Die DÜRKOPP ADLER 579 is an automatic sewing machine designed
for sewing buttonholes in light to medium-heavy material.
Such material, which is generally made of textile or synthetic fibres, is
used in the clothing industry. This sewing machine can also be used to
produce so-called technical seams. In this case, however, the operator
must assess the possible dangers which may arise (with which
DÜRKOPP ADLER would be happy to assist), since such applications
are on the one hand relatively unusual and, on the other, they are so
varied that no single set of criteria can cover them all. The outcome of
this assessment may require appropriate safety measures to be taken.
Generally only dry material may be sewn with this machine. The
material may be no thicker than 8mmwhen compressed by the
lowered upper material clamps.
The material may not contain any hard objects. The machine may only
be operated with finger and eye protection. The seam is generally
produced with sewing threads of gauge up to 80/2 Nm (synthetic
threads with or without cotton covering). Before using any other thread
the possible dangers arising must be assessed and appropriate safety
measures taken if necessary. This machine may be set up and
operated only in dry, well-maintained premises. If it is used in other
premises which are not dry and well-maintained it may be necessary to
take further precautions (which should be agreed in advance - see EN
60204-31: 1999). As manufacturers of industrial sewing machines we
proceed on the assumption that personnel who work on our products
will have received training at least sufficient to acquaint them with all
normal operations and with any hazards which these may involve.
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1.2Brief description
Depending on the subclass, the DÜRKOPP ADLER 579 is a
double-chainstitch buttonhole machine or a single-thread chainstitch
eyelet machine with CNC step motor for fabric feed and rotating
sewing mechanism.
As a buttonhole machine it works with two chainstitch loopers, the left
one carrying the thread, sewing buttonholes with or without an eye,
with taper, round or cross tacks.
As an eyelet machine it works with two chainstitch dummy loopers,
sewing single-thread eyelets.
The various subclasses of the 579 are fitted with different
thread-trimming systems.
Technical features
The machine is driven by a positioning drive built into the machine arm.
The movements of the X, Y and Z axles are driven by a step motor.
These drives are controlled by a DAC 2 electronic controller in
conjunction with various pneumatic machine functions.
The BF 2A operating panel is mounted in a visible location on the
machine arm and is thus easily accessible to the operator. This
drive-and-controller system has the following advantages:
–
Variable sewing speed depending on parameters such as the upper
thread, bobbin thread, material, seam width) up to a maximum of
2200 stitches/min.
–
Very quiet operation because there is no mechanical connection
and disconnection.
Additional noise reduction from the new needle-bar and looper
drive.
5
–
The use of step motors confers great versatility. No use of control
cams.
–
One-pedal operation for the following functions:
- close/open clamps
- switching on the sewing process
- rapid halt with needle lift
–
Pneumatically-operated thread-trimming system with short drive
distances for precise operation.
–
Pneumatic buttonhole slit.
–
Central oil-wick lubrication from two oil reservoirs.
–
Simple cutting-block replacement.
–
Seam-width alteration in the cross tack.
–
The special design of the machine arm permits the use of a
different material holder (optional extra) enabling the material to be
placed lengthwise.
–
Smooth design with casing. A gas-pressure spring helps to swing
the machine up and ensures that the head does not swing down
too quickly.
–
Vertically-operating cutting-block holders mean that no finishing-off
work is necessary even with different cutting-block heights.
–
After the material has been released a display setting enables the
cloth carrier plate to move to the starting position for the next
buttonhole, which improves visibility for material positioning.
Controller
–
A counter, shown in the display, counts the number of buttonholes
sewn.
–
A number of parameters can be set on the BF 2A operating panel,
depending on the subclass and buttonhole shape. These include
the following:
- with or without eye
- speed max. 2200 rpm
- buttonhole length, various ranges depending on the subclass
- cut before or after sewing
- no cutting
- stitch count in the eye
- stitch distance
- taper tack overlap
- taper tack length
- overlap in round tacks and eyelets
- overlap in the round tack
- number of stitches in the round tack
- stitch distance in the cross tack
6
1.3Subclasses
579-112000 With short trimmer for the upper and bobbin threads. The
bobbin-thread trimmer is located in the throat plate, enabling the
thread to be severed very close to the material. For taper, round and
cross tacks. Can also be used for double-chainstitch eyelets in
conjunction with appropriate sewing apparatus.
Fitted as standard with an electropneumatic upper thread catcher.
No lower gimp.
579-121000With short trimmer for the upper thread and long
trimmer (thread length ca. 30 mm) for bobbin thread and gimp. Cutting
before or after sewing, with or without taper, round or cross tack.
The bobbin thread and gimp can thus be either pulled tight or passed
through to sew a lockstitch tack afterwards.
After the cross tack has been sewn they are short-trimmed by hand.
For cut lengths up to 38 mm: fitted as standard with electropneumatic
thread catcher and gimp guide. This grasps the upper thread as soon
as it is severed, holds it clamped and inserts it into the right side to
sew the next buttonhole. This means:
- a secure seam start, even in light, loose weaves - tight starting
stitches
- a clean buttonhole underside, hence no need for trimming.
1
579-141000
With short trimmer for the upper thread, bobbin thread and lower gimp.
The material is not released by the material clamps until the
thread-trimming process is complete, which means that the lower
thread and lower gimp are trimmed very short .
Cutting before or after sewing, with or without taper, round or cross
tack.
On this machine the buttonhole length, cut length and taper-tack length
can be altered by fitting different clamp-plate sets.
Clamp-plate sets for five groups of cut lengths exist.
L1 for cut lengths of 12-16 mm in 2 mm increments
L2 for cut lengths of 16-20 mm in 2 mm increments
L3 for cut lengths of 20-24 mm in 2 mm increments
L4 for cut lengths of 24-28 mm in 2 mm increments
L5 for cut lengths of 28-32 mm in 2 mm increments.
Within these cut-length groups various taper-tack lengths are possible.
With thread catcher and gimp guide.
579-151000
With short trimmer for the upper thread.
A universal machine for buttonholes with cut lengths of 10-50 mm in
materials of various qualities and thicknesses, available with or without
lower gimp depending on sewing apparatus. Can also be used for
single-chainstitch eyelets in conjunction with appropriate sewing
apparatus.
(depending on38 mm (subclass 579-121000)
sewing apparatus)38 mm (subclass 579-141000)
50 mm (subclass 579-151000)
Max. cut length:38 mm (subclass 579-112000)
(depending on38 mm (subclass 579-121000)
sewing apparatus)36 mm (subclass 579-141000)
50 mm (subclass 579-151000)
1
Operating pressure:6 bar ± 0.5 bar
Air consumption:approx. 5 NL per working cycle
Rated power:1.4 kVA
Rated voltage:1 x 190-240 V, 50/60 Hz
on delivery:1 x 230 V, 50-60 Hz
Dimensions:1060 x 750 x 1030 mm (LxWxH)
Working height:750...895 mm (upper edge of table plate)
Weight:approx. 170 kg
Rated noise value:Lc = 79 dB (A)
Workplace-related emission value in accordance with
DIN 45635-48-B-1
(sewing cycle 6s ON and 1s OFF)
Stitch length:1.2 mm
speed:2200 rpm
material:double denim 509g/m²
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3.Operation
3.1Needles, yarns and gimps
Needles
Needle system:579
Needle thicknesses:Nm 90-125
The needle thickness to be used for each machine and its sewing
apparatus (E no.) is given on the nameplate.
Yarns
The appearance of the buttonhole is greatly affected by the yarn used.
Synthetic-fibre yarns or even silk yarn can be used as the needle and
bobbin threads.
The appearance of the buttonhole is greatly affected by
–
–
Gimps
The gimp stabilises the buttonhole and at the same time gives it a
plastic shape.
It should have the following characteristics:
–
–
depending on the type of thread and material and the
sewing apparatus (E no.).
the yarn used
the use of different thicknesses for the needle and bobbin threads.
not too thick, but supple and strong
constant diameter.
The recommended yarns in the following table are only guidelines.
Other yarns and yarn thicknesses may be required, depending on the
sewing apparatus (E no.) and the material.
Subclassupper thread typebobbin thread typelower gimp thread type
The clamp plates 1 must be removed and replaced with the machine
switched off or in the “firm hold” position. Inadvertently operating the
pedal with the main switch turned on may lead to damage or injury.
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1
Removing the clamp plates
–
Slightly raise the right or left (depending on the subclass) clamp
plate 1 and remove it forwards.
–
Slightly raise the other clamp plate 1 and remove it forwards.
Fitting the clamp plates
–
First fit the left or right clamp plate 1.
The pin 2 must engage in the jaws 3.
–
Then fit the second clamp plate 1.
The pin 2 must engage in the jaws 3.
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3.3Changing the needle
1
2
3
Caution: danger of injury
The needle must be changed with the machine switched off or in the
“firm hold” position.
–
Undo screw 1.
–
Pull the needle 2 out of the needle bar.
–
Push the new needle as far as it will go into the hole in the needle
bar.
–
Align the needle 2 so that its throat points forward and the surface
3 on the needle piston to the left (in the direction of the attachment
screw 1).
–
Tighten screw 1.
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3.4Threading the upper thread
1
Caution: danger of injury
The upper thread may only be threaded with the machine switched off
or in threading mode (see “threading mode” section).
–
Thread the upper thread as shown in the illustrations.
–
To thread the upper thread insert the threading wire (in the
accessory kit) upwards through the hollow needle bar 1 from below.
–
Place the top end of the upper thread in the hook.
–
Pull the upper thread down with the wire.
–
Thread the upper thread into the needle by drawing it forwards.
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