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User Guide
rev. 2018/09
Fully 3d printable
F-86A Sabre
electro ducted fan airplane
scale ~1:7,3, wingspan 1427mm (55.7 inch)
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F-86A Sabre – fully printable R/C plane for your desktop 3Dprinter
Future of flying - Print your own plane. Speedy guide
We’re still trying to move things further, so this project is again full of improvements
for better durability, easier assembly, better geometry solution and more..., we hope you
enjoy it, although this print may test your abilities and quality of your printer...
Welcome to the thin wall printing!
The first fully printable airplanes with files prepared for your 3Dprinter, with
flight characteristics, comparable or even supperior to classic build model airplane.
This is not a dream, now you can print this HI-TECH at home. Simply download and print
the whole plane or spare parts anytime you need just for a cost of filament only about $40
Extensive hi-tech 3d structural reinforcement making the model very
rigid while maintaining a lightweight airframe and exact airfoil even it’s just a plastic. This
perfect and exact 3d structure is possible only thanks to additive 3dprinting technology. So
welcome to the 21st century of model flying and be the first at your airfield.
Easy to assemble, you don’t need any extra tools or hardware, simply glue the
printed parts together and make pushrods for controls. The rest of the assembly is
very easy. Simply add brushless EDF, ESC, servos and radio system. Detailed step by step
PDF/VIDEO userguide is included.
We designed this aircraft the way you don’t need any nuts or aditional joining elements, just
click all printed parts together.
You will get a great performing training and durable airplane able to withstand even hard
landings (easily changeable landing gear). Our F-86A Sabre is a spin-stall proof plane even
in low speed tight turn.
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General specifications:
Length: 1427mm / 55.7 inch
Wingspan: 1427mm / 55.7 inch
Height: 560 mm / 21.8 inch
Wing area: 45,76 dm2 / 4.92 sq foot
Wing loading: 104 g/dm2 / 28 oz at sq foot
Center of gravity: 248mm (9.68 inch) from LE
See CG tags on wings...
Airfoil: 3DLabPrint modified
Print weight: 2485 g / 87.6 oz
Empty weight (w/o battery): 3900 g / 137.5 oz
Takeo weight (2x 3s 3700 lipo): 4760 g / 167.9 oz
Max takeo weight: 5500 g / 194.0 oz
Never exceed speed, VNE: 200 km/h / 125 mph
Design maneuvering speed, VA: 120 km/h / 75 mph
Stall speed: 50 km/h / 15 mph
Powerplant
EDF: 90mm for 6S (or 8S) Li-Pol
Motor: 1750kV
ESC: 100A Electronic Speed Controller
or similar 80-100Amps
Battery: 2x Li-Pol 6200mAh/3s (40-65C),
at least 451g / 17.9oz, 65C
(fuselage space for 3000-6200mAh packs)
Performance measurement
Max speed VH (level flight): 150 km/h
80 kn
90 mph with 6s Li-Pol
Rate of climb: 46 m/s (10 673 ft/min)
Flight time (2x 3s 6200mAh): 11:00min
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F-86A Sabre, History
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The North American F-86 Sabre, is a transonic jet fighter aircraft. Produced by North American
Aviation, the Sabre is best known as the United States‘ first swept wing fighter that could
counter the swept-wing Soviet MiG-15 in high-speed dogfights in the skies of the Korean
War (1950–1953), fighting some of the earliest jet-to-jet battles in history. Considered one
of the best and most important fighter aircraft in that war, the F-86 is also rated highly in
comparison with fighters of other eras. Although it was developed in the late 1940s and was
outdated by the end of the 1950s, the Sabre proved versatile and adaptable and continued as
a front-line fighter in numerous air forces.
Its success led to an extended production run of more than 7,800 aircraft between 1949 and
1956, in the United States, Japan, and Italy. Variants were built in Canada and Australia. The
Sabre is by far the most-produced Western jet fighter, with total production of all variants at
9,860 units.
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Included:
1. STL 3d files
Universal STL files designed for use with desktop FMD 3d printers and slicer software such
as Simplify3D (recommended) CURA or MatterControl (these STLs are not compatible with
Slic3r or Makerware slicers).
2. Factory files for Simplify3D slicer
with all our settings, these Factory files include all you need. Note: we‘re using PRUSA i3
ORIGINAL printers so you may need to adjust the basic printing parameters to match your
printer or use it as a starting point for you. Please check the
Simplify3D
3. Step By Step PDF/VIDEO userguides
Apart from this userguide, please read / watch the Printing Guide with some Tips and Advice
for airplane printing (Thin Wall Printing) and the Help section of the website.
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4. Gcodes
Basic Gcodes prepared for direct use, as universal as possible. Should work with i3 style
printers. We cannot guarantee that it will work with your printer, but they‘re 100% compatible
with PRUSA i3 ORIGINAL 3d printers.
5. Prepared settings for CURA and MatterControl slicers
If you don‘t like Simplify3D for any reason, there is the possibility to use another free slicer.
Please check the Help section or the latest Cura settings.
6. Scale markings PDF
Print this scale PDF on a thin self adhesive advertisement foil and place it on the model as
required. Violet cut lines included.
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Centre of Gravity
Wing area: 45,76 dm2 / 4.92 sq foot
Lenght: 1427mm / 55.7 inch
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Wing span: 1427mm / 55.7 inch
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Step By Step PDF/VIDEO userguide
1. Choose airplane at www.3Dlabprint.com. Our Facebook for live information.
Basic requirements for F-86A Sabre is 200/200/175mm build
volume. recommended nozzle size 0.4mm (alternatively
0.35 - 0.5mm), heated bed is very recommended.
PLA filament (or PETG, APLA, htPLA, PC-max.... not ABS) and
some flex for tires...
If unsure you meet the requirements, you can download and
try to print test part from our FORUM (usualy the biggest part)
2. Create account, download
You’ll receive the download link for all files via e-mail automatically right after the payment
has been completed or you can log in to your account and download directly from our
website. If you don’t receive the download link within few
seconds after the payment has been confirmed, please contact us on [email protected].
3. Gcodes preparing
option A Gcodes:
IYou can use the precompiled gcodes if your printer is compatible with Prusa i3. Simply save
each file to SD card and let 3d printer do it‘s job. For best layer adhesion is the HE temperature
set to 230°C. You can edit speed and temperature through your printer LCD or add a custom
start script to the beginning of the Gcode if needed. Please proceed with the other options if
the precompiled gcodes doesn‘t work for you.
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option B Factory files Simplify3D (recommended)
We prepared all you need in these files (basic FFF profiles, parts layout, and so on...)
You can use our settings as a starting point and edit according to your printer needs, print
only the spare parts, etc... It should work as it is for most printers, but please go through the
settings and edit it as needed. We are not liable for any damage resulting from the use of
our settings. If for any reason this does not work for you, please proceed to the next option.
option C Simplify3D manual setting (watch and learn)
Use our Guide to build your own factory file. This is a very good option to learn a lot
about Simplify3D and become a 3D expert. Of course you spend a lot of time and the YouTube pause button will become your best friend. For simplification we show only our basic
setting (wings and fuselage), please use our prepared Factory files as a reference for the rest
of parts, like motor mounts, control surfaces, etc.
AND... please look at VideoGuides:
video 2 Simplify3D setting
video about Thin Wall Printing
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option D CURA or MatterControl (considered as the last resort, we recommend Simplify3D)
MatterControl and CURA are free and provide good results. The airframe is still strong
enough, but don‘t expect the best quality. Both slicers lacks some very useful features, and
finer settings, like multiple processes according to Z height, retraction options, layer start,
etc. Please try to find the best extrusion multiplier and temperature for good weight and
best possible layer bonding. Look at parts weight list for proper multiplier settings.
You can also use our predefined CURA or MC (works only with older versions see info in
videoguide) slicer setting file included in the package (always adapt it for your printer, change
build volume, filament diameter and so on... depends on your printer!!!):
CURA_wing_fuse.ini (wing and fuselage (expect1) parts) + CURA_wing_tip.ini
CURA_ailer_elev.ini (only ailerons, elevator and rudder parts)
CURA_thick.ini (fuselage1 only, struts, holders, landing gear... )
OR
MC_wing_fuse.slice (wing and fuselage (expect1) parts) + MC_wing_tip.slice
MC_ailer_elev.slice (only ailerons, elevator and rudder parts)
MC_thick.slice (fuselage1 only, struts, holders, landing gear... )
AND... please look at VideoGuides or Help for up to date info:
Cura not slicing internal structure
CNC kitchen (Cura setting)
video CURA slicer setting CURA 2.3.1 import setting
video CMatterControl slicer setting
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4. Print it
Save generated Gcodes and insert SD card to your printer, prepare your printer and start
printing. We prefer to use SD rather than a direct connection via USB. Note: ABS filament is
not suitable for this. Scaling the model will lead to unusable result!
Note: ninja flex or similar fillaments can stick very hard to PEI based surfaces, be careful...
Video guide about printing:
You will need: PLA filament - good quality and strong PLA (we need good layer bonding)
Strong hair spray (or your favorite adhesive bed surface)
Razor blade
(disregard with PEI or simmilar bed surface, Mk2...)
AND... please watch the VideoGuides:
video printing guide
F-86A Sabre - parts diagram:
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Basic Tips and Advice
Please experiment with your extrusion multiplier to achieve the same weights as in the list.
HotEnd temperature is very important for a strong result. The reason is the plastic leaving
the nozzle has to melt the previous layer to create solid joint. Please try increasing the
temperature
to find the best value (215° up to 260° Celsius). Turn OFF cooling fan (Heatbreak
fan of course has to be left ON). Thin walls easily cools down on its own and the cooling fan
worsens the layer bonding. You can use cooling fan for thick parts if needed...
Heated bed is very recommended, use 50-60° Celsius to print without warping ends.
Any standard quality PLA is suitable to print our planes, but the result depends on combination
of PLA vs. Extruder vs. HotEnd.
Some colors and brands of filament has lower layer adhesion, please do experiment with it.
There are a lot of 3dprinters on the market, most of them are OK for printing our aircraft
(specific thin wall printing...) with sucient volume, heated bed, 0.4 mm nozzle.
Please see the FAQ and our Forum for more information:
Need a help? our Forum is the best place... where the comunity can help you
How to print tyres?
Slowly! We have the best results with Treed
Flexmark 7. Perfect material for F-86A tyres but
really hard to print it. Your printer has to be set
for maximum printing speed of 20mm/s. You
can find all the tested process settings in our
factory files.
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5. Assembling the printed parts
5.1 Wing assembly
For perfect alignment glue the wing parts L1 and L2 (R1 and R2) on a flat surface. Do the same
with parts L3 and L4 (R3 and R4). Start glueing wing on center section, L1-L4 and R1-R4. Glue
both sides with CA glue together (position locks and pins will help you), use the activator.
Continue with the rest of the parts of the wing symetrical on boths sides (L5/R5 - L10/R10).
You can use snap knife to clear the printed parts (mostly for the landing gear and ailerons
installation), but usually this is not necessary.
Glue together all parts of flaps L1 and L2 (R1 and R2) and ailerons L1-L4 (R1-R4) and use
suitable 0,8 mm carbon rod or wire as a hinge. Try if you could easily push the 8 mm wing
carbon spar inside the wing slot.
See video guide #4
you will need: CA Glue - medium or similar medium viscosity CA glue
Activator for CA Glue or similar, but gas presurized aerosol is better
Snap knife
0,8 mm carbon or steel wire
R wing completed
aileron L 1
19g/0.75oz
wing L 7
44g/1.74oz
aileron L 2
18g/0.71oz
wing L 8
35g/1.38oz
aileron L 3
9g/0.24oz
wing L 9
15g/0.59oz
wing L 1
40g/1.58oz
wing L 2
9g/0.24oz
wing L 3
50g/1.98oz
wing L 4
63g/2.50oz
wing L 5
83g/3.29oz
flap L 1
18g/0.71oz
flap L 2
18g/0.71oz
wing L 6
63g/2.50oz
aileron L 4
3g/0.12oz
wing L 10
3g/0.12oz
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5.2. Fuselage assembly
Glue together the fuselage parts with CA glue (position locks and pins will help you) use the
activator. You can use snap knife to clean the shape of printed parts, but mostly this is not
necessary.
Glue together F1-F6 fuselage parts. Insert pen spring to F7 part, insert canopy lock, glue F7
to fuselage and test a canopy lock functionality. Glue the rest of the fuselage parts F8-F12.
Glue the canopy parts 1-4 together and test the perfect fit with fuselage and canopy lock
functionality.
NOTE: Don‘t glue the tailparts yet !!! (for rudder, elevator and stabilizers proceed to the next
step)
See video guide #5
You will need: CA Glue - medium or similar medium viscosity CA glue
Activator for CA Glue or similar, but gas presurized aerosol is better
1x ballpoint pen spring (a spring from old ballpoint pen will work fine)
Snap knife
Soldering Iron or any hot tool
F1
16g/0.63oz
120g/4.76oz
F2
canopy 1
42g/ 1.66oz
equipment holder
F3
110g/4.36oz
170g/6.74oz
canopy 2
48g/ 1.90oz
15g/0.52oz
F4
canopy 3
42g/ 1.66oz
F5
140g/5.55oz
canopy 4
28g/ 1.11oz
F6
152g/6.03oz
canopy lock
12g/0.42oz
F7
95g/3.76oz
F3
60x pins
F8
89g/3.53oz
70g/2.77oz
125mm/4.92inch
108mm/4.25inch
F9
65g/2.57oz
EDF Unit
70g/2.77oz
F10
F11
F12
30g/1.19oz
F5
EDF mount ring
26g/0.91oz
EDF mount ring
EDF ring fills the space
betwen mount and unit.
Adjust the length of this
part if needed.
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5.3. Fuselage tail - rudder, elevator pushrods and servos
Now it‘s a good time to install the tail stabilizers, elevator, rudder and pushrods. You can
use snap knife to clean the shape of printed parts. Glue together the horizontal and vertical
stabiliser and glue it to the fuselage. UP side of vertical stabiliser is marked. Glue the rudder
and elevator. For hinge use shaped 0,8 mm / 14AWG pushrod wire or carbon rod. You can
clear the holes using hot wire.
See video guide #6
You will need: CA Glue - medium viscosity CA glue
Activator for CA Glue or similar, but gas presurized aerosol is better
0,8 mm /14AWG pushrod wire or carbon rod
1,2 mm / 16 AWG pushrod wires
Wire cutter, Z bend pliers or pliers.
Snap knife
Soldering Iron or any hot tool
V stabiliser 3
3g/0.11oz
V stabiliser 2
16g/0.63oz
ver. stabiliser 1
19g/0.75oz
rudder 1234
30g/1.19oz
hor. stabilizer L 1
21g/0.83oz
elevator L 1234
25g/0.99oz
hor. stabilizer L 2
12g/0.47oz
hor. stabilizer L 3
3g/0.11oz
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air brake R 1, R 2
18g/0.71oz
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6.1. Servos for aileron, flaps, air brakes, rudder, elevator
Proceed with installing all the servos. Use 1,2 mm wire for pushrods. Make Z bend or use
your preered pushrods fixing method. We like these Pushrod Keepers. Thread pushrods and
hinge the flaps, ailerons, elevators and rudder in correct position.
See video guide #7
You will need: 9x Hitec HS-81/82MG, Corona CS283MG or similar servos
1x Hitec HS-65 MG or
or similar for front leg
6x servo extension cables 300mm / 12 inch
2x servo extension cables 500mm / 20 inch
1,2 mm / 16 AWG pushrod wires
Wire cutter, Z bend pliers or pliers.
HobbyKing™ HK15178 Analog Servo
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7.1 Landing gear - nose, main retracts
Top Quality Retracts
The best retracts set you can buy for your F-86A Sabre are Electron retracts ER-30eVo with
Electron steering system and 4mm leg pins. Great quality, perfect nose leg steering.
Great retracts suitable for any plane. The best on the market.
Standard Retracts
Use standard 33mm x 35mm Servoless Retract with 4mm metal pins. for main legs. For the
nose leg use 33mm x 35mm Servoless Nose Wheel Retract with 4mm metal pin.
NOTE: You can also use any other retract with similar size.
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7.2.1 Landing gear - main legs
Suitable main landing gear legs can be found in this set Alloy Oleo Strut Set with Wheels and
Rubber Tires from Hobbyking. The legs has to be slightly bent to fit into the landing gear slot.
Or you can find or make any other suitable legs with the right lenght and wheel oset
according the diagram below.
25mm/0.97inch
4mm pin
105mm
4.13inch
7.2.2 Landing gear - front leg
One of the main legs in this set Alloy Oleo Strut set w/wheels for 90mm/1.20 Class Jet is
suitable as an ideal front leg, or you can again find or make any other leg with the right lenght
and wheel oset according to the image below
See video guide #8
You will need: fitting screws
1x Hitec HS-65 MG
or HobbyKing™ HK15178 Analog Servo or similar
0-15mm/0-0.58inch
4mm pin
Standard Hobbyking retract with
alloy oleo leg 100mm / 3.90inch.
Electron retracts ER-30eVo
with Electron steering system and
alloy oleo leg 100mm / 3.90inch.
100mm
3.90 inch
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8.1 Electro Ducted Fan propulsion system
Our F-86A Sabre was designed for 90mm EDF. We tested it with 6S and 8S Li-Pol and 3-4kg
thrust. The use of more powerful drives has not been tested or designed for. We do not take
responsibility for using overpowered EDFs. Be careful with the powerplant.
You can use hot wire or dremel tool to prepare the EDF holder in the fuselage. Mount your
EDF, push it well to the outtake and use screws to secure it in place. Measure the distance
betwen intake channel and the EDF. Print the cover ring in measured lenght. Cut it o to the
right dimension and use cabel binder to secure it. Test your power unit.
Top Power
Use top brand carbon EDF with excellent quality and sound, with ESC Jeti Mezon for perfect
telemetry tuned setup.
High Power
12 Blade High-Performance 90mm EDF Unit - high quality thrust and sound with Turnigy
3553-1800 90mm EDF Brushless Fan Motor and 100A ESC.
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Standard Power
Dr Mad Thrust 11-Blade Alloy 90mm - standard quality, not so nice sound.
Mount strap for 90mm Alloy DPS Fan
NOTE: Our Dr Mad Thrust unit arrived without holder, probably you‘ll need it ordered
separatelly Mount strap for 90mm Alloy DPS Fan.
See video guide #9
You will need: 90mm EDF for 6s-8S Li-Pol, 3-4kg thrust, not so long body...
Dr Mad Thrust 11-Blade Alloy 90mm
EDF unit with 1750kv Motor - 90mm
or similar
fitting screws
9.1. Cooling system
Keep your controller cold! Use strong enough 90 - 150 A ESC. Make a short flight and watch
the controller temperature after landing. Cooling vents helps keep the airflow around ESC.
cold air
input
cold air
input
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hot air
output
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10. RC equipment and final assembly
Glue the controller holder and mount it to the fuselage. Install your receiver, connect battery,
setup servos, etc. with your trasmitter, check the throws an neutrals. Set recommended
deflection according to the videoguide. Check CoG point (see CG- tags on wings). Use
820mm/32inch of 8mm carbon tube for wings reinforcement. Carbon tube marks CoG.
Make sure the battery is placed properly and secured. If battery moves mid-flight it can shift
the center of gravity and aircraft will become uncontrollable!
You will need: Your own Rx/Tx system
2x 3S Li-Pol 4000mAh used as serial for 6S
80-100A Electronic Speed Controller
Adhesive velcro strip (or ZIP) for Li-Pol battery and ESC
Scale markings printed on adhesive foil
Battery bays fits 2900 - 6200mAh with 35x65mm profile.
See video guide #10
battery maximal
profile:
35 x 65 mm
1.36 x 2.53 inch
8mm carbon tube
length: 820mm/32inch
Centre of Gravity
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10.2. Flying setup
Setup flight modes on your RC system.
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aileron
+20mm
Start mode
Flaps down for 15°, lower the undercarriage, 30% expo.
Normal mode
all in neutral, lower/retract the undercarriage, 30%
expo
Fast Fly mode
all in neutral, retract the undercarriage, 40% expo, 70%
elevator, rudder, ailerons
Landing (butterfly) mode
lower the undercarriage, flaps full down 45°, ailerons
up +15mm, elevator slightly down -5mm. 30% expo.
You will need about half EDF power for perfect speed.
-20mm
flap
-15mm / 15°
-45mm / 45°
elevator
+18mm
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-18mm
rudder
R 40mm
L 40mm
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11. Pilots Please Attention!
For the first flights we recommend setting the center of gravity to around 5 mm forward
of the CG tag - nose heavy, this increases the stability (you can use heavier battery). Also
increasing the expo settings on your transmitter for elevator and aileron to 60 % calms the
response from your stick inputs or you can decrease elevator and ailerons deflection.
Make sure the battery is well fixed in proper position. If it moves during flight it will cause the
CoG move backwards and can lead to uncontrollable flight behavior.
When you feel comfortable, you can use the suggested balance of the aircraft, and set expo to
30-50 % ... to gain back extra maneuverability. This is not a beginner plane. Be sure you have
enough experience flying RC models before attempting to fly this jet.
Spend at leats 10 hours with RC flight simulator before you go out for the first time.
Flite test: RC Planes for beginners (but note: we use primary ailerons for turn, not only rudder)
See your F-86A Sabre flight video!
Please, use these files only for your own purpose, do not
send it further. Thank you very much. Enjoy your flight.
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Shopping list
Printing material: 2,5 kg of PLA
RC: 12 chanell receiver by your RC system
EDF: Use any 90mm EDF by your choice.
We tested:
12 Blade High-Performance 90mm EDF Unit - high quality
3553-1800 90mm EDF Brushless Fan Motor
Dr Mad Thrust 11-Blade Alloy 90mm - standard quality
or similar for 6S Li-Pol with not so long body...
Mount strap for 90mm Alloy DPS Fan
Controller:
Battery: 2x 3S or 4S Li-Pol 4200-6200mAh used as serial for 6S or 8S
Servos: 9x Hitec HS-81/82MG, Corona CS283MG or similar servos
1x Hitec HS-65 MG or HobbyKing™ HK15178 Analog Servo
or similar
6x servo extension cables 300mm / 12 inch
2x servo extension cables 500mm / 20 inch
Retracts: Electron retracts ER-30eVo or
33mm x 35mm Servoless Retract with 4mm metal pins. for main
Legs: Alloy Oleo Strut Set with Wheels and Rubber Tires (main legs)
Alloy Oleo Strut set w/wheels for 90mm/1.20 Class Jet
(one main as nose leg)
Glue: CA Glue - medium or similar medium viscosity CA glue
Activator for CA Glue or similar,
80-100A Electronic Speed Controller
legs. For the nose leg 33mm x 35mm Servoless Nose Wheel Retract
with 4mm metal pin.
Other: 8mm carbon tube
3x 0,8 mm / 14 AWG pushrod wires or carbon rods
5x 1,2 mm / 16 AWG pushrod wire
fitting screws
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