Acura NSX 1994, NSX 1993, NSX 1992, NSX 1991 User Manual

Preparation of Work

Description

• Most monocoque bodies are composed as a single unit by welding together pressed parts made of steel plates which come in a variety of different shapes and sizes. Each part is responsible for displaying a certain strength and durability in order that it may play its role in meeting the functions of the body as a whole.

• The NSX has an all aluminum monocoque body made of the aluminum alloy. Generally speaking, the collision damage of the aluminum alloy body is not very different from that of the steel plate body.

Damage to the exterior of the body can be inspected visually, but where there has been an external impact, it is necessary to inspect the extent of the damage. In some cases, the deformation has spread beyond the actual areas which were in the collision and so this has to be inspected closely.

1175

(46.3 in.)

Camber

Caster

Toe

Wheel t u r n i n g angle

Front wheel alignment:

-0°

2 0 ' ± 3 0 '

8 °

00' ± 4 5 '

Out 3.5 ± 1 mm

Out

(0.14 ± 0 . 04

33°06' ± 2 °

26°34'

in)

Camber

Toe

Rear wheel alignment:

-1°30'±30'

4.0±1 mm (0.16±0

04 in)

Checkpoints

• Accurate Inspection of Damaged Parts (Visual)

Seat Belts Always replace the seat belt if:

1. The belt material is cut, punctured, burned or in any way damaged.

2. The buckle or retractor does not work properly.

3. They were being worn at the time of a collision (also check for damage at the seat belt anchor points).

4. Their condition is questionable.

Front Section:

1. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?

2. Is there any deformation of the front bulkhead or radiator core? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

3. Are there any creases or distortion in the front wheelhouse or side frame? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

4. Is there any bending or twisting of the whole front area?

5. Is there any deformation like creases, bulges, or dents in the front pillar, dashboard, floor, etc.?

6. Is there any vertical twisting or misaligned clearance in the door?

7. Is the windshield seal broken?

8. Is there any deformation in the top part of the center pillar?

9. Is there any damage inside the automobile (is there any twisting of the dashboard, or anything irregular with the clearances or sheet-mounting parts) ?

10. Is

there

any

damage

Rear Section:

1. Is there any twisting, bulging or denting of the rear floor and rear bolsters? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

2. Is there any irregular bulging or denting in the rear fender?

3. Is there any distortion in the rear inner panel? Is there any bending and denting in the vicinity of the rear pillar?

4. Is there any distortion or creasing in the rear wheelhouse and arch sections? Have any of th e connected sections come apart?

5. Is there anything irregular in the rear glass seal clearance?

6. Is there any twisting or misalignment of the clearance of the trunk lid opening section?

7. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?

8. Is there any deformation oh the rear floor cross member, trunk front panel and damper base? Have any of the connected sections come apart?

9. Is there any oil or water leakage and damage to the engine, transmission or brakes?

10. Is there any irregular noise in the gear changing operation, engine and transmission rotation?

11. Are there any traces of contact between the engine block and the center cross member?

12. Is there any damage to brake or fuel lines, or wire harnesses?

to the

steering

wheel

? Is

there

any

deformation

in the

column

and the

column-mounted parts

Preparation of Work

Correction of the Damaged Area

Set the frame corrector on the car body.

The side sill is flangeless to allow reshaping by pulling it out.

Use the horizontal pinch welds for anchoring the car.

UNDERBODY CLAMPS

Underbody Clamp Specifications:

UNDERBODY CLAMP (Recommended)

Clamp Number

AT-68

ATTACHMENT

Standard type:

C - type

U - type:

Clamp body Side clamp Under clamp

AT-68-AL

AT-68-C

Inside diameter

65 mm

(2.6

in)

AT-68-U

Frame correctors

Dataliner

Car-o-liner

Korek

Auto pole

etc.

U-Base

Celette

Flex-o-liner

etc.

Inside diameter

20 mm

(0.8

in)

Pro-Tec

etc.

1. Apply load to the damage section and pull it out until the section is almost restored to the original shape.

2. Check that the parts of the body they cover have been more or less restored to their original shapes.

5. Decide whether to cut the weld joint parts and replace partially, or whether to replace all the parts. NOTE: Welded parts that can be partially cut and replaced are restricted to those listed in this manual (see

section 4).

NOTE: As work-hardening occurs to the buckled section of the aluminum alloy, it can crack easily. Heat up the damaged section with an acetylene welder and pull it out to

reshape 1184°F (640°C) is the melting point of the alumi-

num alloy. Take care not to overheat it. Watch the heating temperature using a thermopaint, or heat crayon (see page

2-31).

THERMOPAINT

25 mm

(1.0

in)

10 mm

(0.4

in)

6. Cut off and separate the damaged parts. NOTE: When cutting the parts off, take special care

that you do not damage adjacent parts on the automobile.

7. Mold the related parts.

8. Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page 2-29).

9. Set and tack weld the replacement parts.

NOTE: Temporarily mount the related parts and check

the clearance a nd level differen ces.

10. Weld the replacement parts.

Welding methods (see section 2).

NOTE: Use of th e positioning jig is recommended.

11. Check the welding sections for cracks (see page 2-29).

NOTE: The paint film, which is designed to prevent corrosion caused by moisture, is destroyed around the edges of the locations that have been repaired by

welding. Therefore, in such places and especially in those areas that are not visible, apply another coat of the paint;

refer to the anti-corrosion painting manual. This operation is designed to maintain durability and quality (see

section 7).

3. Check the original position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) and the positioning jigs (see

page 1-7).

4. Remove the parts that require replacement.

Preparation of Work

Measurement (Excluding Small Damage)

Whenever possible, make judgements and conclusions based on measurement. Measure the wheel alignment (see page 1-2) to prevent any future trouble like unsymmetrical wear of the tires or catching of the steering wheel.

If there are any deviations, use a tram tracking gauge and measure parts of the body.

POINTER C H O L D E R

REFERENCE S C A L E

ADJUST S C R E W A

POINTER A

If there is any twisting to the body, measure using a frame centering gauge.

Pointer B - short pointer (height adjustment 15 - 290 mm (0.6-1 1.4 in))

- long pointer (height adjustment 185 - 450 mm (7.3 - 17.7 in))

SET R I N G

EXPANDING/CONTRACTING S C A L E

POINTER C

POINTER 4

POINTER B

CLIP

HEIGHT

When measuring body dimensions, use a universal tram gauge.

FRAME

Move within a range of 250 - 1,570 mm (9.8 - 61.8 in)

FRAME

SET SCREW

Positioning J i g ( R ec om m en d ed )

No.

Jig Number

HJ-16-01 HJ-16-02

Description

Front under frame positioning jig Rear under frame positioning jig

Page Reference

4-14 4-53,

57, 60

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Safety Precautions

Precautions f or Ensuring Safet y:

1. Although aluminum is non-toxic, it is lightweight, so fine particles of metal given off by sanding operations tend to float in the air. It is therefore vital that operators protect their lungs and eyes from this dust.

2. Small pieces of aluminum alloy are spattered by MIG welding can be projected over considerable distances. It is therefore important to provide protection not only for the welders operators themselves, but also for the surrounding areas.

3. The sparks generated from the arc during inert gas are welding are very bright and may hurt the eyes if viewed directly. A protective shield for the eyes must therefore be worn at all times when welding.

Use of protective gear to ensure safety:

Work overalls with long sleeves, a cap, and safety shoes must be worn at all times. Depending on the job to be done, protective

goggles, gloves, ear plugs, and a dust-proof mask should also be worn (see page 2-7).

CAUTION:

• When aluminum alloys are heated, they melt without changing color.

Melting temperature

Aluminum alloys: Approx. 1184°F (640°C) (depends on alloy) Steel plate: Approx. 2732°F (1500°C)

• Aluminum alloys can be repaired in virtually the same way as steel sheets, but it is important to have a good grasp of their properties and be thoroughly familiar with their limitations.

• Aluminum alloys tend to overheat during sanding. When they overheat, the metal tends to flake and clog the filing surface of the sanding tool. If a tool with a clogged surface is used, it wi ll leave sc ratch es and marks on th e base metal.

Welding Methods

1. MIG (metal inert gas arc) welding

This type of welding uses consumable electrodes, with electrode wire serving as the electrode. Inert gas is passed through the to rch and welding takes place when an arc is formed between the electrode wir e and the base metal. The electrode wire is supplied automatically.

Although it is dependent on the proficiency of the welder himself, the minimum thickness of weldable aluminum alloy sheets has been 1.6 mm (0.06 in). In most cases the sheets used have been over 3 mm (0.1 in) thick. More recently, welders have

been developed for handling sheets with a thickness of 1 mm (0.04 in) or less.

2. TIG (tungsten inert gas arc) welding

This type of welding uses non-consumable electrodes, with tungsten rods serving as the electrodes. Inert gas is passed through the torch, an arc is formed between the electrode and the base metal, and welding takes place when the heat from the arc melts the base metal and hand-held welding rod. The minimum thickness of aluminum alloy sheets which can be welded is about 0.6 mm (0.02 in), although this method is not suited to heat-treated alloys because there are many thermal effects.

3. Carbon dioxide gas arc welding (metal active gas arc welding)

In place of th e high-cost inert ga s, carbon dioxide gas o r c ar bon dioxide gas mixed with argon gas is e mplo yed as t he shielding gas in the metal active gas arc welders often used today in body s hops. Carbon dioxide gas is not an inert gas in the full sense of the term so these welders are known by the acronym of "MAG" (metal active gas), rather than "MIG."

4. Gas (oxygen, acetylene) welding

Welding or brazing work must not be undertaken using these gases. Since it is hard to concentrate the heat at the welding point, the thermal effects extend to the surrounding area and the strength of the aluminum alloy is reduced. Neither must gas welding be used for brazing since joint strength is too low.

NOTE: Gas welders are used for heating work when aluminum alloys are shaped. (It is necessary to control the upper limit

temperature.)

5. Spot welding

Aluminum alloys cannot be welded using the conventional spot welders which are used in body shops.

The capabilities of spot welders for steel plate are not sufficient for aluminum alloys which have high thermal conductivity.

No matter how long the welding current is allowed to run, the heat escapes to the surrounding areas and the base metal does no.t melt, making welding impossible. It requires a very high current of several tens of thousands of amperes and high pressure to spot-weld an aluminum alloy.

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Welding Methods (cont'd)

Comparison of spot welding for aluminum alloys and steel plate (one example)

Material

Steel sheeting

Aluminum alloy

NOTE:

• Welding conditions may induce changes in the spot welding current given in the comparison above.

• See page 2-10 for the re-bonding procedure applied when spot-welds on an aluminum alloy body are repaired. MIG welding is used.

• A person proficient at carbon dioxide gas arc welding who has an adequate understanding of the properties of aluminum alloys

will be able to master the technique after practicing for a short while. Practice is important for increasing one's competence.

CAUTION:

• Aluminum alloys melt without changing color when heated.

• It is difficult to judge the melting point when an alloy is heated.

Thickness

1.2 mm

(0.05

in)

Current ( A)

Approx.

9 3 0 0

2 6 , 0 0 0

• Aluminum alloys have a coefficient of thermal expansion which is approximately double that of steel plate and a coefficient of contraction during solidification which is approximately 1.5 times higher. They are therefore subject

to strain more easily and welding cracks (bead cracks and crater cracks) develop.

• Cleaning the welding location greatly affects results. Although the oxide film is destroyed by the cleaning action, it is important for all dirt to be removed, along with any

oil and grease, prior to the welding.

• Tools used for welding aluminum alloys must be kept completely separate from those used for steel plate.

• Use a stainless steel wire brush.

• Use sanding tools which have been reserved especially for use only with aluminum alloys. If the same tools are used for steel plate as w el l, iron deposits will remain on the surface of the aluminum alloy and contaminate welds.)

• Inert gas arc welding is a gas-shielded method and is therefore unfit for working in areas exposed to wind or

breezes. It is important that the flow of the inert gas is not disturbed.

Welders

Performance of Welders:

1. Output current: Approx. 200 A at maximum output

2. Electrode wire diameter: Approx. 0.8~1.2 mm (0.031 (A5356WY) ~0.05 in)

3. Shielding Gas: 100% Argon

• It is an added convenience if the welder can be set to seam, stitch and spot modes.

• A welder which can be used for both aluminum alloy MIG welding and steel plate carbon dioxide gas arc welding simply by changing some parts is economical and ef fi cie nt .

NOTE: Follow the manufacturers' instruction.

REGULATOR

CONTACT TIP

Conditions:

Material thickness unit: mm (i n)

1.6 (0.06)

2.0 (0.08)

2.5

(0.1)

3.0 (0.12)

5.0

(0.2)

ELECTRODE

WIRE

Electrode wire diameter unit: mm (in)

0.8 (0.031)

0.9~1.0 (0.035~0.04)

0.9~1.2 (0.035~0.05)

WELDER

Electrode wire speed (A)

50~70

60~110

80~120

100~140

120~170

GUN

(Torch)

Welding voltage (V)

10.0~11.0

12.0~15.0

13.0~16.0

15.0~18.0

17.0~20.0

Volume 100% argon (L/min)

15.0

17.0

20.0

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Filler Metals

When "filler metal" is mentioned in this text, it refers to welding rods for TIG welding and to electrode wire for MIG welding.

The selection of the filler metal affects the following items relating to the state of the welded joints:

a) Flaws in joints (bead cracks)

b) Strength of joints

c) Toughness of joints (tenacity)

d) Resistance of joints to corrosion

[A5356WY] is the filler metal best suited to aluminum alloys in the 5000 and 6000 series which are used for HONDA

aluminum alloy bodies.

Filler metal storage

Proper storage of filler metals is important for best welding results.

NOTE:

• Store filler metals where they will not become dirty or scratched and where they will be free from contact with oils and greases.

• Use clean gloves when handling filler metals. Seal them in airtight vinyl bags, and store at a constant temperature in a location where they

• Take steps to ensure that the seal cover is not opened until actual use.

will

be dry at all

times. Before sealing

the

electrode wire,

make

sure that

it is

wound properly

on its

spool.

Examples of Repair Tools

Item

Protective equipment

Work

Operator protection 1. Protective goggles 7. Protective apron

2. Cap 8. Welding gloves

3. Earplug 9. Foot protectors

4. Shield for eyes 10. Safety shoes

5. Overalls with long sleeves 11. Work gloves

6. Dust-proof mask 12. Spattering guard

Tools, equipment used

Processing tools

Vehicle body protection

Edge preparation

Heat-resistant

protective cover

SANDPAPER FILES

(cont'd)

Aluminum A l l o y Re pa ir

Examples of Repair Tools (cont'd)

item

Processing t oo l s

Sanding tools

Fixing tools

Work Tools, equipment used

Plug hole drilling

Cleaning

Finishing

Base metal fixing

DRILLING BLADE, DRILL, SPOT CUTTER

ROTARY CUTTER

STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRUS H

DISC SA NDE R

Disc grinder. Disc sander. Belt sander. Sandpaper.

VISE-GRIPS

PUNCH

SANDPAPER

BELT SANDER

SCREW CLAMP SQUILL VISES

Skin panel shapingShaping tools

NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush and sanding tools reserved especially for aluminum alloys. Do not use the same tools

for steel sheet.

HAMMERS DOLLIES/CHISELS

2-8

Grain size for sanding/processing tools and jobs performed.

Tool

Disc grinder

Disc sander

Belt sander

Stainless steel wire brush

NOTE:

• Use a low-speed disc grinder or disc sander.

• If a low-speed air-powered disc grinder is not available, attach an air control valve to reduce grinder speed.

• A double-action sander may also be used.

Cleaning-oxide film removal:

Clean the welding locations throughly (both front and back surfaces).

• Use a wax and grease remover to clean off any dirt, oil or grease.

Disc paper grain size

A36P (grindstone for grinder)

#80~#120 (sanding disc)

#80 or above

• Roughing of weld reinforcement areas.

• Roughing of V-shaped edge preparation.

• Roughing of paint film.

• Sanding of aluminum alloy surface (oxide film)

• Finishing of weld reinforcement areas.

• Finishing of V-shaped edge preparation.

• Sanding of narrow areas.

• Sanding of aluminum alloy surface (oxide film)

Job

• Use a disc sander and stainless steel wire brush to remove paint and oxide films. Use a #80 sanding disc.

NOTE: Do not allow the sanding disc of the disc sander to become clogged. If the disc sander is pressed excessively hard, it will overheat due to friction and the aluminum alloy will tend to peel off, clogging the disc. The alloy surface will be scraped

and scored if a clogged disc is used.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

MIG Welding Conditions

MIG welding can be performed under virtually the same conditions as for the carbon dioxide gas arc welding of steel plate

mentioned previously. The differences are outlined below.

The factors w hich affect deposition at the welding location and serve as the weldi ng conditions fo r carbon dioxide gas arc welding

of steel plates are:

Welding current. Welding voltage (automatically adjusted for HTP MAXI MIG),

Electrode wire speed, Distance between contact tip and base metal, Gun angle. Gun feed speed.

Volume of shielding gas.

NOTE:

Distance between contact

tip and

NOZZLE

base

metal: 8~15

(0.3~0.6

in).

CONTACT TIP

Distance between contact tip and base metal.

ARC

Arc g e n e r a t i o n

As with steel-plate welding, an arc is generated and welding starts once the torch switch is thrown.

• Welding startup is impaired if the electrode wire extends too far out or if the end is spherical. In such cases, cut off the end of the wire with a pair of wire cutters.

Length of wire extension.

ELECTRODE WIRE

CAUTION:

• The torch switch must not be thrown with the electrode wire in contact with the base metal.

• When cutting the end of the electrode wire, point the torch downward and cut near ground level to

protect the eyes from the cut end.

Sound of arc when welding under proper conditions:

With aluminum alloy MIG welding, there is a quiet and continuous humming sound similar to that heard during carbon dioxide gas a r c we l di n g.

A small amount of soot is formed along the bead during MIG welding. This is caused by magnesium contained in the electrode

wires.

1. Differences in welding conditions

When comparing the welding of aluminum alloys and steel plate using the same welder, the thickness range of plates whic h can be welded is less for aluminum alloys. In other words, the welder setting conditions must be adjusted more finely for welding aluminum alloys.

-1. We ldin g current, electrode wire speed Under the same welding current conditions, the electrode wire for aluminum alloys needs to be fed faster than that for steel plates.

-2. Distance between contact tip and base metal As for

steel plate

positioning the gun closer to the surface.

-3. Gun angle

The gun is held perpendicular to the welding surface. It is t ilt ed at a 5~15° angle in the direction of the welding advance. Compared with steel plate welding, the gun angle is slightly more vertical.

welding,

the

distance

ranges

from 8~15

(0.3~0.6

in).

The gas

shielding

effect

enhanced

-4. Direction of gun advance

Either a straight s equence o r back -step can be used wh en fo r we ld in g steel sh eets. With aluminum alloys, however, only the forehand welding method is used.

5°~15°

Direction of advance

-5. Gun travel speed

Welding of aluminum alloys progresses at a much faster rate than for steel plate. The speed increases as the welding progresses.

-6. Volume of shielding gas

About 50% more gas is required than for steel sheet welding.

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

MIG Welding Conditions (cont'd)

2. Nozzle and contact tip

Compared with the carbon dioxide arc welding of steel plates, spattering adheres more readily at the end of the nozzle and the contact tip.

Adhesion of spattering can be reduced by using an anti-spatter compound. This makes it easier to remove spatter as well.

The nozzle and contact tip are subjected to greater wear than with steel plate welding.

3. Electrode wire setting

Since the cable inner liner is made of teflon, be sure not to mark or scratch it.

Use sandpaper to smooth the edge of the end of the electrode wire before feeding it through by hand.

4. Adjustment of electrode wire drive roller tension

Tension is adjusted to a setting less than that for steel plate welding. When the electrode wire is held lightly at the contact tip area and the torch switch is on, the wire is set so that it will slip in the drive roller area. If the tension is set too high, the aluminum alloy electrode wire will be twisted. If it is set too low, the wire speed will not be constant.

NOTE:

The tools used for aluminum alloy welding should be kept completely separate from those used for steel plate.

Use a stainless steel wire brush.

Use sanding tools which have been reserved especially for use with aluminum alloys, (If the same tools are used for steel plate as well, iron deposits will remain on the surface of the aluminum alloy contaminating the welding locations.)

Proper storage of electrode wire is important for best welding results.

Store electrode wires where they will not become dirty or scratched and where they will be fr ee from contact with oils and

greases.

When electrode wire is being used, ensure that it is wound properly on its spool. Use clean gloves to seal wire in airtight vinyl bags and store at a constant temperature in a location where it will be dry at all times.

Take steps to ensure that the covers sealing electrode wire containers are not opened until actual use.

Plug W e l d i n g P r o c e d u r e s

When removing or replacing plates bonded by spot welding, drill through the spot weld nugget and remove. The combinations shown in the figures below apply when plates are to be welded together. Drill the hole when the plates have been removed or drill the prepared hole, and proceed with plug welding.

1. Plate combinations and prepared holes Diameter of drill (spot cutter) when removing plates: 10 mm (3/8") Drill the hole in the new part. Drill diameter: 8~10 mm (5/16~3/8")

Unit: mm (in)

Two stacked plates:

ø10

(3/8)

Two stacked plates:

Three stacked plates:

ø10

(3/8)

Top plate

Bottom plate

Top plate

Bottom plate

Top plate

Middle plate

Bottom plate

Hole drilled in one plate only.

Hole drilled through both plates.

Hole drilled through all three plates.

2. Adherence

Where the plug welding is to be performed, the aluminum alloy plates must adhere together firmly, otherwise the welding will

be defective.

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Plug W e l d i n g P r o c e d u r e s ( c o n t ' d )

3. Cleaning and sanding Use a wax and grease remover to clean off any dirt, oil or grease prior to welding.

If the aluminum alloy surface is coated with a paint film, use a disc sander and #80 sanding disc to remove the paint.

Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the bare surface of the aluminum alloy immediately before the welding.

NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the bare surface of the aluminum alloy immediately before welding.

Cleaning range

Unit: mm ( in )

When drilling a single-layer hole in two stacked plates:

ø25

( 1. 0)

ø10

(3/8)

015

(0.6)

Oxide film removal by sanding

1. Top surface of top plate.

Prepared hole

2. Bottom surface of top plate.

Prepared hole

Top plate

Bottom plate

Removal of

oxide film

Sand the top and bottom surfaces of the top plate and

the welding surface of the bottom plate.

Remove oxide film by sanding.

Prepared h o le .

25 mm (1.0 in) diameter area on top surface of top plate

centering on plug hole.

15 mm (0.6 in) diameter area on bottom surface of top plate

and welding surface of bottom plate centering on plug hole.

3. Welding surface of bottom plate.

When a hole is to be made through two stacked plates:

Unit: mm (in)

ø10

(3/8)

Top plate

Bottom plate

ø15

(0.6)

ø25

(1.0)

Range of oxide film removal by sanding.

1. Top surface of top plate/bottom surface of bottom plate.

Prepared hole

Removal of oxide film

Sand the top and bottom surfaces of both the top and bottom plates.

25 mm (1.0 in) diameter area on top surface of top plate and bottom surface of bottom plate centering on plug hole.

2. Bottom surface of to p plate/top surface of bottom plate.

Prepared hole

When a hole is to be made through three stacked plates:

Unit: mm (in)

Top plate

Middle p l a t e

Bottom plate

ø10

(3/8)

ø15

(0.6)

ø25

(1.0)

Range of oxide film removal by sanding.

1. Outer surfaces of top and bottom plates.

Prepared hole

15 mm (0.6 in) diameter ar ea on bottom surface of t op plate and top surface of bottom plate centering on plug hole.

Sand both surfaces of the top, middle and bottom plates as shown

to remove oxide film.

25 mm (1.0 in) diameter area on outer surfaces of top and bottom plates centering on plug hole.

Removal of

oxide film

2. Inner surfaces of top and bottom plates, both surface of

middle plate.

Prepared hole

15 mm (0.6 in) diameter area on inner surfaces of top and bottom plates and on both surfaces of middle plate cen tering on plug hole.

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Plug Welding Procedures (cont'd)

4. Welding Prepared hole diameter: 10 mm (0.4 in)

Plug welding starts from the outside of all weld zones (outside start).

As shown in the figure, outside start welding commences at a position approximately 15 mm (0.6 in) from the weld zone.

Welding start point

Approx. 15 mm (0.6 in)

Advantages of outside start

Penetration is enhanced by the preheating effect accompanying the outside start.

The initial penetration area is clearly visible is the light given off by the arc and working efficiency is improved.

Outside start provides preheating to safeguard the aluminum alloy from inadequate initial penetration.

NOTE: Maintain a stable posture so t hat t he torc h does not move around but is held firmly a nd so that t he weld zone is clearly

visible.

Welding

When drilling a single-layer hole in two stacked plates:

Proceed with welding while aiming at the edge of the hole

where the top and bottom plates meet.

MIG GUN

Protrusion of r ev er se s ide b ead .

NOTE: Melting of 1/3 to 2/3 of the bottom plate is the

adequate for the weld.

With a hole through two stacked plates:

Procedure

Proceed with welding while closely observing the melting condition of the weld zone. Until the operator is experienced in welding, take care not to increase the distance between the torch contact

tip and base metal.

MIG GUN

Welding start point

Ensure adequate penetration as far as the bottom plate.

The reverse side bead on the bottom plate may protrude

in the process. Keep the protrusion to a minimum.

(1) First, proceed from the top.

Proceed with welding while aiming at the joint where the top

and bottom plates meet.

MIG GUN

With a hole through three stacked plates:

Proceed with welding while aiming at the joint where the middle and bottom plates meet.

MIG GUN

The plug hole is filled after welding to a distance

equivalent to about one and half times the entire

circumference.

MIG GUN

Welding start point

The plug hole is filled after welding to a distance equivalent to about twice the entire circumference.

(cont'd)

Aluminum A ll oy R e pa i r

Plug W e l d i n g P roc edu re s (c o n t ' d)

Grinding

Protrusion of reverse side bead. Hole through two stacked plates:

Hole through three stacked plates:

Welding

View from bottom plate

Procedure

(2) Use a disc grinder or disc sander to grind down the area

where the bead on the reverse side protrudes until it is flush with the surface of the bottom plate.

(3) Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the surface

where the bead is ground down.

(4) Use an outside start to weld the bottom plate where the

bead is ground down.

Approx. 15 mm (0.6 in)

MIG GUN

Bottom plate side

Top plate side

(5) When welding the bottom surface, position the torch

perpendicularly and weld around the edge of the plug hole.

Butt Welding Procedures

Reduce the clearance as shown in the figure below for butt welding thin plates or sheets. If the clearance is too wide, welding should be performed in the stitch mode.

1. Edge preparation

With plates less than 3 mm (0.12 in) thick:

0~0.5

(0~0.02

in)

max.

Weld with a square edge without special preparation.

Use a smooth-cut file to bring the the edge preparation

surface to a smooth finish.

With plates more than 3 mm (0.12 in) thick:

Proceed with V-shaped edge preparation.

Edge preparation is required for butt welding thick plates, as shown. Use a disc grinder and file (rough-cut or vixen file) for edge preparation. Use a disc sander with #80 sanding disc and a file (smooth-cut) to finish the prepared area.

0~0.5 mm ( 0 ~0 . 02 i n)

max.

0~0.5 m m ( 0 ~ 0 . 0 2 i n ) m a x .

Reverse side beads often occur because of edge preparation in the above figure.

2. Cleaning and sanding Use a wax and grease remover to clean off any dirt, oil or grease prior to welding. If the aluminum alloy surface is coated with a paint film, use disc sander and #80 sanding disc to remove the paint. NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to brush the bare surface of the aluminum alloy. Do this on both the top and bottom

surfaces.

Sanding range

For square edge preparation:

Sand the top to a width of approx. 20 mm (0.8 in) and the bottom t o a width of approx. 10 mm (0.4 in).

20 mm

(0. 8

in)

10 mm

(0. 4

in)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Butt Welding Procedures (cont'd)

Sanding range

For V-shaped edge preparation:

Sand the top to a width approximately 3 times the width of the edge and the bottom to a width approximately equivalent to the edge.

Width of edge

NOTE: Also sand the edge preparation area.

3. Tack Welding Prior to finish welding, carry out tack welding to prevent strain and enhance joint precision. Weld the plates at several

points with short beads.

NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the tack weld zones prior to finish welding.

The thinner the sheet or plate, the shorter the tack welding pitch and bead.

Avoid tack welding the ends and corners of the base metal.

Since the beads left by tack welding are not ground down afterward, this process should be carried out with the same precision as finish welding.

4. Main welding Maintain a stable posture so that the gun does not move around but is held firmly. The weld zone is clearly visible. Maintain the proper distance between the gun contact ti p and the base metal, and maintain the proper g un angle. Adjust

the gun feed speed while observing penetration.

NOTE:

Aluminum alloys are welded at a higher gun feed speed than steel plate.

Use the forehand welding sequence for the gun advance direction in order to minimize the formation of black soot.

Until the operator is experienced in welding, take care not to increase the distance between the torch contact tip and the base metal.

When welding multiple layers of a thick material, brush the surface of the welded area thoroughly using a stainless steel wire brush after each pass.

5. Greater tr eatme nt

Craters may form when the welding bead is completed. They should be filled properly to avoid defects.

There

when

are two the

ways

welding

bead

treating

completed,

craters.

Either stop

alternatively, switch

the gun and

fill

the

crater

the arc and

then

without

back

switching

again

off the arc

fill

the

suddenly

crater.

CRATER

• MIG GUN

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Butt welding Procedures (cont'd)

6. How to weld without inducing strain

Tremendous strain results if the base metal is overheated during MIG welding.

When many welding joints have been created, proceed to weld from a location with a minimal degree of freedom. Normally, welding proceeds from the center of the area or center of the joints to the outside.

In direct proportion to the thickness of t he plates, do not conduct lengthy welding operations at one time. Instead, divide the job up into shorter operations, as shown in the figure below.

Preventing strain by sequencing welding work:

Preventing strain by sequencing bead:

Symmetric welding sequence

Welding procedure

When an operator is experienced, the strain can be reduced by increasing the gun feed speed at higher power settings (current). This method reduces the amount of heat transmitted to the base metal.

In the case of thin plates where there is a danger of melt-down, do not weld continuously without stopping but weld short

sections at a time. If the welder is provided with a stitch mode, set to this mode and perform stitch welding.

Skip welding

Overall welding direction

Butt weld zone defects:

The table below shows possible weld zone defects and their causes. Care must be taken to ensure that none of these defects occur. If a defect does deve lop , pinpoint the causes and consider t he appropriate co un te rm ea su re, change the work method, and proceed in a way which will produce stable welding results.

Defect

Bead crack

Crater crack

Appearance

Crack

Excessively high welding current.

Unsuitable filler metal, (welding wire).

Unsuitable crater treatment.

Main cau se s

Crack

Undercut

Poor gun aim. Excessively high welding current. Excessively high welding speed.

Overlap

Insufficient welding current. Excessively low welding speed.

Incomplete penetration Unsuitable edge preparation.

Insufficient welding current. Excessively high welding speed.

Blowhole, pit

Blowhole

Pit

Dirt on base metal (inadequate cleaning). Use steel wire brush. Improper shielding (insufficient shielding gas, strong wind). Moisture on plate surface. Dirt on electrode wire.

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Butt welding Procedures (cont'd)

Defect Appearance

Unaligned beads Welding wire speed not constant.

Gun travel speed not constant.

Melt-down Excessively high welding current.

Unsuitable edge preparation (too wide).

Formation of soot Poor gun angle.

Improper gun advance (forehand weld sequence). Improper shielding (insufficient shielding gas, strong wind). Dirt on base metal.

Main causes

Fillet W el di ng Procedures

Fillet welding is used on body parts which have different thickness and which need to be strong comparatively. It is important

to have a thorough grasp of what follows.

1. Adherence The aluminum alloy plates where the fillet welding is to be performed must fit together firmly, otherwise, the weld will be defective.

2. Cleaning and sanding Use a wax and grease remover to clean away any dirt, oil or grease prior to welding. If the aluminum alloy surface is coated

with a paint film, use a disc sander with a #80 sanding disc to remove the paint.

NOTE: Use a stainless steel wire brush to burnish the bare surface of the aluminum alloy immediately before welding.

Sanding range:

Sand the top and bottom surfaces of the upper plate and the adhesion surface of the lower plate.

Upper plate

10 mm

(0.4

in)

Weld l i n e

Lower plate

5 mm 10 mm (0.2

Range of oxide film removal by sanding:

Upper plate

5 mm (0.2

in)

5 mm (0.2

in)

10 mm (0.4

in)

(0.4

10 mm

Weld line

in)

(0.4

Sand to a width of about 10 mm (0.4 in) on both the upper and lower plates on the outside of the weld line, and to a width of about 5 mm (0.2 in) from the weld line for the inside surface which will

be overlapped. Also sand the end of the upper

plate.

in)

Lower plate

(cont'd)

Aluminum Al loy Repair

Fillet W e l d i n g P r o c e d u r e s ( c o n t ' d )

3. Welding

During actual welding, penetration will occur quickly for th e top plate since the end of the plate is being welded. For the bottom plate, however, welding starts at the center of the plate, which is hard to melt. Proceed with the current slightly higher than fo r butt welding and closely observe bottom plate penetration.

Easy penetration at this edge

This surface is hard to melt.

Although with the base metal su rf ac e whic h depends on the plate th ick ness . The operator shou ld carefully ob serve t he melting of the base metal and proceed. Special attention must be paid when the thicknesses of the top and bottom plates differ.

in the

case

butt

welding

the gun is

positioned perpendicular

to the

base

metal,

fillet

welding

it is

used

at an

angle

Approx. 10°

MIG GUN

The

ideal

size

of the

bead

in a

cross-sectional view thickness of the plates differ, proceed to weld in alignment with the thin plate so as t o minimize both the strain induced by weld ing

the base metal and any changes in organization which may occur.

fi lle t

welding

identical

Forehand weld sequence

5°~15°

Direction of advance

to or

slightly

larger than

the

plate thickness,

If the

NOTE: Welding should be intermittent.

Fillet weld zone defects:

The table below shows frequent fillet weld zone defects and their causes.

Defect

Excessive melting of upper plate

Appearance

Poor gun angle. Poor gun position.

Main c a u s e s

Excessively high welding current.

Incomplete penetration

Insufficient welding current.

Poor adhesion position Faulty gun feed position.

Unaligned beads

Improper gun feed speed. Poor gun height.

Incomplete penetration of lower plate.

Faulty gun feed position. Insufficient welding current.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Weld Area Finishing

NOTE: Inspect for cracks before finishing the weld zones of aluminum alloys (see page 2-29).

When sanding weld zones

Use a disc grinder (A36P grindstone) for roughing and a disc sander for finishing (#80).

-1)Roughing

Use the disc grinder (A36P) for weld reinforcements, always leaving a finishing allowance.

-2) Finishing Cut Operation

Use the disc sander (#80 disc) to finish the area of the finishing allowance and give the weld zone a smooth finish.

NOTE:

Roughing applies only to weld reinforcements. Care should be taken to leave the surface of the aluminum alloy untouched.

Take care not to remove too much material in the roughing process since this can cause a loss of strength.

Take care not to press the sanding tool too forcefully against the surface.

Replace the disc of the sanding tool with a fresh disc if the surface becomes clogged with aluminum alloy fragments.

Roughing area

Finishing allowance

Weld zones that are hidden from view do not need to be finished.

Crack Inspection

An inspection for cracks must be conducted after the weld zones of the aluminum alloy have been welded and after buckling in

aluminum alloy body frames has been straightened out.

A color contrast penetrant examination method is used for crack inspection.

The penetrant method utilizes the capillary phenomenon of liquids. The test itself uses a liquid with a powerful penetration capability to check out the location of minute defects which are not visible to the naked eye.

The color contrast penetrant method is a type of penetrant test which uses a penetrant solution containing coloring. A

penetrant solution which contrasts strongly with the color of the developing solution is used to enable the lighter locations to be observed.

Method of application

Items used: penetrant solution, developing solution, washer

1. Wash the inspection surface with the washer.

2. Apply penetrant solution to the surface and allow the solution ample time to soak down inside the cracks.

3. Wash off any excess penetrant solution remaining on the surface.

4. Spread the developing solution and cracks will be clearly indicated.

NOTE:

During these operations, be sure to follow the instructions for use given by the manufacturer of the color contrast penetration

agent.

Be careful of ventilation.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

When a Crack is detected

1. Weld zones

If a crack is detected in a weld, scrape off an area twice as long as the crack and reweld.

Crack

Welding bead

About double the crack length

Approx. 60°

Crack

Area to be removed

2. Shaping

CAUTION: If a crack is fo rmed when the sheet metal is being straightened, replace th e part, do not c or re ct b y we ld ing.

NOTE: If, upon completion of the work, there are still very minute cracks which cannot be detected except with a color

contrast penetrant, drill holes at both ends of the crack, and proceed with the welding.

Crater treatment

Block the cracks: approx. 2 mm (0.08 in) diameter

Body, Frame Area Shaping

Body and frame areas made of aluminum alloys use plates which are between 1.5 and 2 times as thick as steel plates.

When deformations must be straightened out, aluminum alloys feel harder or stiffer to the touch than conventional steel plate.

In order to avoid inducing changes in the quality of steel plate, the use of a torch to heat up sheet plates is avoided whenever possible. In the case of aluminum alloys, however, work hardening occurs in buckled areas which makes it easy for cracks to form.

Do not use a frame straightener for straightening work without applying heat with an acetylene torch. At temperatures above 392°F (200°C) elongation characteristics are improved and work is facilitated.

Heating temperature control method

Since the melting point of aluminum alloys is approximately 1184°F (640°C) and since there is hardly any change in color even

when the temperature rises, there is a tendency to apply too much heat.

To check the degree of heating and keep it within limits, use thermopaint which changes color 230°F (110°C).

Apply the thermopaint in a strip about 10 mm (0.4 in) wide at a point approx. 25 mm (1.0 in) from the outer circumference to

be exposed to the torch flame. Stop heating when the color clearly changes in the surrounding area where the thermopaint was applied. The temperature of the heated at this time will be less than 752°F (400°C).

The time required for heating depends greatly on how the aluminum alloy is exposed to the t or ch flame and on the area covered by the heating.

As shown in the figure below, the upper temperature limit can be controlled and overheating prevented by applying thermopaint

in places 25 mm (1.0 in) away from the area to be heated.

Outer circumference of area exposed to flame.

Approx. 25 mm (1.0 in)

Approx. 10 mm (0.4 in)

THERMOPAINT

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Body, Frame Area Shaping (cont'd)

NOTE:

Thermopaint (temperature indicator which changes color at 230°F (110°C) must be used for temperature control to ensure that the aluminum alloy does not overheat.

When heating an alloy, move the torch flame continually so that it does not focus on one particular spot.

CAUTION:

When heated, aluminum alloys melt without changing color.

Since the side sills of aluminum alloy bodies are susceptible to bending and torsional stress, an extruded heat-treated material (6000 series) is used. If a side sill is damaged, it must be replaced.

Unit: mm (in)

Thermopaint

Thermopaint changes color

752°F (400°C)

572°F (300°C)

392°F (200°C)

212°F

(100°C)

32°F

Time re q ui re d f o r h e a ti n g

Skin Panel Area Shaping

1. Repairs using hammers and dollies

Hammering methods using hammers and dollies are basically the same as for steel plate.

The hammers and dollies shown below are used for aluminum alloys which have a relatively high elongation.

HAMMERS DOLLIES

Metal

NOTE:

The hammer head is rounded so the surface will not be dented. The resistance of aluminum alloy panels to corrosion is reduced when soldering is used to shape a panel. Also, since cracks sometimes form, soldering should not be performed.

There are two ways of using a dolly when hammering:

"Hammer of f doll y" wh ere t he hammer and dolly a re positioned askew, and "hammer on dolly" where t he panel is s a nd wi ch ed

between the hammer and the dolly, and the hammer is used above the dolly.

Hammer off dolly:

Wood

Hammer on dolly:

The "hammer off dolly" method with its minimal elongation and work-hardening is frequently used for aluminum alloys.

It is used to hammer down surfaces.

NOTE: Be careful that the surface does not fall below the contour.

Aluminum alloys react quickly to hammering with the "hammer on dolly" method, and elongation results. When this method is used, the surface must be tapped very lightly.

The contact surfaces of the hammer and dolly must be kept clean and polished at all times so that the base metal is not marked or scratched.

(cont'd)

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Skin Panel Area Shaping (cont'd)

Hammering

To shape a deformed panel, use a hammer and dolly to smooth out unevenness. As shown in the figures below, a first even out a large indentation close to the original shape.

Use this method to straighten sharp curves fr om inside. After the shape has been restored to line C Fig. 1, use the hammer carefully

to prevent panel elongation, then continue as shown in Fig. 2,3 and 4.

Fig.

Drawing

with

steel plates,

Aluminum alloy does not change color when heated, so it is important for the temperature to be controlled by applying thermo-

paint so that the panel does not melt.

NOTE: The kind of drawing hammer (serrated face) used for hammer finishing of steel plate should not be used for aluminum alloy since it can cause cracking.

a gas

torch

can be

used

Fig.

apply heat,

then

draw

Fig.

the

surface

Fig.

area

correct panel warp.

2. Paint film removal and cleaning

Use an #80 to #120 sanding disc to remove the paint film. Hold the disc plate lightly against the surface to avoid inducing

strain. Proceed with feather-edging over a wide area bordering on the old paint film.

Approx. 20 mm (0.8 in)

-1.

Grind down

-2. When using #120 sandpaper to smooth the sanding marks from the #80 paper, leave an edge measuring between 20 ~30 mm (0.8~1.2 in) and proceed with feather-edging.

-3. Use compressed air to blow away any dust, dirt or moisture on the putty surface. Remove any oil or grease with a wax

and grea se re mover .

the old

If it is raining or if the humidity is high, warm up the base metal using an infrared lamp or heater to remove the moisture.

Similarly, warming up the base metal in cold weather (to about 68°F (20°C) also improves putty adhesion and speeds

up the drying process.

paint

film

using

a #80

sandpaper

pad

over a wider

Feather-edge

area

than

the

putty

area.

Old paint film

Base metal

(cont'd)

2-35

Aluminum Alloy Repair

Skin Panel Area Shaping (cont'd)

3. Finishing with putty

Unlike steel plate, putty cannot be applied directly to the bare surface of aluminum alloys. Apply an epoxy primer first, then add the putty. Putty is a material reduces the amount of work time involved in panel repair. With its excellent restorative properties and workability, using of putty is better than repairing a panel by hammering it or applying heat.

-1. Puttying

The basic instructions for applying putty are: clean the surface of the panel to be repaired, do not allow air to enter the putty, do not apply a thick layer at one time, and apply the putty to conform to the panel shape.

Air blowing

Main points in applying putty

For flat surfaces, use a harder spatula; for gently curving surfaces, use a softer spatula; for sharply curving surfaces, use a

flexible spatula made of rubber.

NOTE: Apply the puny from bottom to top, taking care not to reduce the height of the center area.

Plastic Wood

How to use a spatula:

Good

Grease removal

Drying

No Good

How to use a spatula on

curved a r e a s :

Panel

Rubber Spatula

-2. Putty sanding

There are three stages in putty sanding: roughing, leveling and border line flattening.

Sand the putty in all directions.

Always use an orbital sander or double-action sander.

Operate a power-driven file by hand for finishing.

Sander motion:

SHORT O R B I T A L S A N D E R

Sanding a flat surface:

Move in all directions over the surface of the putty.

Movement o f single-action sandpaper area:

LONG ORBITAL SANDER

DOUBLE-ACTION SA ND ER

Movement of double-action sandpaper area:

HAND FILE

Sanding a sharply curved surface: Move the sander smoothly to roll over the high-point of the curved surface.

Sanding a gently curved surface: Move the sander diagonally in a specific direction only.

Aluminum Alloy Repair

List of "Dos" and "Don'ts"

1. Sanding work

1) Don't use the same sanding tools or sandpaper for both aluminum alloy sheets and steel plates.

2) Do operate the sanding tool at a low speed; don't operate continuously as this heats the surface of the metal.

3) Don't use clogged sanding tools or sandpaper.

4) Do use a stainless steel wire brush; don't use an iron wire brush.

2. Welding work

1) Don't forget to clean and sand the weld zones.

2) Do check welding conditions using a test piece prior to welding: don't start welding body areas with out preparation.

3) Don't use electrode wire other than A5356WY.

4) Don't use shielding gas other than 100% argon gas.

5) Do keep electrode wire in airtight containers and store in a dry, constant

-temperature location; don't use wire that has been left around for a long time.

6) Don't use acetylene or oxygen gas welding or brazing.

3. Sheet metal work

1) In structural areas that have been damaged or buckled, do replace any parts with cracks; don't repair cracked parts after frame straightening.

2) Do repair buckled areas by heating them in controlled temperature, don't try to extend them when cold.

3) Don't clamp anything directly without protection.

4) Don't use a serrated face hammer.

5) Don't perform soldering (leading) shaping.

6) Don't forget to apply an epoxy primer before puttying.

4. Assembly work

1) Do use only the designated nuts and bolts; don't use any part which has not been coated with [DACRO] or [DACRO +

TORQUER]

5. Inspection

1) Don't forget to check for cracks after frame straightening and after welding.

General Information

Features

Mid-engine car with ground-hugging, full-forward canopy design.

The lower body is AH-PO for greater resistance to corrosion and collision damage.

Outer panels, (except the roof) are constructed of individual panels to allow more convenient and economical repairs.

In considerations of rigidity, surface smoothness and simultaneous body painting, the trunk lid spoiler is made of UP-G.

Straight-line front side-frame for excellent absorption of front impact energy.

Extruded-molded side sills with high strength and rigidity.

Lower part of center pillar is designed as flare-type and united solidly to main frame, thus greatly improving rigidity.

All main-frame parts are joined smoothly, providing high impact strength and improving high body rigidity.

Large cross-section rear frame to protect fuel tank in event of rear impact.

Rear fenders are detachable to make minor collision repairs easier.

FRONT SIDE FRAME

FRONT LOWER

CROSS MEMBER

SIDE SILL

REAR SIDE REAR BULKHEAD CENTER FRAME

REAR BULKHEAD CENTER LOWER CROSS MEMBER

REAR FLOOR CROSS MEMBER

Composition

HOOD (#6000)

ROOF PANEL (#6000)

REAR HATCH GLASS FRAME (#5000)

TRUNK LID (#6000)

Body Composites

(#5000)

Types of aluminum alloys for pressings:

Alloy

Non-heat-treated alloys #5000, Aluminum-Magnesium (AI-Mg)

Heat-treated #6000, AIuminum-Magnesium-Silicone

FRONT FENDER (#6000)

Part

Body composites

(HA5182P-0)

Exterior su rfa ce skin

(HAZ6083P-T4)

Roof panel (HAZ6083P-T4)

Side sills (HACF60-T5)

REAR FENDER (#6000)

SIDE SILL (#6000)

DOOR PANEL (#6000)

Material properties

Good corrosion resistance, Weldability a n d m a l l e a b i l i t y .

Excellent malleability and corrosion resistance

(HAZ6083-T4) is particularly resis-

tant to corrosion.

General Information

Fasteners Aluminum Bodies.

The NSX is built mostly out of aluminum alloys. Be sure to observe the following points:

Special bolts and nuts are used in body and suspension areas. Never use any kind other than these special bolts and nuts. If other bolts or nuts are used, electrolysis may accelerate corrosion around tightening points, resulting in loosening of the

joints. These special bolts and nuts can be identified by the gray plating on the heads or green coating on the threads.

Gray plating

Green co a ti ng

on the threads

Gray plating: "Dacro" type

Gray plating + Green coating on the threads: "Torquer" type

Aluminum alloy parts are softer than conventional steel parts, so tightening torques must be strictly observed. A torque wrench must always be used on fasteners with designated torque values. Tightening by "feel" may result in

•loosening of threads or damage to parts from excessive tightening.

Clean

all

threads, the threads themselves may be damaged, resulting in faulty connections.

thread ridges thoroughly before

tightening,

tightening

performed when foreign materials

are

present

on the

Construction

DASHBOARD UPPER

page 4 - 1 0

ROOF PANEL

page 4 - 2 7

TRUNK FRONT PANEL

page 4-69

TRUNK LID

REAR FLOOR

page 4-53

REAR PANEL

page 4-50

DASHBOARD LOWER

HOOD

FRONT BULKHEAD

page 4-5

FRONT FLOOR

page 4 - 38

REAR BULKHEAD CENTER

page 4 - 7 3

SIDE SILL

page 4 - 3 1

REAR FLOOR CROSS MEMBER

page 4-57

REAR SIDE FRAME

page 4- 60

SIDE PANEL

page 4 - 2 1

REAR F EN DE R

page 4-48

FRONT ASSEMBLY

page 4-42

FRONT SIDE FRAME

page 4 - 1 4

FRONT FENDER

page 4 - 3

DOOR

REAR ASSEMBLY

page

4-77

Front Fender

Replacement

NOTE: Take particular care of clearance and level difference with the hood, door panels and front bumper.

1. Remove the related parts. Front bumper assembly Front side turn signal light assembly Side sill panel

2. Mask parts with tape.

Stick masking tape on neighboring lower windshield and door to protect painted surfaces from damage.

3. Remove the inner fender.

4. Remove the front fender mounting bolts.

NOTE:

Use the DACRO coated or DACRO & TORQUER-

coated genuine Honda bolts and screws (see page

3-4).

Do not used any bolts which DACRO-coating has come off, as it results in corrosion.

Mounting Bolts Torque: 6 x 1.0mm 13 N-m (1.3 kg-m, 9 Ib-ft)

CLIP

WEATHERSTRIP

FRONT FENDER

INNER FENDER

: CORROSION RESISTANT BOLT

(cont'd)

Front Fender

Replacement (cont'd)

5. Apply paint on the back of the new fender.

See Paint Repair section

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, glo ve s, e ye p r ot ec t io n a nd a p p ro p ri a t e clothing when painting. Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

NOTE: Apply paint to lower section of front pillar also.

6. Set the front fender. Fasten to the front wheelhouse at two spots with bolts. Close th e hood and che ck t he f ro nt a nd rear c le ar ances, door clearance and level differences.

MOUNTING BOLTS

MOUNTING

BOLT

SPOT

SEALER

SPOT SEALER

FRONT FENDER

7. Tighten fully. After checking the mounting position, tighten all

bolts fully.

Apply the spot sealer to the mounting bolt positions.

NOTE: Judge proper amount of new sealer according

to thickness of old sealer on removed part.

Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Apply an undercoat to the inside of the front fe nder and upper face of the front wheelhouse.

9. Apply the paint

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye p rot ect ion a nd ap pro pria te clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

10. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they we re removed.

11. Ch eck and make adjustments.

Check wiring connections. Check for blown bulbs or fuse.

Front Bulkhead

Description

The front bulkhead is joined to the f ro nt wheelhouse and front side fr ame. It f orm s the base for t he headlights and other parts and maintains the rigidity of the front section of the body. Pay particular attention to twists and parallelism and check mounting of related parts when welding.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

: Spot Weld : Fillet Weld

Support upper c ross member and Radiator sup por t sid e cros s member

Support side cross member and Lower/ Upper cross member

RIVETS (2) Upper frame and Side bulkhead

Side rear bulkhead, Bulkhead side rear stiffener and Wheelhouse

Side rear bulkhead,

Front side inner member and Wheelhouse

member and Side rear bulkhead

Front side inner

Side frame and Side front bulkhead

Side frame and Bulkhead side rear stif fener

Side front bulkhead and Side rear bulkhead

Front side inner member and Wheelhouse

Front side inner member, Wheelhouse and Damper housing

Front side inner member, Dashboard side member and Wheelhouse

Front side inner member and Dashboard side member

Radiator s u p p o r t side cross member and Support upper cross member

Front side inner member and Bulkhead side rear stiffener

Side rear bulkhead and Bulkhead side rear stiffener

Front sid e inner mem ber, Side rear b ulkhe ad and Bulkhead side rear stiffener

Front Bulkhead

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Front bumper assembly Hood Right and left headlight assemblies Right and left front fenders Radiator Hood latch

2. Remove the bulkhead center stay, condenser and bumper stay brackets.

3. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. Check the damage to the front wheelhouse and

front side fram e before removing the f ro nt bulkhead.

Use the frame straightener to roughly pull out and repair the damaged bulkhead before removing the bulkhead. When the buckled section is large, heat up the damaged se ct ion wi th a n ac et yl ene we l de r an d p ull i t

out.

The aluminum alloy does not change much in color. Use the thermo paint which color changes at 230°F (110°C) to check for the heating limit. Pull out the damaged section when the color of the paint changes (see page 2-31).

NOTE: Check the fit of the door, taking care not to pull

the damaged area out more than necessary.

Use the Honda underbody clamp s and attach the car to the frame straightener at the clamping points securely.

Before fixing with the corrector, be sure to set a piece of aluminum plate at each clamp point to

protect the car. After pulling, check the damper housing and side frame position using body dimensional drawing.

CENTER STAY

BULKHEAD UPPER FRAME

LOWER CROSS MEMBER

BUMPER STAY BRACKET

SIDE FRONT BULKHEAD

BULKHEAD SIDE REAR STIFFENER

A/C CONDENSER

BRACKET

SIDE REAR BULKHEAD

FRONT SIDE INNER MEMBER

4. Keep the body, level. Jack up the body, and place safety stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety

stand location points.

5. Drill the rivets of the bulkhead upper frame with a 5 mm (3/16") drill, then remove the bulkhead upper frame.

DRILL

BULKHEAD UPPER FRAME

RIVETS

6. Remove the side front bulkhead and front side inner member.

Strike a center punch around the spot weld imprints. Drill the spot welds of th e side bulkhead using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter.

NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down

to the wheelhouse and front side frame themselves.

Cut off the side bulkhead with an air chisel, leaving the welding flanges intact.

DASHBOARD UPPER

FRONT SIDE INNER MEMBER

SIDE FRONT BULKHEAD

FRONT

SIDE

FRAME

When reusing

the

side

front

bulkhead,

holes by MIG welding.

Level the weld beads with a belt sander.

fill

drilled

Grind the fillet welds of the lower cross memberand-side frame joint using a rotary cutter.

LOWER CROSS MEMBER

Front

Center

Front

Center

SIDE FRONT

BULKHEAD

Level and finish the burrs from the pried off spot welds with a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glass whenever sanding, cutting or grind-

ing.

7. Mold the related parts. Use a hammer and dolly to mold the damaged areas

of the front wheelhouse and side frame.

Even out the welding flanges with a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

DASHBOARD UPPER

WHEELHOUSE

SIDE

FRAME

(cont'd)

Front Bulkhead

Replacement

8. Set the new side front bulkhead, lower cross member and bulkhead upper frame.

Drill

the

ø8~ø10 the welding flange of the new side bulkhead. Grind both sides of the welding section of the bulkhead with a sander to remove the undercoat from it. Grind and expose the aluminum alloy base.

Before setting the bulkhead, clean the welding sec-

tion with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease

remover. Remove the paint film with a disc sander, etc.

or safet y gla sse s whe nev er sa nd ing, cutting or grin d-

ing.

Clean the aluminum alloy base with a stainless steel

wire brush just before welding.

Use the grind stone, paper, and wire brush or aluminum plate only. Clamp both the right and left sides with the visegrips and pliers as shown.

(5/16"~3/8")

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

plug weld holes

Check the bulkhead position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6). Measure the front compartment diagonally with a tracking gauge or convex tool as shown to check it for twisting or bending.

10. Drill 5 mm (3/16") holes through the bulkhead upper frame and side front bulkhead.

DRILL

BULKHEAD UPPER FRAME

RIVETS

Remove the bulkhead upper frame and sand the drill holes at bottom surface of it. Install the bulkhead upper frame.

Make sure the bulkhead upper frame and side front

bulkhead are contacted securely.

Set the rivets.

SIDE FRONT BULKHEAD

RIVET

RIVET TAP/D63SSBS

9.3 mm

(0.37

in)

4.8 mm

(0.12

in)

BULKHEAD UPPER FRAME

SIDE FRONT BULKHEAD

11. For temporary welding, plug weld the clamped sections.

Check the welding section for cracks (see page

2-29).

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left bulkheads are in line with each other.

12. Temporarily assemble the hood, headlight and front fender, then check t he clearances and level differences.

13. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and safety shoes.

Perform a trial welding first following the welder manufacturer's instructions. Before welding, remove the oxide film from the

welding face using a stainless steel wire brush.

14. Finish the welds. Roughly grind the welds with a disc grinder. Be sure

to leave the finishing allowance this time.

Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc

sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles

or safety glasses whenever sanding or grinding.

Smooth the flanged section of the front bulkhead

with a hammer and dolly, and attach it closely to the front wheelhouse and front side frame. Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while

roughly grinding the welds.

Take care not to grind excessively.

Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy particles, replace with a new disc.

15. Attach the front fender.

16. Lower the body. NOTE: Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

Torque: 110 N-m (11 kg-m, 80 Ib-ft)

Fasten the bulkhead upper frame and side front bulkhead with a rivets.

SIDE FRONT BULKHEAD

BULKHEAD UPPER FRAME

RIVET

17. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or

swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

18. Install the related parts.

19. Inspect, check, and make adjustments. Adjust the headlight aim. Check that the electrical components light up and operate properly.

Replenish radiator liquids and inspect for leaks.

Dashboard Upper

Description

The dashboard upper is the critical part where the windshield and steering parts are installed. Position the dashboard upper properly and secure it by MIG welding.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Dashboard upper and Damper housing

Dashboard upper and Dashboard lower

Dashboard and Dashboard lower

Dashboard upper and Wheelhouse/Damper housing

Dashboard and Wheelhouse

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Wiper arm and wiper motor Windshield

R/L front fenders Front pillar trim panel Door opening trim

Hood

Parts related to steering

Dashboard, etc.

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. The collision damage may extend to the front pillar and roof panel. Check for the damaged sections carefully and pull them out to reshape.

Before pulling out the damaged sections, it might be necessary to heat the sections with an acetylene

torch (see page 2-31).

Dashboard upper and Wheelhouse

Dashboard upper extension

see page 4-21)

Dashboard upper and Damper

Dashboard upper (Side cross member) and Front pillar inner lower

Dashboard upper a nd Front pillar inner lower

Dashboard upper and Damper housing

MIG

Dashboard upper (Side cross member) and Side panel (4-plate w e l d i n g )

3. Remove the dashboard upper extension.

• Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds.

• Drill the spot welds using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter.

• Grind the MIG fillet welds using a rotary cutter.

• Remove the dashboard upper extension using a chisel.

DASHBOARD UPPER

EXTENSION

4. Remove the dashboard upper. Drill a punch in the center of the spot welds to the

dashboard lower, front wheelhouse, and front

pillar. Drill the spot welds using a ø 10 (3/8") spot cutter. Grind the MIG fillet welds using a rotary cutter. Remove the remaining welding flanges using a chisel. Remove the burrs from the drilled flanges using a disc sander.

To prevent e ye injury, wear go ggle s or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

DASHBOARD UPPER (CROSS MEMBER)

5. Mold the related parts. Reshape the welding flange of the dashboard lower with a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

FRONT PILLAR INNER LOWER

WHEELHOUSE/ DAMPER

HOUSING

DASHBOARD LOWER

DASHBOARD UPPER

6. Set the new dashboard upper. Drill the ø8~ø10 (5/16"~3/8") holes for plug

welding in the welding flange of the new dashboard

upper. Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the

welding section and expose the aluminum alloy

base using a disc s an de r.

To prevent eye injury wear goggles or safety glass whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Remove the paint film from the welding section of

the body, and clean oil contaminations wi th a shop

towel soak ed with wax and grease remover.

Before setting the new dashboard upper remove

the oxide film from the welding section of the

replacement part and body using a stainless steel

wire brush.

(cont'd)

Dashboard Upper

Replacement (cont'd)

Set the dashboard upper and clamp it with the vise-grips and pliers. Install the windshield and check for proper installation and alignment.

DASHBOARD UPPER

7. Tack weld the dashboard upper. Plug weld the clamped sections.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves a nd s a fe t y sh o es .

8. Remove the vise-grips and pliers and install the front fender, windshield and hood. Check for difference in

level and clearance.

DASHBOARD UPPER

Weld the dashboard upper extension.

12. Apply the paint. See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or

swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

13. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the dashboard upper (see section 7).

14. Install the related parts.

Install in the reverse order of removal.

Check the front fender and hood for difference in level an d clearance.

10. Finish the welding section. Roughly grind the welds with a disc grinder. Be

sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc

sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear g ogg les or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Smooth the mating surface with the front windshield with a hammer a nd dol ly. Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds. Take care not to grind excessively.

Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If

the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

11. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the upper dashboard, pillars, etc.

15. Inspect and clean. Check the windshield for water leaks.

After installing the dashboard, check the lights,

gauges, etc. for proper operation. Clean the interior.

Front Side Frame

Description

The front sid e frame is critical fo r the rigidity of th e front compartme nt and front whee l alignment, as it is integrated with the f ro nt wheelhouse. During installation, position the front side frame by using the positioning jig (page 1-7) or to the dimension shown in the body dimensional drawings. Welding must be performed by using the aluminum alloy MIG welder.

Perform the trial welding first following the welder manufacturer's instructions, then weld properly. NOTE: Do not section frame rails except at manufacturers seams.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

NOTE: Replace the front side frame and wheelhouse as an assembly.

Side frame and Dashboard lower/cross member

Side frame and Dashboard upper

Side frame and Dashboard uppe r

Side frame, Front floor and Dashboard lower cross member

Side frame and Front fl oor

Side frame,. Front flo or and Side sill

Front side frame and Side sill

Dashboard upper and Damper

housing

Side frame and Dashboard upp er

Dashboard up p e r

extension (see page 4-21)

Dashboard lower cross member extension (Side frame) and Dashboard lower

Wheelhouse (Side frame) and Dashboard lower

Side frame and Dashboard up p e r

Front side frame and Side sill

Front side frame and Side sill end

L=20 L=50

Wheelhouse (Side frame) and Front inner lower pillar

Front side fr ame (Wheelhouse) and Front inner lower pillar

Front side frame and Front inner lower pillar

Front side frame, Front inner lower pillar

and Side panel

Front side frame, Side sill and Side panel

: Spot We ld

: Fillet Weld

: Slot plug weld

Dashboard lower cross member extension (Side frame) and Dashboard lower (Include 2 points of 3-plate welding)

NOTE: Side frame outer rear and dashboard lower cross member removed (see page

4-16).

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Front suspension related parts Brake hoses and pipes Front compartment electrical components Fittings in passenger compartment, etc.

NOTE: With the front bulkhead upper frame and lower cross member removed:

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and

the side sill side flanges.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety stand location points.

To protect t h e car body f r o m damage, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps.

Before cutting off t h e damaged sections, pull them out so that they are restored to the original shape.

Cutting off front side frame before roughly pulling out the damage makes repair of the related front floor, dashboard lower, and other related parts difficult.

DASHBOARD UPPER

It might be necessary to heat the damaged sections with an acetylene torch before pulling the them out

(see p a g e 2 - 3 1 ) .

FRONT SI DE FR AME

After pulling, check the damper housing and side frame positions using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) and positioning jig.

3. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower dashboard, front floor and side sill with a gas to rch and peel off with a metal spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the passenger c ompartmen t when heating.

(cont'd)

Front Side Frame

Replacement (c ont 'd)

4. Remove the dashboard upper extension. Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the wheel house.

Drill the spot welds of the dashboard upper exten-

sion using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter.

Grind the MIG weld (fillet weld) to the front pillar using a rotary cutter.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

DASHBOARD UPPER EXTENSION

5. Remove the side frame outer rear and dashboard lower cross member.

Grind the fillet welds of the front side frame outer rear with a rotary cutter. Drill the spot welds of the dashboard lower cross member using a spot cutter. Remove the side frame outer rear and lower cross member using a chisel.

SIDE FRAME

OUTER REAR

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER

6. Remove the front side frame. Strike a center punch around the spot weld imprints with the dashboard upper, dashboard lower and

front floor.

Drill the MIG welds (plug welding) using a ø15 (5/8") spot cutter (hole saw type). Drill the spot welds using a ø 10 (3/8") spot c utt er. Grind the fillet welds of the side frame-and-side sill

joint using a rotary cutter as shown.

DASHBOARD LOWER

FRONT SIDE FRAME

SIDE SILL

Peel off the welding flange using the chisel. Remove the burrs from the drilled sections with a disc grinder or disc sander.

To pre vent e ye in jur y, wear g o gg l es or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

DASHBOARD UPPER

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER EXTENSION UPPER

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER EXTENSION LOWER

SIDE SILL

END

FRONT SIDE FRAME

(cont'd)

Front Side Frame

Replacement ( c o n t ' d )

7. Mold the related parts. Reshape the dashboard lower-and-front floor joint using a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

DASHBOARD UPPER

Tighten the front side frame against the front floor

and side sill using the vise-grips, pliers, etc. Place a jack under the front side frame end and support it, and measure the positions for temporary attachment. Clamp the bulkhead upper frame and lower cross member

Measure the front compartment diagonally and check the front side frame and damper base positions using the body dimensional drawings.

FRONT

SIDE FRAME

BULKHEAD

UPPER FRAME

LOWER CR OSS

MEMBER

DASHBOARD LOWER

8. Set the new front side frame. Drill the ø10 (3/8") plug weld holes in the welding

flange of the new front side frame.

Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the

welding section an d expose th e alu min um alloy base

using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear g ogg les or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Remove the paint film from the welding section of

the body and clean off any oil contaminations using

a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

Just before setting the front side frame, remove the

oxide film from the welding surface of the replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

SIDE SILL

NOTE: Use of positioning j ig as sh own is recommended

(see page 1-7).

POSITIONING JIG

9. Tack weld the front side frame, the bulkhead upper frame and lower cross member.

To prevent eye injury and bums when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves a nd s af e ty s ho e s.

10. Measure the dimension, temporarily install the hood and fender, and check for difference in level and clearance.

11. Perform the main welding. Weld as much as possible with the jig still mounted.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves an d sa f et y sh oe s .

DASHBOARD LOWER

Before welding, perform the trial welding follow-

ing the welder manufacturer's instructions.

Clean the welding section with a stainless stee l wire brush before welding. The applicable welding methods in this step shall

be the MIG welding, plug welding, and fillet weld-

ing.

Check the welding section for cracks (see page

2-29).

DASHBOARD UPPER

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER EXTENSION UPPER

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER EXTENSION LOWER

SIDE SILL END

RIVETS

(see page

4-5)

(cont'd)

Front Side Frame

Replacement (cont'd)

12. Install and weld the related parts.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Drill the ø10 (3/8") holes in the dashboard lower cross member and plug weld. Set the side frame outer rear, clean the welding section with a stainless steel wire brush, and fillet weld.

SIDE FRAME OUTER REAR

13. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the dashboard

lower, etc.

14. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swal lowe d. Read the paint label before open-

ing paint container.

Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

15. Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Undercoat the front floor, etc. and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side sill, front pillar, etc.

16. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER

Plug weld the dashboard upper extension and wheelhouse by drilling the ø10 (3/8") holes, and the fillet weld the front pillar.

DASHBOARD UPPER

EXTENSION

Check the welding sections for cracks (see page

2-29).

17. Inspect, check and make adjustment.

• Measure the front wheel alignment.

• Inspect the brake system.

• Adjust the headlight aim.

Side Panel

Description

The side panel is critical for proper installation of the roof, windshield, rear hatch hinge, and door hinge. It is connected to the side sill and constitutes the cabin side. Positioning of the windshield and rear hatch is affected by how they are connected to the side panel. Temporarily install the side panel, front fender, and rear hatch, and check for difference in level and clearance.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Side Panel

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts: Door Door opening trim Carpet Door switch Seat belt Side sill panel Windshield

Rear hatch assembly Rear window Headliner Front fender Rear fen de r Dashboard

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left pillars are parallel the windshield surface.

Check the door and rear hatch for proper opening

and closing. Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points

on the bottom of the side sill and the side sill side

flanger.

After pulling, check the door, windshield and rear window opening using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

3. Remove the dashboard upper extension .

DASHBOARD UPPER

EXTENSION

Remove the side panel.

Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to

the roof side rail, front roof rail, and rear roof rail.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety

sand location points.

To protect the car body from damage, place a piece

of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps. Before removing the side panel, pull out the damaged sections so that they are restored to the original shape. Before pulling out the damaged sections, it might be necessary to heat them with an acetylene torch (see

page 2-31).

ROOF SIDE RAIL

Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the roof panel.

ROOF PANEL

Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the

front

pillar,

side

sill,

and

rear

pillar. Drill the spot welds using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter Grind the MIG welding section using a rotary cut-

ter.

Remove the remaining welding flanges using a

chisel.

Remove the burrs from the drilled section using a

disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or

grinding.

5. Mold the related parts. Smooth the welding flanges of the roof panel and welding section of the rear side panel with a hammer and do lly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

(cont'd)

Side Panel

Replacement ( c o n t ' d )

6. Set the new side panel. Drill the ø8 (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new side panel.

NOTE: When performing MIG welding on section ®, make fewer holes than the number of spots originally

welded.

Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the welding section and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc san der.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or s a fe ty g la ss es w he never sa ndi ng , cutting or grinding.

Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contaminations with a shop towel soaked with wax a nd grease remover.

Before setting the new side panel, remove the oxide film from the welding section of the replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

Install the side panel and clamp it wi th the vise-grips, pliers, etc.

8. Remove the vise-grips and pliers and install the windshield, front fender, door, rear window, and rear fender. Check for difference in level and clearance.

NOTE: Check for flushness of the front fender, door, and rear fende r. Check for smooth body line of t he car.

9. Perform main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves a nd safe ty s ho es .

Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions. Remove the oxide film from the welding section using a stainless steel wire brush. Weld the roof side rail.

SIDE PANEL

Check the body dimensions.

7. Tack weld the side panel.

To prevent eye injury and bums when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and s afety s hoes .

Plug weld the clamped sections to t empo rari ly install t he

side panel.

ROOF S ID E RAIL

Weld the dashboard upper.

DASHBOARD UPPER

SIDE

PANEL

The applicable welding methods are MIG welding, plug we ldi ng, and f il le t wel din g.

Check the welding sections for cracks (see page

2-29).

Weld the rear side panel.

10. Weld the dashboard upper extension.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

(cont'd)

Side Panel

Replacement (cont'd)

11. Finish the welding areas.

• Roughly grind the welds w ith a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is sm ooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear gog-

gles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or

grinding.

Smooth the flanged section of the door opening with a hammer and dolly.

Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds. Take care not to grind excessively.

Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If

the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

15. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order of removal. Check the door for proper installation and differ-

ence in level from the fenders.

16. Clean and check

After installing the dashboard, check the lights,

gauges, etc. for proper operation. Clean the passenger compartment and check for water leaks from the roof.

12. Apply the sealer (see section 5).

13. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that a r e harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

14. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the outer panel (see section 7).

Roof Panel

Description

Replacement

Deformation of the roof panel is highly noticeable in terms of the vehicle's outer appearance. Before replacing the roof rail, make sure that the body is horizontal. Before welding the roof panel, adjust the roof rail flanges so that they contact the roof panel.

Mass Production Body welding Diagram

Spot weld

Fillet w e l d Slot plug weld

Roof panel and Side roof rail (Side panel)

Roof panel and Front and side roof rails (Side panel)

Upper roof rail Inner flange

Roof si de rail and Lower roof rail

1. Remove the related parts. Windshield Rear hatch Rear window Sunvisors Ceiling light Headliner

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. Pull out the damaged area with the frame straightener before, removing the roof panel.

Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and

the side sill side flanges. To protect th e car body f r om damage, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps. Before pulling out the damaged section, it might be necessary to heat the section with an acetylene

torch (see page 2-31).

NOTE: Make sure that the right and left pillars are parallel with the windshield surface. Check the door a nd rear hatch for proper opening and closing.

Roof panel and Side panel

Upper roof rail, Inner

flange and Side panel

Roof panel and side panel (Upper st if fen er)

Roof panel and Side panel (Side rail)

After pulling, check the front and center pillar position using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) .

3. Keep the body level. Jack up the body at the f ro nt and back and place safety stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety

stand location points.

Roof pan el and Side panel

(cont'd)

Roof Panel

Replacement (cont'd)

4. Cut off the roof panel. Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds in

the roof panel flange.

Drill the spot welds using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter. Grind the MIG fillet welds using a rotary cutter. Remove the welding flange using a chisel.

CENTER PILLAR

INNER FLANGE

MIG weld positions (Roof side rail inside).

ROOF PANEL

ROOF SIDE RAIL

5. Mold the related parts. Smooth the welding flange of the roof side rail with a

hammer and dolly so that there is no clearance to the welding flange of the roof panel.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

6. Apply paint to the underside of the new roof panel.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before open-

ing paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appro-

priate clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

Outer panel and Rear roof upper rail

Rear roof lower rail and Roof side rail (4-points)

Cross section of roof rail.

Roof side rail outer panel

Forward

Roof side rail and Front in ner upper pi llar (5-points)

Front roof rail

and Side rail (2-points)

7. Set the new roof panel. Drill the ø8 (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new roof panel. Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the welding section and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contaminations with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

Before

s e t t i n g

t h e n e w

r o o f p a n e l ,

r e m o v e t h e o x ide film from the welding section of the replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

Install the new roof panel and clamp it with the vise-

grips and pliers.

Check the welding flange for close fitting. Check the roof panel for distortion and proper installation, and

check over the body dimensions.

ROOF PANEL

CENTER PILLAR INNER FLANGE

NOTE: When performing MIG welding on section ®, make fewer holes than the number of sports originally

welded.

8. Tack weld the roof panel.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

MIG/plug weld the clamped sections to temporarily install the roof panel.

Set the windshield and rear window, and check the

roof panel for proper installation. Install the rear hatch, then adjust the level difference

and

fit.

9. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Before welding, perform the trial welding follow-

ing the welder manufacturer's instructions.

ROOF SIDE RAIL

Forward

ROOF PANEL

Remove the oxide film from the welding sections using a stainless steel wire brush.

The applicable welding methods are MIG welding,

plug welding, and fillet w el di ng .

Check the welding sections for cracks (see page

2-29).

(cont'd)

Roof Panel

Replacement (cont'd)

10. Finish the welding area. Roughly grind the welds using a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc

sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Smooth the windshield and roof side flanges with

a hammer and dolly. Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds. Take care not to grind excessively.

Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If

the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

11. Apply the sealer (see section 5).

12. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

13. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the roof side rail.

14. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order of removal.

15. Check and clean.

Check the windshield and rear window for water leaks. Check the ceiling light for lighting. Clean the passenger compartment thoroughly.

Side Sill

Description

The side sill is critical for the rigidity of the body base and proper door installation. During replacement, refer to the body

dimensional drawings and determine the position to set the side sill properly. Weld securely following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Side sill , Dashboard lower cross member and Front floor

Side si ll a nd

Front floor

Side sil l and

Front side frame

L=50, L=20

Side sill and Dashboard lower cross member

Side sill. Front flo or,

and Rear bulkhead center

(4-plate welding)

Side sill, Front floor and Front side frame

Rear side frame

and Side sill

Side sill and Fro nt side frame

Side sill and Rear side frame

Side sill and Rear bulkhead center (Cross me mber )

Side sill and Front fl o o r

Side sill and Rear

side frame (Outside)

Side sill (lower and inside extension) and Rear side frame

L=15

Rear side frame and Rear frame lower

extension

Side sill and Front

inner lower pillar

NOTE: Side panel removed (see page 4-21).

Side sill and Rear side frame

Front side frame and Side sill end

Side sill and Rear frame lower extension

Rear side frame and Rear frame lower extension

L=30

Spot Weld Fillet Weld Slot plug weld

Side Sill

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts.

Front and rear fenders Door Side sill panel Rear pillar panel Door opening trim Carpet Driver's & passenger's seats Seat belt Fuel tank, fuel fill pipe (left side only)

Do not smoke while working near the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank

and/or lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an ap prov ed c on tai n er .

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and the side sill side flanges. To protect th e car body f ro m damage, place a piece

of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps. The collision damage may extend to the front floor,

front pillar, etc. Check for the damaged sections

carefully and pull them out with the frame

straightener to reshape.

Before pulling out the damaged sections, it might be

necessary to heat the sections with an acetylene torch (see page 2-31).

3. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the front

floor, side frame outer rear and dashboard lower

cross member with a gas torch and peel off a metal

spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to bum the fittings inside

the passenger compartment when heating.

4. Remove the side frame outer rear and dashboard lower cross m em b er .

SIDE FRAME

OUTER REAR

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER

5. Drill the rear frame lower extension and remove it.

SIDE SILL

REAR FRAME LOWER EXTENSION

6. Remove the side sill. Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds in side panel and drill the spot welds using a ø8 (5/16")

spot cutter.

Cut the side panel as shown and remove them.

NOTE: Be careful not to cut the inner section.

SIDE PANEL

Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds in the side sill, front floor, front pillar, and center pillar.

Drill the spot welds using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter. Grind

the

fillet

weld

of the

side

sill/front

and

rear

side frames joint using a rotary cutter.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses wheneve r sanding, cutting or grinding.

REAR SIDE FRAME

SIDE SILL

FRONT SIDE FRAME

SIDE SILL

REAR SIDE FRAME

REAR BULKHEAD CENTER

• Drill the MIG welds (plug welding) using a ø15 (5/8") spot cutter (hole saw type)

FRONT SIDE

FRAME

SIDE SILL

FRONT FLOOR

REAR SIDE FRAME

(cont'd)

Side Sill

Replacement (cont'd)

7. Mold the related parts. Remove the welding flanges using a chisel.

Correct the front floor and inner pillar using a

hammer a nd dolly. Remove the burrs from the spot welds and MIG welds using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

8. Set the new side sill. Remove the undercoat from the welding sections of the side sill and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

9. Tack weld the side sill at the clamp positions.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

NOTE: Check the front and rear side frames positions

using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6).

10. Set the new side panel Align the new part with the top cut section, then cut it with a handsaw. Clamp the side panel in place with vise-grips. Temporarily fender.

NOTE: Check for flushness of the front fender, door,

and the rear fend er and check th e car f o r a smooth body

line.

mount

the

front

fender,

door,

Butt joint

and

rear

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Remove the undercoat and paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contaminations with shop t owel soaked with wax a nd grease remover.

Before setting the side sill, remove the oxide film

from the welding section of the replacement part

and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

NOTE: Keep the body level.

Clamp the new side sill in place with screw clamps.

Remove the new side panel.

11. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safely shoes.

Before welding, perform the trial welding following

the welder manufacturer's instructions.

Remove the oxide film from the welding sections using a stainless steel wire brush. The applicable welding methods are the MIG welding, plug welding, or fil let welding. Check the welding sections for cracks (see page

2-29).

Weld the floor.

Weld the side sill rear.

SIDE SILL

REAR SIDE FRAME

Weld the side sill front.

FRONT PILLAR INNER LOWER

SIDE SILL

REAR SIDE FRAME

SIDE SILL

FRONT SIDE FRAME

(cont'd)

Side Sill

Replacement ( c o n t ' d )

12. Weld the new side panel (see page 4-21).

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves a nd s af e ty s h o es .

Drill the ø8 (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding flange of the new side panel.

Remove the undercoat from the welding sections of the side panel and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

Before welding, remove the oxide film from the welding section using a stainless steel wire brush.

MIG/plug weld the side sill of the outer panel and

butt weld at the top of the outer panel. Attach a tab to the butt welding section as shown and weld.

Preheating effect can be obtained by attaching a tab to the butt welding section.

NEW SIDE PANEL

13. Weld the related parts. Weld th e da sh bo ar d lower a n d side f ra m e oute r re ar cross member by MIG welding, plug welding, or fillet welding. Weld the rear side frame lower extension.

SIDE FRAME OUTER REAR

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER

TAB

REAR SIDE FRAME LOWER EXTENSION

TAB

14. Finish the welding area. Roughly grind the wel ds w it h a disc grinder. Be s ur e

to leave the finishing allowance this time.

Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety gl asses whenever s and ing, cutting or grinding.

Finish the butt weld by removing the tab. Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds. Take care not to grind excessively.

Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy particles, replace with a new disc.

Finish the butt welded door opening of the outer panel with a disc sander and putty.

15. A p p l y the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the side sill, front floor, dashboard lower, and side panel.

16. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

17. Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Undercoat the front floor, etc. and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side sill, front and center pillars, etc.

18. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Adjust the door striker and check the door lock operation.

19. Check and clean. Check the electrical parts for proper operation.

Clean the passenger compartment.

Front Floor

Description

The f r on t f l o o r is t he c ri ti ca l part w hi ch c onnects t h e right a nd left a nd f ro nt and rear o f t h e cabin an d where t he d riv er a nd a ssis tant

ride. During replacement, weld securely following the welder manufacturer's instructions.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Spot Weld Fillet Weld Slot plug weld

Front floor and Rear bulkhead center

Front floor, Dashboard lower and Lower cross member

Dashboard lower and Lower cross member

Front floor and

Dashboard lower

Front floor and Front side frame

Front floor and Rear bulkhead center

Dashboard lower, Lower cross member and Front side frame

Front floor, Dashboard lower cross member

and Side sill

Dashboard lower cross member and Side sill

Front floor and Side sill

Front floor, Front side frame and Side sill

Front floor and Side sill

(4-plate welding)

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Driver's and passenger's seat Carpet Hand brake assembly

NOTE: With a side sill removed (one side).

Do not smoke while working near the f ue l sys te m. Keep o pe n f l a me a wa y fr o m t h e fu e l system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an approved container.

2. Remove the front floor. Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the dashboard lower and rear bulkhead center. Drill the spot welds using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter. Grind the MIG/fillet welds using a rotary cutter.

To prevent injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

DASHBOARD LOWER

Remove the spot welds and fillet welds using a

chisel.

Do not drill through the side sill. Smooth the welding sections of the dashboard lower and rear bulkhead with a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshape parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

REAR BULKHEAD CENTER

REAR SIDE

FRAME

FRONT SIDE

FRAME

3. Set th e new fr ont f loor. Drill the ø8 (5/16") plug weld holes in the welding

flange of the new front floor. Remove the undercoat from the welding section of the front floor and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Hear the undercoat at the bottom of the body using a gas torch, and remove it thoroughly with a knife.

Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body using a disc sander and clean oil contaminations with a shop towel soaked with a wax and grease r e m o v e r .

Before setting the new front floor, clean the welding sections of the front floor and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

(cont'd)

Front Floor

Replacement (cont'd)

Clamp the front floor, side sill, dashboard lower, and

rear bulkhead center with screw clamps. Weld the clamped sections for temporary installation.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves an d safety s ho e s.

SIDE SILL

4. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions. Remove the oxide film from the welding sections using a stainless steel wire brush. The applicable welding methods are MIG/plug welding or fillet welding. Check the welding sections for cracks (see page

2-29).

FRONT

SIDE FRAME

Finish the welding area.

Roughly grind the welds using a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance this time.

Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc

sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or sa fet y glasses wh enever sanding, cutting or grinding.

DASHBOARD LOWER

Take care not to grind the aluminum alloy base while roughly grinding the welds. Take care not to grind excessively.

Do not press on the sanding tools excessively. If

the disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

6. Apply the sealer (see section 7). Apply sealer to the mating surface with the front floor.

7. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint con taine r. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropri-

ate clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

Apply the undercoat (see section 5).

Undercoat the front floor, etc. and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side sill,

side frame and dashboard lower.

9. Install the related parts .

10. Check and clean. Check the seats for movement. Perform the brake test. Clean the passenger compartment.

Front Assembly

Description

The front assembly is critical for the rigidity of t he front compartment and front wheel alignment, as it is integrated with the front wheelhouse. During installation, the dimension shown in the body dimensional drawings. Welding must be performed by using the aluminum alloy MIG welder. Perform the trial welding first following the welder manufacturer's instructions, then weld

properly. NOTE: Do not section frame rails except at manufacturers seams.

Mass Production Body Welding Diagram

Spot W el d

Fillet Weld Slot Plug Weld

Dashboard lower and lower cross member

Dashboard upper and Front pillar inner lower

Dashboard upper (Si de cross member) and Front pillar inner lower

Front f lo o r, Dashboard lower and Lower cros s member

MIG

Front fl oor a nd Dashboard lo wer

Front side frame, Front floor and Dashboard lower cross me mb er

Front side frame and Front floor

Front side frame, Front floor and Side sill

Front side frame and Side sill

Dashboard up p e r (Side cros s memb er) and Side panel (4-plate welding)

Front side frame and Side sill

Front wheelhouse and Front inner lower pillar

Front side frame and Front inner lower pillar

Front side frame and Side s ill

Front side frame, Front inner lower pillar and Side panel

Front side frame, Side si ll an d Side panel

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Front suspension related parts Brake hoses and pipes Front compartment electrical components Fittings in passenger compartment, etc. Windshield Steering column Windshield

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.

Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and the side sill side flanges.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety

stand location points.

To protect th e car body f r o m dama ge, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps.

Before cutting off the damaged sections, pull them out so that they are restored to the original shape. Cutting off front assembly before roughly pulling out the damage makes repair of the related front floor, front pillar, and other related parts difficult.

Peel off the undercoat.

Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower dashboard, front floor and side sill with a gas torch and peel off with a metal spatula.

CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the passenger compartment when heating.

It might be necessary to heat the damaged sections with an acetylene torch before pulling the them out

(see page 2-31).

NOTE: Pull out until the pillar is lined up with the

surface of the windshield.

FRONT ASSEMBLY

After pulling, check the damper housing and the side

frame positions using the body dimensional draw-

ings (see section 6).

4. Remove the dashboard upper extension on each side.

DASHBOARD UPPER

EXTENSION

(cont'd)

Front Ass e mb l y

Replacement (cont'd)

5. Remove the side frame outer rear and dashboard lower

cross member on each side.

SIDE FRAME OUTER REAR

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER

6. Remove the dashboard upper (side cross member) on

each side.

7. Remove the wheelhouse and side frame on each side.

DASHBOARD UPPER (CROSS MEMBER)

WHEELHOUSE

FRONT PILLAR INNER LOWER

SIDE SILL

DASHBOARD LOWER CROSS MEMBER

SIDE FRAME OUTER REAR

FRONT SIDE FRAME

8. Remove the dashboard lower.

DASHBOARD LOWER

9. Remove the front assembly. Grind the fillet welds of the side frame-and-side sill

joint using a rotary cutter as shown.

Peel off the welding flange using the chisel. Remove the burrs from the drilled sections with a

disc grinder or disc sander.

11. Set the new front assembly. Drill the ø8~ø10 (5/16"~3/8") holes for spot welding in the welding flange.

Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the

welding section and expose the aluminum alloy base

using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear go ggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

FRONT PILLAR

INNER LOWER

FRONT FLOOR

SIDE SILL

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean off any oil contaminations using a shop towe l soaked with wax and grease remover.

Just before setting the front assembly, remove the

oxide film from the welding surface of the replacement part and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

FRONT

ASSEMBLY

10. Mold the related parts. Reshape the front pillar-and-front floor joint using a hammer and dolly.

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

Keep the body level.

SIDE SILL

END

Tighten the front assembly against the front pillar and side sill using the vise-grips, pliers, etc.

Place a jack under the front side frame end on each side and support it, and measure the positions for temporary attachment.

Check over the body dimensions.

(cont'd)

Front Assembly

Replacement (cont'd)

12. MIG weld the several points in the clamped sections a nd temporarily fix the front assembly.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Measure the dimension, temporarily install the hood and fender, and check for difference in level and clearance.

Install the windshield and check for proper installa-

tion and alignment.

13. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety shoes.

Before welding, perform the trial welding following the welder manufacturer's instructions. Clean the welding section with a stainless steel wire brush before welding.

The applicable welding methods in this step shall

be the MIG welding, plug welding, and fillet w eld -

ing.

Check the welding section for cracks (see page

2-29).

Weld the side frame and side sill on each side.

Weld the dashboard upper (cross member) on each side.

Weld the side frame and wheelhouse on each side.

FRONT PILLAR INNER LOWER

SIDE SILL

DASHBOARD UPPER (CROSS MEMBER)

WHEELHOUSE

FRONT SIDE FRAME

FRONT

ASSEMBLY

Weld the dashboard lower.

DASHBOARD LOWER

SIDE SILL

END

14. Install and weld the related parts on each side.

DASHBOARD LOWER

CROSS MEMBER

16. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

17. Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Undercoat the front floor, etc. and apply anti-rust agent

to the inside of the welding section of the front side sill,

front pillar, etc.

18. Install the related parts. Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.

19. Inspect, check and make adjustment.

Measure the front wheel alignment. Inspect the brake system.

Adjust the headlight aim.

DASHBOARD UPPER

EXTENSION

Check the welding sections for cracks (see page

2-29).

15. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the dashboard

lower, etc.

Rear Fender

Replacement

NOTE: After installing the rear fender, check the clearance

and difference in level between the rear fender and door

panel, rear hatch, trunk lid, rear bumper, and rear combination l i g ht .

1. Remove the related parts. Inner fender

Side sill panel Air intake duct Side air scoop

Fuel cap adapter and fuel lid latch Rear bumper Rear pillar panel

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual body and fuel sections.

Mask parts with tape.

Apply the masking tape to the parts of the side panel,

rear hatch, and trunk lid, that are adjacent to the rear

fender to protect the painted surfaces from damage.

Remove the mounting bolts from the rear fender.

NOTE:

Use the DACRO coated or DACRO & TORQUERcoated genuine Honda bolts and screws (see page

3-4).

Do not used any bolts that have lost the DACRO

coating, as it results in corrosion.

REAR FENDER

Mounting Bolts Torque: 6X1.0mm 13N-m (1.3kg-m, 9lb-ft)

CORROSION RESISTANT BOLT

INNER FENDER

4. Paint the reverse side of the new rear fender.

See Paint Repair secti on.

7. Apply the undercoat (see section 7). Undercoat inside the rear fender and top of the rear

wheelhouse.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint con-

tains substances that are harmful if inhaled or

swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

5. Set the rear fender. Partially tighten the center pillar and wheelhouse bolts

and check for differences in level and clearance between th e rear f e nd e r an d door pa nel , rear ha tc h, and trunk lid.

8. Apply the paint.

See Paint Repair s ection.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before open-

ing paint container.

Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

10. Install the related parts.

Install in the reverse order of removal.

11. Check and make adjustments. Check the electrical wiring f or connect ion and lights and gauges for proper operation.

6. Tighten fully. Be sure that the rear fender is set properly and

tighten the bolts securely.

Apply the spot sealer t o the mounting bolt positions.

Rear Panel

Description

The rear panel is joined to the rear side outer panel and

rear floor, and maintains the rigidity of both sides of the rear body. It must be welded carefully.

Mass Production Body w e ld i n g Diagram

Spot Weld Fillet Weld Slot Plug Weld

Rear panel and Rear side panel

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Rear bumper Trunk lid lock and its attachments Other related parts Taillight and rear panel garnish

Rear fender

2. Pull out and straighten damaged area. Pull out the related rear side inner panel, rear floor, rear side frame and other damaged parts with the frame straightener. Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up points on the bottom of the side sill and the side sill side flanges. To protect th e car body f ro m damage, place a piece

of aluminum plate on each clamping section and

tighten the clamp.

Before pulling out the damaged section, it might be necessary to heat the section with an acetylene torch (see page 2-31).

3. Keep the body level.

Jack up the body at t he f ront and back and place safety stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

Rear panel and Rear side panel

Rear panel and Side fr am e

Rear panel and Rear floor

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety stand location points.

REAR PANEL

4. Cut and pry off the rear panel. Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the

rear inside panel and rear floor.

Drill the spot welds using a ø10 (3/8") spot cutter. Grind the MIG/fillet weld using a rotary cutter. Take care not to drill to the rear floor.

Remove the welding flanges using a chisel. Smooth t he d a m ag e d s ec ti on s o n th e re a r fl o o r, e tc. with a hammer a nd doll y.

It might be necessary to replace the trunk side gutter this time.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

TRUNK SIDE GUTTER

6. Set the new rear panel. Paint

the inside

of the

panel

with

the

body color.

See Paint Repair section.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container.

Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved

respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

Drill the ø8~ø10 (5/16"~3/8") holes for plug

welding in the welding flange of the replacement

panel.

Remove the undercoat from the welding section of the panel and expose the aluminum alloy base using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

5. Mold the related parts. Smooth the welding flange of the rear side panel, rear

floor and rear side frame end.

TRUNK SIDE GUTTER

REAR SIDE PANEL

REAR SIDE

FRAME

REAR FLOOR

Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contamination with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

Before setting the new panel, remove the oxide film f r o m t h e w e l d i n g s e c t i o n o f t h e r e p l a c e m e n t part

and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

Install the new rear panel and clamp it with the

vise-grips.

Check the rear panel position using the body dimen-

sional drawings (see section 6).

NOTE: Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

(cont'd)

Rear Panel

Replacement (cont'd)

7. Tack weld the rear panel.

To prevent eye injury and burns

when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,

gloves and sa fet y shoe s.

Open and close the trunk lid to check for proper installation. Position the rear panel in its correct position with the rear bumper and rear fenders installed.

8. Perform the main welding.

To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and s afety shoes.

Before welding, perform the trial welding following

the welder manufacturer's instructions.

Remove the oxide film from the welding sections using a stainless steel wire brush.

The applicable welding methods are MIG welding,

plug welding, and fillet we ld in g.

Check the welding sections for cracks (see page

2-29).

9. Finish the welding area. Roughly grind the wel ds w it h a disc grind er. Be su re

to leave the finishing allowance this time.

Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc

sander until it is smooth.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or s af et y glasses w he ne ve r sand ing, cutting or grinding.

Take car e not t o grind t he a lumi nu m alloy b ase w hi l e

roughly grinding the welds.

Take care not to grind excessively.

Do not press on the sanding tools excessiv ely. If t he

disc face is clogged with the aluminum alloy

particles, replace with a new disc.

10. Apply the sealer (see section 5). Apply sealer to the rear side outer joint and around the taillight areas of the rear panel. Apply sealer to the rear panel and rear floor j oint.

11. Apply the paint.

See Paint R epair s e ct io n.

Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint

contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening paint container. Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.

Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and

keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.

12. Ap ply anti-rust agent (see section 7).

13. Install the related parts.

Install in the reverse order in which they w ere removed.

14. Inspect, check, and clean. Adjust the clearance with the trunk lid, then adjust the level differences and fit. Check foration. Test for leaks in the trunk compartment.

Clean the trunk floor.

Rear Floor

Description

The rear floor is the base of the rear body and it is critical for the rigidity of the rear body. During replacement, refer to the body dimensional drawings and determine the position to set the rear floor properly. Be sure that the rear floor is not bent or deformed. Weld securely following the welder manufacturer's instructions to maintain the rigidity of the body.

Mass Production Body welding Diagram

Spot Weld

Fillet Weld

Slot Plug Weld

4-plate welding

Rear floor and Trunk front panel

Rear floor, Trunk front

panel and Rear floor cross member

Rear floor and Rear floor cross member

Rear floor and Rear side frame

R. side

Rear floor and

Trunk front panel

L=20

Rear floor and Trunk front panel

Rear floor and Rear side frame (Wheelhouse)

Rear floor and Rear floor cross member

Rear floor, Rear side frame

and Rear floor cross member

Rear floor and Rear side frame (Wheelhouse)

Rear floor and Rear side frame

Rear floor and Rear side panel

Rear floor and

Rear side frame (Wheelhouse)

Rear floor and

Side frame end

Rear Floor

Replacement

1. Remove the related parts. Trim garnish, etc. in the trunk compartment Rear suspension assembly, R/L, rear dampers, rear lower arm, rear radius rod Exhaust silencer Wire harness Others

2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area. Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the

jack-up points on the bottom of t he side sill and t he

side sill side fla nges . To protect the car body from damage, place a piece of aluminum plate on each clamping section and tighten the clamps. The collision damage may extend to the rear frame,

rear cross member, and rear wheelhouse. Check for the damaged sections carefully and pull them out with the frame straightener to reshape.

Before pulling out the damaged sections, it might be

necessary to heat the sections with an acetylene torch (see page 2-31).

Therefore, pull out the damaged area with the frame

straightener and measure. Refer to body dimen-

sional drawings (see section 6).

3. Peel off the undercoat. Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower rear

floor w it h a gas t or ch and peel off t h e undercoat with a

metal spatula.

4. Remove the rear panel (see page 4-50).

5. Cut and pry off the rear floor panel. Strike a punch in the center of the spot welds to the rear side frame, rear side panel, and trunk front panel.

Drill the spot welds using a (ø10 (3/8") spot cutter.

Take care not to drill to the rear side frame.

Drill through the rear side panel as it is used for the welding hole.

TRUNK FRONT PANEL

NOTE: Use of a positioning jig is recommended (see

page 1-7).

POSITIONING JIG

REAR FL OOR

REAR SIDE

PANEL

Remove the welding flange using a chisel. Correct the damage on the rear side frame, etc.

Remove the burrs from the spot weld or MIG weld

using a sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

6. Mold the related parts. Smooth the welding flange of the rear side frame, rear side panel and trunk front panel.

NOTE:

If necessary, remove the frame end flanges. Check the reshaped parts for cracks (see page

2-29).

8. Set the new rear floor and the frame end flange. Drill the ø8~ø10 (5/16"~3/8") holes for plug

welding in the welding surfaces of the rear floor.

Remove the undercoat from the welding section of

the rear floor and expose the aluminum alloy base

using a disc sander.

To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.

Remove the paint film from the welding section of the body and clean oil contamination with a shop towel soaked with wax and grease remover.

Before setting the rear floor, remove the oxide film from the welding sections of the replacement panel

and body using a stainless steel wire brush.

Set the rear floor and check it is parallel to the

ground at the right and left of the rear frames.

REAR SID E

FRAME

Keep the body level. Jack up the front and back of the body and place, s a f et y stands at the four designated places of the side sills.

NOTE: Refer to the NSX Service Manual for safety

stand location points.

9. Check the position of the rear frames and rear floor using the body dimensional drawings and the position-

ing

jig.

(cont'd)

Acura NSX 1994, NSX 1993, NSX 1992, NSX 1991 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual