Acura RL 1996 2004 User Manual

CAUTION

Detailed descriptions of standard workshop procedures, safety principles and service operations are not included. Please note that this manual does contain warnings and cautions against some specific service methods which could cause PERSONAL INJURY, damage a vehicle, or make it unsafe. Please understand that these warnings cannot cover all conceivable ways in which service, whether or not recommended by Honda, might be done or of the possible hazardous consequences of each conceivable way, nor could Honda investigate all such ways. Anyone using service procedures or tools, whether or not recommended by Honda, must satisfy himself thoroughly that neither personal safety or vehicle safety will be jeopardized.

CAUTION

Indicates a possibility of personal injury or equipment damage if instructions are not followed.

WARNING

Indicates a strong possibility of severe personal injury or death if instructions are not followed.

Special Information

All information contained in this manual is based on the latest product information available at the time of printing. We reserve the right to make changes at any time without notice. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. This includes text, figures and tables.

This manual covers the repairs of a 1996-2004 Acura 3.5RL that has been involved in an accident, and it describes the work related to the replacement of damaged body parts. Please read through these instructions and familiarize yourself with them before actually using this manual. NOTE: Refer to the applicable 1996-2004 Acura 3.5RL Service Manual and Supplements for specifications, wire harness locations, safety stand support points, etc.

How to Use This Manual

NOTE: Gives helpful information.

HONDA MOTOR CO., LTD.

Service Publication Office

Preparation of Work

Welding Methods/ Repair Tools

General Information

Replacement

Cross Section of Body and Sealants

INTRODUCTION

Body Dimensional Drawings

Rust-preventive Treatments

Body Paint Repair

Resin Parts Paint Repair (Exterior)

Paint Repair

Service Precautions

General Safety Precautions

1996-2004 Acura 3.5RL Body Repair Manual

Preparation of Work

• Most monocoque bodies are composed as a single unit by welding together pressed parts made of steel plates which come in a variety of different shapes and sizes. Each part is responsible for displaying a certain strength and durability in order that it may play its role in meeting the functions of the body as a whole.

Damage to the exterior of the body can be inspected visually, but where there has been an external impact, it is necessary to inspect the extent of the damage. In some cases, the deformation has spread beyond the actual areas which were in the collision and so this has to be inspected closely.

Unit:mm (in)

Front wheel alignment:

Rear wheel alignment:

Description

Checkpoints

• Accurate Inspection of Damaged Parts (Visual)

Seat Belts Replace the seat belts if:

1. The airbags have been deployed.

2. The belt material is cut, punctured, burned or in any way damaged.

3. The buckle or retractor does not work properly.

4. They were being worn at the time of a collision (check for damage at the seat belt anchor points.)

5. Their condition is questionable.

Front Section:

1. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?

2. Is there any deformation of the front bulkhead or radiator core? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

3. Are there any creases or distortion in the front wheelhouse or side frame? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

4. Is there any bending or twisting of the whole front area?

5. Is there any deformation like creases, bulges, or dents in the front pillar, dashboard, floor, etc.?

6. Is there any vertical twisting or misaligned clearance in the door?

7. Is the windshield seal broken?

8. Is there any deformation in the vicinity of the top part of the roof panel's center pillar?

9. Is there any damage inside the automobile (is there any twisting of the dashboard, or anything irregular with the clearances or sheet-mounting parts)?

10. Is there any damage to the steering wheel? Is there any deformation in the column and the column-mounted parts?

11. Is there any oil or water leakage and damage to the engine, transmission or brakes?

12. Is there any irregular noise in the gear changing operation, engine and transmission rotation?

13. Are there any traces of contact between the engine block and the dashboard lower panel?

14. Is there any damage to brake or fuel lines, or wire harnesses?

Rear Section:

1. Is there any twisting, bulging or denting of the rear floor and rear bolsters? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

2. Is there any irregular bulging or denting in the rear fender?

3. Is there any distortion in the rear inner panel? Is there any bending and denting in the vicinity of the rear pillar?

4. Is there any distortion or creasing is the rear wheelhouse and arch sections? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

5. Is there anything irregular in the rear glass seal clearance?

6. Is there any twisting or misalignment of the clearance of the trunk lid opening section?

7. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?

8. Is there any deformation of the rear floor, rear floor cross member and damper base? Have any of the connected sections

come apart?

Preparation of Work

Correction of the Damaged Area

Set the frame corrector on the car body. The side sill is flangeless to allow reshaping by pulling it out.

Use the horizontal pinch welds for anchoring the car.

Underbody Clamp: AMERICA KOWA SEIKI, INC. 20013 South Rancho Way Rancho Dominguez, California 90220 TEL 310-638-1000 FAX 310-638-3005

Underbody Clamp Specifications:

UNDERBODY CLAMPS

UNDERBODY CLAMP (Special tool)

Clamp Number

AT-63

Clamp body Side clamp Under clamp

(Without side clamp thin and attachment)

ATTACHMENT

NOTE:Use a side clamp thin plate, clamp the side flange of the sides sill when the door is closed.

ATTACHMENT

Number

Frame Correctors

Standard type:

AT-63-AL

• Dataliner • Celette

• Car-o-liner • Flex-o-liner

•

etc.

C-type:

AT-63-C

Inner diameter

65 mm

(2.6

in)

• Korek

• Auto pole

•

etc.

U - type:

AT-63-U

Inner diameter

20 mm

(0.8

in)

• U-Base

• Pro-Tec

•

etc.

1. Apply load to the damaged section and pull it out until the section is almost restored to the original shape.

2. Check that the parts of the body they cover have been more or less restored to their original shapes.

NOTE: Check the original position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) and the positioning jigs (see page 1-7).

3. Remove the parts that require replacement.

4. Decide whether to replace all the affected parts or

whether to cut the weld joint parts and replace them.

5. Cut off and separate the damaged parts.

NOTE: When cutting the parts off, take special care that you do not damage adjacent parts on the automo-

bile.

Setting Condition of Replacement Parts Joint Sections:

• Make sure that you can perform straightening work after welding.

• Make sure that the locations are not susceptible to distortion caused by other parts.

• Make sure that there are few removable parts and that the location allows safe welding.

• Make sure that the joints are short, and that paint repair can be performed easily.

• Make sure the locations are such that the joints can be finished in a way that does not affect the outward appearance.

• Make sure that the locations do not hinder the removing and attaching of parts.

NOTE: Bear in mind all of these conditions, and after determining the joint locations, cut the joints for an overlap of 20~30 mm (0.8~1.2 in).

6. Mold the related parts.

7. Set and tack weld the replacement parts.

NOTE: Temporarily mount the related parts and check

the clearance and level differences.

8. Weld the replacement parts. Welding methods (see section 2).

NOTE: Use of the positioning jig is recommended.

CAUTION: Protect body parts with the heat-resistant protective cover to prevent damage, when welding.

The paint film, which is designed to prevent corrosion caused by moisture, is destroyed around the edges of the locations which have been repaired by welding.

Therefore, in such places and especially in those areas

which are not visible, apply another coat of the paint, referring to the anti-corrosion painting manual. This operation is designed to maintain durability and quality

(see section 7).

Preparation of Work

Measurement (Excluding small damage)

POINTER A

If there is any twisting to the body, measure using a frame centering gauge.

Pointer B - short pointer (height adjustment 15 - 290 mm (0.6 - 11.4 in))

- long pointer (height adjustment 185 - 450 mm (7.3 - 17.7 in)) SET RING

HEIGHT

SET SCREW

When measuring body dimensions, use a universal tram gauge.

Whenever possible, make judgements and conclusions based on measurement. Measure the wheel alignment (see page 1-2) so as to prevent any future trouble like unsymmetrical wear of the tires or catching of the steering wheel.

If there are any deviations, use a tram tracking gauge and measure parts of the body.

Positioning Jigs

Positioning Jig:

AMERICA KOWA SEIKI, INC.

20013 South Rancho Way Rancho Dominguez, California 90220

TEL 310-638-1000 FAX 310-638-3005

4-9,

4-16, 4-41

4-9,

4-16

4-41

Welding Methods/Repair Tools

Spot Welding

Spot welding is also known as resistance spot welding, and it is the most suitable method of welding for automobiles. It has three main features: the welding can be performed instantaneously, it exercises very little effect on the mother material, and it reduces

the generation of distortion to the absolute minimum. However, please remember to remove all paint and other impurities from the surface of the material you intend to weld for reliable results.

Welders:

Welding Conditions:

When performing spot welding, make absolutely sure that you conform to the conditions governed by the current, conductivity time, welding pressure, holding time, and shutdown time recommended for the spot welder.

Please bear in mind the following points when welding:

• Plate thickness and minimum welding pitch

NOTE: When the welding intervals are too small, this leads to branching, making it impossible to maintain the desired soldering state.

• Plate thickness and tip diameter

• Welding Strength Test

Even if you perform the welding in accordance with the conditions, the strength of the welded sections may fluctuate widely with

drops in the voltage and other factors. The quality of the welding cannot be evaluated unless the welded sections are destroyed.

Provide yourself with a steel plate of the same thickness and conduct a destruction test.

• If holes appear in the steel plates, this means that the welding is standard strength.

• Drive a wedge between two panels near the nugget. If the welded parts do not come apart and the diameter of the nugget is more than 3mm (0.1 in), the welding

should be satisfactory.

NOTE: It is difficult to perform spot welding in the following circumstances:

• When it is not possible to remove any rust or paint attached to the welding surfaces.

• When the tip of the spot welder cannot be inserted into the welding section.

• When the welding surfaces can be seen from the outside and welding will impair the exterior appearance.

In all these cases, the gas welding method should be employed. Moreover, if it is not possible to perform spot welding because of space restrictions, plug welding using on the arc welding method may be performed instead. For plug welding, the sections to be

welded must be close together.

Welding Methods/Repair Tools

Gas Welding

Gas welding is indispensable for body repair because of the broad range of its applications for joining the body panels, cutting the materials that construct the body, and applying heat to reform panels, and also because it is easy to get hold of the tools. However, this method requires experience.

Welders:

Welding Methods:

Carbon Dioxide Arc Welder (MIG Arc Weld)

This welding process uses inexpensive carbon dioxide instead of expensive inert gases as a shielding means. Consumable metal electrodes are employed. It has a wide range of applications, including butt welding of thin plate, fillet welding, plug welding, and MIG spot welding. In terms of the weld strength, it is also highly stable.

Welders:

CAUTION: Disconnect the negative battery cable before arc welding.

Welding Methods:

Welding Methods/Repair Tools

Examples of Repair Tools

AIR IMPACT CUTTER

AIRSAW

AIR JIGSAW

HANDSAW

HAND NIBBLER

CHISEL

PLASMA CUTTER

DISC SANDER BELT SANDER

Air type: Electric type:

Cleaning

Sanding tools

Cutting

Cutting tools

Flange tools

Edge preparation

Welding Methods/Repair Tools

Examples of Repair Tools (cont'd)

General Information

Zinc-plated Steel Plate Repair

The zinc-plated steel plate used in some panels of the Acura 3.5RL requires different repair techlniques than ordinary steel plate. Refer to "Body Construction" (see page 4-2) for the location of the zinc-plated panels.

1. Before spot welding the zinc-plated steel plate, remove the paint from both sides of the flange to be welded. Apply sealer to the flange after welding.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

NOTE: Seal the sanded surfaces thoroughly to prevent rust.

2. The electric continuity properties of zinc-plated steel plate is different from ordinary steel plate. When spot welding, increase the current by 10-20%, or increase the resistance welding time. Increase the number of weld spots by 10-20% also.

NOTE: The MIG welding procedures for zinc-plated steel plate are the same as for ordinary steel plate.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety

shoes.

3. Before applying putty or body filler to the zinc-plated steel plate, sand the zinc plating thoroughly to promote adhesion and prevent blistering.

NOTE:

• Use only epoxy-based putties and fillers on zinc-plated steel plate.

• Follow the manufacturer's specification.

4. When performing paint work, apply caulking to the ground wire

mounting position to mask the body.

Avoid puttying as much as possible when repairing a new car. Use alternative methods as much as possible.

• Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the container. Spray paint only in a well ventilated area.

• Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once.

• Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.

• If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with water and get prompt medical attention.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

1 . Prep the repair area.

2. Apply putty. NOTE: Putty can be applied after priming as described in step 4.

3. Sand and clean the puttied area.

4. Coat with primer.

NOTE: Apply to bare sheet metal and puttied area.

5. Sand and clean the whole area.

6. Apply intermediate coat to the whole area to be re-

painted.

Double-action sander, #80 sandpaper.

Epoxy-based putty.

• Mix the putty and hardener according to the manufacturer's directions.

Polyester resin putty. Body filler.

Double-action sander, orbital sander, hand sanding file, #80, #120, # 240 sandpaper, wax and grease remover, shop towels.

Epoxy-based primer and hardener, epoxy thinner.

• Mix and thin the primer according to the manufacturer's directions.

Double-action sander, #300, #400 sandpaper, wax and grease remover, shop towels.

Polyester/urethane resin primer/surfacer or top-coat enamel.

• Mix and thin the primer according to the manufacturer's directions.

Sand the area with a double-action sander and #80 sandpaper.

Clean with wax and grease remover.

Apply in several thin coats if necessary. Try to avoid leaving pinholes in the putty.

• Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for preparation.

Rough-sand the area with a double-action sander and #80 sandpaper, then sand with #120 sandpaper. Featheredge with #240 sandpaper. Clean with wax and grease remover.

Apply 2-4 coats, allowing sufficient flash time between coats.

Force dry at 140-158°F (60-70°C) for at

least 30 minutes.

Sand the repair area by hand with #300, #

400 sandpaper.

Blow off with compressed air. Clean with

wax and grease remover. Apply 2-4 coats, allowing sufficient flash

time between coats.

Force

dry at

140-158°F

(60-70°C)

for at

least 30 minutes.

Spray to a thickness of 30-35 microns

Spray to a thickness of 40-50

microns

Sand the repair area by hand with #400

sandpaper until it's level. Sand the whole

area

repainted

with

#400-600

sandpaper. Clean with wax and grease remover.

Apply 2-4 coats allowing sufficient flash time between coats.

Force

dry at

140-158°F

(60-70°C)

for at

least 30 minutes.

Hand sanding file, double-action

sander, #400, #600 sandpaper, wax

and grease remover, shop towels.

Acrylic urethane resin top coat paint,

hardener, and thinner.

• Mix and thin the paint according to the manufacturer's directions.

7. Sand and clean the whole area to be repainted.

8. Top-coat the whole area to repainted.

General Information

Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams

Door and bumper reinforcement beams used on Honda automobiles are made from a metal equivalent to High Strength Steel.

Should High Strength Steel be heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If High Strength Steel is damaged, as in a automobile accident where the door reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may crack should any attempt be made to straighten them.

For this reason, Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams should never be repaired, they should be replaced if they become damaged.

NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced.

Construction

NOTE: Be sure to use epoxy-based putty and primer surfacer to make any repairs on paint coats or zinc-plated sheet metal (see page 3-3).

Exterior Body Parts

Replacement

Mounting bolts Torque: 6X1.0 mm : 9.8 N-m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 Ibf-ft) 8X1.25 mm : 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 Ibf-ft)

*8X1.25 mm: 28 N-m (2.9 kgf-m, 21 Ibf-ft)

10 X 1.25 mm: 38N-m (3.9 kgf-m, 28 Ibf-ft)

Sealing locations NOTE: Seal the following areas to prevent water leak and rust. Mastic sealer: 3M #08654

Use materials above or equivalents.

NOTE: Adjust the clearance with the doors, refer to the Service Manual for door striker adjustment.

Front Bulkhead

Description

The front bulkhead is joined to the front wheelhouse and front side frame. It forms the base for the headlights and other parts and

maintains the rigidity of the front section of the body. Pay particular attention to twists and parallelism and check mounting of related parts when welding.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Replacement

1 . Remove the related parts.

• Front bumper

• Hood

• Right and left headlights

• Right and left front fenders

• Radiator, condenser

• Hood latch

2. Roughly pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Check the damage to the front wheelhouse and front side frame before removing the front bulkhead.

Use the frame straightener to roughly pull out and repair the damaged bulkhead before removing the bulkhead.

NOTE: Check the fit of the door, taking care not to pull the damaged area out more than necessary.

• Use the horizontal pinch weld clamps and attach the car to the frame straightener at the clamping points securely.

3. Keep the body level. Jack up the body, and place safety stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

NOTE: Refer to the Acura 3.5RL Service Manuals for safety stand location points.

4. Cut and pry off the front bulkhead.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints.

• Use the special spot cutter to drill holes at the spot

weld nuggets on the front wheelhouse and front side frame.

NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down to the front wheelhouse or front side frame themselves.

• Cut off the bulkhead with an air chisel, leaving the

welding flanges intact.

• Level and finish the burrs from the pried off spot

welds with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glass whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

5. Mold the damaged related parts.

• Use a hammer and dolly to mold the damaged areas of the front wheelhouse front and side frame.

• Even out the welding flanges with a hammer and dolly.

• Fill all drilled holes by MIG or gas welding.

Front Bulkhead

Replacement (cont'd)

6. Set the new front bulkhead.

• Grind both sides of the welding section of the bulkhead with a sander to remove the undercoat and expose the steel plate.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Clamp both the right and left sides with the visegrips.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface,

when spot welding.

• Check the front bulkhead position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

7. Measure the front compartment diagonally. Measure the front compartment diagonally with a track-

ing gauge or convex tool as shown to check it for twisting or bending.

8. Tack weld the new front bulkhead.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Spot weld the clamped sections.

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left bulkheads are in line with each other.

9. Temporarily assemble the hood, headlight and front fender, then check the clearances and level differences.

10. Perform the main welding.

• Spot weld the bulkhead as shown.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were holes drilled.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

11. Finish the welds. Use a hammer and dolly to even out the front wheelhouse and front side frame flanges for a close fit with

the surface of the front bulkhead.

12. Apply the undercoat (see section 7).

13. Attach the front fender.

14. Lower the body. NOTE: Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

Torque: 108 N-m (11.0 kgf-m, 79.6 Ibf-ft)

15. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

16. Install the related parts.

17. Inspect, check, and make adjustments.

• Adjust the headlight aim.

• Check that the electrical components light up and operate properly.

• Replenish radiator coolant and inspect for leaks.

Front Wheelhouse/Damper Housing

Description

The front wheelhouse component is constructed as a unit with the front damper housing. Therefore, replacement of the component affects the front wheel alignment. When assembling it, either use a positioning jig or follow dimensions on the frame repair chart for positioning. Weld carefully.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Parts to be removed when removing the front bulkhead

• Parts on passenger side of lower dashboard which are especially flammable

• Electrical accessories in engine compartment and wire harnesses.

NOTE: See the 96 Acura 3.5RL Service Manual, for removal and installation of the engine, front suspension

and brakes.

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area to approximately the original shape.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps at the horizontal pinch weld points.

NOTE: Refer to the 96 Acura 3.5RL Service Manual for safety stand location points.

• Before cutting off the damaged sections, pull them out so that they are restored to the original shape.

• Do not pull out more than necessary.

• Pull out and straighten the damaged area of the lower dashboard, front pillar, and other parts.

• After pulling, check the damper housing position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) and positioning jig (see page 1-7).

NOTE: Check the condition of the door and hinges.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the front side frame and damper housing.

• Drill holes in the center punched areas using a spot cutter.

• Using a chisel, pry off the welded flange.

3. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the wheelhouse

and front side frame with a gas torch, and peel off the

undercoat with a metal spatula.

4. Cut and pry off the front wheelhouse and damper housing.

-1 When replacing the front wheelhouse only.

• Remove the wheelhouse upper panel.

• Remove the MIG weld flange with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or

safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

NOTE: Remove the wheelhouse upper panel carefully so

they can be reused.

Front Wheelhouse/Damper Housing

Replacement (cont'd)

-2 Replace the damper housing with the front wheelhouse.

• Remove the front pillar extension.

• Remove the MIG weld flange with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or

safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Using a chisel, pry off the welded flange form the front pillar and damper housing.

NOTE: Remove the front pillar extension carefully so they

can be reused.

• From the passenger compartment side, drill holes in the spot welded area with a 5 mm (0.2 in).

NOTE: Drill holes completely through the parts since the

replacement damper housing will be welded by MIG

welding.

• Using a spot cutter, drill holes in the spot welded area on the front side frame and dashboard upper side member.

5. Mold the related parts.

• Level and finish the burrs left on the welding surfaces with a sander.

• Fill all drilled holes by MIG or gas welding.

• Use a hammer and dolly to even out the welded areas

of the lower dashboard, front side frame and dashboard upper side member.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the weld-

ing section and expose the steel plate using a disc

sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Clamp to the front side frame with vise-grips and squill vises.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when spot welding.

• Clamp the front bulkhead with vise-grips.

• Measure the front compartment diagonally.

NOTE: Use of a positioning jig is recommended (see page 1-7).

6. Set the new front wheelhouse and damper housing.

• Apply body paint to both sides of the new front wheelhouse and damper housing.

• See Paint Repair section.

• Spot weld several points in the clamped sections, and temporarily attach the front wheelhouse and damper housing.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

7. Check the dimensions, temporarily install the hood, front fender and headlight, and check for differences in level

and clearance.

(cont'd)

Front wheelhouse/Damper housing

Replacement (cont'd)

8. Perform the main welding.

• Weld as much as possible with the jig still mounted.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were

holes drilled.

9. Weld the wheelhouse upper panel and front pillar extension.

• Plug weld the holes areas of the dashboard lower and Damper housing with a MIG welder.

10. Finish the welded area. Use a hammer and dolly to even out the side bulkhead and front side frame flanges for close fit with the surface of the front wheelhouse and damper housing.

11. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the lower dashboard and front side frame, etc.

12. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

13. Apply the undercoat. Undercoat the front floor, etc, and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side

frame, lower dashboard, and upper member, etc (see

section 7).

14. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

15. Inspect, check and make adjustment.

• Measure the front wheel alignment.

• Inspect the brake system.

• Adjust the headlight aim.

Front Side Frame

Description

The front side frame acts as a base for the front suspension and is highly important in maintaining the rigidity of the front section.

Pay careful attention to the position and dimensions of the weld joints and weld carefully.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

NOTE: Replace the front side frame and front side extension as an assembly.

Front Side Frame

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front suspension related parts

• Brake hoses and pipes

• Engine compartment electrical components

• Fittings in passenger compartment, etc.

• Steering gearbox.

2. Remove the sub-frame.

NOTE: With the front bulkhead removed.

3. Roughly pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the horizontal pinch welds.

NOTE: Refer to the 96 Acura 3.5RL Service Manual for safety stand location points.

• Before cutting off the damaged sections, pull them out so that they are restored to the original shape.

• Cutting off the front side frame before roughly

pulling out the damage makes repair of the related

front floor, lower dashboard, and other related parts

difficult.

4. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower

dashboard, front floor and side sill with a gas torch and peel off the undercoat with a metal spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the passenger compartment when heating.

5. Remove the front side frame. NOTE: It's not necessary to separate the front wheelhouse from the front side frame if the wheelhouse/

damper housing is to be replaced also.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the

wheelhouse, damper housing, lower dashboard, front floor and floor frame.

• Using a spot cutter, drill holes in the spot welded

areas.

• Peel off the welding flange using the chisel.

• Remove the burrs from the drilled sections with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the front side frame and front side extension from inside the passenger compartment.

• Drill holes in the spot welded area with a 5 mm (0.2 in) drill.

NOTE: Drill holes completely through the parts since the replacement front side frame and front side extension will be welded by MIG welding.

• Remove the MIG welds of the front side frame-and-lower dashboard with a disc sander.

NOTE: When drilling holes ( , and ) be careful not

to drill down to the inside sill.

Front Side Frame

Replacement (cont'd)

6. Mold the related parts.

• Reshape the front wheelhouse and damper housing lower dashboard-to-front floor joint using a hammer

and dolly.

• Fill all drilled holes by MIG or gas welding.

NOTE: Use of a positioning jig is recommended (see page 1-7).

• Clamp the front bulkhead and front wheelhouse/ damper housing with squill vises and vise-grips.

• Measure the front compartment diagonally.

• Spot weld several points in the clamped sections, and temporarily attach the front side frame.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).

8. Perform the main welding.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were holes drilled.

• Weld as much as possible with the jig still mounted.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Weld the front side frame, wheelhouse, damper housing and bulkhead.

7. Set the new front side frame.

• Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the welding section, and expose the steel plate using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or

grinding.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface

when spot welding.

• Tighten the front side frame against the front floor and side sill using vise-grips or pliers.

• Place a jack under the front side frame end and support it, and measure the positions for temporary attachment.

• and make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes with the front side extension, and plug weld the inside sill, floor frame and side sill extension with a MIG welder.

9. Finish the welds. Use a hammer and dolly to even out the damper housing,

wheelhouse, lower dashboard, front bulkhead and side

sill flanges for a close fit with the surface of the front side

frame.

10. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the lower dash-

board, etc.

11. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

12. Apply the undercoat. Undercoat the front floor, and apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the welding section of the side sill, front side

frame, etc (see section 7).

13. Install the related parts.

Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

14. Inspect, check and adjust.

• Measure the front wheel alignment.

• Inspect the brake system.

• Adjust the headlight aim.

• From the passenger compartment side, plug weld the holed areas of the lower dashboard and front floor with a MIG welder.

Front Side Extension

Description

The front side extension connect the front side frames to the body and are vital to the rigidity of the entire body frame. Pay particular attention when welding the front side extension from beneath the front floor and side sill.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front seat

• Carpet

• Refer to the front side frame (see page 4-13).

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• The front side extension receives impact through the front side frame or side sill. Such impact generally

requires replacement of all these parts.

• Before cutting off the front side extension or side sill,

pull out the damaged area with the frame straightener and correct the related parts such as the front

floor and dashboard. Check the clearance and level

differences of the front doors.

• Jack up the body and place safety stands at the four

designated places of the side sills. If necessary,

place safety stands at the rear of the frame.

3. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the front side outrigger and side frame with a gas torch and peel off the undercoat with a metal spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside

the passenger compartment when heating.

4. Remove the front side extension.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the front side extension from inside the passenger compartment.

• Drill holes is the spot welded areas with a 5 mm (0.2 in) drill.

NOTE: Drill holes through the parts completely since the replacement front side extension will be welded by MIG welding.

• Level off and finish the burrs of the pried off spot welds with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

5. Mold the related parts. Reshape the lower dashboard, front side frame, front

floor, inside sill and side sill inner joint using a hammer

and dolly.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the front side frame, floor frame and inside sill.

• Drill holes using a spot cutter.

NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down to the front side frame, floor frame and inside sill.

Front Side Extension

Replacement (cont'd)

6. Set the new front side extension.

• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the areas to be spot welded with a sander to expose the steel

plate.

• Clamp the weld flanges with the side sill using the

vise-grip pliers. Set the front side extension on the

side frame using a jack.

• Drill 3 mm (0.12 in) holes, and screw 5 mm self-

tapping screws into the drilled holes at the areas where the front side extension does not fit closely.

• Even out the welded flange and damaged area with a hammer and dolly.

7. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• From the passenger compartment side, weld the

holes in the lower dashboard, front floor and floor

frame with a MIG welder.

• Weld the front side frame and front side extension

using MIG welds.

8. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the mating surface of the lower dashboard and front floor.

9. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

10. Apply the undercoat. Undercoat the front floor, etc, and apply anti-rust agent to

the inside of the front side extension and side sill (see

section 7).

• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes with the front side extension, and weld the front side frame, floor frame, side sill extension and inside sill with a MIG welder.

Front Pillar (Outer Panel)

Description

The front pillar is connected to the roof, windshield, the door hinges, and side sills and is a highly important support. Connection of the front pillar determines the position of the windshield and front door. Align the front fender, door, and windshield while

the front pillar is loosely mounted, and check the clearances and level differences.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Front Pillar (Outer Panel)

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts:

• Hood

• Front fender

• Front door

• Windshield

• Front side trim

• Door opening trim

• Side cowl lining

• Dashboard

• Front pillar trim

• Wire harness, etc.

• Steering column

• Steering hanger pipe

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left pillars are parallel with the windshield surface. Check the door for proper opening and closing.

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Pull out the damaged area with the frame straightener before cutting off the front pillar extension and front pillar.

NOTE: Pull out until the pillar is lined up with the

surface of the windshield.

• With the pillar pulled out, pull out and straighten the related lower dashboard and floor section.

• After pulling, check the inner pillar position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

3. Remove the front pillar extension.

• Repair the front pillar lower stiffener if necessary.

4. Cut off the front pillar.

• Use a handsaw to cut the windshield and side sill areas.

NOTE: Be careful not to cut the inner section.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints.

• Drill holes using a spot cutter.

• Chisel off the weld flanges.

• Finish the burrs at the drilled areas with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

5. Mold the related parts. Fill any holes by MIG or gas welding, and even out with a hammer and dolly.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

6. Set the new front pillar lower stiffener and repair part.

• Align the repair part with the top cut section, then cut it with a handsaw.

NOTE: Cut the side sill joint with a handsaw leaving an overlap of 30 mm (1.2 in).

• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the areas to be spot welded with a sander to expose the steel

plate.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface

when spot welding.

• Clamp the new front pillar lower stiffener and repair part.

• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).

• Temporarally install the door, and check the door hinge mounting position.

• Remove the repair part and MIG weld the front pillar

lower stiffener.

7. Tack weld the clamped sections.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

8. Temporarily mount the door and front fender.

• Remove the vise-grips, then mount the door.

• Check the clearance and level differences of the door and fender.

9. Perform main welding.

• Weld the front pillar and side sill outer joints with a MIG welder.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were holes drilled.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes with the repair part, and weld the lower stiffener, upper

stiffener and dashboard upper side member with a MIG welder.

Front Pillar (Outer Panel)

Replacement (cont'd)

• Weld the front pillar extension.

10. Finish the welding areas.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Smooth the flanged section of the door opening with a hammer and dolly.

11. Apply the sealer (see section 5).

12. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled

or swallowed. Read the paint label before

opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

13. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the front pillar, front pillar extension and side sill (see section 7).

14. Install the related parts.

• Install in the reverse order of removal.

• Check the door for proper installation and level difference from the fenders.

15. Clean and check.

• After installing the dashboard, check the lights and

gauges for proper operation.

• Clean the passenger compartment and check for water leaks.

Side Sill (Outer Panel)

Description

The side sill should, depending on the degree of damage, be repaired as much as possible rather than replaced. (Repair by pulling out with slide hammer with pin and washer welded on.)

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Side Sill (Outer Panel)

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front and rear doors

(remove according to part damaged)

• Side and center pillar trim

• Door opening trim

• Carpet

• Door switch

• Seat belt

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. Damage may extend to the inner pillar, the inside sill and

floor. Determine the extent of the damage first, so that the frame can be pulled out properly.

3. Cut and pry off the side sill.

• Check the damage on the outer side sill, then cut the

repair outer side sill so it will overlap by 30 mm (1.2 in) in the front and back.

NOTE: Be careful not to cut the inside sill. This could result in extensive repair.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the welded flange.

• Drill holes using the spot cutter.

• Pry off the welded flange with a chisel.

NOTE: Be careful not to let the holes penetrate down to

the inner section.

NOTE: Do not cut or damage the upper stiffener and

center pillar separator.

• If the damage involves part of the center pillar and rear wheel arch, cut them as shown with a handsaw.

• Cut the side sill with a chisel leaving the weld flanges intact.

• Replace the lower stiffener if necessary.

5. Set the new lower stiffener and repair part.

• Sand off the undercoat from both sides of the welded flange on the lower stiffener and repair part.

• Clamp the new lower stiffener and repair part.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when spot welding.

• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).

• Temporarily install the door, and check the door hinge mounting position.

• Remove the repair part and MIG weld the lower stiffener.

4. Mold the related parts.

• Fill any holed areas by MIG or gas welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

• Level and finish burrs at welded areas with a disc sander, then even them out with a hammer and

dolly.

• Sand off the undercoat from both sides of the flange to be welded.

NOTE: Check the damage of the honeycomb floors and if necessary replace it (see page 4-46).

6. Tack weld the repair part.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Remove the vise-grips and install the fender and doors. Check for differences in level and clearance.

Side Sill (Outer Panel)

Replacement (cont'd)

7. Perform main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

• Weld the side sill and rear side outer joints with a MIG welder.

• Spot weld the side sill flanges.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were

holes drilled.

• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes with the repair part, and weld the center pillar stiffener and wheel arch extension with a MIG welder.

• Level the weld beads at the front and rear with a disc sander. Hammer down the projections, then fill with solder or putty to finish.

8. Apply the sealer. Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the floor and inside sill (see section 5).

9. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before

opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate

clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

10. Apply the undercoat. Undercoat the front floor, and apply an anti-rust agent

to the inside of the side sill and center pillar (see section

7).

11. Install the related parts.

• Install in the reverse order of removal.

• Check the door for proper installation and level

differences from the fenders.

12. Clean and check.

Clean the passenger compartment and check for water leaks.

Roof Panel

Description

Deformation of the roof panel is highly noticable in terms of the vehicle's outer appearance.

Before replacing the roof rail, make sure that the body is horizontal. Before welding the roof panel, adjust the roof rail flanges so that they contact the roof panel.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

NOTE: When replacing the outer panel, drill holes at the area joined to the roof side rail and rear inner panel as

shown.

Roof Panel

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Windshield

Rear window Sunvisor Ceiling lights Headliner

Moonroof frame (For some types)

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area to approxi-

mately the original shape.

NOTE: Check the inner front pillar and the inner center pillar for position and damage. Cut the roof panel and pull out the pillars if necessary.

• Pull out the damaged area with the frame straightener before removing the roof panel.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the horizontal pinch welds.

3. Keep the body level. NOTE: Refer to the 96 Acura 3.5RL Service Manual for

safety stand location points. Jack-up the body at the front and back. Place safety stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left pillars are parallel with the windshield surface. Check the door for proper opening and closing.

4. Cut off the shaded areas of the roof panel.

• Cut the roof rail weld flange with a handsaw at the four corners.

• Using a chisel, pry off the roof panel along the bold lines as shown.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints of the

roof gutter welded flange.

• Drill holes using the spot cutter.

• Using a chisel, pry off the welded flange.

• Weld the holed areas with a MIG or gas welder.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

• Level and finish burrs on the welded flanges with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Even out the roof side rail welded flange with a hammer and dolly for a close fit with the roof panel welded flange.

• Check the width of the groove for the roof moldings on both sides.

• Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when spot welding.

5. Apply paint to the underside of the new roof panel.

• See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate

clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

6. Set the new roof panel.

• Sand off the undercoat from both sides of the flange

sections to be spot welded to expose the steel plate.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Clamp the roof panel with vise-grips. NOTE:

• Check that the flange surfaces fit closely. Be careful not to twist or deform the roof panel.

• Check the body dimension (see section 6).

7. Tack weld the new roof panel.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Spot weld the clamped sections to temporarily install

the roof panel.

• Set the windshield and rear window, and check the

roof panel for proper installation.

• Install the roof molding and check the width of the

groove.

8. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Spot weld the roof rails at the front and rear.

• Spot weld the roof arch.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were holes drilled.

(cont'd)

Roof Panel

Replacement (cont'd)

• Smooth the spot weld areas under the windshield and rear window with a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: After welding the pillars, grind and finish the

welded areas flat and blend them into the roof panel.

9. Apply and level the sealer to the welded areas.

10. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

11. Apply an anti-rust agent to the inside of the roof side rail.

12. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order of removal.

13. Check and clean.

• Check the windshield and rear window for water leaks.

• Make sure the moonroof operates smoothly.

• Clean the passenger compartment thoroughly.

• Weld the roof rail from the inside by MIG welding as shown.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

Rear Side Outer Panel

Description

The rear side outer panel is a conspicuous part of the vehicle. It is especially important for body line continuing from the door. Therefore, pay particular attention to it when conducting work. This part also is next to the trunk lid, door and rear window and other parts and must be aligned with them.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Rear Side Outer Panel

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Rear bumper

• Rear window

• Taillight

• Rear pillar trim panel

• Trunk side panel

• Rear seat

• Rear seat belt

• Fuel fill pipe (left side only)

Do not smoke while working near the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an approved container.

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. NOTE: Carefully check the inner pillar and trunk gutter

for position and damage. Pull out the inner panel by cutting the outer if necessary.

• Jack-up the body and place safety stands at the four designated support points.

• Pull out the damaged rear side outer panel with the frame straightener, then pull out and straighten the center pillar inner panel and rear wheelhouse.

NOTE: Be careful not to pull out more than necessary.

• After pulling, check the inner pillar and trunk gutter

position using the body dimensional drawings (see

section 6).

3. Cut and pry off the rear side outer panel.

• Cut at the rear pillar and side sill with a handsaw.

• Cut the panel from the body with a chisel leaving the weld flange at the inner panel intact.

NOTE: Do not cut or damage the inner panel and rear damper stiffener.

• Cut at the side sill or wheel arch according to the extent of the damage.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the remaining flange.

• Drill out the spot welds with the spot cutter.

• Pry off the welded flange sections using a chisel.

Do not smoke while working near

the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel

system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an approved container.

NOTE: Do not cut or damage the rear damper stiffener

and rear pillar separator.

4. Mold the inner panel and related parts.

• Fill and holes drilled by MIG or gas welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Level and finish burrs, etc. with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the weld flange with a sander to expose the steel plate.

6. Set the repair part.

• Install the outer panel and clamp it with vise-grips.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when

spot welding.

5. Cut the replacement part.

• Cut so that the repair part overlaps the side sill by 30

(1.2 in).

• Apply body paint to the back of the repair part.

• See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).

7. Tack weld the repair part.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Temporarily spot weld the panel at the clamped positions.

8. Remove the vise-grips and check the alignment of the door and trunk lid.

NOTE:

• Check for flushness of the front fender, door, and the rear fender and make sure the body lines flow

smoothly.

• Check the rear window openings. (cont'd)

Rear Side Outer Panel

Replacement (cont'd)

9. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

• Weld the outer panel at the rear pillar and side sill with a MIG welder.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were holes drilled.

• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) hole in the MIG weld hole with the repair part, and the wheel arch extension with a MIG

welder.

10. Finish the welded areas.

• Level the MIG welded areas with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Even out high areas with a hammer. Be careful not to deform them.

• Even out the spot welded flange areas with a ham-

mer and dolly.

• Fill in deformations and level differences of the

welded areas with solder or putty, then finish.

11. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the fuel fill section, trunk lid opening

joint and around the taillight area of the rear panel.

12. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before

opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

13. Apply the undercoat. Apply undercoat to the wheelhouse and apply anti-rust

agent to the inside of the outer panel (see section 7).

14. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

15. Inspect, check, and clean.

• Adjust the clearance with the door and trunk lid, then adjust the level differences and fit. Check operation.

• Test for leaks in the trunk and passenger compartments.

• Clean the trunk floor.

Rear Panel

Description

The rear panel is joined to the rear outer panel and rear floor, and maintains the rigidity of both sides of the rear body. It must

be welded carefully.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Rear Panel

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Rear bumper

• Rear bumper upper beam

• Trunk lid lock and its attachments

• Other related parts

• Rear and side trim panels

• Taillights

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Pull out the related rear side inner panel, rear floor, rear frame and other damaged parts with the frame straightener.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and the side sill side flanges.

3. Cut and pry off the rear panel.

• Cut along the bold line shown with a gas cutter or an air chisel and remove the rear panel.

• Center punch around the spot weld imprints with the rear side outer panel and rear floor.

• Drill holes using the spot cutter.

NOTE: Be careful not to let holes penetrate through to the rear floor.

• Remove weld flange with a chisel.

4. Mold the related parts.

• Repair the rear floor pocket if necessary (see page

4-40).

• Repair all cracks, holes or other defects by MIG or gas welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

5. Set the new rear panel.

• Paint the inside of the panel with the body color.

• See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled

or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

• Remove the undercoat from the welding section of the panel and expose the steel plate using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Install the new rear panel and clamp it with visegrips.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when

spot welding.

• Check the rear panel position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

6. Tack weld the rear panel.

• Weld the clamped sections for temporary installa-

tion.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

7. Open and close the trunk lid to check for proper installation.

NOTE: Make sure the trunk lid or locks securely.

Position the rear panel in its correct position with the rear bumper and taillight installed.

8. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were

holes drilled.

9. Finish the welding areas.

• Level the welded areas with a disc sander, then even out high areas with a hammer. Be careful not to deform them.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Even out the spot welded flange area with a hammer

and dolly.

10. Apply the sealer (see section 5).

• Apply sealer to the rear side outer joint and around the taillight areas of the rear panel.

• Apply sealer to the rear panel and rear floor joint.

11. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

12. Apply anti-rust agent (see section 7).

• Apply agent to the outer panel, rear panel and rear floor joint.

• Apply agent to the inside of the jack-up stiffener.

13. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

14. Inspect, check, and clean.

• Adjust the clearance with the trunk lid, then adjust the level difference and fit. Check operation.

• Test for leaks in the trunk compartment.

• Clean the trunk floor.

Rear Floor/Rear Floor Cross-member

Description

The rear floor and rear floor cross-member are the base of the rear body and it is critical for the rigidity of the rear body. During

replacement, refer to the body dimension chart or body correction chart and determine the position to set the rear floor, and rear floor cross-member, properly. Be sure that the rear floor is not bent or deformed. Weld securely following the welder manufacturer's instructions to maintain the rigidity of the body.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Rear seat

• Trim and other luggage compartment fittings

• Left and right rear suspension assembly

• Parking brake parts

• Muffler

• Wire harness

• Other parts as necessary

• Fuel tank and fuel pipes

Do not smoke while working near

the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel

system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an approved container.

2. Remove the rear suspension cross beam.

• Impact damage to the rear floor spreads to related parts such as the rear frame, rear floor cross-member

and rear wheelhouse.

• Therefore, pull out the damaged areas with the frame straightener and measure in reference to body dimensional drawing.

NOTE: Use of a positioning jig is recommended (see page 1-7).

4. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower rear

floor with a gas torch and peel off the undercoat with a

metal spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the trunk compartment and rear wheelhouse insulator while heating.

5. Cut and pry off the rear panel (see page 4-38). (cont'd)

3. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Check whether the damage extended to the rear floor cross-member, rear wheelhouse and the passenger compartment, and pull out the damaged parts using the frame corrector.

Rear Floor/Rear Floor Cross-member

Replacement (cont'd)

6. Cut and pry off the rear floor.

• Cut off the rear floor with a gas cutter or air chisel.

• Leave the spot welded flanges of the rear frame and rear floor cross-member shown by the bold line in the figure below.

7. Check the damaged and position of the rear floor crossmember.

NOTE: If necessary, replace the rear floor cross-member.

NOTE: Cut the rear floor 15 mm (0.6 in) from the welded

flange of the rear floor cross-member.

• Strike a center punch around the spot weld imprints on the cross-member from inside the trunk compartment.

• Drill 5 mm (0.2 in) holes through the nuggets.

• Keep the holes to a minimum since they will be used as weld holes for MIG plug welding of the new part.

• Remove the rear floor pockets.

8. Mold the related parts.

• Remove the burrs from the spot weld or MIG weld using a sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or

grinding.

• Fill any holes made in the spot welded areas of the

flange by MIG or gas welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

9. Keep the body level. Jack-up the body at the front and back. Place safety stands at the four designated places of the side sill.

10. Check the position of the rear frames using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) and the position-

ing

jig.

11. Set the new rear floor cross-member.

• Sand off undercoat from both sides of the areas to be welded to expose the steel plate.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or

grinding.

• Set the new rear floor cross-member in the original position properly and place a jack under the rear floor cross-member for support.

• Refer to the set position body dimensional drawings (see section 6) for proper positioning of the rear floor cross-member.

• Temporarily weld the mating surfaces with the rear frame.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

14. Remove the new rear floor and floor pockets.

13. Clamp the new rear floor and floor pockets, and recheck the position of the rear frames and rear floor cross-

member.

• Check the fuel tank strap positions.

12. Cut the new rear floor to align it with the body.

NOTE: Cut the new part so it overlaps the body side floor by approximately 40 mm (1.6 in).

• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the areas to be welded with a sander to expose the steel plate.

Rear Floor/Rear Floor Cross-member

Replacement (cont'd)

15. Main weld the new rear floor cross-member.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• MIG/plug weld the rear floor cross member from the trunk compartment.

• Temporarily weld the mating surfaces with the rear floor and floor pockets.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

• Check the rear panel position.

18. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Spot welding:

Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were

holes drilled.

MIG welding:

• Drill the holes for welding the repair part.

• Check the rear frame position and weld the repair part to the rear frames.

16. Finish the welding area.

• Roughly grind the welds in the trunk compartment with a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing

allowance this time.

NOTE: Take care not to grind excessively.

17. Set the new rear floor and floor pockets.

NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when spot welding.

• Weld the new floor pockets.

22. Apply the undercoat. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the rear floor crossmember, jack-up stiffener and jointed areas of the rear floor (see section 7).

23. Weld the rear panel and install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

24. Inspect and clean.

• Measure the rear wheel alignment.

• Clean the inside of the trunk compartment.

• Weld the rear panel (see page 4-37).

19. Finish the welded area. Even out the welded area with a hammer and dolly, and fit the flange surfaces closely together.

20. Apply the sealer.

Apply sealer at the overlapped area of the rear floor, and the welded surfaces of the rear wheelhouse and rear end

inner panel. Seal gaps completely (see section 5).

21. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before

opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

Honeycomb Floors

Description

NOTE: What is known as "honeycomb" construction is employed for the front floor. Properly designed and applied, it plays an important role in maintaining the structural rigidity of that section of the car's floor. The honeycomb floor is installed with an epoxy resin adhesive. Care must be exercised when installing a new honeycomb floor as seepage of water into the honeycomb construction will adversely affect its performance.

Replacement

3. Flattening of melt-sheet.

• Heat the surface of the melt-sheet with a torch or heat gun until it becomes soft and pliable.

• Finish the surface smooth and flat with a steel spat-

ula.

NOTE: In order to take full advantage of the honeycomb

floor, its face must contact the base fully.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the passenger compartment when heating.

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front and rear seats.

• Carpet, others

2. Removal of honeycomb floors.

• Scrape off the dust sealer all the way around the floor.

• Separate the floor from the body by using a pair of

pliers.

4. Application of adhesive.

• Apply adhesive all over the melt-sheet.

NOTE:Use epoxy resin adhesive designed to harden quickly at ambient temperature. Follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions.

6. Application of dust sealant.

• Apply dust sealer all the way around the floors.

NOTE: It is essential to make the floor completely impervious to water as seepage into honeycomb construction will adversely affect its performance. Use sufficient dust

sealant to seal the floor.

• Using a bristle brush or spatula, spread the dust sealant all over the surface until it becomes smooth and flat.

• Check that the dust sealant is applied to the seat

brackets thoroughly.

5. Installation of new honeycomb floors.

• Install the new honeycomb floors.

• Clamp the floor in place using a clamp at the front and two clamps at the rear as shown.

NOTE: Place weights on the floor for 30-60 minutes

until the adhesive hardens.

7. Apply the paint (body color).

• See Paint Repair Manual.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

8. Install the related parts.

9. Check and clean. Check the electrical parts for proper operation.

Cross Section of Body and Sealants

NOTE: Seal the following areas to prevent air leaks, water leaks and rust.

: Sealing locations

Spot Sealer : 3M #08892 (Internal)

: 3M #08893 (External)

Use materials above or equivalents.

(cont'd)

Front Pillar Inner Panel and Dashboard Lower

Front Floor and Rear Floor

Cross Section of Body and Sealants

(cont'd)

Under Floor / Frame

(cont'd)

Cross Section of Body and Sealants

(cont'd)

Body Dimensional Drawings

Upper Body Measuring Dimensions

Unit: mm (in)

NOTE: Measuring dimensions show the distance between the forward or upper edge of positioning bosses and/or holes shown in the detail sketches. Measuring point (Black dots)

Unit: mm (in)

Body Dimensional Drawings

Under Body Measuring Dimensions

Opening Repair Chart

Body Dimensional Drawings

Frame Repair Chart (Top View)

POINT k

Body Dimensional Drawing

Frame Repair Chart (Side View)

SECTION EE

Rust-preventive Treatments

General

Corrosion starts immediately after the steel base contacts the atmosphere. The condition is aggravated by sea wind, road salt, rain, snow and industrial fallout. There are many ways to protect automobiles against corrosion. Primers, primer surfacers and paints are applied by electrodeposition or spray to protect the car body.

Anti-rust Agents and Spray Guns

Use the following anti-rust agents or equivalents when making a body repair.

ANTI-RUST agents contain substances that are harmful if you breathe or swallow them, or get them on your

skin. Wear coveralls, gloves, eye protection, and an approved respirator while using such agents.

Anti-rust agents:

Spray guns:

Use the correct gun for the agent being used.

• Use of a pressure type spray gun is recommended when work involves a considerable number of cars.

Protectors: Wear gloves, mask and suitable eye protection. Use light oil and a rag to clean up spilled anti-rust agents.

Precautions:

1. Before applying an anti-rust agent, thoroughly clean the areas to be coated with a steam cleaner, etc., and let dry.

NOTE: Waxoyl may be applied to wet surface.

2. Spray an anti-rust agent sufficiently until the excess amount oozes out when filling, the doors, side sills, etc. Wipe the excess agent with a clean rag dampened with light oil.

3. Do not spray an anti-rust agent to the brake hoses, brake wheel cylinders, brake drums, exhaust muffler and its related parts, emission control devices in the engine compartment, ball joint covers, plastic fuel strainer, etc.

Wipe up spilled agent at once.

4. Heat an anti-rust agent to room temperature 97.7°F (36.5°C) by submerging the container in hot water when outside temperature is below 50°F (10°C).

5. Ventilate when spraying an anti-rust agent since it contains a small amount of organic solvent. Keep sparks, flames and cigarettes away. Clean the spray gun after spraying with anti-rust agent.

CAUTION: Any remaining agent will harden in the passages of the spray gun, making it unserviceable.

Diagram

NOTE:

• Apply the designated thickness over surfaces including gaps and edges.

• Avoid spraying agents on following parts: Window glass, lights, grille, exhaust parts, tires, bumper and

lower skirt.

• Wipe up spilled agents at once from rubber and plastic parts.

Anti-rust Agents:

• Use RUSTOP, DEOX #100, WAXOYL or equivalents for protecting inner surfaces.

• Use NOX-RUST 409-20S, SOLTON 1000S or equivalents for protecting outer surfaces.

NOTE: Apply the agent to the shaded areas only. Do not apply it to the exhaust system and heated oxygen sensors.

Rust-preventive Treatments

Areas to be Covered by Anti-rust Agents

Hood, Underside

• Coat the entire panel and seams all the way around.

• Spray sufficient anti-rust agent to the front area and each corner.

• Apply rust-preventive agent or grease to the hood hinges.

• Also coat the bulkhead upper frame and hood frame with anti-rust agent.

Nozzles used: A and B

Front Bulkhead Area

• With the hood opened, coat the joints of the bulkhead, wheelhouse and side frame and around the back of the headlight assembly.

• Coat the inside of the front lower-cross member.

Nozzle used: B

Dashboard Upper/Windshield Lower

• Remove the Dashboard upper side cover and center reinforcement.

• Coat the windshield lower and dashboard upper water drain with anti-rust agent at front, right and left.

• Spray anti-rust agent completely over the rear of the dashboard upper (windshield side).

Nozzles used: A and B

Front Fender, Underside

• Remove the washer tank.

• Apply anti-rust agent to the end of the fender, wheelhouse, and side sill installation.

NOTE:

• Apply a coat of agent to the front door side, wheel arch

end.

• If the fender is to be removed, care take to avoid damaging the paint finish. Apply agent to the entire surface of the back of the fender.

• Apply agent to the front fender filling pillar.

Nozzles used: B and C

Outside Panel (Front Pillar and Center Pillar), Inside

• Remove the door harness grommet and insert the nozzle facing down.

NOTE: Make sure that the nozzle is not interfering with the

door hinge bracket. Spray thoroughly.

• Coat the door checker bracket.

Nozzles used: A and B

Wheelhouse Upper Panel and Front Pillar Extension, Inside

• Remove the front fender.

• Remove the air scoop grille in the dashboard upper and coat the inside of the wheelhouse upper member with anti-rust agent.

Nozzles used: A and B

Rust-preventive Treatments

Areas to be Covered by Anti-rust Agents (cont'd)

Doors, Inside

• Apply agent to the joint between the door stiffener and door skin through the water drain hole at the bottom of the door.

• If necessary, remove the door side molding and weatherstrip, then spray the agent through the hole.

NOTE: When a suction type spray gun is used, remove the door trim panel.

Nozzles used: A and B

Rear Side Outer Panel, Inside

• Remove the door lock striker, taillight and grommets, then spray agent through the hole.

• To apply agent to the inside of the rear wheelhouse, remove rear trim panel and trunk side trim panel.

NOTE: Make sure that all the surfaces are coated with antirust agent since the areas to be covered are relatively extensive.

Nozzle used: A

Trunk Lid Inside

• Coat the trunk lid skin, and frame seams all the way around.

• On the trunk lid, apply the agent to the inside of the reinforcement frame.

Nozzles used: A and B

Front Side Frame, Inside

• Remove the grommets from inside the front compartment and coat the inside of the front side frame.

• Coat the battery mount bracket base.

Nozzles used: A and B

• Coat the inside of the front side extension.

Rear Panel, Inside and Outside/Rear Floor End

• Apply the agent to the gap between the rear panel and rear floor.

• Apply the agent to the inside of the rear panel upper and center frame.

• Undercoat may be used on those areas of the rear panel that are concealed from view when parts are installed.

• Apply the agent to the inside of the jack-up stiffener.

Rust-preventive Treatments

Areas to be Covered by Anti-rust Agents (cont'd)

Front Wheelhouse

• Spray agent on the wheelhouse, front fender stay, upper member and damper bracket as shown.

• Undercoat the wheelhouse where anti-rust agent or undercoat has not yet been applied.

NOTE:

• Coat the damper housing extension, particularly the upper face.

• Undercoat the inner fender mounting area of the wheelhouse and upper face of the inner fender

Nozzles used: A and C

Side Sill, Inside

• Remove the rear grommet and side sill panel to spray agent.

• Insert the nozzle all the way through the grommet holes

and spray. Move the nozzle right and left, and up and down while

pulling it back out of the grommet hole.

NOTE: Make sure that the nozzle is not interfering with the

side sill bulkheads as shown.

NOTE: Spray agent until it drips from the drain hole.

Nozzles used: A and B

Rear Wheelhouse

• Coat the gaps between the inner and outer wheelhouses, including the damper base.

• Apply agent to the edge of the rear side frame, side sill and rear floor.

• Undercoat the wheelhouse where undercoat or anti-rust agent has not yet been applied.

Nozzles used: B and C

Under-Floor Member/Floor Frame, Inside

• To spray agent to the inside of the under-floor member, insert the nozzle in the holes in the members.

• Also coat the under-floor, side sill, and front and rear wheelhouses at the ends.

Nozzle used: A

Suspension

NOTE:Do not apply to the brake disc and brake caliper.

Coat the outside (and inside if necessary)

• Front Beam • Rear Cross Beam

• Rear Beam • Lower Arm

• Beam Bracket • Radius Rod

• Beam Bridge • Stabilizer

• Damper • Brake Pipe

• Upper Arm

• Steering Knuckle

Under-Floor

• Apply the agent to the shaded areas only. Do not apply it to the exhaust system and heated oxygen sensors.

• Coat the bottom of the fuel tank.

Nozzle used: C

Rust-preventive Treatments

Undercoating Diagram

NOTE:

• Coating thickness: 0.5 mm (0.02 in) MIN.

• Follow the above instructions for paint repair or refinishing.

• Avoid coating on the front and rear suspensions,

and exhaust system mount area.

• Items marked with an asterisk (*) on the important control areas. Coating thickness 1 mm (0.04 in).

Unit: mm (in)

indicates PVC coating areas.

Coating portion

Coating area

Dashboard lower

Lower section from 250mm(9.84 in) and entire wheelhouse side.

Entire.

Front floor Rear floor Whole floor except fuel tank mounting

area.

Except inner fender mounting area and damper housing.

Front wheelhouse

Rear wheelhouse

Rear wheelarch

Outer panel

Jack-up bracket

Whole wheelhouse.

Whole wheelhouse. Between rear wheelhouse and rear

panel.

Bracket flange.

Color Chart Painting Specifications

NOTE:

• Apply NH-86 black (Gloss 40) to the visible surfaces of area, front and rear-wheelhouses after installing

equipment(except cars painted with NH-592P, YR511P, G-79P and RP-25P

• With body colors are NH-585P, G-83P and YR-508M,

apply NH-86 black (Gloss 40) to the area, front and

rear wheelhouses.

Paint

General

The 4-coat • 4-bake (4C•4B) paint finish gives the Acura 3.5RL a deep gloss and stunning finish, this manual provides information on

paint defect repair and refinishing.Throughout, the objective has been to explain in a simple yet comprehensive manner the basic items you should know about paint repairs. Select the correct material for the defect and repaint or refinish in the correct manner as described in this manual.

• Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the container. Spray paint only in a well ventilated area.

• Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once.

• Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.

• If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with water and get prompt medical attention.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

Basic Rules in Repairing a 4C•4B paint finish

To repair paint damage, always use the 2-part acrylic urethane paints designated; polish and bake each of the four coats,

as in production, to maintain the original film thickness, and to assure the same quality as the original finish.

Outline of Factory Painting Process:

Features in Each Work Process

1. Pretreatment and Electrodeposition

In the pretreatment process, the entire body is degreased, cleaned, and coated with zinc phosphate by dipping after being. After

the body has been cleaned with pure water, it is placed in an electrolytic bath of soluble primer (Cationic Electrodeposition). This

produces a thorough corrosion inhibiting coating on the inner surfaces and corners of the body, pillars, sills panel joints. Chipping primer is then applied to the most susceptible area (see page 8-14)

2. intermediate coat 1

The intermediate coat 1 is applied to the prepared surface in for further protection against damages.

3. Intermediate coat 2

The intermediate coat is matched to the color of the top coat.

4. Top coat

Enamel paint and either polyester or acrylic resin paint is used in the top coat for higher solidity, smoothness, brightness, and weather resistance.

Sectional View of Paint Coats:

Paint

Intermediate Coat Colors

The intermediate coat will determine the color and quality of the paint finish (smoothness, gloss, brightness and thickness). Be sure

to follow mixing instructions explicitly and measure the paint accurately.

Combination Table:

P: Pearl M : Metallic

N8.0 : White N5.0 : Dark gray-1 N2.0 : Dark gray-2

Paint Refinishing

Paint damage can appear in any form. Before making a repair, check the damaged area carefully, and determine the procedure best

suited to the type. The following relates paint refinishing methods to various types of paint damage of damage or defects.

Defects and Refinishing Processes

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed.

Read the paint label before opening the paint contain-

er.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep

it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

A. Damage or defects that have gone through to the

metal surface

Rusting or deformation: Steps:

Featheredge the damaged area.

Prepare the metal surface.

Apply a chemical coating to metal surface.

Metal conditioner, Precoat, A.C.P treatment

Apply an undercoat (primer surfacer) Apply intermediate coat 1 (surfacer and primer

surfacer)

Apply an intermediate coat 2 (color matched to top

enamel paint). NH-585P:lntermediate coat 2

(Use exclusive color paint)

Apply top coat (body color paint).

Metallic color: Metallic enamel paint + Clear top coat Pearl color: Pearl enamel paint + Clear top coat NH-592P/G-79P: Clear top coat (Use scratch resistant clear coat)

B. Damage or defects up to undercoat or intermediate

coat 1

External damage or blisters: (1) Perform Steps through under Item A.

NH-585P: Damage or defects up to intermediate coat 2 External damage

(1) Perform steps through under Item A.

C. Damage or defects that have not gone through to

intermediate coats (only in top coat)

Shallow scratches or score marks:

(1) If damage has gone through to the metallic paint and

pearl paint spray metallic enamel and pearl enamel,

then apply top coat wet on wet.

(2) If damage has not reached the metallic and pearl

color paints, but remained in the clear top coat polish the damaged surface or spray only the clear top coat.

NOTE: Try to repair by polishing as much as possible if the damage has not reached the metallic and pearl color paints.

D. Replacement of Parts

-1 Welded parts

Rear side outer panel, etc.

(1) Perform Step through if the damaged area is

covered with filler or welded with reinforcement plate.

(2) Perform steps and for undercoats except those

on joints (Intermediate coat 1 for replacement parts).

(3) On inner panels, apply paint to where the undercoat is

burned by heat of welding. Follow this with a rust

preventive treatment (see section 7).

-2 Single Parts

Painting of outer and inner hood, door, trunk, lid, etc. Perform Steps and under Item A.

• Painting of inside of the front fender. Only enamel top coat paint may be used:

Metallic enamel or Pearl enamel.

• After spraying enamel paint, perform rust preventive treatment (apply inner or outer rust preventive agent).

Paint

Refinishing Processes

Indicates steps which may be required according to the degree of damage)

NOTE:

Refinishing Procedures

1. Featheredging (polishing damaged areas)

- 1 .Damage to metal surface

• Sand the damaged area flat and smooth with a double action sander and #60 or #80 disc paper.

• Sand the boundary between the metal surface and undercoat with a double action sander and #180 or

#280 disc paper. Try to sand a larger area than the

damage.

NOTE:

• Make sure there is no height difference between the metal surface and undercoat.

• If a double action sander is not available, use a rubber block and wrap sandpaper around it to sand the surface.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or

safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

-2. Damage to Undercoat

Intermediate coat Top coat

Paint coat on replacement parts

Sand the damaged surface flat and smooth with a double action sander and #280 or #320 paper.

NOTE:

• If a double action sander is not available, use a rubber pad and wet or dry sand the surface with #280, #320,

#400 or #600 sandpaper.

• After sanding, check that the surface is flat and smooth.

• Perform the operations under Item 1-1 for the areas where parts are welded to the body.

2. Preparation of metal surface.

Remove all corrosion from the damaged area using a #180 or #280 paper.

3. Air Blowing/Degreasing

• Air blow the sanded area, then degrease with a wax

and grease remover (for USA usage-Dupont 38125

Enamel Reducer).

• Use the following materials:

• Spies Hecker Sillicon Remover (Herberts)

• Standox Silicon Remover (Herberts)

• Do not use high air pressure: Use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30psi) air nozzle.

• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye injury.

4. Treatment of metal surface

• Brush or spray a solution of chrome phosphate or

washer primer on the exposed metal surface.

• Use the following materials to treat the metal surface:

• Metal conditioner (kamsai Paint) (for USA usage-

Dupont 2415 Kwik-Prep TM)

• ACP agent (Nippon Paint)

• Precoat (Isam Paint) (for USA usage-Dupont 6155/ 6165 Vari Prim Self-Etching Primer TM)

• Spies Hecker Priomat 1: 1 wash primer 3688 (Herberts)

• Standox Etching Adhesion Primer (Herberts)

NOTE:

• Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

• Treat the metal surface, as much as possible, to provide a better bonding surface for the subsequent paint.

5. Application of Filler Drying Sanding

• Small cracks or pinholes in the sheet metal should be repaired with a filler and sanded flat and smooth.

NOTE:

• Mix the putty with the hardener in the correct ratio.

• Follow the filler manufacturer's instructions.

Paint

Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)

Body parts being dried with an

industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury. Do not touch parts being dried.

• Allow the filler to air dry for about 5-6 minutes, then force dry with an infrared lamp.

NOTE: Keep the lamp 40-50 cm (16-20 in) from the

filler while drying.

• Stop drying the filler if a white mark appears when

the surface is scratched with your nail. Wet or dry sand the surface flat and smooth with a #280 or #320 paper.

6. Air Blowing/Degreasing

• Air blow the surface to be repaired, then degrease with a wax and grease remover (for USA usage-

Dupont 38125 Enamel Reducer).

• Use the following materials:

• Spies Hecker Silicon Remover (Herberts)

• Standox silicon Remover (Herberts)

NOTE: Also clean and degrease surfaces where masking tape will be attached.

7. Masking

Mask the areas surrounding the damage to prevent overspray from the primer.

8. Application and Drying of Primer/Drying

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

• Spray the primer over the filler and surface (use epoxy or urethane 2-part primer).

Spray : 2-3 coats.

• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cnv, 30 psi) air nozzle.

• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye injury.

• Air blow all the surfaces, then degrease with wax and grease remover (for USA usage-DuPont 38125

Enamel Reducer).

• Use the following materials:

• Spies Hecker Silicon Remover (Herberts)

• Standox silicon Remover (Herberts)

NOTE: Also degrease the surfaces where masking

tape will be attached.

11. Masking

Mask the undamaged areas surrounding the damage to prevent overspray from primer surfacer (undercoat).

NOTE:- Use masking tape and paper to mask the body. A vinyl cover may also be used to effectively mask the body.

• Use the following materials:

• 615S Primer Surfacer (DuPont)

• Primer Surfacer EP (Akzo)

• NPS735 Urethane Primer Surfacer (R-M)

• Spies Hecker Permacron HS Surfacer (Herberts)

• Standox 2K HS Filler (Herberts)

• Let the primer air dry for 5-10 minutes, then force dry with a infrared lamp.

NOTE: Keep the dryer 40-50 cm (16-20 in) from the

surface.

9. Polishing Undercoat

• Remove the masking paper and tape.

• Check that the undercoat has dried thoroughly, then dry or wet sand the surface with a #280 or #320 paper.

NOTE:

• Use a rubber block and sand flat and smooth.

• Sand the entire surface to be refinished.

10. Air Blowing/Degreasing

12. Application of Intermediate Coat 1/Drying

15. Masking

Check the masking paper (Step 11) for tears or fouling, and repair or reinforce as necessary (see page

8-8).

16. Application of Intermediate Coat 2

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before

opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

• Spray either 2-part epoxy or urethane primer surfacer

to the polished primed surface as an intermediate coat.

• Let the paint coat air dry for 5-10 minutes, then

force dry with an infrared lamp.

NOTE: Keep the dryer 40-50 cm (16-20 in) from the surface.

For replacement parts:

Spray intermediate coat 2 over the surface.

NOTE:

• For inner surfaces, you may start with Step 16 "Application of Intermediate Coat 2."

• Top coat enamel is used for this purpose

13. Polishing of Intermediate Coat 1

Check that the undercoat is dried thoroughly, then dry or wet sand the surface with a #400 or #600 paper.

NOTE: Use a rubber block and sand flat and smooth,

covering entire surface.

14. Air Blowing/Degreasing

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

• Use the same color paint as the top coat, and spray it over the surface until the intermediate coat (primer surfacer) is fully covered.

• Spray the paint slightly thicker than normal to allow

for loss during subsequent polishing.

• Super ponacle II (R-M)

• Super Centari (Du Pont)

• Auto cryl (Akzo)

• Spies Hecker Permacron 2K Acrylic Top Coat (Herberts)

• Standocryl 2K (standox) (Herberts)

17. Polishing of Intermediate Coat 2

• Check that the paint coat has been dried thoroughly, then dry or wet sand the surface with a #600, #800, or #1000 paper.

NOTE: Use a rubber block and sand flat and smooth, being careful not to expose the intermediate coat 1.

Polishing of Top Coat (if damaged):

• Use the same technique described above.

• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.

• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye injury.

• Air blow the entire surface, then degrease with a wax and grease remover (for USA usage-DuPont 38125 Enamel Reducer).

• Use the following materials:

• Spies Hecker Silicon Remover (Herberts)

• Standox silicon Remover (Herberts)

Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)

18. Air Blowing/Degreasing

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

• Spray color-matched top coat over the prepared surface. Apply 2-3 coats in two directions until the intermediate coat 2 is fully covered.

NOTE: For application of the top coat, refer to Step 16 "Application of Intermediate Coat 2." Pearl color: Pearl enamel + clear coat

Metallic color: Metallic enamel + clear coat

NOTE: With body color are NH-592P and G-79P, spray the scratch resistant clear coat.

• Use the following materials:

• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.

• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye injury.

• Air blow the entire surface, then degrease with a wax and grease remover (for USA usage-DuPont 38125

Enamel Reducer).

• Use the following materials:

• Spies Hecker Silicon Remover (Herberts)

• Standox Silicon Remover (Herberts)

• For shading or spot painting, polish the area with a

polishing compound. Sand with a #2000 paper to give a better bonding surface for the subsequent paint.

19. Masking

• Remove all existing masking papers, then mask with new papers.

• Use a heat-resistant masking tape (SCOTCH TAPE)

where tape is attached directly to the body.

• Use brown paper or masking roll paper to cover.

NOTE:

• Mask the area surrounding the damage sufficiently to prevent overspray. It is also a good practice to use a vinyl cover to protect other areas.

• Protect resin parts with aluminum foil under the brown paper or masking paper to prevent damage to due to heat during baking.

20. Application of Top Coat Spraying/drying

• Prior to putting the car in the painting booth, thoroughly clean the interior and spray water over the

floor. Be careful about blowing dust and dirt.

Use materials above or equivalents.

• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.

• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye injury.

• Air dry and degrease the surface before spraying the

paint. Also clean the surface with a tack cloth.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• After spraying, allow the paint to settle for about 10 minutes, then force dry with an infrared lamp.

NOTE: Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions.

Body parts being dried with an industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury. Do no touch parts being dried.

21. Polishing/buffing

• Let the paint dry gradually, then polish the surface

carefully using a polishing compound and sponge buffing pad.

• To remove lint or dirt, wet sand the surface with

#2000 paper or finer first, then polish with compound.

NOTE: Polish all roughness caused by sanding thor-

oughly. To do this, first polish with very fine com-

pound, then with ultra fine compound.

• After polishing, remove the masking paper and tape, and wash the entire vehicle thoroughly.

NH-585P (Cayman White Pearl) Paint

Color Matching

Repair of NH-585P (Cayman White Pearl) paint coat requires different procedures from that of metallic and pearl paint coats.

Determination of color:

1. Using a #800 - #1000 sandpaper, sand the damaged paint coat until the intermediate coat 2 appears.

2. Polish the exposed paint coat with an ultra fine compound, then compare its color with the color sample provided.

3. Prepare a paint based on the color sample selected according to the instructions.

4. After preparing, check that the paint prepared matches

the color sample selected in step 2.

NOTE: On pearl paint, the color of the intermediate coat 2

will determine the final color of the paint repair.

NH-585P (Cayman White Pearl) Paint

Color Matching (cont'd)

Mixing (Reference):

The paint prepared should be mixed with thinner and hard-

ner as follows.

NOTE: The following examples are based on the paints manufactured by ISAM Paint Co., Ltd High Art #3000).

PAINT (Intermediate Coat 2: color base)

2. Pour the mixture through a filter, then spray 2-3 light coats over the damaged surface.

NOTE: Spray the mixture until the intermediate coat 2 is thoroughly covered.

3. Prepare paint for graduation by mixing 1 part of Paint with 19 parts of the paint (B). Stir the mixture

well.

4. Pour the mixture through a filter, then spray 2-3 light coats of the filtered mixture over paint Start at the center, then work toward the edge.

NOTE:

• Check that the painted coat matches the color of the body paint while spraying.

• Application of the mixture will determine the final

color of the paint repair. Do not spray the mixture excessively as this may alter the final color of the repair.

5. Apply 1-2 light coats of paint over the repaired surface.

6. For the final top coat, add 15% thinner to a 4 : 1 mixture of the clear paint and hardener.

The above paints and materials or their equivalents should

be used.

NOTE: Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions when mixing the paint and other materials.

Refinishing Procedures:

7. Spray 2-3 light final top coats over the damaged area.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read

the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator,

gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

1. To prepare the first coat (paint ) add a 1 part of

paint to 1 part of paint and mix well.

Soft Chipping Guard Primer Coat

General

The removal of paint and Undercoating by stones and gravel immediately exposes metal to the atmosphere, causing it to rust. The thickness of this rust increases if the process continues unchecked. The soft chipping guard primer protects against damage due to the impact of flying objects. The purpose of this guide is to provide information you will find useful when repairing damage to the protective coating. Refer to the Soft Chipping Primer Undercoating Diagram.

The soft chipping guard primer is applied over the E.D. (Electrostatically Deposited) primer. It is followed by guide coating and top

coating.

The soft chipping guard primer produces a smooth surface when dry. It should be sprayed so the thickness of the protective film is 20 microns.

Soft Chipping Guard Primer Coat

Coating Diagram

The diagram shows the areas to which soft chipping primer is to be applied.

NOTE: Make sure to coat the flange on front and rear wheel arches.

Unit: mm (in)

Types of Soft Chipping Guard Primer (Reference)

Repair Materials and Tools

Gun and brushes:

• Spray gun NOTE: Any gun having a tip of more than 1.0 mm

(0.04 in) in diameter may be used for spraying the primer.

• Viscosity measure Iwata-type (IMS) cup, Ford cup

• Beaker

1-2 (1.05-2.10 US. qt, 0.9-2 Imp. qt) in capacity

• Stirring stick

Tools:

• Air or double action sander

• Sandpaper .(#240-#400)

Thinner and cleaner:

• Use the thinner specified for the primer.

• Any commercially available lacquer thinner may be used

to clean the gun.

Materials:

• Use primers equivalent to the ones shown in Types of Chipping Guard Primer (Reference).

• Make sure to keep the thickness of the coat at 20

microns.

Masking:

• Masking tape, paper, vinyl sheet and plate (veneer and steel).

• Masking plates are not necessary when spraying in a booth.

Protectors:

• Wear an approved respirator or dust mask, gloves, safety goggles and other protective clothing.

• Rags.

• Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the container.

• Spray paint only in a well ventilated area.

• Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once.

• Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.

• If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with

water and get prompt medical attention.

• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

Acura RL 1996 2004 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual