Acura NSX 1995 User Manual

1995 Model Series NSX/NSX-T Body Repair Manual

INTRODUCTION

How to Use This Manual

Body Repair

Preparation of Work

This manual covers the repairs of 1995 model series NSX/NSX-T* automobiles that have been involved in accidents, and it describes the work related to the replacement of damaged body parts.

Please read through these instructions and familiarize yourself with them before actually using this manual. NOTE: Refer to the applicable NSX/NSX-T Service Manual and Supplements for specifications, wire harness locations, safety stand support points, etc. *: In this manual text body type is mentioned. So they are NSX: Coupe, NXS-T: NSX-T (open top).

Special Information

WARNING

Indicates a strong possibility of severe personal injury or death if instructions are not followed.

CAUTION

Indicates a possibility of personal injury or equipment damage if instructions are not followed.

NOTE: Gives helpful information.

CAUTION

Detailed descriptions of standard workshop procedures, safety principles and service operations are not included. Please note that this manual does contain warnings and cautions against some specific service methods which could cause PERSONAL INJURY, damage a vehicle, or make it unsafe. Please understand that these warnings cannot cover all conceivable ways in which service, whether or not recommended by Honda, might be done or of the possible hazardous consequences of each conceivable way, nor could Honda investigate all such ways. Anyone using service procedures or tools, whether or not recommended by Honda, must satisfy himself thoroughly that neither personal safety or vehicle safety will be jeopardized.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

General Information

Replacement

Cross Section of Body and

Sealants

Body Dimensional

Drawings

Rust-preventive Treatments

All information contained in this manual is based on the latest product information available at the time of printing. We reserve the right to make changes at any time without notice. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. This includes text, figures and tables.

HONDA MOTOR CO., LTD.

Service Publication Office

Paint Repair

Body Paint Repair

Resin Parts Paint Repair

(Exterior)

Service Precautions

General Safety Precautions

Preparation of Work

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

• Most monocoque bodies are composed as a single unit by welding together pressed parts made of steel plates which come in a variety of different shapes and sizes. Each part is responsible for displaying a certain strength and durability in order that it may play its role in meeting the functions of the body as a whole.

• The NSX/NSX-T has an all aluminum monocoque body made of the aluminum alloy. Generally speaking, the collision damage of

the aluminum alloy body is not very different form that of the steel plate body.

Damage to the exterior of the body can be inspected visually, but where there has been an external impact, it is necessary to inspect the extent of the damage. In some cases, the deformation has spread beyond the actual areas which were in the collision and so this has to be inspected closely.

Checkpoints

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• Accurate Inspection of Damaged Parts (Visual)

Seat Belts

Always replace the seat belt if:

1. The belt material is cut, punctured, burned or in any way damaged.

2. The buckle or retractor does not work properly.

3. They were being worn at the time of a collision (check for damage at the seat belt anchor points).

4. Their condition is questionable.

Front Section:

1. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?

2. Is there any deformation of the front bulkhead or radiator core? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

3. Are there any creases or distortion in the front wheelhouse or side frame? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

4. Is there any bending or twisting of the whole front area?

5. Is there any deformation like creases, bulges, or dents in the front pillar, dashboard, floor, etc.?

6. Is there any vertical twisting or misaligned clearance in the door?

7. Is the windshield seal broken?

8. Is there any deformation in the vicinity of the top part of the roof panel's center pillar?

9. Is there any damage inside the automobile (is there any twisting of the dashboard, or anything irregular with the clearances or sheet-mounting parts)?

10. Is there any damage to the steering wheel? Is there any deformation in the column and the column-mounted parts?

Rear Section:

1. Is there any twisting, bulging or denting of the rear floor and rear bolsters? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

2. Is there any irregular bulging or denting in the rear fender?

3. Is there any distortion in the rear inner panel? Is there any bending and denting in the vicinity of the rear pillar?

4. Is there any distortion or creasing in the rear wheelhouse and arch sections? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

5. Is there anything irregular in the rear glass seal clearance?

6. Is there any twisting or misalignment of the clearance of the trunk lid opening section?

7. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?

8. Is there any deformation oh the rear floor cross member, trunk front panel and damper base? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

9. Is there any oil or water leakage and damage to the engine, transmission or brakes?

10. Is there any irregular noise in the gear changing operation, engine and transmission rotation?

11. Are there any traces of contact between the engine block and the center cross member?

12. Is there any damage to brake or fuel lines, or wire harnesses?

Preparation of Work

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Correction of the Damaged Area

Set the frame corrector on the car body.

The side sill is flangeless to allow reshaping by pulling it out.

Use the horizontal pinch welds for anchoring the car.

1. Apply load to the damaged section and pull it out until the

Main Menu

Table of Contents

section is almost restored to the original shape.

5. Decide whether to cut the weld joint parts and replace partially, or whether to replace all the parts.

2. Check that the parts of the body they cover have been more or less restored to their original shapes.

NOTE: As work-hardening occurs to the buckled section of the aluminum alloy, it can crack easily. Heat up the damaged section with an acetylene welder and pull it out to reshape it 1184°F (640°C) is the melting point of the

aluminum alloy. Take care not to overheat it. Watch the

heating temperature using a thermopaint, or heat crayon

(see page 2-31).

NOTE: Welded parts that can be partially cut and replaced are restricted to those listed in this manual (see section 4).

6. Cut off and separate the damaged parts.

NOTE: When cutting the parts off, take special care

that you do not damage adjacent parts on the automo-

bile.

7. Mold the related parts.

8. Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

9. Set and tack weld the replacement parts.

NOTE: Temporarily mount the related parts and check the clearance and level differences.

10. Weld the replacement parts. Welding methods (see section 2).

NOTE: Use of the positioning jig is recommended.

11. Check the welding sections for cracks (see page 2-29).

3. Check the original position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) and the positioning jigs

(see page 1-7).

4. Remove the parts that require replacement.

NOTE: The paint film, which is designed to prevent corrosion caused by moisture, is destroyed around the edges of the locations that have been repaired by welding. Therefore, in such places and especially in those areas that are not visible, apply another coat of the paint;

refer to the anti-corrosion painting manual. This operation is designed to maintain durability and quality (see section 7).

Preparation of Work

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Measurement (Excluding small damage)

Whenever possible, make judgements and conclusions based on measurement. Measure the wheel alignment (see page 1 -2) so as to prevent any future trouble like unsymmetrical wear of the tires or catching of the steering wheel.

If there are any deviations, use a tram tracking gauge and measure parts of the body.

If there is any twisting to the body, measure using a frame centering gauge.

When measuring body dimensions, use a universal tram gauge.

Positioning Jig

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Front under frame positioning jig Rear under frame positioning jig

Roof panel positioning jig set NSX-T (open top) only

4-14

4-61,

4-65, 4-68

4-10,

4-22, 4-31, 4-38, 4-50, 4-69, 84, 89

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Safety Precautions

Precautions for Ensuring Safety:

1. Although aluminum is non-toxic, it is lightweight, so fine particles of metal given off by sanding operations tend to float in the air. It is therefore vital that operators protect their lungs and eyes from this dust.

2. Small pieces of aluminum alloy are spattered by MIG welding can be projected over considerable distance. It is therefore

important to provide protection not only for the welders operators themselves, but also for anyone in the surrounding areas.

3. The sparks generated from the arc during inert gas are welding are very bright and may hurt the eyes if viewed directly. A protective shield for the eyes must therefore be worn at all times when welding.

Use of protective gear to ensure safety:

Work overalls with long sleeves, a cap, and safety shoes must be worn at all times. Depending on the job to be done, protective goggles, gloves, ear plugs, and a dust-proof mask should also be worn (see page 2-7).

CAUTION:

• When aluminum alloys are heated, they melt without changing color.

Melting temperature

Aluminum alloys: Approx. 1184°F (640°C) (depends on alloy) Steel plate: Approx. 2732°F (1500°C)

• Aluminum alloys can be repaired in virtually the same way as steel sheets, but it is important to have a good grasp of their properties and be thoroughly familiar with their limitations.

• Aluminum alloys tend to overheat during sanding. When they overheat, the metal tends to flake and clog the filing surface of the sanding tool. If a tool with a clogged surface is used, it will leave scratches and marks on the base metal.

Welding Methods

Main Menu

Table of Contents

1. MIG (metal inert gas arc) welding

This type of welding uses consumable electrodes, with electrode wire serving as the electrode. Inert gas is passed through the torch and welding takes place when an arc is formed between the electrode wire and the base metal. The electrode wire is supplied automatically.

Although it is dependent on the proficiency of the welder himself, the minimum thickness of weldable aluminum alloy sheets has been 1. 6 mm (0. 06 in). In most cases the sheets used have been over 3 mm (0. 1 in) thick. More recently, welders have been developed for handling sheets with a thickness of 1 mm (0. 04 in) or less.

2. TIG (tungsten inert gas arc) welding

This type of welding uses non-consumable electrodes, with tungsten rods serving as the electrodes. Inert gas is passed through the torch, an arc is formed between the electrode and the base metal, and welding takes place when the heat from the arc melts the base metal and hand-held welding rod. the minimum thickness of aluminum alloy sheets which can be welded is about 0. 6 mm (0. 02 in), although this method is not suited to heat-treated alloys because there are many thermal

effects.

3. Carbon dioxide gas arc welding (metal active gas arc welding)

In place of the high-cost inert gas, carbon dioxide gas or carbon dioxide gas mixed with argon gas is employed as the shielding gas in the metal active gas arc welders often used today in body shops. Carbon dioxide gas is not an inert gas in the full sense of the term so these welders are known by the acronym of "MAG" (metal active gas), rather than "MIG. "

4. Gas (oxygen, acetylene) welding

Welding or brazing work must not be undertaken using these gases.

Since it is hard to concentrate the heat at the welding point, the thermal effects extend to the surrounding area and the

strength of the aluminum alloy is reduced. Neither must gas welding be used for brazing since joint strength is too low.

NOTE: Gas welders are used for heating work when aluminum alloys are shaped. (It is necessary to control the upper limit temperature. )

5. Spot welding

Aluminum alloys cannot be welded using the conventional spot welders which are used in body shops.

The capabilities of spot welders for steel plate are not sufficient for aluminum alloys which have high thermal conductivity.

No matter how long the welding current is allowed to run, the heat escapes to the surrounding areas and the base metal does not melt, making welding impossible. It requires a very high current of several tens of thousands of amperes and high pressure to spot-weld an aluminum alloy.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Welding Methods (cont'd)

Comparison of spot welding for aluminum alloys and steel plate (one example)

NOTE:

• Welding conditions may induce changes in the spot welding current given in the comparison above.

• See page 2-10 for the re-bonding procedure applied when spot-welds on an aluminum alloy body are repaired. MIG welding is used.

• A person proficient at carbon dioxide gas arc welding who has an adequate understanding of the properties of aluminum alloys will be able to master the technique after practicing for a short while. Practice is important for increasing one's competence.

CAUTION:

• Aluminum alloys melt without changing color when heated.

• It is difficult to judge the melting point when an alloy is heated.

• Aluminum alloys have a coefficient of thermal expansion which is approximately double that of steel plate and a coefficient of contraction during solidification which is approximately 1. 5 times higher. They are therefore subject to strain more easily and welding cracks (bead cracks and crater cracks) develop.

• Cleaning the welding location greatly affects results. Although the oxide film is destroyed by the cleaning action, it is important for all dirt to be removed, along with any oil and grease, prior to the welding.

• Tools used for welding aluminum alloys must be kept completely separate from those used for steel plate.

• Use a stainless steel wire brush.

• Use sanding tools which have been reserved especially for use only with aluminum alloys. If the same tools are used for steel plate as well, iron deposits will remain on the surface of the aluminum alloy and contaminate welds. )

• Inert gas arc welding is a gas-shielded method and is therefore unfit for working in areas exposed to wind or breezes. It is important that the flow of the inert gas is not disturbed.

Welders

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Performance of Welders:

1. Output current: Approx. 200 A at maximum output

2. Electrode wire diameter: Approx. 0. 8~-1. 2 mm (0. 031 (A5356WY) ~0.05 in)

3. Shielding Gas: 100% Argon

• It is an added convenience if the welder can be set to seam, stitch and spot modes.

• A welder which can be used for both aluminum alloy MIG welding and steel plate carbon dioxide gas arc welding simply by changing some parts is economical and efficient.

NOTE: Follow the manufacturers' instruction.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Filler Metals

When "filler metal" is mentioned in this text, it refers to welding rods for TIG welding and to electrode wire for MIG welding.

The selection of the filler metal affects the following items relating to the state of the welded joints:

Flaws in joints (bead cracks)

Strength of joints

Toughness of joints (tenacity)

Resistance of joints to corrosion

is the filler metal best suited to aluminum alloys in the 5000 and 6000 series which are used for HONDA

aluminum alloy bodies.

Filler metal storage

Proper storage of filler metals is important for best welding results.

NOTE:

• Store filler metals where they will not become dirty or scratched and where they will be free from contact with oils and greases.

• Use clean gloves when handling filler metals. Seal them in airtight vinyl bags, and store at a constant temperature in a location where they will be dry at all times. Before sealing the electrode wire, make sure that it is wound properly on its spool.

• Take steps to ensure that the seal cover is not opened until actual use.

Examples of Repair Tools

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Examples of Repair Tools (cont'd)

NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush and sanding tools reserved especially for aluminum alloys. Do not use the same tools

for steel sheet.

Grain size for sanding/processing tools and jobs performed.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

NOTE:

• Use a low-speed disc grinder or disc sander.

• If a low-speed air-powered disc grinder is not available, attach an air control valve to reduce grinder speed.

• A double-action sander may also be used.

Cleaning-oxide film removal:

Clean the welding locations throughly (both front and back surfaces).

• Use a wax and grease remover to clean off any dirt, oil or grease.

• Use a disc sander and stainless steel wire brush to remove paint and oxide films. Use a #80 sanding disc.

NOTE: Do not allow the sanding disc of the disc sander to become clogged. If the disc sander is pressed excessively hard, it will overheat due to friction and the aluminum alloy will tend to peel off, clogging the disc. The alloy surface will be scraped and scored if a clogged disc is used.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

MIG Welding Conditions

MIG welding can be performed under virtually the same conditions as for the carbon dioxide gas arc welding of steel plate mentioned previously. The differences are outlined below.

The factors which affect deposition at the welding location and serve as the welding conditions for carbon dioxide gas arc welding

of steel plates are:

• Welding current,

• Welding voltage (automatically adjusted for HTP MAXI MIG),

• Electrode wire speed,

• Distance between contact tip and base metal,

• Gun angle,

• Gun feed speed,

• Volume of shielding gas.

NOTE:

Distance between contact

tip and

base

metal: 8~15

(0.3~0.6

in).

Arc generation

As with steel-plate welding, an arc is generated and welding starts once the torch switch is thrown.

• Welding startup is impaired if the electrode wire extends too far out or if the end is spherical. In such cases, cut off the end of the wire with a pair of wire cutters.

CAUTION:

• The torch switch must not be thrown with the electrode wire in contact with the base metal.

• When cutting the end of the electrode wire, point the torch downward and cut near ground level to

protect the eyes from the cut end.

Sound of arc when welding under proper conditions:

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• With aluminum alloy MIG welding, there is a quiet and continuous humming sound similar to that heard during carbon dioxide gas arc welding.

• A small amount of soot is formed along the bead during MIG welding. This is caused by magnesium contained in the electrode wires.

1. Differences in welding conditions

When comparing the welding of aluminum alloys and steel plate using the same welder, the thickness range of plates which can be welded is less for aluminum alloys. In other words, the welder setting conditions must be adjusted more finely for welding aluminum alloys.

-1. Welding current, electrode wire speed Under the same welding current conditions, the electrode wire for aluminum alloys needs to be fed faster than that for steel plates.

— 2. Distance between contact tip and base metal

As for steel plate welding, the distance ranges from 8~15 mm (0.3~0.6 in). The gas shielding effect is enhanced by

positioning the gun closer to the surface.

-3. Gun angle The gun is held perpendicular to the welding surface. It is tilted at a 5~15°angle in the direction of the welding advance. Compared with steel plate welding, the gun angle is slightly more vertical.

— 4 Direction of gun advance

Either a straight sequence or back-step can be used when for welding steel sheets. With aluminum alloys, however, only

the forehand welding method is used.

-5. Gun travel speed Welding of aluminum alloys progresses at a much faster rate than for steel plate. The speed increases as the welding

progresses.

-6. Volume of shielding gas About 50% more gas is required than for steel sheet welding.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

MIG Welding Conditions (cont'd)

2. Nozzle and contact tip

Compared with the carbon dioxide arc welding of steel plates, spattering adheres more readily at the end of the nozzle and the contact tip.

• Adhesion of spattering can be reduced by using an anti-spatter compound. This makes it easier to remove spatter as well.

• The nozzle and contact tip are subjected to greater wear than with steel plate welding.

3. Electrode wire setting

Since the cable inner liner is made of teflon, be sure not to mark or scratch it.

• Use sandpaper to smooth the edge of the end of the electrode wire before feeding it through by hand.

4. Adjustment of electrode wire drive roller tension

Tension is adjusted to a setting less than that for steel plate welding. When the electrode wire is held lightly at the contact tip area and the torch switch is on, the wire is set so that it will slip in the drive roller area. If the tension is set too high, the

aluminum alloy electrode wire will be twisted. If it is set too low, the wire speed will not be constant.

NOTE:

• The tools used for aluminum alloy welding should be kept completely separate from those used for steel plate.

• Use a stainless steel wire brush.

• Use sanding tools which have been reserved especially for use with aluminum alloys, (If the same tools are used for steel plate as well, iron deposits will remain on the surface of the aluminum alloy contaminating the welding locations.)

• Proper storage of electrode wire is important for best welding results.

• Store electrode wires where they will not become dirty or scratched and where they will be free from contact with oils and greases.

• When electrode wire is being used, ensure that it is wound properly on its spool. Use clean gloves to seal wire in airtight

vinyl bags and store at a constant temperature in a location where it will be dry at all times.

• Take steps to ensure that the covers sealing electrode wire containers are not opened until actual use.

Plug Welding Procedures

Main Menu

Table of Contents

When removing or replacing plates bonded by spot welding, drill through the spot weld nugget and remove. The combinations shown in the figures below apply when plates are to be welded together. Drill the hole when the plates have been removed or drill the prepared hole, and proceed with plug welding.

1. Plate combinations and prepared holes Diameter of drill (spot cutter) when removing plates: 10 mm (3/8") Drill the hole in the new part. Drill diameter: 8~10 mm (5/16~3/8")

2. Adherence Where the plug welding is to be performed, the aluminum alloy plates must adhere together firmly, otherwise the welding will

be defective.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Plug Welding Procedures (cont'd)

3. Cleaning and sanding

• Use a wax and grease remover to clean off any dirt, oil or grease prior to welding.

• If the aluminum alloy surface is coated with a paint film, use a disc sander and #80 sanding disc to remove the paint.

• Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the bare surface of the aluminum alloy immediately before the welding. NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the bare surface of the aluminum alloy immediately before welding.

Cleaning range

Unit: mm (in)

When drilling a single-layer hole in two stacked plates:

Sand the top and bottom surfaces of the top plate and the welding surface of the bottom plate.

Oxide film removal by sanding

Remove oxide film by sanding.

Prepared hole.

When a hole is to be made through two stacked plates:

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Sand the top and bottom surfaces of both the top and bottom plates.

When a hole is to be made through three stacked plates:

Range of oxide film removal by sanding.

Sand both surfaces of the top, middle and bottom plates as

shown to remove oxide film.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Plug Welding Procedures (cont'd)

4. Welding Prepared hole diameter: 10 mm (0.4 in)

Plug welding starts from the outside of all weld zones (outside start).

As shown in the figure, outside start welding commences at a position approximately 15 mm (0.6 in) from the weld zone.

Advantages of outside start

• Penetration is enhanced by the preheating effect accompanying the outside start.

• The initial penetration area is clearly visible is the light given off by the arc and working efficiency is improved.

• Outside start provides preheating to safeguard the aluminum alloy from inadequate initial penetration.

NOTE: Maintain a stable posture so that the torch does not move around but is held firmly and so that the weld zone is clearly

visible.

When drilling a single-layer hole in two stacked plates:

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Proceed with welding while aiming at the edge of the hole

where the top and bottom plates meet.

NOTE: Melting of 1/3 to 2/3 of the bottom plate is the adequate for the weld.

With a hole through two stacked plates:

• Proceed with welding while closely observing the melting condition of the weld zone.

• Until the operator is experienced in welding, take care not to increase the distance between the torch contact tip and base metal.

• Ensure adequate penetration as far as the bottom plate. The reverse side bead on the bottom plate may protrude

in the process. Keep the protrusion to a minimum.

(1) First, proceed from the top.

Proceed with welding while aiming at the joint where the top and bottom plates meet.

With a hole through three stacked plates:

Proceed with welding while aiming at the joint where the

middle and bottom plates meet.

• The plug hole is filled after welding to a distance equivalent to about one and half times the entire circumference.

• The plug hole is filled after welding to a distance equivalent to about twice the entire circumference.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Plug Welding Procedures (cont'd)

(2) Use a disc grinder or disc sander to grind down the area

where the bead on the reverse side protrudes until it is flush with the surface of the bottom plate.

(3) Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the surface

where the bead is ground down.

(4) Use an outside start to weld the bottom plate where the

bead is ground down.

(5) When welding the bottom surface, position the torch

perpendicularly and weld around the edge of the plug hole.

Butt Welding Procedures

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Reduce the clearance as shown in the figure below for butt welding thin plates or sheets. If the clearance is too wide, welding

should be performed in the stitch mode.

1. Edge preparation Weld with a square edge without special preparation.

• Use a smooth-cut file to bring the the edge preparation surface to a smooth finish.

Proceed with V-shaped edge preparation.

• Edge preparation is required for butt welding thick plates, as shown.

• Use a disc grinder and file (rough-cut or vixen file) for edge preparation.

• Use a disc sander with #80 sanding disc and a file (smooth-cut) to finish the prepared area.

• Reverse side beads often occur because of edge preparation in the above figure.

2. Cleaning and sanding Use a wax and grease remover to clean off any dirt, oil or grease prior to welding. If the aluminum alloy surface is coated with a paint film, use disc sander and #80 sanding disc to remove the paint. NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to brush the bare surface of the aluminum alloy. Do this on both the top and bottom surfaces.

Sanding range

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Butt Welding Procedures (cont'd)

Sanding range

For V-shaped edge preparation:

Sand the top to a width approximately 3 times the width of the edge and the bottom to a width approximately equivalent to the edge.

NOTE: Also sand the edge preparation area.

3. Tack Welding Prior to finish welding, carry out tack welding to prevent strain and enhance joint precision. Weld the plates at several

points with short beads.

NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the tack weld zones prior to finish welding.

• The thinner the sheet or plate, the shorter the tack welding pitch and bead.

• Avoid tack welding the ends and corners of the base metal.

• Since the beads left by tack welding are not ground down afterward, this process should be carried out with the same precision as finish welding.

4. Main welding

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Maintain a stable posture so that the gun does not move around but is held firmly. The weld zone is clearly visible. Maintain the proper distance between the gun contact tip and the base metal, and maintain the proper gun angle. Adjust

the gun feed speed while observing penetration.

NOTE:

• Aluminum alloys are welded at a higher gun feed speed than steel plate.

• Use the forehand welding sequence for the gun advance direction in order to minimize the formation of black soot.

• Until the operator is experienced in welding, take care not to increase the distance between the torch contact tip and the base metal.

• When welding multiple layers of a thick material, brush the surface of the welded area thoroughly using a stainless steel wire brush after each pass.

5. Crater treatment

Craters may form when the welding bead is completed. They should be filled properly to avoid defects.

There are two ways of treating craters. Either stop the gun and fill the crater without switching off the arc suddenly

when

the

welding

bead

completed,

alternatively,

switch

the arc and

then

back

again

fill

the

crater.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Butt welding Procedures (cont'd)

6. How to weld without inducing strain

Tremendous strain results if the base metal is overheated during MIG welding.

• When many welding joints have been created, proceed to weld from a location with a minimal degree of freedom. Normally, welding proceeds from the center of the area or center of the joints to the outside.

• In direct proportion to the thickness of the plates, do not conduct lengthy welding operations at one time. Instead, divide

the job up into shorter operations, as shown in the figure below.

Preventing strain by sequencing welding work:

Welding procedure

• When an operator is experienced, the strain can be reduced by increasing the gun feed speed at higher power settings (current). This method reduces the amount of heat transmitted to the base metal.

• In the case of thin plates where there is a danger of melt-down, do not weld continuously without stopping but weld short sections at a time. If the welder is provided with a stitch mode, set to this mode and perform stitch welding.

Butt weld zone defects:

Main Menu

Table of Contents

The table below shows possible weld zone defects and their causes. Care must be taken to ensure that none of these defects occur. If a defect does develop, pinpoint the causes and consider the appropriate countermeasure, change the work method, and proceed in a way which will produce stable welding results.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Butt welding Procedures (cont'd)

Fillet Welding Procedures

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Fillet welding is used on body parts which have different thickness and which need to be strong comparatively. It is important to have a thorough grasp of what follows.

1. Adherence The aluminum alloy plates where the fillet welding is to be performed must fit together firmly, otherwise, the weld will be defective.

2. Cleaning and sanding Use a wax and grease remover to clean away any dirt, oil or grease prior to welding. If the aluminum alloy surface is coated with a paint film, use a disc sander with a #80 sanding disc to remove the paint.

NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the bare surface of the aluminum alloy immediately before welding.

Sanding range:

Sand the top and bottom surfaces of the upper plate and the adhesion surface of the lower plate.

Sand to a width of about 10 mm (0.4 in) on both the upper and lower plates on the outside of the weld line, and to a width of about 5 mm (0.2 in) from the weld line for the inside surface which will be overlapped. Also sand the end of the upper plate.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Fillet Welding Procedures (cont'd)

3. Welding During actual welding, penetration will occur quickly for the top plate since the end of the plate is being welded. For the bottom

plate, however, welding starts at the center of the plate, which is hard to melt. Proceed with the current slightly higher than for butt welding and closely observe bottom plate penetration.

Although in the case of butt welding the gun is positioned perpendicular to the base metal, in fillet welding it is used at an angle with the base metal surface which depends on the plate thickness. The operator should carefully observe the melting of the base

metal and proceed. Special attention must be paid when the thicknesses of the top and bottom plates differ.

The ideal size of the bead in a cross-sectional view of fillet welding is identical to or slightly larger than the plate thickness. If the thickness of the plates differ, proceed to weld in alignment with the thin plate so as to minimize both the strain induced by welding the base metal and any changes in organization which may occur.

NOTE: Welding should be intermittent.

Fillet weld zone defects:

Main Menu

Table of Contents

The table below shows frequent fillet weld zone defects and their causes.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Weld Area Finishing

NOTE: Inspect for cracks before finishing the weld zones of aluminum alloys (see page 2-29).

When sanding weld zones

Use a disc grinder (A36P grindstone) for roughing and a disc sander for finishing (#80).

-1) Roughing

Use the disc grinder (A36P) for weld reinforce-

ments, always leaving a finishing allowance.

-2) Finishing Cut Operation

Use the disc sander (#80 disc) to finish the area of the finishing allowance and give the weld zone a smooth finish.

NOTE:

• Roughing applies only to weld reinforcements. Care should be taken to leave the surface of the aluminum alloy untouched.

• Take care not to remove too much material in the roughing process since this can cause a loss of strength.

• Take care not to press the sanding tool too forcefully against the surface.

• Replace the disc of the sanding tool with a fresh disc if the surface becomes clogged with aluminum alloy fragments.

• Weld zones that are hidden from view do not need to be finished..

Crack Inspection

Main Menu

Table of Contents

An inspection for cracks must be conducted after the weld zones of the aluminum alloy have been welded and after any bucking in aluminum alloy body frames has been straightened out.

A color contrast penetrant examination method is used for crack inspection.

• The penetrant method utilizes the capillary phenomenon of liquids. The test itself uses a liquid with a powerful penetration capability to check out the location of minute defects which are not visible to the naked eye.

• The color contrast penetrant method is a type of penetrant test which uses a penetrant solution containing coloring. A penetrant solution which contrasts strongly with the color of the developing solution is used to enable the lighter locations to be observed.

Method of application

Items used: penetrant solution, developing solution, washer

1. Wash the inspection surface with the washer.

2. Apply penetrant solution to the surface and allow the solution ample time to soak down inside the cracks.

3. Wash off any excess penetrant solution remaining on the surface.

4. Spread the developing solution and cracks will be clearly indicated.

NOTE:

• During these operations, be sure to follow the instructions for use given by the manufacturer of the color contrast penetration agent.

• Be careful of ventilation.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

When a Crack is detected

1. Weld zones

If a crack is detected in a weld, scrape off an area twice as long as the crack and reweld.

2. Shaping

CAUTION: If a crack is formed when the sheet metal is being straightened, replace the part, do not correct by welding.

NOTE: If, upon completion of the work, there are still very minute cracks which cannot be detected except with a color contrast penetrant, drill holes at both ends of the crack, and proceed with the welding.

Body, Frame Area Shaping

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Body and frame areas made of aluminum alloys use plates which are between 1.5 and 2 times as thick as steel plates.

When deformations must be straightened out, aluminum alloys feel harder or stiffer to the touch than conventional steel plate.

In order to avoid inducing changes in the quality of steel plate, the use of a torch to heat up sheet plates is avoided whenever possible. In the case of aluminum alloys, however, work hardening occurs in buckled areas which makes it easy for cracks to

form.

Do not use a frame straightener for straightening work without applying heat with an acetylene torch. At temperatures above

392°F (200°C) elongation characteristics are improved and work is facilitated.

Heating temperature control method

Since the melting point of aluminum alloys is approximately 1184°F (640°C) and since there is hardly any change in color, even when the temperature rises, there is a tendency to apply too much heat.

To check the degree of heating and keep it within limits, use thermopaint that changes color 230°F (110°C).

Apply the thermopaint in a strip about 10 mm (0.4 in) wide at a point approx. 25 mm (1.0 in) from the outer circumference to

be exposed to the torch flame. Stop heating when the color clearly changes in the surrounding area where the thermopaint was applied. The temperature of the heated at this time will be less than 752°F (400°C).

The time required for heating depends greatly on how the aluminum alloy is exposed to the torch flame and on the area covered by the heating.

As shown in the figure below, the upper temperature limit can be controlled and overheating prevented by applying thermopaint in places 25 mm (1.0 in) away from the area to be heated.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Body, Frame Area Shaping (cont'd)

NOTE:

• Thermopaint (temperature indicator which changes color at 230°F (110°C) must be used for temperature control to ensure that the aluminum alloy does not overheat.

• When heating an alloy, move the torch flame continually so that it does not focus on one particular spot.

CAUTION:

• When heated, aluminum alloys melt without changing color.

• Since the side sills of aluminum alloy bodies are susceptible to bending and torsional stress, an extruded heat-treated

material (6000 series) is used. If a side sill is damaged, it must be replaced.

Skin Panel Area Shaping

Main Menu

Table of Contents

1. Repairs using hammers and dollies

Hammering methods using hammers and dollies are basically the same as for steel plate.

The hammers and dollies shown below are used for aluminum alloys which have a relatively high elongation.

NOTE:

• The hammer head is rounded so the surface will not be dented.

• The resistance of aluminum alloy panels to corrosion is reduced when solding is used to shape a panel. Also, since cracks sometimes form, soldering should not be performed.

There are two ways of using a dolly when hammering:

"Hammer off dolly" where the hammer and dolly are positioned askew, and "hammer on dolly" where the panel is sandwiched between the hammer and the dolly, and the hammer is used above the dolly.

• The "hammer off dolly" method with its minimal elongation and work-hardening is frequently used for aluminum alloys. It is used to hammer down surfaces.

NOTE: Be careful that the surface does not fall below the contour.

• Aluminum alloys react quickly to hammering with the "hammer on dolly" method, and elongation results. When this method is used, the surface must be tapped very lightly.

• The contact surfaces of the hammer and dolly must be kept clean and polished at all times so that the base metal is not

marked or scratched.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Skin Panel Area Shaping (cont'd)

Hammering

To shape a deformed panel, use a hammer and dolly to smooth out uneveness. As shown in the figures below, a first even out a large indentation close to the original shape.

Use this method to straighten sharp curves from inside. After the shape has been restored to line C Fig. 1, use the hammer carefully

to prevent panel elongation, then continue as shown in Fig. 2,3 and 4.

Drawing

As with steel plates, a gas torch can be used to apply heat, then draw the surface area to correct panel warp.

Aluminum alloy does not change color when heated, so it is important for the temperature to be controlled by applying thermopaint so that the panel does not melt.

NOTE: The kind of drawing hammer (serrated face) used for hammer finishing of steel plate, should not be used for aluminum alloy since it can cause cracking.

2. Paint film removal and cleaning

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Use an #80 to #120 sanding disc to remove the paint film. Hold the disc plate lightly against the surface to avoid inducing strain. Proceed with feather-edging over a wide area bordering on the old paint film.

-1. Grind down the old paint film using a #80 sandpaper pad over a wider area than the putty area.

-2. When using #120 sandpaper to smooth the sanding marks from the #80 paper, leave an edge measuring between 20 ~30 mm (0.8~1.2 in) and proceed with feather-edging.

-3. Use compressed air to blow away any dust, dirt or moisture on the putty surface. Remove any oil or grease with a wax

and grease remover.

• If it is raining or if the humidity is high, warm up the base metal using an infrared lamp or heater to remove the moisture.

• Similarly, warming up the base metal in cold weather (to about 68°F (20°C) also improves putty adhesion and speeds up the drying process.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Skin Panel Area Shaping (cont'd)

3. Finishing with putty

Unlike steel plate, putty cannot be applied directly to the bare surface of aluminum alloys. Apply an epoxy primer first, then add

the putty. Putty reduces the amount of work time involved in panel repair. With its excellent restorative properties and workability,

using putty is better than repairing a panel by hammering it or applying heat.

—

Puttying

The basic instructions for applying putty are: clean the surface of the panel to be repaired, do not allow air to enter the

putty, do not apply a thick layer at one time, and apply the putty to conform to the panel shape.

Main points in applying putty

• For flat surfaces, use a harder spatula; for gently curving surfaces, use a softer spatula; for sharply curving surfaces, use a flexible spatula made of rubber.

NOTE: Apply the putty from bottom to top, taking care not to reduce the height of the center area.

How to use a spatula:

How to use a spatula on curved areas:

— 2. Putty sanding

Main Menu

Table of Contents

There are three stages in putty sanding: roughing, leveling and border line flattening.

• Sand the putty in all directions.

• Always use an orbital sander or double-action sander.

• Operate a power-driven file by hand for finishing.

Sander motion:

SHORT ORBITAL SANDER

Movement of single-action sandpaper area:

LONG ORBITAL SANDER

Sanding a flat surface: Move in all directions over the surface of the putty.

DOUBLE-ACTION SANDER

HAND FILE

Sanding a sharply curved surface:

Move the sander smoothly to roll over the high-point of the

curved surface.

Movement of double-action sandpaper area:

Sanding a gently curved surface: Move the sander diagonally in a specific direction only.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Main Menu

Table of Contents

List of "Dos" and "Don'ts"

1. Sanding work

1) Don't use the same sanding tools or sandpaper for both aluminum alloy sheets and steel plates.

2) Do operate the sanding tool at a low speed; don't operate continuously as this heats the surface of the metal.

3) Don't use clogged sanding tools or sandpaper.

4) Do use a stainless steel wire brush; don't use an iron wire brush.

2. Welding work

1) Don't forget to clean and sand the weld zones.

2) Do check welding conditions using a test piece prior to welding: don't start welding body areas with out preparation.

3) Don't use electrode wire other than A5356WY.

4) Don't use shielding gas other than 100% argon gas.

5) Do keep electrode wire in airtight containers and store in a dry, constant

-temperature location; don't use wire that has been left around for a long time.

6) Don't use acetylene or oxygen gas welding or brazing.

3. Sheet metal work

1) In structural areas that have been damaged or buckled, do replace any parts with cracks; don't repair cracked parts after frame straightening.

2) Do repair buckled areas by heating them in controlled temperature, don't try to extend them when cold.

3) Don't clamp anything directly without protection.

4) Don't use a serrated face hammer.

5) Don't perform soldering (leading) shaping.

6) Don't forget to apply an epoxy primer before puttying.

4. Assembly work

1) Do use only the designated nuts and bolts; don't use any part which has not been coated with [DACRO] or [DACRO +

TORQUER] .

5. Inspection

1) Don't forget to check for cracks after frame straightening and after welding.

General Information

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Features

• Mid-engine car with ground-hugging, full-forward canopy design.

• The lower body is AH - PO for greater resistance to corrosion and collision damage.

• Outer panels, (except the roof) are constructed of individual panels to allow more convenient and economical repairs.

• In considerations of rigidity, surface smoothness and simultaneous body painting, the trunk lid spoiler is made of UP-G.

Straight-line front side-frame for excellent absorption of front impact energy.

Extruded-molded side sills with high strength and rigidity.

Lower part of center pillar is designed as flare-type and united solidly to main frame, thus greatly improving rigidity.

All main-frame parts are joined smoothly, providing high impact strength and improving high body rigidity.

Large cross-section rear frame to protect fuel tank in event of rear impact.

Rear fenders are detachable to make minor collision repairs easier.

NSX-T (open top):

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Reinforcement parts location.

Reinforcement parts.

General Information

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Composition

Types of aluminum alloys for pressings:

Rear bumper beam (#6000) Honda special

Fasteners used on Aluminum Bodies

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Main Menu

Table of Contents

The NSX/NSX-T (open top) is built mostly out of aluminum alloys. Be sure to observe the following points:

1. Special bolts and nuts are used in body and suspension areas. Never use any kind other than these special bolts and nuts. If other bolts or nuts are used, electrolysis may accelerate corrosion around tightening points, resulting in loosening of the joints. These special bolts and nuts can be identified by the gray plating on the heads or green coating on the threads.

2. Aluminum alloy parts are softer than conventional steel parts, so tightening torques must be strictly observed. A torque wrench must always be used on fasteners with designated torque values. Tightening by "feel" may result in

loosening of threads or damage to parts from excessive tightening.

3. Clean all thread ridges thoroughly before tightening, If tightening is performed with foreign materials on the threads, the threads may be damaged, resulting in faulty connections.

Construction

Main Menu

Table of Contents

ROOF RAILS

NSX-T (open top)

page 4-31

DASHBOARD UPPER

page 4-10

ROOF PANEL

page 4-31

REAR BULKHEAD CENTER

page 4-84

SIDE SILL

page 4-37

TRUNK FRONT PANEL

Page 4-80

REAR FLOOR

page 4-61

REAR PANEL

page 4-58

REAR FLOOR CROSS MEMBER

page 4-65

REAR SIDE FRAME

page 4-68

page 4-5

FRONT SIDE FRAME

page 4-14

FRONT FLOOR

page 4-46

SIDE PANEL

page 4-21FRONT BULKHEAD

FRONT FENDER

page 4-3

REAR FENDER

page 4-56

FRONT ASSEMBLY

page 4-50

REAR ASSEMBLY

page 4-89

Front Fender

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement

NOTE: Take particular care of clearance and level

difference with the hood, door panels and front bumper.

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front bumper

• Front side turn signal light

• Side sill panel

2. Mask parts with tape.

Stick masking tape on neighboring lower windshield and door to protect painted surfaces from damage.

3. Remove the inner fender.

4. Remove the front fender mounting bolts.

NOTE:

• Use the DACRO coated or DACRO & TORQUERcoated genuine Honda bolts and screws

(see page 3-4).

• Do not used any bolts which DACRO-coating has come off, as it results in corrosion.

CORROSION RESISTANT BOLT

Front Fender

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

5. Apply paint on the back of the new front fender. See Paint Repair section

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate

clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

NOTE: Apply paint to lower section of front pillar also.

6. Set the new front fender. Fasten to the front wheelhouse at two spots with bolts.

Close the hood and check the front and rear clearances,

door clearance and level differences.

7. Tighten fully.

• After checking the mounting position, tighten all bolts fully.

• Apply the mastic sealer to the mounting bolt positions.

NOTE: Judge proper amount of new sealer according

to thickness of old sealer on removed part.

8. Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Apply an undercoat to the inside of the front fender and upper face of the front wheelhouse.

9. Apply the paint See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate

clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

10. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

11. Check and adjust.

• Check wiring connections.

• Adjust the headlight aim.

Front Bulkhead

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

The front bulkhead is joined to the front wheelhouse and front side frame. It forms the base for the headlights and other parts and maintains the rigidity of the front section of the body. Pay particular attention to twists and parallelism and check mounting of

related parts when welding.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Front Bulkhead

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Front bumper Hood Right and left headlights Right and left front fenders Radiator Hood latch

2. Remove the bulkhead center stay, condenser and bumper stay brackets.

CORROSION RESISTANT BOLT

3. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Check the damage to the front wheelhouse and front side frame before removing the front bulkhead. Use the frame straightener to roughly pull out and repair the damaged bulkhead before removing the bulkhead.

• When the buckled section is large, heat up the damaged section with an acetylene welder and pull it

out.

• The aluminum alloy does not change much in color.

Use the thermo paint which color changes at 230'F (110°C) to check for the heating limit. Pull out the damaged section when the color of the

paint changes (see page 2-31).

NOTE: Check the fit of the door, taking care not to pull

the damaged area out more than necessary.

• Use the Honda underbody clamps and attach the car to the frame straightener at the clamping points securely.

Before fixing with the corrector, be sure to set a piece of aluminum plate at each clamp point to protect the car.

• After pulling, check the damper housing and side frame position using body dimensional drawing

(see section 6).

4. Keep the body, level.

• Jack up the body, and place safety stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety stand location points.

5. Drill the rivets of the bulkhead upper frame with a 5 mm (3/16") drill, then remove the bulkhead upper frame.

6. Remove the side front bulkhead, front side inner

Main Menu

Table of Contents

member and lower cross member.

• Strike a center punch around the spot weld imprints.

• Drill the spot welds of the side bulkhead using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down to the wheelhouse and front side frame themselves.

• Cut off the side bulkhead with an air chisel, leaving the welding flanges intact.

• When reusing the side front bulkhead, fill drilled holes by MIG welding.

• Level the weld beads with a belt sander.

• Grind the fillet welds of the lower cross memberand-side frame joint using a rotary cutter.

• Level and finish the burrs from the pried off spot welds with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glass whenever sanding, cutting or grind-

ing.

7. Mold the related parts.

• Use a hammer and dolly to mold the damaged areas of the front wheelhouse and side frame.

• Even out the welding flanges with a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

Front Bulkhead

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement

8. Set the new side front bulkhead, lower cross member and bulkhead upper frame.

• Drill the 8~10 mm (5/16"~3/8") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new side bulkhead.

• Grind both sides of the welding section of the bulk-

head with a sander to remove the undercoat from it. Grind and expose the aluminum alloy base.

• Before setting the bulkhead, clean the welding sec-

tion with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease

remover.

• Remove the paint film with a disc sander, etc.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grind-

ing.

• Clean the aluminum alloy base with a stainless steel wire brush just before welding.

• Use the grind stone, paper, and wire brush or alumi-

num plate only.

• Clamp both the right and left sides with the vise-

grips and pliers as shown.

9. Check the bulkhead position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

Measure the front compartment diagonally with a tracking gauge or convex tool as shown to check it for twisting or bending.

10. Drill 5 mm (3/16") holes through the bulkhead upper frame and side front bulkhead.

• Remove the bulkhead upper frame and sand the drill holes at bottom surface of it.

• Install the bulkhead upper frame.

• Make sure the bulkhead upper frame and side front bulkhead are contacted securely.

• Set the rivets.

11. For temporary welding, plug weld the clamped sec-

Main Menu

Table of Contents

tions.

• Check the welding section for cracks (see page 2-29).

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left bulkheads are in line with each other.

12. Temporarily assemble the hood, headlight and front fender, then check the clearances and level differences.

13. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Perform a trial welding first following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

• Before welding, remove the oxide film from the welding face using a stainless steel wire brush.

14. Finish the welds.

• Roughly grind the welds with a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding or grinding.

• Smooth the flanged section of the front bulkhead

with a hammer and dolly, and attach it closely to the front wheelhouse and front side frame.

• Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while

roughly grinding the welds.

• Take care not to grind excessively.

• Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If the

disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy parti-

cles, replace with a new disc.

15. Attach the front fender.

16. Lower the body. NOTE: Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

Torque: 110 Nm (11 kg-m, 80 Ib-ft)

• Fasten the bulkhead upper frame and side front bulkhead with a rivets.

17. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening

paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respi-

rator, gloves, eye protaction and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

18. Install the related parts.

19. Inspect, check, and make adjustments.

• Adjust the headlight aim. Check that the electrical components light up and operate properly.

• Replenish radiator liquids and inspect for leaks.

Dashboard Upper

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

The dashboard upper is the critical part where the windshield and steering parts are installed. Position the dash-

board upper properly and secure it by MIG welding.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Dashboard upper side extension (see page 4-21)

Dashboard Upper

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Wiper arm and wiper motor Windshield Right and left front fenders

Front pillar trim panel Door opening trim

Hood

Parts related to steering column

Dashboard, etc.

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• The collision damage may extend to the front pillar and roof panel (coupe) and roof rail (open top). Check for the damaged sections carefully and pull them out to reshape.

• Before pulling out the damaged sections, it might be

necessary to heat the sections with an acetylene torch (see page 2-31).

3. Remove the dashboard upper side extension.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds.

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the MIG fillet welds using a rotary cutter.

• Remove the dashboard upper side extension using a

chisel.

4. Remove the dashboard upper.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• Drill a punch in the center of the spot welds to the dashboard lower, front wheelhouse, and front

pillar.

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the MIG fillet welds using a rotary cutter.

• Remove the remaining welding flanges using a

chisel.

• Remove the burrs from the drilled flanges using a

disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

5. Mold the related parts.

• Reshape the welding flange of the dashboard lower with a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

Dashboard Upper

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

6. Set the new dashboard upper.

• Drill the 8—10 mm (5/16"~3/8") holes for plug welding in the welding flange of the new dashboard upper.

• Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the welding section and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury wear goggles or safety glass whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body, and clean oil contaminations with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

• Before setting the new dashboard upper remove the oxide film from the welding section of the replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

• Set the dashboard upper and clamp it with the vise-grips and pliers.

• Install the windshield and check for proper installation and alignment.

• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).

8. Remove the vise-grips and pliers and install the front fender, windshield and hood. Check for difference in level and clearance.

9. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

• Remove the oxide film from the welding sections using a stainless steel wire brush.

• The applicable welding methods are MIG welding, plug welding, and fillet welding.

• Check the welding sections for cracks (see page 2-29).

• NSX-T (open top): Keep the body level. Check the front roof rail and door opening position using the roof panel positioning jig recommended

(see page 4-23).

7. Tack weld the dashboard upper. Plug weld the clamped sections.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Weld the dashboard upper side extension.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

11. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the upper dashboard, pillars, etc.

12. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint con-

tains substances that are harmful if inhaled or

swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved res-

pirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

13. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the dashboard upper (see section 7).

14. Install the related parts.

• Install in the reverse order of removal.

• Check the front fender and hood for difference in level and clearance.

10. Finish the welding section.

• Roughly grind the welds with a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Smooth the mating surface with the front windshield with a hammer and dolly.

• Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds.

• Take care not to grind excessively.

• Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

15. Inspect and clean.

• Check the windshield for water leaks.

• After installing the dashboard, check the lights, gauges, etc. for proper operation.

• Clean the interior.

NSX-T (open top):

• Set the roof panel, then secure the roof panel by turning the roof side lock handles.

• Make sure the roof side locks are locked securely.

• Check for water leaks.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual (see section 20) for roof.

Front Side Frame

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

The front side frame is critical for the rigidity of the front compartment and front wheel alignment, as it is integrated with the front wheelhouse. During installation, position the front side frame by using the positioning jig (page 1-7) or to the dimension shown in the body dimensional drawings. Welding must be performed by using the aluminum alloy MIG welder.

Perform the trial welding first following the welder manufacturer's instructions, then weld properly. NOTE: Do not section frame rails except at manufacturers seams.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

NOTE: Replace the front side frame and wheelhouse as an assembly.

Dashboard upper side extension (see page 4-21)

NOTE: Side frame outer rear and dashboard lower cross member lower removed (see page 4-16).

Replacement

Main Menu

Table of Contents

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front suspension related parts

• Brake hoses and pipes

• Front compartment electrical components

• Fittings in passenger compartment, etc.

NOTE: With the front bulkhead upper frame and lower

cross member removed:

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and

the side sill side flanges.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual for safety stand location points.

• To protect the car body from damage, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps.

• Before cutting off the damaged sections, pull them out so that they are restored to the original shape.

• Removing the front side frame before roughly pulling

out the damage makes repair of the related front floor, dashboard lower, and other related parts difficult.

• It might be necessary to heat the damaged sections

with an acetylene torch before pulling them out (see page 2-31).

3. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower

dashboard, from floor and side sill with a gas torch and peel off with a metal spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the passenger compartment when heating.

4. Remove the dashboard upper side extension.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the wheelhouse.

• Drill the spot welds of the dashboard upper side extension using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the MIG weld (fillet weld) to the front pillar using a rotary cutter.

• After pulling, check the damper housing and side frame positions using the body dimensional draw-

ings (see section 6) and positioning jig.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Front Side Frame

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

5. Remove the side outer rear frame and dashboard lower cross member lower.

• Grind the filet welds of the side outer rear frame with a rotary cutter.

• Drill the spot welds of the dashboard lower cross member lower using a spot cutter.

• Remove the side outer rear frame and lower cross member lower using a chisel.

7. Remove the spot welds and fillet welds of the dashboard upper-and-damper housing.

6. Remove the spot welds and fillet welds of the dashboard lower-dashboard lower cross member extension upperextension upper with a spot cutter and rotary cutter.

8. Remove the front side frame.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• Strike a center punch around the spot weld imprints with the dashboard upper, dashboard lower and front floor.

• Drill the MIG welds (plug welding) using a 15 mm (5/8") spot cutter (hole saw type).

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the fillet welds of the side frame-and-side sill joint using a rotary cutter as shown.

• Peel off the welding flange using the chisel.

• Remove the burrs from the drilled sections with a disc grinder or disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Front Side Frame

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

9. Mold the related parts. Reshape the dashboard lower-and-front floor joint using a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks

(see page 2-29).

• Tighten the front side frame against the front floor and side sill using the vise-grips, pliers, etc.

• Place a jack under the front side frame end and support it, and measure the positions for temporary attachment.

• Clamp the bulkhead upper frame and lower cross

member

• Measure the front compartment diagonally and check the front side frame and damper base posi-

tions using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

10. Set the new front side frame.

• Drill the 10 mm (3/8") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new front side frame.

• Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the welding section and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean off any oil contaminations using a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

• Just before setting the front side frame, remove the oxide film from the welding surface of the

replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

NOTE: Use of positioning jig as shown is recommended (see page 1-7).

11. Tack weld the front side frame, the bulkhead upper frame and lower cross member.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

12. Measure the dimension, temporarily install the hood and fender, and check for difference in level and clearance.

13. Perform the main welding.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• Weld as much as possible with the jig still mounted.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

• Clean the welding section with a stainless steel wire brush before welding.

• The applicable welding methods in this step shall be the MIG welding, plug welding, and fillet weld-

ing.

• Check the welding section for cracks (see page 2-29).

RIVETS

(see page

4-5)

Front Side Frame

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

14. Install and weld the related parts.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Drill the 10 mm (3/8") holes in the dashboard lower cross member lower and plug weld.

• Set the side outer rear frame, clean the welding section with a stainless steel wire brush, and fillet weld.

15. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the dashboard lower, etc.

16. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

17. Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Undercoat the front floor, etc. and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side sill, front pillar, etc.

18. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

• Plug weld the dashboard upper side extension and wheelhouse by drilling the 10 mm (3/8") holes, and the fillet weld the front pillar.

• Check the welding sections for cracks

(see page 2-29).

19. Inspect, check and make adjustment.

• Measure the front wheel alignment.

• Inspect the brake system.

• Adjust the headlight aim.

Side Panel

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

The side panel is critical for proper installation of the roof, windshield, rear hatch hinge, and door hinge. It is connected to the side sill and constitutes the cabin side. Positioning of the windshield and rear hatch is affected by how they are connected to the side panel. Temporarily install the side panel, front fender, and rear hatch, and check for difference in level and clearance.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Side Panel

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram (cont'd)

NSX-T (open top):

NOTE: When connecting the side panel, refer to the dimensional drawings of the body and determine the precise position use of a roof panel positioning jig is recommended.

Dashboard upper side extension (see page 4-21}

See page

4-21

Replacement

Main Menu

Table of Contents

1. Remove the related parts:

• Door

• Door opening trim

• Carpet

• Door switch

• Seat belt

• Side sill panel

• Windshield

• Rear hatch assembly

• Rear window

• Headliner

• Front fender

• Rear fender

• Dashboard

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. NOTE: Make sure that the right and left pillars are

parallel to the windshield surface.

• Check the door and rear hatch for proper opening and closing.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill, and the side sill side flange.

• After pulling, check the door, windshield and rear window opening using the body dimensional draw-

ings (see section 6).

NSX-T (open top):

NOTE: Use of a roof panel positioning jig is recommend-

ed.

• Install the roof panel positioning jig as shown.

• Check for horizontal alignment of the jig with a water level.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual for safety sand location points.

• To protect the car body from damage, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and

tighten the clamps.

• Before removing the side panel, pull out the damaged sections so that they are restored to the original shape.

• Before pulling out the damaged sections, it might be necessary to heat them with an acetylene torch (see page 2-31).

Side panel

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

3. Remove the dashboard upper side extension.

4. Remove the side panel.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the roof side rail, front roof rail, rear roof rail and roof panel.

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

NSX-T (open top):

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the side panel and front roof rail.

• Grind the fillet welds of the side panel and roof panel skin joint using a rotary cutter.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the side panel and center pillar upper extension.

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to

Main Menu

Table of Contents

the front pillar, side sill, and rear pillar.

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the MIG welding section using a rotary cut-

ter.

• Remove the remaining welding flanges using a chisel.

• Remove the burrs from the drilled section using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

NSX-T (open top):

• Grind the MIG welds of the side panel and center pillar upper reinforcement.

Side Panel

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

5. Mold the related parts. Smooth the welding flanges of the roof panel, side sill and welding section of the rear side panel with a

hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

6. Set the new side panel.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• Drill the 8 mm (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new side panel.

• Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the

welding section and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear gog-

gles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or

grinding.

• Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contaminations with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

• Before setting the new side panel, remove the oxide film from the welding section of the replacement

part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

• Install the side panel and clamp it with the vise-grips, pliers, etc.

Coupe:

• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).

7. Tack weld the side panel.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Plug weld the clamped sections to temporarily install the side panel.

8. Remove the vise-grips and pliers and install the windshield, front fender, door, rear window, and rear fender. Check for difference in level and clearance.

NOTE: Check for flushness of the front fender, door,

and rear fender. Check for smooth body line of the car.

NSX-T (open top):

Remove the jig and install the front and rear lock receivers, then check the clearance and level differences of the roof panel and roof rails.

Side Panel

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

9. Perform main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

• Remove the oxide film from the welding section using a stainless steel wire brush.

Coupe:

• Weld the roof side rail and roof panel.

NSX-T (open top):

• Weld as much as possible with the jig still mounted.

• Weld the front roof rail.

• Weld the side panel and center pillar upper extension.

• Weld the dashboard upper cross member.

• Weld the side panel, side sill, front pillar inner lower

Main Menu

Table of Contents

and rear side panel.

• The applicable welding methods are MIG welding, plug welding, and fillet welding.

• Check the welding sections for cracks (see page 2-29).

Coupe:

10. Weld the dashboard upper side extension.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

11. Finish the welding areas.

• Roughly grind the welds with a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Smooth the flanged section of the door opening with a hammer and dolly.

• Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds.

• Take care not to grind excessively.

• Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy particles, replace with a new disc.

Side Panel

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

12. Apply the sealer (see section 5).

13. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or

swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

14. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the side panel (see section 7).

15. Install the related parts.

• Install in the reverse order of removal.

• Check the door for proper installation and difference in level from the fenders.

16. Clean and check

• After installing the dashboard, check the lights, gauges, etc. for proper operation.

• Clean the passenger compartment and check for

water leaks from the roof.

NSX-T (open top):

• Set the roof panel, then secure the roof panel by turning the roof side lock handles.

• Make sure the roof side locks are locked securely.

• Check for water leaks.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual (see section 20) for roof.

Roof Panel (Coupe)

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Roof Rails [NSX-T (open top)]

Description

Deformation of the roof panel is highly noticeable in terms of the vehicle's outer appearance. Before replacing the roof rail, make sure that the body is horizontal. Before welding the roof panel, adjust the roof rail flanges so that they contact the roof panel.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Description

Deformation of the roof rail harms the appearance of the car and attracts attention. The roof rails are critical for installation of the roof panel fixing lock receiver. Install the roof rails

in proper position checking the proper mating with the roof panel and the parallelism of each pillar. When installing the rear roof rail, check for clearance between the roof rail and the rear window glass and check for parallelism of the rail.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Roof Panel/Roof Rails

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Windshield

• Rear hatch

• Rear window

• Sunvisors

• Ceiling light

• Headliner

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Pull out the damaged area with the frame straightener before removing the roof panel.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and

the side sill side flanges.

• To protect the car body from damage, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps.

• Before pulling out the damaged section, it might be necessary to heat the section with an acetylene

torch (see page 2-31).

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left pillars are parallel with the windshield surface. Check the door and rear hatch for proper opening and closing.

4. Remove the roof panel or roof rails.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds in the roof panel flange or roof rails.

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the MIG fillet welds using a rotary cutter.

• Remove the welding flange using a chisel.

Coupe:

• After pulling, check the front and center pillar position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

3. Keep the body level. Jack up the body at the front and back and place safety

stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual for safety stand location points.

• MIG weld positions (Roof side rail inside).

• Cross section of roof rail.

NSX-T (open top):

Main Menu

Table of Contents

5. Mold the related parts. Smooth the welding flange of the roof sides rail or inner pillars with a hammer and dolly so that there is no clearance to the welding flange of the roof panel or roof

rails.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

Coupe:

NSX-T (open top):

Roof Panel/Roof Rails

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

Check the front and rear lock receiver mounting posi-

tions.

NOTE: Use of a roof panel positioning jig is recommended.

• Install the roof panel positioning jig as shown.

• Check for horizontal of alignment of the jig with a water level.

7. Set the new roof panel or new roof rails.

• Drill the 8 mm (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new roof panel or new roof rails.

• Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the

welding section and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contaminations with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

• Before setting the new roof panel or new roof rails,

remove the oxide film form the welding section of the replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

Coupe:

• Install the new roof panel and clamp it with the visegrips and pliers.

• Check the welding flange for close fitting. Check the roof panel for distortion and proper installation, and check over the body dimensions (see section 6).

6. Apply paint to the underside of the new roof panel or new roof rails. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled

or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

NSX-T (open top):

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Install the new roof rails as shown.

8. Tack weld the roof panel or roof rails.

9. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

• Remove the oxide film from the welding sections

using a stainless steel wire brush.

• The applicable welding methods are MIG welding, plug welding, and fillet welding.

• Check the welding sections for cracks (see page 2-29).

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

• MIG/plug weld the clamped sections to temporarily install the roof panel or roof rails.

• Set the windshield and rear window, and check the roof panel for proper installation.

• Install the rear hatch, then adjust the level difference

and

fit.

NSX-T (open top):

Remove the jig and install the front and rear lock receivers, then check the clearance and level differences of the roof panel and roof rails.

Roof Panel/Roof Rails

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

NSX-T (open top):

To prevent eye injury, wear gog-

gles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or

grinding.

• Smooth the windshield and roof side flanges with a hammer and dolly.

• Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds.

• Take care not to grind excessively.

• Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

11. Apply the sealer (see section 5).

12. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropri-

ate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

10. Finish the welding area.

• Roughly grind the welds using a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

13. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the roof side rail.

14. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order of removal.

15. Check and clean.

• Check the windshield and rear window for water leaks.

• Check the ceiling light for lighting.

• Clean the passenger compartment thoroughly.

NSX-T (open top):

• Set the roof panel, then secure the roof panel by turning the roof side lock handles.

• Adjust the roof panel for a flush fit with the roof rail.

• Make sure the roof side locks are locked securely.

• Check for water leaks.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual (see section 20) for roof.

Side Sill

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

The side sill is critical for the rigidity of the body base and proper door installation. During replacement, refer to the body

dimensional drawings and determine the position to set the side sill properly. Weld securely following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Coupe:

NOTE: Side panel removed (see page 4-21).

Side Sill

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Mass Production Body Welding

Diagram (cont'd)

NSX-T (open top):

NOTE:

• The welding diagram of the front area is the same as the table on page 4-37.

• Side panel removed (see page 4-22).

Side Sill

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front and rear fenders

• Door

• Side sill panel

• Rear pillar panel

• Door opening trim

• Carpet

• Driver's & passenger's seats

• Seat belt

• Fuel tank, fuel fill pipe (left side only)

• NSX-T(open top):Windshield and rear window

Do not smoke while working near the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an approved container.

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and the side sill side flanges.

• To protect the car body from damage, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps.

• The collision damage may extend to the front floor, front pillar, etc. Check for the damaged sections carefully and pull them out with the frame straightener to reshape.

• Before pulling out the damaged sections, it might be necessary to heat the sections with an acetylene

torch (see page 2-31).

3. Peel off the undercoat.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the front floor,

side outer rear frame and dashboard lower cross

member lower with a gas torch and peel off a metal spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the finings inside the passenger compartment when heating.

4. Remove the side outer rear frame and dashboard lower cross member lower.

6. Remove the side panel.

• If necessary, replace the dashboard upper side extension (see page 4-21).

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds in side panel and drill the spot welds using a 8 mm (5/16") spot cutter.

Coupe:

• Cut the side panel as shown and remove them.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the inner section.

5. Drill the rear frame lower extension and remove it.

• Grind the fillet weld of the side sill, inner lower pillar and front side frame joints using a rotary cutter.

Side Sill

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

• Grind the fillet weld of the side sill and rear side frame joint using a rotary cutter.

NSX-T (open top):

• Remove the side panel (see page 4-22).

NOTE: Use a roof panel positioning jig is recommended.

• Remove the center pillar lower reinforcement using a rotary cutter.

• Grind the fillet weld of the side sill, front inner lower pillar, front side frame joints using a rotary cutter.

• Install the roof panel positioning jig as shown.

7. Remove the side sill.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds in the side sill, front floor, front side frame, and rear side frame.

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter and plug weld using a 15 mm (5/8") spot cutter (hole

saw type).

• Grind the fillet weld of the side sill/front and rear side frames joint using a rotary cutter.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

9. Set the new side sill.

• Remove the undercoat from the welding sections of the side sill and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Remove the undercoat and paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contaminations with shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

• Before setting the side sill, remove the oxide film from the welding section of the replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

NOTE: Keep the body level.

• Clamp the new side sill in place with screw clamps.

8. Mold the related parts.

• Remove the welding flanges using a chisel.

• Correct the front floor and inner pillar using a hammer and dolly.

• Remove the burrs from the spot welds and MIG

welds using a disc sander.

gles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

10. Tack weld the side sill at the clamp positions.

To prevent eye injury, wear gog-

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

NOTE: Check the front and rear side frames positions

using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

Side Sill

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

11. Set the new side panel

• Clamp the side panel in place with vise-grips.

• Temporarily mount the front fender, door, and rear fender.

NOTE: Check the body dimensions (see section 6).

Coupe:

• Remove the upper stiffener and lower stiffener form the new side panel.

• Cut the new upper and lower stiffeners so it overlaps the body side stiffeners by approximately by more than 15 mm (0.6 in).

• Align the new side panel with the top cut section, then cut it with a handsaw.

NSX-T (open top):

• Remove the new side panel.

12. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

• Remove the oxide film from the welding sections using a stainless steel wire brush.

• The applicable welding methods are the MIG

welding, plug welding, or fillet welding.

• Check the welding sections for cracks (see page 2-29).

• Weld the floor.

• Weld the side sill rear and front.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

NSX-T (open top):

• Weld the new center pillar lower reinforcement.

Side Sill

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

13. Weld the new side panel (see page 4-21).

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Drill the 8 mm (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new side panel.

• Remove the undercoat from the welding sections of the side panel and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

• Before welding, remove the oxide film from the welding section using a stainless steel wire brush.

Coupe:

• Plug weld the new upper stiffener and new lower stiffener.

• Attach a tab to the butt welding section as shown and weld.

• Preheating effect can be obtained by attaching a

tab to the butt welding section.

Plug weld the lower stiffener and upper stiffener (4 points).

Plug weld the outer panel and lower stiffener (4 points).

NSX-T (open top):

14. Weld the related parts.

Main Menu

Table of Contents

• Weld the dashboard lower cross member lower and side outer rear frame by MIG welding, plug welding,

or fillet welding.

• Weld the rear side frame lower extension.

• Finish the butt weld by removing the tab.

• Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds.

• Take care not to grind excessively.

• Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

• Finish the butt welded door opening of the outer

panel with a disc sander and putty.

16. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the side sill, front floor, dashboard

lower, and side panel.

17. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropri-

ate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

•

Weld the dashboard upper side extension

(see page 4-13).

15. Finish the welding area.

• Roughly grind the welds with a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

18. Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Undercoat the front floor, etc. and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side sill, front and center pillars, etc.

19. Install the related parts.

• Install in the reverse order of removal.

• Adjust the door striker and check the door lock operation.

20. Check and clean.

• Check the electrical parts for proper operation.

• Clean the passenger compartment.

NSX-T (open top):

• Set the roof panel, then secure the roof panel by turning the roof side lock handles.

• Make sure the roof side locks are locked securely.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual (see

section 20) for roof.

Front Floor

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

The front floor is the critical part that connects the right and left and front and rear of the cabin and where the driver and passenger

ride. During replacement, weld securely following the welder manufacuturer's instructions.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Replacement

Main Menu

Table of Contents

1. Remove the related parts.

• Driver's and passenger's seat

• Carpet

• Hand brake assembly

NOTE: With a side sill removed (one side).

Do not smoke while working near

the fuel

system. system.

lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an approved container.

2. Remove the front floor.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the

• Drill the spot welds using a 10 mm (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the MIG/fillet welds using a rotary cutter.

safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Remove the spot welds and fillet welds using a

• Do not drill through the side sill.

• Smooth the welding sections of the dashboard

NOTE: Check the reshape parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or

dashboard lower and rear bulkhead center.

chisel.

lower and rear bulkhead with a hammer and dolly.

Keep open

To prevent injury, wear goggles or

flame

away

from

the fuel

3. Set the new front floor.

• Drill the 8 mm (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new front floor.

• Remove the undercoat from the welding section of the front floor and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Hear the undercoat at the bottom of the body using a gas torch, and remove it thoroughly with a knife.

• Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body using a disc sander and clean oil contami-

nations with a shop towel soaked with a wax and grease remover.

• Before setting the new front floor, clean the welding sections of the front floor and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

Front Floor

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Replacement (cont'd)

• Clamp the new front floor, side sill, dashboard lower, and rear bulkhead center with screw clamps.

• Weld the clamped sections for temporary installation.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

4. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

• Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

• Remove the oxide film from the welding sections

using a stainless steel wire brush.

• The applicable welding methods are MIG/plug welding or fillet welding.

• Check the welding sections for cracks

(see page 2-29).

5. Finish the welding area.

• Roughly grind the welds using a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

• Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds.

• Take care not to grind excessively.

• Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If

the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy particles, replace with a new disc.

6. Apply the sealer (see section 7).

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Apply sealer to the mating surface with the front floor.

7. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before open-

ing paint container.

• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropri-

ate clothing when painting.

• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

8. Apply the undercoat (see section 5). Undercoat the front floor, etc. and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side sill,

side frame and dashboard lower.

9. Install the related parts .

10. Check and clean.

• Check the seats for movement.

• Perform the brake test.

• Clean the passenger compartment.

Front Assembly

Main Menu

Table of Contents

Description

The front assembly is critical for the rigidity of the front compartment and front wheel alignment, as it is integrated with the front wheelhouse. During installation, the dimension shown in the body dimensional drawings. Welding must be performed by using

the aluminum alloy MIG welder. Perform the trial welding first following the welder manufacturer's instructions, then weld properly. NOTE: Do not section frame rails except at manufacturers seams.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Replacement

Main Menu

Table of Contents

1. Remove the related parts.

• Front suspension related parts

• Brake hoses and pipes

• Front compartment electrical components

• Fittings in passenger compartment, etc.

• Windshield

• Steering column

• Windshield

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and

the side sill side flanges.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX/NSX-T Service Manual for safety stand location points.

• To protect the car body from damage, place a piece

of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps.

• Before cutting off the damaged sections, pull them

out so that they are restored to the original shape.

• Cutting off front assembly before roughly pulling

out the damage makes repair of the related front floor, front pillar, and other related parts difficult.

• It might be necessary to heat the damaged sections with an acetylene torch before pulling them out

(see page 2-31).

NSX-T (open top):

NOTE: Use of a roof panel positioning jig is recommend-

• Install the roof panel positioning jig as shown.

• Check for horizontal alignment of the jig with a water level.

3. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower dashboard, front floor and side sill with a gas torch and peel off with a metal spatula.

NOTE: Pull out until the pillar is lined up with the surface of the windshield.

• After pulling, check the damper housing and the side frame positions using the body dimensional draw-

ings (see section 6).

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the passenger compartment when heating.

4. Remove the dashboard upper side extension on each side.

Acura NSX 1995 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual