Owner’s Manual
An Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a JL Audio W7 subwoofer driver. The W7 embodies JL Audio’s commitment to pushing the envelope of speaker technology, with eight patented technologies, a design patent and a completely unique set of component parts. Each W7 model has been meticulously engineered to reproduce sub-bass with extreme fidelity at any volume level, provided it is installed and tuned properly. Please review the information in this document carefully so as to maximize your
enjoyment of the W7’s capabilities. |
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Two enclosure recommendations are listed for |
each model, |
one sealed and one ported. The sealed enclosure |
design will, |
in most cases, give you the best overall sound quality and take up the least space in your vehicle. The ported enclosure design will deliver additional output over the sealed enclosure (about 3 - 4 dB more) and will also maintain excellent sound quality, but it will require significantly more space to install. The recommended ported enclosure is not designed for peaky “competition SPL” performance, it is designed for music listening. It will be very loud and sound extremely good when set up properly.
In addition to the enclosure recommendations, we also provide recommended amplifier settings for JL Audio amplifiers used with W7’s. Some of this information is also applicable with other brands of amplifiers (like crossover points and slopes), some is not (like the voltage levels specified for input sensitivity settings). You will notice that our recommended settings do not include any bass EQ boost... this is because W7’s rarely require any equalization to produce smooth frequency response. If you have an equalizer in your system (or one is included in your head unit or amplifier), defeat all bands below 125 Hz before dialing in your new system settings. Please turn off all sound processing that would affect the subwoofers (loudness circuits for example).
For optimum sub-bass performance, the amplifier input sensitivity must be adjusted to avoid excessive distortion (clipping) of the amplifier output. With W7 subwoofers, a clipped amplifier output will manifest itself audibly as a low-level“mechanical” sound coming from the speakers. Proper input sensitivity setting will avoid this problem. Overly high input sensitivity settings result in no additional clean output but will result in poor sound quality and reduced speaker reliability.
Please consult the input sensitivity setting information on page 14 of this book.
Recommended Continuous (RMS) Power Range for One Subwoofer Driver:
1 2 5 W |
2 5 0 W |
5 0 0 W |
1 0 0 0 W |
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2 0 0 0 W |
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4 0 0 0 W |
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GREEN (minimum):
From a reliability standpoint, this zone represents a very comfortable operating power range for each driver. This level of power will not stress the woofer but will not extract all of its performance potential, either.
Use of less than the minimum power level will not damage the woofer, but may result in unsatisfactory performance.
YELLOW (OPTIMUM):
This zone represents the best balance between long-term reliability, high output and low distortion performance. In this zone, you will be taking full advantage of the woofer's optimum, low-distortion performance range without undue risk of failure.
RED (MAXIMUM):
In this zone, low-distortion output and long-termreliabilitywillbecompromised (especially by an aggressive user). Slightly more SPL will be gained by pushing the power into this zone, but typically not more than 2dB, compared to the yellow zone. The closer you are to the black zone, the higher the likelihood of driver failure. Operate with caution.
Black (WARRANTY VOID):
We do not recommend operating woofers at this level of power. In this zone, there is a very high probability that the driver will fail due to excessive heat and/or mechanical stress.
Subwoofer drivers operated at these levels of power are NOT covered under warranty.
When designing systems with W7 drivers, it is very important to achieve a good power match between the subwoofer amplifier and the subwoofer driver's capabilities. The power levels listed in the above chart represent continuous (RMS) amplifier power per woofer and assume that the user will regularly make full use of that power without drastically overdriving (clipping) the amplifier(s). Make sure you factor system impedance and the total number of subwoofers into your calculations. Adhering to these power recommendations will result in systems that are both reliable and enjoyable.
2
W7 Technologies
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-Air-Cooled |
. Patent #D472,891, |
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6 - Massive Forced |
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Aluminum |
Alloy Frame |
(U.S |
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Surround |
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#6,229,902) |
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cool air |
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1 - OverRoll™ |
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and #5,949,898) |
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1and |
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coil |
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#6,219,43 |
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design of the W7 delivers |
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.S. Patent #5,687,247 |
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speakers, this |
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The elevated frame |
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-plate to the voice |
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(U |
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space wasted |
in conventional |
W7’s massive |
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slots directly |
above the top |
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power handling, |
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By utilizing |
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innovation controls the |
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through |
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. This not only enhances |
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parameter |
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-breaking |
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cone |
area |
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of |
the speaker |
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dynamic |
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ground |
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sacrificing |
precious |
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quality |
by minimizing |
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excursion without |
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but also sound |
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-W-Cone™ |
(U.S. Patent |
#6,496,590) |
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that delivers |
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shifts |
and power |
compression |
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System |
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2 |
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-Optimized Motor |
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-body cone assembly |
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The shape |
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Analysis |
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-Cone™ |
is a unit |
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Linear, DMA |
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Motor |
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The W |
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stiffness with |
minimal |
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7 - Highly |
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proprietary |
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Dynamic |
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astonishing cone |
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rigidity, which is critical |
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DMA is JL Audio’s |
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dynamic motor |
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torsional |
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at improving |
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incredible |
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is aimed |
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motors |
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also provides |
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at the suspension |
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system and |
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optimization, W7 |
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voice coil alignment |
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to maintaining |
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. As a result of DMA |
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range |
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behavior |
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force over an extreme |
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remain |
linear in motor |
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a highly |
stable fixed |
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limits |
-Cone™ Attach Method |
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and also maintain |
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of excursion |
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gap over a wide power range |
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3 - Floating |
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#6,501,844) |
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proper |
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magnetic |
field in the |
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distortion and |
faithfully |
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(U.S. Patent |
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assembly technique ensures |
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This leads to vastly reduced |
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tight, clean, |
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Our newly conceived |
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speaker for better |
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... or put simply: |
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surround geometry |
in the assembled |
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. |
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reproduced transients |
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voice coil alignment |
the |
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articulate |
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bass. |
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excursion control |
and dynamic |
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-Roll Spider |
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means a lot |
when you’re pumping |
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A small detail that |
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the W7 is capable |
of. |
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8 |
- Huge Diameter, |
Progressive |
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analysis and |
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extremes |
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cone to the excursion |
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Arrived at |
after intense computer |
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control |
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W7 spiders |
provide precise |
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-Reinforced |
Spider Attachment |
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optimization, the |
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without prematurely |
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coil |
alignment |
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4 - Plateau |
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#6,118,884) |
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this |
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and motor/voice |
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(U.S. Patent |
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VRC technology, |
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famous |
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A derivative |
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of JL Audio’s |
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relieves |
stress from |
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limiting |
excursion |
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attachment |
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suspension |
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enhanced |
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-Extruded Double |
Lead |
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bulletproof |
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-excursions for |
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carefully engineered |
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9 - Co |
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casing and |
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the spider material |
at high |
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The extruded |
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controlled |
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attachments ensure |
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reliability |
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-Drilled Pole Piece |
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the most extreme |
excursion |
demands |
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- Radially |
Cross |
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.S. Patent #6,243,479) |
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enhances |
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(U |
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venting |
system greatly |
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This innovative |
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handling by directing |
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thermal |
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- Ultra |
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flow |
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To |
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technology #6. |
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control |
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with |
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handling and control, control, |
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patents |
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multiple |
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listed |
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are |
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technologies |
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. W7 |
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patented |
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lead |
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loss |
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operation |
of your |
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pressure levels can |
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high sound |
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quality |
capabilities |
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WARNING: |
Prolonged |
exposure |
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pressure |
levels |
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capable |
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and your long |
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in order |
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3
W7 Mounting Guide
Please review the mounting procedures thoroughly before attempting to remove the speaker from its shipping baffle. The W7 mounts like no other speaker and care must be taken to follow these instructions precisely.
1
Step 1: Your Tools
When you remove the W7 from its shipping carton, it is attached to an MDF baffle board. Make sure you keep this baffle board and all the packing material in the unlikely event that the W7
ever needs to be shipped back to JL Audio for service.
Two tools are required to install a W7: a large flat blade screwdriver and an electric screwdriver with a #2 Phillipshead bit.
2c
2a |
2b |
Correct |
Wrong |
Step 2: Remove Clamp-Ring
Gently insert the tip of the large flat-head screwdriver between the shiny aluminum clamp-ring and the foam surround (picture 2a). Be careful not to push the screwdriver too far down or it will wedge behind the hidden O-Ring (picture 2b). Gently twist the screwdriver to “pop” the clamp-ring off of the O-Ring and frame (picture 2c). This should require little effort... if you are encountering high resistance, pull the screwdriver up a bit to make sure it is not wedged behind the O-Ring. Once you have released the tip of the clamp-ring, a gentle push with your thumb in the direction of the speaker circumference (picture 2d) will separate the clamp-ring fully (picture 2f). Do not pull up on the ring until it is completely removed (picture 2g).
2e
2d |
2f |
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Wrong 2g
Correct
3a
Step 3: Remove O-Ring
Once the clamp-ring is removed, the steel O-Ring is exposed. Gently lift this O-Ring up and off the speaker with your fingertips and set it aside.
3b
4c
Wrong
4b
4d Wrong
4a |
4e |
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Step 4: Remove Screws
Once the O-Ring is out of the way, the surround is completely
free of the speaker frame (no glue is used to secure it). Lift the surround up and fold it back inside the speaker frame (picture 4a). This exposes the mounting screws (picture 4b). The surround should be folded back and in towards the center of the speaker (picture 4c). Do not pull it up (picture 4d) or invert it (picture 4e). While holding the surround back with two fingers as shown, back the first screw out using your electric screwdriver
(picture 4f, 4g). Repeat this process eleven more times (there are twelve screws on a W7) until you have separated the speaker from the shipping baffle-board. Before you panic, be aware
that the surround and cone materials are rugged and will 4f not be damaged if you follow the procedures shown. Only
careless acts like picking the speaker up by the surround or
creasing it by force will cause permanent damage.
4g
4
Step 5: Ready to Install
You are now ready to install the
W7 into its enclosure. The parts are |
Step 6: Connect the speaker wires and |
shown below. |
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place the W7 into the enclosure |
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Connect the positive wire to the red terminal and the negative wire to |
6a |
the black terminal of the W7 (picture 6a). The 13W7 (not shown) has dual |
voice coils and must be wired with its coils in series or in parallel. Once |
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the speaker is wired, gently lower it into the enclosure (picture 6b). This is |
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difficult on a vertical mounting surface (because of the speaker’s |
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weight) so you should enlist the help of a second person. If you |
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need a better grip (or are afraid of smashing your fingers) |
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you can grasp the inside of the speaker’s mounting flange |
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(remember, the surround moves out of the way). This tip |
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is particularly useful with the 13W7. |
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6b |
5 |
Step 7: Screw it in (12 times) |
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Line up the screw holes of the frame |
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with the holes that you have pre- |
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drilled in your enclosure (you did |
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pre-drill the holes, right?). The W7 |
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should be attached with heavy |
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screws such as the ones supplied with |
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the speaker. This will necessitate pre- |
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drilling. The use of inferior hardware |
|
(i.e. drywall screws) may lead to |
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disastrous consequences, so don’t |
7a |
do it. While holding the surround |
back with two fingers (picture 7a), |
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screw the speaker into the enclosure |
7b |
(picture 7b). Once all twelve screws |
are in place (you did use all twelve, |
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right?), place the surround back over |
the outside of the speaker frame (picture 7c).
8a
7c
Step 8: Attach O-Ring
Next, take the steel O-Ring that you removed in step 3, and place it over the outside of the surround. Push it down evenly (do not seat one side first) to make sure it seats the lower lip of the surround down to the
frame (pictures 8a, 8b).
9a |
8b |
|
Be sure that the beveled edge of the clamp-ring is “pointing” towards the front of the speaker. The clamp-ring is only designed to work in this orientation.
“click”
9b
Step 9: Attach Clamp-Ring
Place the seam of the clamp-ring where it will be
least visible in the installation (usually at the bottom |
9c |
of the speaker). Start one end of the clamp-ring by pressing |
i t |
in firmly (pictures 9a, 9b). Then work your way around from that point around the speaker, pushing the clamp-ring inward and in the direction of the circumference of the frame (pictures 9c, 9d). If you have achieved a tight fit all around, the seam will be small when you reach the starting point again (pictures 9e, 9f). Check the entire circumference for a tight fit just to be sure.
9e
9d |
9f |
That’s it!
You’ve just installed a W7!
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