Ajs 1951 AJS Instuction and Maintenace 16M 16MS 16MC 16MCS 18 18S 18C 18CS Ajs 1951 AJS Instuction and Maintenace 16M 16MS 16MC 16MCS 18 18S 18C 18CS

MAINTENANCE

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MANUAL

AND

INSTRUCTION

BOOK

for

195 1

350

SPRING FRAME AND RIGID

SINGLE CILINDER MODELS

PRICE 2/6 NETT

M O T O R C Y C L E S

Proprietors: ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLE LIMITED

PLUMSTEAD • LONDON • S.E.18

c.c.

A•J

A J•S

and

•S

•

500

c.c.

EDITION CM-15

WHEN CORRESPONDING REGARDING

SERVICE OR SPARE S

ALWAYS QUOTE

(

Including

all letters in it)

THIS ENABLES US TO IDENTIFY THE MACHINE

EACH SERIAL OF FR AM ES IS NUMBERED FROM ZERO

UPWARDS. THEREFORE THE QUOTATION OF A

FRAME NUMBER ONLY DOES NOT PERMIT A MACHINE

TO BE IDENTIFIED.

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MAINTENANCE MANUAL

AND INSTRUCTION BOOK

for

A • J • S

1 9 5 1

SINGLE CYLINDER MOTOR CYCLES

Compiled and Issued by the Manufacturers :

A • J • S MOTOR CYCLES

(Proprietors: ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLES LIMITED)

Registered Offices :

PLUMSTEAD ROAD, PLUMSTEAD
LONDON, S.E.18 .. ENGLAND

Nearest Station :

WOOLWICH ARSENAL

(Southern Region Railway)

Factories :

BURRAGE GROVE and MAXEY ROAD

PLUMSTEAD, S.E.18

Telegrams and Cables: "ICANHOPIT, WOL-LONDON"

Telephone : WOOlwich 1 22 3 (5 Lines)

Codes : A.B.C. 5th and 6th Edition ; Bentley's; and Private Codes

All correspondence to :—

A•J • S MOTOR CYCLES, PLUMSTEAD ROAD, LONDON, S.E.18

Price : TWO SHILLINGS and

SIXPENCE

EDITION CM-15

A—A

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1951 A•J•S MODELS

350 MODEL 16M RIGID FRAME
350 MODEL 16MS SPRING FRAME
350 MODEL 16MC COMPETITION RIGID FRAME
350 MODEL 16MCS COMPETITION SPRING FRAME

500 MODEL 18 RIGID FRAME
500 MODEL 18S SPRING FRAME
500 MODEL 18C COMPETITION RIGID FRAME
500 MODEL 18CS COMPETITION SPRING FRAME

350 — Bore 69 mm. Stroke 93 mm. Capacity 347 c.c.
500 — Bore 82·5 mm. Stroke 93 mm. Capacity 498 c.c.

Motorcycling is one of the most economical and pleasurable modes of
transport. It is our sincere wish that every " A . J . S " owner
should obtain, from his mount, the service, comfort and innumerable miles
of low-cost travel that we have earnestly endeavoured to build into it.

However, it must be remembered that, although a motor cycle is of simple

design and construction, it is, nevertheless, a highly specialised piece of

engineering. In consequence, it must be intelligently and efficiently

maintained in order to provide unfailing reliability.

In this book are non-technical instructions for carrying out all the mainten­ance operations likely to be called for in strenuous service and illustrations
are provided to assist. Neglect to make essential adjustments, only casual
attention to lubrication and the lack of periodical maintenance attention
will soon neutralise the best efforts of the designers and may bring needless

trouble to the owner.
We are always pleased to give " A . J . S " owners the full benefit

of our wide experience in matters relating to motor cycles of our manu­facture and elsewhere will be found details of the particulars that should

be given us when making such an enquiry.

A . J . S MOTOR CYCLES

INTRODUCTION

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2

1951

RIGID

16M and 18

1951

SPRING

16MS and 18S

1951

RIGID

COMPE T ITIO N

16MC and 18C

1951

SPRING

COMPETI T ION

16MCS and 18CS

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3

DATA

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Identity

Make
Models 350 c.c. 51/16M

Engine Number Scamped on left hand side of crankcase
Frame Number Stamped on seat lug of main frame, on right hand side (below the saddle)
Bore 350 c.c. Models—69 mm. (approx.) (2 F

Number of Cylinders (all models) One
Stroke All Models—93 mm. (approx.) (3·65625 in.)
E

… … … … … … … … … … … … …
… … … … … … … … … … …

500 c.c. 51/18

… … … … … … … …
… …

… … … … … … … …

… … … … … … … …

ngine capacity, in cubic centimetres 350 Models—51/16M, 51/16MS, 51/16MC and 51/16MCS—347

… … … … … … … … … …

500 Models—51/18, 51/18S, 51/18C and 51/18CS—498

500 c.c. Models—82·5 mm. (approx.) (34 in.)

A.J.S.

51/16MS
51/16MC
51/16MCS

51/18S
51/18C
51/18CS

in.)

Brake Liners

Length

6 s in.

Width

d

in.

Thickness

x

in.

Radius

3½ in.

Brake liner rivets

Diameter

in.

8

Length

a

in.

Material

Copper

Type

Tubular

Capacities

Location
Engine 350 c.c.

… … … … …

Engine 500 c.c.

… … … … …

ear box

G
Front fork (each side)
Rear leg (each leg)*
Rear wheel fork hinge bearing*
Fuel tank (Rigid and Spring frame)
Fuel tank (Competition)
Oil tank

… … … … … …

… … … … … …

*On Spring Frame Models only.

… … … …
… … … …

… … … …

… … …

… …

21·170 cub. in.
30·380 cub. in.

6½
3 fl. ozs.

3 gallons
2¼ gallons
4 pints

Carburetter

Type

… … … … … … … … … …

Main jet size (no air filter fitted)
Main jet size (air filter fitted)
Throttle valve size
Jet taper needle position

… … … … … … … …

… … … … … …
… … … … … …

… … … … … … …

Head

Tinmans No. 11

ritish

B

1 pint

fl.

ozs.

1½

f l.

ozs.

Quantity off

4 (2 per brake)

Quantity

per liner

6

Metric
347 c.c.

498 c.c.
568·2 c.c.

184·6 c.c.

85 c.c.

42·6 c.c.
13·638 litres
10·2285 litres

2·275 litres

76AE/IAK

3rd notch

from top

350

150
130

6/4

Part

number

010440 (3836-2)

Part

number

000113 (STD-113)

500

89B/IAK

180
160

29/4

2nd notch

from top

Chain whip (all models)

Front chain Rear chain Dynamo chain

a in. a *.ni ½ ot .ni ¼

*When no load on the saddle the rear chain whip on Spring Frame Models is 18 in.

4

Magneto chain

¼

in.

Chains

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Models
350 Competition

350 Touring
500 Competition
500 Touring
All rigid models (Touring)
All spring models
All competition rigid models
All models
All models

… … …

… … … …

… … …
… … …

… … …

… … … …
… … … …

DYNAMO AND MAGNETO CHAINS ARE ENDLESS. " NUMBER OF
LINKS " OF FRONT AND REAR DRIVING CHAINS INCLUDE ONE
SPRING CONNECTING LINK PER CHAIN.

Compression ratios

Model
350

500

With no

compression plate

6·35 to 1
7·24 to

… …

…

Location

Front driving
Front driving
Front driving
Front driving
Rear driving
Rear driving
Rear driving
Dynamo
Magneto

compression plate

Wit h one

5·88 to 1
6·00 to 1

Pitch

½ in.
½ in.
½ in.
½in.

s

in.

s

in.

s

in.

a

in.

a

in.

Wid th

·305 in.

·305 in.

·305 in.

·305 in.

·380 in.

·380 in.

·380 in.

·225 in.

·225 in.

Number

of Links

65
66
66
67
94
98
90
49
58

Part

number

110046-65
110046-66
110046-66
110046-67
110056-94
110056-98
110056-90
110038-49
110038-58

Gear box ratios

Standard
Competition (Rigid)
Competition (Spring)

… … …

… …

…

First gear

1 to 2·67

1

to 3·16

1 to 2·67

Second gear

1

to 1·76
1 to 2·09
1

to 1·69

Third gear

1 to 1·28
1 to 1·28
1 to 1·25

Fourth gear (top)

1

to 1

1

to 1

1

to 1

Gear ratios (models 16M-16MS-18-18S)

Engine sprocket size
15 teeth

16 teeth
17 teeth
18 teeth *
19 teeth
20 teeth

21 teeth †

… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …

*Standard Solo sprocket for Models 16M and 16MS.

†Standard Solo sprocket for Models 18 and 18S.

First gear

18·69 to 1
17·5 to 1
16·44 to 1
15·57 to 1
14·6 to 1
14·01 to 1
13·35 to 1

Gear ratios (models 16MC-18C)

Engine sprocket size
15 teeth

16 teeth *
17 teeth
18 teeth †
19 teeth
20 teeth
21 teeth

… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …

… … …

* Standard Solo sprocket for Model 16MC.
† Standard Solo sprocket for Model 18C.

First gear

22·12 to 1
20·72 to 1

19·46 to 1
18·44 to 1
17·34 to 1
16·59 to 1
15·8 to 1

Second gear

12·32 to 1
11·54 to
10·84 to 1
10·26 to 1

9·6 to 1
9·24 to 1
8·8 to 1

Second gear

14·63 to 1
13·71 to 1
12·87 to 1
12·20 to 1

11·47 to

10·97 to 1
10·45 to 1

5

Third gear

8·96 to 1
8·39 to 1
7·88 to 1
7·47 to 1
7·0 to 1
6·72 to 1
6·4 to 1

Third gear

8·96 to 1
8·39 to 1
7·88 to 1
7·47 to 1
7·0 to 1
6·72 to 1
6·4 to 1

1

1

Fourth gear

(top)

7 to 1
6·56 to 1
6·16 to
5·83 to 1
5·49 to 1
5·25 to 1
5·0 to 1

Fourth gear

(top)

7 to
6·56 to 1
6·16 to
5·83 to 1
5·49 to 1
5·25 to 1
5·0 to 1

1

1

1

Part

number

014015
014016
014017
014018
014019
014020
014021

Part

number

014015
014016
014017
014018
014019
014020
014021

Gear ratios (models 16MCS and 18CS)

Engine sprocket size
15 teeth

16 teeth *
17 teeth
18 teeth †
19 teeth
20 teeth
21 teeth

First gear
18·69 to 1

17·5 to 1

16·44 to 1
15·57 to 1
14·6 to 1

14·01 to 1

13·35 to 1

Second gear

11·83 to 1
11·08 to

1

10·41 to 1

9·85 to 1
9·27 to 1
8·87 to 1
8·45 to 1

Third gear

8·75 to 1
8·2 to 1
7·7 to 1
7·28 to 1
6·86 to 1
6·56 to 1
6·25 to 1

Fourth gear

(top)

7 to 1
6·56 to 1
6·16 to

1
5·83 to 1
5·49 to 1
5·25 to 1

5.0 to 1

Part

number

014015

014016

014017

014018

014019
014020

014021
* standard Solo sprocket for Model 16MCS.
† standard Solo sprocket for Model 18CS.

Ignition (magneto)

Model
16M-16MS-18

18S
16MC-18C
16MCS-18CS

Make

Lucas

Lucas

Type
N1-4

NR1

Rotation

Anti-clock

Anti-clock

Point gap

·012 in.

·012 in.

Ignition point before top
dead centre (with control
in fully advanced position)

½

in.

(39°)

½

in.

(39°)

Ignition (sparking plug)

Model

All

Make

K.L.G.

Type
FE80

Thread

14 mm.

Reach

¾ in.

Point gap

·015 to ·018 in.

Lighting (dynamo)

Make
Lucas

Type

E3-N

Voltage

6

Rotation

Anti-clock

Part number

20028-A

Lighting (bulbs)

Location
Head lamp (Pre-focus)

Pilot
Rear lamp
Speedometer

Type

Double filament
Single contact
Single contact
Single contact

Voltage

6

6
6
6

Wattage

30X24

3
3

1·8

Cap

Special
M.B.C.
M.B.C.
M.B.C.

Part

number

312
988
988

53205

Oversize parts

The following are the only " oversize " variations provided for the 350 and 500 c.c. Single Cylinder machines.
Big-end rollers :

·001 in. oversize

Cylinder re-bore :

·020 in. and ·040 in. oversize

Pistons and rings :

·020 in. and ·040 in. oversize

Pistons

Model
350
500

Top of skirt diameter

2·7176 in.
3·2490 in.

Bottom of skirt diameter

2·7180 in.

3·2494 in.

Part number

013504

013505

All above measurements are subject to a toleration limit of + or — ·0005 in.

Piston rings

Piston ring gap—Normal

Permissible maximum

Piston ring clearance in groove

·006 in.

·030 in.

·002 i n.

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… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …
… … …

… …

… … …
… … …

… …

…

… …
… …
… …
… …

… …
… …

… … … … … … … … … …

… … … … … … … …

… … … … … … … … …

6

Spokes (350 and 500 rigid and spring frame models)

Location
Front, left side

Front, right side
Rear, left side

Rear, right side

Type
Butted

Butted
Butted
Butted

Gauge

8 x 10
9 x 11
7 x 9
7x 9

Length

underhead

5 x in.
8 8 in.

8 8 in.
8 8 in.

Quantity

20
20

20
20

Part

number

011018 (37-X-H51)
011014 (12399)
011012 (39-8-H54)
011012 (39-8-H54)

Spokes (350 and 500 Competition models)

Location

Front, left side
Front, right side
Rear, left side
Rear, right side

Type

Butted
Butted
Butted
Butted

Gauge
8 x 10

9 x 11

6

6

Length

underhead

6¼ in.
9 x in.

8 8 in.
8 8 in.

Quantity

20
20
20
20

Part

number
012786

017111 (38-18T-H51)

017097 (36-2-H51)
017097 (36-2-H51)

Sprockets (engine)

Model

16MC
16MCS
16M
16MS
18C
18CS

18

18S

Number

of teeth

16

18

21

Chain
pitch

½ in.

½ in.

½ in.

Chain
width

·305 in.

·305 in.

·305 in.

Part

number

014016

014018

014021

Sprockets

Location
Clutch

Clutch
Gear box
Gear box
Rear wheel

Number
of teeth

40
40
16
16
42

Chain
pitch

½ in.
½ in.

s

in.

s

in.

s

in.

Chain
width

·305 in.

·305 in.

·380 in.

·380 in.

·380 in.

Part

number

7-X-28

G4-2

179-X-7
22BA-14
010293

Models

All except Competition Spring Frame

Competition Spring Frame

All except Competition Spring Frame

Competition Spring Frame

All

Valve timing (with ·016 inch rocker clearance)

INLET VALVE

Opens before top dead centre
Closes after bottom dead centre

32°
63°

EXHAUST VALVE

Opens before bottom dead centre
Closes after top dead centre

65°
30°

Valve timing pinion

Retained by nut, threaded v in. by 26 threads per in. Left hand thread. Part number 000221 (STD-221).

Weight

Weight of machine with empty tanks

Model
350

500

Standard

Rigid frame

344 lbs.
353 lbs.

Spring frame

375 lbs.
386 lbs.

Competition

Rigid frame

300 lbs.
303 lbs.

Wheels (bearing end play)

Bearing end play ·002 in.

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… … … …

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… … … …

… … …
… … …

… …
… …
… …

… …
… …
… …
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… …

…

… …

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7

CONTROLS

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Throttle twist grip. On right handlebar. Twist inwards to open. When

(1)

fully closed engine should just idle when hot.
Air lever. Small lever on right handlebar. Pull inwards to increase air supply

(2)

to carburetter. Once set, when engine has warmed up, requires no alteration
for different road speeds. Should be fully closed when starting engine from cold.

Ignition lever. Small lever on left handlebar. Advances and retards ignition

(3)

point. Pull inwards to advance on touring models (retard on competition models).
Retard two-fifths of total movement for starting.

Valve lifter lever. Small lever close to clutch lever. Lifts exhaust valve from

(4)

seat, releasing compression in combustion chamber, enabling engine to be easily
rotated for starting. Also used for stopping engine if throttle stop is set as
advised above.

Clutch lever. Large lever on left handlebar. Grip to release clutch so that

(5)

drive to rear wheel is disconnected. Used when moving away from a standstill
and when changing gear.

Front brake lever. Large lever on right handlebar. Grip to operate front

(6)

wheel brake and, for normal braking, use in conjunction with rear brake application.
Rear brake lever. Pedal close to left side foot rest. Depress with left foot to

(7)

apply rear brake. Apply gently and use increasing pressure as the road speed
decreases.

Gear change lever. Pedal in horizontal position close to right foot rest. Con-

(8)

trols selection of the four speeds, or ratios, between engine and rear wheel

revolutions, with a " free," or neutral, position. See illustration 3.
Kick-starter lever. Vertical pedal on right hand side of gear box. Operated

(9)

to start the engine.

(10)

Lighting switch. In top of head lamp. Controls lamps by a rotating lever which

has three positions :

(1) "OFF" Lamps not on.
(2) " L " Pilot bulb in head lamp and rear lamp and speedometer lamp on.
(3) " H " Head and rear lamp and speedometer lamp on.

Ammeter. In top of head lamp. Indicates flow of electric current, in, or out,

(II)

of battery. (" Charge " or " Discharge.")

(12)

Horn switch. Press switch on right handlebar. Depress button to sound horn.
Gear box filler cap. Located on top edge of kick-starter case cover. Allows

(13)

insertion of lubricant and access to clutch inner wire.

(14)

Footrest for rider. One located each side of machine.
Petrol tank filler cap. Located in top of fuel tank. To release, slightly depress,

(15)

turn fully to the left, and then lift away. There are two locking positions. The

middle position, between the fully tightened down and " lift away " positions,
is in the nature of a " safety " device to prevent loss that might be occasioned by

unauthorised meddling.

(16)

Oil tank filler cap. Located on top edge of oil tank. The construction and
operation is exactly as the petrol tank filler cap.

Dipping switch. Trigger switch on left handlebar. Used to select normal or

(17)

" dipped " beam of head lamp when main lighting switch lever is in the " H "

position. (The head lamp bulb has two filaments.)

8

If any adjustment is made to the rear brake pedal make certain the brake does not bind

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and also see there is not excessive free pedal movement before the brake comes " on."

Illustration 1

Showing Controls

Before using the machine, sit on the saddle and become familiar with the position and

operation of the various controls. Pay particular attention to the gear positions.

B—A

9

DRIVING

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FUEL

At the time of publishing this instruction book only one grade of motor fuel (Pool Spirit)
is on sale, but it may be that soon the various grades of pre-war petrol will again be avail­able when the use of best quality fuel is recommended because the small amount of
economy that might be considered to accrue by using the cheaper grades is more than
offset by the advantages obtained by using only Number One grades.

FUEL SUPPLY

Two fuel feed taps are situated underneath the rear end of the petrol tank. (One each
side.) Both must be shut off when the machine is left standing for more than a few
minutes.

The tap plungers work horizontally. To open, the hexagon knob (marked " push on ")
is pushed towards the body of the tap. To close, press the round milled knob (marked
" push off ").

Normally, only use the tap on the right hand side of the machine and then the other
side will act as a reserve supply. Always re-fuel as soon as possible after being forced
to call upon the reserve, and then, at once, close the " reserve " tap.

It will be noted that, by fitting two petrol feed taps, it is possible to remove the petrol
tank from the machine without the necessity of first draining it of fuel.

Illustration 2

Kick-starter

quadrant and ratchet pinion

10

STARTING THE ENGINE

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(a) See that there is sufficient fuel in the petrol tank.
(b) See that there is sufficient oil in the oil tank.
(c) See that the gear pedal is in the neutral position.
(d) Push inward the hexagonal end of off-side petrol tap slide.
(e) See that the air control lever is in the fully closed position.
(f) Fully advance the ignition and then slack back the control lever two-fifths of its

total movement.

(g) Open the throttle not more than one-sixth of the total movement of the twist grip.
(h) Depress the plunger on the top of the carburetter float chamber until it can be

felt the chamber is full of petrol.

(i) Raise the valve lifter lever and, while keeping it raised, turn over the engine several

times by depressing the kick-starter pedal, three times, the object being to free
the engine. (This only applies if the engine is cold.)

(j) Depress the kick-starter until compression is felt, then raise the valve lifter lever

and ease the engine just over compression. Then, after allowing the kick-starter
pedal to return nearly to its normal position, give it a long swinging kick with the
valve closed and the engine should immediately fire.

The kick-starter mechanism must be allowed to engage properly before putting heavy
pressure on the kick-starter crank pedal pin. That means there are two definite
and separate movements when operating the mechanism by depressing the crank.

The first is a slow and gentle movement which ends when it is felt the quadrant has

engaged with the teeth on the ratchet pinion. (See illustration 2.)

Illustration 3

Showing the relative
positions taken up by the
moving gear indicator
when the various gears are
engaged.

The moving gear indicator
is attached to the control
spindle and the fixed gear
indicator is located on the
kick-starter case cover.

The two indicators are
only in line with each
other when the foot gear
change pedal is in the
neutral position.

The first slow and gentle movement is essential to avoid damage to the teeth of the
kick-starter quadrant.

After the engine has started, slowly open the air lever until it runs evenly. Then set
the throttle so that the engine is running at a moderate speed (neither racing nor ticking
over) and allow to warm up. While doing this, check the oil circulation as detailed in

page 14. The machine can then be taken on the road,
NOTE—Do not race up the engine from cold and do not flood the carburetter to such

an extent that petrol is dripping, because then, in the event of a backfire, there
is a danger of such loose petrol igniting. This cannot possibly happen if the
starting instructions are carefully followed, but, in the event of a fire, there is

no cause for panic. Merely turn off the petrol tap to isolate the main supply,

open wide the throttle and turn over the engine by operating the kick-starter

pedal when suction will extinguish the fire.

11

STOPPING THE ENGINE

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To stop the engine, close the throttle, raise the valve lifter lever and keep it raised

until the engine has ceased to revolve.

ON THE ROAD

Having started and warmed up the engine, take the machine off the stand, sit astride it,
free the clutch by pulling up the large lever on the left bar and engage the lowest gear.
Next, slowly release the clutch lever and the machine will commence to move forward.
As it does this, the engine speed will tend to drop as it picks up the load so it will be
necessary to increase slightly the throttle opening, bit by bit, to keep the engine speed
gently rising.

When well under way, disengage the clutch, slightly close the throttle, engage second
gear and release the clutch lever, then open up the throttle to increase the speed of
the machine. Repeat these operations in order to engage third and top gears.

To engage a higher gear the pedal is pressed downward with the toe and a lower gear is
obtained by raising the pedal with the instep. To engage first gear from the neutral

position, the pedal is therefore raised. After each pedal movement, internal springs
return the pedal to its normal horizontal position.

The pedal must be moved to the full extent of its travel when selecting a gear, either

up or down. It must not be " stamped down " or jabbed, but firmly and decisively
moved till it stops. A half-hearted movement may not give full engagement. Keep
the foot off the pedal when driving and between each gear change because, unless the
lever can freely return to its normal central position, the next gear cannot be engaged.
Finally, fully advance the ignition and leave it in that position unless it is necessary to

retard in order to ease the engine and so prevent " pinking " when pulling hard on a

gradient.

STOPPING THE MACHINE

To stop the machine, close the throttle, declutch by lifting the large lever on the left

handlebar, and gently apply both brakes, increasing the pressure on them as the road
speed of the machine decreases. Place the gear change foot pedal in the neutral position
and stop the engine.

Before leaving the machine, turn off the fuel supply.

IMPORTANT NOTICE
NEVER DRIVE AWAY AT HIGH SPEED WHEN STARTING A RUN WITH A

COLD ENGINE. GIVE THE OIL A CHANCE TO WARM UP AND THIN OUT,

PARTICULARLY WHEN THE MACHINE IS COLD. UNTIL THE OIL REACHES

ITS NORMAL RUNNING TEMPERATURE THE CIRCULATION IS

RESTRICTED. SEIZURES CAN BE AVOIDED BY TAKING THIS SIMPLE

ESSENTIAL PRECAUTION.

RUNNING IN

Although it is customary to quote permitted maximum speeds on the various gears

during the period of running in, these are really no guide to overdriving, the only essential

thing to avoid being the use of large throttle opening.

If the precaution is taken of limiting the use of the throttle to about one-third of its

opening during the first 1,000 miles, irrespective of the road speed, and whether on the

level or climbing, the necessary conditions for running in will have been observed.

12

Special attention must be given, during the running in period, to such details as valve

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rocker adjustment, chains, brakes, contact breaker points, and steering head bearings,
all of which tend to bed down in the first hundred miles or so. Particular note must be
made of the adjustment of steering head bearings, which, if run in a slack condition, will
be quickly ruined. After this bedding down process has taken place, adjustments to
such details will probably only be necessary at lengthy intervals.

After about 1,000 miles have been covered larger throttle openings may be gradually
indulged in for short bursts only.

Until at least 2,000 miles have been covered the owner of a new machine is strongly

advised to curb his natural desire to learn the mount's maximum capabilities. Restraint
in this direction will be amply repaid later.

NOTES ON DRIVING

If, at first, the lowest gear will not engage, release the clutch lever and after a second or
two, make another attempt. This condition may exist in a new machine, but it tends to
disappear after a little use,

Always endeavour to make the movements of hand (on the clutch) and foot (on the gear
pedal) as simultaneous as possible, and remember, in all gear changes, a steady pressure

of the foot is desirable. This pressure should be maintained until the clutch is fully

released. It is not sufficient just to jab the foot pedal and then release the clutch lever.

When actually in motion, it will be found sufficient to merely free the clutch a trifle,
to ease the drive when changing gear and, with reasonable care, changes of gear then
can be made without a sound.

Do not unnecessarily race the engine or let in the clutch sufficiently suddenly to cause

the rear wheel to spin. Take a pride in making a smooth get-away.
When changing up to a higher gear, as the clutch is freed, the throttle should be slightly

closed so that the engine speed may be reduced to keep in step with the higher gear ratio.
Conversely, when changing down to a lower gear, the throttle should be regulated so
that the engine speed is increased to keep in step with the lower gear ratio.

Do not slip the clutch to control the road speed.
The clutch must only be used when starting from a standstill and when changing gear

It must NOT be operated to ease the engine, instead of changing gear, or be held out,
in order to " free-wheel."

The exhaust valve lifter is NOT used in normal driving on main and secondary roads.

When travelling slowly, such as may occur in traffic or on a hill, and the engine commences

to labour, it is then necessary to change to a lower gear. Engine " knocking " or

" pinking " and a harshness in the transmission are symptoms of such labour and although

relief can sometimes be found by retarding the ignition, it is generally much better to
change down. A good driver is able to sense such conditions and will make the change
before the engine has reached the stage of distress. The gear box is provided to be
used and consequently full use should be made of the intermediate gears to obtain
effortless running and smooth hill climbing.

Keep the feet clear of the brake and gear pedals when not actually using them and keep
the hand off the clutch lever when not in use.

Drive as much as possible on the throttle, making the minimum use of the brakes.
When using the machine on wet or greasy roads, it is generally better to apply BOTH

brakes together, because sudden or harsh application of either brake only, under such
conditions, may result in a skid.

In all conditions, it is advisable to make a habit of always using both brakes together

rather than habitually using the rear brake and reserving the front brake for emergency.

13

CHECKING OIL CIRCULATION

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Provision is made to observe the oil in circulation and it is advisable to do this before
each run.

If the filler cap on the oil tank is removed the bent over end of the oil return pipe will
be noticed some two inches below the level of the filler cap orifice and the returning
oil can be seen running from it. This check should be made Immediately after starting
the engine from cold. This is because while the engine is stationary, oil from all parts
of the interior of the engine drains back into the crankcase sump, so that, until this surplus
is cleared, the return flow is very positive and continuous. Therefore, if the oil circula­tion is deranged, the fact is apparent at once by the lack of a steady return flow.

Illustration 4

Showing the oil tank with the felt
filter in its cylindrical housing and

the metal strainer mounted on the

entry end of the feed pipe union.

Also shows the direction of flow of
oil from tank to engine and return

flow from engine to tank via the small

spout, located so that it can be
inspected by removing the tank

filler cap. An air vent pipe is located

in the back of the oil tank to ensure

freedom from air-locks.

For the convenience of Owners, SPARES
STOCKISTS are appointed for most districts.

To save delay, and the delivery surcharge,

customers are recommended to apply to their

nearest Agent or spares stockist.

14

LUBRICATION

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LUBRICANTS TO USE

Efficient lubrication is of vital importance and it is false economy to use cheap oils and

greases.
We recommend the following lubricants to use in machines of our make :

FOR ENGINE LUBRICATION

SUMMER WINTER

Mobiloil D
Castrol "Grand Prix"
Price's Energol 60

Essolube "Racer"
Triple Shell

FOR HUB LUBRICATION AND ALL FRAME PARTS USING GREASE

(SAE-50)
(SAE-60)
(SAE-60)
(SAE-60)
(SAE-50)

FOR GEAR BOX LUBRICATION
Mobiloil D

Castrol Grand Prix

Price's Energol 60
Essolube 50

Triple Shell

Mobilgrease No. 2
Castrolease Medium
Price's Belmoline C
Esso Grease

Shell Retinax Grease C.D.

Mobiloil A

Castrol XL

Price's Energol 30
Essolube 30
Double Shell

(SAE-50)
(SAE-60)

(SAE-60)
(SAE-50)
(SAE-50)

(SAE-30)

(SAE-30)
(SAE-30)
(SAE-30)
(SAE-30)

FOR TELEDRAULIC FRONT FORKS AND TELEDRAULIC REAR LEGS

Mobiloil Arctic

Castrolite

Price's Energol 20
Essolube 20
Single Shell

FOR REAR CHAINS

Tallow

When buying oils and greases it is advisable to specify the Brand as well as the grade
and, as an additional precaution, to buy only in sealed containers or from branded cabinets.

15

(SAE-20)
(SAE-20)
(SAE-20)

(SAE-20)

(SAE-20)

FILLING THE GREASE GUN

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The standard grease gun consists of a barrel having a spring loaded end cap, to which
is fixed a central steel piston in the shape of a long rod. This piston fits into a small
cylinder made in one with the screwed top cap, on the end of which is the cupped nozzle
that fits over the grease nipples. In the barrel of the gun, and sliding on the central
piston rod, is a cork piston.

The grease must be filled on the TOP of the cork piston. The gun may be filled by

inserting the grease in the barrel of the gun by means of a lath or similar " spoon."
However, it is better to obtain the grease packed in the special containers that are

supplied, having loose collars in which are holes so that, by placing the barrel of the gun

over the hole of the central floating plate and pressing downwards, the gun is instantly

charged with grease. Twisting the gun, and, at the same time, taking it away from the
floating plate, leaves the top of the gun barrel flush with grease, and then all that remains
to be done is to replace the screwed top cap.

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

This is by dry sump system. Oil feeds, by gravity, from the oil tank to the pump in the

crankcase. The pump forces oil to various parts, which then drains to the bottom of
crankcase sump. The pump then returns oil to the tank. This process is continuous

while the engine is revolving. The pump is designed to return more oil to the tank
than it can force into the engine. Therefore the crankcase sump is kept clear of excess oil.
A felt cartridge filter, in the oil tank, removes foreign matter collected by the oil in its

passage through the engine. A metal gauze strainer is fitted to the oil feed pipe in the
oil tank to prevent pieces of fluff, etc., which may find their way into the tank when

replenishing, from entering the oil pump. (See Illustration 4.)

Felt filter and metal strainer should be cleaned in petrol each time the oil tank is drained.

ENGINE OIL PUMP

The pump has only one moving part. This is the plunger which revolves and reciprocates.

Rotation is caused by the worm gear on the timing side flywheel axle. Reciprocation

It caused by the guide pin which engages in the profiled groove cut on the plunger.

Oil is fed to the pump through the lower of the two oil pipes between tank and crank­case and Is returned through the upper pipe.

If, for any reason, the crankcase halves are separated, the oil pump plunger must

be removed from its housing before attempting to separate the crankcase
helves.

ENGINE OIL CIRCULATION

The oil pump forces oil through :—

(a) A passage cut through the timing side flywheel axle, timing side flywheel and crank

pin to lubricate the big-end bearing. The splash passes to interior of cylinder, to
lubricate the cylinder and piston, and then falls into the crankcase sump.

(b) A passage in crankcase, controlled by ball valve, direct to the cylinder, to assist in

cylinder and piston lubrication and then falls into the crankcase sump.

(c) A passage in timing gear case where it " builds up " to a predetermined level to

lubricate the timing gears and then falls into the crankcase sump.

(d) Through a pipe from the front of oil pump housing to the rocker box by which

all rocker gear and valve stems are lubricated and then falls through the push rod
cover tubes and tappet guides to the timing gear case and, from there, drains into

the crankcase sump, as detailed in Para. (c).

The oil pump extracts oil in the crankcase sump and returns it to oil tank. On its way

It passes through the felt cartridge filter located in the oil tank.

16

Illustration 5

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Engine Oil Circulation

THE OIL TANK AND FILTERS

The level of oil in the supply tank should never be allowed to fall below the low level

mark and, upon replenishment, should not be higher than one inch from the filler cap
orifice, otherwise, when starting the engine, the bulk of oil in the crankcase sump may be
greater than the space available in the tank.

The oil filter is made in cylindrical form of thick felt and is supported by a tubular wire
cage. The felt is not detachable from the cage.

C—A

17

A metal gauze strainer (secured to the feed pipe union) stands in the oil tank.

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After the first 500 miles, again at 1,000 miles, and subsequently at 5,000 mile intervals,

it is recommended that the oil tank is drained, the oil filters cleaned in petrol and the
tank replenished with new oil.

For access to oil filter :—

Unscrew the hexagonal headed cap on top of oil tank and withdraw the dished washer
and spring. Then insert a finger in the felt filter and gently raise same until the

top end touches the underneath of saddle. Then by encircling the filter with the hand it

will be found possible to exert sufficient upward pressure on the flexible saddle top to

permit the filter to be completely withdrawn without distortion. Care is needed to

avoid kinking the filter.

To re-fit filter :—

Reverse above instructions.

NOTE—If, after the filter has been removed from the tank, it is damaged, so that the

For access to metal strainer (after oil has been drained from tank) :—

Remove oil feed pipe from union screwed into bottom of oil tank. This is pipe nearer

to rear wheel and is removed by unscrewing its union nut.

Spring away pipe from union.

Unscrew union from bottom of oil tank. Metal strainer is integral part of this union.

To re-fit metal strainer :—

Reverse above instructions.

felt is perforated, or the ends distorted, it is essential to discard it and to fit a
new filter.
Be careful to avoid damaging the filter or the cork washer under the hexagonal
cap.

ADJUSTMENT OF OIL FEED

The internal flow of oil is regulated by fixed restrictions. No adjustment is provided

except for the oil feed to the inlet valve stem. This adjustment is made by a needle

pointed screw located in the right side of cylinder head. (See Illustration 6.). It is
locked in position by a nut. The approximate correct setting is one-sixth of a complete
turn from the fully closed position. Once set it requires little, or no, adjustment.

Inlet valve squeak indicates the oil feed adjustment is not open enough. Excessive oil
consumption, a smoky exhaust or an oiled sparking plug, generally indicates the oil
feed adjustment is open too much.

EXHAUST VALVE STEM LUBRICATION

The exhaust valve stem is lubricated by oil fed through a passage drilled in the cylinder

head. No adjustment is provided. All excess oil is by-passed back to the timing gear
case.

LUBRICATION POINTS TO REMEMBER

A dirty, or choked, felt oil filter causes heavy oil consumption. This is because the

return flow of oil to the oil tank is slowed, or even almost completely stopped, thereby
allowing an excess of oil to " build up " in the crankcase sump, much of which passes
to the piston.

A clogged metal strainer, in the gravity feed pipe, will also cause improper, or no, oil
circulation. This can only occur as the result of adding dirty oil when replenishing the
tank.

Both end caps on pump plunger housing must be air-tight.
Check oil circulation before starting each run.

18

Illustration 6

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The inlet valve guide is shown withdrawn as also is the inlet valve stem

adjusting screw (with lock nut)

PLAIN HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE CYLIN-

1

DER HEAD RETAINING BOLT.
GUIDE, FOR VALVE.

2

CYLINDER HEAD.

3

TAPPED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE

4

ROCKER BOX RETAINING BOLT.
PLAIN HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE VALVE

5

GUIDE.
TAPPED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE

6

CARBURETTER RETAINING STUD.
INLET PORT.

7

TAPPED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE

8

CARBURETTER RETAINING STUD.
PLAIN HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE CYLIN-

9

DER HEAD RETAINING BOLT.

10

TAPPED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE
NEEDLE SCREW.

11

NEEDLE SCREW, ADJUSTING OIL FEED
TO INLET VALVE.

12

LOCK NUT, FOR NEEDLE ADJUSTING
SCREW.

13

PLAIN HOLE, FOR OIL FEED TO INLET
VALVE.

14

PLAIN HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE PUSH
ROD COVER TUBE TOP GASKET.

15

PLAIN HOLE, FOR OIL FEED TO EXHAUST
VALVE.

TAPPED HOLE, FOR SPARKING PLUG.

16

19

GEAR BOX LUBRICATION

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Use one of the grades of Oils already specified. In no circumstances must heavy grease
be used.

Lubricant is inserted through the filler cap orifice mounted on top edge of kick-starter

case cover.
The gear box must not be entirely filled with oil, and, under normal conditions, the

addition of two fluid ounces of oil every 1,000 miles will be sufficient.

Excessive oil will cause leakage.

A screwed drain plug in gear box shell, low down at rear, facilitates gear box flushing
and change of lubricant.

HUB LUBRICATION

Keep hubs packed with grease. This prevents entry of water and dirt. Grease nipples
in centre of hubs. Inject small quantity of grease. Excessive grease may impair efficiency
of brakes.

CHAIN LUBRICATION

Front driving chain and dynamo chain run in oil bath. (Front chaincase.) Use engine

oil. Maintain level to height of the inspection cap opening.

Oil in front chaincase also lubricates the engine shock absorber. Transmission harshness

generally indicates level of oil in chaincase is too low.

Remove chaincase inspection cap each week, inspect level of oil, top-up as necessary.

To remove inspection cap :—

Unscrew knurled screw about four turns.

Slide cap sideways, till the back plate can be slipped through the opening, and take away

the complete cap assembly.

When replacing inspection cap, centralise cork washer and then fully tighten knurled

screw. Essential this is kept tight otherwise cap assembly will be lost.

Rear driving chain should be removed for lubrication. Clean chain in paraffin, drain

and wipe. Immerse in bath of molten tallow, leave for several minutes, remove and

allow excess lubricant to drain off and then replace on machine. Engine oil is a poor

substitute for tallow and, if used, chain should be allowed to soak for several hours.

Lubricate rear chain every three thousand miles in Summer and every thousand miles in

Winter.

Magneto chain runs in case packed with grease. A grease nipple is fitted to the case
cover. Inject small quantity of grease every thousand miles.

20

BRAKE EXPANDER LUBRICATION

Grease nipple on each brake expander bush. (One on each brake cover plate.) Use

grease sparingly. Excessive grease may impair efficiency of brakes.

BRAKE ROD JOINT LUBRICATION

A few drops of engine oil on each brake rod yoke end pin and on the threaded portion

of brake rod. (One pin on yoke each end of brake rod and on bottom of foot brake cable.)

BRAKE PEDAL LUBRICATION

Grease nipple in heel of foot brake pedal.

SPEEDOMETER LUBRICATION

One grease nipple on top of speedometer gear box attached to right side of rear wheel

spindle- (No other part of the speedometer requires lubrication.)

STAND FIXING BOLT LUBRICATION

Several of the parts of a motor cycle that have a very small amount of movement, such

as the hinge bolts of the stands, should be lubricated.

STEERING HEAD BEARING LUBRICATION

One grease nipple on Front Frame Head Lug and another on right hand side of Handlebar
Lug.

CONTROL LEVER LUBRICATION

Occasionally a drop of engine oil on all moving parts of the handlebar control levers.

If twist grip is too stiff : remove two screws binding the two halves of the clip. This

releases the grip which may be pulled off the handlebar. Smear handlebar, the drum
on which the inner wire is wound and the friction spring on the half clip with grease and
replace.

WHEN ORDERING SPARES

ALWAYS QUOTE

T H E CO MP L ET E E N G I N E N U M BE R

(Including all the Letters in it).

THIS ENABLES US TO IDENTIFY THE MACHINE.

EACH SERIES OF FRAMES IS NUMBERED FROM ZERO
UPWARDS. THEREFORE THE QUOTATION OF A FRAME
NUMBER ONLY DOES NOT PERMIT A MACHINE TO

BE IDENTIFIED.

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21

LUBRICATION CHART

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Illustration 7

Lubrication Chart

Engine Oil Locations

MAIN OIL TANK.

1
7

CONTROL LEVER MOVING PARTS.
BRAKE ROD JOINTS.

8
9

FRONT PROP, AND REAR STAND HINGE
PINS.

FRONT CHAIN CASE.

19

GEAR BOX.

12

Hydraulic Fluid Location

FRONT FORKS (Fill at Top).

4

REAR CHAIN.

5

FRONT HUB.

2

REAR HUB.

3

MAGNETO CHAIN CASE.

10

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS.

11

SPEEDOMETER GEAR BOX.

13

FRONT AND REAR BRAKE EXPANDERS.

16

BRAKE PEDAL SPINDLE.

17

Tallow Location

Grease Locations

When buying oils and greases it is advisable to specify the Brand as well as the grade
and, as an additional precaution, to buy only in sealed containers or from branded
cabinets.

22

MAINTENANCE

SADDLE ADJUSTMENT

Saddle adjustment is provided at both front and rear ends. Importance is attached to
the desirability of owners selecting the adjustment most to their liking. At the front
end, the adjustment consists of three evenly spaced positions for the hinge bolt, accessible
only upon removal of the petrol tank. At the rear end, adjustment is obtained by
altering the position of the lower spring fixing nuts upon the screwed studs to which
the springs are attached.

PERIODICAL MAINTENANCE

Regular maintenance, attention to lubrication, and certain adjustments must be made to
ensure unfailing reliability and satisfactory service. This necessary attention is detailed
below, and owners are strongly recommended to follow carefully these suggestions,
and to make a regular practice of doing so from the first.

The reference numbers, in brackets, refer to the locations specified on the Lubrication
Chart, Illustration 7.

DAILY
Oil tank

Petrol tank

Inspect oil level (1) and top-up if necessary. Check oil circulation..

Check level and re-fill if necessary.

WEEKLY
Oil tank

Tyres

Check level (1) and re-fill if necessary.

Check pressures and inflate if necessary.

EVERY F OURTEEN DAYS
Battery Clean and Top-up (see pages 79 and 80).

EVERY 500 MILES
Oil tank

Chaincase

Rear chain

Battery

Drain at first 500 miles and re-fill with new oil, and clean felt filter.
(1.)

Check level of oil when machine is standing vertically on level ground,
when level of oil should not be less than x" below bottom edge of
inspection orifice. (19.)

If dry, apply engine oil with a brush. (5.)

Inspect each cell for level of electrolyte and top-up with distilled water
if necessary.

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23

EVERY 1,000 MILES

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Oil tank
Rear chain
Magneto chain

Gear box
Hubs
Expanders
Steering head
Small parts
Air Filter

EVERY 3,000 MILES
Rear chain

Brake pedal
Speedometer
Magneto

Plug
Steering head
Bolts and nuts

Rockers

Drain at first 1,000 miles and re-fill with new oil. (1.)
Remove and soak in molten tallow in bad weather. (5.)
Inject small amount of grease through nipple in magneto chain case

cover (10.)
Add 2 fluid ounces of specified oil. (12.)
Inject small amount of grease. (2-3.)
Inject small amount of grease. (16.)
Inject small amount of grease. (11.)
Smear all moving parts with engine oil and wipe off surplus.
(If fitted) clean and re-oil filter element.

Remove and soak in molten tallow in Summer. (5.)
Inject small amount of grease. (17.)
Inject small amount of grease into speedometer gear box. (13.)
Oil wick on contact breaker.

Smear tappet with thin oil.
Clean contact breaker points and re-set if necessary.

Clean sparking plug and re-set points if necessary.
Test steering head for up and down movement and adjust if necessary.
Check all nuts and bolts for tightness and tighten if necessary, but

beware of over-tightening.
Check O.H.V. rocker adjustment and correct if necessary.

EVERY 5,000 MILES
Oil tank

Filters

Magneto
Dynamo

Front fork

Rear legs

Carburetter

EVERY 10,000 MILES
Magneto and

Dynamo

Air Filter

Drain and re-fill with new oil. (1.) If machine is only used for short
runs renew oil every three months instead of mileage interval.

Clean metal mesh filter in oil tank. (Illustration 4.)
Clean felt fabric filter in oil tank.

Clean as detailed in Electrical section.
Clean as detailed in Electrical section.

Check each side of front fork for hydraulic fluid content and, if
necessary, top up. (4.)

(If fitted) check each leg for hydraulic fluid content and, if necessary,
top-up. (1-13.)

Remove carburetter float chamber and clean its interior.

Get a Lucas Service Station to dismantle, clean, lubricate and
generally service.

(If fitted) renew filter element.

24

FREE SERVICE SCHEME

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FREE SERVICE SCHEME

All owners of N EW MODELS are entitled to one FREE SERVICE AND
INSPECTION at 500 miles, or, at latest, three months after taking delivery.

This service is arranged by the supplying dealer to whom the Free Service Voucher
must be handed. This voucher, together with the Instruction Manual, are supplied
by us upon receipt of the signed application card to be found in the tool box upon taking
delivery of a new motor cycle.

The INSPECTION AND SERVICE consists of :
(a) Check, and, if necessary, adjust :

Rocker clearances.

(1)

Contact breaker points.

(2)
(3)

Sparking plugs.

(4)

Clutch.

(5)

Chains.

(b)

Tighten all external nuts and bolts, including cylinder bolts.
Top-up battery and check all lighting equipment.

(c)
(d)

Clean out carburetter and adjust mixture.

(e)

Adjust and lubricate all cables.

(f)

Grease all nipples.

(g)

Drain oil system. Clean filter and replenish.

(h)

Check oil level in front chaincase.
Top-up gear box.

(i)
(j)

Test machine on the road.

Wheel bearings.

(6)

Brakes.

(7)

Forks, legs, and steering head.

(8)

Alignment of wheels.

(9)

Tyre pressures.

(10)

NOTE—Oils, greases and materials used are chargeable to the customer.

FOR THE CONVENIENCE OF OWNERS,

SPARES STOCKISTS

ARE APPOINTED FOR MOST DISTRICTS. TO
SAVE DELAY, AND THE DELIVERY SURCHARGE,
CUSTOMERS ARE RECOMMENDED TO ALWAYS
APPLY TO THEIR NEAREST SPARES STOCKIST.

D—A

25

ENGINE SERVICE

ACCESS

For almost all service work to the upper parts of the engine, it is necessary, in order to
obtain accessibility, first, to remove the petrol tank. The two petrol taps facilitate
this operation by removing the need to first drain the tank of petrol.

Illustration 8

Showing details and order of assembly, of the fuel tank fixing bolts and

components

A
B
C
D
E

METAL WASHER
THICK RUBBER PAD
THIN RUBBER PAD
TANK FIXING BOLT
SLEEVE FOR FIXING BOLT

Part Number

014999
014995

014996
014997
014998

1¼" diameter.

s" .hgih
x" high.
1¼" x c" x 26.
m .gnol "

… … … … … …
… … … … … …
… … … … … …
… … … … … …

… … … … …

…
…
…

…
…

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26

TO REMOVE THE PETROL TANK

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Close both petrol taps and disconnect the petrol feed pipe from each tap. (Use two
spanners, one to hold the tap and the other to unscrew the union nut on the petrol pipe.)

Cut the wires interlacing the four fixing bolts.
Unscrew the tank fixing bolts and the tank is then free to be taken away.
NOTE—The disposition of the various rubber and metal washers and tubular spacers

should be specially observed so that they may be correctly replaced.

TO REPLACE THE PETROL TANK

Proceed in reverse order to removal. Screw firmly home the four fixing bolts and
interlace them, in pairs, with 22 gauge copper wire.

TO REMOVE THE ROCKER BOX

Remove the petrol tank.
Remove the three nuts and fibre washers retaining the rocker box side cover and take

away the cover.
Disconnect the oil pipe feeding oil to the rocker box.
Turn over engine until both valves are completely closed.
On 500 c.c. model, remove engine steady bracket by removing bolt from frame clip and

nuts and washers from the rocker box bolt extensions.
Remove the nine bolts retaining rocker box to cylinder head.
Disconnect valve lifter cable.
Tilt upward the right hand side of rocker box and extract the two long pushrods. Lay

these aside so they may be identified and replaced in their original position.
The rocker box may then be lifted off.

TO REPLACE THE ROCKER BOX

Carefully clean the top of cylinder head and lower face of rocker box.
Revolve engine until both tappets are down, i.e., the top dead centre of firing stroke.

Lay the composition jointing washer on cylinder head. This must be faultless. If
necessary, renew.

Lay the rocker box in position then slightly raise the right hand side to allow the long
push rods to be inserted into their original respective positions.

Insert all nine rocker box fixing bolts and note that the bolt with short head is in the
centre right hand position and on 500 c.c. models the bolts with threaded extensions
are fitted one each side of the central short head bolt.

Tighten each bolt in turn bit by bit until all are fully home.
On 500 c.c. models replace the engine steady stay.
Turn engine over several times to ensure parts have bedded home.
Re-fix valve lifter cable.
Re-fix rocker box oil pipe union nut using two spanners to ensure that the union

screwed into rocker box does not turn while the nut is being tightened.
Check tappet clearances and re-set if necessary.

27

Inspect rubber fillet on rocker box side cover and renew if not perfect.

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Replace the side cover ensuring that a fibre washer is fitted under each of the three
retaining nuts.

Beware of over tightening these nuts, the joint being made by the rubber fillet
excessive pressure is not necessary.

Replace the petrol tank.

DECARBONISATION

Instead of the usual stipulated mileage interval between periods of decarbonisation, it is
recommended that this is undertaken only when the need for same becomes apparent
because of excessive pinking, loss of power or generally reduced performance. When
undertaken, unless it is thought necessary to inspect the piston and rings, the cylinder
barrel is best left undisturbed. The various stages in decarbonisation are described
below.

TO REMOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD

Remove

The petrol tank.
The sparking plug.
The rocker box.

Remove the exhaust system by :

Remove nut, and washers, retaining exhaust pipe to its stay.
Remove nut, and washers, retaining silencer to its stay.
Remove complete exhaust system, by pulling away from stays and then downwards,

from the exhaust port in cylinder head.

Remove carburetter by :

Unscrew two carburetter retaining nuts.
Take away carburetter and rest on saddle.

Remove

The four bolts retaining cylinder head to barrel, and head is free to be taken away.
While doing this the push rod cover tubes will come away with the head.

If the sparking plug or cylinder head bolts resist removal, do not use force but brush
paraffin round their heads and leave for a time to soak before making further effort.

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE VALVES

Remove the cylinder head.
Attach the special valve spring compressing tool, Part No. 014605, to cylinder head with

the two bolts provided (Part No. 010795), see illustration 9. Then compress
the springs by screwing in evenly the two long bolts, the reduced tips of which will
engage with the countersunk depressions on the valve spring collar. The split collet can
then be withdrawn leaving the valve free. To remove the compressor slacken each of
the long bolts little by little in turn until they are clear of the valve spring top cap.
After removing the compressor tool the whole spring assembly can be lifted off. To
ensure accurate replacement it will be observed that the valve spring block to which the
prong ends of the hairpin valve springs are attached, is provided with a dowel pin which
engages a hole in the valve guide boss.

28

To replace valves :—
After cleaning valve guide bores with

rag smear each valve stem with clean
oil and reverse procedure above.

IMPORTANT NOTE :—
If for any reason valve springs are re-

moved from their fixing block it is
important to see that upon replace­ment the spring with narrow spaced
prongs is entered into the block from
the chamfered end.

Illustration 9

Showing application of

valve spring compressor

1

2

3

4

INLET VALVE PORT.

ORIFICE FOR SCREW ADJUSTING OIL FEED
TO INLET VALVE.

OIL PASSAGE FROM ROCKER BOX TO
INLET VALVE GUIDE.

BOLTS, 010795 RETAINING V ALVE S PRIN G
COM PRES SOR TO CYLINDER HEAD.

5

6

7

8

9

BOLTS, IMPINGING ON VALVE SP RING
COLLA R W HICH, UPON BEING SCREWED
DOWN, EXPOSE VALV E C O L LET THERE­BY PERMITTING ITS REMOVAL.

BODY OF VALV E SPRI NG CO MPR ESSOR.

COLLAR, RETAINING VALVE SPRINGS.

VALVE SPRINGS.
ORIFICE FOR VALVE GUIDE.

NOTE—The special valve spring compressor tool is not part of the standard tool kit but is

obtained from any of our dealers complete with bolts for attachment (Part
No. 014605.)

It is essential that the collets are correctly located on the valve stems. It will
be observed that the collet has two grooves machined in the bore and those
two grooves must register with the two rings on the valve stem. If fitted so that
only one of the grooves engages the ringed valve stem, damage will almost certainly
result.

On 350 c.c. the inlet valve head is larger in diameter than the exhaust. Therefore
inlet and exhaust valves are not interchangeable and no mistake can be made
when replacing same in the cylinder head.

On 500 c.c. both valve heads are identical in dimensions but are made of different
materials. Therefore, upon removal, valves should be laid aside so that they
may be identified for re-fitting. In case of doubt, see marking " In " or " Ex "
on top of stem above collet grooves.

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SPARES LIST EDITION CL-18 PRICE 2/6

IS THE APPROPRIATE LIST FOR THIS SERVICE MANUAL

29

REMOVING CARBON DEPOSIT

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Do not use a sharp implement for removing carbon deposit from the interior of the

cylinder head and the piston crown. A blunt piece of soft brass will be found quite
suitable and the use of such will obviate the risk of making deep scratches. Care is

necessary to avoid damaging the valve seatings and in no circumstances should any

abrasive material, such as emery, or emery cloth, be used for cleaning and polishing.

Illustration 10

Showing flywheel in exploded form

VALVE GRINDING

Before commencing valve grinding, carefully examine the face of each valve and, if any
are found to be deeply pitted, have them refaced. (Most garages have suitable equipment
for that purpose.) Any attempt to remove deep pit marks by grinding will inevitably
cause undue and undesirable widening of the seats.

As a rule, inlet valves require very little attention and one light application of fine grinding

paste should be sufficient to restore an even matt finish to both valve face and seat.
The exhaust valves may require two, or even three, applications but, as already mentioned,
excessive grinding is both unnecessary and harmful.

30

The grinding is accomplished by smearing a thin layer of fine grinding paste (obtainable

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ready for use at any garage) on the valve face and then, after inserting the valve in the head,
partially revolve, forwards and backwards, while applying light finger pressure to the head,
raising the valve off its seat and turning to another position after every few movements.

(Never revolve the valve continuously in one direction.)

When the abrasive ceases to bite, remove the valve and examine its face.
The grinding may be considered to be satisfactorily completed when a continuous matt

ring is observed on both valve face and seat.
After grinding, all traces of abrasive must be carefully washed off with petrol and a piece

of rag, moistened in petrol, should be pulled through the bore of each valve guide to
remove any abrasive that may have entered.

A holder for the valve, when grinding in the valve, can be supplied. The part number
is 017482.

TO REPLACE THE CYLINDER HEAD

A gasket is fitted between cylinder head and barrel. (Touring models only).
The top ends of the push rod cover tubes have rubber gaskets between tubes and head,

they are a push fit and metal washers are located between the top edges of the gaskets
and the cylinder head recesses. If the cover tubes are pulled away from the head, the
gaskets will probably remain in position in the head.

It should be noted that a compression plate is a standard fitment on all 500 c.c. machines.
A rubber gland is fitted at the bottom of each cover tube.

Replace the cylinder head by :

Carefully clean the top edge of the cylinder barrel and the under face of the cylinder

head.
Fit the cover tubes, with their rubber gaskets and metal washers, into the cylinder

head.
Place the cylinder head gasket in position on the top edge of the cylinder barrel.
Place a rubber gland round each tappet guide.
Place the cylinder head in position.

Ensure each cylinder head securing bolt has a plain steel washer on it and then replace

the bolts and engage each a few turns.

Finally, screw down the cylinder head securing bolts, in turn, bit by bit, till all are fully
home.

Replace

The sparking plug, but before doing so it is desirable to coat thread with "Oil Dag" or
graphite paste to prevent seizure upon next removal.

The rocker box, carburetter, exhaust system, and the petrol tank.

NOTE—If old gaskets are re-fitted they must be in an undamaged state otherwise new

must be used.

TO REMOVE THE CYLINDER BARREL AND PlSTON

Remove

The cylinder head.
The four nuts retaining cylinder barrel to crankcase.

Take away

Cylinder barrel. (Ensure piston is not damaged in doing this. Steady piston with hand
as barrel is withdrawn.)

Fill throat of crankcase with clean rag to prevent entry of foreign matter,

31

Remove

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One gudgeon pin circlip. It is immaterial which circlip is removed. Use special pliers

included in tool kit.
Gudgeon pin by pushing it out of piston.
Take away piston.

NOTE—The gudgeon is an easy sliding fit in both piston and connecting rod small-end

bush.

Rings may be removed from a piston by " peeling off" with a knife, or by
introducing behind the rings three pieces of thin steel spaced at 120° from each

other and then sliding off the rings. (Do not scratch the piston.)

TO REPLACE THE PlSTON AND CYLINDER BARREL

All parts must be clean.
Place rings on piston. (Scraper first then the two compression.) (On 500 c.c. models the

top compression ring is chromium plated and is marked on one edge " top " for refitting.)
Smear gudgeon pin with engine oil.

Refit piston by :

Introduce piston over connecting rod, so that slit in piston faces to the front of the

machine.

Introduce gudgeon pin in piston and pass it through connecting rod small-end bush and

centralise it.

Re-fit circlips. (Use special pliers). Use rotary action when bedding circlips in their
grooves and make sure each circlip lies snugly in its groove. This is essential otherwise
considerable damage will result.

Re-fit cylinder barrel by :
Take new cylinder base washer. Coat one side with liquid jointing compound and

apply it to cylinder base. Ensure jointing does not choke any of the cylinder base oil

holes.

Smear cylinder bore and piston with engine oil.

Space piston rings so that the gaps are evenly spaced at 120° to each other.

Remove rag from crankcase throat.
Fit barrel over piston. Ensure each piston ring is fully compressed into its groove,

in turn, as the barrel passes over it.

Replace cylinder barrel holding down nuts, screwing each down, in turn, bit by bit, till

all are fully home.

CAM CONTOUR

On the flanks of the cams are quietening curves which are very slight inclines from the
base circles to the feet of the humps.

Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the tappet ends are on the base circles when checking
valve clearances and valve timing.

It is for this reason valve clearances must be checked when the piston is at the top of its
compression stroke, at which position both tappets are well clear of the quietening
curves.

32

VALVE TIMING

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Inlet valve timing

Inlet valve opens 32° before top dead centre.
Inlet valve closes 63° after bottom dead centre.

Exhaust valve timing

Exhaust valve opens 65° before bottom dead centre.
Exhaust valve closes 30° after top dead centre.

(See page 92 for particulars of special timing disc graduated in degrees.)

Illustration 11

Inlet Camshaft timing marks

(Use mark "2")

When checking the valve timing the tappet clearances must be set to ·016 inch so that

the tappets may be well clear of the quietening curves of the camshafts.
The timing gears are marked to facilitate their replacement.

To re-set the valve timing, by using the marks on the gears, proceed as

follows :—

Turn over the engine till the mark on the small timing pinion (D in Illustration 11) is
in line with the centre of the inlet (rear) camshaft bush. Insert the inlet camshaft so
that the No. 2 mark on it is in mesh with the mark on the small timing pinion (D).

Rotate the engine in a forward direction till the mark on the small timing pinion (D

in Illustration 12) is in line with the centre of the exhaust (front) camshaft bush. Insert

the exhaust camshaft so that the No. 2 mark on it is in mesh with the mark on the small

timing pinion (D).

Illustration 12

Exhaust Camshaft timing

marks

(Use mark "2")

E—A

33

TAPPET ADJUSTMENT

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The top ends of the two long push rods have screwed extensions. These are locked in
position by nuts, thereby providing tappet adjustment.

The correct tappet clearances, on touring models, with valves closed and engine cold,
is NIL (warm engine on competition models). This means the push rods should be free
enough to revolve and, at the same time, there should be no appreciable up and down
play.

Prepare to adjust tappets by :
Set piston to T.D.C.

Remove the three nuts, and fibre washers under them, retaining tappet cover to rocker
box.

Take away cover.
Adjust tappets on all 350 and 500 models by :

With spanners, hold the sleeve C, either valve (Illustration 13) and slacken lock nut B.
Then screw, in or out, the head A until the clearance is nil.

Tighten lock nut B and re-check the clearance.
Treat other valve in like manner.

Illustration 13

Tappet adjustment

Finally

Check adjustments so that, with no up and down movement, the long push rods are free
to revolve when the valves are closed.

Complete adjustment by :

Replace rocker tappet cover taking care to replace the fibre washer that is under each

retaining nut.
Do not over-tighten the nuts because the joint is made with a rubber fillet and undue

pressure is not necessary.
NOTE—In normal conditions tappet adjustment should not be necessary more frequently

The tappet rods are made of Light Alloy, and in manufacture, the sleeve marked C in

illustration 13 is fitted to the bare rod and then the push sleeve and the rod are threaded

to take the adjusting screw marked A.

It will consequently be seen that, contrary to the practice when steel rods are used, it
is not possible to supply and fit sleeve C to an existing Light Alloy rod.

Consequently for 1951 models, the " Push Rod, bare " will only be supplied for spares
purposes complete with sleeve C already fitted and threaded.

than about every five thousand miles or after decarbonising and grinding valves.

If adjustment is found necessary more frequently the cause should be investigated

at once.

34

TO RE-TIME THE IGNITION

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The maximum advance is ½" (39°).

Have available a stout screwdriver, or an old type tyre lever with turned up end, and a
piece of stout wire 5½" long.

Before setting the ignition firing point it is essential the magneto contact breaker points
are correctly adjusted. Therefore always check these first.

Serious damage may result from the ignition being set too far advanced. (Causing
detonation).

Check contact breaker points by :

Remove contact breaker cover.

Check setting of contact breaker points, and, if necessary, re-set same.

Set ignition firing point by :

Remove :—
The sparking plug high tension cable from plug.
The sparking plug.

The magneto chain case cover.
The rocker box tappet cover.

Unscrew, several turns, nut retaining magneto sprocket to camshaft. (No need to remove

nut).

Lever off sprocket until it is loose on the taper of the shaft. (Use stout screw-driver

or old type tyre lever.)

Turn over engine till both valves are closed.

Insert rod through sparking plug hole, feel piston, by rocking engine forwards or

backwards till it is felt the piston is at the top of its stroke.

Mark rod flush with top face of sparking plug hole. Remove rod and measure ½" above

the flush mark and record position on rod.

Place handlebar ignition control lever in fully advanced position.

Replace rod in sparking plug hole.

Slightly rotate engine BACKWARDS until upper mark on rod is flush with top face

of sparking plug hole. (To rotate engine, engage top gear and turn back wheel by hand.)

Rotate sprocket on magneto armature shaft, in anti-clockwise direction (as seen from

sprocket end of magneto), till the contact breaker points are just about to separate.

(To find the exact moment for the commencement of the point separation, place a piece

of tissue paper between the points and turn the armature shaft (by the sprocket on it)

until the paper is just released, and no more, upon a gentle pull.)
Tighten nut on camshaft and ensure engine, and/or magneto shaft, does not move in

doing so.

Re-check the setting which must be ½" before top dead centre. (With the ignition
handlebar control lever in the fully advanced position.)

See page 92 for particulars of special timing disc graduated in degrees.

Replace

Rocker box tappet cover, Contact breaker cover, Magneto chain case cover, Sparking
plug (see note on page 37 re graphite on sparking plug thread), and Sparking plug wire.

35

Illustration 14

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The rotating oil pump plunger is here shown partially with­drawn, together with the guide screw which registers in the
plunger profiled groove, thereby providing the recipro-

cating movement

(By courtesy of " Motor Cycling ")

DOWEL PEG, LOCATING TIMING GEAR

1

COVER.

2

BUSH, FOR INLET CAMSHAFT.
PLUNGER, FOR OIL PUMP.

3

BOLT, FIXING REAR END CAP.

4

5

BOLT, FIXING REAR END CAP.
REAR END CAP, FOR OIL PUMP.

6

TAPPED HOLE, FOR PIPE RETURNING

7

OIL TO OIL TANK.

TAPPED HOLE, FOR PIPE FEEDING OIL TO

8

OIL PUMP.

9

TAPPED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE

CRANKCASE DRAIN PLUG.
CRANKCASE, TIMING SIDE.

10

GUIDE SCREW AND PIN, FOR OIL PUMP

11

PLUNGER.
PLUG SCREW, FOR OIL PASSAGE.

12

PLUG SCREW, FOR OIL PASSAGE.

13

BUSH, FOR TIMING SIDE FLYWHEEL

14

AXLE.

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE OIL PUMP PLUNGER

Remove

Lower end of rocker box oil feed pipe by unscrewing union nut.
Both oil pump end caps.
Oil pump plunger guide screw with pin. (See illustration 14, No. 11.)
Oil pump plunger, by pushing at front and extracting from rear end of its housing.

Replace by :

Reversing above procedure.

36

NOTE—Remember there is a paper washer under each oil pump end cap and, when

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fitting a new paper washer to the front cap, ensure the oil passage in the
front cap is not obstructed by the paper washer.

Make certain that the guide screw pin is correctly located in its groove (cut in
the plunger) before tightening down otherwise serious damage will result when
the engine is revolved. NOTE :—The guide screw pin is inserted in the screw
relieved end first.

OVERSIZE PARTS AND RE-BORING CYLINDER BARREL

Pistons and rings, .020" and .040" larger than standard, are available. These degrees
of oversize make it essential for the cylinder barrel to be re-bored to accommodate them.
We can provide that service at prices quoted in the Spares List.

On the 350 c.c. the cylinder standard bore is 2.7187 ± .0005". The 500 c.c. cylinder
standard bore is 3.250 ± .0005".

When the wear at the top of the barrel reaches .008" the barrel should be bored out
.020" oversize and a new oversize piston and rings fitted.

Crankpin rollers .001" larger than standard can be supplied. We recommend only
skilled mechanics should fit these because it is almost general that the big-end journals
and sleeves require " lapping " to ensure a correct fit.

REMOVE SPARKING PLUG

Always exercise the greatest care to avoid thread seizure when removing a sparking
plug. If any resistance is felt, apply paraffin. Before replacing plug, it is desirable to
coat the thread with "Oil Dag" or Graphite paste. This will guard against seizure
upon subsequent removal.

PUSH ROD COVER TUBES

350 machines are normally not fitted with a compression plate. In that circumstance,
on each push rod cover tube there is one 011087 metal washer, 3/64" thick. This is
located BELOW the rubber top gasket. Also a similar washer is fitted on the top of the
rubber top gasket.

The compression plate 014839 can be fitted to the Competition 350 engines. This plate

is z 88·5 ot 1 ot 53·6 morf oitar noisserpmoc eht secuder neht siht dna ssenkciht ni ”
to 1, and when such a plate is fitted there is an additional 011087 metal washer fitted
on the top of the rubber top gasket, making a total of two in that location on each
cover tube.

All 500 c.c. engines are fitted with a compression plate which is 8" in thickness, and
each push rod cover tube then has one 011087 metal washer, 3/64" thick, located below
the rubber top gasket and one 014603 metal washer, 8" thick, located over the rubber
top gasket.

If, for any reason, the compression plate is dispensed with (increasing the compression
ratio from 6·00 to 1 to 7·24 to 1) the 014603 washer on the top of each rubber top gasket
is replaced with one 011087 metal washer, 3/64" in thickness.

37

Illustration 15

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Showing the mixing chamber with details of the pilot jet
with its air adjusting screw and the throttle stop screw

38

CARBURETTER SERVICE

The information given in this section includes all that will normally be required by the
average rider. For further details, particularly those connected with racing and the use
of special fuels, we refer the enquirer to the manufacturers of the carburetter, Messrs.

Amal Ltd., Holford Works, Perry Barr, Birmingham.

Our Spare Parts Department does not stock every part of the carburetter but confines
its stock to those parts that, from time to time, may need replacement as the result
of wear. Those parts include floats and float needles, jet taper needles, needle jets and
washers.

CARBURETTER FUNCTION

The petrol level is maintained by a float and needle valve and, in no circumstances,
should any alteration be made to this. In the event of a leaky float, or a worn needle
valve, the part should be replaced with new. (Do not attempt to grind a needle to its
seat.)

The petrol supply to the engine is controlled, firstly, by the main jet and, secondly, by
means of a taper needle (see 6, Illustration 15) which is attached to the throttle valve and
operates in a tubular extension of the main jet.

The main jet controls the mixture from three-quarters to full throttle, the adjustable
taper needle from three-quarters down to one-quarter throttle, the cut-away portion
of the intake side of the throttle valve from one-quarter down to about one-eighth
throttle, and a pilot jet, having an independently adjusted air supply, takes care of the
idling from one-eighth throttle down to the almost closed position. These various stages
of control must be kept in mind when any adjustment is contemplated. (See 18, Illustra­tion 15, for location of the pilot jet air adjustment screw.) The pilot jet consists
of a small hole drilled in the choke, or jet block.

The size of the main jet should not be altered save for some very good reason. See
" DATA " for details of standard sizes of jet, throttle valve, and jet taper needle.
With the standard setting it is possible to use nearly full air in all conditions, except,
perhaps, when the engine is pulling hard up hill or is on full throttle, when some benefit
may be obtained by slightly closing the air control.

Weak mixture is always indicated by popping, or spitting, at the air intake.
A rich mixture usually causes bumpy, or jerky, running and, in cases of extreme richness,

is accompanied by the emission of black smoke from the exhaust.

See Illustration 15

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9
10

SPRING CLIP, LOCKING THE FIXING RING.
CABLE ADJUSTER, FOR BODY TOP.
SCREW, SECURING LOCKING CLIP TO

BODY TOP.
TOP, FOR MIXING BODY.
RING, FIXING TOP TO MIXING BODY.
TAPER NEEDLE, FOR NEEDLE JET (TOP

NOTCHED END SHOWN).
MIXING BODY.
CLIP, LOCATING JET TAPER NEEDLE.
AIR BALANCE PASSAGE.
PASSAGE TO AL LOW MIXTURE FROM

THE PILOT JET MIXING CHAMBER TO
PASS TO THE CARBURETTER MAIN BORE
AND THENCE TO THE INLET PORT OF
THE ENGINE.

11

12
13
14

15

16
17
18
19
20
21

THREADED HOLE, TO ACCOMMODATE
PILOT JET AIR ADJUSTING SCREW (18).

FIBRE WASHER, FOR HOLDING BOLT.
PART OF FLOAT CHAMBER.
BOLT, HOLDING FLOAT CHAMBER TO

MIXING BODY.
PLUG SCREW, FOR PETROL PASSAGE IN

FLOAT CHAMBER.
UNION NUT, FOR MIXING BODY BASE.
LOCK NUT, FOR PILOT JET AIR SCREW.
SCREW, FOR PILOT JET AIR ADJUSTMENT,
STOP SCREW, FOR THROTTLE.
LOCK NUT, FOR THROTTLE STOP SCREW.

RING, FIXING TOP TO MIXING BODY.

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39

CARBURETTER ADJUSTMENT

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To ascertain if the setting is correct, a rough test Is to warm up the engine and, with the
ignition fully retarded and the air about three-quarters open, gradually open the throttle
to full open, during which the engine should respond without a misfire, but, upon a
sudden opening of the throttle, it should splutter and stop. (The engine should not be
run for more than a few seconds with the ignition fully retarded.)

To check the setting of the pilot jet and its air control, warm up the engine, then, with
the ignition about two-thirds advanced and the air about three-quarters open, the engine
should idle positively and evenly when the throttle is almost closed. If it fails to do so,
adjust the pilot jet air screw (18, Illustration 15) inwards, or outwards, until even firing
is obtained. (The pilot jet air screw is at the base of the mixing chamber and its position
is locked by a nut. See 17 and 18, illustration 15.) This adjustment is not unduly
sensitive, and it should be possible to obtain the correct adjustment in a few seconds.
In the event of the adjustment of the air screw failing to provide the required result it
is possible the pilot jet is obstructed with dirt. The pilot jet is actually a passage drilled
in the sprayer base, or choke, and is very small, so there is always latent danger of this
becoming choked.

Upon removing the float chamber and the large nut at the bottom of the mixing chamber,
the sprayer base can be pushed out of the mixing chamber and the jet can be cleared by
using a strand of fine wire.

Before concluding that incorrect carburation is responsible for heavy petrol consumption,
and before carrying out any of the tests and adjustments described above, it is most
important to make sure the ignition is set correctly. Late ignition usually causes a
great increase in petrol consumption.

TWIST GRIP ADJUSTMENT

A screw is provided in one of the halves of the twist grip body to regulate the spring
tension on the grip rotating sleeve. This screw, which is locked by a nut, must be screwed
into the body to increase the tension.

The most desirable state of adjustment is that when the grip is quite free and easy to
operate but, at the same time, will stay in the position in which it is placed.

The complete twist grip can be moved on the handlebar by slackening the two screws
that clamp together the two halves of the body. The most desirable position is that in
which the throttle cable makes the cleanest and most straight path to the under-side
of the petrol tank.

During assembly, all control inner cables are coated with a graphite lubricant. This lasts
practically indefinitely, but should a new inner wire be fitted this must be similarly
treated during assembly.

AIR FILTER

In locations, such as the United Kingdom, where the roads and atmosphere are
particularly free from dust, it is not considered necessary to have an air filter fitted to
the carburetter, but in countries where the atmosphere contains a very heavy dust
content, an air filter is essential in order to prevent abrasive wear.

The filter we supply as standard for the conditions mentioned above is of the " O il
Wetted " type, and this requires periodical servicing.

When servicing the air filter, withdraw the filter element. Thoroughly wash this in
petrol, paraffin on other suitable solvent and allow to dry. Then re-oil, using one of the
light oils (SAE-20), enumerated in the final table on page 15, and allow to drain before
replacing in the filter case. Clean regularly at intervals of 1,000 miles and renew the
element every 10,000 miles.

40

CARBURETTER TUNING INFORMATION

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Poor idling may be due to :

Air leaks. Either at junction of carburetter and inlet port, or by reason of badly worn

inlet valve stems or guides.

Faulty engine valve seatings.
Sparking plug faulty, or its points set too closely.
Ignition advanced too much.
Contact breaker points dirty, pitted, loose, or set too closely.

High-tension wire defective.
Pilot jet not operating correctly.
Rockers adjusted too closely.

Heavy petrol consumption may be due to :
Late ignition setting.

Bad air leaks. Probably at carburetter joint.

Weakened valve springs.

Leaky float. (Causing flooding.)
Taper needle extension insufficient.
Poor compression, due to worn piston rings or defective valve seatings. (Test

compression with throttle wide open.)

Illustration 16

The Transmission of power, or drive, through the gears may easily be

traced on above illustration.

F—A

41

TRANSMISSION SERVICE

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THE GEAR BOX

The gear box provides four speeds and has a positive foot change, operated by the right
foot, and a kick-starter.

It is retained to the frame by being clamped between the two engine rear plates by two

bolts. The bottom fixing bolt acts as a pivot. The top fixing bolt passes through the
gear box top lug and the rear plates, which are slotted, thereby allowing a swinging fore
and aft movement of the gear box to enable the front driving chain to be adjusted. That

movement is controlled by a bolt that has an eye encircling the gear box top fixing bolt
and which passes through an eye block secured to the right-hand side engine rear plate.
Two nuts threaded on the eye bolt, one on each side of the eye block, provide means of
accurately tensioning the front chain and, after that adjustment, locking the eye bolt
in its required position.

The Spring Frame Competition machines are fitted with the B.A. type gear boxes.

These vary in detail (principally in respect to dimensions), from the gear boxes fitted to

all the other models, but the transmission of power through the gears and all the other

information given in this section is equally applicable.

TRANSMISSION OF POWER THROUGH THE GEARS

(See Illustration 16.)

First, or lowest, gear

Sliding gear (C) on mainshaft (T) is in mid-way position, i.e., disengaged from gears

B and D.

Layshaft sliding clutch (W) moves to right and engages with gear (G). Power passes
through clutch A, to mainshaft T, to mainshaft sliding gear C, to layshaft gear G, to
layshaft clutch V, to layshaft gear E, to main gear B, to chain sprocket J.

Second gear

Sliding gear (C), on mainshaft, is in mid-way position, i.e., disengaged from gears B and D.

Layshaft sliding clutch (W) moves to left and engages with gear (F).

Power passes through clutch A, to mainshaft T, to mainshaft sliding gear C, to layshaft

gear F, to layshaft clutch W, to layshaft V, to layshaft gear E, to main gear B, to chain

sprocket J.

Third gear

Sliding clutch (W), on layshaft, is in mid-way position, i.e., disengaged from gears F and G.

Mainshaft sliding gear (C) moves to right and engages with gear D.

Power passes through clutch A, to mainshaft T, to mainshaft sliding gear C, to mainshaft

gear D, to layshaft gear H, to layshaft V, to layshaft gear E, to main gear B, to chain
sprocket J.

Fourth, or top gear

Sliding clutch (W), on layshaft, is in mid-way position, i.e., disengaged from gears F and G.

Mainshaft sliding gear (C) moves to left and engages with main gear B.

Power passes through clutch A, to mainshaft T, to mainshaft sliding gear C, to main gear B,
to chain sprocket J.

NOTE—Clutch A is connected to the engine sprocket by the front driving chain and chain

sprocket J is connected to the rear wheel by the rear driving chain.

42

TO REMOVE FRONT CHAINCASE AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

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To remove outer half of front chaincase

Place tray under chaincase to catch oil.
Remove exhaust pipe and silencer, as one unit.
Remove nut on left end of footrest rod, push rod towards the right hand side of machine

sufficiently to allow footrest for left foot to be disengaged.
Slide footrest arm to one side or completely take away.
Remove screw binding chaincase metal band at its rear.
Remove metal band.
Remove rubber band.
Remove nut and washer, in centre of chaincase front.
Take away outer half of chaincase.

To remove front driving chain and clutch assembly

Engage top gear, apply rear brake, and unscrew engine sprocket nut.
Unscrew the nuts retaining the clutch springs.
Take away the clutch spring pressure plate with the clutch springs and clutch spring cups,

and flatten the turned up part of the lock washer that is under the large central nut.
Remove front chain connecting link and take away chain.
Engage top gear, apply rear brake, and unscrew nut retaining the clutch centre to the

gear box mainshaft.
Remove the lock and plain washers from gear box mainshaft.
Remove complete clutch assembly by pulling it away, as one unit from gear box mainshaft.
Take care not to lose any of the twenty-four clutch sprocket bearing rollers which may

be displaced when the clutch centre and sprocket assembly is withdrawn from the main­shaft. The clutch centre is a sliding fit on the mainshaft and an extractor should not be
required.

To remove dynamo chain and back half of chaincase

Remove the spring lock ring on dynamo sprocket retaining nut.
Take away lock washer surrounding dynamo sprocket nut.
Apply spanner (017254, included in tool kit) to the two flats on the back of the dynamo

sprocket and, holding same, unscrew the nut retaining the dynamo sprocket.
Release dynamo sprocket with suitable extractor.
Take away, as one assembly, the dynamo sprocket, dynamo chain and engine shock

absorber assembly. (The dynamo chain is " endless.")
Straighten tabs on lock washers under the three bolts retaining the back half of chaincase

to the boss on the crankcase and remove the three bolts.
Remove the long headed bolt (under battery carrier) fixing rear chain guard to front

chaincase.
Remove nut on centre fixing bolt, and spacer behind it, and back half of chaincase can be

taken away.

43

TO RE-FIT THE FRONT CHAINCASE AND CLUTCH

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Fit back half of front chaincase by :
Place on face of crankcase boss and back face of chaincase some liquid jointing compound.
Ensure the spacer is in position on the centre fixing bolt. This is located between

the engine plate and the chaincase. (It is 1-13/32" long.)
Place in position rear half of front chaincase.
Fit long headed bolt, holding rear chain guard to front chaincase, but do not fully tighten.
Fit to crankcase boss the three lock washers and bolts retaining case to boss.
Fully tighten the three bolts and turn up the tabs of the three lock washers.
Fit spacer (inside chaincase, d" long) to the centre fixing bolt.
Fit nut to centre fixing bolt and fully tighten.
Fully tighten long headed bolt holding rear chain guard to front chaincase.

Fit dynamo sprocket and chain and engine shock absorber by :
Ensure dynamo sprocket key is in position (in dynamo armature shaft.)

Ensure the spacing collar, which fits between crankcase ball bearing and the back of the
engine sprocket, is in position on the driving side flywheel axle.

Take dynamo driving chain and place it round the small sprocket of the engine sprocket
assembly and the sprocket that fits on the dynamo shaft and fit these three parts, in one
movement, to the driving side flywheel axle and the dynamo shaft.

Fit the dynamo shaft plain washer and sprocket retaining nut, screwing nut with fingers
only.

Hold the dynamo sprocket by applying spanner 017254 to the flats on the back of the
sprocket and fully tighten the sprocket retaining nut. (This holding relieves the
dynamo shaft of all bending and twisting strains while the sprocket retaining nut is being
tightened.)

Fit the dynamo sprocket retaining nut lock washer and lock ring. Ensure the lock ring
lies snugly in the groove cut in the nut.

Fit engine shock absorber cam, spring, cap washer and retaining nut but do not fully
tighten nut.

Fit the clutch centre and sprocket by :
Place on the gear box main shaft the thicker of the two clutch sprocket roller bearing

retaining washers.
Place on the gear box main shaft the clutch sprocket roller bearing ring.
With grease, stick in place on the bearing ring the twenty-four clutch sprocket bearing

rollers.
Introduce clutch sprocket over the rollers.
Place on the gear box main shaft the thin clutch bearing retaining washer.
Push on the splined end of the gear box main shaft the clutch centre.
Fit the plain washer, lock washer and nut that retains the clutch centre but do not

fully tighten the nut.

44

Fit the front chain and lock the clutch centre nut by :

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Replace the front driving chain. Ensure the spring connecting link is fitted so that the
closed end of the spring clip faces the direction of rotation.

Engage top gear, apply the rear brake and then fully tighten the nut that retains the clutch
centre to the gear box mainshaft.

Turn up the edge of the lock washer so that it tightly abuts against a flat of the nut.

Fit the clutch plates and springs by :
Slide into position, in the clutch case attached to the clutch sprocket, a steel plain

clutch plate. (On 350 touring models the first plate must be the one extra thick plate,
ensure the recessed part of the steel plate faces to the clutch centre and thereby
overhangs the flange of the clutch centre.)

Slide into place a clutch friction plate (plate with fabric inserts) and follow with a steel

plain plate, then another friction plate and so on, alternatively, till all plates are fitted.

(Five plain plates and four friction plates on 350 c.c. ; six plain, and five friction on
500 c.c. and all competition models.)

Drop into the spring pressure plate the clutch spring cups.
Show up the spring pressure plate and insert over the studs the clutch springs, retaining

each one a few turns, as fitted, with a clutch spring adjusting nut.
Fully tighten the clutch spring adjusting nuts.
Slacken back, four complete turns, each clutch spring adjusting nut. (An old and broad

screwdriver, specially slotted on the engaging edge, is the most suitable tool for clutch
spring adjustment.)

Engage top gear, apply rear brake and then fully tighten the engine shock absorber
retaining nut.

Check front driving chain for adjustment.
Check dynamo driving chain for adjustment.

Fit outer half of front chaincase by :
Ensure faces of both halves of chaincase are clean.

Take off, from the rear brake rod, the adjusting knurled nut.
Ensure the rubber and metal bands are clean and undamaged.
A new type of rubber band is now used and this has a "T" section. It is not symmetrical

and the wider top flange or edge should be outwards.
Apply the rubber band by placing the narrow edge on the rear portion of the chaincase,

arranging it so that the join in the band occurs just to the rear of the battery carrier, and
applying the band first of all to the extreme forward edge of the chaincase.

Fully depress the brake pedal and then place in position the front half of the chaincase,

moving it as may be necessary to ensure its outer edges snap under the exposed part of
the rubber band, and then fit to the centre fixing bolt the plain washer and nut, tightening
the nut fully home.

Fit the metal band, starting at the front end of the chaincase and drawing together the
two free ends of the band with one hand while, with the other hand, replacing its binding

screw.
Fully tighten the metal band binding screw.

Remove the inspection cap from the chaincase and pour in engine oil to the level of the
bottom edge of the inspection cap orifice and then replace the cap.

NOTE—If, after replacing a front chaincase, it is found not to be oil tight, the general

reason is distortion of the two joint faces. These faces must be undamaged and,
on test, should closely fit to a surface plate. They must also be absolutely
clean before replacement and the edges must be in exact register, one with
the other. Any distortion caused by accidental impact must be remedied

before refitting.
If any doubt exists, CHECK for DISTORTION BEFORE ASSEMBLY.

45

THE CLUTCH (See Illustration 17)

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It should be noted that, although the basic design of the clutch fitted to 1951 models

is identical to the 1950 and earlier models, most parts have been revised in detail design,

and those parts are not interchangeable with those of previous years.

Clutch operating lever A is moved in direction of arrow to disengage the clutch.

Operation of clutch handlebar lever moves lever A in direction of arrow and causes it

to press against operating plunger B, which, in turn, presses against steel ball C, against

the clutch thrust rod D which pushes against the clutch spring pressure plate F.

This action compresses the clutch springs M so that their pressure is released from

compressing the clutch plain plates G and the clutch friction plates H, thereby allowing

the engine to drive the clutch sprocket L without imparting power, and motion, to the

gear box mainshaft T. Consequently no power is transmitted to the rear wheel and the

clutch is said to be " out " or free.

On allowing the clutch handlebar lever to return to its normal position the clutch operat-

ing lever becomes " free " and the clutch spring pressure causes the clutch thrust rod D,

the steel ball C and the operating plunger B to move to the right.

The whole of the clutch spring pressure is thereby transferred to the clutch spring pressure

plate F and this forces the steel plates G tightly against the clutch friction plates H so that

power, transmitted by the engine to clutch sprocket L, is transferred through clutch

case J to friction plates H, to steel plates G, to clutch centre E which causes the gear box

mainshaft to revolve.

Illustration 17

Showing clutch, gear box main shaft and clutch operating mechanism

CLUTCH SPRING ADJUSTMENT

If clutch slip is experienced the most probable cause is incorrect cable adjustment.

If the clutch cable adjustment is found to be correct, i.e., there is the clearance of Q inch

mentioned in the following paragraph, the clutch spring adjustment nuts should be adjusted.

To adjust clutch spring adjustment nuts :

Obtain access to clutch spring adjustment nuts by removing outer half of front chaincase.

Screw home one-half of a complete turn, each clutch spring adjustment nut and then test

for clutch slip.

If necessary, repeat, by screwing home a further half-turn but be careful to adjust each

of the nuts a similar amount.

46

If, to remedy clutch slip, it is necessary to screw nearly home the five nuts, this is a clear

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indication that, either the clutch springs have lost their strength, and/or, the fabric
inserts in the clutch friction plates have worn so that they are past further useful service.
In which case, replace with new.

The standard setting of the clutch spring adjusting nuts is obtained by fully tightening
all five nuts and then unscrewing each exactly four complete turns.

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT

Minor adjustment of the clutch operating mechanism is obtained by screwing, in or out,
the clutch cable adjuster located in the back of the kick-starter case.

Major adjustment of the clutch operating mechanism is obtained by altering the position
of the fulcrum pin of the clutch operating lever in the kick-starter case. (Lever A in
Illustration 17 and 175-X-4 in Illustration 18.)

The Major adjustment is explained below.
175-X-4 is the gear box clutch operating lever, and 66-X-7 is the pin on which it hinges.
329-X is the operating lever fork and this slides in the kick-starter case cover, its position

being determined by the sleeve nut 331-X,
Cap 328-X is secured to the outside of the kick-starter case cover, being fixed by the

two screws 333-X and acts as a locking device for the sleeve nut 331-X.
It is essential that there is about Q" clearance between the operating plunger 330-X

and the nose on operating lever 175-X-4 when the clutch is in the engaged, or driving,
position. This clearance is easily checked by removing the filler cap when it should be
possible, with finger pressure only, to move the clutch withdrawal lever 175-X-4, the
top end of which lies just beneath the filler cap orifice, about W" to and fro. This
amount of free movement at the extreme tip represents approximately the clearance of
Q " specified above.

It will be appreciated that, as the result of wear on the fabric inserts in the clutch friction
plates, the plates will tend to close up towards each other. This increases the effective
length of the clutch thrust rod. On the other hand, the clutch control inner wire tends
to stretch in use. These two actions will neutralise each other but the fact remains that,
from time to time, it is necessary to adjust the rod clearance and also take up cable stretch.
Clutch slip caused by the clutch thrust rod permanently bearing on the spring pressure
plate will rapidly ruin the fabric inserts and thrust rod. In addition, the heat generated
by this may be so intense that the hardening of the clutch springs and the two ends of
the thrust rod may be adversely affected.

Therefore, the importance of correct adjustment, and inspection of same to see the
adjustment is maintained, must be stressed.

Obtain adjustment of clutch mechanism by :
Remove the two screws 333-X.

Take away the cap 328-X.
Adjust the sleeve nut 331-X as may be necessary, as follows :
To increase clearance between clutch operating lever 175-X-4 and operating plunger

330-X, turn sleeve nut in a right-hand, or clockwise, direction.
To decrease clearance between clutch operating lever 175-X-4 and operating plunger

330-X, turn sleeve nut in a left-hand, or anti-clockwise, direction.
One or two turns should be ample.
Replace cap and screws.

47

Illustration 18

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Details of clutch operating lever

LEVER, OPERATING CLUTCH.

175-X-4

67-X

330-X

66-X-7

329-X

BALL (STEEL), FOR OPERATING
PLUNGER.
OPERATING PLUNGER.

PIN, OR AXLE, FOR OPERATING
LEVER.

FORK, FOR OPERATING LEVER.

331-X
328-X
333-X

SLEEVE, OR NUT, FOR OPERATING
LEVER FORK.

CAP, COVERING SLEEVE (SCREWED
TO KICK-STARTER CASE COVER).

SCREW, FIXING CAP TO KICK­STARTER CASE COVER.

CLUTCH CABLE ADJUSTMENT

Minor adjustment of the clutch operating mechanism is obtained by :

Slacken lock nut on the cable adjuster screwed into the back of the kick-starter case.
To decrease the effective length of the clutch control cable, i.e., to take up play between

the control and the clutch thrust rod, unscrew the cable adjuster from the kick-starter

case. A few turns should be ample.

To provide a greater amount of play, screw into the kick-starter case the cable adjuster.

Finally, tighten lock nut on cable adjuster.
NOTE—The amount of play, or free movement, can easily be discovered by virtue of the

To remove a clutch control cable

Remove the oil filler cap from the kick-starter case cover.
Screw right home the clutch cable adjuster that is located in the back of the kick-starter

case.

Disengage, from the operating lever, the clutch cable inner wire by operating through
the oil filler cap opening.

Completely unscrew the clutch cable adjuster.
Disengage, from the handlebar operating control lever, the clutch inner wire.
Pull cable, by its lower end, till removed from the machine, easing it through the frame

cable clips while doing so.

greatly increased resistance of the handlebar clutch control lever as the de­clutching action commences.

To replace a clutch control cable

Reverse the above instructions and, finally, adjust as detailed in the previous paragraph.

48

FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTMENT

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Tighten the front chain by :
Slacken : Nut on right-hand side of gear box top fixing bolt.

Nut on right-hand side of gear box bottom fixing bolt.
Forward nut on the adjusting eye-bolt. (Two or three turns.)

Remove inspection cap from front chaincase.
Screw up the rear nut on adjusting eye-bolt until, with the finger through the inspection

cap orifice, it can be felt that the chain is dead tight. Then slack off the rear nut and

carefully tighten the forward nut until the correct chain tension is obtained, after which
securely tighten the rear nut to lock the assembly. (The correct chain whip is a inch.)

Check the adjustment in more than one position and adjust, as above, at tightest place.

It is important that these instructions to over-tighten and then slack back

are carefully followed.

Tighten nuts on gear box top and bottom fixing bolts.

Replace chaincase inspection cap.

REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT (Spring Frame Models)

To provide rear chain adjustment the rear wheel is bodily moved in the rear frame fork
ends which are open ended and slotted.

The rear wheel centre spindle has two cams attached to it. These cams abut against
projections in each of the rear fork two slotted ends. The projection on the right-hand
fork end is adjusted at the Factory and its position is locked by a nut. That adjustment
is provided to ensure the rear wheel is positioned in line with the front wheel and,
once it has been determined during assembly, there should be no necessity ever to alter
it again.

The chainside cam has a hexagonal body to accommodate a spanner and is turned, for­wards or backwards, to position the rear wheel so that the rear driving chain is correctly
tensioned. (Both cams turn together.)

The correct chain tension is such that, when the machine is on the centre stand, finger

pressure applied to the chain, midway between gear box sprocket and rear wheel
sprocket, in an upward and downward direction, allows a total movement, up and down,
of 18". The rear wheel should be rotated to several positions and tests made at each,
because chains never wear evenly and there is usually one position where the chain is
tighter than in any other. The adjustment of 18" total whip should be set for the tightest

position found.
(When off the stand, and with the rider on the saddle, this measurement is reduced to

about ½" total whip, which is the correct adjustment when on the road.)

To adjust the rear chain

Place the machine on the centre stand.
Slacken nut to right of speedometer gear box.
Slacken exterior nut on left-hand end of rear wheel spindle.

Push forward the wheel so that both cams are in contact with the projections on the

rear fork ends.
Apply adjustable wrench 017249 to hexagonal body of chainside cam, and, while

maintaining a forward pressure on the wheel, to ensure contact of the two cams, turn,
with the wrench, until the chain whip of 18", detailed above, is obtained. Then holding
the wheel in that position, fully re-tighten the spindle exterior nut.

Finally, fully tighten the nut to the right of the speedometer gear box after being satisfied
that the gear box is in such a position that no strain is being placed on the driving cable.

49

REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT (Rigid Frame Models)

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To provide rear chain adjustment the rear wheel is bodily moved in the frame fork ends,
which are open ended and slotted.

Tighten rear chain by :
Place machine on rear stand.
Slightly slacken nuts on rear wheel solid spindle (left side first).
Slacken nut on each chain adjusting bolt, two or three turns. (These bolts screw into

forward end of each frame fork end.)
Screw, in turn, each chain adjusting bolt, further into the fork ends until the chain

tension is correct. Each bolt must be turned the same amount. The chain whip should
be a" to ½".

Check adjustment, in more than one position, by partly revolving the rear wheel.
Tighten wheel spindle nuts.
Re-check chain tension.
Tighten nuts on chain adjusting bolts.

NOTES ON REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT

Before tightening the rear chain, check the front chain adjustment, and, if attention is
necessary, adjust the front chain first.

Altering the adjustment of the front chain upsets the adjustment of the rear chain.
Therefore, after making a front chain adjustment, always check the rear chain adjustment
and re-set if necessary.

Altering the adjustment of the rear chain may upset the adjustment of the rear brake.
Therefore, after making a rear chain adjustment, always check the brake adjustment
and re-set if necessary.

The whip of chains should always be tested mid-way between the two sprockets, and the
sprockets should be turned and tests made in several positions. This is because chains
never wear evenly, and there is usually one position where the chain is tighter than in
any other. The adjustment should be set for the tightest position found.

Always re-check the chain tension after making it and tightening all bolts and nuts.

DYNAMO CHAIN ADJUSTMENT

The dynamo armature shaft is eccentric to the body of the dynamo. Therefore, by
partially revolving the dynamo in its housing the distance between the two dynamo
driving sprockets can be varied, thereby allowing latitude for chain adjustment.

Tighten dynamo chain by :
Remove inspection cap from front chaincase.
Slacken dynamo clamping strap bolt.
Apply spanner 017254 to the flats cast on the dynamo end plate (left-hand side of

dynamo) and rotate dynamo, in an anti-clockwise direction till, by passing a finger
through the inspection cap opening, it can be felt the chain tension is correct.

The chain whip should be about ¼". Ensure, when feeling tension, the front driving
chain is not confused with the dynamo chain which lies behind the front driving chain.

Tighten dynamo clamping strap bolt.
Re-check chain tension.
Replace chaincase inspection cap.

50

MAGNETO CHAIN ADJUSTMENT

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The magneto platform hinges on one of its fixing bolts. This provides sufficient move­ment for adjustment to the magneto driving chain.

Tighten magneto chain by :
Remove magneto chain case cover.
Slacken nuts on bolts supporting magneto platform.
Insert a screwdriver under that end of the magneto platform which is slotted and lever

upwards until the chain tension is correct.

The chain whip should be about ¼".
Tighten nuts on platform supporting bolts.

Re-check chain tension.
Place supply of grease on magneto driving chain.
Replace magneto chain cover.

ENGINE SHOCK ABSORBER

The engine shock absorber is a spring device for smoothing out the impulses transmitted
by the engine.

The engine sprocket is a free fit on the driving side flywheel axle. It has, integral with it,
a face cam that engages with a similar face cam (" shock absorber cam ") which is keyed

to the driving side flywheel axle by splines. A spring keeps the shock absorber cam in

close engagement with the cam on the sprocket, and, the shock absorber cam being

driven by the engine, over-rides the sprocket cam under the influence of the engine

impulses. The shock absorber spring is compressed by the over-riding of the cams,
thereby absorbing the shocks.

It is essential the faces of the cams are adequately lubricated otherwise the shock absorbing

action will be nullified and this is automatically taken care of, providing the level of the

oil in the front chaincase is maintained according to the instructions given in the

" Lubrication Section."

The shock absorber spring is retained by a cap washer and a retaining nut which must

be fully tightened.

The dynamo sprocket is integral with the engine sprocket.

Behind the engine sprocket (between the sprocket and the crankshaft roller bearing)
is a spacing collar which is a sliding fit on the driving side flywheel axle and in no circum­stances must this be omitted.

NOTE—At the first sign of transmission harshness examine front chaincase for correct

oil level, and dismantle and lubricate the shock absorber parts if the harshness
continues. For access to the shock absorber parts it is necessary to remove
the outer half of the front chaincase.

The order of assembly of the engine shock absorber is

1

The spacing collar between the crankshaft roller bearing and the engine sprocket.

2

The engine sprocket.

3

The shock absorber cam.

4

The shock absorber spring.

5

The cap washer.

6

The retaining nut.

51

FORK & FRAME SERVICE

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STEERING HEAD ADJUSTMENT

The steering head frame races are of the floating self-aligning type and have spherical seats.
Therefore they do not fit tightly in the head lug.

Occasionally test the steering head for correct adjustment by exerting pressure upwards
from the extreme ends of the handlebars.

It is particularly important that the adjustment is tested after the first one hundred miles
because of the initial settling down that always occurs in that period.

Should any shake be apparent, adjust the steering head bearings.

Adjust steering head bearings by :
Jack up the front of the machine so that all weight is taken off the front wheel. (A box

under each footrest serves that purpose.)
Slacken the nuts on the two fork crown studs.
Slacken the domed nut at top of the steering column.
Screw down the nut underneath the domed nut a little at a time (using spanner 017255)

and, while doing so, test the head assembly for slackness by placing the fingers over the
gap between handlebar lug and frame top lug, at the same time exerting upward pressure
by lifting from the front edge of the front mudguard.

Continue to tighten the lower adjusting nut until no perceptible movement can be felt

and yet the steering head is perfectly free to turn, then tighten down the domed nut
in order to lock the adjustment.

Tighten the two fork crown pinch stud nuts,

Remove packing from under footrest.

FRONT FORKS (TELEDRAULIC)

Owing to the unusual construction of the " TELEDRAULIC " fork it is desirable to

understand what, happens in use and, in order to follow clearly the descriptions and
subsequent assembly and adjustment instructions, reference to Illustrations 19 and 20
will be necessary.

As will be seen from the general arrangement drawing, Illustration 20, the main members

of the forks are two long tubes. These are of heavy gauge and are externally ground

to very fine limits. These fork main, inner, tubes are firmly fixed to the handlebar

clip lug by the top bolts 016718 and are clamped to the fork crown by the clamping
studs 016320 and nuts 011635. Upon the external of these tubes are mounted the

springs and sliding members, to which latter the front wheel, mudguards and front

stand are fixed.

The telescopic action of the sliders, combined with the hydraulic dampers, described

later, explain the word " Teledraulic " coined for the description of the fork.

52

Introduced in early 1941, for use under strenuous war conditions by all the allied armies,

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it remains unaltered, except in detail, to this day, and copied practically universally. The
hydraulic dampers operate in tubular members located inside the main tubes. As will
be seen the aluminium sliding members operate upon steel bushes attached to the bottom
ends of the main tubes and also upon bakelite bushes, secured to the top end of the
sliders themselves. Above these bushes, an oil seal is fitted, the object of which is to
prevent leakage of oil from below into the main spring chamber. The normal level of
oil is well above the bottom extremity of the main inner tubes and bearing this in mind,

it is at once clear that upward movement of the sliders resulting from impact with road
bumps in addition to meeting resistance from the main springs also causes oil to be ejected
by the close fitting steel bushes. This oil is forced upward through the open ends of the

main inner tubes and also through the holes A (Illustration 19) in the bottom of the
damper tubes, then past the damper disc valve which the passing oil raises off its seat.
As the oil level rises inside the main inner tubes, air trapped is compressed, thereby
forming an air buffer acting as auxiliary to the main springs. This displacement of

oil upon impact imposes a certain amount of damper effect, the extent of which

increases with the violence of the shock, or in other words, the bigger the bump

the greater the damping effect. Upon the recoil movement, the damper disc valve

returns to its seat and the oil trapped between this valve and the plunger sleeve above

Illustration 19

53

has no other source of escape but past this sleeve and the adjacent small metered bleed

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hole. This intentionally restricted passage causes a considerable damper effect to the

recoil action. It will thus be gathered that on the shock movement of the fork, slight
damper action occurs, with a greatly increased damper action on the reverse movement,

both actions automatically increasing in effect the more violent the movement. Before
concluding this description, it should be mentioned that upon a very violent impact, as a

result of which the main springs are almost fully compressed, the damping of the upward

movement of the sliders is intentionally increased by the automatically greatly restricted

passage for the displaced oil, brought about by the lower ends of the main tubes encircling
the tapered enlarged ends of the damper tubes as the sliders near the limit of their up-

ward movement. Thus bottoming is prevented, no matter how violent the impact. For

ordinary purposes the recommended oil content is 6½ ozs. (184·6 c.c.) each leg of one of

the S.A.E. 20 oils specified. To deal with heavier loads than normal, the oil content may

be increased to a permissable maximum of 10 fluid ozs. (284 c.c.) per leg. To increase

damping oil of heavier grade may be used. It will be found, however, that for normal

purposes the recommended grade and quantity of oil will give the most comfortable ride.

FRONT FORK "TOPPING UP"

No part of the TELEDRAULIC Front Fork requires individual lubrication, but it is

advisable to check the oil content, once every five thousand miles. The normal content

as already stated, is 6½ fluid ounces (184·6 c.c.) each side.

Support motor cycle vertically with weight on both wheels. A steady under each foot­rest is the best method.

Unscrew the hexagonal plugs at top of fork inner tubes. These are on level with handle-

bars and attached to them are the damper rods. Have a graduated measure of not less
than 10 fluid ozs. capacity available in which to catch and measure the oil. Remove the
drain plug from the bottom of a slider and catch the oil which drains out. Then reinsert

drain plug and work the top plugs to which damper rods are attached up and down

(pumping action), making upward strokes as violent as possible but using only fingers to

do so. This pumping action is to eject any oil trapped in the damper tubes above the

damper disc valve. Wait two minutes and again remove drain plug. Repeat the action

until no further oil can be drained off when, if the fork had the correct oil content, about

6 fluid ozs. (170·4 c.c.) will have been drained off. If less, add to make this quantity, or

reduce if an excess quantity has been drained off. Next refit drain plug and carefully

pour into the top of the tube being checked exactly 6 fluid ozs. (170·4 c.c), after which

the top plug may be replaced.

NOTE—Although the normal oil content of each side is specified as 6½ fluid ozs., it is not

possible to drain all the oil via the drain plug. This explains the lesser quantity
of 6 fluid ozs. (170·4 c.c.) referred to above. However, if the fork is at any time
completely dismantled and then reassembled in a dry state, it should be noted
that in that event the correct quantity of oil to add to each leg is 6½ fluid ozs.
(184·6 c.c).

TO REMOVE THE COMPLETE FRONT FORK ASSEMBLY

Support the machine with the front wheel clear of the ground. (A box, of suitable

height, under each footrest is the best method.)

Remove front wheel by method described in Wheel Section.
Remove front stand and front mudguard.
Detach the switch panel that is held to the top of the head lamp by three screws.
Disconnect speedometer driving cable from the speedometer head.
Detach the speedometer light bulb with its holder.

Remove the two bolts retaining the head lamp and take same away.
Remove the two bolts retaining the speedometer head and take same away.

Remove the handlebar half clip and lay the handlebars, complete with controls, upon a
pad on top of the petrol tank.

Detach the front brake cable from the forks. (First remove the slotted yoke end and
then completely unscrew the cable adjuster.)

54

Unscrew the hexagon plug on top of each inner tube and slacken the lock nuts securing

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the damper rods attached. Then, before removing the hexagon plugs, attach a piece of

wire about 18 inches long underneath each damper rod lock nut, to enable the damper
rods to be raised for reassembly.

Remove domed lock nut at top of steering column.
Remove lock nut on steering column.
Use a soft mallet to tap upward the handlebar lug until it disengages with the fork stem

(steering column) and the fork assembly can then be withdrawn. (Take care to avoid
loss of the 56 steering head steel balls.)

To re-fit a complete front fork assembly

Stick, with grease, 28 balls in fork crown bail race.
Stick, with grease, 28 balls in main frame top ball race.

Proceed to fit fork assembly by reversing the instructions given above to dismantle,
carefully retightening the damper rod locknuts before inserting the hexagonal headed

plugs to which they are attached.

TO REMOVE A FORK SLIDER (either side)

Support the motor cycle with the front wheel clear of the ground, and unscrew the
tubular slider extension from the slider which it is intended to remove. (Two holes for
the application of a hooked end spanner are provided).

Next remove the front wheel, front stand and mudguard as detailed above. Then with a

thin tubular box key, remove the bolt securing the damper tube. The hexagonal head
of the bolt is sunk in the upper half of the wheel spindle clamp. Place a receptacle under-

neath to catch the oil which will drain out upon removing the bolt, and take care of the

fibre washer located under the head. A sharp jerk downward should now enable the

slider to be withdrawn, but should difficulty be experienced, apply a little heat to the

enlarged top end of the slider. This will cause sufficient expansion to release the oil seal

which is normally a snug push-in fit, in the top of the slider. The re-assembly is carried

out in exactly the reverse order, again if necessary applying a little heat to enable the oil

seal to be pushed down into the slider top before screwing in the slider extension. After

completion, the oil which has escaped MUST be returned via the top. (See Front Fork

"Topping up.")

TO REMOVE A FORK INNER TUBE ASSEMBLY (either side)

First unscrew the hexagonal plug at the top of the inner tube it is intended to remove,
and after slackening the lock nut by which the damper rod is secured to this plug, unscrew
the plug, allowing the rod to fall. Next proceed to remove the slider as already detailed,
except do not disturb the bolt securing the damper tube. This damper tube and pro­truding rod can be removed intact with the slider. Now loosen the fork crown clamping
stud nut when it should be possible to draw the entire inner tube assembly down through
the crown lug. Upon re-assembly, the inner tube is first pushed home as far as possible

by hand and then pulled right home by screwing down the top hexagonal plug. With

this plug tightened down, then proceed to tighten the crown clamping stud nut, after

which the hexagonal plug may be removed and a piece of wire passed down through the

inner tube. Loop the bottom end of this wire underneath the damper rod lock nut.

The slider is then carefully pushed upward while at the same time pulling on the wire

until the top end of the damper rod projects sufficiently to permit the screwed plug to

be attached and secured with the lock nut, after which the wire may be removed. It

may be found necessary to again apply a little heat to enable the oil seal to be pressed

home with the fingers before screwing on the tubular extension.

55

Illustration 20

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56

REF.

www.ajs-matchless.info

PART

NO.

NUMBER

1

013631
016718

2

010709

3

4

010703

5

013694
6
7

000805
8

012569
9

000011

10

011635

11

016784

12
13

017036

14

014341

15
16

003632

17

000485

000203

18
19

013509

20

000011

21

000004

22

010703

013695

23

012569

24
25

016320

000011

26

011635

27
28

017036

29

010702

30

010716

31

013632

32

000485

33
34

000203

35

010713

36

013509

37

000011

000004

38
39

016072

016339

40

017357

41
42

010721

43

016304

44

010719

000005

45

015932

46

010697

47

010706

48
49

010710

50

010692

51
52

010360

015286

53
55

010718

016322

56

014341

57
58

010698

59

016526

60

016148

61

010698

62

010709

63

014355

016718

64

000004

65
66

010701

014278

67
68

000012

69

013629

012870

70

010712

71
72

000236

73

000051

74

LUG, FOR HANDLEBAR A ND STEERING HEAD.
BOLT, TOP, FOR FORK INNER TUBE.
WASHER, PLAIN, FOR FORK INNER TUBE TOP BOLT.
CAP, FOR FORK TOP COVER TUBE, TOP LOC ATION.
TUBE, FORK COVER, TOP, RIGHT WITH LAMP LUG.
STEM, FOR FORK C ROWN (NOT SOLD SEPARATELY).
BALL RACE, FOR FORK CROWN .
CAP, FOR FORK TOP COVER TUBE, BOTTOM LOCA TION.
WASHER, PLAIN, FOR FORK C ROWN PINCH STUD.
NUT, FOR FORK CROWN PINCH STUD.
FORK CROWN (NOT SOLD SEPARATELY).
FORK CROW N ASSEMBLY (CROWN, STEM A ND CIRCLIP).
BOSS, ON FORK CROW N, THREADED TO ACCOMMODATE STEERING DAMPER
PLATE FIXING BOLT.
TUBE, FORK COVER, BOTTOM.
EXTENSION, FOR FORK SLIDER.
SLIDER, FOR FORK, WITH CAP, STUDS AND NUTS.
SCREW, PLUG, FOR FORK SLIDER OIL DRAIN HOLE.
WASHER, FIBRE, FOR FORK SLIDER DRAIN HOLE SCREW.
CAP, FOR FORK SLIDER.
WASHER, PLAIN, FOR FORK SLIDER CAP SECURING STUD.
NUT, FOR FORK SLIDER CAP SECURING STUD.
CAP, FOR FORK TOP COVER TUBE, TOP LOCATION .
TUBE, FORK COVER, TOP, LEFT WITH LAMP LUG.
CAP, FOR FORK TOP COVER TUBE, BOTTOM LOCATION.
STUD, PINCH, FOR FORK CROW N.
WASHER, PLAIN, FOR FORK CROWN PINCH STUD.
NUT, FOR FORK CROWN PINCH STUD.
TUBE, FORK COVER, BOTTOM.
PLATE, PLAIN, LOCATING BOTTOM COVER TUBE.
SCREW, RETAINING BOTH LOCATING PLATES.
HOLES, THREADED, TO ACCOMMODATE BRAKE ANCHOR STAY.
SLIDER, FOR FORK, WITH CAP, STUDS AND NUTS.
SCREW, PLUG, FOR FORK SLIDER OIL DRAIN HOLE.
WASHER, FIBRE, FOR FORK SLIDER DRAIN HOLE SCREW.
STUD, SECURING CAP TO FORK SLIDER.
CAP, FOR FORK SLIDER.
WASHER, PLAIN, FOR FORK SLIDER CAP SECURING STUD.
NUT, FOR FORK SLIDER CAP SECURING STUD.
SLEEVE, PLUNGER, FORK DAMPER ROD.
CLIP, RETAINING DAMPER ROD SLEEVE.
ROD, FOR DAMPER FORK.
PIN, STOP, FOR FORK DAMPER VALVE.
VALVE, FOR FORK DAMPER.
SEAT, FOR FORK DAMPER VALVE.
NU T, LOCK, FOR DAMPER VALVE SEAT.
TUBE, FOR FORK DAMPER.
BOLT, FIXING DAMPER TUBE TO SLIDER.
WASHER, FIBRE, FOR DAMPER TUBE BOLT.
CIRCLIP, FOR INNER TUBE BOTTOM BUSH.
BUSH, BOTTOM, FOR INNER TUBE.
GROOVE, FOR CIRCLIP 010710.
SPRING, BUFFER, FOR FRONT FORK.
BUSH, TOP, PLASTIC, FOR INNER TUBE.
OIL SEAL, FOR INNER TUBE.
TUBE, FORK, INNER.
EXTENSION, FOR FORK SLIDER.
WASHER, LEATHER, FORK SPRING SEATING.
SPRING, MAIN, FOR FRONT FORK.
BUFFER, RUBBER, FORK, INNER TUBE.
WASHER, LEATHER, FORK SPRING SEATING.
WASHER, PLAIN, FOR INNER TUBE TOP BOLT.
RING, SEALING, FOR INNER TUBE TOP BOLT.
PLUG FOR TOP OF INNER TUBE.
NUT, LOCK, TOP END OF DAMPER ROD.
PLATE, THREADED, LOCATING TOP COVER TUBE.
NUT, FOR HANDLEBAR CLIP STUD.
WASHER, PLAIN, FOR HANDLEBAR CLIP STUD.
CLIP (HALF ONLY), FOR HANDLEBAR LUG.
STUD, FOR HANDLEBAR CLIP.
NUT, LOCK (DOMED) FOR FORK STEM.
NUT, ADJUSTING, FOR FORK STEM.
NIPPLE, GREASE, FOR HEAD BALL RACES.
HOLES TO ACCOMMODATE BOLTS FIXING SPEEDOMETER HEAD-

DESCRIPTION

57

REAR SUSPENSION (Spring Frame Models)

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The rear wheel is mounted in a fork that is hinged just behind the gear box. The hinge

has robust plain bearings lubricated from a reservoir of 1½ fluid ounces (42.6 c.c.) of

engine oil which is sufficient to last almost indefinitely. Provision is, however, made for

replenishment should same ever be required. A small screw will be observed in the
right-hand end cap of the hinge bearing, upon removal of this screw, oil can be injected
into the reservoir, the screw orifice operating as a level control.

Illustration 21

Showing rear sprung frame and " TELEDRAULIC " legs

The rear wheel fork is suspended on springs located in the two " TELEDRAULIC "
legs joining the rear of the fork to the main frame rear loops, and the spring action is
damped by hydraulic dampers identical in design to those used in the "TELEDRAULIC"

Front Fork Assembly.

The hydraulic fluid used is one of the grades of oil specified in the Lubrication Section

for use in the " TELEDRAULIC " Front Forks.

The recommended quantity for each leg is 85 c.c. or a trifle under 3 fluid ozs. of S.A.E. 20

grade of one of the brands specified. For abnormal loads, the next heavier S.A.E.
grade may be used, but unlike the front fork, recoil damping as well as maximum load
capacity is increased by this alteration of grade alone, and under no circumstances should
the oil content of each leg exceed 90 c.c. or roughly 38 fluid ozs. Unless serious doubt
exists as to the correct functioning of the rear legs, owners are advised to leave well alone.
Should the need arise, however, the oil content of each leg should be separately checked
as follows :

58

Illustration 22

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Showing " Ghost " view of " TELEDRAULIC " leg

59

To check oil content of " TELEDRAULIC " leg and top-up :

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Dealing with one leg at a time, remove top securing bolt, taking care to observe the
location of the spacing washers on it. Remove bottom securing bolt and take away the
leg.

Using a suitable clamp encircling the outer tube adjacent to the bottom pivot lug, grip
in a vice and loosen the pivot lug. Then holding leg vertically, bottom end uppermost,
carefully remove the loosened pivot lug, and gripping the exposed end of the damper
tube with the fingers, raise and lower several times (pumping action) after which pour
the oil contents into a graduated measure. It may be necessary to repeat the pumping
action to eject oil from underneath the damper valve, and finally the open end of tube
should be supported above the measure and left to drain for several minutes. If the leg
contained the correct amount of oil, 75 c.c. (2s ozs.) should have been drained out into
the graduated measure, leaving 10 c.c. (3 oz.) which cannot be withdrawn. All that now

remains is to pour carefully back into the leg exactly 75 c.c. (2s ozs.) of oil, after which

the pivot lug may again be screwed on and securely tightened down to prevent oil

leakage when the leg is re-fitted, after which the other leg may be dealt with in a similar
manner.

(DEALERS' SERVICE ONLY)

PROP STAND

The prop stand hinges on a bolt which passes through a lug brazed to the frame and screws

into the jaw of the stand leg. It is then locked by a nut and split pin. Care in tightening
this bolt is necessary to avoid pinching, and it is essential to observe after securely
tightening the lock nut that the stand is perfectly free. Smear the hinge bolt with engine
oil before replacing it.

CENTRE STAND (Spring Frame Models)

The centre stand is mounted on a bolt set across the bottom rear of the main frame and is
removed by taking off a nut of the centre bolt and pushing bolt through the frame.

During removal and replacement the stand should be in a horizontal position in order

to take off as much of the tension of the return spring as is possible.

FRONT STAND

The front stand is intended to operate only as a support and care is necessary, when
using, to avoid passing the vertical position. No stops are provided and dragging the

machine backward, with the stands down, is likely to fracture the lugs on the aluminium

sliders of the forks to which the stand is attached.

Do not attempt to use the FRONT STAND unless the machine is already
supported by the centre stand.

REAR STAND (Rigid Frame Models)

A plain steel washer is fitted under the HEAD of each of the two bolts that retain the

rear stand to the fork ends. The washers should NOT be fitted UNDER the nuts

of those bolts.

TO REMOVE OIL TANK AND BATTERY CARRIER

Two studs on the seat tube, one facing to the front, the other facing to the rear, engage
with two right-angle stays on the oil tank and two similar stays on the battery carrier,
and two washers and two nuts, fitted to the studs, retain the oil tank and battery carrier

in position.
Remove oil tank and battery carrier by :

Drain oil tank.
Disconnect negative wire from the battery where it is attached to the seat lug bolt by

a screw.
Disconnect positive wire from the battery at the point, close to the battery, where there

is a double screwed connector. (Pull back the rubber sleeve to reveal the two main
components of the connector. Hold one component in a wrench, or pliers, while the
second component is unscrewed from it.)

60

Remove battery from carrier.

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Disconnect oil feed pipe from bottom of oil tank.
Disconnect oil return pipe from bottom of oil tank.
Disconnect vent pipe from back of oil tank.
Disconnect voltage control unit from carrier side. Only two bolts to remove. No

need to disconnect any of the electric cables.
Remove bolt retaining rear stay from oil tank to rear mudguard.
Remove screw, in base of carrier, retaining carrier to stay that is supported by the front

chaincase.
Remove the two nuts and washers retaining the oil tank and battery carrier to the two

studs.
Oil tank and battery carrier are now free to be taken away and, when doing so it is

necessary to give each a slight rotary movement in order to disengage from the frame studs.
NOTE?—The frame studs are brazed to the frame.

To re-fit

Locate tank and battery carrier on their two fixing studs and, before doing anything
else, fit both oil pipes. Then reverse the instructions given above.

TO REMOVE THE REAR CHAIN GUARD (Spring Frame Models)

Remove the rear wheel. (See Wheel Section.)
Remove the bolt retaining the front end of the chain guard to the rear fork.
Remove the bolt retaining the rear end of the chain guard to the rear fork. (There are

two spacers on this bolt, one is between the two sides of the guard and the other is
between the head of the fixing bolt and the guard.)

TO REMOVE THE REAR CHAIN GUARD (Rigid Frame Models)

Remove

The rear portion of rear mudguard.
The bolt retaining the front, top, end of the chain guard to the front chaincase.
The bolt retaining the front, bottom, end of the chain guard to the rear frame.
The bolt retaining the rear, top, end of the chain guard to the rear frame.
The chain guard is then free to be taken away.

GENUINE A.J.S. SPARES

PURCHASED FROM

AN AUTHORISED "A.J.S." DEALER

OR FROM THE FACTORY, ARE IDENTICAL
WITH THE PARTS ORIGINALLY BUILT

INTO YOUR MOTOR CYCLE

BY USING GENUINE SPARES YOU ARE ASSURED THEY

WILL FIT ACCURATELY AND GIVE SATISFACTORY SERVICE

61

WHEELS AND BRAKES

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TO REMOVE FRONT WHEEL

Place machine on both stands.
Remove the split pin, and pin, retaining yoke end of front brake cable to the brake

expander lever.
Remove bolt retaining brake anchor stay to brake cover plate.
Slacken the nut on the left-hand end of front wheel spindle.

Remove the four nuts retaining the caps to the fork sliders, which will permit the removal
of the two caps and, putting pressure on the front wheel (in order to decrease the
effective height of the wheel spindle) the wheel can be withdrawn towards the front.

NOTE—The two caps MUST be re-fitted in same order and position as originally.

When replacing the front wheel, observe the instructions already given in the Fork and

Frame Section and remember to depress the wheel when placing in position to get the
wheel spindle between the two sets of studs that retain the slider caps.

Do not attempt to use the FRONT STAND unless the machine is supported

by the centre standi (on SPRING FRAME MODELS) or by the REAR STAND

(on RIGID FRAME MODELS).

Therefore, lay them aside so that the order and position of assembly will be
correctly made.

TO REMOVE REAR WHEEL (Spring Frame Models)

Place the machine on the centre stand. Remove the bolt, washer and nut, in rearmost

position on each tubular member fixing the hinged portion of the rear mudguard.

Disconnect the snap connector in the wire of the rear lamp.

Remove adjusting nut from rear brake rod.
Revolve rear wheel till the chain connecting link is in its most possible rear-most position.
Remove connecting link and allow chain to come right away from the rear wheel sprocket

but ensure it hangs so it cannot come away from the gear box sprocket.
Disconnect speedometer cable from speedometer gear box by unscrewing the cable

gland nut.
Slacken the nut, on the rear wheel spindle that positions the speedometer gear box.
Slacken both exterior nuts on the rear wheel spindle three complete turns.
Using adjustable wrench 017249, apply it to the hexagonal body of the adjusting cam

on the left-hand end of the wheel axle and turn the cam till, by pushing the wheel
forwards, the wheel is in its most forward possible position.

62

Hold left-hand side of wheel tightly forward against the cam stop and pull backwards

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the right-hand side of the wheel so that the brake cover plate disengages with the square

headed anchor bolt. Then, raise the hinged portion of the rear mudguard and pull
wheel away from the fork ends.

TO REMOVE REAR WHEEL (Rigid Frame Models)

Place machine on rear stand.

Disconnect rear lamp wire at connection near rear wheel spindle.

Disconnect speedometer driving cable. (Unscrew gland nut on cable.)

Disconnect rear chain connecting link. (Allow chain to hang clear of the rear wheel

sprocket without becoming disengaged from the gear box small sprocket.)

Remove the two nuts securing rear portion of rear mudguard to its front portion.

Loosen nut and washer from bolt securing mudguard side bridge and tool box stay to

tubular stay.

Remove adjusting nut from rear brake rod.

Slacken the two nuts (unscrew about four turns) retaining the rear mudguard side stays

to their studs.

Slacken the two nuts on the rear wheel spindle.
Remove the rear portion of the rear mudguard, with its stays, leaving tool box and stay

in position.
Remove the rear wheel from the fork ends by twisting it sideways to release and clear

the rear brake cover plate anchor bolt and then withdrawing it to the rear.
Re-fit in the reverse order but, before finally tightening the rear wheel spindle nuts,

ensure the speedometer gear box is so positioned that the speedometer driving cable
can be correctly replaced.

When the wheel alignment is correct a piece of thin string stretched taut across both
wheels, about four inches from, and parallel to, the ground, should just touch each tyre
at both sides of the wheel centres.

Alternatively, a straight wooden batten, about five feet long, is handy to use for checking
wheel alignment. This should be applied, as in the case of string, parallel to and about
four inches from the ground.

NOTE—Always check the rear chain tension and the rear brake adjustment after making

an alteration to the rear wheel position.

TO RE-FIT REAR WHEEL (Spring Frame Model)

Reverse the above procedure but leave the tightening of the nut that locates the speedo-

meter gear box for the final operation, i.e., after the speedometer cable has been

re-connected and the exterior axle nuts have been tightened.
It will be found easier to re-fit the wheel to the fork ends with the brake cover plate

hanging free and then, holding the wheel on its left-hand side, as far forward in the fork
end as is possible, to swing the right-hand side backwards, lifting up the free cover plate
so that the slot in it is positioned to engage with the square headed anchor bolt and

then swinging the right-hand end of the axle forwards till engagement has been completed.

After re-fitting the rear wheel, check the rear chain adjustment, and, if necessary, re-set it.
Then check the rear brake adjustment and, if necessary, re-set it.

63

WHEEL BEARINGS AND ADJUSTMENT

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The wheel bearings are of taper roller type. The inner bearings for the rollers are

integral with the wheel spindle in the case of the front wheel, and are separate tracks
that are threaded on the centre spindle in the case of the rear wheel, (Reference to
Illustration 24 will make that clear.) The outer cups for the rollers are pressed into the

hub shell. They have a fixed location one side and an adjustable location on the other.
The fixed location is provided by a circlip in a groove cut in one end of the hub shell,

while the adjustable location is regulated by a screwed ring that is threaded into the
opposite end of the hub and the position of which can be locked by an encircling nut.

On the rear wheel the adjusting ring is located on the left-hand side of the hub while,

on the front wheel, the adjustment is on the right-hand side.

It is rarely necessary to make adjustment to wheel bearings. It is most important they

are not adjusted too tightly as this would quickly ruin them. There must always be a

slight amount of end play. This should be about .002", which represents adjust perceptible

rim rock, (Not more than 1/64" rock.)

To adjust the rear wheel bearings the wheel must first be removed from the machine,

but those of the front wheel can be dealt with in situ,

A service method of ensuring correct adjustment is :

Slacken the lock nut.

Tighten the adjusting ring until all slackness has been taken up.

Slacken back the adjusting ring exactly one-half turn.

Tighten the lock nut, making sure that, when doing so, the adjusting ring does not creep

round.

TO DISMANTLE A FRONT WHEEL BEARING

These instructions need reference to the upper part of Illustration 24.

Remove wheel from machine.
Remove nuts, and brake cover plate with shoes, etc., from left-hand side of wheel.

Turn to right-hand side and slacken lock nut. (11.)

Completely unscrew the adjusting ring (10) and take it away with the lock nut (II)
still on it.

Carefully apply steady pressure on the threaded end of the wheel spindle which will,

in turn, eject from the opposite end of the hub the cup housing for the oil seal (9), the

oil seal (8), the metal washer (7) that is behind the oil seal and the outer cup (6). These

may be lifted away as they emerge.

The front wheel spindle (6), with its two sets of rollers in cages, may now be lifted out

of the hub.

Turn to the left-hand end of the hub, carefully apply steady pressure on the visible

washer (avoiding fouling the circlip that can be seen in the hub end), so that the complete

left-hand assembly of oil seal and outer cup is pushed a trifle further into the hub shell.

This will take off pressure on the circlip, thereby making its extraction an easy matter.

Extract circlip (I), and then, reversing the hub, apply pressure on the inside edge of the
outer cup (6), so that it is forced out of the hub. As it emerges it will push in front of it,
the oil seal external plain washer (2), the oil seal (3), with its encircling spacer collar (4)
and the oil seal inner plain washer (5), all of which can be lifted away as they appear,
to be finally followed by the cup (6).

The dismantling is then completed.

64

To re-fit, reverse the above procedure, remembering that, after cup (6), washer (5),

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spacer (4), oil seal (3) and washer (2) have been inserted in the plain end of the hub,
to re-fit the circlip (I) and then carefully to apply steady pressure on the inner edge of
the cup (6) to force the above entire assembly tightly back against the circlip (1).

Illustration 23

Showing rear hub, rear chain sprocket, brake and speedometer gear box

(Spring Frame Model)

(Rigid Frame Models identical except for items 4-6 and 26)

RIGHT-HAND SIDE HUB FLANGE.

1

2

GREASE NIPPLE ON SPEEDOMETER GEAR
BOX.

3

SPEEDOMETER GEAR BOX.

4

SPIGOT BUSH, FITS IN RIGHT-HAND

FORK END.

5

NUT, ON CENTRE SOLID SPINDLE.
RIGHT-HAND SIDE CAM.

6
7

NUT, LOCKING SPEEDOMETER GEAR
BOX IN POSITION.

8

SPACER, BETWEEN SPEEDOMETER GEAR
BOX AND RIGHT-HAND SIDE TAPER
ROLLER BEARING.

OIL SEAL.

9

10

COLLAR, ENCIRCLING RIGHT-HAND OIL
SEAL.

CIRCLIP, LOCATING RIGHT-HAND SIDE

II

TAPER ROLLER BEARING.

WASHER, RETAINING OIL SEAL (ONE

12

EACH SIDE OF SEAL).

13

SPACER, BETWEEN OIL SEAL INNER
WASHER AND TAPER BEARING.

14

SPACER, BETWEEN THE TWO TAPER
ROLLER BEARINGS.

15

GREASE NIPPLE, IN HUB SHELL.

16

OUTER RACE OF RIGHT SIDE TAPER

ROLLER BEARING.

17

NUT, LOCKING BEARING ADJUSTING
RING.

18

RING, FOR ADJUSTING BEARING.

19

ROLLER (PART OF LEFT SIDE TAPER
ROLLER BEARING).

20

BOLT, SECURING BRAKE DRUM AND

SPROCKET TO HUB.

21

REAR BRAKE COVER PLATE.

22

BRAKE LINING.

23

BRAKE SHOE.
SPIGOT BUSH, FITS IN LEFT-HAND FORK

24

END.

25

NUT, ON CENTRE SOLID SPINDLE.

26

LEFT-HAND SIDE CAM.

27

SPRING, FOR BRAKE SHOE.

BRAKE DRUM AND SPROCKET.

28

65

Illustration 24

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Showing exploded view of hub bearing components in the order of
assembly. Upper part is that of front bearings (Rigid and Spring

Frame Models). Lower part is that of rear bearings (Spring Frame

Model only)

(Rigid Frame Models Identical except for items 28 to 32)

1

CIRCLIP.

2

WASHER, METAL, OUTSIDE OIL SEAL.

3

OIL SEAL.

4

SPACING COLLAR, ENCIRCLING OIL SEAL.

5

WASHER, METAL, BETWEEN OIL SEAL
AND TAPER BEARING.

6

OUTER RACES (2 OFF). CENTRE SPINDLE.

ROLLERS IN CAGES (2 SETS). THESE

ARE NOT SUPPLIED SEPARATELY.
ALSO, ROLLERS ARE NOT SUPPLIED
SEPARATELY.

7

WASHER, METAL, BETWEEN OIL SEAL

AND TAPER BEARING.

8

OIL SEAL.

9

CUP, HOUSING, FOR OIL SEAL.

10

ADJUSTING RING.

11

LOCK NUT, FOR ADJUSTING RING.

12

CIRCLIP.

13

WASHER, METAL, OUTSIDE OIL SEAL.

14

OIL SEAL.

15

SPACING COLLAR, ENCIRCLING OIL SEAL.

16

WASHER, METAL, BETWEEN OIL SEAL
AND SPACER.

17

SPACER, BETWEEN OIL SEAL WASHER
AND TAPER BEARING.

18

TAPER BEARING (OUTER CUP, CAGE FOR

ROLLERS AND ROLLERS) THESE ARE

NOT SUPPLIED SEPARATELY. ALSO
ROLLERS ARE NOT SUPPLIED
SEPARATELY.

19

SPACER, BETWEEN BEARINGS.

20

TAPER BEARING (OUTER CUP, CAGE FOR

ROLLERS AND ROLLERS). THESE ARE

NOT SUPPLIED SEPARATELY. ALSO
ROLLERS ARE NOT SUPPLIED
SEPARATELY.

21

SPACER BETWEEN OIL SEAL WASHER
AND TAPER BEARING.

22

WASHER, METAL, BETWEEN OIL SEAL
AND SPACER.

23

OIL SEAL.

24

CUP, HOUSING, FOR OIL SEAL.

25

ADJUSTING RING.

26

LOCK NUT, FOR ADJUSTING RING.

27

NUT, EXTERNAL, FOR REAR WHEEL

SPINDLE.

28

BUSH, FOR REAR WHEEL SPINDLE (FITS
IN FORK END).

KEYWAY, TO ACCOMMODATE KEY

29

LOCKING CAM TO REAR WHEEL SPINDLE.
REAR WHEEL SOLID CENTRE SPINDLE.

30
31

KEYWAY, TO ACCOMMODATE KEY
LOCKING CAM TO REAR WHEEL SPINDLE.

32

BUSH, FOR REAR WHEEL SPINDLE (FITS
IN FORK END).

33

NUT, EXTERNAL, FOR REAR WHEEL

SPINDLE.

66

TO DISMANTLE A REAR WHEEL BEARING

These instructions need reference to the lower part of Illustration 24.
Remove wheel from machine.
Remove brake cover plate, with brake shoes, centre solid spindle with cams, spacers,

bushes, nut and speedometer gear box.
Turn to left-hand side and slacken lock nut (26).
Completely unscrew the adjusting ring (25) and take it away with the lock nut (26)

still on it.
Turn to the right-hand end of the hub and carefully apply steady pressure on the visible

steel washer (avoiding fouling the circlip that can be seen in the hub end), so that, in turn,
the cup housing (24) for the oil seal, the oil seal (23), the metal washer (22) that is behind
the oil seal, the spacing ring (21) that is between the metal washer and the taper bearing,
and outer cup (20) are ejected. These may be lifted away as they emerge.

The rollers in cage (20), the centre spacer (19) and the rollers in cage (18) may now be
lifted out of the hub.

Turn to the right hand end of the hub, carefully apply steady pressure to the visible
washer (avoiding fouling the circlip that can be seen in the hub end), so that the
complete right-hand assembly of oil seal and outer cup is pushed a trifle further into
the hub shell. This will take off pressure on the circlip, thereby making its extraction
an easy matter.

Extract circlip (12).
Through the open end of the hub carefully apply steady pressure to the inner edge of

the outer cup (18) so that it is forced out of the hub.
As it emerges, it will push, in front of it, the oil seal plain washer (13), the oil seal (14)

with its encircling spacer collar (15), the oil seal internal plain washer (16) and the spacing
ring (17) between the metal washer and the taper bearing, to be finally followed by the
cup (18).

The dismantling is then completed.
To re-fit, reverse the above procedure, remembering that, after cup (18), spacer (17),

washer (16), oil seal (14), spacer (15) and washer (13) have been inserted in the plain end
of the hub, to re-fit the circlip (12) and then carefully to apply steady pressure on the
inner edge of the cup (18) to force the above entire assembly tightly back against the
circlip (12).

FRONT BRAKE COVER PLATE

It is most important the front brake cover plate is correctly positioned.
It is retained to the front wheel spindle by an inside nut (part number 017003)

and an outside nut (part number 013483). Between the inside nut and the brake cover
plate is a locating washer (part number 017222.)

The inside nut should be positioned so that, when the locating washer is placed next to it,
the outside face of the washer is z" proud of the outer edge of the brake drum. (Tested
by placing a straight edge across the edge of the brake drum.)

The outside nut is fitted so that its hexagonal side is against the brake cover plate

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67

BRAKE DRUMS

The front wheel brake drum is retained to the wheel by ten countersunk screws.
The rear wheel brake drum is integral with the rear wheel sprocket and is retained to

the wheel hub by five bolts and nuts. Under each nut is a lock washer of the " tab "
type and it is essential these are always in position.

Harshness in transmission can be caused by the drum retaining bolts and nuts being loose.
Rear wheel spokes will break for the same reason.

BRAKE SHOES

The front and rear brake shoes, springs and expanders are interchangeable. The two
shoes in each brake are NOT identical, they are " handed."

One end of each shoe bears on a fulcrum fixed in the brake cover plate. The other end
accommodates a detachable thrust pin. 'By inserting washers under a thrust pin its
effective height can be increased, thereby compensating for wear on the brake linings.

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT

Brake adjustment, to compensate for lining wear, is normally made by means of a finger
adjuster on the rear brake rod and a cable adjuster for the front brake cable.

After a very considerable mileage this continual adjustment causes the brake cam to
occupy a position whereby the available leverage is considerably reduced and, as a result,
the brake loses efficiency.

To overcome this a hardened headed thrust
pin is fitted to each shoe to enable a packing
washer to be fitted under the head as, and
when, required. Eight of these washers
(000174) are provided in the tool kit.
When wear of the brake linings is taken up
in this manner it is then necessary to
unscrew considerably the adjusting nut on
the rear brake rod, or screw in the cable
adjuster of the front brake cable, and
afterwards adjust the brake, as described
afterwards.

When a brake cover plate has been disturbed,
it is advisable, upon re-assembly, to centralise
the shoes in the brake drum to ensure equal
pressure to each. In the case of the front
wheel this is best done before re-fitting the
wheel to the machine, but in the case of the
rear wheel it is best done after re-fitting.
If brake shoes tend to squeak, when the brake
is applied it is generally an indication the
brake shoes are not centralised in the drum.

(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)

Brake shoe thrust pin.
Thrust pin packing washer.
Brake shoe.
Rivet, securing brake shoe lining.
Brake shoe lining.

Illustration 25

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68

Centralise brake shoes by :

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Ensure the nut binding the cover plate to the wheel spindle is slightly slack.
Place on the brake expander lever a tubular spanner (to increase the leverage), and, while

maintaining pressure on the tubular spanner (to expand fully the brake shoes), fully
tighten the spindle nut binding the cover plate to the spindle.

FRONT BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Major adjustment of the front brake shoes is made on the brake thrust pins, by fitting
packing washers under the pins, as already described.

Minor adjustment of the front brake shoes is made by altering the position of the brake
cable adjuster on the fork assembly. Unscrew the adjuster to " take up "the front brake.

The adjuster is locked in position by a nut.
Adjust front brake by :

Place machine on both stands.
Slacken lock nut on cable adjuster.

Unscrew the cable adjuster till, by rotating the front wheel, it can be felt the brake shoes
are just touching the brake drum.

Then screw back the adjuster two complete turns and tighten the lock nut.

Illustration 26

Showing front brake
cable adjuster thread
exhausted, indicating
brake shoe thrust pin
a d j u s t m e n t i s
necessary.

REAR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Major adjustment of the rear brake shoes is made on the brake thrust pins, by fitting
packing washers under the pins, as already described.

Minor adjustment of the rear brake shoes is made by altering the position, on the brake
rod, of the knurled adjusting nut. Screw the nut further on the rod to " take up "
the rear brake.

69

Adjust rear brake by :

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Place machine on centre stand if spring frame, otherwise on rear stand.

Screw further on the brake rod the knurled adjusting nut till, by rotating the wheel,

it can be felt the brake shoes are just touching the brake drum.

Then unscrew the adjusting nut two complete turns. (The adjusting nut is automatically

locked in position in virtue of the two projecting noses on it engaging in accommodating

slots cut in the clip which connects the brake rod and brake expander lever and being

retained in that position by the spring which encircles the rear end of the brake rod.)

Illustration 27

Showing the rear brake
pedal with its adjusting
bolt and lock nut. To
permanently raise the toe
end of the pedal, slacken
lock nut (B) and unscrew
the adjusting bolt (A).

(Check back brake adjust­ment after).

(RIGID FRAME MODELS)

BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT

The position of the rear brake pedal can be adjusted within narrow limits. This is done

by means of a bolt screwed into the heel of the pedal. The adjusting bolt is locked by

a nut.

The best position, for normal use, is to position the pedal so that, when the brake is

" off," it is just clear of the under-side of the footrest arm.

After altering the adjustment of the brake pedal, rear brake adjustment should be checked

Illustration 28

Showing brake rod adjust-

ment exhausted, indicat­ing brake shoe thrust pin

adjustment is essential.

(RIGID FRAME MODELS)

RIMS AND SPOKES

The front and rear rims are each drilled for forty spokes, but they are not interchangeable

because the nipple holes in the front rim are smaller than those in the rear rim. See

" DATA."

The dimensions of spokes will be found in " DATA."

70

Illustration 29

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Showing brake rod ad-

justment exhausted, in-

dicating the need for

brake thrust pin adjust-

ment.

(SPRING FRAME MODELS)

TYRES AND SERVICE

Obtaining satisfactory life and service from the tyres is largely a matter within the user's

control because the first essential is correct inflation. Check tyre pressures with a low

pressure gauge at least once a week. Inflate as may be necessary.

Avoid unnecessary, or " stunt," acceleration and fierce braking, which wear out tyres

by causing wheel spin and skid.

Do not drive in tram lines. It is dangerous, especially when wet, and the uprising edges

of worn rails will damage the tyres.

Remove flints, etc., that become embedded in the tread and, if any oil gets on the tyres

or spokes, clean it off with petrol.

Make sure the front and rear wheels are in track. When the wheel alignment is correct,

a piece of thin string stretched taut across both wheels, about four inches from, and

parallel to, the ground, should just touch each tyre at both sides of the wheel centres.

Alternatively, a straight wooden batten, about five feet long, is handy to use for checking

wheel alignment. This should be applied, as in the case of string, parallel to and about
four inches from the ground.

Always check the rear chain adjustment, and the rear brake adjustment, after making an

alteration to the rear wheel position.

71

TYRE REMOVAL

It is not essential to remove a wheel from the machine to repair a puncture but it will
usually be found desirable and more convenient to do so.

Take off outer cover and remove inner tube by :
Remove cap from tyre valve.

Remove nut from tyre valve.
Remove the " inside " from tyre valve. This allows inner tube to deflate. Most valve

caps have a reduced and slotted top to engage with the valve " inside " in order to
unscrew it.

Push edge of cover, that is diametrically opposite to the valve, RIGHT INTO WELL
OF RIM and, using tyre levers 017007, pick up edge of cover NEAR VALVE so
that it comes off over the edge of the rim.

Work off the remaining edge of the cover till it is clear of the rim. This is quite easy
and there is no reason to use force.

Push upwards valve stem through its hole in the rim, and the inner tube is then free
to be taken away.

Remove cover from rim by pushing it right into well of rim and, diametrically opposite,
picking it up with the tyre lever and then working it off all the way round.

TYRE FITTING

Re-fit inner tube and outer cover by :

Place one edge of cover right into well of rim, with the three white dots on the cover side
adjacent to the valve hole, and, commencing diametrically opposite, and using the
hands only, work the cover over the edge of the rim.

Replace the valve " inside "and slightly inflate the inner tube. (Do not distend the tube.)
Fit the valve into its hole in the rim and replace its nut, only screwing it on the valve
stem about half an inch.

Tuck in the inner tube so that it lies snugly in the cover. Ensure it is not twisted.
Smear some soapy water round the free edge of the cover. This is a great help in fitting
and in ensuring the cover centralises itself on the rim and should always be employed
if at all possible.

Introduce the free edge of the cover into the rim at the spot diametrically opposite to
the valve. Get this edge right into the well of the rim and then, by working round the
cover, equally on either side of the valve position, the cover will slip into place without
excessive exertion, fitting the part nearest to the valve last of all.

Slightly inflate the inner tube and inspect for the inner tube being trapped between the
outside edge of the cover and the rim at the spots where the valve is located.

Half inflate tyre, spin wheel and test for trueness because it is essential the pattern of the
tread runs evenly and the cover must be manipulated till that occurs. This centralisa-
tion of the cover is most important.

Inflate to required pressure.
Screw fully home the nut on the valve.
Replace the valve cap.

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72

TYRE PRESSURES

The following are correct minimum inflation pressures for specified loads per tyre :

do.
do.
do.
do.
do.

240 lb.
280 lb.

350 lb.
400 lb.
440 lb.

do.
do.
do.
do.
do.

18 lb. do.
20 lb. do.
24 lb. do.
28 lb. do.
32 lb. do.

The best method of ascertaining the correct pressure is to actually weigh the loads on
the front and rear tyres. This should be done on a weighbridge and is a service that
can usually be provided by British Railways at a Goods Depot or by a Corporation at
its Depot.

When the weights are known the table above can then be used.
As a rough guide it may be stated that, with a rider of average weight and with normal

equipment, solo, the pressure should be 18 lb. for the front tyre and 22 lb. for the rear.

Load per tyre, 200 lb. Pressure 16 lb. per square inch

GENUINE

A·J·S SPARES

PURCHASED FROM

AN AUTHORISED “ A • J • S ” DEALER OR

FROM THE FACTORY, ARE IDENTICAL
WITH THE PARTS ORIGINALLY BUILT

INTO YOUR MOTOR CYCLE.

BY USING GENUINE SPARES YOU ARE ASSURED THEY

WILL FIT ACCURATELY AND GIVE SATISFACTORY SERVICE

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73

ELECTRICAL SERVICE

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ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

LUCAS electrical equipment is fitted and this comprises three independent electrical
circuits, as follows :

(1) IGNITION—Magneto, High-tension wire and Sparking plug.
(2) CHARGING—Dynamo, Automatic Voltage Control Unit and Battery.
(3) LIGHTING AND ACCESSORIES—Lamps, Horn, Switches and wiring.

IGNITION CIRCUIT

A LUCAS type N1-4 magneto is fitted (Type NR1 to competition models) and the
only service attention this requires is occasional lubrication of the contact breaker cam
and tappet, infrequent adjustment of the contact breaker points and complete servicing
at intervals of about ten thousand miles. To lubricate the contact breaker cam and
tappet it is necessary to remove the complete contact breaker from the magneto.

Illustration 30

Showing Contact Breaker

Remove contact breaker by :

Swing away the flat blade retaining the contact breaker cover.
Pull away the contact breaker cover.
Remove the screw E, Illustration 30, retaining the contact breaker spring arm A,

Illustration 30, to the contact breaker body and take away the backing spring F,
Illustration 31, and the spring arm E, Illustration 31. There is a spring washer under
the screw.

Unscrew the screw B, Illustration 30, carrying the lubrication wick and take away the

fibre insulating bush encircling the screw.

Straighten the tab on the lock washer D, Illustration 31, under the central screw H,
Illustration 30, retaining the contact breaker body A, illustration 31, to the armature
shaft and, with spanner 017251, remove the central screw.

Finally, lever off the contact breaker.

The above instructions do not apply to competition models fitted with Racing

Magnetos Type NR1.

74

Lubricate contact breaker cam and tappet by :

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Remove contact breaker as described on page 74.
Saturate, with a few drops of thin machine oil, the wick mounted in the core of its carry-

ing screw B, Illustration 30.
Push out of the contact breaker body the tappet B, Illustration 31, wipe it with a soft cloth,

smear it with thin machine oil and then replace it.
NOTE—When replacing the contact breaker parts, ensure the backing spring F, Illustra-

Contact breaker points.

The contact breaker point separation should be from .010" to .012".

tion 31, is fitted so that its bent over end faces outwards.

Illustration 31

Showing component details of Contact Breaker

Clean contact breaker points by :

Remove the contact breaker cover.
Examine contacts. (F, Illustration 30.)
If they are dirty, oily, or burnt, they must be cleaned with a fine carborundum stone,

or very fine emery cloth, and afterwards wiped with a cloth that has been moistened

with petrol.
Cleaning is made easier if the contact breaker spring arm A, Illustration 30, is removed.
Examine the contact breaker spring arm and wipe away any rust.

Check and adjust contact breaker point setting by :
Remove contact breaker cover.
Turn over engine till the contact breaker points F, Illustration 30, are fully open.
Insert the gauge (part of spanner 017251) between the two contact points. If the

setting is correct the gauge should be a sliding fit.
If there is an appreciable variation from the gauge slacken the lock nut G, Illustration

30, on the adjusting point and turn the contact point (apply spanner 017251 to its hexagon
head) until the gap is set to the gauge. (Screw the point into the contact breaker body
to increase the gap, or outwards, to decrease it.)

Finally, tighten the lock nut and re-check the setting.

75

The foregoing instructions do not apply to competition models fitted with Racing

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Magnetos Type NR1.

SPECIAL NOTE—Check the contact breaker point gap after the first one hundred miles

Complete service (dismantling, cleaning, lubrication of the armature shaft bearings, etc.)
should be entrusted to a Lucas Service Station and should be done about every ten
thousand miles.

and five hundred miles. Owing to the initial settling down, there is a tendency

for the gap to alter in the first few hundred miles of use. This may seriously

affect the ignition setting. Subsequent adjustment will only be required at long
intervals but it is as well to check the gap every two thousand miles. (When
the engine is decarbonised is always an opportune time.)

SPARKING PLUG

The K.L.G. Type FE80 " Corundite " Plug is fitted to all models.

It has a thread of 14 mm. and the reach is ¾". The point gap is .015". Check the point
gap every time the engine is decarbonised and, if necessary, re-set the points.

See the plug is fitted with its external seating washer.

Coat the thread with " Oil Dag "or Graphite paste. (See page 37.)

Firmly tighten the plug by using the standard box spanner and
tommy bar (Part No. 017252.) All that is required is a GAS­TIGHT joint. Therefore do not over tighten, which will not

make a gas-tight joint more gas-tight, but can, and possibly will,
distort and damage the body of the plug .

Set the gap to .015 inch. NEVER. TRY TO MOVE THE CENTRAL

ELECTRODE. To widen, or narrow, the gap between the

electrodes, only move the earth (or bent over) electrode,

Check the gap first with a gap gauge.

If it is too wide, tap the earth electrode (the bent-over one) to-

wards the central electrode. Use any handy metal tool to do

this, provided it is light enough in weight to be controllable.

Check the gap between each tap and stop when the gauge is a

nice sliding fit between the two electrodes.

If the gap is too narrow to start with, gently lever the earth

electrode away from the central electrode by using a small
screwdriver, and then tap back to the correct position.

Do not move the electrodes apart by forcing anything between

them.

For maximum efficiency, plugs should be cleaned at every 3,000

miles. To take the plug to pieces for cleaning, unscrew the gland

nut by holding the smaller hexagon on the gland nut upside down

in a vice and then using the box spanner to unscrew the larger

hexagon on the body.

Then lift away the central electrode assembly which should be

washed in petrol or paraffin. Then, using fairly coarse glass

paper, remove the carbon deposit and wash again.

The central firing point should be cleaned with fine emery cloth.

The inside of the body should be scraped clean with a knife and

finally rinsed in petrol.

There is an internal washer, between the insulator and its seat-

ing in the body. On re-assembly lightly smear this with thin oil

and then screw up the gland nut sufficiently tight to give a gas-

tight joint.

Finally adjust the gap to ·015"—·018".

Illustration 32

76

CHARGING

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A LUCAS type E3-N dynamo is fitted. It is anti-clockwise in rotation. The

cutting in speed is 1250-1500 r.p.m. at 7 volts and at 1,850 to 2,200 revolutions per

minute it gives an output of 5 amps at 7 volts. The replacement part number is 20028A.
The positive brush is insulated and the negative brush is earthed. The two exterior
terminals are marked " D " and " F," indicating the respective terminals for the Positive
and Field wires that lead to similarly marked terminals on the Regulator Unit.

Inspect commutator and brush gear every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. (Maker's

Remove the dynamo (see page 78 for instructions.)
Remove the cover band to inspect commutator and brush gear.
The brushes are held in contact with the commutator by means of springs. Move each

brush, see they are free to slide in their holders, if dirty, or if sticking, remove and clean
with a cloth moistened with petrol. Take care to replace brushes in their original

positions, otherwise they will not " bed " properly on the commutator.
If, after long service, the brushes have become worn to such an extent that the brush

flexible wire is exposed on the running face, or if the brushes do not make good contact
with the commutator, they must be replaced by genuine LUCAS brushes.

The commutator must be free from any trace of oil or dirt and should have a highly

polished appearance. Clean a dirty, or blackened, commutator by pressing a fine dry
cloth against it while the engine is slowly turned over by means of the kick-starter.
(It is an advantage to remove the sparking plugs before doing this). If the commutator
is very dirty, moisten the cloth with petrol.

At every 10,000 miles, the complete dynamo should be handed to a Lucas Service Station
for dismantling, replacement of worn parts, cleaning and lubrication.

Electrical breakdown of the dynamo is most unusual and therefore before assuming this

unit is defective, it should be tested as follows :
Check that the dynamo, regulator and battery are correctly connected.

Recommendation.)

Test Dynamo in position by :

(a) Remove the two wires from the dynamo terminals and connect the two terminals

with a short length of wire.
(b) Start the engine and set to run at normal idling speed.
(c) Connect the positive lead of a moving coil voltmeter (calibrated not less than 0 to

10 volts) to either of the two dynamo terminals and connect the negative lead to a

good earth point on the dynamo or engine.

(d) Gradually increase the engine speed, when the voltmeter reading should rapidly rise

and without fluctuation.

Do not allow the voltmeter reading to rise above 10 volts.
Do not race the engine in an attempt to increase the voltage. It is sufficient to run

up the engine to a speed of 1,000 r.p.m.
If the above reading is obtained the dynamo is in order.
If there is no reading, check the brush gear.
If there is a low reading of approximately ½ volt, the field winding may be at fault.
If there is a low reading of approximately 1½ to 2 volts, the armature winding may

be at fault.

If the tests, mentioned above, clearly indicate the dynamo is not charging, it is then
desirable to remove the dynamo from the machine in order to make further tests and
repairs or replacements.

77

TO REMOVE DYNAMO

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Remove Magneto chain cover, (Retained by 6 screws.)

(a)

Remove nut and its washer fixing each magneto chain sprocket.

(b)

(c)

Using a sprocket withdrawal tool, or wedges behind sprocket, release, in turn,

each magneto chain sprocket and take them away, complete with chain.

Remove timing gear cover (retained by 5 screws) taking care not to allow the two

(d)

camshafts to come out of engagement with the small timing pinion.

Remove outer portion of front chaincase. (See page 43.)

(e)

Remove spring circlip, lock washer, nut and plain washer under nut that retains the

(f)

chain sprocket to the dynamo armature shaft.

Using a sprocket withdrawal tool, or wedges between sprocket and dynamo body,

(g)

release the sprocket from the dynamo shaft.

Slacken nut on right-hand end of the gearbox top fixing bolt.

(h)

Remove nut on left-hand end of the gearbox bottom fixing bolt, and drive bolt out.

(i)

(It may be necessary to remove the oil return pipe from the oil tank to do this, and

this necessitates draining the oil tank first.)

Disconnect cables attached to Dynamo end cover by unscrewing central bolt fixing

(j)

the retaining plate to the cover.

Sufficiently unscrew the bolt clamping the dynamo in the engine rear plates to allow

(k)

the dynamo to have free movement.

Pull back the bottom of the gearbox as far as possible.

(l)

Rotate dynamo till the locating plate on its body is in a position to enable it to pass

(m)

the cut away parts of the engine plates, and then withdraw the dynamo from the

kick-starter side of the machine.

TO RE-FIT DYNAMO

Reverse the above procedure. If camshafts have been displaced, see page 33 for
retiming instructions.

Re-set ignition timing by instructions on page 35.
See page 51 for instructions on re-setting magneto driving chain, and, finally, check

adjustment of front and rear chains. See pages 49 and 50.

The cut-out and regulator unit (A.V.C), is type MCR-2, and the replacement
part number is 37144-A.

Although the voltage regulator and the cut-out are combined structurally, they are
electrically separate.

The regulator is set to maintain a pre-determined generator voltage at all speeds and
regulates the output of the dynamo to the battery according to the state of charge of the

battery. The charge rate is at its maximum when the battery is discharged, automatically

tapering off to a minimum as the battery becomes charged and its voltage rises.

Normally, during day-time running, when the battery is in good condition, the dynamo

gives only a trickle charge, so that the ammeter reading will seldom exceed 1 to 2 amperes.
The cut-out is an automatic switch which is connected between the dynamo and the battery.
When the engine is running fast enough to cause the voltage of the dynamo to exceed
that of the battery the cut-out allows the battery to be charged by the dynamo. On
the other hand, when the engine speed is low, or the engine is stationary, the cut-out
disconnects the battery from the dynamo, thereby preventing current flowing back from
the battery to the dynamo, a proceeding that would soon cause the battery to become
completely discharged.

78

The regulator and cut-out are accurately set during manufacture. If, under normal

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running-conditions, it is found that the battery is continually in a low state of charge, or
is being constantly over-charged, then the regulator setting should be checked by a

qualified electrician and, if necessary, re-set. Whenever possible, this should be carried

out by a Lucas Service Depot or Agent.
The A.V.C. Unit is retained to the battery carrier by two bolts with nuts. The four

terminals of the A.V.C. Unit are plainly marked by the letters F.A.D.E. Wires from
F and D go to similarly marked terminals on the dynamo. The A terminal is connected
to one of the ammeter terminals and the E terminal is " earthed."

We specially warn against unskilled meddling with the settings of the regulator and the
cut-out contacts.

Illustration 33

Showing connections to
regulator and cut-out unit

Battery

The battery fitted is LUCAS type PUW-7E-4. This is a lead-acid battery in which the
electrolyte is in free liquid form. The voltage is 6 and the capacity is 12 ampere hours.
The negative terminal is earthed to the frame.

The maintenance period of a battery is expressed in terms of time and not miles, as is
general with all other parts of the machine.

The routine maintenance MUST be carried out, irrespective of if the machine is used,
or not.

Maintenance once every 14 days

Remove battery cover, brush dirt from top of battery and remove vent plugs. (There
are three vent plugs.)

NOTE—NEVER bring a naked light near a battery when the vent plugs have been

removed, or when the battery is being charged, as the gas given off by the
electrolyte is highly explosive.

79

The specific gravity of the electrolyte indicates the

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state of charge of the battery. With a fully charged

battery the specific gravity of the electrolyte should
be 1·280 to 1·300. Check the gravity by means of a
hydrometer, and if it is below 1·150 the battery

should be charged as soon as possible by the normal

running of the motor cycle. If this cannot be
arranged, the battery should be charged from an
external source.

If the level of the electrolyte is so low that a
hydrometer reading cannot be taken, no attempt

should be made to take a reading after adding

distilled w,ater until the battery has been on
charge for at least 30 minutes.

NEVER transfer the electrolyte from one cell
to another.

NEVER leave a battery in a discharged condition.
It must be put on charge as soon as possible.

Check if the electrolyte in each cell is level with the top of the separators. Top-up, if
necessary, with distilled water. Do not allow the distilled water to come into contact

with metals—always only use a glass or earthenware container and funnel.

If a battery is found to need an excessive amount of topping-up, steps should be taken to
find out the reason. For example, the battery may be receiving an excessive charge,
in which case the regulator setting may need adjustment. If one cell in particular needs
topping-up more than another, it is likely the case, or container, is cracked, in which event
the battery must be replaced and arrangements made to clean up the battery carrier.

Metal parts should be well cleaned and, if possible, washed, with a solution of ammonia,
or bicarbonate of soda, in water.

Vent plugs should be kept clean and air passages in them kept free. Re-fix vent plugs
tightly.

Keep the battery, and surrounding parts, particularly the tops of the cells, clean and dry.
Brush away any sand, dust or road slush.

Battery electrolyte, which contains sulphuric acid in a diluted form, is destructive to
practically everything except rubber, lead, glass or earthenware. Therefore, rags used
to clean battery tops, etc., should be thrown away afterwards. If put back in the tool
box they will cause the tools to rust.

Assuming the temperature of the electrolyte is about 60° F. a test with a hydrometer
quickly shows the state of charge, as under :

Reading 1.280 to 1.300 indicates fully charged.
Reading about 1.210 indicates half discharged.
Reading below 1.150 indicates fully discharged.

Illustration 34

Lucas PUW-7E-4

Battery

If the electrolyte exeeds this, ·002 must be added to the hydrometer reading for each

5° F. rise to give the specific gravity at 60° F. Similarly, ·002 must be subtracted from
the hydrometer reading for every 5° F. below 60° F.

80

LIGHTING AND ACCESSORIES

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Headlamp

A LUCAS type SSU-700-P headlamp is fitted. The replacement part number is 50945-A.
It has a panel mounted on its top, retained by three screws, in which is the main switch
and ammeter and it also supports the cable harness. See Illustration 35. The main

bulb has a double filament. One filament provides the main driving beam and the other

a dipped beam, brought into operation by the dipping switch on the left handlebar as may

be required. The pilot bulb is the same as used in the rear lamp and is mounted outside

the reflector, illumination being arranged through a small circular window in the reflector.

The reflector and front glass are made up as one assembly and the two components are
not sold as separate spares.

The lamp is fitted with a pre-focus main bulb. The design of the bulb, and of its

holder, is such that the bulb is correctly positioned in relation to the reflector and no
focussing is required when a replacement bulb is fitted.

Illustration 35

Showing lamp panel containing ammeter (at top) switch and cable harness.

The ammeter fitted is type CZ-427 and the replacement part number is 36084.

(See page 84 for numbered references.)

To remove the headlamp rim and light unit

Slacken the screw on the top of the lamp body at the front, pull the rim outward from the
top and, as the front comes away, lower slightly to disengage the bottom tag from the

lamp shell. Twist the back shell in an anti-clockwise direction and pull it off, the bulb can
then be removed. The light unit is secured to the rim by means of spring clips.
These can be disengaged from the turned up inner edge of the rim by pressing with a
screwdriver blade and, at the same time, working away from the edge.

81

Illustration 36

Lucas snap connector

Part number 900269

One snap connector is used in the rear lamp wire (the wires have red coloured sleeves)
and another is used in the wire connecting the regulator unit to the output side of the
ammeter in the head lamp. (The wires have purple and white coloured sleeves.)

Snap wire connector

The LUCAS snap connector, as shown in illustration 36, is made up of four components.
Two are tubular sleeves, having pointed extremities, and which are soldered to the ends
of the two wires to be connected. The third part is the centre split ferrule, into which
the two sleeves snap and the fourth component is a rubber sleeve which covers the whole
connector. That rubber sleeve serves the dual purpose of insulating the various metal
parts and also preventing same from separation as the result of vibration.

Horn

The horn push switch, situated on the right handlebar.

Fuses

There are no detachable fuses in LUCAS motor cycle electrical equipment.

Rear lamp

A LUCAS type 467/2 rear lamp is fitted. The body, with bulb holder, is secured to the

rear number plate by two nuts and spring washers.
The cover, carrying the red glass, is secured to the body by a sleeve nut. Upon

removing this nut, the cover and glass may be taken away to permit bulb replacement.
Details of lamp bulbs are given in " DATA."

NOTE.—Take care to engage the back shell correctly so that the pilot bulb is opposite

the aperture provided in the light unit.

Engage bottom tag on lamp rim with the small slit in the shell and gently force the top
of the rim back into the shell, after which re-tighten the locking screw on the top of the
lamp body.

To replace the headlamp rim and light unit

Lay the light unit in the rim so that the location block on the unit back engages with
the forked bracket on the rim.

Replace, by springing in, the spring clips so that they are evenly spaced around the rim.
To replace the back shell engage the projections on the inside of the back shell with

the slots in the holder, press on and secure by twisting it to the right.

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82

Screwed wire connector

A LUCAS screwed connector of the type shown in Illustration 37 is used in the wire
connecting the positive terminal of the battery to the input side of the ammeter (the
wire has yellow and black coloured sleeves) in the head lamp. It is made up of four
parts. One part, a metal sleeve, is threaded internally and accommodates a collet
which is placed on the end of one of the wires to be connected in such a manner that the
wire ends protrude through the centre of the collet. The third metal part screws
Into the first and has passing through it the second of the wires to be connected.
The wire ends are splayed out and the act of screwing the two threaded parts together
binds the ends of the two wires, thereby making a good electrical contact that can be
immediately broken as, and when, it is wished to remove the battery from the machine.
A rubber sleeve encircles the whole assembly, serving the dual purpose of insulation and
prevention of loss through vibration.

Illustration 37

Lucas screwed wire connector

Part number 571395

Terminals

The earth wires (two—one from regulator, the other from negative terminal of battery)
and the high-tension wires (two—one on sparking plug end of each wire from magneto
to sparking plug) have terminals of the solid sleeve type having an eye at the extreme end.
To make such a connection, it is necessary to bare the end of the wire for a ", pass the
terminal over the wire so that the bared end fully enters the reduced core of the terminal
and then flatten that part by either pinching in a vice or by hammering.

The two earth wires, mentioned above, are connected to the " earth " by securing them
to the left side of the seat lug bolt (which is situated just under the saddle) by means of a
washer and a screw. It is essentia! that the connections are kept clean and the screw
must be kept fully tight.

WHEN ORDERING SPARES, IF IN DOUBT REGARDING THE NAMES

AND PART NUMBERS OF THE PARTS YOU REQUIRE, PLEASE

SEND THE OLD PARTS TO SERVE AS PATTERNS.

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83

PILOT

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BULB

MAIN
BULB

AMMETER

LIGHTING SWITCH

SPEEDO ILL.

HORN PUSH

TO SPARKING

PLUG

MAGNETO

BATTERY

(NEGATIVE EARTH)

HORN

BATTERY

CONNECTOR

SNAP

CONNECTOR

DIPPER SWITCH

DYNAMO

REGULATOR

TAIL

LAMP

Illustration 38

Wiring diagram

(See page 96 for key to the cable numbers and colours.)

84

USEFUL INFORMATION

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In the following five paragraphs are particulars of failures and troubles that can occur,
together with the probable reasons. These troubles are arranged in the order of their
probability.

TRACING TROUBLES

Engine fails to start, or is difficult to start, may be due to :

Throttle opening too large.
Air [evert in open position.
Ignition not set just off fully advanced position. .
Lack of fuel because of insufficient flooding.
Lack of fuel because of pipe, or tap, obstruction.
Excessive flooding of carburetter.
Pilot jet chocked.
Oiled up, or fouled, sparking plug.
Stuck up engine valve.
Weak, or broken, valve spring.
Valve not seating properly.
Contact points dirty.
Incorrect contact point gap.
Water on high-tension pick-up.
Moisture on sparking plug.

Engine misses fire may be due to :
Defective, or oiled, sparking plug.

Incorrect contact point gap.
Contact breaker rocker arm sticking.
Contact breaker points loose.
Rocker adjustment incorrect.
Oil on contact breaker points.
Weak valve springs.
Defective sparking plug wire.
Partially obstructed petrol supply.

Loss of power may be due to :
Faulty sparking plug.

Lack of oil in tank.
No rocker clearance, or too much clearance.
Weak, or broken, valve spring.
Sticky valve stem.
Valve not seating properly.
Brakes adjusted too closely.
Badly fitting, or broken, piston rings.
Punctured carburetter float.
Engine carbonised.
Choked silencer.

85

Engine overheats may be due to :
Lack of proper lubrication. (Quality or quantity of oil.)

Faulty sparking plug.
Air control to carburetter out of order.
Punctured carburetter float.
Engine carbonised.
Weak valve springs.
Pitted valve seats.
Worn piston rings.
Ignition setting incorrect.
Choked silencer.

Engine stops suddenly may be due to :
No petrol in tank, or choked petrol supply.

High-tension wire detached from sparking plug.
Choked main jet.
Oiled up, or fouled, sparking plug.
Water on high-tension pick-up, or sparking plug.
Water in float chamber.
Vent hole in petrol tank filler cap choked.

Excessive oil consumption may be due to :
(a) Clogged, or partly clogged, oil filter.

(b) Stoppage, or partial stoppage, in the pipe returning oil from the engine to the oil

tank.
(c) Badly worn, or stuck up, piston rings. (Causing high pressure in the crankcase.)
(d) Air leak in dry sump oiling system.
(e) Worn inlet valve stems.

Excessive petrol consumption may be due to :
(a) Leaks in the petrol feed system. (Damaged fibre washers, loose union nuts on

piping, defective float needle action.)
(b) Incorrect ignition setting. (Ignition not advanced sufficiently.)
(c) Defective engine valve action.
(d) Incorrect use of air control lever.
(e) Moving parts of carburetter badly worn. (Only possible after very considerable

mileage.)
(f) Bad air leak at carburetter junction, or inlet manifold joint,

ABNORMAL TYRE WEAR

Abnormal tyre wear may be due to :
(a) Incorrect tyre pressure.

(b) Wheels not in alignment.
(c) Harsh driving methods. (Misuse of acceleration and braking.)

EXCESSIVE PETROL CONSUMPTION

EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

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86

CLEANING THE MACHINE

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Do not attempt to rub, or brush, mud off the enamelled surfaces because this will soon
destroy the sheen of the enamel. Mud, and other road dirt, should be soaked off with
water.

The best method is to use a small hose, taking care not to direct water on to the engine,

carburetter, magneto and other such parts. As a poorer substitute, a pail of water and

a sponge may be used.
After washing down with water, the surplus moisture should be removed with a chamois

leather, and, when the enamelled surfaces are thoroughly dry, they may be polished
with a good wax polish and soft dusters.

Such parts as the engine crankcase and the gear box can be cleaned by applying paraffin
with a stiff brush, and, with a final application of petrol, will come up like new.

CHROMIUM PLATING

Under some climatic conditions, a rusty looking deposit may be observed on ferrous
parts that are chromium plated. This is not ordinary rust (ferric oxide) but is a salt

deposit that, in most cases and in its early stages, can be quickly and easily removed with a
damp chamois leather. In stubborn cases it may be necessary to use a special chromium
cleaning compound.

The safest precaution during Winter is to wipe over all chromium plated parts with a
soft rag in " TEKALL," which is a lanoline base rust preventative marketed in small
tins and available at most garages. This material, so applied, leaves an almost invisible
film that is impervious to moisture and its use cannot be too highly recommended to
owners who value the appearance of their mounts.

In Summer, when those conditions do not prevail, chromium parts should be frequently
cleaned with a damp chamois leather and afterwards polished with a soft duster, or,
better still, with a polisher of the " Selvyt " type.

If a polish is used it must be one of the special compounds for chromium plating only.
Ordinary metal polishing liquids, in particular, must not, on any account, be used because
these, almost without exception, contain acids, which attack chromium.

NOTE—" Tekall " is a product of 20th Century Finishes Ltd., 175-177, Kirkgate,

½ pint tin " Tekall," Part number 011957, price 2/-, plus 6d. postage.

1 pint tin " Tekall," Part number 011958, price 2/6, plus 6d. postage.

Wakefield, and is retailed in ½ pint and 1 pint tins. It can be obtained from
our Spare Parts Department, as follows :

REPAIRS

The instructions regarding repairs should be clear and definite, otherwise the cost may

be greater than that expected. We shall be pleased to give estimates for repairs if

parts are sent to us for that purpose. If the estimate is accepted, no charge is made for

She preliminary examination, but, should it be decided not to have the work carried out,

it MAY be necessary to make a charge to cover the cost of whatever dismantling and

re-assembly may have been done to prepare the estimate.
Customers desiring that old parts which are replaced with new during the course of

overhaul or repair be retained must make the fact known prior to the work being put
in hand because, normally, such parts, having no further useful life, are scrapped upon
removal.

87

Parts sent to us as patterns, or for repair, should have attached to them a label bearing

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the sender's full name and address. The instructions regarding such parts should be
sent under separate cover.

If it is necessary to bring a machine, or parts, to the Works for an urgent repair, IT IS

ESSENTIAL you MAKE AN APPOINTMENT beforehand to AVOID DISAPPOINT­MENT. This can be done by letter or telephone.

CORRESPONDENCE

Our routine is organised into different departments, therefore delay cannot be avoided
if matters relating to more than one department are contained in one letter.

Consequently, it is desirable, when communicating with more than one department,
to do so on SEPARATE SHEETS, each of which should bear your name and address.
IN PARTICULAR, requests for TECHNICAL ADVICE should not be on the same
sheets as ORDERS FOR SPARE PARTS.

When writing on a technical matter, or when ordering spares, it is essential to quote
the COMPLETE ENGINE NUMBER. Some numbers have one, or more, letters
incorporated in them and these letters MUST BE QUOTED, otherwise model identifi­cation is not possible.

PROPRIETARY FITTINGS

No expense is spared to secure and fit the most suitable, and highest quality, instruments
and accessories for the standard equipment of our machines.

Nevertheless, our Guarantee does not cover such parts and, in the event of trouble
being experienced, the parts in question should be returned to, and claims made, direct
on the actual manufacturers who will deal with them on the terms of their respective
guarantees.

Those manufacturers are :
Carburetters Messrs. Amalgamated Carburetters Ltd.,

Holford Works, Perry Barr, Birmingham.

Chains The Renold and Coventry Chain Co. Ltd.,

Didsbury, Manchester.

Electrical equipment Messrs. Joseph Lucas Ltd.,

Great King Street, Birmingham, 19.

Gear boxes Messrs. Burman and Sons Ltd.,

Wychall Lane, King's Norton, Birmingham, 13.

Sparking Plugs K.L.G. Sparking Plugs Ltd.,

Putney Vale, London, S.W.15.

Speedometers Messrs. S. Smith and Sons (M.A.) Ltd.,

Cricklewood, London.

Tyres Messrs. Dunlop Rubber Co. Ltd.,

Fort Dunlop, Birmingham.

All the above manufacturers issue instructive literature regarding their products which
is obtainable by writing to them.

88

SERVICE

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The Service and Repair Department is situated in Burrage Grove, Plumstead,

London, S.E.18. and is open on Mondays to Fridays from 8.30 a.m. to 12.55 p.m.—2.0

p.m. to 5.30 p.m. It is closed on Saturdays, Sundays and National Holidays.
It exists for the purposes of :

(a) Giving technical assistance verbally or through the post.
(b) Supplying spare parts over the counter or through the post.
(c) Repairing and re-conditioning machines, or parts of machines, of our make.

Burrage Grove is the first turning on the left from Burrage Road when entering

Burrage Road from the Plumstead Road. (See final paragraph below.)

The nearest Railway Station is WOOLWICH ARSENAL, SOUTHERN REGION

RAILWAY. This Station is five minutes walk from our Service Depot in Burrage

Grove. There is an excellent service of electric trains from Charing Cross, Waterloo,
Cannon Street and London Bridge Stations, Southern Region Railway.

Bus routes 53, 53a, 54, 99 and 122. Trolleybus routes, 696 and 698, and Tram routes
36, 38 and 40, pass the end of Burrage Road (one minute from the Service Depot).

Bus routes 21a, 75 and 161 and Tram routes 44, 46 and 72 serve Beresford Square
which is three minutes walk from the Service and Repair Department.

Visitors from the North can pass into Woolwich via the Free Ferry between North
Woolwich and Woolwich. North Woolwich is a British Railways terminus and is also
served by Bus and Trolleybus routes 101, 569, 669 and 685. There is also a tunnel
under the River Thames at this point for foot passengers. The Free Ferry accom­modates all types of motor vehicles and there is a very frequent service. The Southern
landing stage is less than a mile from the Service Depot.

Visitors arriving by road, if they are strangers to the locality, should enquire for

Beresford Square, Woolwich. Upon arrival there the road skirting the Royal

Arsenal should be followed in an Easterly direction for about four hundred yards, and

Burrage Road is the second turning on the right after leaving the Square. Burrage
Grove is then the first turning on the left.

THE DRIVER AND THE LAW

The driver of a motor cycle MUST be INSURED against Third Party Claims and MUST
be able to produce an INSURANCE CERTIFICATE showing that such an insurance

is in force.

If your Insurance Certificate specifies you can only drive one particular machine you

MUST NOT DRIVE any other machine unless its owner has a current Certificate
covering " ANY DRIVER " and it is advisable to remember that, in the absence of
such a provision the penalties for doing so are very heavy.

The driver of a motor cycle MUST hold a current DRIVING LICENCE. If you are a

learner and hold a Provisional Driving Licence, your machine must show, front and

back, the standard " L " plates in red and white and you must not take a PILLION

PASSENGER unless that passenger is the holder of a current UNRESTRICTED

driving licence.

As soon as you receive your driving licence, sign it in the appropriate place and do so

each time it is renewed. It is an offence not to.

Make sure you are well acquainted with the recommendations set down in the " Highway

Code," a copy of which can be obtained from any main Post Office.

89

THE MACHINE AND THE LAW

Every motor cycle used on the public roads must be registered and carry the registration
numbers and licence disc allotted to it. The dealer, from whom the machine is bought,
will, generally, attend to all matters legally essential before it is used on the public roads.

To register a new machine

Send to the Local Registration Authority the following :
(a) Form " RF1/2," duly completed.
(b) The certificate of insurance.
(c) The invoice you received from your dealer when you purchased the machine.
(d) The appropriate registration fee.

In due course you will receive :
(1) A Registration Book. (Commonly called the " log " book.)
(2) A Licence Disc.
(3) Your Insurance Certificate.
(4) Your Invoice.

The Registration Book and the Licence Disc will bear the registration numbers that have
been allotted to your machine and will also show the date the Road Licence expires.

Your number plates must then be painted, in white upon a black background, with the
registration numbers in characters of even thickness as follows :

The numbers on the front plate must be 1¾" high, 1¼" wide and c" thick with spaces of
½" between each two characters.

The numbers on the rear plate must be 2½" high, 1¾" wide and a" thick with spaces
½" between each two characters.

The Licence Disc must be enclosed in a water-tight container, having a transparent front,
and this must be fixed to the machine in a conspicuous position, near the front and on
the left-hand side.

It is not legally necessary to carry your Driving Licence, Insurance Certificate and
Registration Book while driving your machine.

Speedometer

A speedometer MUST be fitted and it MUST BE so ILLUMINATED that it is possible
to read the dial after lighting up time.

Lamps

During the official " LIGHTING UP " hours the machine must exhibit a white light
facing forwards and a red light facing rearwards. The rear number plate must be
adequately illuminated by a white light.

Each electric light bulb MUST be marked with its "Wattage." (Beware of cheap,
imported, bulbs that do not have this marking.)

All motor cycles made by us have electric equipment that complies with the law regarding
position, size of bulbs, marking on bulbs and the correct illumination of the rear number
plate.

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90

GUARANTEE

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We give the following guarantee with our motorcycles, motorcycle combinations and sidecars,
which is given in place of any implied conditions, warranties or liabilities whatsoever, statutory or
otherwise, all such implied conditions, warranties and liabilities being in all cases excluded. Any
statement, description, condition or representation contained in any catalogue, advertisement,
leaflet or other publication shall not be construed as enlarging, varying or overriding this guarantee.
In the case of machines (a) which have been used for " hiring-out " purposes or (b) any motorcycle
and/or sidecar used for any dirt track, cinder track or grass track racing or competitions (or any
competition of any kind within an enclosure for which a charge is made for admission to take part

in or view the competition) or (c) machines from which the trade mark, name or manufacturing
number has been removed, no guarantee, condition or warranty of any kind is given or is to be

implied.

We guarantee, subject to the conditions mentioned below, that all precautions which are usual and

reasonable have been taken by us to secure excellence of materials and workmanship, but this
guarantee is to extend and be in force for six months only from date of purchase, and damages for
which we make ourselves responsible under this guarantee are limited to the free supply of a new

part in exchange for the part of the motorcycle, motorcycle combination or sidecar which may

have proved defective. We do not undertake to replace or refix, or bear the cost of replacing or

refixing, such new part in the motorcycle, motorcycle combination or sidecar. We undertake,
subject to the conditions mentioned below, to make good at any time within six months any defects

in these respects. As motorcycles, motorcycle combinations and sidecars are easily liable to
derangement by neglect, or misuse, this guarantee does not apply to defects caused by wear and

tear, misuse or neglect.

The term " misuse " shall include amongst others the following acts :—

1. The attaching of a sidecar to a motorcycle in such a manner as to cause damage or
calculated to render the latter unsafe when ridden.

2. The use of a motorcycle or of a motorcycle and sidecar combined, when carrying more
persons or a greater weight than that for which the machine was designed by the
manufacturers.

3. The attaching of a sidecar to a motorcycle by any form of attachment not provided,
supplied or approved by us or to a motorcycle which is not designed for such use.

Any motorcycle, motorcycle combination or sidecar sent to us to be plated, enamelled or repaired
will be repaired upon the following conditions, i.e., we guarantee that all precautions which are usual
and reasonable have been taken by us to secure excellence of materials and workmanship, such
guarantee to extend and be in force for three months only from the time such w ork shall have been
executed or until the expiration of the six months above referred to, and this guarantee is in lieu
and in exclusion of any common law or statute warranty or condition, and the damages recoverable
are limited to the cost of any further work which may be necessary to amend and make good the
wo rk found to be defective.

CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE

If a defective part should be found in our motorcycles, motorcycle combinations or sidecars, or in
any part supplied by way of exchange before referred to, it must be sent to us CARRIAGE PAID
and accompanied by an intimation from the owner that he desires to have it repaired or exchanged
free of charge under our guarantee, and he must also furnish us at the same time with the number
of the machine, the date of the purchase or the date when the alleged defective part was exchanged
as the case may be.

Failing compliance with the above, such articles will lie here AT THE RISK OF THE OWNER, and
this guarantee and any implied guarantee, warranty or condition shall not be enforceable.

We do not guarantee specialities such as tyres, saddles, chains, electrical equipment, lamps, etc., or

any component parts supplied to the order of the Purchaser differing from standard specifications
supplied with our motorcycles, motorcycle combinations, sidecars or otherwise.

91

TOOLS AND SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

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TOOLS

The standard tool kit, issued with each new machine, contains :

1

017253

1

017114

2

017007

1

017248

1

011188

1

017256

1

017246

1

017249

1

017252

1

017254

1

017255

2

017052

1

017053

1

017251

1

015023

1

017250

1

010438

1

017257

Tool bag.
Tyre inflator.
Tyre levers.
Pliers.
Gudgeon pin circlip pliers.
Screwdriver.
Grease gun.
Adjustable wrench.
Sparking plug box spanner and tommy bar.
Dynamo spanner.
Triple spanner.
Double end spanner. Small.
Double end spanner. Large.
Contact point spanner and gauge (Not Competition).
Contact point spanner and gauge (Competition).
Hub lock nut hook spanner. (Front hub bearings and rear

hub on rigid frame models.)
Hub lock nut hook spanner (rear hub bearings on spring

frame models).
Double end spanner.

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

The following items of optional equipment are available. They are described and
priced in the Spares List.

(a) Air cleaner.
(b) Mudguard type pillion seat.
(c) Pillion footrests, bolted on, to fold up when not in use and specially designed for

these machines. (Not on competition)

(d) Detachable luggage carrier. (Not on competition).
(e) Timing disc 015955. A circular timing disc, graduated in degrees and made of

ivorine. A very useful device.

(f) Valve holder, for valve grinding. Part number 017482.
(g) Valve spring compressor. Part number 014605. (See page 29).
(h) Pannier frames and bags for spring frame and rigid models.

SPARES LIST

An illustrated and priced spares list is available at a cost of 2/6 post free. (See page 29).

GASKET SETS

For convenience in ordering, standard sets of engine washers and gaskets as well as the
washers used in the petrol and oil feed systems are stocked. Full details of contents
and prices are included in the Spares List.

92

BADGES

www.ajs-matchless.info

Neat monogram badges are now available at a cost of 1/6, plus 6d. postage. They can
be supplied as a tie pin, as a brooch or for fitting in a button hole. When ordering
state type required.

Illustration 39

93

ILLUSTRATIONS

Illustrations Page

Battery
Brake adjustment, front
Brake adjustment, rear (rigid frame)
Brake adjustment, rear (spring frame)
Brake shoe adjustment
Brake pedal adjustment
Carburetter
Clutch
Clutch lever
Contact breaker
Contact breaker details
Controls
Cut-out unit
Engine lubrication
Flywheels
Fork component details
Fork damper details
Gear box
Gear lever positions
Hub bearing details
Hub, rear
Kick-starter engagement
Lamp panel
Leg, teledraulic, rear
Lubrication chart
Oil tank
Oil pump
Rear spring frame
Sparking plug
Tank fixing details
Tappet adjustment
Timing valve, inlet only
Timing valve, exhaust only
Tools
Valve lubrication
Valve spring compressor
Wire connector, snap type
Wire connector, screwed type
Wiring diagram, theoretical

34
26

28
29
25
27
15
17
18
30
31

1

33

5
10
20
19
16

3
24
23

2
35
22

7

4
14
21
32

8
13

11
12
39

6

9
36
37
38

80
69
70
71
68
70
38
46
48
74
75

9

79
17
30
56
53
41
11
66
65
10
81
59
22
14
36
58
76
26

34
33

33
93
19
29
82
83
84

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94

INDEX

Carburetter Service
Controls
Data
Driving
Electrical Service
Engine Service
Free Service
Fork and Frame Service
Guarantee
Introduction
Lubrication
Lubrication Chart
Maintenance
Service
Rear teledraulic legs
Repairs
The Law
Tools and Special Equipment
Transmission Service
Useful Information
Wheel, Brake and Tyre Service

39

8

4
10
74
26
25
52
91

2
15
22
23
89
58
87
89
92
42
85
62

SPARES

AND

SERVICE

DEPARTMENTS

HOURS OF BUSINESS

FOR CALLERS

MONDAYS 8.30 a.m. to 12.55 p.m.

2.0 p.m. to 5.30 p.m.

TUESDAYS Ditto

WEDNESDAYS Ditto
THURSDAYS Ditto
FRIDAYS Ditto

NOT OPEN ON NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

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95

KEY TO THE COLOURED
IDENTIFICATION BANDS ON
THE NUMBERED CABLES
SHOWN IN THE WIRING
DIAGRAM ON PAGE 84.

1
7

8
13
14

RED
RED and BLACK
YELLOW
YELLOW and BLACK
BLUE

15
23
28
31
33

BLUE and WHITE
WHITE and PURPLE
GREEN and BLACK
PURPLE
BLACK

BY USING GENUINE SPARES YOU ARE ASSURED THEY
WILL FIT ACCURATELY AND GIVE SATISFACTORY SERVICE

PURCHASED FROM
AN AUTHORISED " A • J • S " DEALER OR
FROM THE FACTORY, ARE IDENTICAL
WITH THE PARTS ORIGINALLY BUILT

INTO YOUR MOTOR CYCLE.

GENUINE

A • J • S SPARES

www.ajs-matchless.info

96

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