Volkswagen Jetta 1983 1992 User Manual

VW Golf & Jetta

Service and Repair Manual

Models covered

VW Golf & Jetta Mk 2 models with petrol engines, including fuel injection, catalytic converter, Formel E, 16-valve and special/limited edition models 1043 cc, 1272 cc, 1595 cc & 1781 cc

Covers mechanical features of Van. Does not cover Convertible, Rallye, Caddy, diesel engine, 4 -wheel drive, Mk 1 models or new Golf range introduced in February 1992

I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 282 7

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset

BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

(1081 - 344 - 1AA11)

ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST

1 2 3

LIVING WITH YOUR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF OR JETTA

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•11 Coolant level Page 0•11 Brake fluid level Page 0•12 Power steering fluid level Page 0•12 Screen/headlamp washer fluid level Page 0•13 Wiper blades Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Battery Page 0•15 Electrical systems Page 0•15

Lubricants and fluids Page 0•16 Capacities and tyre pressures Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Servicing specifications Page 1•2 Maintenance schedule:

Vehicles manufactured before August 1985 Page 1•5

Vehicles manufactured after August 1985 Page 1•6 Maintenance - component location Page 1•7 Maintenance procedures Page 1•10

Contents

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - pre August 1985 Page 2A•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985 Page 2B•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve Page 2C•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.8 litre 16 valve Page 2D•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 8 valve engines Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 16 valve engines Page 4C•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Mono Jetronic fuel injection Page 4D•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Digijet fuel injection Page 4E•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Digifant fuel injection Page 4F•1 Ignition system - contact breaker type Page 5A•1 Ignition system - transistorised type Page 5B•1 Ignition system - fully electronic type Page 5C•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5D•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual gearbox Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•17

REFERENCE

Dimensions and Weights Page REF•1 Conversion Factors Page REF•2 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Page REF•3 General Repair Procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and Vehicle Support Page REF•5 Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6 MOT test checks Page REF•8 Fault Finding Page REF•12 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•20

Index Page REF•25

Contents

The Mk. II Volkswagen Golf and Jetta range of models was introduced in March 1984, revised body and trim features being the main visual difference to the earlier range of models.

The engine/transmission is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, drive being to the front wheels. Detailed improvements have been made throughout the years of manufacture to improve power output and economy. These include the introduction of hydraulic

bucket tappets, the Digifant, Digijet and Mono-Jetronic fuel injection systems, the 16-valve engine fitted to the GTi variant, the fully electronic ignition system (FEI), the 085 5-speed gearbox and several other minor modifications and revisions.

As with earlier models the new range is proving popular, giving economy, reliability, comfort and, if previous models can be used as a yardstick, long life.

0•4 Introduction

Your Volkswagen Golf and Jetta Manual

The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data and also to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this Manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

The VW Golf & Jetta Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Ian Coomber

Cristopher Rogers

Sub-editors Carole Turk

Sophie Yar Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans John Martin

Paul Tanswell

Steve Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

VW Golf

VW Jetta

Safety first! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400

C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads.

Check that the HT lead connections at the distributor are clean and make sure they are secure by pushing them onto

the cap.

Check that the HT lead connections at the spark plugs are secure by pushing them onto the plugs.

Check that the LT lead connections are clean and secure.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Wiring plugs may cause problems if dirty or not connected properly.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0•7

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

0•8 Roadside repairs

The spare wheels and tools are stored in the luggage compartment. Release the retaining strap and lift out the jack and

tools from the centre of the wheel.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Locate the jack below the reinforced point on the sill and on firm ground. Turn the jack handle to raise the car until the

wheel is clear of the ground.

Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw in

the wheel bolts. Lightly tighten them using the wheelbrace, then lower the car to the ground.

Once the car is on the ground, tighten the wheel bolts securely in a diagonal pattern

using the wheelbrace. At the earliest possible opportunity, have the wheel bolts slackened and then tightened to the correct torque wrench setting.

Remove the wheel trim/hub cap from the

wheel (some trims have retaining screws

which must be undone first). Slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn.

Unscrew the retaining nut and lift the wheel out of the vehicle.

1 2 3

4 5 6

Preparation

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Roadside repairs 0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Weekly checks

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of

these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

All models

(typical)

Engine oil level

dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion

tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid

reservoir

Screen washer fluid

reservoir

Battery

Underbonnet check points

Weekly checks 0•11

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick is located at the right-hand end of the engine (see “Underbonnet check points” on page 0•10 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a

funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

1 2

3 4

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. When the

engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks on the side of the expansion tank. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the

expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it.

Add the recommended mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion

tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

2 3

0•12 Weekly checks

Brake fluid level

Warning: l Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the front of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.

Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, taking care not to

damage the level switch float. Inspect the reservoir, if the fluid is dirty the hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1).

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use

only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The fluid reservoir is mounted next to the battery in the engine compartment.

“MAX” and “MIN” level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid spillage. Be sure to use only the specified fluid.

After filling the reservoir to the proper level, make sure that the cap is refitted securely to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter into the reservoir.

Weekly checks 0•13

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account use

coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Screen/headlamp washer fluid level

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the

bottle.

The reservoir for the windscreen and headlamp washer systems is located on the

left-hand side of the engine compartment, forward of the suspension turret. The rear screen washer system reservoir is located on the right-hand side rear corner of the luggage compartment. Later systems have a single reservoir located in the engine compartment.

Check the operation of both screen and headlamp washers. Adjust the nozzles using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a point slightly above the centre of the swept area.

a = 345 mm b = 420 mm c = 320 mm d = 300 mm

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it

locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab with your fingers and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well. To remove the blade, depress the retaining tab and slide the

blade out of the hooked end of the arm.

0•14 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks 0•15

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A) to ensure good electrical connections.

You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

. . . as well as the battery cable clamps

Electrical systems

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed.

If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located under the facia panel, on the right-hand side, behind a removable cover.

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating

(see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

0•16 Lubricants and fluids

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant or fluid

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 20W/50

Duckhams QXR, QS, Hypergrade Plus or Hypergrade

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors.

Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant. Mixture 50% by volume

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80

Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

Final drive:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80

Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP

Duckhams Hypoid 90S or Hypoid 75W/90S

Brake hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 11 6 DOT 4

Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Power steering system:

pre-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

post-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . VW oil G 002 000

No Duckhams equivalent

Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The higher the engine’s performance, the greater the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as well as optimise power and economy. Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest technical standards, meeting and exceeding the demands of all modern engines.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating friction

Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special additives, forms a molecular barrier between moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat build-up.

• Cooling hot spots

Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion chamber and pistons, where temperatures may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in

transferring the heat to the engine cooling system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.

• Cleaning the inner engine

Oil washes away combustion by-products (mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders, transporting them to the oil filter, and holding the smallest particles in suspension until they are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory, and on the road.

Engine oil types

Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils, generally suited to older engines and cars not used in harsh conditions. Duckhams Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well suited for use in most popular family cars. Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are specially formulated for Diesel engines, including turbocharged models and 4x4s. Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS, for use in ultra-high performance engines. Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance engine protection, but at less cost than full synthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.

For help with technical queries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils on 0181 290 8207

Choosing your engine oil

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Capacities and tyre pressures 0•17

Component or system Capacity

Engine:

1.05 & 1.3 litre:

rocker-finger type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres with filter change

2.5 litres without filter change

hydraulic tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres with filter change

3.0 litres without filter change

1.6 & 1.8 litre:

pre-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres with filter change

3.0 litres without filter change

post-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres with filter change

3.5 litres without filter change

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres

Manual gearbox:

084 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 litres

085 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

020 4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres

020 5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litres from dry

3.0 litres service drain & fill

Final drive:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Included in gearbox capacity

Automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 litre

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.0 litres

Tyre pressures (tyres cold)

Capacities

Front Rear

1.05 & 1.3 litre models:

Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in

) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

1.6 & 1.8 litre models:

Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in

) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

0•18

Notes

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor

drivebelt(s) check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Antifreeze concentration check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Automatic transmission and final drive fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Brake pad and rear shoe lining check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Clutch operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Contact breaker point renewal and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Contact breaker point check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

CV joint and boot check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Fluid leakage and engine electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Fuel and brake line, hose and union check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Fuel system control linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Hinge and catch lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Ignition timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Light, direction indicator and horn check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Lock, hinge and latch mechanism check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Slow running adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Steering gear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Sunroof guide rails cleaning and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Vehicle underbody check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

1•2 Servicing specifications

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Lubricants, fluids and capacities Refer to the end of “Weekly checks” Engine

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101/C160

Valve clearances

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines - pre August 1985: Warm:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.30 mm

Cold:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm

Hydraulic tappet free travel

1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985, 1.6 and 1.8 litre (Maximum travel) . . 0.1 mm

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 % antifreeze (by volume) with water

Air conditioning system

Compressor drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 to 10.0 mm deflection on longest run

Fuel system

Air filter element types

Carburettor engines:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W101

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W102

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U508

Fuel-injected engines:

K-Jetronic on 16 valve engine:

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U502

All other systems:

1.8 litre Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U506

1.8 litre Jetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U502

1.8 litre GTi ( engine code RP) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U572

Fuel filter element types

Carburettor engines (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L104

Fuel-injected engines:

K-Jetronic on 16 valve engine:

1.8 litre Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L203

1.8 litre Jetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L206

All other systems:

1.8 litre GTi ( engine code RP) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L206

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204*

* New copper washers must be used and these are not supplied with the filter

Idle speed

1.05 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 31 PIC-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

Pierburg/Solex 1B3 and Weber 32 TLA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

1.3 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

1.6 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code EZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code RF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 to 800 rpm

1.8 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

K-Jetronic fuel-injected engine:

8 valve:

Pre Sept. 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

From Sept. 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 to 1000 rpm

Air conditioned models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 to 1000 rpm

16 valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

Mono Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 950 rpm (not adjustable)

Digijet fuel-injected engine:

Up to July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 880 to 980 rpm

Digifant fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

CO content (%)

1.05 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 31 PIC-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Pierburg/Solex 1B3 and Weber 32 TLA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5

1.3 litre carburettor engines (Pierburg/Solex 2E3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5

1.6 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code EZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code RF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.5

1.8 litre carburettor engines (Pierburg/Solex 2E2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

K-Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Mono Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 to 1.2

Digijet fuel-injected engine:

Up to July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 1.1

July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 1.5

Digifant fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Ignition system

Firing order (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No. 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)

Contact breaker system

Spark plugs*: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Type Electrode gap

1.05, 1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre (pre July 1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7YCC or N7YC 0.8 mm or 0.7 mm

* Spark plug types and electrode gaps are recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If other types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

HT lead type:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set

1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07 boxed set

Distributor:

Contact breaker gap (initial setting only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 mm

Dwell angle (1.05, 1.3 and 1.6 litre):

Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 to 50° (50 to 56%)

Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 to 58° (47 to 64%)

Ignition timing (at idle):

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6° BTDC

1.6 and 1.8 litre (carburettor engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC

1.8 litre (fuel injection engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC

Transistorised system

Spark plugs*: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Type Electrode gap

pre Sept. 1985:

1.05, 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 litre (pre July 1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7YCC or N7YC 0.8 mm or 0.7 mm

from Sept. 1985:

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7BYC or N7YCC 0.8 mm

1.6 litre:

Coil with green sticker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N9BYC4 or N9YCC 1.0 mm

Coil with grey sticker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N9YCC 0.8 mm

1.8 litre:

Except 16V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7BYC or N7YCC 0.8 mm

16V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C6BYC or C6YCC 0.8 mm

* Spark plug types and electrode gaps are recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If other types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

HT lead type:

1.05 litre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set

1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07 boxed set

Distributor:

Dwell angle (1.05,1.3 and 1.6 litre):

Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 to 50° (50 to 56%)

Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 to 58° (47 to 64%)

Ignition timing:

1.3 litre (code NZ) - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6° BTDC at 750 to 850 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected

1.6 litre (code RF) - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC at 700 to 800 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected

1.8 litre:

Code PB and PF - Digifant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 2000 to 2500 rpm, with temperature sender disconnected

Code GU and RH - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC at 675 to 825 rpm, with vacuum hose connected

Code RP - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 950 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected

Fully electronic system

All Specifications as for Transistorised System except for:

Ignition timing:

1.8 litre 16 valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 950 to 1050 rpm, with vacuum hose connected

Servicing specifications 1•3

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Charging system

Alternator drivebelt tension

Initial adjustment for new drivebelt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm deflection under finger pressure at point midway between

alternator and crankshaft pulleys

Adjustment after 500 miles (750 km) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm deflection under finger pressure at same point

Models after early 1985 fitted with rack type adjustment link . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 Nm (6 to 7 Ibf ft) torque loading on adjuster bolt

Clutch

Free play at clutch pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 20 mm

Braking system

Pad thickness

Front disc brakes:

New - excluding backplate:

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.0 mm

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.0 mm

1.8 litre with ventilated discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm

Minimum - including backplate:

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Rear disc brakes:

New - including backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.0 mm

Minimum - including backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Shoe lining thickness

Rear drum brakes:

Minimum - including shoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Minimum - excluding shoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 mm

Steering

Power steering pump drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm deflection under firm finger pressure at point midway

between pump and crankshaft pulleys

Tyre pressures Refer to the end of “Weekly checks” Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Ignition system

Contact breaker system:

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Distributor clamp bolt:

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Transistorised and fully electronic systems:

Spark plugs:

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Charging system

Alternator mounting/pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Alternator adjuster link bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Manual gearbox

Oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Automatic transmission

Oil pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Oil strainer (filter) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2

Steering

Power steering pump/swivel bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Power steering pump tensioner/bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Roadwheels

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Body fittings

Seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

1•4 Servicing specifications

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

The maintenance intervals in this Manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, then more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule 1•5

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 24 months

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 32) mm Renew fuel filter (Section 33)

Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km)

mm Renew automatic transmission and final drive fluid

(Section 35)

Every 2 years

mm Renew brake fluid (Section 36)

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km)

mm Renew timing belt (Section 37)

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months

mm Check valve clearances (Section 12) mm Check alternator, power steering pump and air

conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) adjustment and condition (Section 13)

mm Check antifreeze concentration (Section 14) mm Renew spark plugs (Section 15) mm Renew and adjust contact breaker points (Section 16) mm Check ignition timing (Section 17) mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18) mm Check exhaust system (Section 19) mm Adjust slow running (Section 20) mm Check clutch operation (Section 21) mm Check gearbox oil level (Section 22) mm Check automatic transmission fluid level (Section 23) mm Check CV joints and boots (Section 24) mm Check fuel and brake lines, hoses and unions

(Section 25)

mm Check brake pads and rear shoe linings (Section 26) mm Check headlight beam alignment (Section 27) mm Check steering gear (Section 28) mm Check suspension (Section 29) mm Lubricate hinges and catches (Section 30) mm Check vehicle underbody (Section 31)

Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months

mm Check contact breaker points (Section 11)

Every 1000 miles (1500 km) or monthly

mm Check lock, hinge and latch mechanisms

(Section 3)

mm Check seat belts (Section 4) mm Check brakes (Section 5) mm Check for fluid leakage and engine electrical

system security (Section 6)

mm Check battery electrolyte level (Section 7) mm Check air conditioning system (Section 8) mm Check and lubricate fuel system control linkage

(Section 9)

mm Check operation of lights, direction indicators and

horns (Section 10)

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm see “Weekly checks”

Vehicles manufactured before August 1985

1•6 Maintenance schedule

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm See “Weekly checks”

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) - if completing more than 10 000 miles (15 000 km) per annum

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18) mm Check brake pad linings (Section 26)

Every 1000 miles (1500 km) or monthly

mm Check lock, hinge and latch mechanisms

(Section 3)

mm Check seat belts (Section 4) mm Check brakes (Section 5) mm Check for fluid leakage and engine electrical

system security (Section 6)

mm Check battery electrolyte level (Section 7) mm Check air conditioning system (Section 8) mm Check and lubricate fuel system control linkage

(Section 9)

mm Check operation of lights, direction indicators and

horns (Section 10)

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km)

mm Check alternator, power steering pump and air

conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) adjustment and condition (Section 13)

mm Renew spark plugs (Section 15) mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 32) mm Renew fuel filter (Section 33) mm Clean and lubricate sunroof guide rails (Section 34) mm Renew automatic transmission and final drive fluid

(Section 35)

Every 12 months

mm Check antifreeze concentration (Section 14) mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18) mm Check exhaust system (Section 19) mm Check idling speed and mixture (Section 20) mm Check clutch operation (Section 21) mm Check automatic transmission fluid level

(Section 23)

mm Check CV joints and boots (Section 24) mm Check fuel and brake lines, hoses and unions

(Section 25)

mm Check brake pads and rear shoe linings

(Section 26)

mm Check headlight beam alignment (Section 27) mm Check steering gear (Section 28) mm Check suspension (Section 29) mm Lubricate hinges and catches (Section 30) mm Check vehicle underbody (Section 31)

Every 2 years

mm Renew brake fluid (Section 36)

Every 40 000 miles (160 000 km)

mm Renew timing belt (Section 37)

Vehicles manufactured after August 1985

Maintenance - component location 1•7

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Underbonnet view – 1.3 litre model (air cleaner removed)

1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Fuel line filter 3 Brake master cylinder

reservoir 4 Carburettor 5 Ignition coil 6 Cooling system expansion

tank 7 Windscreen/headlight

washer reservoir 8 Ignition distributor 9 Battery 10Cooling fan 11Engine oil filler cap

Underbonnet view – fuel injection model

1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Compressor (air

conditioning) 3 Fuel distributor 4 Alternator 5 Engine oil filler cap 6 Brake master cylinder

reservoir 7 Throttle housing 8 Ignition coil 9 Cooling system expansion

tank 10Windscreen/headlamp

washer reservoir 11Battery 12Clutch cable 13Cooling fan 14Ignition distributor

1•8 Maintenance - component location

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Front underbody view - 1.3 litre model

1 Alternator 2 Oil filter 3 Driveshaft 4 Front mounting 5 Cooling system bottom

hose 6 Gearbox 7 Track control arm 8 Tie-rod 9 Exhaust 10Engine sump

Front underbody view - fuel injected model

1 Driveshaft 2 Front mounting 3 Starter motor 4 Gearbox 5 Track control arm 6 Tie-rod 7 Anti-roll bar 8 Exhaust system 9 Engine sump

Maintenance - component location 1•9

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Rear underbody view - 1.3 litre model

1 Exhaust 2 Fuel tank 3 Rear shock absorber lower

mounting 4 Axle beam 5 Handbrake cable (right-

hand) 6 Handbrake cable (left-hand) 7 Rear drum brake

Rear underbody view - fuel injected model

1 Exhaust 2 Fuel tank 3 Rear shock absorber lower

mounting 4 Axle beam 5 Fuel pump and associated

fittings 6 Brake pressure regulator 7 Rear disc brake

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this Manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal

engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery b) Check all the engine-related fluids c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt d) Renew the spark plugs e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary g) Renew the fuel filter (if fitted) h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system b) Check the ignition system c) Check the fuel system d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable

3 Lock, hinge and latch

mechanism check

Check the security and operation of all

hinges, latches and locks.

Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or is no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

4 Seat belt check

1 Check the webbing of each belt for signs of fraying, cuts or other damage, pulling the belt out to its full extent to check its entire length. Check the operation of the buckles by fitting the belt tongue plate and pulling hard to ensure that it remains locked, then check the retractor mechanism (inertia reel only) by pulling out the belt to the halfway point and jerking hard. The mechanism must lock immediately to prevent any further unreeling but must allow free movement during normal driving.

2 Ensure that all belt mounting bolts are securely tightened. Note that the bolts are shouldered so that the belt anchor points are free to rotate. 3 If there is any sign of damage, or any doubt about a belt’s condition, it must be renewed. If the vehicle has been involved in a collision any belts in use at the time must be renewed as a matter of course and all other belts should be checked carefully. 4 Use only warm water and non-detergent soap to clean the belts. Never use any

chemical cleaners, strong detergents, dyes or bleaches. Keep the belts fully extended until they have dried naturally; do not apply heat to dry them.

5 Brake check

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 4 Check the brake warning device for correct operation by switching the ignition on and releasing the handbrake. Now press the contact on the reservoir filler cap down and get an assistant to check that the handbrake and dual circuit warning lamp light up (see illustration).

1•10 Maintenance procedures

5.4 Check brake fluid level warning device

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 1000 miles (1500 km) or monthly

6 Fluid leakage and engine

electrical system check

1 Open the bonnet and inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of coolant or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal. 2 Carefully check the condition and security of all under bonnet coolant, fuel, power steering and brake pipes and hoses. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips (see

Haynes Hint).

3 Check the condition of all exposed wiring

harnesses. Ensure that all cable-ties are in place and in good condition. Ties which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the wiring which could cause serious problems in the future. 4 Wipe away any dirt which has accumulated on the outside of the alternator and check that its cable connector is pushed firmly onto its terminals. 5 Clean the ignition system HT and LT leads by wiping along their length with a fuelmoistened cloth. Inspect each lead for damage and renew if defective in any way. Ensure that all lead connections are secure and where applicable, protected (see

illustration). 6 Check that all HT and LT leads are correctly

routed and clear of moving or hot engine components. 7 Any corroded HT or LT lead connection

must be cleaned. A smear of petroleum jelly (not grease) applied to the cleaned connection will help to prevent further corrosion. 8 Check the transmission for obvious oil leaks and investigate and rectify any problems found. 9 Where accessible, inspect the fuel filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.

7 Battery electrolyte level

check

1 A “maintenance-free” (sealed for life) battery is standard equipment on all vehicles covered by this Manual. Although this type of battery has many advantages over the older refillable type and should never require the addition of distilled water, it should still be routinely checked. The electrolyte level can be seen through the battery’s translucent case and must be between the MINIMUM and MAXIMUM level marks. Although it should not alter in normal use, if the level has lowered (for example, due to electrolyte having boiled away as a result of overcharging) it is permissible to gently prise up the cell cover(s) and to top-up the level. 2 If a conventional battery has been fitted as a replacement, the electrolyte level of each cell should be checked and, if necessary, topped up until the separators are just

covered. On some batteries the case is translucent and incorporates MINIMUM and MAXIMUM level marks. The check should be made more often if the vehicle is operated in high ambient temperature conditions. 3 Top-up the electrolyte level using distilled or de-ionised water (see illustrations).

8 Air conditioning system

check

During winter months, operate the air conditioner for a few minutes each week to keep the system in good order.

Check that the condenser is free of dirt and insects. If necessary, clean it either by rinsing with a cold water hose or by blowing it clean with an air hose. Use a soft bristle brush to assist removal of dirt jammed in the condenser fins.

9 Fuel system control linkage

check

Check all parts of the fuel system control linkage for free movement throughout its complete operating range.

Clean all linkage joints and then lubricate with a light machine oil.

10 Light, direction indicator and

horn check

Check that the horn and all vehicle lights are functioning correctly. Renew any defective bulbs.

The headlights and (where applicable) the foglights should be in correct alignment.

Every 1000 miles or monthly 1•11

6.5 Ensure all HT lead connections are secure

7.3a Remove battery filler caps . . . 7.3b . . . and top up electrolyte level using distilled or de-ionised water

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

If regular topping-up becomes necessary and the battery case is not fractured,

the battery is being overcharged and the voltage regulator and/or alternator will have to be checked.

11 Contact breaker point check

1 Disconnect the LT lead from the terminal block on the screening ring, then the earth strap spade connector on the distributor body

(see illustration). 2 Release the two retaining clips and withdraw

the distributor cap, complete with screen ring,

from the distributor (see illustration). 3 Pull off the rotor arm and remove the dust cover (see illustration). 4 Using a screwdriver, prise open the points and inspect the condition of their faces (see illustration). If they are pitted and discoloured, remove them and dress them using emery tape or a grindstone whilst ensuring that their surfaces are flat and parallel. If the points are worn excessively, renew them. If the points are in good condition, then check their adjustment.

12 Valve clearance check

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines

1 Run the engine up to its normal operating temperature. Stop the engine and remove the valve cover. 2 Turn the engine until both cam peaks for No 1 cylinder are pointing upwards. 3 Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness (specified “Warm” clearance) between the cam and cam follower. If the blade is not a firm sliding fit, proceed as follows: 4 Turn the adjustable ball-stud using an Allen key (see illustration) . The valves from the

timing belt end of the engine are in the following order:

Inlet - Exhaust - Inlet - Exhaust - Inlet -

Exhaust - Inlet - Exhaust

5 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 2 and 3 for the remaining valves. If the engine is rotated in its normal direction, adjust the valves of No 3 cylinder followed by No 4 cylinder and No 2 cylinder. 6 Refit the valve cover, together with a new gasket.

1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve engines

Note: Ideally VW tools 2078 and 10.208 should be used to remove the valve shims, but alternatives can be used (see Tool Tip) Note: The following procedure applies only to engines fitted with shim bucket tappets - that is, those manufactured before August, 1985

7 Run the engine up to its normal operating temperature. Stop the engine and remove the valve cover. 8 Check each valve clearance in turn by rotating the engine so that the valve to be checked has the cam lobe facing upwards. In this position, the valve in question is fully closed and a feeler blade inserted between the heel of the cam lobe and the valve tappet shim within the tappet bucket will give the clearance present (see illustration).

1•12 Maintenance procedures

12.4 Adjusting a valve clearance -

1.05 and 1.3 litre

12.8 Checking a valve clearance -

1.6 and 1.8 litre

11.1 Disconnect LT lead (A) earth strap (B) and release securing clips (C)

11.2 Withdraw distributor cap and screen ring

11.3 Pull off the rotor arm

11.4 Contact breaker points viewed

through window in bearing plate (arrowed)

- Ducellier

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months

Ideally VW tools 2078 and 10.208 should be used to remove the valve shims, but we managed quite well with these tools; a small electrician’s screwdriver and a C-spanner which was just the right size to push the bucket down without pushing the tappet shim (ie pushing the rim down).

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