
MOTOR CYCLE 19 MARCH 1964
335
SPECIALS
for
AJS
and
MATCHLESS
ON all models with a gauze filter in the base of
the oil tank feeding into a large-bore plastic pipe,
care should be taken to see that the filter is well
up inside the tank.
After lengthy service it is possible for the filter
to work down in the pipe and restrict the rate of flow.
Cure is to replace the plastic pipe.
On rear
wheel-drive
speedometers,
a loose
bearing
locking ring
will ruin the
bearings
■ An elusive oil leak at the
rear of the cylinder on a sixfifty twin may not be due to
a defective base gasket. The
leak occurs between the
crankcase halves where there
is high pressure in an oil
gallery. A build-up of carbon
in the oilways from the
gallery can cause the pressure
to rise excessively.
The oilways should be cleared
and great care taken to remake
the crankcase joint properly.
Normally the joint is metalto-metal, but on a machine
which has covered a substantial
mileage it might be necessary
to use a gasket cut from thin
paper to give a better seal.
■ On models with rear-wheel
drive for the speedometer,
occasionally check to see that
the bearing locking ring is tight.
The speedometer is driven off
the adjuster ring. If the locking
ring is not home, the effect will
be to tighten the adjuster and
seize the bearings.
■ Some owners of the twins
conscientiously change the
engine oil and clean the oil-tank
filter, but overlook the filter
which can be extracted from the
front of the crankcase on the
left.
This should be removed and
washed in petrol as a routine
job.
■ Valve-spring strength of CSR
six-fifties from 1960 onward Is
on the high side. Lighter
springs reduce wear on the
cams and followers without any
adverse effects such as valve
float.
Suitable substitutes are BSA
Gold Star springs with which
pre-1960 AMC spring caps and
collets should be used.
■ A slipping clutch on a model
with the heavyweight AMC gear
box can often be overcome by
fitting springs from the preAMC Norton clutch.
These springs are slightly
stronger; lever action will be
heavier but not excessive.
■ Lubrication of the rear-fork.
pivot is through an oilway
closed by a screw on the righthand end.
The job is made easier if a
grease nipple is fitted in place
of the screw and oil pumped in
with a gun. In addition, the
nipple acts as a non-return
valve.
■ Sometimes the fork top
covers (carrying the headlamp brackets) develop an
annoying rattle. A way of
curing this is to use two
leather washers of the type
which are normally placed
be t wee n t h e m a i n f o r k
springs and bottom yoke.
The top yoke should be
loosened and eased up a shade
to give room to slip the washers
(which have been cut radially),
one between the base of
each cover and the upper face
of the bottom yoke.
Finally, the top yoke should
be tightened down to pinch the
washers.
■ Because the oil compartment
on two-fifties and light threefifties is on the small side, oil
changing at 1,500-mile intervals
(instead of the recommended
3,000 miles) is worth while.
Remember to clean the felt
filter at the same time.
If, on these models, frequent
failure of the headlamp dip
filament is experienced, try a
30/30-watt bulb instead of the
standard 30/24-watt.
Don't
overlook the
crankcase
oil filter
(arrowed)
when
changing
engine oil
on Matchless
and AJS twins
Replacing
the screw
indicated
with a grease
nipple makes
lubrication
of the rear-
fork pivot
easier