking an

'experienced

Alfasud. If you are not close to an Alfa Romeo agency, a Volkswagen agency the condition of your crankcases, for the Beetle engine is very close in this respect.

27 Liners, pistons, piston rings and connecting rods

1 A new cylinder is perfectly round and the walls parallel throughout its length. The action of the piston tends to wear the walls at right angles principally on that section of the cylinder swept by the piston rings.

2 It is possible to get an indication of bore wear by removing the

cylinder heads. With the piston down in the bore first signs of wear can piston it is fairly reasonable to expect that bore wear is not severe and any lack of compression or excessive oil consumption is due to worn or broken piston rings or pistons.

3 If it is possible to obtain a bore measuring micrometer measure the bore cylinder in the same plane. If the difference is more than 0.0762 mm then a rebore is necessary. Similarly, a difference of 0.0762 mm or more across the bore diameter is a sign of ovality calling for a new liner or rebore.

4 Any bore which is significantly scratched or scored will need replacement of the liner or reboring. This symptom usually indicates that the piston or rings are damaged also event necessary for all four liners to be replaced or to be bored and fitted with new oversize pistons and rings. 5 Your Alfa Romeo agent or local motor engineering specialist will be able to rebore and obtain the necessary matched pistons. If the crankshaft is undergoing regrinding also it is a good idea to let the same firm renovate and reassemble the crankshaft and pistons to

the block. A reputable firm normally gives a guarantee for such work. In cases where engines have been rebored already to their maximum, new cylinder liners are available which may be fitted.

In such cases the same reboring processes have to be followed and the 6 Worn pistons and rings can usually be diagnosed when the symptoms of excessive oil consumption and low compression occur

test.

It may not

plugs. Screw

Have

on the

Ibf/in2)

compression tester

should

to the

seen

ring

in the

only

services

on an engine in good condition.

engine

gudgeon

and

reaches

thrust plane below

of a

hold

assistant

starter

one

hold

until a steady reading

Ibf/in2).

man',

able

confirm

pin due to

felt

just below

and

there

cylinder

specialist engineering

the

will

particularly if he has knowledge of the

being

engine's

give a specific answer

compression tester

the

throttle

More important than the absolute reading

pinpoint

any

side

thrust.

the top of the

will

be a

the lip and

need

wide

trouble

thoughts

This

noticeable

again

that cylinder.

reboring

firm

are

condition

open obtained

you may

bore where

required.

by a

but it

into

one

and

on the

in a

particular

have

wear takes place

lip.

there

at the

bottom

will

cylinder

will

spark

crank

the top

is no lip

the

still

confirm

plug the com-

kgf/cm

cylinder,

about

of the

and are sometimes, though not always, associated with worn cylinder

bores. Compression testers that fit into the spark plug holes are available and these can indicate where low compression is occuring. Wear usually accelerates the more it is left so when the symptoms occur, early action can possibly save the expense of a rebore. 7 Another symptom of piston wear is from the crankcase not to be confused with big-end bearing failure.

It can be heard clearly at low engine speed when there is no load

(idling for example) and is much less audible when the engine speed

increases. Piston wear usually occurs in the skirt or lower end of the piston and is indicated by vertical streaks in the worn area which is always on the thrust side. It can also be seen where the

differs. 8 Piston ring wear can be checked by first removing the rings from the pistons. Then place the rings in the cylinder bores from the top, pushing them down about 44mm with the head of a piston (from which the rings have been removed) so that they rest square in the cylinder. Then measure the gap at the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. If it exceeds 0.45mm for the two top compression rings, and

0.40mm for the oil control ring then they need renewal.

9 The groove in which the rings locate in the piston can also become

enlarged in use. The clearance between ring and piston, in the groove,

should not exceed

and 0.025-0.057mm for the lower oil control ring.

10 However, it is rare that a piston is only worn in the ring grooves

and the need to replace them for this fault alone is hardly ever

encountered. Wherever pistons are renewed the weight of the four

piston/connecting variation of 13 g to maintain engine balance.

Any wear or distortion found in the gudgeon pin, small end or connecting rod will mean fitting a complete piston/connecting rod assembly. 12 Connecting rods are not subject to wear but in extreme circumstances such as engine seizure they could be distorted. Such conditions may be visually apparent but where doubt exists they should be changed. The bearing caps should also be examined for indications of filing down which may have been attempted in the mistaken idea that bearing slackness could be remedied in this way. If there are such signs then the connecting rods should be replaced. 13 It is not possible to remove a piston from its connecting rod

without special and sophisticated tools. If you anticipate the need

to replace the connecting rod, gudgeon pin or piston then you must take the complete rod/piston assembly to a specialist engine builder or to an Alfa Romeo agency. They should be able to remove the piston from the connecting rod. 14 In the same way that you cannot remove a

rod, so you cannot fit one either. Get your specialist to do both jobs

for

you.

Do not attempt to disregard this - if you try to remove the piston

without the proper equipment, you will destroy it.

28 Crankshaft, big-end and main bearings

1 Look at the three main bearing journals and the four crankpins and

there

are any

regrinding. Such conditions will nearly always be accompanied by similar deterioration in the matching bearing shells. 2 Each bearing journal should also be round and can be checked with a micrometer or

If there is more than 0.0254 mm of ovality regrinding is necessary. 3 An

Alfa Romeo agent to decide to what extent regrinding is necessary and also supply the special undersize shell bearings to match whatever may need grinding

off.

4 Before taking the crankshaft for regrinding check also the cylinder

bores and pistons as it may be advantageous to have the whole engine done together. 5 With careful servicing and regular oil and filter changes bearings will last for a very long time but they can still fail for unforeseen

reasons. With big-end bearings the indications are regular rhythmic

knocking from the crankcase, the frequency depending on engine

speed. It is particularly noticeable when the engine is under load. This symptom is accompanied by a fall in oil pressure although this

is not normally noticeable unless an oil pressure gauge is fitted.

bearing failure is usually indicated by serious vibration, particularly

0.035-0.067mm

rod

assemblies

scratches

caliper

score

gauge around the periphery at several points.

motor

piston

slap - a knocking noise

skirt

for the top two compression rings

should

kept

within

the

piston

from a connecting

marks then

engineering specialist

the

shaft

will

thickness

limit

need

able

Main

Chapter I/Engine

at higher engine in oil pressure and a 6 Bearing shells in good condition have bearing surfaces with a smooth, even, matt silver/grey colour all over. Worn bearings will show patches of a different colour where the bearing metal has worn away

and scored. It is always well worthwhile fitting new shells as their cost is relatively low. 7

Refer

bearing shells.

29 Flywheel (and starter ring gear)

1 There are two areas in which the flywheel may have been worn or

damaged. Firstly, is on the driving face where the clutch friction plate

bears against it. Should the clutch plate have been permitted to wear down beyond the level of the rivets, it is been scored. If this scoring is severe it may be necessary to have it refaced or even renewed. 2 The other part to examine is the teeth of the starter ring gear around the periphery of the flywheel. If several of the teeth are broken or missing, or the front edges of all teeth are obviously very badly chewed up, then it would be advisable to fit a new ring gear. 3 The old ring gear can be removed by cutting a slot with a hacksaw down between two of the teeth as far as possible, without cutting into the

flywheel

which can then be drawn off. To fit a new ring gear requires it to be

heated first to a temperature of 435°F, no more. This is best done in a bath of oil or an oven, but not, preferably, with a naked flame. It is much more difficult to spread and heat evenly and control it to the required temperature

attained the correct temperature it can be placed onto the flywheel

making sure that it beds down properly onto the register. It should then be allowed to cool down naturally. If by mischance, the ring

gear

overheated,

lost,

therefore softening

of time.

4 Although it is not actually fitted into the flywheel itself, there is

a bush in the centre of the crankshaft flange onto which the flywheel fits.

Although

clutch, whilst carrying out work on the flywheel. If it shows signs of wear it should be renewed. If suitable extractors are not available to get it out

another method

in a

piece

A new bush may be pressed in.

30 Oil pump

1 Only work on the oil pump with it removed from the block. 2

With body. 3 Take care with the valve boss, the valve and the pressure relief spring which will come away when the cover face is removed. 4 Take out the driven gear and then the drive gear and the shaft. 5 Clean all the parts with petrol or paraffin and check the condition of the splines on the driveshaft. They should be unchewed and straight. 6 Check the condition of the valve and its seating. There should be no

irregularity or ridges in either. The valve should be replaced anyway if

you have reached this stage. 7 Check the spring. If possible replace it anyway at this stage. Obtain the correct replacement without fail. 8 Check the clearance between the pump gears and their body. If over

0.008 face for marks and irregularities. Replace if scored. 9 It may be found that if two or more parts need replacing that it is

more economic and quicker to replace the whole pump. There is no exchange scheme.

31 Cylinder heads and valves, plus

1 Alfasud cylinder heads are expensive to replace. Handle them with

care for they are of aluminium alloy - whilst efficient, reliable and well

revolutions,

exposed

the

Chapter

itself.

Once

this bush is more correctly associated with the gearbox

it is

mentioned

pump

(0.20

is to

fitting

clear

mm)

the

accompanied by a more significant drop

'rumbling'

underlay. Damaged bearings

with a naked flame. Once

should

noise.

for a

discussion

the cut is

it, and it

here

fill

steel

pull

replace

made a chisel

not be

used.

will

wear

well

as it

the

recess

bar. This should force

apart

the

gears.

decarbonisation

selective

possible

The

out in a

would

with

cover

Also check

that the flywheel has

will

the

temper

be a

grease

face

and

will

fitting

split

ring

gear

will

very short

pity

and

then drive

the

filter

the

pitted

big-end

the

ring

has

have

been

space

ignore

bush out.

to the

cover

gear

main

joint

made they a straight edge check the surface for checked by your agent. This is especially important if you have suffered from a blown head gasket. 2 In can be done to Alfasud cylinder heads by the man at home, except for valve grinding and spring replacement. 3 The valves can be removed from the cylinder head by the following method. Compress each spring in turn with a valve spring compressor until compressor and remove the spring and spring retainer. 4 If, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the valve spring retaining cap refuses to free to expose the split collet, do not continue to screw down on the compressor as there is a likelihood

of damaging it.

5 Gently tap the top of the tool directly over the cap with a light

hammer. This the valve spring retaining cap when it is tapped, hold the compressor firmly in position with one hand. 6 Slide the rubber oil control seal off the top of each valve stem and then drop out each valve through the cylinder head. 7 It is essential that the valves are kept in their correct sequence unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed.

Provided there should of carborundum paste on the edge of the valve and using a suction type valve holder, grinding the valve in situ. This is done with a semirotary action, twirling the handle of the valve holder between the hands and lifting it occasionally to re-distribute the paste. Use a coarse appears on both the valve and seat the valve is of carbon should also be cleaned from the head and neck of the valve stem. A wire brush mounted way of doing this. 9 Valve guides seldom require replacement. As the valves work in a horizontal plane the problem of oil running down worn guides is not nearly so serious. The rock at the end for a new

whether replacement is required. The old guides must be drilled out partially before removal and the

new ones reamed to size after installation.

traditional method of a rubber sucker and paste, then, again, the agent must be consulted. Exhaust valves may only be ground in, not refaced on a machine, inlets may be refaced but the owner is unlikely to possess a machine, so the agent must again be sought.

12 Cylinder head inserts may be installed where valve seats are damaged but this is a factory job. Check the head for cracks between seats, and check the threads of the plug sockets.

Fig. 1.5. Valve and springs

will

suffer

dropped

fact,

apart

from

the

the two

halves

of the

will

free

the

ground

valve

with

start

and

are no

its

with.

guide,

paste

Inside diameters vary somewhat

If new guides are required this is a job for the Alfa Romeo agent.

If the valves cannot be ground in satisfactorily by hand using the

Valve 2 Base washers 3 Washer 4 Inner spring

5 Oil seal 6 Outer spring

7 Cap

8 Collets 9 Tappet bucket

facility

collets

cap.

obvious

seat.

soon

in a

and a

and

can be

signs

This

as a

power

wear

they

can

'flatness'

check

avoid

may be

but the

become

- if in doubt have them

the

cylinder

removed.

the

serious

matt

drill

the stem is 0.013-0.046 mm

limit

Release

compressor

pitting

done

placing a smear

grey unbroken

'ground

is a

quick

0.900

mm is

'rock'

test

distorted.

heads,

the

jumping

the

valve

line

in'.

All traces

and

effective

permitted.

will

decide

With

little

off

Chapter

1/Engine

Decarbonisation

13 Modern engines, together with modern fuels and lubricants have virtually nullified the need for the engine to have a 'decoke' which was common enough only a few years ago. Carbon deposits are formed

mostly on the modern engine only when it has to do a great deal of slow

speed, If carbon deposit symptoms are apparent, such as pinking or preignition and running on after the engine has been switched off, then a good high speed run on a motorway or straight stretch of road is usually sufficient to clear these deposits out. It is beneficial to any motor car to give it a good high speed run from time to time. 14 There will always be some carbon deposits, of course, so if the occasion demands the removal of the cylinder heads for some reason or another, it is a good idea to remove the carbon deposits when the opportunity presents itself. Carbon deposits in the combustion chambers described. are those on the crowns of the pistons. This work can easily be carried out with the engine in the car, but great care must be taken to cylinder jacket 15 Bring the first piston to be cleaned to the top of its stroke and then using a sheet of strong paper and some self-adhesive tape, mask off the adjacent cylinder and surrounding block to prevent any particles falling into the open orifice in the block. To prevent small particles of dislodged carbon from finding their way down the side of the piston

which the piston and the cylinder wall. Carbon deposits should then be scraped of the piston and the surrounding top edge of the cylinder. Great care must

soft

16 A

not be

the

distributed over a large area and the time saved by this method

17 After each piston has been attended to clean out the grease and carbon

engine for attention, check the bore of the cylinder which has just been decarbonised adhering to the inside of the bore.

32 Camshafts, tappets, camshaft pulleys and belts

1 The camshafts run in housings without removable bushes. If there

any damage or wear replacement is the only answer. Fortunately there 2 Carefully inspect the working surfaces of the camshafts, and the camshaft

overheating or uneven wear. If necessary, replace the components. Check the housings too, in the same way. 3 Examine the surfaces of the tappets in the housing, the housing itself uneven 4 The camshaft pulleys should be 100% reliable provided the teeth 5

'Never

Alfa quickly. 6 The toothed belts should last 40,000 miles without any trouble, maybe

automatically

you have deterioration and excessive wear. Provided no other contingency has occured which could effect them (like being immersed in oil)

there

under

stop/start running,

of the

cylinder head

The

other carbon deposits which

ensure

that

bores

orifices

away

taken

aluminium

wire

used

car. It is virtually impossible to prevent carbon particles being

very

little.

particles

is no

and the

wear.

are not

Romeo,

a lot

should

normal

particles

and

down

in the

cylinder

actually

being decarbonised

carefully

ensure

surface

brush, either operated

decarbonising

from

revolved

indication

journals - there should

use steel brushes, metal tools or similar for

nothing

be no

the gap

bring

and

make

that

lobe

seats

Again,

broken,

kept

this

will

longer.

Alfa

replacedafter36,000milesforabsolute

to do to them except inspect them for

problem.

usage.

If in

for

example,

(Tl

only)

can be

dislodged carbon fall either

past

the

piston

block.

with a flat

that

the

of the

piston

being done

where

the

next piston

sure

that

wear

be no

for

binding,

necessary,

clean

damage

Romeo recommend

Do not

doubt,

rings

press

blade

scraper

does

crown.

hand

it has

traces

prevalent

sign

scratching, overheating

replacement

and

undented.

the

teeth

clean

replace

them

busy traffic

dealt

with

have

to be

into

the

grease

into

the gap

from

the top of the

not

gouge away

or a

power

with

been

to the top of its

and

them - they

drill,

the

engine

pressed

carbon

this

area.

scratches,

is the

only

If in

doubt,

cleaning'

wear

out

that

safety. Essentially

both.

they

conditions.

dealt

with

into

water

between

should

still

in. As the

stroke

grease

binding,

and

answer.

replace.

pulley

are

cracks,

will

not

the

crown

into

are

say

belts

break

the

Reassembly

33 Engine - reassembly general

1 Everything has been checked and rectified and it is all laid out neatly ready for reassembly. Start with a clean bench of light oil, all the tools clean, plenty of clean non-fluffy rags, and clean hands and overalls. 2 Gaskets, 'O' rings and seals should be replaced by new ones and the set should be laid out conveniently on a clean flat surface. 3 Finally - take your time. The engine is a well made piece of machinery which goes together in a most satisfactory way, but each job must be completed properly and checked before going on to the next one.

34 Crankcase preparation

1 As the crankcase is the largest single component of the engine and because it holds together the other components, it is important that you start reassembly with this component in the best of condition - its significance is that you should intend to complete the engine in a similar frame of mind. The crankcase must be spotless. You should be able to apply the time old phrase,

from'.

2 Check several things. Are all gasket surfaces clean and smooth?

Have you removed the old gasket cement? Are the drillings clean all the way through? Are all the threads clean and good? Check everything and then check it again. Did you want to paint the outside of the crankcase assembly, 3 Now place the crankcase on the bench ready to replace the main bearing shells, ie with the bottom facing upwards.

35 Crankshaft and main bearings reassembly

1 If removed (very unlikely) replace the distributor and oil pump gear drive wheel to 150°C to re-install it. The gear should be positioned on the crank-

shaft in such a way that the start of a tooth is at an angle of between 22° and 26° to the centreline of the dowel. This refitment procedure

is so for all engines including those which were not so fitted originally

(see Fig. 1.6). 2 Fit the shell bearings into the main bearing webs of the crankcase

in the usual way. Use only your fingers to do it. Oil them liberally with

fresh fitting). 3 Now very carefully lower the crankshaft onto the main bearing

shells. 4 Fit the thrust half rings, with the oilways facing the crankshaft webs, either side of the main bearing journal adjacent to the flywheel end of the crankshaft. Remember from whence they came. Make sure

they are clean before fitting, and well oiled. 5 Fit the other half of the main bearing shells to the main bearing

caps in the conventional manner. It is impossible to fit them incorrectly.

Oil them. 6 Install the main bearing caps. Note the number stamped on their

backs. They should obviously be fitted in order - No 1 is the timing

end.

before installing any main bearing cap bolts. If all looks good and

fits well, as it should, proceed by Alfa Romeo describe these bolts as 'lubetorque screws' - fit them in

the normal way and then tighten them to the

setting. Now fit the

caps through the sides of the crankcase. Again, tighten these in a

diagonal pattern to the specified torque wrench setting. The strength

of the crankcase design structure relies on the proper installation of

the main bearing caps in this way. Now check that the crankshaft

rotates smoothly when turned by hand - it may be stiff but it should

turn smoothly.

7 Now check crankshaft end float by inserting a 0.25mm feeler blade

with

engine paint?

do not

leave

until

to the end of the

oil, once

No 2 in the middle and No 3 at the flywheel end. Fit all three

you

have

'side

cleaned

brace'

'clean

enough to eat your lunch

If so, do it now and

the

engine

assembled.

crankshaft.

them

bolts - these hold the main bearing

You

their

fitting

the main bearing cap bolts.

wait

will

need

protective

specified

top,

an oil can

until

dry

before

heat

the

film

(before

torque wrench

gear

Chapter

1/Engine

between one side of a thrust washer half and the adjacent crankshaft web.

If you can movement then end float is too much. If the crankshaft has just been reground, you have not fitted the correct oversize thrust washers. If it has not been reground then you should disassemble the crankcase completely and have the rear main journal shoulders ground So that oversize thrust washers can be fitted.

8 If you feel that end float is outside the limits mentioned seek the advice of the company who have worked on your engine or your bearing supplier, or of course go to your Alfa Romeo agent.

Fig. 1.6. Position the gear so that the start of a tooth is at an angle

36 Pistons and connecting rods - reassembly and replacement

insert

the

feeler

blade

and

there

still a little

- 22/26° to the centre line of the dowel

'a'

6 When every ring has been checked and the gaps made correct

rings should be assembled to the piston to prevent them being up with other rings which will be fitted to other bores. Fit the b< scraper ring first placing it over the top of the piston and spreadi ends.

Move

down

the

from

snagging

to be fitted is the lower compression ring and this only goes on o

way up. The top course, means that the ring is the top one on the piston. The top compression either way up on the piston. When all the rings are in position in their grooves, try and arrange the gaps to be equally spaced the piston. Place the gap of the oil control ring over an undrilled portion of the groove. Obviously, if the gaps of all the rings are straight line there

loss

7 Now fit the big-end bearing shells to the connecting rod and t

end

8 Oil the shells and the cylinder bores, the crankpins and the

rings. 9 Install the piston/connecting rod assembly through the cylinder bore. You will need to turn the crankshaft so that the appropriate journal is ready to mate up with the connecting rod.

It is impossible to fit the connecting rod incorrectly to the

Fit one bank of cylinders first, then the other. You must use a

piston ring compressor to enable easy fitment of the piston and

its rings into a bore. The photograph shows how this is done. As

soon as one connecting rod is fitted to its journal fit the big-end

cap and insert the big-end bolts, tighten them

go onto the next connecting rod.

10 When all four connecting rods are installed and bolted up tight you are ready to tighten them all down to the specified torq wrench setting, once you have obtained a 0.15mm feeler blade. A you between the big-end cap and one of the webs of the crankshaft side of it. This will ensure that all is correctly aligned while you tightening that particular connecting rod.

Check now that it is possible to turn the crankshaft, pistons ar

connecting rods - this

ring,

that

point.

cap.

torque down

in the

edge

which

will

each

piston a little

grooves

of the

ring

is the

be a

much

big-end

wifl

be difficult but should be possible.

over

which

will

last

one to go on,

greater

bolt,

you

at a

time, it

will

marked

tendency

must place

taking

pass.

'top'

then

finger

and

can be

for

tight and the

the

care

to pr

The

this,

fitti

aroui

compressk

releva

journ<

fingi

feeler

bla

eii

1 If you have found it necessary to replace pistons and are therefore faced with the task of refitting the pistons to the connecting rods you should now read Section 27. You cannot professional help. 2 Fitting the connecting rods, therefore big-end bearings, must be undertaken with the pistons already fitted. They must obviously have their piston rings fitted. 3

Before

ring grooves in the piston are completely clean and free of carbon deposits. A piece of old, broken piston ring is a useful tool for doing this, but make sure that the sharp edge is not permitted to gouge out any pieces of metal. Check also that the specified gap between the edge of the new piston ring and the groove is correct. 4 All rings must be fitted from the top of the piston. To get the new

rings into position involves spreading them sufficiently to clear the diameter of the piston itself and then moving them down over the existing grooves into their appropriate positions. Care must be taken

to avoid straining them to a point where they could break. A piece

of of guiding the ends of the rings over the grooves to prevent them

inadvertently dropping in, rather than passing over each groove. 5 Before fitting the rings to the piston it is important to check that the end gap matches the cylinder bore into which they will eventually

be are about 44mm below the top surface of the top of the bore. Then

measure the gap. If the gap is too large you have either got the wrong

piston rings or the cylinder bores are worn more than you had anticipated. a piece of material from the end of the ring. The gap may be increased

to the correct specification by clamping the end of the ring in a vice

so that a very small portion of the end projects above the top of the vice. Then use a fine file to take off the material in very small

quantities at a time. Do not clamp the ring so that the end being

filed projects too far

off while the

thin

fitted.

fitting

shim steel

Push

the

If the gap is too

filing

new

piston

or an old

feeler

rings down

above

the vice jaws or it may easily be snapped

is being done.

rings

the

small then

to the old

gauge

bores

do-it-yourself

pistons,

blade

is a

using

the

will

but must seek

make

very useful

piston

until

necessary

sure

means

the

they

remove

37 Rear crankcase cover - replacement

1 If you have gone to the trouble to recondition the engine or found it necessary to dismantle it, you should always fit new oil s It is like an insurance policy. 2

Prise

out the old oil

damage the housing surface.

3 Grease the inside and outside of the new seal and tap it gently

the housing. Note the arrow of direction on the new seal. This ens

that

you fit the face inwards, towards the centre of the engine. 4 Replace the 5 Carefully place the end cover onto the crankcase. It is best to the crankcase on its end. You should use a new gasket and gasket cement on both surfaces. There are six bolts which should be fitte now to hold the cover on before the flywheel is fitted. These are obviously in the centre of the cover. Tighten them progressively.

38 Flywheel - replacement

1 Place the flywheel onto the crankshaft. It can position because the crankshaft end has an eccentric dowel. Fit six bolts. Again, if you 2 To tighten the bolts to the going to need to hold the crankshaft. The best way is to use the of a hammer inside the crankcase, wedged safely under one of the crankshaft webs. Two people will help here, one to tighten, the ot to hold the hammer and crankcase.

seal

'O'

seal

with a screwdriver.

the

right

way

ring

onvthe

can,

you are wise to

specified

careful

not to

round.

The

lips

of the

seal

main oilway of the end cover.

only

fit in one

fit

new bolts.

torque wrench setting you

shou

sfi

35.2 Cleanliness is essential

35.5

Push

the

shell

around this

way

35.3 Three main bearings are used because the 35.4 Although the crank is installed the thrust

crank is short washers are well visible

35.6a

Note the number on the cap

35.6b

Note the serrated mating face

35.6c

Torque

these

brace bolts not shown here

bolts first, then

36.10a Fit the right cap to the right rod

the six

36.8 Now oil the shell before fitting

36.10b

Fit all four, then torque them. Note

alignment instruction

36.9 Use a proper piston ring compressor

37.3a

This is the right way round

«tt

37.3b

Note the arrow direction. Read the text 37.4 Always use a new

Chapter

1/Engine

'0'

ring. Never skimp

37.5a

Stick the gasket to the block

37.5b Lower it carefully and straight

39.2

New gasket, cement and cleanliness

39 Front

2 Use a new gasket and coat each surface with a smear of gasket

Then tighten them all diagonally. Again check that it is possible to turn

40 Water pump and pulley - replacement

1 Whilst it will have proven difficult to remove the water pump, it is easy to replace it. Always replace it without the pulley fitted. Use a

crankcase

Install

done in the rear crankcase cover described in Section 37. Remember you are same through-bolts for its mounting.

cement. Oil the oil seal and install the cover. 3 Finger tighten all the bolts, including those for the engine mounting.

the crankshaft.

a new oil seal in the front crankcase cover, just as you have

going

cover - replacement

need

the

front

end

mounting

38.1 One bolt is installed. Torque all six when they are finger tight

40.1 Ease the pump body carefully 40.2 We fitted the pulley later, but here it is

well

for

this

uses

the

39.1 This is the right way round

new gasket and smear gasket cement to each surface. 2 Fit the tighten progressively. 3 Now you can fit the water pump pulley. Push on the pulley and then start the three set screws and washers. Again tighten

41 Cylinder heads and camshafts - reassembly and replacement

1 to assemble the various integral components. But even before this it is suitable to fit the crankshaft belt pulley and the two belt tensioners. 2 Fit to the crankshaft the inner belt guide (a large smooth shim), the

left hand or inner camshaft belt drive pulley, the spacer and then the

right hand or outer camshaft belt drive pulley. Now press on the crankshaft to alternator/water pump pulley. Hold the crankshaft with

the

and tighten the nut and washer. Tighten this to the specified torque

wrench setting.

Before

shaft

water

fitting

of a

pump

either

hammer

and

start

the

four

set

the

cylinder

heads

previously described when

screws

and

camshafts

washers.

progressively.!

it is

fitting

necessary

the

flywheel

Then

3 Refitting the two belt tensioners is tricky because of the strength of the tensioner springs. It is not possible to fit them in their wrong locations. Do not tighten them down but simply

body, the spring, the washers and the lock nut. See the photograph for positions. 4

*£ 1 seal

of their disassembly. See Section 15. Care, oiled bushes, a new oil now

buckets

is a Tighten the camshaft so that it does not twist. 5 Now The procedure is an exact reverse sequence to their disassembly

Chapter

finger

that they hold together. The assembly order is tensioner pulley

Assembly

and new

given in Section 31. 6 You should now fit the camshaft housings to the cylinder heads It is much easier to do it in this fashion than to assemble the single components once the heads are attached to the crankcase. 7

Using camshaft tappet four progressively to the 8

Refit until the semi-circular mark on the flywheel is opposite the pointer on the

Dead

Place its top side. 10 Rotate the camshaft in the appropriate camshaft housing - the one you are about to camshaft

Now place that cylinder head onto the crankcase. Check that the

you fit and start the cylinder head bolts on that side. If possible use new cylinder head bolts. Tighten them now progressively in the sequence camshaft head

12 in the second housing and fit the second cylinder head using the

same

13 There should now be a near completed engine of some weight

and width. Continue to support it carefully on wooden blocks.

of the

camshafts

gaskets

have

two

installed.

dowelled

to the

reassemble

before

a new

housing

buckets

fixing nuts

crankcase

the

rear

Centre.

the new

aligns

open

valves

shown

housing nuts

bolts

to the

Leave

the

method just described.

camshafts

Fit the

fit.

Press

specified

installing

gasket,

to its

are

and

tighten

you

left bank

cover:

Check

head gasket

with

that

specified

position

and

on the

the

each

cylinder

installed

washers

these

will

cylinder

the

piston

through

fit

the

head

Fig.

1.7.

of the

into

their

housings

gasket cement

and

housings

drive

pulley

torque

valves

and

complete

with

gasket cement each side,

their

onto

nuts.

have

in No 1

the

onto

- so that the mark on the rear flange of the

mark

on the

do not

Finally

previously

torque

crankshaft

are

essential.

ready

each camshaft.

and

wrench

head.

Once to head

start

setting,

springs

into

component

course, make sure

correct

the

double

bore

wrench

place.

locating

you

have

check

first.

Rotate

bore

should

that

this

the

crankcase

rear camshaft flange

foul a piston

check

the

described.

setting.

as it is,

to fit

the

studs

tightness

tighten them

is an

exact reversal

You

with

the

The

bolt

and

carefully

the

cylinder

to the

fit

Install

and

fitted

the

tightness here.

the

crankshaft

now be at Top

is so.

- it is

marked

in the

crankcase

of the

Tighten

the

align

the

should

tappet

pulley

washer.

holding

heads.

crankcase.

the

relevant

the

only

the

then

heads

for

support.

cylinder

camshaft

1/Engine

425

Fig.

1.7.

The cylinder head torque tightening sequence

Fig. 1.8 Camshaft driving belt tension adjustment

/ and 3 cylinders belt is

lobes touching the respective valves. 2 and 4 cylinders belt is adjusted

using the same procedure for that bank

adjusted

when that camshaft has none of its

42 Camshaft belts and valve timing 1

Check

again

that

No 1

piston

is at

Make

sure

that

the

aligned

just described 3 Fit the inner camshaft belt over the various pulleys having slackened the

tensioner. ing fashion. Ensure that the driving side, ie, not the side affected by the belt

tensioner and

lock

its check If it

an unlikely occurrence).

Repeat

remember to keep No 1 piston

valves 5

Rotate the cam lobes on one side are not touching their tappets. Slacken the tensioner further and repeat the operations on the other side. 6

Turn of rotation, then repeat the operations in paragraph 5. This time the tensioner 7 Bring No 1 piston to TDC on the firing stroke and check once more that the camshaft timing marks are aligned (Fig.

fixing nut.

should

is,

the

engine the

on No 1

the

fixing nut,

the

crankshaft

fixing nuts should

camshaft marks

Actually

fit it

taut.

Now

That

made

- see

mounting procedure cylinder should

crankshaft

then

for the

in the

lightly

two or

Section

into

allow

camshaft

Fig.

flange should

TDC.

on the

left

tensioner

'timed'.

be not

modified

bank

it.

Turn

in the

to the

specified

1.9).

hand bank

grooves

tension

(One

camshaft

rotation

the

normal

41.

the

appropriate

the

belt

is now

1.10, S should

right

hand

Top Dead Centre (TDC). Both

closed.

normal

direction

retighten

three

full

turns

tightened

are

in the

further

less

than

until

it is.

but

until

crankshaft

direction

torque.

follow-

the

9mm.

belt,

This

all

Valve timing is correct when No 1 piston is on compression (TDC, both valves pointer, also when the timing marks cut on the camshaft journals are in line with those on the

closed)

and the timing mark T aligns with the reference

journal

bearings.

Fig. 1.10. Camshaft belt tightness, S - 9 mm

8 On engines which have covered a considerable mileage, the tensioner springs may not provide sufficient tension by themselves. In this case

it is permissible to move the tensioner by hand to provide additional tension before finally tightening the fixing nut. A belt which is too slack may slip; a belt which is too tight will hum or whine.

43 Tappet clearance adjustment

1 For an overhead camshaft design the Alfasud engine is brilliant in

its simplicity of tappet clearance adjustment. You require two sets of feeler blades, an Allen key of the appropriate size and a solid punch - a

pin punch of the appropriate size. The feeler blades are used to check the measurement, the Allen key is used to adjust the clearance and the punch is used to lock the tappet buckets so that they do not rotate.

Chapter

1/Engine

2 If the engine is in the car, remove the camshaft housing covers and

extract

the oil

from

the

or similar item. 3 Rotate the crankshaft to bring both valves on any one cylinder to the fully closed position (cam lobes not touching the tappets). Insert the Allen key in the cross-drilling between a pair of cams and gently rotate the camshaft back and forth until the Allen key will enter the screw on the tappet bucket. (Depending on the length of the Allen

it may be necessary to shorten one of its arms in order that it will 4 Lock the pin punch between the tappet under adjustment and the adjacent tappet to stop them rotating whilst adjustment takes There is a flat on each tappet for this purpose. 5 Place a feeler blade of the appropriate thickness (see under

each be a firm sliding fit. Adjust if necessary by rotating the Allen key until the clearance is correct. Note that the clearances differ for inlet and exhaust on each side are Nos 1 and 4, inlet valves are Nos 2 and 3.

6 Remove all the tools and attempt the next valve. Do not leave anything still in the tappet/camshaft housing once you have finished. 7 Using new camshaft housing cover gaskets and gasket cement on I both surfaces, install the covers. Before you do this pour in enough clean engine oil into the housing to just cover the camshaft until its level is about half way.

44 Oil pump - replacement

Turn do not damage the inlet manifold studs. 2 With No 1 piston still at TDC fit the oil pump in the following manner - no gasket is used. Oil the pump spindle. 3

Rotate on the crankshaft, the slot in the drive coupling is at an angle 'B' (see Fig. 1.13) of 45°. Note the offset offset through the distributor location, effectively from the top of the engine.

cam

valves.

Counting

the

engine

the

pump spindle

camshaft housings using

lobe

of the

tappet under adjustment.

from

the

over,

and

support

eased

such

into

front

of the

it on

a way so

mesh

with

-you

are obviously looking at the

an old

engine, exhaust

blocks

wood

that

when

the

drive

poultry

Specifications!

The

the

gear

blades

that

drive

on the

baster

key,

fit).j

place.

shoutj

valves

youj

gear

41.2a

Note the order of fitment, and the key

and ...

41.3b

Tension the wheel, now tighten the nut

41.2b

41.3c

pump pulley is

... then fit the pulley, washer and nut

This shows proper location (the water

off)

41.3a

41.4a

The tensioner wheel and spring

A new oil seal is

fitted

g covers and

jultry

baster

cylinder to

>ets).

Insert

and

gently II enter the the Allen

key,

will

fit),

lent and the

takes place.

pecifications)

blades should

len

key

until

inlet and

laust

valves

41.4b

Carefully insert the camshafts to their

mountings

41.4c

Note the location of the buckets

41.4d

Now the end cover and gasket

ot leave ve

finished.

:ement

on in enough ft until its

so that you

(lowing

drive gear

r on the

(see

ting at the

le top of

'»*

mm^mmtKfm

41.4e

Put the pulley on before the housing is

fixed

the

cylinder guide

.*"•?**

41.5a

Put the right valve into the right valve

right

41.5b

Note the oil seal on the valve stem on the

iring

41.5c

Spring seat, both springs and the valve cap

41.8

Lower the cylinder heads this way

41.5d

Place the

is compressed cylinder head

41.10

Note the two marks on the camshaft

and its housing

collets

carefully when the spring

41.6

This illustrates how the housing

42.3 The inner camshaft belt

first...

fits

the

Chapter

1/Engine

42.4 ... then the outer, as shown here

hOUS'ngS

cov

bef°re

f 'ttin9

43.3 We made up a special Allen key for

tappet

adjustment rotating

the

44'3

Check

the

sition

P°

of the

spindle

constantly 45.2

Fig. 1.12. Tappet clearance

- in cross-section

G = intake

G = exhaust

0.35-0.40

0.45

• 0.50 mm

43.4 We used a steel punch to stop the

The

sump

gasket

cemented

brackJ

Fig.

1.11.

Tappet clearance adjustment

Special tappet locking tool

2 Special tappet adjusting tool - an Allen key

4 Tighten the two sizes of fixing set screws to different torques as described in Chapter 12.

45 Sump - replacement

1 Once the oil pump is fitted you should fit the sump.

2 Use a new gasket and smear gasket cement on both surfaces.

Refit and start all the screws and washers. Then tighten all

progressively until the sump is located firmly and unstressed.

46 Distributor - replacement

1 Make sure No 1 piston is still at TDC.

Fig.

1.13.

'B' -

34<>

if the

angle

given

Figure

1.6 is

22/26°

when

oil pump spindle is meshed with the gear on the crankshaft

2 Rotate the distributor shaft so as to align the rotor arm with the

reference mark on the distributor body.

Insert

the distributor into the rear cover housing and engage the

driving coupling's dog and the offset slot. 4 Obviously you should check the oil ring on the outer distributor

shaft is in good condition before fitting the distributor. 5 Install the distributor clamp bolt on the housing and tighten. For the time being tighten this clampbracket to the distributor body. You should be somewhere near the correct ignition timing when you come to start the engine. See Chapter 4 for final ignition timing.

47 Fuel pump - replacement

———————————————

1 Replacement of the fuel pump is no real problem. If the engine is

the

Chapter

1/Engine

op the brackets

one which has covered considerable mileage, say over 60,000 then you should automatically consult your Alfa Romeo agency and purchase a new fuel pump actuating rod. See Chapter 3. 2 Place a new gasket over the locating studs. 3

Place

the fit over the fuel pump having oiled the actuating rod along its whole length. Start the attaching nuts and tighten them to the specified torque.

48 Alternator and drive belt - replacement and tension

1 Fit the alternator belt tension adjusting mounting flange to the crankcase. holes 2 Now fix the alternator onto the adjusting bracket and the crankcase on the opposite side. Tighten each bolt finger tight only. 3 Fit over the drive belt onto the crankshaft, water pump and alternator

actuating

You

just

above

pulleys. Tension

rod

will

find

that

the

crankshaft pulley

through

this fits

the

belt

the

and is

on the

opening

located

moving

onto

front

the

cam. Then

onto

the two

cover.

alternator

until

bolt

the

belt tension amounts to a sag of 15mm at the centre point of the run between the crankshaft pulley and the alternator pulley. Tighten first the tension bolt on the tension bracket. Then tighten the pivot bolt on the opposite side of the alternatqr.

49 Ancillary sender units, oil filter and other parts

1 Replace the dipstick into its housing. 2 Replace the water temperature sender unit. This is the unusual unit which is fitted at right angles to the rear of the left hand cylinder head

adjacent to the engine number plate. This unit is in two parts but is

obviously fitted. Do not overtighten - make sure the washer is fitted.

3 The other sender unit is for oil pressure. On the Alfasud this

is fitted to the centre at the front, on the top of the crankcase. On the Alfasud Tl it is fitted to the rear crankcase cover close to the oil filter.

each case you must fit the washer and not overtighten. 4 Fit a new oil filter. Grease the internal sealing ring with some light grease and screw in hard by hand.

when the

Vith the

jge

the

ributor

46.3 Note the

48.2 The pivot bolt is the lower one, well shown here

'0'

ring on the spindle

47.3 Actuating rod and gasket ready for the pump

48.3 The proper location of all the components 49.2 Note the exact position of thi

48.1 Mounting the bracket on the front cover

unit

ten. For

\>dy.

You

'ou

come

ngme is

49.3 Do not overtighten and use the appropriate washer

49.4 Hand tighten the

filter

only. Grease the seal

49.6a

Fit this way with the bolts installed as

shown

Chapter

1/Engine

49.6b Always keep the hose fitted

49.6c Putting the hose onto the thremostat housing is not easy installed)

(once

the thermostat is

...».iahiMMKdii»ii

50.2 This photo illustrates how the manifold is 50.3 These lifting pieces are an essential lowered. Some components would not normally

be on it

&r&

••".,

51 Carburettor replacement

1 Use a new carburettor gasket. 2 Place the carburettor onto the studs and then start the fixing nuts. 3 Tighten these progressively. 4 Install the fuel pump to carburettor pipe and use hose clips. 5 Install the distributor cap and the plug leads, clipping the plug leads onto their guides on the inlet manifold, around the carburettor.

fitment

50.1 Do not use any cement here

51.4a

Pipe on the

fuel

pump ...

51.4b

... then push onto the carburettor

5 You should now fit the coolant take off casting. This fits on the top

of the crankcase near the centre. Use a new gasket and smear both sides with gasket cement. 6 Check with the photograph and bolt on the component with its small hose already installed. Tighten the flange progressively. 7 Install the correct spark plugs into the cylinder heads. Check the specification, it is critical on this engine.

8 Do not install the distributor cap yet.

50 Inlet manifold - replacement

1 Place new gaskets to each of the cylinder heads, over the studs. 2 Fit the manifold down onto the gaskets. Push the small hose on the coolant take off fitting on the manifold. Install the proper hose clip. 3 Add the lifting bridge pieces to the top of the inlet manifold over each cylinder head. Now install and start all the nuts onto the fixing studs. Tighten progressively to the

flange

out of the way and then persuade it onto its

specified

torque wrench setting.

Engine replacement in the car

52 Engine attachment to the gearbox

Install

2 Attach the gearbox to the engine in the conventional manner. You

will

sequence to its removal as given in Section 6. Watch the gearbox primary shaft - do not hang the gearbox on this!

53 Engine replacement in the car

the removal procedure but the following points should be borne in mind. Refer also to Chapter

1 The engine and gearbox have been removed together, they should be reassembled and replaced together. This takes care of the possible difficulties one may encounter fitting the gearbox input shaft into the clutch. 2 When raising the engine into the car make sure first that it is suspended at the correct attitude. It is difficult and possibly dangerous to 3 Always raise the engine very slowly and watch it all round all the way. It is easy to wrench out wire and pipes due to being in too much

the clutch (see Chapter 5).

need

the

help

of a

Generally

have

speaking,

alter

the

angle

second person. Proceed

the replacement of the engine is a reversal of

12.

tilt

whilst

it is

in an

suspended.

exact

reverse

Chapter

of a

hurry

and not

noticing

these things when

they

flip

back

in the way - as they always seem to do. 4 If the engine will not go where it

should,

look and find out why. Do not try and force anything. 5

Always

contact

fit a new oil

points,

and

fill

filter,

with

air

fresh

cleaner

element, spark plugs

oil and

coolant.

and

6 Replace all the suspension and steering parts as well as the driveshafts before attempting to start the engine. Always lower the

car to the ground and use the following check list, as well as reading the relevant parts in the rest of this book concerning those components

which

you

have

had to

touch

remove

the

engine

but

which actually 7

Once

retracked

engine

components, before attempting

the

engine

has

started

at the

front

wheels

and all is

before undertaking

well

you

any

start must have

regular use.

the

are not

car.

the car

8 The following check list should ensure that the engine starts safely

and

with

little

or no

delay

and

that

the car is

ready

move:

1/Engine

to earth secure.

p) Starter motor cable to battery connected and

q) Generator leads

r) Oil pressure

electric fan cables

connected,

warning,

connected,

coolant temperature sender unit and

s) Battery charged and secure in t) All loose tools u) Clutch slave cylinder v) Gear change linkage

removed

refitted,

replaced,

from the engine compartment

w) Driveshafts refitted to transmission unit and

speedometer cable replaced. See Chapter 7.

x) Handbrake cables, linkage and engine mountings

y) Brakes bled.

Leave the bonnet off and the lights unconnected for the initial

start but replace before venturing on to the road!

position,

and bled if

secure,

necessary,

greased,

secure,

and

a) Fuel pipes to fuel pump and carburettor connected

and tight.

Coolant

hoses

radiator

and

Coolant drain plugs shut and

Cooling system filled and bled.

heater connected

tigh

and

e) Sump drain plug screwed and tigh t. i) Oil filter cartridge tight.

g) Oil in sump and dipstick replaced.

h) Oil in transmission unit and plug tight i) L T wires connected to the distributor.

}}

Spark

plugs

clean

and

tight k) Valve rocker clearance set. I) HT leads all connected and secure.

Distributor rotor arm fitted.

n) Choke and accelerator cable fitted and working through

their total

range,

o) Earthing cable from engine block to battery and battery

55 Fault diagnosis - engine

Note:

When

and follow it through. It will take less time in the

investigating

diagnosed

quickly.

Symptom

Engine

will

hot

turn

switch is operated

any

over

starting

and

event

the

when starter

uneven running faults

long

ignition

and

fuel

systems

Reason/s

Flat battery Bad battery connections

run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not

Bad connections at solenoid switch and/or starter motor Starter motor jammed

Defective solenoid Starter motor defective

tight

do not be

must

54 Starting engine and

1 As soon as the engine starts, run it steadily at a fast tick-over for

several ped pipes and wires. Watch the instrument and warning lights and stop the engine at the first indications of anything nasty! 2 Check with Chapters 2 (Cooling), 3 (Carburation) and 4 (Ignition) for final tuning. 3

Runnmg

while stiff and new. Do not run it harshly and do not labour it.

4 Retighten the cylinder head bolts after the car has covered two or

three hundred miles. This should be done with the engine cold, by

slackening each bolt through a quarter turn and then immediately

retightening it to the specified torque. There is no need to drain the

cooling system if this procedure is followed. An adaptor may well be

needed

tempted

checked first before

into

running-in

minutes

and

look

all

round

for

signs

leaks

and

in is a matter of taste. Simply do not abuse the engine

order

gain

access

to the

bolts

with a torque

snap

diagnosis.

assuming

Start from

any

the

further investigation

beginning

of the

needs

check

Remedy

Check that battery is fully charged and that connections are clean and tight.

Rock car back and forth with a gear engaged.

If ineffective remove starter. Remove starter and check solenoid. Remove starter and overhaul.

loose

wrench.

normally

to be

undip-

procedure made.

Engine

turns

fire and run

Engine

starts

Lack of power

over

normally

but

runs unevenly

but

fails

and

misfires

No spark at plugs No fuel reaching engine Too much fuel reaching the engine (flooding)

Ignition

and/or

fuel

system faults

Incorrect valve clearances

Burnt out valves

Ignition and/or fuel system faults

Incorrect valve clearances

Burnt out valves Worn out pistons or cylinder bores

Check ignition system according to procedures

given in Chapter 4. Check fuel system according to procedures given in Chapter 3. Slowly depress accelerator pedal to floor and

keep it there while operating starter motor

until engine fires. Check fuel system if

necessary as described in Chapter 3.

Check the ignition and fuel systems as though

the engine had failed to start.

Check and reset clearances.

Remove cylinder heads and examine and

overhaul as necessary.

Check the ignition and fuel systems for correct

ignition timing and carburettor settings.

Check and reset the clearances.

Remove cylinder heads and examine and overhaul as necessary. Remove cylinder heads and examine pistons and cylinder bores. Overhaul as necessary.

Chapter

1/Engine

Excessive oil consumption

Excessive mechanical noise from engine

Unusual vibration

Engine backfires or overruns

Low oil

pressure

Oil leaks from crankshaft oil seal, cam cover gasket, oil pump, or oil filter Worn piston rings or cylinder bores resulting in oil being burnt by engine (Smoky exhaust is an indication) Worn valve guides

Wrong valve clearances Worn crankshaft bearings Worn cylinders (piston slap)

Misfiring on one or more cylinders Loose mounting bolts

Faulty fuel circuit Oil level low or incorrect grade

Oil pressure sender faulty Oil pressure gauge Oil pump pick-up screen clogged Oil

pump

Crankshaft bearings worn

or pressure relief valve defective

faulty

Identify source of leak and repair as Fit new rings or rebore cylinders and fit new

pistons, depending on degree of wear. Remove cylinder heads and recondition valve

stem bores and valves as necessary. Adjust valve clearances.

Inspect

and overhaul where necessary.

Check ignition system. Check tightness of bolts and condition of flexible mountings.

Check fuel system. Top up or change oil

Renew Renew Remove sump and clean Repair or renew

Overhaul as necessary

appropriate!

Chapter 2 Cooling and heating systems

For

modifications,

Contents

and information applicable to later

models,

see Supplement at end of manual

Antifreeze mixture ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 5

Cooling fan - general ... ... ... ... ... 13

Cooling system-draining Cooling

system - filling Cooling system - flushing Fault

diagnosis - cooling

General

description Heater - removal,

Specifications

and

investigation

heating

and

system

replacement

Cooling system

Type

Radiator

Type Filler cap relief pressure

Thermostat

Type

Coolant

capacity

(with

heater)

Fan

Type

Cut

in temperature

Cut out temperature

Warning

light

Warning

extinguishes

light comes

Antifreeze Quantity required to protect engine to minus 4°F (20°C)

on to

(from

indicate

cold)

overheating

Hoses - general Radiator and expansion chamber - removal,

cleaning and refitting

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting

Water pump - description

Water pump - removal and refitting

Water temperature

gauge-fault

Thermo-syphon with pump assistance

Corrugated

Ib/sq.

fin

in (0.9 Kg/sq. cm)

Bimetal spring

12.9 Imp pints (7.31 litres)

Electric thermostatically controlled

190-

196°F

180-172°F 110-120°F

(88-92°C) (82-78°C) (43-49°C)

220-228° F (104-108°C)

4.6 Imp pints (2.6 litres)

finding

inspection,

6 7 8 9

1 General description

The

engine

cooling

liquid

thermosyphon

The

system

principle,

pressurised

circulated round

assisted by a belt-driven impeller type pump.

and

sealed

that

the

system

boiling

on the

will

only occur

at abnormally high temperatures and so that there is no loss of coolant.

As the coolant heats up it expands and flows into the expansion

chamber,

which

fitted

therefore the

temperature,

with a blow-off

get too great. No coolant should ever be

valve

should

the

pressure,

and

lost as air pressure and not water pressure is vented because the

expansion

chamber

never

more than about

1/3

filled

with

coolant. As the coolant becomes cool it will flow back into the radiator under the vacuum principle.

The circuit also incorporates a thermostatically controlled valve

which

restricts

the

amount

water

passing

through

the

radiator

until the correct engine operating temperature is reached. This assists rapid warming up and keeps the engine at a constant running temperature regardless of ambient conditions.

The principle of operation is as follows. The water heated by the

engine rises out of the cylinder heads towards the thermostat which, if

cold,

is closed. It then diverts straight to the pump and thence back to

the engine via the heater (if open).

When

the

engine warms

up a

proportion

of the

warm water

will

pass via the thermostat valve to the top of the radiator down through which it will

pass

and

cool.

The

pump

will

bottom

of the

radiator

and

pass

then draw

back

to the

the

cold

water

engine (the

from

pump

the

has

two inlets). If the engine temperature should rise excessively the

thermostat valve will close off the

by-pass

outlet, thus directing all

water through the radiator.

It is important that the system is always sealed properly and that it is filled with the correct coolant which ideally is 50% antifreeze (glycol) and 50% distilled water. To maintain correct antifreeze properties and to safeguard against internal damage to the aluminium cylinder heads this mixture should be adhered to at all times. Because of the sealed system this mixture is safe during the whole year in any climate.

The Alfasud utilises a thermostatically controlled electric fan for cooling the radiator. The thermostatically controlled switch is in the lower half of the radiator.

Chapter

2/Cooling

and heating system

Fig.

2.1.

The cooling system circuit

Electric

fan

Thermostatic Radiator

Electric fan thermostat switch Drain plug (one for each bank of

cylinders)

Pump

Header tank

Cap with calibrated valve

Electric

Thermostat switch for coolant temperature warning light

Heater

valve

fan relay

5678

2 Cooling

1 The Alfasud is unconventional in terms of coolant draining. There is no radiator drain plug nor is there one in the crankcase. The coolant is

drained/through

2 To one under the bottom hose of the radiator and one under each of the cylinder heads. If it means placing the

jacking

expansion chamber. 3 Undo the two drain plugs, one roughly in the centre of each cylinder head, on the underside.

4 When coolant has stopped pouring from each plug, remove the

bottom radiator hose. This will allow for a thorough draining and enable proper flushing of the radiator alone. 5 The heater valve should, of course, be open all the time during the operation.

3 Cooling system - flushing

1 Every so often it is a good practice to flush out the system remove any loose sediment, and scale which may have accumulated. The time to do this is when the coolant is being drained. With the sealed system, however, the need for topping-up should be very infrequent so that the deposits of lime and so on, from regular addition of new water, are negligible. The need for flushing, therefore, is usually only caused by some other factor - such as a leak which allows air to enter the system and cause oxidisation or the use of an type which may cause corrosion. 2 To check the need for flushing remove the bottom hose and if the liquid colour, and full of solid particles, let it run out. If it clears as more runs out and the outflow is in no way restricted then there is no great problem. If, however, constant poking with a piece of wire is needed and the liquid continues very dirty then obviously a flush is

needed. 3 To flush out, simply leave the engine drain plugs open and after removing the radiator cap, run a hose through the system for about minutes (ordinary water is quite safe). If the plug openings show signs of blockage keep poking them out. If the blocking is persistent remove

system

drain

it up,

coming

fully,

this

out is

- draining

two

plugs,

find

three

will

help.

obviously very

one under each cylinder head.

receptacles

Remove

front

the cap

dirty,

of a

reasonable

of the car on ramps or

from

the

although

it can be a

size

and

cooling

antifreeze

place

system

of a

deep

the tap completely so that a larger orifice may permit the to clear itself. In some bad cases a reverse flush may help and this is easily done by bottom tank so 4 If the radiator flow is restricted sediment then no amount of proprietary chemical, suitable for aluminium heads, is needed Use t according to afterwards. If leaks proprietary radiator sealer radiator metal is obviously getting very thin in

Cooling

1 Make sure the cylinder head drain plugs are in and fixed properly Make sure all hoses are attached and secured with hose clips

Open the heater valve. Turn to 2 Fill the expansion chamber with the appropriate coolant until coolant

3 Start the engine and warm it up until you are sure the thermostat open. This orifice to in the

total then stop it and allow it to cool down. 4 Top-up again until coolant level is above the pointer inside expansion chamber and visible through the cap, run the engine again and check for correct function and leaks.

5 Antifreeze mixture

1 In climatic conditions where the ambient temperature is likely to drop below freezing point the use of antifreeze is essential. If the coolant is permitted to freeze in the car serious damage can result. 2 A good proprietary brand should be used and may be left in the cooling system for at least a year. All antifreeze solutions contain corrosion inhibitors which will keep the system in good condition whatever the climatic conditions. 3 The quantity of antifreeze which should be used for various levels of protection is given in the table below, expressed as a percentage of

removing

that

the

has,

suffered considerable chemical corrosion and that the

system - filling

reaches

the

will

cause

'vibrate'

system

the

radiator

it flows out

directions and make sure that the residue is fully

develop

after using a chemical cleaner, a

may

bottom

edge

the

level

greatly; it does, however, mean that the air

being

bled

and running the hose into the

Crf

the filler neck.

flushing

something other than loose will shift it and it is then that

cure them but the signs are that the

places.

'on'.

of the

filler

orifice.

of the

coolant

in the

out.

Let the

engine

orifice.

obstructic

properly

Leave

the cap

expansion

run a

Replace the filler

little

chamb trappei

longei

the

Chapter 2/Cooling and heating systems

system circuit

the cooling system capacity.

Antifreeze volume

10% 15%

20%

Protection to

-13°C(7°F)

-19°C(-3°F)

Spec,

1.017

1.024

1.032

gravity

4 Always be guided by the antifreeze manufacturers instructions,

however, as variations in strength do occur between products of different makes.

6 Radiator and expansion chamber -

and

refitting

removal,

inspection, cleaning

1 The radiator is easily removed. Drain it by taking off the expansion chamber

cap and

in a suitable receptacle. Remove the top hose, and

removing

the

bottom

radiator hose. Catch

overflow

the

coolant

pipe to the expansion chamber. 2

Disconnect

the

thermostatic switch

on the

radiator

pulling

off the electrical connectors. 3

Disconnect

the

cooling

fan

electrical connections

at the

joint. 4 Undo the centre top nut on the central mounting stud. This is the only radiator mounting. Pull the radiator towards the engine by about an inch at the top. This should help to free the rubber mountings and the

washers.

Now

carefully

lift

the

radiator

and

cooling

fan

complete and out. Retrieve bottom radiator seats. 5 The cooling fan is easily removed from the radiator shell by undoing

the four fan frame mounting screws. The thermostatic switch is equally simply removed by gently unscrewing it and retaining the soft washer beneath it.

6 Radiator repair is best left to a specialist but minor leaks may be

tackled

with a proprietary compound. 7 The radiator matrix may be cleared of flies by brushing with a soft brush or by hosing.

8 Flush the radiator as described in Section 3 according to its degree

of contamination. Examine and renew any hoses or clips which have deteriorated. 9

Replacement

is an

opposite procedure.

Refill

the

cooling

system

and bleed. 10 The expansion chamber on header tank is attached to the inner

ring by three self-tapping screws. It is, therefore, easily removed.

Check it regularly for leaks.

there

is any

doubt

that

the

expansion chamber

filler

is not functioning properly it should be replaced without hesitation.

7 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting

1 The thermostat is located on the left side of the engine and is located by looking at the radiator top hose and following it back to 1 engine. There is the thermostat. 2 To remove the thermostat disconnect the radiator top hose on th< engine. Undo the two nuts on the thermostat housing, remove and off the housing top. Inside is the thermostat which can be easily out. Expect to have a certain amount of coolant

flow

cooling system has been drained. 3 Do not treat the thermostat badly. It is quite delicate and needs careful handling to encourage long life. 4 To test whether the thermostat functions as it should, suspend it i a pan of water with a piece of string. Then, with a thermometer in th water (not touching the pan) note at what temperature it starts to open. This should

be 81 -

85°C.

Check

that

the

thermostat again (after cooling naturally). Should it fail on any of these checks must be renewed. Note that the operation of the thermostat is not instantaneous so allow sufficient time when testing it. Should the

thermostat have stuck open it would have been apparent when the housing cover was removed. 5 Replacement of the thermostat is a reversal of the removal procedure. Ensure that the mating faces of the two flanges are clean and use a new gasket. It is a sensible insurance to use a sealing compound also such as

'Hermetite'.

If the housing is very deeply corroded it should be renewed. 6 Always top-up the cooling system and bleed if necessary.

8 Water pump - description

The water pump is of conventional impeller type, driven by a belt. The impeller chamber is built into, and forms part of, the timing cover. The water pump detachable body is of die-cast aluminium in which runs the shaft. The shaft is fitted with bearings which are a

pressure

eas

pick

out unless the

closes

drive

one

Fig. 2.2. The radiator and cooling fan

1 Radiator

2 Cushion strip 3 Locating rubber 4 Sender unit

5 Fan locating bush 6 Fan and motor (2 types) 7 Top locating bush

Fig. 2.3. Hoses and expansion chamber

/ Expansion chamber 2 4 types of hose clips with their application

—3

/ Water pump

Water

pump gasket

Fig. 2.4. Water pump and drive belt

3 Pivot bolt 4 Adjusting quadrant

5 Drive belt

6 Drive pulley

Alfa Romeo sud 1984 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual