Chapter One
General Information
Chapter Two
Troubleshooting
Chapter Three
Periodic Maintenance, Lubrication and Tune-up
Chapter Four
Engine
Chapter Five
Clutch
Chapter Six
Transmission
Chapter Seven
Fuel and Exhaust
Chapter Eight
Electrical Systems
Chapter Nine
Wheels, Tires and Brakes
Chapter Ten
Chassis
Supplement 1982 and Later Service lnformation
Index
Wiring Diagrams
CONTENTS
QUICK REFERENCE DATA |
............................................................................................... XI |
CHAPTER ONE |
|
GENERAL INFORMATION |
.....................................................................................................1 |
Manual organization |
Shop tools |
Service hints |
Emergency tool kits |
Safety first |
Troubleshooting and tune - up |
Expendable supplies |
equipment |
CHAPTER TWO |
|
TROUBLESHOOTING ............................................................................................................. |
9 |
Starting difficulties
Poor performance
Clutch and transmission
Drive train
Chassis
Brakes
CHAPTERTHREE LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE
Battery
Engine oil and filter
General lubrication
Clutch adjustment
Drive chain
Swing arm
Steering
Front forks
Rear shock absorbers
Tires
Wheel bearing lubrication
Disc brake
Drum brake
Engine tune-up
Electrical system
Charging system
Lighting
Fuses
Wiring
AND TUNE-UP ................................................................. |
33 |
Air filter
Nuts, bolts and fasteners Fuel system
Spark plugs
Air suction valves (U.S. models) Valve clearance
Contact breaker points Ignition timing
(Contact point ignition) Ignition timing
(Transistorized ignition) Carburetor
Cylinder compression Storage
CHAPTER FOUR |
|
ENGINE ................................................................................................................................. |
70 |
Tools
Engine design Break-in
Servicing engine in frame Cam chain and tensioner Valve cover
Camshaft Cylinder head Valves and guides Cylinder block Pistons and rings
Oil cooler Removal/installation Oil filter bypass valve Oil pump
Crankcase
Secondary shaft and starter clutch Crankshaft and connecting rods Cam chain inspection
Primary chain inspection Crankcase assembly
CHAPTER FIVE |
|
CLUTCH ............................................................................................................................ |
124 |
Operation |
Clutch |
Clutch release mechanism |
|
CHAPTER SIX |
|
TRANSMlSSlON ............................................................................................................. |
133 |
Sprocket cover |
Shift detent |
Neutral switch |
Transmission |
Engine sprocket |
Shift drum and forks |
Shift linkage |
Transmission gears |
CHAPTERSEVEN |
|
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS ................................................................................... |
148 |
Carburetor operation |
Fast idle adjustment |
Carburetor troubleshooting |
Crankcase breather |
Rejetting |
Air suction system |
Carburetor tuning |
(U.S. models) |
Carburetor service |
Fuel tank |
Fuel level inspection |
Fuel tap |
Idle mixture adjustment |
Fuel level sending unit |
(Non-U.S. models) |
Exhaust system |
CHAPTER EIGHT |
|
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ...................................................................................................... |
169 |
Wiring diagrams |
Alternator stator |
Fuses |
Alternator rotor |
Battery |
Starting system |
Ignition system |
Starter motor |
Contact breaker points and |
Starter clutch |
condenser service |
Starter solenoid |
Spark plugs |
Lighting system |
Ignition advance mechanism |
Turn signal cancelling system |
Ignition coil |
Fuel level sensor |
Pickup coils |
Fuel gauge |
(Transistorized ignition) |
Horn |
CHAPTER NINE |
|
WHEELS, TIRES AND BRAKES ................... |
...........................................192 |
Wheels |
Brake fluid change |
Front wheel |
Brake line replacement |
Speedometer gear lubrication |
Disc brake pad replacement |
Rear wheel |
Disc brake calipers |
Wheel bearings and seals |
Master cylinder rebuilding |
Tubeless tires |
Front master cylinder |
Brakes |
Rear master cylinder |
Hydraulic disc brakes |
Brake discs |
Brake system bleeding |
Drum brake |
CHAPTERTEN |
|
CHASSIS ............................................................................................................................ |
228 |
Fairing |
Rear shock |
Front forks |
Swing arm |
Steering head |
Drive chain |
SUPPLEMENT |
|
1982 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATION .............................................................. |
246 |
INDEX ...................................................................................................................... |
307 |
WIRING DIAGRAMS .................................................................................. |
End Of Book |
CYLINDER HEAD
TORQUE
SEQUENCE
|
|
TIRES AND TIRE PRESSURE |
|
|
ModellTire size |
|
|
Pressure @ l o a d |
|
|
|
0.215 |
Ib. |
Over 21 5 Ib. |
|
|
(0.97.5 |
kg) |
(Over 97.5 kg) |
KZ500-01, 02, KZ550-A1 (tube-type) |
|
|
||
Front-3.25H-19 4PR |
28 psi (200 kPa) |
28 psi (200 kPa) |
||
Rear-3.75-18 4PR |
36 psi (245 kPa) |
40 psi (280 kPa) |
||
KZ500-03, KZ550-A2,B2,Dl |
(tubeless) |
|
|
|
Front-3.25H-19 4PR |
28 psi (200 kPa) |
28 psi (200 kPa) |
||
Rear-3.75H-18 4PR |
32 psi (225 kPa) |
40 psi (280 kPa) |
||
KZ550-C1, C2 (tubeless) |
|
|
|
|
Front-3.25s-19 4PR |
25 psi (175 kPa) |
25 psi (175 kPa) |
||
Rear-130/90-16 |
67H PR |
21 psi (150 kPa) |
28 psi (200 kPa) |
|
KZ550-HI (tubeless) |
|
|
See tire data decal |
|
Front-3.25H-19 4PR |
|
|
||
Rear-4.00-18 4PR |
|
|
|
|
KZ550-F1, M l (tubeless) |
25 psi (175 kpa) |
25 psi (175 kPa) |
||
Front-100190-19 57s |
||||
Rear-130190.16 |
67s |
21 psi (147 kPa) |
28 psi (196 kPa) |
|
ZX550-A1, A2 (tubeless) |
28 psi (196 kPa) |
28 psi (196 kPa) |
||
Front-100190-18 56H |
||||
Rear-120180-18 |
62H |
32 psi (225 kPa) |
36 psi (245 kPa) |
|
TUNE.UP |
SPECIFICATIONS |
|
0.024-0.028 in. (0.6-0.7 mm) |
1979-1981; 1982-on US. |
NGK D8EA; ND X24ES-U |
1982-on non-US. |
NGK D8ES; ND X24ESR-0 |
Valve clearance (cold) |
0.004-0.008 in. (0.10-0.20 mm) |
|
|
|
0.006-0.010 in. (0.15-0.25 mm) |
|
1,150-1,250 rpm |
All other models |
1,000-1,100 rpm |
|
X |
FASTENERTORQUES
|
ft..lb. |
mkf4 |
Alternator rotor bolt |
|
|
Camshaft cap bolts |
|
|
Clutch hub nut |
|
|
Connecting rod cap nuts |
|
|
Crankcase bolts |
|
|
Small |
|
|
Large |
|
|
Cylinder base nuts |
|
|
Cylinder head |
|
|
Bolts |
|
|
Nuts |
|
|
Engine mounting bolts |
|
|
KZ550-HI, F1, M I |
|
|
All others |
|
|
Engine mounting bracket |
|
|
bolts |
|
|
Engine sprocket plate |
|
|
bolts |
|
|
Oil drain plug |
|
|
Except KZ550-F1, M I |
|
|
KZ550-F1, -M1 |
|
|
Oil filter mounting bolt |
|
|
Secondary shaft nut |
|
|
Spark plugs |
10 |
1.4 |
|
Chassis |
|
Front axle nut |
|
|
KZ550-F1, M I |
47 |
6.5 |
All others |
58 |
8.0 |
Front axle pinch bolt |
14.5 |
2.0 |
Front fork clamp bolts |
|
|
KZ550-F1, M I |
|
|
Upper |
15 |
2.1 |
Lower |
20 |
2.8 |
All other models |
13 |
1.8 |
Rear axle nut |
|
|
KZ550-F1, M1 |
54 |
7.5 |
2x550-At, A2 |
69 |
9.5 |
All others |
60 |
8.0 |
Steering stem head bolt |
|
|
KZ550bH1, F1, M1 |
31 |
4.3 |
All other models |
35 |
4.5 |
Swing arm pivot shaft |
|
|
KZ550-H1 |
58 |
8.0 |
KZ550-F1, M1 |
9.5 |
1.3 |
ZX550-A1, A2 |
65 |
90 |
Engine oil
Front fork oil
Fuel
Final drive gear oil
LUBRICANTS AND FUEL
SAE 10W-40, 1OW-50, 20W-40, 20W-50, rated SE or higher SAE 5W20
87 pump octane (RON ~tMON)/2
91 research octane (RON)
API GL-5 Hypoid gear oil; SAE 80 or SAE 90
|
|
FORK AIR PRESSURE* |
|
Model |
Standard |
Range |
|
KZ550-C |
8.5 |
psi (60 kPa) |
7-10 psi (50-70 kPa) |
KZ550 |
|
|
|
F1, M I |
7.5 |
psi (59 kPa) |
7-10 psi (49-69 kPa) |
H1 |
10.0 |
psi (70 kPa) |
8.5-1 1 psi (60-80 kPa) |
All others |
10 psi (70 kPa) |
8.5-1 1 psi (60-80 kPa) |
|
Never exceed 36 psi (245 k Pa) air pressure as it will damage the oil seals.
|
REAR SHOCK AIR PRESSURE* |
|
Model |
Standard |
Range |
KZ550 |
|
|
F1 |
11 psi (78 kPa) |
11-10 psi (78-147 kPa) |
Never exceed 71 psi (490 kPa) air pressure as it will damage the oil seals.
|
|
STANDARD FORK OIL* (1982-on) |
|
|
|
Model |
Dry capacity |
Wet capacity |
Oil level |
||
|
U.S. fl. oz. (cc) |
U.S. fl. ox. (CC) |
in. (mm) |
||
KZ550-HI |
7.9 t 0.1 |
7.2 |
19.8 |
+O.l |
|
|
(234 |
k2.5) |
(215) |
(503 |
1 2 ) |
KZ550-F1, M I |
11.05 |
k0.15 |
9.4 |
16.3 |
+0.1 |
|
(327 |
+4) |
(280) |
(416 |
+2) |
ZX550-A1, A2 |
7.7 k0.08 |
*. |
18.58 |
t O . l |
|
|
|||||
|
(229 22.5) |
|
472 ( k 2) |
||
Fork oil level is checked with forks fully extended and the fork spring removed. Use oil grade SAE 5W-20. 'Not specified.
XI1
This detailed, comprehensive manual covers Kawasaki KZ500/550 and ZX550 models. The expert text gives complete information on maintenance, repair and overhaul. Hundreds of photos and drawings guide you through every step. The book includes all you need to know to keep your bike running right.
Chapters One through Ten contain general information on all models and specific information on 1979-198 1 models. The Supplement at the end of the book contains information on 1982 and later models that differ from earlier years. Where repairs are practical for the owner/mechanic, complete procedures are given. Equally important, difficult jobs are pointed out. Such operations are usually more economically performed by a dealer or independent garage.
A shop manual is a reference. You want to be able to find information fast. As in all Clymer books, this one is designed with this in mind. All chapters are thumb tabbed. Important items are indexed at the end of the book. All the most frequently used specifications and capacities are summarized on the Quick Reference pages at the beginning of the book.
Keep the book handy. It will help you to better understand your Kawasaki, lower repair and maintenance costs and generally improve your satisfaction with your bike.
C H A P T E R O N E
GENERAL INFORMATION
The troubleshooting, maintenance, tune-up, and step-by-step repair procedures in this book are written specifically for the owner and home mechanic. The text is accompanied by helpful photos and diagrams to make the job as clear and correct as possible.
Troubleshooting, maintenance, tune-up, and repair are not difficult if you know what to d o and what tools and equipment to use. Anyone of average intelligence, with some mechanical ability, and not afraid to get their hands dirty can perform most of the procedures in this book.
In some cases, a repair job may require tools or skills not reasonably expected of the home mechanic. These procedures are noted in each chapter and i t is recommended that you take the job to your dealer, a competent mechanic, or a machine shop.
M A N U A L ORGANIZATION
This chapter provides general information, safety and service hints. Also included are lists of recommended shop and emergency tools as well as a brief description of troubleshooting and tune-up equipment.
Chapter Two provides methods and suggestions for quick and accurate diagnosis and
repair of problems. Troubleshooting procedures discuss typical symptoms and logical methods to pinpoint the trouble.
Chapter Three explains all periodic lubrication and routine maintenance necessary to keep your motorcycle running well. Chapter Three also includes recommended tune-up procedures, eliminating the need to constantly consult chapters o n the various subassemblies.
Subsequent chapters cover specific systems such as the engine, transmission, and electrical system. Each of these chapters provides disassembly, inspection, repair, and assembly procedures in a simple step-by-step format. If a repair is impractical for the home mechanic i t is indicated. In these cases it is usually faster and less expensive to have the repairs made by a dealer o r competent repair shop. Essential specifications are included in the appropriate chapters.
When special tools are required to perform a task included in this manual, the tools are il- lustrated. I t may be possible to borrow or rent these tools. T h e inventive mechanic may also be able t o find a suitable substitute in his tool box, o r t o fabricate one.
The terms NOTE, C A U T I O N , and W A R N I N G have specific meanings in this manual. A NOTE provides additional o r explanatory information. A
2 |
CHAPTER ONE |
CAUTION is used to emphasize areas where equipment damage could result if proper precautions are not taken. A W A R N I N G is used to stress those areas where personal injury or death could result from negligence, in addition to possible mechanical damage.
SERVICE HINTS
Time, effort, and frustration will be saved and possible injury will be prevented if you observe the following practices.
Most of the service procedures covered are straightforward and can be performed by anyone reasonably handy with tools. It is suggested, however, that you consider your own capabilities carefully before attempting any operation involving major disassembly of the engine.
Some operations, for example, require the use of a press. It would be wiser to have these performed by a shop equipped for such work, rather than to try t o d o the job yourself with makeshift equipment. Other procedures require precision measurements. Unless you have the skills and equipment required, it would be better to have a qualified repair shop make the measurements for you.
Repairs go much faster and easier if the parts that will be worked on are clean before you begin. There are special cleaners for washing the engine and related parts. Brush or spray on the cleaning solution, let stand, then rinse it away with a garden hose. Clean all oily or greasy parts with cleaning solvent as you remove them.
W A R N I N G
Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. It presents an extreme fire hazard. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area when using cleaning solvent. Keep a fire extinguisher, rated for gasoline fires, handy in any case.
Much of the labor charge for repairs made by dealers is for the removal and disassembly of other parts to reach the defective unit. It is frequently possible to perform the preliminary operations yourself and then take the defective unit in to the dealer for repair, at considerable savings.
Once you have decided to tackle the job yourself, make sure you locate the appropriate section in this manual, and read it entirely. Study the illustrations and text until you have a good idea of what is involved in completing the job satisfactorily. If special tools are required, make arrangements to get them before you start. Also, purchase any known defective parts prior to starting on the procedure. It is frustrating and time-consuming to get partially into a job and then be unable to complete it.
Simple wiring checks can be easily made at home, but knowledge of electronics is almost a necessity for performing tests with complicated electronic testing gear.
During disassembly of parts keep a few general cautions in mind. Force is rarely needed to get things apart. If parts are a tight fit, like a bearing in a case, there is usually a tool designed to separate them. Never use a screwdriver to pry apart parts with machined surfaces such as cylinder head or crankcase halves. You will mar the surfaces and end up with leaks.
Make diagrams wherever similar-appearing parts are found. You may think you can remember where everything came from - but mistakes are costly. There is also the possibility you may get sidetracked and not return to work for days o r even weeks - in which interval, carefully laid out parts may have become disturbed.
Tag all similar internal parts for location, and mark all mating parts for position. Record number and thickness of any shims as they are removed. Small parts such as bolts can be identified by placing them in plastic sandwich bags that are sealed and labeled with masking tape.
Wiring should be tagged with masking tape and marked as each wire is removed. Again, do not rely o n memory alone.
Disconnect battery ground cable before working near electrical connections and before disconnecting wires. Never run the engine with the battery disconnected; the alternator could be seriously damaged.
Protect finished surfaces from physical damage or corrosion. Keep gasoline and brake fluid off painted surfaces.
GENERAL INFORMATION |
3 |
Frozen or very tight bolts an d screws can often be loosened by soaking with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench o r WD-40, then sharply striking the bolt head a few times with a hammer and punch (or screwdriver for screws). Avoid heat unless absolutely necessary, since it may melt, warp, or remove the temper from many parts.
Avoid flames or sparks when working near a charging battery or flammable liquids, such as gasoline.
No parts, except those assembled with a press fit, require unusual force during assembly. If a part is hard to remove or install, find out why before proceeding.
Cover all openings after removing parts t o keep dirt, small tools, etc., from falling in.
When assembling two parts, start all fasteners, then tighten evenly.
Wiring connections and brake shoes, drums, pads, and discs and contact surfaces in dry clutches should be kept clean an d free of grease and oil.
When assembling parts, be sure all shims an d washers are replaced exactly as they came out.
Whenever a rotating part butts against a stationary part, look for a shim o r washer. Use new gaskets if there is any doubt about the condition of old ones. Generally, you should apply gasket cement to one mating surface only, so the parts may be easily disassembled in the future. A thin coat of oil o n gaskets helps them seal effectively.
Heavy grease can be used t o hold small parts in place if they tend to fall out during assembly. However, keep grease and oil away from electrical, clutch, and brake components.
High spots may be sanded off a piston with sandpaper, but emery cloth an d oil d o a much more professional job.
Carburetors are best cleaned by disassembling them and soaking the parts in a commercial carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rubber parts in these cleaners. Never use wire to clean out jets and air passages; they are easily damaged. Use compressed air t o blow out the carburetor, but only if the float has been removed first.
Take your time and d o the job right. D o not forget that a newly rebuilt engine must be
broken in the same as a new one. Refer to your owner's manual for the proper break-in procedures.
SAFETY FIRST
Professional mechanics can work for years and never sustain a serious injury. If you observe a few rules of common sense and safety, you can enjoy many safe hours servicing your motorcycle. You could hurt yourself or damage the motorcycle if you ignore these rules.
1. Never use gasoline a s a cleaning solvent.
2. Never smoke o r use a torch in the vicinity of flammable liquids such as cleaning solvent in open containers.
3. Never smoke o r use a torch in a n area where batteries ar e being charged. Highly explosive hydrogen gas is formed during the charging process.
4. Use the proper sized wrenches to avoid damage t o nuts a n d injury to yourself.
5.When loosening a tight or stuck nut, be guided by what would happen if the wrench should slip. Protect yourself accordingly.
6.Keep your work area clean an d uncluttered.
7. Wear safety goggles during all operations involving drilling, grinding, o r use of a cold chisel.
8. Never use worn tools.
9. Keep a fire extinguisher handy and be sure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical (Class C) fires.
EXPENDABLE SUPPLIES
Certain expendable supplies are necessary. These include grease, oil, gasket cement, wiping rags, cleaning solvent, and distilled water. Also, special locking compounds, silicone lubricants, an d engine an d carburetor cleaners may be useful. Cleaning solvent is available at most service stations an d distilled water for the battery is available at supermarkets.
SHOP TOOLS
For complete servicing and repair you will need a n assortment of ordinary hand tools
(Figure 1).
4
As a minimum, these include:
Combination wrenches
Sockets
Plastic mallet
Small hammer
Impact driver
Snap ring pliers
Gas pliers
Phillips screwdrivers
Slot (common) screwdrivers
Feeler gauges
Spark plug gauge
Spark plug wrench
Special tools required are shown in the chapters covering the particular repair in which they are used.
Engine tune-up a n d troubleshooting procedures require other special tools and equipment. These are described in detail in the following sections.
EMERGENCY TOOL KITS
Highway
A small emergency tool kit kept on the bike is handy for road emergencies which otherwise
CHAPTER ONE
could leave you stranded. The tools and spares listed below a n d shown in Figure 2 will let you handle most roadside repairs.
a. Motorcycle tool kit (original equipment)
b.Impact driver
c.Silver waterproof sealing tape (duct tape) d. H o s e d a m p s (3 sizes)
e. Silicone sealer f. Lock ' N ' Seal g. Flashlight
h. Tire patch kit i. Tire irons
j. Plastic pint bottle (for oil)
k.Waterless hand cleaner
1.Rags for clean u p
Off-Road
A few simple tools and aids carried on the motorcycle can mean the difference between walking or riding back to camp or to where repairs can be made. See Figure 3.
A few essential spare parts carried in your truck o r van can prevent a day or weekend of trail riding from being spoiled. See Figure 4.
GENERAL INFORMATION
On the Motorcycle
a. Motorcycle tool kit (original equipment)
b.Drive chain master link
c.Tow line
d. Spark plug
e.Spark plug wrench f. Shifter lever
g. Clutch/brake lever
h. Silver waterproof sealing tape (duct tape)
i. Loctite Lock ' N ' Seal
In the Truck
a.Control cables (throttle, clutch, brake)
b.Silicone sealer
c.Tire patch kit
d. Tire irons
e.Tire pump
f. Impact driver g. Oil
W A R N l N G
Tools and spares should be carried on the tnotorcycle - not i n clothing where a simple fall could result i n serious injury from a sharp tool.
5
TROUBLESHOOTING AND
TUNE-UP EQUIPMENT Voltmeter, Ohmmeter, and Ammeter
For testing the ignition or electrical system, a good voltmeter is required. For motorcycle use, an instrument covering 0-20 volts is satisfactory. One which also has a 0-2 volt scale is necessary for testing relays, points, or individual contacts where voltage drops are much smaller. Accuracy should be _+ X volt.
An ohmmeter measures electrical resistance. This instrument is useful for checking continuity (open and short circuits), and testing fuses and lights.
The ammeter measures electrical current. Ammeters for motorcycle use should cover 0-50 amperes and 0-250 amperes. These are useful for checking battery charging and starting current.
Several inexpensive vakl's (volt-ohm-milli- ammeter) combine all three instruments into one which fits easily in any tool box. See Figure 5. However, the ammeter ranges are usually too small for motorcycle work.
Hydrometer
The hydrometer gives a useful indication of battery condition and charge by measuring the
6 |
CHAPTER ONE |
specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell. See Figure 6. Complete details on use and interpretation of readings are provided in the electrical chapter.
Compression Tester
The compression tester measures the compression pressure built up in each cylinder. The results, when properly interpreted, can indicate
general cylinder, ring, and valve condition. See Figure 7. Extension lines are available for hard- to-reach cylinders.
Dwell Meter (Contact Breaker
Point Ignition Only)
A dwell meter measures the distance in degrees of cam rotation that the breaker points remain closed while the engine is running. Since
GENERAL INFORMATION |
7 |
this angle is determined by breaker point gap, dwell angle is a n accurate indication of breaker point gap.
Many tachometers intended for tuning and testing incorporate a dwell meter as well. See Figure 8 . Follow the manufacturer's instructions t o measure dwell.
Tachometer
A tachometer is necessary for tuning. See Figure 8 . Ignition timing and carburetor adjustments must be performed at the specified idle speed. T h e best instrument for this purpose is on e with a low range of 0-1,000 or 0-2,000 rpm for setting idle, and a high range of 0-4,000 or more for setting ignition timing at 3,000 rpm. Extended range (0-6,000 or 0-8,000 rpm) instruments lack accuracy at lower speeds. The instrument should be capable of detecting changes of 25 r p m o n the low range.
NOTE: The motorcycle's tachometer is not accurate enough for correct idle adjustmen I.
Strobe Timing Light
This instrument is necessary for tuning, as i t permits very accurate ignition timing. The light flashes at precisely the same instant that No. 1 cylinder fires, at which time the timing marks o n the engine should align. Refer to Chapter Three for exact location of the timing marks for your engine.
II
Suitable lights range from inexpensive neon bulb types ($2-3) t o powerful xenon strobe lights ($20-40). See Figure 9. Neon timing lights are difficult to see and must be used in dimly l i t areas. Xenon strobe timing lights can be used outside in bright sunlight.
Tune-up Kits
Many manufacturers offer kits that combine several useful instruments. Some come in a convenient carry case and are usually less expensive than purchasing one instrument at a time. Figure 10 shows one of the kits that is available. The prices vary with the number of instruments included in the kit.
Manometer (Carburetor Synchronizer)
A manometer is essential for accurately synchronizing carburetors o n multi-cylinder engines. The instrument detects intake pressure differences between carburetors and permits them to be adjusted equally. A suitable manometer costs about $25 and comes with detailed instructions for use. See Figure 11.
Fire Extinguisher
A fire extinguisher is a necessity when working on a vehicle. It should be rated for both Class B (flammable liquids - gasoline, oil, paint, etc.) and Class C (electrical - wiring, etc.) type fires. I t should always be kept within reach. See Figure 12.
CHAPTER ONE
C H A P T E R T W O
TROUBLESHOOTING
Troubleshooting motorcycle problems is relatively simple. T o be effective and efficient, however, it must be done in a logical step-by- step manner. If it is not, a great deal of time may be wasted, good parts may be replaced unnecessarily, and the true problem may never be uncovered.
Always begin by defining the symptoms as closely as possible. Then, analyze the symptoms carefully so that you can make a n intelligent guess at the probable cause. Next, test the probable cause and attempt to verify it; if it's not at fault, analyze the symptoms once again, this time eliminating the first probable cause. Continue on in this manner, a step at a time, until the problem is solved.
At first, this approach may seem t o be time consuming, but you will soon discover that it's not nearly so wasteful as a hit-or-miss method that may never solve the problem. And just as important, the methodical approach to troubleshooting ensures that only those parts that are defective will be replaced.
The troubleshooting procedures in this chapter analyze typical symptoms a n d show logical methods for isolating and correcting trouble. They are not, however, the only methods; there may be several approaches to a given problem, but all good troubleshooting methods have one thing in common - a logical, systematic approach.
ENGIN E
The entire engine must be considered when trouble arises that is experienced as poor performance o r failure to start. The engine is more than a combustion chamber, piston, and crankshaft; it also includes a fuel delivery system, a n ignition system, and an exhaust system.
Before beginning t o troubleshoot any engine problems, it's important to understand an engine's operating requirements. First, it must have a correctly metered mixture of gasoline and air (Figure 1). Second, it must have an airtight combustion chamber in which the mixture can be compressed. And finally, it requires a precisely timed spark to ignite the compressed mixture. If one o r more is missing, the engine won't run, and if just one is deficient, the engine will run poorly at best.
Of the three requirements, the precisely timed spark - provided by the ignition system - is most likely t o be the culprit, with gadair mixture (carburetion) second, and poor compression the least likely.
STARTING DIFFICULTIES
Hard starting is probably the most common motorcycle ailment, with a wide range of problems likely. Before delving into a reluctant or non-starter, first determine, what has changed
10 |
CHAPTER TWO |
4-STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES
TROUBLESHOOTING
since the motorcycle last started easily. For instance, was the weather dry then and is it wet now? Has the motorcycle been sitting in the garage for a long time? Ha s it been ridden many miles since it was last fueled?
Has starting become increasingly more difficult? This alone could indicate a number of things that may be wrong but is usually associated with normal wear of ignition an d engine components.
While it's not always possible t o diagnose trouble simply from a change of conditions, this information can be helpful and at some future time may uncover a recurring problem.
Fuel Delivery
Although it is the second most likely cause of trouble, fuel delivery should be checked first simply because it is the easiest.
First, check the tank t o make sure there is fuel in it. Then, disconnect the fuel hose at the carburetor, open the valve and check for flow (Figure 2). If fuel does not flow freely make sure the tank vent is clear. Next, check for blockage in the line o r valve. Remove the valve and clean it as described in the fuel system chapter.
If fuel flows from the'hose, reconnect it an d remove the float bowl from the carburetor, open the valve and check for flow through the float needle valve. If it does not flow freely when the float is extended and then shut off when the flow is gently raised, clean the carburetor as described in the fuel system chapter.
When fuel delivery is satisfactory, go on to the ignition system.
Ignition
Remove the spark plug from the cylinder an d check its condition. The appearance of the plug is a good indication of what's happening in the combustion chamber; for instance, if the plug is wet with gas, it's likely that engine is flooded. Compare the spark plug t o Figure 3. Make certain the spark plug heat range is correct. A "cold" plug makes starting difficult.
After checking the spark plug, reconnect it t o the high-tension lead and lay it o n the cylinder head so it makes good contact (Figure 4). Then,
11
with the ignition switched o n , crank the engine several times and watch for a spark across the plug electrodes. A fat, blue spark should be visible. If there is n o spark, or if the spark is weak, substitute a good plug for the old one and check again. If the spark has improved, the old plug is faulty. If there was no change, keep looking.
Make sure the ignition switch is not shorted t o ground. Remove the spark plug cap from the end of the high-tension lead and hold the exposed end of the lead about )/8 inch from the cylinder head. Crank the engine and watch for a spark arcing from the lead to the head. If it's satisfactory, the connection between the lead and the cap was faulty. If the spark hasn't improved, check the coil wire connections.
If the spark is still weak, remove the ignition cover an d remove any dirt o r moisture from'the points o r sensor. Check the point or air gap against the specifications in the Quick Reference Data at the beginning of the book.
If spark is. still not satisfactory, a more serious problem exists than can be corrected with simple adjustments. Refer to the electrical system chapter for detailed information for correcting major ignition problems.
Compression
Compression - o r the lack of it - is the least likely cause of starting trouble. However, if compression is unsatisfactory, more than a simple adjustment is required to correct it (see the engine chapter).
A n accurate compression check reveals a lot about the condition of the engine. T o perform this test you need a compression gauge (see Chapter One). Th e engine should be at operating temperature for a fully accurate test, but even a cold test will reveal if the starting problem is compression.
Remove the spark plug and screw in a compression gauge (Figure 5). With assistance, hold the throttle wide open an d crank the engine several times, until the gauge ceases to rise. Normal compression should be 130-160psi, but a reading as low as 100 psi is usually sufficient for the engine t o start. If the reading is much lower than normal, remove the gauge and pour about a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder.
12 |
CHAPTER 'IWO |
TROUBLESHOOTING
w
lORMAL
Appearance-Firing tip has deios~tsof light gray to light tan
Can be cleaned, regapped and eused
:ARBON FOULED
Appearance-Dull |
dry black w ~ t h |
||||||
luffy |
carbon |
depos~tson the i n |
|||||
ulator |
tip |
electrode and exposed |
|||||
hell |
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|
|
|
|
|
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Caused by-Fuellair |
m ~ x t u r etoo |
||||||
c h |
plug |
heat range |
too |
cold |
|||
teak |
|
ignition |
system |
dirty |
air |
||
leaner |
faulty |
automatic |
choke or |
||||
xcesslve Idling |
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|
||||
Can |
|
be |
cleaned |
regapped |
and |
||
eused |
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|
31L FOULED
Appearance-Wet black depos~ts
I n insulator and exposed shell |
|
||||||
Caused |
by-Excessive |
oil |
enter- |
||||
n g |
the |
combust~on |
chamber |
||||
hrough worn rlngs |
pistons |
valve |
|||||
g d e s or bear~ngs |
|
|
|
|
|||
1 Replace |
with |
new |
plugs |
(use |
a |
||
latter |
plug if |
engine |
18 not |
re |
|||
)aired)
LEAD FOULED
Appearance - Yellow m u l a t o r deposits (may sometimes be dark
gray black or tan in |
color) on the |
insulator t ~ p |
|
Caused by-Highly |
leaded gaso- |
lhne |
|
Replace with new plugs
LEAD FOULED
Appearance-Yellow glazed depos~tsi n d c a t ~ n gmelted lead deposits due to hard acceleration
Caused by-Highly leaded gas@ line
Replace with new plugs
13
OIL AND LEAD FOULED
Appearance-Glazed yellow de pos~t sw ~ t ha sl~gh tbrown~shtint on th e insulator tip and ground electrode
Replace with new plugs
FUEL ADDITIVE RESIDUE
Appearance - Brown colored hardened ash deposits on the insu lator t ~ anpd ground electrode
Caused by-Fuel andlor oil addi- t ~ v e s
Replace w ~ t hnew plugs
WORN
Appearance - Severely worn or eroded electrodes
Caused by-Normal wear or unusual 011andlo r fuel add~tives
Replace w ~ t hnew plugs
PREIGNITION
Appearance
electrode |
|
|
Caused |
by-Overadvanced |
ignl |
tion timing inoperative |
ignhtion |
|
advance mechanism too low of a fuel octane rating lean fuellair m ~ x t u r eor carbon deposits in combustion chamber
PREIGNITION
Appearance-Melted |
center elec. |
|||
trade |
|
|
|
|
Caused |
by-Abnormal |
combus- |
||
tion due |
to overadvanced ignit~on |
|||
t i m ~ n gor |
~ncorrect advance |
too |
||
low of a |
fuel octane |
rating |
lean |
|
fuellair |
mixture |
or |
carbon |
de- |
posits In combustion chamber |
|
|||
Correct |
engine |
problem |
and |
|
replace with new plugs |
|
|||
INCORRECT HEAT RANGE
Appearance-Melted center electrode and white blistered ~nsulator
t i p
Caused by-Incorrect plug heat range select~on
Replace w ~ t hnew plugs
14 |
CHAPTER TWO |
IGNITION: |
Turn switches on. Remove spark plug |
and check for spark outside cyiinder |
t
Refer to electrical chapter for correction
Refer to engine chepter for correction
TROUBLESHOOTING |
15 |
Crank the engine several times to distribute the oil and test the compression once again. If i t is now significantly higher, the rings and bore are worn. If the compression did not change, the valves are not seating correctly. Adjust the valves and check again. If the compression is still low, refer t o the engine chapter.
NOTE: L o w compression indicates a developing problem. The condition causing it should be corrected as soon as possible.
POOR PERFORMANCE
Poor engine performance can be caused by any of a number of things related to carburetion, ignition, and the condition of the sliding and rotating components in the engine. In addition, components such as brakes, clutch, and transmission can cause problems that seem to be related t o engine performance, even when the engine is in to p running condition.
Poor Idling
Idling that is erratic, too high, or too low is most often caused by incorrect adjustment of the carburetor idle circuit. Also, a dirty air filter o r a n obstructed fuel tank vent can affect idle speed. Incorrect ignition timing or worn or faulty ignition components are also good possibilities.
First, make sure the air filter is clean and correctly installed. Then, adjust the throttle cable free play, the throttle stop screw, and the idle mixture air screw (Figure 6) a s described in the routine maintenance chapter.
If idling is still poor, check the carburetor and manifold mounts for leaks; with the engine warmed u p and running, spray WD-40 or a similar light lube aroun d the flanges and joints of the carburetor an d manifold (Figure 7). Listen for changes in engine speed. If a leak is present, the idle speed will drop as the lube "plugs" the leak an d then pick u p again as i t is drawn into the engine. Tighten the nuts and clamps and test again. If a leak persists, check for a damaged gasket o r a pinhole in the manifold. Minor leaks in manifold hoses can be repaired with silicone sealer, but if cracks or holes are extensive, the manifold should be replaced.
16
A worn throttle slide may cause erratic running and idling, but this is likely only after many thousands of miles of use. T o check, remove the carburetor top and feel for back and forth movement of the slide in the bore; it should be barely perceptible. Inspect the slide for large worn areas and replace it if it is less than perfect (Figure 8).
If the fuel system is satisfactory, check ignition timing and breaker point ga p (air gap in electronic ignition). Check the condition of the system components as well. Ignition-caused idling problems such as erratic running can be the fault of marginal components. See the electrical system chapter for appropriate tests.
Rough Running or Misfiring
Misfiring (see Figure 9) is usually caused by an ignition problem. First, check all ignition connections (Figure 10). They should be clean, dry, and tight. Don't forget the kill switch; a loose connection can create a n intermittent short.
CHAPTER TWO
TROUBLESHOOTING |
17 |
|
ENGINE RUNS ROUGH AND MISFIRES |
0- |
ENGINE M I S S E S A L L SPEEDS |
f Check ignition wire connections.
+Inspect the insulation on the spark plug high. tension lead for cracking and deterioration.
+Inspect the spark plug for correct heat range and condition.
+Check |
the point gap and the spring tension on |
the contact breaker or check electronic module |
|
on models with electronic ignition. |
|
ENGINE MISSES AT LOW SPEED |
|
+Check |
ignition system (above). |
+Clean |
carburetor-pay particular attention to |
low-speed jet and circuit. |
|
ENGINE MISSES AT MID-RANGE |
|
+Check |
i g n ~ t ~ osystemn (above). |
+Clean |
carburetor. |
+Check pos~tionand cond~tion of slide needle. -.+
Handlebar (kill) switch
Main switch
AT HIG H SPEED
18 |
CHAPTER TWO |
Check the insulation on the high-tension spark plug lead. If it is cracked or deteriorated it will allow the spark to short t o ground when the engine is revved. This is easily seen at night. If arcing occurs, hold the affected area of the wire away from the metal t o which it is arcing, using an insulated screwdriver (Figure ll),and see if the misfiring ceases. If it does, replace the high-tension lead. Also check the connection of the spark plug cap to the lead. If it is poor, the spark will break down at this point when the engine speed is increased.
The spark plug could also be poor. Test the system with a new plug.
Incorrect point gap or a weak contact breaker spring can cause misfiring. Check the gap and the alignment of the points. Push the
moveable arm back and check for spring ten-
'
sion (Figure 12). It should feel stiff.
On models with electronic ignition, have the electronic module tested by a dealer or substitute a known good unit for a suspected one.
If misfiring occurs only at a certain point in engine speed, the problem may very likely be
TROUBLESHOOTING |
19 |
IDLE/ LOW-SPEED
-
-
Needle jet \I
: MID-RANGE
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