Ford Scorpio 1985 1998, Scorpio User Manual

4 (1)

1•1

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents

Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Air conditioner condenser check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Automatic choke check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Engine inlet manifold security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

 

Front and rear brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

 

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

 

Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

 

Hot starting check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

 

Idle mixture check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

 

Idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

 

Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

 

Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

 

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

 

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

 

Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

 

Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

 

Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

 

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

 

Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

1

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Spark plug renewal

20

 

 

Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See end of Chapter

 

Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

 

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

 

Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

 

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

 

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

Fairly easy, suitable

Fairly difficult,

Difficult, suitable for

Very difficult,

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

DIY or professional

Ford Granada maintenance schedule

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mCheck the engine oil level (Section 3).

mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 3).

mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 3).

mCheck the screen washer fluid level (Section 3).

mVisually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear or damage (Section 4).

mCheck and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures (Section 4).

mCheck and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte level - where applicable (Section 6).

mCheck the operation of the horn, all lights, and the wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7).

frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factoryauthorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or

6 months – whichever comes sooner

mRenew engine oil and filter (Section 8)

mCheck brake pads for wear (front and rear) (Section 9)

mCheck tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13)

mCheck idle speed (1.8 litre only) (Section 15)

mCheck idle mixture (not fuel-injection models) - at first 6000 miles only (Section 16)

mClean oil filler cap (Section 14)

mInspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)

mCheck function and condition of seat belts (Section 11)

mCheck operation of brake fluid level warning indicator (Section 9)

mCheck condition and security of exhaust system (Section 12).

1•2 Maintenance Schedule

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or

12 months – whichever comes sooner

mCheck operation of latches, check straps and locks; lubricate if necessary (Section 19)

mCheck condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s); adjust or renew as necessary (Section 21)

mCheck tightness of battery terminals, clean and neutralise corrosion if necessary (Section 22)

mCheck engine valve clearances (Section 23)

mCheck tightness of inlet manifold bolts (V6 only) (Section 24)

mRenew spark plugs (Section 20)

mClean air conditioning condenser fins (when applicable) (Section 25)

mCheck air conditioning refrigerant charge (when applicable) (Section 26)

mCheck manual gearbox oil level (Section 18)

mCheck final drive oil level (Section 27)

mLubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown linkage (Section 28)

mCheck security and condition of steering and suspension components, gaiters and boots (Section 29)

mCheck condition and security of driveshaft joints (Section 30)

mInspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other damage (Section 31)

mInspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32)

mClean idle speed control linkage at throttle (when applicable) (Section 33)

mRoad test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)

mCheck automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot) (Section 17)

mCheck engine for satisfactory hot starting (Section 37)

mCheck that automatic choke is fully off with engine hot (not fuelinjection models) (Section 36)

mCheck power steering fluid level (when applicable) (Section 35)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

mRenew air cleaner element (Section 38)

mClean and inspect distributor cap, rotor arm, HT leads and coil tower (Section 39)

mAdjust automatic transmission brake bands (Section 40)

mRenew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only) (Section 41)

mRenew crankcase ventilation vent valve (carburettor models) (Section 42)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

mRenew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if necessary (Section 43)

mRenew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44)

mRenew camshaft drivebelt on SOHC models - recommended as a precautionary measure (Section 45)

Every 2 years - regardless of mileage

m Renew coolant (Section 46)

Lubricants and fluids

 

Component or system

Lubricant type/specification

1

Engine

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range

 

 

 

SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API SG/CD

 

 

 

 

 

 

or better

 

2

Cooling system

Soft water/antifreeze to Ford spec.

 

 

 

SSM 97B9103-A or SDM-M97B49-A

 

3

Manual transmission:

 

 

 

N9

Semi-synthetic gear oil to Ford

 

 

 

spec. ESD M2C175-A (80 EP)

 

 

MT75

Gear oil to Ford spec. ESD-

 

 

 

M2C186-A

 

4

Automatic transmission

ATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A

 

 

 

(TQ Dexron II)

 

5

Final drive

Gear oil SAE 90EP to API GL5

 

6

Brake hydraulic system

Hydraulic fluid to Ford spec.

 

 

 

SAM- 6C9103-A

 

7

Power steering

ATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A

 

 

 

(TQ Dexron II)

 

 

 

 

Maintenance Schedule 1•3

Capacities

Engine oil

Manual gearbox

SOHC:

 

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.3.75 litres (6.6 pints)

DOHC:

 

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.4.5 litres (7.9 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

V6:

 

With filte r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4.25 litres (7.5 pints)

Cooling system

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.0 litres (14.1 pints) V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Fuel tank

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.25 litres (2.2 pints)

Automatic transmission

All models (from dry) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Final drive

7 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.9 litres (1.6 pints) 7.5 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.3 litres (2.3 pints)

Power steering

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.65 litres (1.1 pints) V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.75 litres (1.3 pints)

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.70 litres (15.4 gallons)

Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with fuel-injection

1

Battery

19

Windscreen washer

 

2

Engine oil dipstick

 

reservoir

 

3

Inlet manifold

20

Alternator

1

4

Throttle/kickdown cable

21

Coolant expansion tank

 

bracket

 

cap

 

 

 

 

5

Suspension turrets

22

Engine mounting

 

6

Ignition coil

23

Heater hose

 

7

Air cleaner cover

24

Automatic transmission

 

8

Fuel pressure regulator

 

fluid dipstick

 

9

Vane airflow meter

25

Brake fluid reservoir

 

10

Headlight covers

 

cap

 

11

Tune-up label

26

Brake hydraulic unit

 

12

Idle speed control valve

 

accumulator

 

13

Oil filler cap

27

Brake hydraulic unit

 

14

Spark plug leads

 

valve block

 

15

VIN plate

28

Main fuse/relay box

 

16

Radiator hoses

29

Wiper motor (behind

 

17

Horn

 

cover)

 

18

Windscreen washer

30

Heater blower cover

 

 

pump

 

 

 

Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with fuel-injection

1

Windscreen wiper motor

15

Throttle position sensor

2

Battery

16

Power steering fluid

3

Suspension strut top

 

reservoir

 

mounting

17

Anti-theft alarm horn

4

Brake fluid reservoir

18

Speed control system

5

Ignition distributor

 

diaphragm

6

Coolant expansion tank

19

Speed control system

7

Washer fluid reservoir

 

vacuum pump

8

Automatic transmission

20

Vehicle identification

 

fluid dipstick

 

(VIN) plate

9

Oil filler cap

21

Fuel pressure regulator

10

Engine oil level dipstick

22

Air charge temperature

11

Air cleaner element

 

sensor

 

housing

23

Manifold absolute

12

Idle speed control valve

 

pressure (MAP) sensor

13

Ignition module

 

vapour trap

14

Manifold Absolute

24

Fuse/relay box

 

Pressure (MAP) sensor

 

 

Ford Scorpio 1985 1998, Scorpio User Manual

1•4 Maintenance Schedule

Under-bonnet view of a 2.8 litre V6 Granada

1

Battery

 

2

Suspension turrets

 

3

Air cleaner cover

 

4

Vane airflow meters

 

 

5

Headlight covers

 

6

Tune-up label

 

7

Auxiliary driving light covers

 

8

Crankcase ventilation hoses

 

9

Throttle linkage cover

 

10

Throttle cable and kickdown switch

 

11

Plenum chamber

 

12

Idle speed control valve

 

13

Radiator top hose

 

14

Oil filler cap

 

15

Power steering fluid reservoir

 

16

Horn

 

17

Washer fluid level switch

 

18

Windscreen washer pump

 

19

Windscreen washer reservoir

 

20

Coolant level switch

 

21

Coolant expansion tank cap

 

22

Engine mounting

 

23

Heater hose

 

24

Brake hydraulic unit valve block

 

25

Brake fluid reservoir cap

 

26

Brake hydraulic unit accumulator

 

27

Main fuse/relay box

 

28

Wiper motor (behind cover)

 

29

Heater blower cover

 

30

Fuel pressure regulator

 

31

Distributor screening lid

 

32

Engine oil dipstick

 

 

33

Automatic transmission fluid dipstick

Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with automatic transmission

1 Brake and fuel pipes

2 Transmission sump

3 Transmission crossmember

4 Speedometer sender unit

5 Propeller shaft coupling

6 Exhaust flanged joint

7 Exhaust mounting

8 Exhaust pipe

9 Jacking points

10 Anti-roll bar clamps

11 Anti-roll bar

12 Brake calipers

13 Brake flexible hoses

14 Suspension lower arms

15 Front crossmember

16 Track rods

17 Track rod ends

18 Steering rack bellows

19 Radiator bottom hose

20 Alternator

21 Transmission fluid cooler hoses

22 Crankshaft pulley

23 Fan

24 Oil filter

25 Sump drain plug

26 Starter motor

27 Starter motor solenoid

 

Maintenance Schedule

1•5

 

Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with automatic transmission

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Track rod end

 

 

2

Track rod

 

 

3

Steering gear gaiter

 

 

4

Water pump

 

 

5

Starter motor

 

 

6

Front suspension lower arm

 

 

7

Front suspension anti-roll bar

 

 

8

Exhaust downpipe

 

 

9

Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor -

 

 

 

models with catalytic converter

 

 

10

Front suspension crossmember

 

 

11

Sump drain plug

 

 

12

Power steering pump

 

 

13

Washer fluid reservoir

 

 

14

Radiator cooling fans

 

 

15

Catalytic converter (where fitted)

 

 

16

Catalytic converter heatshield (where

 

 

 

fitted)

 

 

17

Transmission crossmember

1

18

Fuel feed and return pipes

19Rear brake pipes

20Steering gear feed and return hoses

Rear underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with fuel-injection

1Rear silencer

2Fuel pump (fuel-injection)

3Fuel filter (fuel-injection)

4Fuel tank

5Fuel tank straps

6Anti-roll bar clamps

7Final drive rear mounting

8Anti-roll bar

9Driveshafts

10Driveshaft joints

11Final drive unit

12Handbrake cables

13Suspension lower arms

14Crossmember

15Exhaust hanger

16Guide plates

17Propeller shaft

18Propeller shaft universal joint

19Brake and fuel pipes

20Shock absorber lower mountings

21Jacking points

22Intermediate silencer

23Exhaust pipe

1•6 Maintenance Procedures

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the

performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a)Clean, inspect and test the battery (Section 6)

b)Check all the engine-related fluids (Section 3).

c)Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).

d)Renew the spark plugs (Section 20).

e)Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads - as applicable (Chapter 5).

f)Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element, and renew if necessary (Section 38).

g)Renew the fuel filter (Section 41).

h)Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 10).

i)Check the idle speed and mixture settings - as applicable (Chapter 4).

If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a)Check the charging system (Chapter 5).

b)Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).

c)Check the fuel system (Chapter 4).

d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm - as applicable (Chapter 5).

f)Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable (Chapter 5).

Weekly checks

3 Fluid level checks

Engine oil

1Check the oil level as follows.

2With the vehicle parked on level ground, and with the engine having been stopped for a few minutes, open and prop the bonnet. Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it on a clean rag

3.2 Dipstick markings

and re-insert it fully. Withdraw it again and read the oil level relative to the marks on the end of the stick (see illustration).

3The oil level should be in between the MAX and MIN marks on the dipstick. If it is at or below the MIN mark, top-up (via the oil filler cap) without delay. The quantity of oil required to raise the lever from MIN to MAX on the dipstick is approximately 1 litre. Do not overfill

(see illustration).

4The rate of oil consumption depends on

leaks and on the quantity of oil burnt. External leakage should be obvious. Oil which is burnt may enter the combustion chambers through the valve guides or past the piston rings; excessive blow-by past the rings can also force oil out via the crankcase ventilation system. Driving conditions also affect oil consumption.

5 Always use the correct grade and type of oil as shown in “Lubricants and fluids”.

Coolant

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Warning: DO NOT remove the

 

 

 

expansion tank pressure cap

 

 

 

when the engine is hot, as there

 

 

 

is a great risk of scalding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6 Check the coolant level as follows.

 

 

7 Open and prop the bonnet. Observe the

 

 

level of coolant through the translucent walls

 

 

of the expansion tank (on the right-hand side

 

 

of the engine bay). The level should be up to

 

 

the MAX mark when the engine is cold, and

 

 

may be somewhat above the mark when hot.

 

 

8 If topping-up is necessary, wait for the

 

 

system to cool down if it is hot. Place a thick

3.3 Topping up the engine oil

 

rag over the expansion tank cap and slacken it

 

 

Weekly checks 1•7

3.9 Topping up the cooling system

to release any pressure. When pressure has been released, carry on unscrewing the cap and remove it.

9Top-up to the MAX mark with the specified coolant (see illustration). In an emergency plain water is better than nothing, but remember that it is diluting the proper coolant. Do not add cold water to an overheated engine whilst it is still hot.

10Refit the expansion tank cap securely when the level is correct. With a sealed type cooling system like this, the addition of coolant should only be necessary at very infrequent intervals. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak in the system. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for any sign of staining or actual wetness, and rectify as necessary. If no leaks can be found, it is advisable to have the pressure cap and the entire system pressuretested by a dealer or suitably-equipped garage, as this will often show up a small leak not previously apparent.

Brake fluid

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and

pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

4.1 Checking the tyre tread depth

3.14 Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap

Be sure to use only the specified brake hydraulic fluid, since mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system. See

“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this Chapter. When adding fluid, it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or contamination are seen in the fluid.

11Check the brake fluid level as follows.

12With the vehicle parked on level ground and the ignition switched off, pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels hard.

13Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the ignition.

14The fluid level in the reservoir should now be between the MAX and MIN marks. If topping-up is necessary, unplug the electrical connectors from the cap, then unscrew and remove it (see illustration). Catch the hydraulic fluid which will drip off the level sensor with a piece of rag.

If any brake fluid gets onto

paintwork, wash it off

immediately with clean water.

15 Top-up with fresh brake fluid of the specified type (see illustration). Do not overfill. Refit and reconnect the reservoir cap immediately.

4.3 Checking tyre pressure

3.15 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir

16 The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down during normal operation. If the reservoir requires repeated replenishment to maintain the proper level, this is an indication of a hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

Washer fluid

17 When topping-up the windscreen or rear screen washer fluid reservoir, a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle.

1

4 Tyre checks

1On later models tyres may have tread wear safety bands, which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. Otherwise, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration).

2Wheels and tyres should give no real problems in use, provided that a close eye is kept on them with regard to excessive wear or damage. To this end, the following points should be noted.

3Ensure that the tyre pressures are checked regularly and maintained correctly (see illustration). Checking should be carried out with the tyres cold, not immediately after the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high reading will be obtained, owing to heat expansion. Under no circumstances should an attempt be made to reduce the pressures to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or effective under-inflation will result.

4Note any abnormal tread wear (see illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on one side than the other, are indications of front wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, they should be rectified as soon as possible.

5Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.

1•8 Weekly checks

Tyre Tread Wear Patterns

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shoulder Wear

 

 

Centre Wear

 

 

Toe Wear

 

 

Uneven Wear

 

 

Underinflation

 

Overinflation

 

Incorrect toe setting

 

 

Incorrect camber or castor

 

 

(wear on both sides)

 

Check and adjust pressures

 

Adjust front wheel alignment

 

 

Repair or renew suspension

 

 

Check and adjust pressures

 

If you sometimes have to inflate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

parts

 

 

Incorrect wheel camber

 

 

Note: The feathered edge of

 

 

Malfunctioning suspension

 

 

 

your car’s tyres to the higher

 

 

 

 

 

(wear on one side)

 

 

the tread which characterises

 

 

Repair or renew suspension

 

 

 

pressures specified for maximum

 

 

 

 

 

Repair or renew suspension

 

 

toe wear is best checked by

 

 

parts

 

 

 

load or sustained high speed,

 

 

 

 

 

parts

 

 

feel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

don’t forget to reduce the

 

 

 

Unbalanced wheel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hard cornering

 

pressures to normal afterwards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Balance tyres

 

 

Reduce speed!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Out-of-round brake disc/drum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Machine or renew

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced adhesion, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

7Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to the possible consequences of any damage found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice.

8Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible.

9The balance of each wheel and tyre assembly should be maintained to avoid excessive wear, not only to the tyres but also to the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or

damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels, and wheel bearing wear also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear.

10Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

11General tyre wear is influenced to a large degree by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, the added expense is incurred of replacing all four tyres at once, which may prove financially-restrictive for many owners.

12Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. The front wheels should always be correctly aligned according to the settings specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

13Legal restrictions apply to many aspects of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this information is contained in the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations. It is suggested that a copy of these regulations is obtained from your local police, if in doubt as to current legal requirements with regard to tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth, etc.

5 Electrical system check

Check the operation of all the electrical equipment, ie. lights, direction indicators, horn, washers, etc. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 13 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage. Rectify any faults found.

6 Battery electrolyte level check

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read through the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this manual.

1The battery fitted as original equipment is “maintenance-free”, and requires no maintenance apart from having the case kept clean, and the terminals clean and tight.

2If a “traditional” type battery is fitted as a replacement, remove the old cell covers and check that the plate separators in each cell are covered by approximately 6 mm (0.25 in) of electrolyte. If the battery case is translucent, the cell covers need not be removed to check the level. Top-up if necessary with distilled or de-ionized water; do not overfill, and mop up any spillage at once (see illustration).

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•9

6.2 Topping up the battery

3Persistent need for topping-up the battery electrolyte suggests either that the alternator output is excessive. or that the battery is approaching the end of its life.

4Further information on the battery, charging and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5, and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

7 Wiper blade check

1Clean the wiper blades and the windscreen, using a solution of concentrated washer fluid or methylated spirit. Similarly clean the headlight lens and wiper blades.

2Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. At the same time, check the headlight wiper blades (where fitted) for condition, and renew if necessary.

For maximum clarity of vision,

windscreen wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

3 To remove a blade, hinge the arm and blade away from the screen. Press the tab on the spring clip in the middle of the blade and unhook the blade from the arm.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

7.4 Fitting a windscreen wiper blade

4Refit the blade by sliding it onto the hook on the arm (see illustration).

5Check that the windscreen washer jets operate correctly, and direct the washer fluid towards the upper area of the wiper blade stroke. If necessary, use a pin to reposition the washer jets.

1

8 Engine oil and filter renewal

Frequent oil and filter changes

are the most important

preventative maintenance procedures which can be

undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

1 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to

8.6 Fitting an oil filter

protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.

2Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.

3Slacken the drain plug about half a turn. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve. Recover the sealing washer from the drain plug.

4Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.

5After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing washer for condition, and renew it if necessary. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque.

6Move the container into position under the oil filter. On SOHC engines, the filter is located on the left-hand side of the cylinder block in front of the engine bearer. On DOHC and V6 engines, the filter is located on the right-hand side of the cylinder block (see illustration).

7Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way. Empty the oil from the old filter into the container, and discard the filter.

8Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.

9Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.

10Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable).

11Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the dipstick from the top of the filler tube. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.

12Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter, before the pressure builds up.

13Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

14Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the reference Sections of this manual.

1•10 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

9 Front and rear brake pad check

1Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front and rear of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking”).

2For a quick check, the front brake disc pads can be inspected without removing the front wheels, using a mirror and a torch through the aperture in the rear face of the caliper. If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified, all four pads (on both front wheels) must be renewed.

3It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can be viewed through the top of the caliper after removing the spring clip. If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified, all four pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.

4For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake discs can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 10 for further information.

5At the same interval, check the function of the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels, release the handbrake and switch on the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the warning light: it should come on as the level sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap.

6On completion, refit the wheels and lower the car to the ground.

clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips.

5With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.

6Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal pipes. If any damage or deterioration is discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the necessary repair work has been carried out. Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.

7Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.

8From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration.

9Where applicable, check the condition of the oil cooler hoses and pipes.

10Check the condition of all exposed wiring harnesses.

11Also check the engine and transmission components for signs of fluid leaks.

10 Fluid leak check

11 Seat belt check

 

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual.

2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil leaks, and investigate and rectify and problems found.

3Check the security and condition of all the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring which could cause more serious problems in the future.

4Carefully check the condition of all coolant, fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the system components. Hose

Periodically check the belts for fraying or other damage. If evident, renew the belt.

If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a damp cloth using a little detergent only.

Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure that the original sequence of fitting of washers, bushes and anchor plates is retained.

15.3 Idle adjustment screws - Pierburg 2V carburettor

A Idle speed

B Idle mixture

12 Exhaust system check

With the vehicle raised on a hoist or supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”), check the exhaust system for signs of leaks, corrosion or damage and check the rubber mountings for condition and security. Where damage or corrosion are evident, renew the system complete or in sections, as applicable, using the information given in Chapter 4.

13 Roadwheel security check

With the wheels on the ground, slacken each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then retighten it immediately to the specified torque.

14 Oil filler cap check

Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any sludge build-up using paraffin.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can cause oil leaks.

15 Idle speed check - 1.8 litre SOHC

An accurate tachometer (rev. counter) will be needed to adjust the idle speed. The engine must be at operating temperature, the air cleaner element must be clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the engine valve clearances must be correct. The ignition system must also be in good condition.

Connect the tachometer to the engine as instructed by the manufacturers. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Read the speed from the tachometer and compare it with the value in the Specifications of Chapter 4 (Pierburg 2V carburettor).

If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle speed adjustment screw. Turn the screw clockwise to increase the speed, and anticlockwise to decrease the speed (see illustration).

16 Idle mixture check - carburettor models only

1.8 litre engine

1An exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) or other proprietary device will be needed to adjust the idle mixture.

2The engine must be at operating temperature, the air cleaner element must be clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•11

16.12 Idle mixture adjustment screw (arrowed) - Weber 2V carburettor

engine valve clearances must be correct. The ignition system must also be in good condition.

3Mixture adjustment is not usual on a routine basis. If the CO level is incorrect, proceed as follows.

4Connect the exhaust gas analyser as instructed by the manufacturers.

5Raise the engine speed to 3000 rpm approximately and hold it at this speed for

30seconds, then allow it to idle. Repeat this procedure every 60 seconds until adjustment is complete.

16.13 Idle adjustment screwsWeber 2V TLD carburettor

A Idle mixture

B Idle speed

6 Read the CO level when it has stabilised after the 3000 rpm burst. The desired level is given in the Specifications of Chapter 4 (Pierburg 2V carburettor).

7If the idle mixture needs adjustment, turn the mixture adjusting screw. The screw may be covered by a tamperproof plug.

8Recheck the idle speed after adjusting the mixture.

9Stop the engine and disconnect the test gear.

10 Fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjusting screw if required.

2.0 litre SOHC engine

11If mixture adjustment is required, proceed as described for the 1.8 litre engine above.

12See illustration for the location of the mixture adjusting screw on the Weber 2V carburettor fitted to this engine

DOHC engine

13 Proceed as described for the 1.8 litre engine, noting the following points (see illustration).

14Refer to the Specification for the Weber 2V (TLD) carburettor in Chapter 4.

15The air cleaner must be removed for access to the mixture adjustment screw.

16Prise the tamperproof seal from the mixture screw.

17Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover breather hose are securely connected and free from restrictions (there is no need to secure

the air cleaner in position).

1

18 On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal

to the mixture screw (the service replacement plug is coloured blue) and refit the air cleaner assembly.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

17 Automatic transmission fluid level check

1 Fluid level should be checked with the transmission at operating temperature (after a run) and with the vehicle parked on level ground.

2Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine idling and the handbrake and footbrake applied, move the gear selector through all positions three times, finishing up in position P.

3Wait one minute. With the engine still idling, withdraw the transmission dipstick (see illustration). Wipe the dipstick with a clean lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it

17.3 The automatic transmission dipstick

again. Read the fluid level at the end of the dipstick: it should be between the two notches.

4If topping-up is necessary, do so via the dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of the specified type (see illustration). Do not overfill.

5Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close the bonnet.

6Note that if the fluid level was below the minimum mark when checked or is in constant need of topping-up, check around the transmission for any signs of excessive fluid leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified without delay.

7If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or black this denotes the sign of a worn brake

17.4 Topping up the transmission fluid

band or transmission clutches, in which case have your Ford dealer check the transmission at the earliest opportunity.

18 Manual gearbox oil level check

1 Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and support it at front and rear. The vehicle must be level for an accurate check.

2If the transmission is hot after a run, allow it to cool for a few minutes. This is necessary because the oil can foam when hot and give a false level reading.

3Wipe clean around the filler/level plug, which is located on the left-hand side of the gearbox. Unscrew the plug with a square drive key and remove it

4Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick, check that the oil level is up to the bottom of the filler/level plug hole, or no more than 5 mm (0.2 in) below it.

5Top-up if necessary using clean oil of the specified type. Do not overfill; allow excess oil to drip out of the plug hole if necessary. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug.

6Frequent need for topping-up can only be due to leaks, which should be rectified. The rear extension oil seal can be renewed in situ after removing the propeller shaft (N type only).

7No periodic oil changing is specified, and no drain plug is fitted.

1•12 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

19 Hinge and lock check and lubrication

1Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the hinges and locks with a light machine oil.

2Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and exposed sections of inner cable with a smear of grease.

3Check the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. Where applicable, check the operation of the central locking system.

4Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or is no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

20 Spark plug renewal

SOHC and V6 engines

1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine.

2Make sure that the ignition is switched off before inspecting the HT leads to see if they carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number each lead using sticky tape or paint.

3Pull the HT lead connectors off the plugs. Pull on the connectors, not on the leads.

4Blow away any dirt from around the spark plug recesses in the cylinder head(s).

5Unscrew and remove the plugs, using a proprietary plug spanner or a spark plug socket, extension and ratchet.

6The condition of the plugs will tell much about the overall condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).

7If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich.

8If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition.

9Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to the threads of the new plugs. Make sure that the insulators are clean and that the screwed HT lead adapters are tight. Pay particular attention to the plug seating surfaces on OHC engines, since these plugs have no sealing washers (“taper seat” type) and any dirt will cause a bad seal.

10Screw each plug into its hole by hand. If a plug is reluctant to go in, do not force it with a spanner, but unscrew it and try again. If the plug is cross-threaded, it is the cylinder head which will be damaged.

It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16inch internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the aluminium cylinder head. Remove the rubber hose, and tighten the plug to the specified torque using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench. Fit the remaining spark plugs in the same manner.

11 Final tightening of the spark plugs should ideally be carried out using a torque wrench. The tightening torques are given in the Specifications. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten the plugs beyond the point where they contact the head as follows:

OHC (taper seat plugs) - One-sixteenth of a turn maximum

V6 (plugs with washers) - One-quarter of a turn maximum

12 If the taper seat type of plug is overtightened, the sealing faces will bite together and removal will be very difficult.

13Refit the HT leads to the plugs, paying attention to the cylinder numbers. Push each connector firmly onto its plug.

14Run the engine to verify that the HT leads have been refitted correctly.

DOHC engines

15 Proceed as described above whilst noting the following points.

a)Remove the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

b)The minimal length of number 3 HT lead makes removal from the spark plug difficult. It is advisable to remove this lead from the distributor prior to removing it from the spark plug.

c)The spark plugs are deeply recessed in the cylinder head and it will be necessary to use a spark plug socket with a long extension bar. If possible, use a spark plug socket with a rubber grip inside as this will hold onto the spark plug once loosened and will enable the spark plugs to be withdrawn and refitted more easily.

21 Auxiliary drivebelt check

SOHC and all V6 engines

1 All of these engines have one or two drivebelts which drive the water pump and alternator from the crankshaft pulley. When power steering is fitted, the same belts drive the steering pump. The air conditioning compressor, when fitted, is driven independently.

2 Periodically inspect the drivebelt(s) for fraying, cracks, glazing or other damage. Turn the engine so that the full length of the belt(s) can be viewed. Renew belts which are in poor condition. When twin drivebelts are fitted, both must be renewed together, even if only one is damaged.

3 Check the tension of the drivebelt(s) by pressing firmly with the fingers in the middle of the longest belt run (engine stopped). Tension is correct when the belt can be deflected by 10 mm (0.4 in) under firm finger pressure (see illustration).

4 Renewal and adjustment procedures for models with power steering are given in Chapter 11. For other models proceed as follows.

5Disconnect the battery negative lead.

6On models with air conditioning, remove the compressor drivebelt.

7Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting bolts. Swing the alternator towards the engine and slip the belt(s) off the pulleys.

8Fit the new belt(s) over the pulleys. Move the alternator away from the engine until the belt tension is correct, then tighten the alternator adjusting strap and pivot bolts. If it is necessary to lever against the alternator to achieve the correct tension, only do so using a wooden or plastic lever (see illustration).

9Refit and tension the air conditioning compressor drivebelt, when applicable.

10Reconnect the battery. If a new drivebelt has been fitted, run the engine for a few minutes, then stop it and recheck the tension.

11Check the tension of new belts again after a few hundred miles.

21.3 Checking drivebelt tension

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

21.8 Tightening the alternator strap bolt

DOHC engines

12 On this engine, the coolant/alternator drivebelt also drives the power steering pump and (where applicable) the air conditioning compressor. The drivebelt tension is set by an automatic tensioner assembly.

13The condition of the drivebelt should be checked as described above.

14An idea of the amount of wear which has taken place on the belt can be gained from the position of indicator mark (A) on the mounting bracket in relation to the block (B) on the tensioner arm (see illustration). When the belt is new the mark should be aligned with the top of the tensioner block. As the belt wears, the tensioner arm moves and the block on the arm will move slowly up in relation to the mark on the bracket. When the mark aligns with the bottom of the tensioner arm block the belt can be regarded as worn and should be replaced

(see illustration).

15To renew the belt, turn the automatic tensioner arm clockwise, using a 17 mm socket and a wrench on the boss in the centre of the pulley, and slide the belt from the pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.

16To fit a new belt, rotate the tensioner clockwise as during removal, then slide the belt over the pulleys. With the belt correctly located, slowly release the tensioner; the tensioner will automatically set the correct drivebelt tension.

22 Battery terminal check

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read through the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this manual.

1The battery fitted as original equipment is “maintenance-free”, and requires no maintenance apart from having the case kept clean, and the terminals clean and tight.

2To clean the battery terminals disconnect them, after having first removed the cover (later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get inside the battery.

21.14a Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner indicator position - DOHC engine

A Indicator mark

B Block

3Coat the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound before reconnecting them. Reconnect and tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.

4Keep the top of the battery clean and dry. Periodically inspect the battery tray for corrosion, and make good as necessary.

5Further information on the battery, charging and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5, and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

23 Engine valve clearance check

SOHC engines

1 Valve clearances are checked with the engine cold.

2On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.

3On fuel-injection models, remove the bracing strap which connects the inlet manifold to the right-hand side of the engine.

4On all models, identify the HT leads and disconnect them from the spark plugs. Unclip the leads from the rocker cover.

5Although not essential, it will make the engine easier to turn if the spark plugs are removed.

6Remove the ten bolts which secure the rocker cover, noting the location of the different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove the cover and gasket.

23.7 Measuring a valve clearance - SOHC engine

21.14b Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner wear indicator location (arrowed) - DOHC engine

7 One of the cam lobes will be seen to be pointing upwards. Measure the clearance between the base of this cam and the cam follower, finding the thickness of feeler blade which gives a firm sliding fit (see illustration).

8The desired valve clearances are given in the Specifications. Note that the clearances

for inlet and exhaust valves are different. 1 Numbering from the front (sprocket) end of the camshaft, the exhaust valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7,

and the inlet valves 2, 4, 6 and 8.

9If adjustment is necessary, slacken the ball-

pin locknut and screw the ball-pin up or down until the clearance is correct. Hold the ball-pin stationary and tighten the locknut (see illustration). Recheck the clearance after tightening the locknut in case the ball-pin has moved.

10Turn the engine to bring another cam lobe to the vertical position and repeat the above procedure. Carry on until all eight valves have been checked.

11Access to some of the ball-pins is made difficult by the carburettor or fuel-injection inlet manifold. To avoid having to remove the offending components, double cranked spanners or cutaway socket spanners can be used (see illustration).

12When adjustment is complete, refit the rocker cover using a new gasket. Make sure that the dovetail sections of the gasket fit together correctly.

13Fit the rocker cover bolts and reinforcing plates. Tighten the bolts as described in Chapter 2A Section 44, paragraph 11.

23.9 Adjusting a valve clearance - SOHC engine

1•14 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

23.11 Cutaway socket spanner

23.20 Adjusting a valve clearance -

V6 engine

23.22Cylinder numbering and HT lead connections - V6 engine

White arrow points to front of engine

23.19Inlet and exhaust valve location -

2.8litre V6 engine

14Refit the other disturbed components.

15Run the engine and check that there are no oil leaks from the rocker cover.

2.8 litre engine

16 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the preliminary steps:

a)Disconnect the battery negative lead

b)Remove the throttle mechanism cover, air cleaner cover, airflow meters and inlet trunking

c)Remove the HT leads from the spark plugs and unclip them from the rocker cover

d)Unbolt and remove the rocker covers

17Although not essential, it will be easier to turn the engine if the spark plugs are removed.

18Valve clearances must be adjusted with the engine cold (less than 40°C/104°F).

19Turn the engine, using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the crankshaft pulley timing mark is aligned with the TDC (zero) pointer on the timing cover and the valves of No 5 cylinder are overlapping, ie the exhaust valve is closing and the inlet valve is opening. (No 5 cylinder is the middle one on the left-hand bank - left being the vehicle’s left, not necessarily to operator’s.) (see illustration).

20When the valves of No 5 cylinder are in this position, check the valve clearances of No1 cylinder by inserting a feeler blade of the specified thickness between the rocker arm and the valve stem. Adjust the clearance, if necessary, by turning the rocker arm adjusting

screw until the specified clearance is obtained (see illustration). Inlet and exhaust valve are different.

21If the engine is now rotated one-third of a turn clockwise at the crankshaft, the valves of No 3 cylinder will be overlapping and the valves of No4 cylinder can be checked and adjusted.

22Proceed to adjust the clearances according to the firing order as follows. The cylinders are numbered (see illustration) and the valves are listed in their correct order, working from the front of the engine:

Valves overlapping

Valves to adjust

No 5 cylinder

No 1 cylinder (in, ex)

No 3 cylinder

No 4 cylinder (in, ex)

No 6 cylinder

No 2 cylinder (in, ex)

No 1 cylinder

No 5 cylinder (ex, in)

No 4 cylinder

No 3 cylinder (ex, in)

No 2 cylinder

No 6 cylinder (ex, in)

23Refit the rocker covers, using new gaskets if necessary. Tighten the rocker cover bolts to the specified torque.

24If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the other displaced components.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

25The operation for these engines is essentially as described for the 2.8 litre engine, noting that the valve arrangement is changed (see illustrations).

24 Engine inlet manifold security check - V6 only

Using a spanner of the appropriate size, check each manifold securing nut in turn whilst referring to the appropriate Sections in Chapter 2C for tightening sequences and torque loading figures.

25 Air conditioner condenser check

Remove the radiator grille and clean any leaves, insects etc. from the condenser coil and fins. Be very careful not to damage the condenser fins: use a soft brush, or a compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins

(see illustration).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

23.25a Valve arrangement for RH cylinder

 

23.25b Valve arrangement for LH cylinder

 

 

head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

 

head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

25.1 Cleaning the air conditioner

Upper arrow points to front of engine

 

Upper arrow points to front of engine

condenser fins

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

 

30 Driveshaft check

 

Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at

 

front and rear on ramps or axle stands.

 

Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.

 

Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds

 

and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must be

 

renewed without delay to avoid damage

 

occurring to the joint itself

 

Check the tightness of the final drive

 

mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange

26.3 Refrigerant sight glass (arrowed)

27.3 Final drive oil filler/level plug (arrowed) screws.

26 Air conditioner refrigerant charge check

1Remove the radiator grille being careful not to damage the condenser fins.

2Check the refrigerant charge as follows. The engine should be cold and the ambient temperature should be between 18° and 25°C (64° and 77°F).

3Start the engine and allow it to idle. Observe the refrigerant sight glass (see illustration) and have an assistant switch on the air conditioning to fan speed III. A few bubbles should be seen in the sight glass as the system starts up, but all bubbles should disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the system immediately if the charge is low and do not use it again until it has been recharged.

4Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and unions for security and good condition. Refit the radiator grille.

5The air conditioning system will lose a proportion of its charge through normal seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year - so it is as well to regard periodic recharging as a maintenance operation.

27 Final drive oil level check

1Check the final drive oil level as follows.

2Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see “Jacking”). The vehicle must be level.

3Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level plug (see illustration). Unscrew the plug with a hexagon key. Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick, check that the oil is no more than

10mm (0.4 in) below the plug hole.

4If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear oil of the specified type. Do not overfill. Frequent need for topping-up can only be due to leaks, which should be rectified.

5When the level is correct, refit the filler/level plug and tighten it.

6There is no requirement for periodic oil changing, and no drain plug is provided.

28 Automatic transmission selector linkage lubrication

Lubricate the transmission selector and kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol lubricant.

29 Steering and suspension security check

1 Examine all steering and suspension components for wear and damage. Pay particular attention to dust covers and gaiters, which if renewed promptly when damaged can save further damage to the component protected.

2 At the same intervals, check the front suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by levering up the arms (see illustration).

Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5 mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints can be checked in a similar manner, or by observing them whilst an assistant rocks the steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must be renewed.

3 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the vehicle up and down at each corner in turn. When released, it should come to rest within one complete oscillation. Continued movement, or squeaking and groaning noises from the shock absorber suggests that renewal is required.

29.2 Checking a front suspension lower arm balljoint

31 Underbody inspection

1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, have the whole of the underframe of the vehicle steamcleaned, engine compartment included, so

that a thorough inspection can be carried out 1 to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary.

2 Steam-cleaning is available at many garages, and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are not available, there are some excellent grease solvents available which can be brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.

3After cleaning, position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle stands.

4Using a strong light, work around the underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to Chapter 12 for details of repair.

32 Brake pipe and hose check

Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on) and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.

33 Idle speed linkage clean

On 2.0 litre engines, good electrical contact between the carburettor stepper motor plunger and the adjusting screw is essential to maintain a regular idle speed.

Clean the plunger and adjusting screw contact faces with abrasive paper followed by switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is available from electronic component shops.

1•16 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

34 Road test

Instruments and electrical equipment

1Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment.

2Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”.

4Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises.

5Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts.

7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission.

8Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating.

9Where applicable, check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.

10Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”.

35.2 Removing the power steering fluid dipstick

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

11Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard.

12Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking.

13Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.

14Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

35 Power steering fluid level check

1 The power steering fluid dipstick is incorporated in the reservoir filler cap. The reservoir is mounted on the pump. Observe scrupulous cleanliness when checking the level or topping-up.

2 The system should be at operating temperature and the engine switched off. Wipe clean around the reservoir filler cap. Unscrew the cap, withdraw the dipstick and wipe it with a clean lint-free rag. Reinsert the dipstick, screw the cap home, then unscrew it again and read the level on the dipstick. It should be up to the MAX or upper HOT mark (depending on the dipstick markings) (see illustration).

3Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of the specified type. Check for leaks if topping-up is frequently required.

4If the level is checked cold, use the MIN or FULL COLD mark on the dipstick for reference. Recheck the level at operating temperature.

36 Automatic choke check

On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner cover and check that the automatic choke is opening fully when the engine is hot.

37 Hot starting check

Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Stop the engine and immediately restart it. If the engine fails to start cleanly and immediately then refer to either Chapters 4 or 5 and check fuel feed adjustments.

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

38 Air cleaner filter element renewal

Carburettor models

SOHC engines

1 Remove the screws from the air cleaner cover (see illustration).

2Release the spring clips (when fitted), then lift off the cover (see illustration).

3Lift out the air cleaner element (see illustration). Wipe clean inside the air cleaner housing, but be careful not to sweep dirt into the carburettor throat.

4Where it is necessary to remove the air cleaner body for cleaning or repair, first disconnect the cold air inlet trunking from the spout (see illustration).

5 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and the hot air trunking from the spout or exhaust manifold shroud (see illustration).

38.1 Removing an air cleaner cover screw (carburettor model)

6Remove the remaining screw which secures the air cleaner to the valve cover, then lift off the air cleaner.

7Refit by reversing the removal operations.

38.2 Releasing an air cleaner cover clip (carburettor model)

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•17

38.3 Removing the air cleaner element (carburettor model)

DOHC engine

8 Proceed as described above whilst noting that the camshaft cover breather hose must be disconnected before the air cleaner can be removed.

Fuel-injection models

SOHC and V6 engines

9Release the four spring clips which secure the air cleaner cover (see illustration).

10Lift off the cover and move it aside. It is attached to the vane airflow meter(s): be careful not to strain the air trunking or meter wiring. To remove the cover completely, disconnect the meter(s) or unbolt the cover

(see illustration).

11Remove the air cleaner element, noting

38.9 Air cleaner cover spring clip (fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

38.4Disconnecting the air cleaner cold air inlet trunking (carburettor model)

which way up it is fitted (see illustration). Wipe clean inside the air cleaner body.

12Where it is necessary to remove the air cleaner body for cleaning or repair, remove the three securing nuts which are accessible from inside the left-hand wheel arch. Disengage the body from the air pick-up hose and remove it.

13Refit by reversing the removal operations.

DOHC engine

14 To renew the element, disconnect the battery negative lead.

15Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle speed control valve at the front of the plenum chamber.

16Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet hose from the air inlet tubing.

17Unscrew the securing nut, and release the

38.10 Airflow meter to cover bolts (arrowed) (fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

38.5 Air cleaner hot air trunking and manifold shroud (carburettor model)

air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine compartment front panel (see illustration).

18Release the air cleaner lid securing clips, then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly, disconnecting the breather hose from the air inlet tube.

19Lift out the air cleaner element, then wipe

the inside of the air cleaner lid and casing

1

clean (see illustration).

 

20Fit the new element with the sealing lip uppermost.

21Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

22To remove and refit the air cleaner housing, refer to paragraph 12.

23Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

39 Ignition system component check

1 Before disturbing any part of the ignition system, disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before disconnecting them from the spark plugs.

All engines except DOHC

3On V6 models, remove the screening can lid

(see illustration).

4Remove the coil-to-distributor HT lead (sometimes called the king lead) by disconnecting it from the coil tower and the distributor cap.

5Disconnect the other HT leads from the

38.11 Removing the air cleaner element

38.17 Air intake tube retaining nut

38.19 Removing the air cleaner element

(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

(fuel-injection DOHC)

(fuel-injection DOHC)

1•18 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

39.3 Removing a distributor can screening lid - V6 engine

distributor cap, making a sketch if necessary so that they can be reconnected to the same terminals. Remove the leads.

6 On V6 models, remove the distributor screening can (see illustration).

7 Release the two clips or screws which secure the distributor cap. Remove the cap

(see illustration).

8Note that if the distributor cap is secured by clips, the engine must not be cranked with the cap removed. This is because it is possible for a spring clip to foul the rotating parts of the distributor and cause damage.

9Remove the rotor arm. It may simply pull off, or it may be secured by two screws (see illustration). The rotor arm tips may be coated with silicone grease - if so, do not rub it off.

10Clean the HT leads and distributor cap

39.9 Removing a rotor arm

39.6Removing a distributor screening can

-V6 engine

with a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other deposits from the connectors and terminals. Also clean the coil tower.

11Renew the HT leads if they are cracked, burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter is available, measure the resistance of the leads. The desired value is given in the Specifications of Chapter 5.

12Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked or badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of “tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the centre of the cap, make sure that it moves freely, and is not excessively worn.

13Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with abrasive paper (but see paragraph 9 first). Renew the arm if it is cracked or badly burnt.

14Commence reassembly by fitting the rotor

39.17 HT lead identification at distributor cap - V6 engine

39.7 Removing a distributor cap

arm to the distributor. It is positively located by a notch or shaped pegs so it cannot be fitted the wrong way round. Tighten the securing screws, when applicable.

15Refit the distributor cap and secure it with the clips or screws.

16On V6 models, refit the screening can.

17Reconnect the HT leads to the distributor cap, making sure that they are correctly fitted. The No 1 connector on the cap is marked (see illustration).

18On V6 models, refit the screening can lid.

19Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs and coil.

20Reconnect the battery and run the engine.

DOHC engines

21Unclip the lower section of the distributor shield from the upper section, then unscrew the two securing nuts, and withdraw the upper section of the shield from the studs on the upper timing chain cover (see illustrations).

22Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the leads. Similarly, disconnect the HT lead from the coil, and release it from the clip on the timing chain cover.

23Using a suitable Torx key or socket, unscrew the two distributor cap securing screws, then lift off the cap.

24The rotor arm is a push-fit on the end of the rotor shaft (see illustration).

25If desired, the rotor housing can be pulled from the timing chain cover.

26Inspect all components as described in

39.21a Unclipping the lower section . . .

39.21b . . . and the upper section of the distributor shield - DOHC engine

39.24Removing the distributor cap and rotor arm - DOHC engine

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years 1•19

40.3 Brake band adjuster screw (A) and locknut (B)

the previous sub Section.

27 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the rotor arm will only fit in one position.

40 Automatic transmission brake band adjustment

Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool No 17-005, or equivalent - will be required for this job.

1Raise and support the front of the vehicle.

2Disconnect the downshift (kickdown) cable from the transmission when so equipped.

3Release the locknuts on the two brake band adjuster screws. Back off each adjuster screw a couple of turns (see illustration).

4Using the torque wrench, tighten one adjusting screw to 13 Nm (10 lbf ft). Remove the torque wrench and back off the adjuster screw exactly two full turns from this position, then hold the screw and tighten the locknut.

5Repeat the operations on the other adjuster.

6Reconnect the downshift cable, when applicable, then lower the vehicle.

41.4 Fuel filter outlet union (arrowed) - OHC engine

41 Fuel filter renewal

OHC engines

1Fitted to all fuel-injected models, the filter can be renewed as follows. Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.

3Place a drain pan under the fuel filter. Take adequate fire precautions.

4Wipe clean the area around the filter inlet and outlet unions, then disconnect them (see illustration). Caution: Fuel under pressure may spray out as the unions are slackened.

5Slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw the filter from the clamp. Dispose of the filter safely, remember it is full of fuel.

6Fit the new filter into the clamp,observing the arrows on the filter indicating the direction of fuel flow. If there is a plastic band or sleeve on the filter, position the clamp over the sleeve to prevent chafing. Tighten the clamp bolt.

7Refit the inlet and outlet unions, using new sealing washers. Tighten the union bolts.

8Reconnect the battery. Have an assistant

42.1 Pulling the vent valve from the oil separator - SOHC engine

switch the ignition on and off a few times to pressurise the system; watch the filter for leakage as this is done.

9 Lower the vehicle on completion.

V6 engines

10 This operation is essentially the same as described above, noting that the fuel system should first be depressurised, see Chapter 4, 1 Section 28.

11 Once the new filter has been installed, switch the ignition on and off five times, without cranking the engine, to pressurise the system then check the filter unions for leaks.

42 Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal

Renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve by pulling it from the oil separator and loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it into the oil separator grommet.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can cause oil leaks.

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

43 Brake hydraulic system seal and hose renewal

If in doubt as to the condition of any of the brake system seals and hoses, then renew defective items whilst referring to the relevant Sections of Chapter 10.

44 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal

1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will be needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres (nearly half a gallon).

2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and support the front of the vehicle and remove the front wheels.

3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.

4Open both front bleed screws one full turn. Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing the free end of each tube in a jar.

5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke to allow the master cylinder to refill.

6When air emerges from both bleed screws, stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper without disconnecting it and remove the inboard brake pad.

7Depress the caliper piston, using a purposemade tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold the

piston depressed and have the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges from the bleed screw again.

8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so that the piston is not accidentally ejected.

9Repeat the purging operation on the righthand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the bleed screw yet.

10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid. Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the bleed screw.

11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the end of a downstroke.

1•20 Every 2 years

12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of the piston. Have the assistant depress the brake pedal gently in order to move the caliper piston out.

13With the pedal held depressed, slacken the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal can now be released.

14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-

hand brake pad and caliper.

15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard pad again. Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand caliper.

16Bleed the rear brakes as described in Chapter 10.

17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts.

18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up to the discs, then make a final check of the

hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the reservoir cap.

45 Camshaft drivebelt renewal - SOHC engines

Camshaft

drivebelt

renewal

is

recommended as a precautionary measure. Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Sections 13 and 45 for the full renewal procedure.

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

46 Engine coolant renewal

1 Before proceeding, note the precautions given in Chapter 3, Section 1.

2Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3Remove the expansion tank cap. Take precautions against scalding if the system is hot.

4Place a drain pan of adequate capacity beneath the radiator drain plug. Unscrew the plug, without removing it, and allow the coolant to drain (see illustration). On OHC engines, release the hose clip and remove the rubber cap from the bleed spigot on top of the thermostat housing (see illustration). On V6 engines, remove the bleed screw (if fitted) from the radiator top hose.

5Place another drain pan below the cylinder block drain plug, which is located on the righthand side of the engine (except DOHC engine which has no plug). Remove the drain plug and allow the coolant to drain from the block.

6Dispose of the old coolant safely, or keep it in a covered container if it is to be re-used.

7 Flushing should not be necessary unless periodic renewal of the coolant has been neglected, or unless plain water has been used as coolant. In either case the coolant will appear rusty and dark in colour. Flushing is then required and should be carried out as follows.

8 Drain the system and disconnect the top hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose into the radiator and run water into the radiator until it flows clear from the drain plug.

9Run the hose into the expansion tank (OHC engines) or into the radiator top hose (V6 engines) until clean water comes out of the cylinder block drain plug. On DOHC engines there is no drain plug in the cylinder block, so the engine should be flushed until water runs clear from the radiator bottom hose.

10If, after a reasonable period the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent.

11Flush the heater matrix by disconnecting one of the heater hoses and running the hose into that.

12In severe cases of contamination the radiator should be removed, inverted and

flushed in the reverse direction to normal flow, ie with the water going in at the bottom and out at the top. Shake the radiator gently while doing this to dislodge any deposits.

13Refit any hoses which were disturbed, making sure that they and their clips are in good condition. Refit the cylinder block drain plug and tighten the radiator drain plug.

14On OHC engines, make sure that the bleed spigot cap is still removed (not DOHC). On V6 engines, check, if applicable, that the bleed screw is still removed.

15Pour coolant in through the expansion tank filler hole until the level is up to the MAX line.

16Refit the bleed spigot cap or screw when coolant starts to emerge from the spigot. Tighten the clip.

17Squeeze the radiator hoses to help disperse airlocks. Top-up the coolant further if necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion tank cap.

18Run the engine up to operating temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop the engine and allow it to cool, then top-up the coolant again to the MAX mark if necessary.

46.4a Radiator drain plug (arrowed) - OHC engine

46.4b Releasing the bleed spigot cap - OHC engine

 

Specifications

1•21

Engine

 

 

 

Oil filter type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion C102

 

 

Valve clearances (cold):

 

 

 

SOHC:

 

 

 

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

 

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

 

V6:

 

 

 

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.35 mm (0.014 in)

 

 

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.40 mm (0.016 in)

 

 

Cooling system

 

 

 

Specific gravity at 45 to 50% antifreeze concentration . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.069 to 1.077

 

 

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

 

 

 

Fuel system

 

 

 

Air filter element type:

 

 

 

1.8 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion W118

 

 

2.0 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion W152

 

 

2.0 litre and V6 (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion U507

 

 

Fuel filter type:

 

 

 

All models (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion L204

 

 

Ignition system

 

 

 

Spark plugs:

 

 

 

1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion RF7YCC or RF7YC

 

 

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

1

2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion RN7YCC or RN7YC

 

2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

 

2.9 litre V6 with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

 

Spark plug electrode gap*:

 

 

 

Champion RF7YCC and RN7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.8 mm

 

 

Champion RF7YC and RN7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.7 mm

 

 

Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.8 mm

 

 

Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.7 mm

 

 

Champion RS9YCC and RS9YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm

 

 

Ignition HT lead set:

 

 

 

Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30 k ohms maximum per lead

 

 

Type:

 

 

 

1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion LS-09 boxed set

 

 

1.8 and 2.0 litre (Male distributor fitting) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion LS-10 boxed set

 

 

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be

fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

 

 

 

Brakes

 

 

 

Brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.5 mm (0.06 in)

 

 

Tyres

 

 

 

Tyre sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

175 SR/TR/HR 14, 185/70 HR/TR/VR 14, 195/65 HR 15, 205/60

 

VR 15

 

 

Tyre pressures: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Front

Rear

 

Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

 

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bar (30 lbf/in2)

2.9 bar (42 lbf/in2)

 

Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier

for correct pressures if necessary.

 

 

 

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

 

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 28

16 to 21

 

Engine block coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 25

16 to 18

 

Spark plugs:

 

 

 

1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to28

15 to 21

 

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15 to 21

11 to 15

 

2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30 to 40

22 to 30

 

2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15 to 21

11 to 15

 

Manual gearbox filler/level and drain plugs:

 

 

 

N9 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23 to 27

17 to 20

 

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29 to 41

21 to 30

 

Brake caliper slide bolts:

 

 

 

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 25

15 to 18

 

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

31 to 35

23 to 26

 

Roadwheel bolts (steel and alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 100

52 to 74

 

1•22

Notes

 

 

2A•1

Chapter 2 Part A:

1.8 & 2.0 litre SOHC engines

Contents

Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Auxiliary shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Auxiliary shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Auxiliary shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Camshaft and cam followers - examination and renovation . . . . . .30 Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .27 Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .28 Cylinder head - decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation . . . .34 Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Engine and gearbox - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Engine - refitting without gearbox/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Engine - refitting with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.48

 

Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle . . . . . . .

.5

 

Engine - removal with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.6

 

Engine - separation from manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.7

 

Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

 

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

 

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

 

Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33

 

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.1

 

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51

 

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . .

.2

 

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.3

 

Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.4

 

Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20

 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Oil pump - examination and renovation

26

2A

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38

Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19

 

 

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .

29

 

Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

37

 

Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21

 

Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

39

 

Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16

 

Timing belt - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32

 

Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

 

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13

 

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

 

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

Fairly easy, suitable

Fairly difficult,

Difficult, suitable for

Very difficult,

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

DIY or professional

Specifications

General

1.8 HC E

2.0 HC

2.0 HC EFi

Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

REC

NEL

NRA

Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.20 (3.39)

90.82 (3.58)

90.82 (3.58)

Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.95 (3.03)

76.95 (3.03)

76.95 (3.03)

Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1796 (109.6)

1993 (121.6)

1993 (121.6)

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.5:1

9.2:1

9.2:1

Compression pressure at cranking speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in2)

 

Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

66 @ 5400

77 @ 5200

85 @ 5500

Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

140 @ 3500

157 @ 4000

160 @ 4000

Lubrication system

 

 

 

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See “Lubricants and fluids”

 

Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.75 litres (6.6 pints) approx

 

Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):

 

 

 

At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bar

 

 

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.5 bar

 

 

Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4.0 to 4.7 bar

 

 

Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.3 to 0.5 bar

 

 

2A•2 SOHC engines

Oil pump

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bi-rotor

 

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From auxiliary shaft

 

Operating clearances:

 

 

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 to 0.30 mm

 

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 to 0.20 mm

 

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.10 mm

 

Cylinder block

1.8 (REC)

2.0 (NEL and NRA)

Cast identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18S

20S

Bore diameter:

 

 

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.180 to 86.190 mm

90.800 to 90.810 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.190 to 86.200 mm

90.810 to 90.820 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.200 to 86.210 mm

90.820 to 90.830 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.210 to 86.220 mm

90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize grade 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.690 to 86.700 mm

91.310 to 91.320 mm

Oversize grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.700 to 86.710 mm

91.320 to 91.330 mm

Oversize grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.710 to 86.720 mm

91.330 to 91.340 mm

Standard service grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not stated

90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not stated

91.330 to 91.340 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not stated

91.830 to 91.840 mm

Crankshaft

 

 

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

 

Main bearing journal diameter:

 

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56.970 to 56.990 mm

 

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56.720 to 56.740 mm

 

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56.470 to 56.490 mm

 

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56.220 to 56.240 mm

 

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55.970 to 55.990 mm

 

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.010 to 0.064 mm

 

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

 

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51.980 to 52.000 mm

 

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51.730 to 51.750 mm

 

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51.480 to 51.500 mm

 

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51.230 to 51.250 mm

 

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50.980 to 51.000 mm

 

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.006 to 0.060 mm

 

Thrustwasher thickness:

 

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.30 to 2.35 mm

 

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.50 to 2.55 mm

 

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.08 to 0.28 mm

 

Connecting rods

 

 

Big-end parent bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55.000 to 55.020 mm

 

Small-end bush internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23.964 to 23.976 mm

 

Pistons

1.8 (REC)

2.0 (NEL and NRA)

Diameter:

 

 

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.145 to 86.155 mm

90.765 to 90.775 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.155 to 86.165 mm

90.775 to 90.785 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.165 to 86.175 mm

90.785 to 90.795 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.175 to 86.185 mm

90.795 to 90.805 mm

Service standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.170 to 86.195 mm

90.790 to 90.815 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.670 to 86.695 mm

91.290 to 91.315 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

87.170 to 87.195 mm

91.790 to 91.815 mm

Clearance in bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.015 to 0.050 mm

0.015 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring end gaps:

 

 

Top and centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.3 to 0.5 mm

0.4 to 0.6 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.4 to 1.4 mm

0.4 to 1.4 mm

Gudgeon pins

 

 

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68.0 to 68.8 mm

 

Diameter:

 

 

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23.994 to 23.997 mm

 

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23.997 to 24.000 mm

 

Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24.000 to 24.003 mm

 

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.008 to 0.014 mm

 

Interference in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.018 to 0.039 mm

 

SOHC engines 2A•3

Cylinder head

Identification mark:

 

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44° 30’ to 45° 00’

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.5 to 2.0 mm

Valve guide bore:

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.063 to 8.088 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.263 to 8.288 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.463 to 8.488 mm

Camshaft bearing parent bores:

 

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45.072 to 45.102 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47.692 to 47.722 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

48.072 to 48.102 mm

Auxiliary shaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm

Camshaft

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Toothed belt

 

Thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.98 to 4.01 mm

 

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.104 to 0.204 mm

 

Cam lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.3323 mm

 

Cam length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36.26 to 36.60 mm

 

Valve timing:

 

 

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24° BTDC

 

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

64° ABDC

 

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70° BBDC

 

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18° ATDC

2A

Bearing journal diameter:

 

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.987 to 42.013 mm

 

 

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44.607 to 44.633 mm

 

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44.987 to 45.013 mm

 

Bearing bush internal diameter:

 

 

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42.035 to 42.055 mm

 

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44.655 to 44.675 mm

 

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45.035 to 45.055 mm

 

Valve clearances (cold)

 

 

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

 

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

 

Inlet valves

 

 

Length:

 

 

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

111.75 to 112.75 mm

 

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110.65 to 111.65 mm

 

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.80 to 42.20 mm

 

Stem diameter:

 

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.025 to 8.043 mm

 

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

+0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

 

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.020 to 0.063 mm

 

Exhaust valves

 

 

Length:

 

 

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

111.15 to 112.15 mm

 

2.0 (NEL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110.05 to 111.05 mm

 

2.0 (NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110.75 to 111.75 mm

 

Head diameter:

 

 

1.8 (REL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.00 to 34.40 mm

 

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35.80 to 36.20 mm

 

Stem diameter:

 

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.999 to 8.017 mm

 

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

+0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

 

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.046 to 0.089 mm

 

Valve springs

 

 

Free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47.0 mm

 

Inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23.45 to 23.95 mm

 

Wire diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.87 to 3.93 mm

 

Number of turns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4.7

 

2A•4 SOHC engines

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 102

65 to 75

Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 47

30 to 35

Crankshaft pulley bolt:

 

 

 

1.8 (REC) and 2.0 (NEL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 115

81 to 85

 

2.0 (NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 to 130

85 to 96

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50

33 to 37

Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50

33 to 37

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 to 70

47 to 52

Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21

13 to 16

Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13

7 to 10

Sump bolts (see text):

 

 

 

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2

0.7 to 1.5

 

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8

4 to 6

 

Stage 3 (after 20 minutes running) . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10

6 to 7

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28

16 to 21

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15

9 to 11

Valve adjustment ball-pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 55

37 to 41

Cylinder head bolts (see text):

 

 

 

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40

26 to 30

 

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 75

52 to 55

 

Stage 3 (after 5 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90°

Tighten further 90°

Rocker cover bolts (see text):

 

 

 

Bolts 1 to 6 - Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8

4 to 6

 

Bolts 7 and 8 - Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3

1.5 to 2

 

Bolts 9 and 10 - Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8

4 to 6

 

Bolts 7 and 8 - Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8

4 to 6

Front cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 17

10 to 13

Timing belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25

15 to 18

Oil pump pick-up pipe:

 

 

 

To pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 14

8 to 10

 

To block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21

13 to 16

Engine mounting to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 51

30 to 38

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 General information

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line, single

 

 

overhead camshaft type (see illustration). It is

 

 

mounted longitudinally at the front of the car.

 

 

Three versions are available: 1.8 litre

 

 

carburettor, 2.0 litre carburettor and 2.0 litre

 

 

fuel-injection.

 

 

 

The crankshaft incorporates five main

 

 

bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the

 

 

centre main bearing in order to control

 

 

crankshaft endfloat.

 

 

 

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt

 

 

and operates the slightly angled valve via cam

 

 

followers which pivot on ball-pins.

 

 

 

The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by

 

 

the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil

 

 

pump and on some models the fuel pump.

 

 

1.1 Exploded view of the SOHC engine

1Timing cover

2Cam follower

3Retaining spring clip

4Crankshaft front oil seal housing

5Auxiliary shaft front cover

6Thrust plate

7Auxiliary shaft

8Thrust plate

9Vent valve

10Oil separator

11Crankshaft rear oil seal

12Thrust washer

SOHC engines 2A•5

The cylinder head is of crossflow design with the inlet manifold mounted on the lefthand side and the exhaust manifold mounted on the right-hand side.

Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump which draws oil through a strainer located inside the sump, and forces it through a fullflow filter into the engine oil galleries where it is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends. The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The camshaft and cam followers are supplied with oil via a drilled spray tube from the centre camshaft bearing.

A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system is employed whereby piston blow-by gases are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil separator and on carburettor models a control valve.

2Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried out without removing the engine, although the work may be easier and quicker with the engine removed:

a)Removal and refitting of the cylinder head

b)Removal and refitting of the camshaft (after removing the cylinder head)

c)Removal and refitting of the timing belt and sprockets

d)Removal and refitting of the sump and oil pump

e)Removal and refitting of the pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings

f)Renewal of the engine mountings

g)Renewal of the crankshaft oil seals

h)Removal and refitting of the auxiliary shaft j)Removal and refitting of the flywheel

3Major operations requiring engine removal

The engine must be removed from the vehicle for the following operations:

a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings

b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

4 Methods of engine removal

The engine may be lifted out either on its own or together with the gearbox. Unless work is also necessary on the gearbox it is recommended that the engine is removed on its own. Where automatic transmission is fitted, the engine should be removed on its own owing to the additional weight. If the engine and gearbox are removed together, they will have to be tilted at a very steep angle; make sure that the range of the lifting tackle is adequate.

5 Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the bonnet.

3On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner. On fuel-injection models, remove the air cleaner cover, vane airflow meter and air inlet trunking.

4If a splash guard is fitted, remove it.

5Release the securing clips and bolts and remove the upper half of the fan shroud. On carburettor models remove the lower half of the shroud too.

6Drain the cooling system.

7Disconnect the radiator top and bottom hoses from the thermostat housing and water pump. Disconnect the top hose spur from the expansion tank and unclip it.

8Disconnect the heater hoses from the water pump and from the inlet manifold or automatic choke housing. Unclip the hoses.

9On models with power steering, remove the steering pump.

10Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the inlet manifold, labelling them if there is any possibility of confusion.

11Disconnect the following wiring, as applicable:

a)Alternator

b)Temperature gauge sender

c)Engine management temperature sensor

d)Distributor

e)Oil pressure switch

f)Automatic choke and thermo-switch

g)Carburettor stepper motor

h)Fuel-injection system sub-harness

j)Inlet manifold heater

12Disconnect the HT lead from the coil.

13If an oil level sensor is fitted, remove it

(see illustration).

14Unbolt the throttle cable bracket, disconnect the inner cable and move the cable and bracket aside. Also disconnect the downshift cable on automatic transmission models.

15On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump (mechanised type) and from the carburettor. Be prepared for fuel spillage.

16On fuel-injection models, disconnect the fuel supply union from the injector rail, and the fuel return pipe from the fuel pressure

5.13 Oil level sensor

regulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and for some spray if the supply side is still under pressure.

17Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.

18On models with air conditioning, unbolt the compressor and move it aside without straining the flexible hoses.

19Remove the starter motor.

20Although not specified by the manufacturers, the author advises that either the radiator or the cooling fan be removed, to reduce the risk of damage.

21Attach the lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes on the engine, so that when suspended the engine will be roughly horizontal. Take the weight of the engine.

22Remove the single nut on each side which secures each engine bearer to its mounting.

23Working under the vehicle, remove the bracing strap which connects the engine and transmission. Unbolt the adapter plate from the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.

24On automatic transmission models, unbolt the torque converter from the driveplate.

25Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts. Note the location of the battery earth strap.

26Support the transmission, preferably with a trolley jack.

27 Check that nothing has been overlooked, 2A then raise the engine and draw it forwards

clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not allow the weight of the engine to hang on the shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.

28On automatic transmission models, make sure that the torque converter stays engaged with the oil pump in the transmission as the engine is withdrawn,

29Lift the engine out of the engine bay and take it to the bench.

6 Engine - removal with manual gearbox

1Engine removal with automatic transmission is not recommended.

2Proceed as in the previous Section, paragraphs 1 to 18.

3Disconnect the wiring from the starter motor, and release the battery earth cable from its bellhousing bolt.

4Remove the radiator.

5Remove the propeller shaft.

6Disconnect and unclip the reversing light switch and speedometer sender unit wiring.

7Disconnect the clutch cable.

8Unbolt the anti-roll bar mounting brackets and lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.

9From inside the vehicle remove the gear lever.

10Drain the engine oil.

11Unhook the exhaust system from its mounting on the gearbox crossmember. Either support the system or remove it completely.

12Support the gearbox, preferably with a trolley jack, then unbolt and remove the gearbox crossmember. Note the earth strap (if fitted) under one of the crossmember bolts.

13Attach lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes on the engine so that when suspended it will be at an angle of approximately 45°.

2A•6 SOHC engines

14Take the weight of the engine and remove the two engine bearer-to-mounting nuts.

15Lift the engine/transmission, at the same time lowering the trolley jack. Draw the unit forwards and lift it out of the engine bay.

16Temporarily refit the anti-roll bar if the vehicle is to be moved.

7 Engine - separation from manual gearbox

1With the engine and gearbox on the bench, remove the starter motor.

2Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate.

3Remove the bracing strap and the remaining engine-to-bellhousing bolts.

4With the aid of an assistant draw the gearbox off the engine. Do not allow the weight of the gearbox to hang on the input shaft.

8Engine dismantling - general information

1 It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand, but if this is not available, stand the engine on a strong bench at a comfortable working height. Failing this, it will have to be stripped down on the floor.

2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.

3Avoid working with the engine on a concrete floor, as grit can be a real source of trouble.

4As parts are removed, clean them in paraffin. However, do not immerse parts with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove, usually requiring a high pressure hose.

Clean oilways with nylon pipe

cleaners.

5It is advisable to have suitable containers to hold small items according to their use, as this will help when reassembling the engine and also prevent possible losses.

6Always obtain complete sets of gaskets when the engine is being dismantled, but retain the old gaskets with a view of using them as a pattern to make a replacement if a new one is not available.

8.10This valve spring compressor is used by hooking it under the camshaft

7When possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers in their location after being removed, as this helps protect the threads and will also be helpful when reassembling the engine.

8Retain unserviceable components in order to compare them with the new parts supplied.

9A Torx key, size T55, will be needed for dealing with the cylinder head bolts. A 12spline key (to fit bolt size M8) will be needed for the oil pump bolts. Other Torx and 12spline bolts may be encountered; sets of the keys required to deal with them are available from most motor accessory shops and tool factors.

10Another tool which is useful, though by no means essential, is a valve spring compressor of the type which hooks under the camshaft (see illustration). As a Ford tool this bears the number 21-005-A; proprietary versions may also be available.

9 Ancillary components - removal

Before dismantling the engine into its main components, the following ancillary components can be removed. The actual items removed, and the sequence of removal, will depend on the work to be done:

Inlet manifold and associated items Exhaust manifold

Fuel pump (mechanical type) and pushrod Alternator

Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs Fan, water pump and thermostat

Oil pressure switch (see illustration) Temperature gauge sender

9.1a Engine oil pressure switch (arrowed)

Oil filter and dipstick

Engine bearer arms (see illustration)

Crankcase ventilation components Clutch

Alternator mounting bracket (see illustration)

10 Cylinder head - removal

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out the following preliminary operations:

a)Disconnect the battery negative lead

b)Drain the cooling system

c)Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds

d)Disconnect the radiator top hose from the thermostat housing, and the spur from the expansion tank

e)Disconnect the wiring from the temperature gauge sender

f)Remove the distributor cap, HT leads and

spark plugs

2Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing cover (see illustration). Note the location of the cover in the special bolt.

3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal housing, and the pointer on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the cylinder head (see illustrations). Note the position of the distributor rotor arm, and mark its contact end in relation to the rim of the distributor body.

4Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolts. Pivot

9.1b Removing an engine bearer arm

9.1c Removing the alternator bracket

10.2 Removing the timing cover

 

 

 

SOHC engines 2A•7

10.3a Alignment of crankshaft and camshaft timing marks, and distributor rotor position, for No 1 firing

the tensioner to release the load on the belt and slip the belt off the camshaft sprocket. Do not kink the belt, or get oil or grease on it.

5 Remove the ten bolts which secure the rocker cover, noting the location of the different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove the cover and gasket.

6 Using a Torx key, slacken the cylinder head bolts half a turn at a time in the reverse of the tightening sequence.

10.3b Camshaft sprocket pointer aligned with the indentation on the cylinder head

7 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is stuck, tap it with a wooden or plastic mallet to free it. Do not lever between the head and block, or the mating surfaces may be damaged. Do not crank the engine to free the head, as the pistons may contact the valves.

8 Place the cylinder head on a couple of wooden blocks so that the protruding valves are not damaged.

11 Camshaft - removal

1Remove the cylinder head as described in the previous Section.

2Hold the camshaft with a spanner on the lug behind the sixth cam. Unscrew and remove the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration).

3 Remove the camshaft sprocket using a puller if necessary. Remove the backplate

(see illustration).

4Unscrew the bolts and remove the camshaft oil supply tube (see illustration).

5Note how the cam follower retaining spring clips are fitted, then unhook them from the cam followers.

6If the special tool 21-005-A is available, compress the valve springs in turn and remove the cam followers, keeping them identified for location. Alternatively loosen the locknuts and back off the ball-pins until the cam followers can be removed (see illustration).

7Unscrew the bolts and remove the camshaft thrust plate (see illustration).

8Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the rear of the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the bearings (see illustration).

9Prise the oil seal from the front bearing (see illustration).

2A

11.2 Removing the camshaft sprocket bolt and sprocket

11.3 Removing the camshaft sprocket backplate

11.4 Removing the camshaft oil supply tube

11.6 Removing the cam followers

11.7 Removing the camshaft thrust plate

11.8 Removing the camshaft

11.9 Prise out the camshaft bearing oil seal

 

 

 

2A•8 SOHC engines

12 Cylinder head - dismantling

1Remove the camshaft as described in the previous Section. (If tool 21-005-A is available, leave the camshaft in place until the valves have been removed).

2Using a valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring in turn until the split collets can be removed. Release the compressor and remove the cap and spring, keeping them identified for location (see illustrations).

If the caps are difficult to

remove do not continue to

tighten the compressor, but gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer. Always ensure that the

compressor is held firmly over the cap.

3Remove each valve from the cylinder head, but identify them for location (see illustration).

4Prise the valve stem oil seals from the tops of the valve guides (see illustration).

5If necessary unscrew the cam follower ballpins from the cylinder head, keeping them identified for location.

6If necessary unscrew the bolts and remove the timing belt tensioner.

7Remove the thermostat and housing.

8Remove the temperature gauge sender unit.

9Remove the manifold studs if wished by locking two nuts onto each stud in turn and unscrewing it.

13 Timing belt and sprockets - removal

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out the following preliminary operations:

a)Disconnect the battery negative lead

b)Remove the radiator and disconnect the hose from the thermostat housing

c)Remove the accessory drivebelt(s)

2Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing cover. Note the location of the cover in the special bolt.

3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned

12.2a Compressing a valve spring

12.3 Removing a valve

with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal housing, and the pointer on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the cylinder head. Note the position of the distributor rotor arm. Mark the contact end of the rotor in relation to the rim of the distributor body.

4Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining bolts then pivot the tensioner pulley away from the belt, to obtain maximum drivebelt free play (see illustration). Hold the tensioner pulley in this position and securely retighten the retaining bolts.

5Mark the running direction of the belt if it is to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft sprocket.

6Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent the crankshaft from turning by engaging 5th

12.2b Removing a valve spring and cap

12.4 Removing a valve stem oil seal

gear (manual gearbox), or by removing the starter motor and jamming the ring gear teeth. Alternatively, if the pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a couple of bolts and use a lever between them to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn very far, or piston/valve contact may occur.

7Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily, refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see illustration). A puller will almost certainly be required on fuel-injection models.

8Remove the guide washer from in front of the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or get oil on it if it is to be re-used.

9Remove the crankshaft sprocket using a puller if necessary (see illustration).

13.4 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed)

13.7 Using a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley

13.8 Remove the guide washer from in front of the crankshaft sprocket

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