Furnace Humidifier
2
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Question:
Answer: The unit will work on most forced air furnaces
incorporating a heating source, a supply duct, and a return duct
at least 8” in width.
Comment: The technology used in this humidifier to deliver
moisture to the air is the simplest and easiest style, a bypass type
evaporative humidifier. Your furnace fan creates a pressure difference
between the supply air (hot, high pressure) and return air (cold, low
pressure). By installing a bypass tube between the supply and return
duct a small amount of air is forced (via the pressure difference) to
flow from the supply duct through the humidifier’s evaporator pad
and back into the return duct. What will differ from furnace to
furnace or home to home is how much moisture or capacity you will
get from the unit. There are several factors which will affect this, how
old is your home, how old is your furnace, how well insulated is your
home. For example, the capacity for this unit is 15 US gallons per 24
hrs of operation. This is based on ARI standards (120’F hot air temp,
60’F water supply temp, 0.5” static pressure difference between
supply & return duct), used by all humidifier manufacturers. If your
furnace is a hi efficiency or pulse type furnace the hot air
temperature may be less, or the length of time the furnace burner is
on may be less; therefore as a rule of thumb we would say you
would get approx. 75% to 80% of rated output.
Question: How much moisture does the humidifier deliver to
the air in my home?
Answer: This model will deliver 15 US Gallons (12.5 Imperial
gallons, 57 litres) per 24 hours of operation.
Comment: 24 hours of operation means at design conditions; your
furnace will only deliver the required hot air (120’F) when it is on.
Your furnace should not cycle more than 1/3 of the time so the 24
hours of humidifier operation may take up to 3 days to complete.
Question: How much water does this humidifier use?
Answer: This humidifier is 100% efficient, meaning all the water it
uses is delivered to the air to humidifier your home. It will use 15
US gallons (12.5 Imperial gallons, 57 litres) per 24 hrs of operation.
Comment: As mentioned above 24 hours of operation means at
design conditions – your furnace will only deliver the required
hot air (120’F) when it is on. Your furnace should not cycle more
than 1/3 of the time so the 24 hours of humidifier operation may
take up to 3 days to complete.
Question: I’m replacing an old humidifier on my furnace
can I use the old components?
Answer: You should replace all the components to ensure good
operation. You may be able to utilize the existing duct cut outs for
the new install however some reworking may be required.
Comment: As a rule we like to see you change all the
components, particularly the water supply tube. As over time
minerals, solids, or sludge may have built up, these will very
quickly clog the water inlets, or over time the tube may have
become worn or leaky. Replace the bypass duct as well, there
may be secondary dampers unseen which will block air or again
What type of furnaces will this humidifier work on?
there may be unseen wear. The same goes for electrical
components or wiring these may be malfunctioning or worn out.
Note: If you have a humidifier which was interlocked with your
furnace (meaning the humidifier only came on when the furnace
came on) then the old transformer is wired in with your furnace.
Do not attempt to disconnect this transformer from the furnace
only disconnect the low voltage side wires for the humidifier and
tape over the terminals.
Question: I’ve installed the humidifier on my furnace and it
is functioning properly but I do not feel anything and
humidistat reading is not changing, is the humidifier working?
Answer: As long as there is hot air going through the humidifier
and there is water pan and the drum assembly is getting wet then
moisture is being delivered to the air in your home.
Comment: All year, and especially during the winter months
when many combustion appliance are operating in your home,
fresh outdoor air is required to ensure a healthy environment for
your family. Do not think of your home as a sealed bubble, no
matter how well insulated, all homes breath (some more than
others). The cold dry outside air is mixing with the air in your
home constantly, even when your furnace is not running. A
furnace humidifier will work to offset the constant effect the dry
outside air has on your home, and your home’s furnishings.
Throughout the winter there is a constant diminishing and
replenishing of moisture levels in the home, conditions inside and
out rarely remain stagnant for any length of time.
Installation
• READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS FULLY BEFORE INSTALLING
THIS PRODUCT.
• SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR REFERENCE.
• SHUT THE WATER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON THE HUMIDIFIER.
• SHUT THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON THE
HUMIDIFIER.
• TAKE PRECAUTION WHEN CUTTING OR HANDING METAL
PCS. (CUT DUCT WORK), SHARP EDGES CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY.
• WHEN DRILLING OR CUTTING INTO DUCTING BE
EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE AIRCONDITIONING COILS OR OTHER FURNACE APPARATUS.
• THIS UNIT MUST BE INSTALLED IN 8” WIDE DUCT
MINIMUM.
• DO NOT INSTALL THIS UNIT WHERE EXTREME TEMPERATURES
EXIST (BELOW 8˚C / 45˚F OR ABOVE 63˚C / 145˚F).
• THIS UNIT IS NOT SUPPLIED WITH A DRAIN TUBE.
HOWEVER WE DO RECOMMEND YOU PURCHASE AND
INSTALL A
INSTRUCTIONS) TO PROTECT AGAINST WATER
OVERFLOW.
• FOR THIS UNIT TO OPERATE PROPERLY IT MUST BE
INSTALLED ON A FORCED AIR HEATING SYSTEM WITH A
SUPPLY DUCT AND RETURN DUCT.
• THE HUMIDIFIER AND THE BYPASS COLLAR DAMPER ARE
TO BE INSTALLED ON DUCTING ONLY. UNDER NO
CIRCUMSTANCES MOUNT ANY COMPONENT TO THE
FURNACE BODY.
1
/2” DRAIN TUBE (SEE SECTION INSTALLATION
Furnace Humidifier
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS:
Furnace Humidifier
3
• ELECTRICAL WIRING, WATER SUPPLY, AND DRAIN TUBE
MUST NOT KINK OR COME INTO CONTACT WITH SHARP
EDGES OR HOT SURFACES.
• IF REPLACING AN EXISTING FURNACE HUMIDIFIER, WE
RECOMMEND YOU REPLACE ALL COMPONENTS TO
ENSURE PROPER HUMIDIFIER OPERATION.
• THE INSTALLATION OF THIS PRODUCT MUST COMPLY
WITH NATIONAL AND LOCAL ELECTRICAL, PLUMBING,
BUILDING, AND MECHANICAL CODES.
REQUIRED TOOLS
• Safety glasses
•Workgloves
• Electric or cordless drill
3
• Drill bits (
• Tin snips
• Full size Philips or Roberstons screw driver
• Short handle Philips or Roberstons screw driver
• Adjustable wrench
• Utility knife
• Pliers
• Level
• Tape
• Measuring tape or ruler
• Medium-grit sand paper
• Pencil
/8",1/8",7/32”,7/64")
no more than 30” to ensure maximum air flow through the
humidifier.
3. The supplied flex bypass tube is cut to the proper length and
pulled tight to ensure maximum air flow.
4. The humidistat is located a minimum of 6” upstream of the
humidifier, where moist air will enter the return duct.
5. The bypass damper is fully open.
6. The humidifier is mounted level on the duct.
7. There is nothing inside the duct behind the bypass collar and
damper or the humidifier body.
8. The humidifier body and the bypass collar and damper are level.
IDEAL INSTALLATION
Figure 1
Damper fully open
SUPPLY DUCT
HOT AIR
RETURN DUCT
COLD AIR
No more
than 30"
8" wide duct minimum
Bypass collar and
unit level
Bypass tube pulled
tight and cut to length
SELECTION OF LOCATION
TO MOUNT THE HUMIDIFIER
All bypass type furnace-mount humidifiers rely on the pressure
difference which exists between the supply duct (hot air) and the
return duct (cold air) to create an air flow through the
humidifier’s evaporator pad. The air will ALWAYS flow from hot
(high pressure) to cold (low pressure).
•INSTALLATION TIP: Before starting fully plan out the
installation. Check for the locations of the humidifier,
bypass collar & damper, and the humidistat and
associated sensors. Plan the length and type of ducting
required, the water supply, the water drain, the electrical
wiring, and a constant 120 volt outlet to plug in the
transformer. This will ensure your installation goes as
easy and quickly as possible
1. The humidifier body and bypass tube are installed at eye level,
easily accessible for installation and routine maintenance.
2. The space between the humidifier body and bypass tube are
Not all installations will be as shown above – in cases where:
• The bypass duct
required is more than
the supplied 30”
• The bypass collar and
damper must be
installed above or
below the humidifier
• The bypass collar and
damper must be
installed
perpendicular to the
humidifier
Use hard metal duct and
hard metal elbows. This will
minimize the amount of air-
SNAP OFF
AND SAVE
flow restriction.
Figure 2
Furnace Humidifier
4
HUMIDIFIER BODY INSTALLATION
This humidifier is designed to be mounted on the return duct
(cold air) for safety reasons. This will minimize the exposure to
high temperatures and extend product/component life. Always
take precaution to ensure that water supply tube, water drain
tube, any electrical wiring does not become kinked or come into
contact with sharp edges or hot surfaces. Keep in mind that the
humidistat must be mounted at least 6” upstream from the
humidifier cabinet, where moist air enters the duct.
CAUTION: When cutting or drilling into ducting take care not to
damage any air-conditioning coils or other furnace apparatus.
CAUTION: Wear safety glasses and work gloves when installing
this unit, sharp metal edges can cause severe injury.
CAUTION: Turn the furnace off before starting this installation.
This humidifier cabinet consists of two side panels (bypass side
panel and motor side panel), a front cover, and a water pan. The
surface of the duct will form the rear of the humidifier cabinet.
STEP #1: RIGHT HAND DUCTING OR LEFT HAND DUCTING
Once you have decided the best location for the humidifier
determine if the unit must be left or right hand ducting. This will
depend on whether the hot air duct is to the left or right of the
cold air duct. (Fig. 3) The side panels are symmetrical so setting
up for left or right hand ducting is done by flipping the panel 180
degrees. (Fig. 4)
RIGHTHAND DUCTING
SUPPLY DUCT
RETURN DUCT
COLD AIR
HOT AIR
LEFTHAND DUCTING
RETURN DUCT
SUPPLY DUCT
HOT AIR
COLD AIR
STEP #2: MOUNTING THE HUMIDIFIER CABINET ON THE DUCT
If you have not already done so, remove the humidifier side
panels from the carton. Locate the “Humidifier Cabinet
Mounting Template”.
CAUTION: When cutting or drilling into ducting take care not to
damage any air-conditioning coils or other furnace apparatus.
CAUTION: Wear safety glasses and work gloves when installing
this unit. Sharp metal edges can cause severe injury.
CAUTION: Turn off the furnace before beginning this installation.
DRILLING THE HOLES AND MAKING THE CUTOUT
1. Use adhesive tape to affix the
template onto the duct in the
selected location. Use the level
Figure 5
DRILL HOLES
line on the template to ensure the
humidifier cabinet will be
mounted level.
2. Drill the 4 marked
1
/8” side panel
HUMIDIFIER
CUT-OUT
mounting holes. (Fig. 5)
3
3. Using a
/8” drill bit (not supplied)
drill a hole inside the rectangle
area marked “Humidifier Cut
Out”. (Fig. 6)
Figure 6
DRILL CUT-OUT
4. Using the3/8” hole as a starting
point cut out the Humidifier Cut
Out area marked on the template
using tin snips (not supplied). Cut
HUMIDIFIER
CUT-OUT
on the outside of the lines to
ensure the cabinet will fit.
5. Remove remaining portion of the
template from the duct.
Figure 7
MOUNTING THE BYPASS
SIDE PANEL
Figure 3
Flipped 180˚
Flipped 180˚
Figure 4
6. Mount the bypass side panel to
the duct first. This is the side of
the humidifier closest to the hot
air duct.
7. Use 2 of the supplied screws to
secure the bypass side panel onto
the duct work. The screws will
install through two holes on the
bypass side panel flange into two of
the holes drill in #2. (Fig. 7)
MOUNTING THE MOTOR
SIDE PANEL
8. Repeat the last two steps for the
motor side panel. (Fig. 8)
9. After the side panels are mounted
onto the duct install the two strips
of gasket on the duct in between
the two sides top and bottom, as
shown in figure 9.
Figure 8
Figure 9
BOTTOM
GASKET