Fiat Brava 1995 2000 User Manual

FIAT Bravo & Brava

Service and Repair Manual

AK Legg LAEMIMI, Spencer Drayton & RM Jex

Models covered

FIAT Bravo and Brava models with 4-cylinder petrol engines, including special/limited editions

1.2 litre (1242 cc), 1.4 litre (1370 cc), 1.6 litre (1581 cc) and 1.8 litre (1747 cc)

(3572 336)

Covers	major mechanical	features of	1.6	and 1.8	litre Marea/Weekend		models
Does	not cover 2.0 litre	(HGT) models,	or	Diesel	engine	versions

© Haynes Publishing 2000	A B O D E
	F G H U
	K L M N O
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series	PQ

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 572 9

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed in the USA

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes

4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir

92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska A B

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR FIAT BRAVO/BRAVA

I n t r o d u c t i o n Safety first!

Roadside repairs

Introduction

If y o u r car w o n ' t start

J u m p starting

W h e e l c h a n g i n g

Identifying leaks

T o w i n g

Weekly checks

Introduction

U n d e r b o n n e t c h e c k points

Engine oil level

C o o l a n t level

Brake an d c l u t c h fluid level

P o w e r	steering fluid		level
T y r e c o n d i t i o n		a n d	pressure
Battery
B u l b s a n d fuses
S c r e e n	w a s h e r	fluid	level
W i p e r	blades

Lubricants and fluids

Tyre pressures

MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Servicing specifications

M a i n t e n a n c e s c h e d u l e

M a i n t e n a n c e p r o c e d u r e s

P a g e	0 « 4
P a g e	0«5
P a g e	0«6
P a g e	0 * 6
P a g e	0«7
P a g e	0 « 8
P a g e	0 * 9
P a g e	0 * 9
P a g e	0 « 1 0
P a g e	0 * 1 0
P a g e	0 * 1 2
P a g e	0 * 1 2
P a g e	0 « 1 3
P a g e	0 » 1 3
P a g e	0 * 1 4
P a g e	0«15
P a g e	0»15
P a g e	0 * 1 6
P a g e	0 * 1 6
P a g e	0 » 1 7
P a g e	0 » 1 7

P a g e	1*2
P a g e	1»3
P a g e	1*7

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and associated systems

1.2	litre engine		in-car repair		p r o c e d u r e s
1.4	litre	engine	in-car	repair	p r o c e d u r e s
1.6	litre e n g i n e		in-car	repair	p r o c e d u r e s
1.8	litre	e n g i n e	in-car repair		p r o c e d u r e s

Engine removal a n d overhaul p r o c e d u r e s

C o o l i n g ,	heating a n d ventilation s y s t e m s
Fuel s y s t e m		- single - point		injection
Fuel s y s t e m		- m u l t i - p o i n t		injection
Exhaust	a n d e m i s s i o n		c o n t r o l s y s t e m s
Starting	a n d c h a r g i n g		s y s t e m s
Ignition	s y s t e m

Transmission

C l u t c h

M a n u a l t r a n s m i s s i o n

A u t o m a t i c t r a n s m i s s i o n

Driveshafts

Brakes and suspension

Braking s y s t e m

S u s p e n s i o n a n d steering

Body equipment

B o d y w o r k a n d	fittings
B o d y electrical	s y s t e m s

Wiring diagrams

REFERENCE

D i m e n s i o n s a n d w e i g h t s

C o n v e r s i o n f a c t o r s

B u y i n g	s p a r e	parts
Vehicle	identification		n u m b e r s
J a c k i n g	a n d vehicle		s u p p o r t
D i s c o n n e c t i n g		t h e battery
General	repair	p r o c e d u r e s
T o o l s a n d w o r k i n g facilities
M O T test c h e c k s
Fault finding
Glossary of technical			t e r m s

Index

Contents

Page 2 A » 1

Page 2 B » 1

P a g e	2 0 1
Page 2 D » 1
Page	2E»1
Page	3«1
Page	4A» 1
P a g e	4 B « 1
Page	4 0 1
Page	5A» 1
Page 5 B » 1
Page	6»1
Page	7A» 1
P a g e	7 B » 1
Page	8 * 1
Page	9»1
Page	1 0 * 1
P a g e 11»1
Page	12»1
P a g e	1 2 * 2 3
Page	REF»1

P a g e R E F » 2

Page R E F » 3

P a g e R E F » 4

Page R E F » 5

Page R E F » 6

Page	REF»7
P a g e	R E F » 8

P a g e R E F » 1 0

P a g e R E F » 1 4

Page R E F » 2 4

P a g e R E F » 2 9

o.4 Introduction

The 3-door FIAT Bravo and 5-door Brava models were introduced at the end of 1995, as part of a new range of FIAT models which began with the successful Punto a year earlier. The elegant all-new design won the coveted Car of the Year award in 1996.

The engines are all fuel-injected, in-line, multi-valve four-cylinder units of 1370 cc, 1581 cc or 1747 cc displacement, and all feature a comprehensive engine management system with extensive emission control equipment. In early 1999, the range received a minor facelift, and the 1370 cc 12-valve engine was replaced by the 1242 cc 16-valve engine from the FIAT Punto.

The 3- and 5-door bodyshells are extensively galvanised and particularly rigid, and offer spacious accommodation. The cars have many crash safety measures, such as a driver's airbag, side impact bars, anti-submarine seats, and front seat belt pre-tensioners.

Transmissions are either 5-speed manual, or 4-speed automatic with computer control. The automatic transmission features mode

control selection, allowing the driver to alter the transmission characteristics to suit normal, sport or winter driving requirements.

Braking is by discs at the front, and drums at the rear, with the handbrake acting on the rear drums. Anti-lock braking (ABS) is available as an option. The suspension is conventional, with struts and wishbones at the front, and a torsion beam rear axle. Power-assisted rack and pinion steering is standard on all models.

A high level of standard equipment, and a wide range of optional equipment, is available within the range to suit virtually all tastes. All models have a driver's airbag, tinted glass, high-level brake light and central locking, with several featuring electric windows, electric sunroof and alloy wheels.

Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, the FIAT Bravo and Brava will provide reliable and economical family motoring. The engine compartment is relatively spacious, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

FIAT Bravo 1.4 SX

The Fiat Bravo/Brava Team

H a y n e s m a n u a l s are p r o d u c e d by d e d i c a t e d a n d enthusiastic p e o p l e w o r k i n g in c l o s e c o - o p e r a t i o n . T h e

t e a m r e s p o n s i b l e for t h e creation	of this b o o k i n c l u d e d :
A u t h o r s	A K L e g g L A E M I M I
	S p e n c e r D r a y t o n
	R M J e x
P a g e M a k e - u p	S t e v e C h u r c h i l l
	J a m e s R o b e r t s o n
W o r k s h o p m a n a g e r	P a u l B u c k l a n d
P h o t o S c a n s	J o h n M a r t i n
C o v e r i l l u s t r a t i o n & L i n e A r t	R o g e r H e a l i n g
W i r i n g d i a g r a m s	S t e v e T a n s w e l l

W e h o p e t h e b o o k w i l l h e l p y o u t o g e t t h e m a x i m u m e n j o y m e n t f r o m y o u r c a r . B y c a r r y i n g o u t r o u t i n e

m a i n t e n a n c e a s d e s c r i b e d y o u w i l l e n s u r e y o u r c a r ' s r e l i a b i l i t y a n d p r e s e r v e its r e s a l e v a l u e .

FIAT Brava 1.8 ELX

Your FIAT Bravo/Brava manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate - if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically.

References to the 'left' or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions f r o m the information given.

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

•Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

•Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle

always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on

ramps.

Never

venture	=
under	a car which
is only	supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

•Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

•Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

•Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks

(electrically or by use of tools).

•Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

•Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

•Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the ignition system with

the engine running or the ignition switched on

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

•Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the

engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

•Fuel vapour is also

poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

•Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

•Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

•Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Remember...

DO

•Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

•Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

•Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

•Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

•Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system.

•Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

Safety first! 0.5

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

•Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

•The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning:	Never	expose	the		hands,
face or any other		part	of	the	body
to injector	spray; the fuel			can
penetrateA the skin	with potentially			fatal

results.

DON'T

•Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

•Don't rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

•Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

•Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

•Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

o.6 Roadside repairs

T h e f o l l o w i n g p a g e s a r e i n t e n d e d t o h e l p in d e a l i n g w i t h c o m m o n r o a d s i d e e m e r g e n c i e s a n d b r e a k d o w n s . Y o u will find m o r e d e t a i l e d f a u l t f i n d i n g i n f o r m a t i o n at t h e b a c k of t h e m a n u a l , a n d repair information in the m a i n c h a p t e r s .

If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn

If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal

•	If it's a m o d e l w i t h a u t o m a t i c t r a n s m i s s i o n , m a k e		sure t h e
	selector is in P or N.
•	O p e n t h e	b o n n e t a n d m a k e sure t h a t t h e battery	terminals
	are clean	a n d tight.

•S w i t c h o n the headlights a n d try to start t h e engine . If the headlights g o very d i m w h e n y o u ' r e trying t o start, t h e

battery is p r o b a b l y flat. Get o u t	of t r o u b l e by j u m p starting
(see next page) using a friend's	car.

•	Is t h e r e fuel in the t a n k ?
•	Is t h e r e	m o i s t u r e o n electrical c o m p o n e n t s under				t h e
	b o n n e t ?	S w i t c h	off t h e ignition, t h e n w i p e off any			o b v i o u s
	d a m p n e s s w i t h		a d r y c l o t h . S p r a y		a water - repellent aerosol
	p r o d u c t	( W D - 4 0	or equivalent)	o n	ignition a n d fuel	s y s t e m
	electrical c o n n e c t o r s like t h o s e			s h o w n in t h e p h o t o s .
	Pay special attention t o t h e ignition coil wiring c o n n e c t o r
	a n d HT	leads .

A Check that the HT leads are securely connected to the spark plugs and ignition coil pack, where applicable.

7.8	litre models do not have conventional
HT	leads.

Check that the LT wiring plug is securely
B attached to the ignition coil.
On some	models, the		HT	leads	and
ignition coil	are	concealed	under a		plastic
cover, secured		by a number of		screws.

Check the airflow meter and/or inlet air temperature sensor wiring connector for security.

	\	Hi
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the	ignition switched off) and spray them	Check the security and condition of the
with a water dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect	a problem due to damp	battery terminals.

Jump

starting

will

get

you

out

of

trouble,

but you

must

correct

whatever

made

the battery

go

flat in the first place. There are

T

three

possibilities:

The

battery

has

been

drained

by

repeated

attempts

to

start,

or

by

leaving

the

lights on.

The

charging

system

is not

working

2 properly

(alternator

drivebelt

slack

or

broken,

alternator

wiring

fault

or

alternator

itself

faulty).

3

The

battery

itself

is

at

fault

(electrolyte

low,

or

battery

worn

out).

Roadside repairs 0.7

Jump starting

	W h e n j u m p - s t a r t i n g a car			using a		•	M a k e	sure that t h e b o o s t e r battery	is
	b o o s t e r battery, o b s e r v e t h e f o l l o w i n g
							t h e s a m e v o l t a g e as t h e d i s c h a r g e d
	p r e c a u t i o n s :
							o n e in the vehicle .
	•	Before	c o n n e c t i n g t h e	b o o s t e r
		battery,	m a k e sure that		the ignition is		If t h e	battery is b e i n g j u m p - s t a r t e d
		s w i t c h e d off.					f r o m t h e battery in a n o t h e r vehicle,
							t h e t w o vehicles M U S T N O T T O U C H
	•	Ensure that all electrical			e q u i p m e n t		e a c h	other .
		(lights, heater, w i p e r s ,		etc) is
		s w i t c h e d off.
							M a k e	sure t h a t t h e t r a n s m i s s i o n is	in
	•	T a k e note of any special p r e c a u t i o n s					neutral (or PARK, in t h e c a s e of
		printed o n t h e battery		case .			a u t o m a t i c transmission) .

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

o.8 Roadside repairs

Wheel changing

Warning: Do

not

change

a wheel

in a situation

where you

risk

being

hit

by another

vehicle.

On busy

roads,

try

to stop in a lay-by

A or a gateway.

Be

wary

of passing

traffic while

changing

the

wheel

- it

is easy to

become

distracted

by the

job

in hand.

Preparation

•When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so.

•Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic.

•Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

•If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence.

•Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission).

•Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this.

•If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

H	The spare wheel	and tools are stored in
I	the luggage compartment under the
	carpet. Unscrew	the handle and lift out

the tool tray, then take out the jack and spare wheel.

4 Turn the handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.

Note: Some models are supplied with a special lightweight 'space-saver' spare wheel, the tyre being narrower than standard. The space-saver spare wheel is intended only for temporary use, and must be replaced with a standard wheel as soon as possible. Drive with particular care with this wheel fitted, especially through corners and when braking - FIAT recommend a maximum speed of 50 mph (80 kmlh) when the special spare wheel is in use. The temporary spare also has a maximum recommended life of 1800 miles.

2 Remove the wheel trim (where fitted) by prising up the edges and pulling it straight off. Slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn, using the wheelbrace. If the bolts are

too tight, DON'T stand on the wheelbrace to undo them - call for assistance.

5 Fit the spare wheel, noting that there are two locating pegs on the wheel hub, which must fit through the holes in the spare wheel. Fit and screw in the bolts.

Finally...

• Remove the wheel chocks.

3 The jack head engages with the bottom lip on the side sills. If a front wheel is being changed, position the jack head approximately 30 cm back from the front wheel arch. If a rear wheel is being changed, the jack head should be 20 cm forward of the rear wheel arch. Don't jack the vehicle at any

other point of the sill.

6 Lightly tighten the bolts with the wheelbrace, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Securely tighten the wheel bolts.

Note that the wheel trim will not fit the spare wheel. The wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity.

• Stow the punctured wheel and tools in the correct locations in the car.

•Check the tyre pressure on the tyre just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the next garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. Particularly in the case of the narrow space-saver spare wheel, this pressure is much higher than for a normal tyre.

•Have the punctured wheel repaired as soon as possible, or another puncture will leave you stranded.

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning:		Most	automotive	oils
and	fluids	are	poisonous.	Wash
them	off	skin,	and change	out
A of contaminated			clothing,
without		delay.

Roadside repairs 0.9

Identifying leaks

	The		smell			of	a	fluid		leaking
	from		the		car		may		provide		a
	clue		to	what's			leaking.			Some
	fluids		are		distinctively					coloured.
It may	help	to clean				the		car		carefully
and to	park	it	over			some		clean		paper
overnight		as	an		aid		to	locating			the
source	of the		leak.
Remember		that		some			leaks		may		only
occur	while	the		engine			is	running.

Sump oil

Oil from filter

Gearbox oil

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug..

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline	A leak occurring at a wheel is almost	Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
deposit like this.	certainly brake fluid.	connectors on the steering rack.

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points:

•Use a proper tow - rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window.

•Always turn the ignition key to the 'on' position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work.

•The screw-in towing eye is provided with the wheel changing tools in the boot. The towing eye is screwed into the threaded hole in the front bumper, below the right-hand headlight, or into the right-hand side of the rear bumper after prising out the trim cover.

•Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission.

•Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running.

•On models with power steering, greater- than-usual steering effort will also be required.

•The driver of the car being towed must

Towing

keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

•Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off.

•Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

•On models with automatic transmission, the car must not be towed (with the front wheels on the ground) further than 12 miles (20 km), or faster than 18 mph (30 km/h). If in doubt, do not tow with the driven wheels on the ground, or transmission damage may result.

o«io Weekly checks

Introduction

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

•Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

•Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

Underbonnet check points

•If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

•If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

^	1.2 litre		engine
A	Engine	oil level	dipstick
B	Engine	oil filler	cap
C	Coolant	expansion tank

DBrake and clutch fluid reservoir

E	Power	steering	fluid	reservoir
F	Screen	washer	fluid	reservoir
G	Battery

4	1.4 litre		engine
A	Engine	oil level	dipstick
B	Engine	oil filler	cap
C	Coolant	expansion tank

DBrake and clutch fluid reservoir

E	Power	steering	fluid	reservoir
F	Screen	washer	fluid	reservoir
Q	Battery

Weekly checks o . n

^	1.6	litre	engine
A	Engine	oil level	dipstick
B	Engine	oil filler	cap
C	Coolant	expansion tank

DBrake and clutch fluid reservoir

E Power steering fluid reservoir

FScreen washer fluid reservoir

GBattery

^	1.8	litre	engine
A	Engine	oil level	dipstick
B	Engine	oil filler	cap
C	Coolant	expansion tank

DBrake and clutch fluid reservoir

E	Power	steering	fluid	reservoir
F	Screen	washer	fluid	reservoir
G	Battery

o-i2 Weekly checks

Engine oil level

Before you start

•	Make sure that your car is on level ground.
•	Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

If	the		oil	is		checked
immediately			after		driving		the
vehicle,		some		of	the	oil	will
remain		in	the	upper		engine
components,	resulting		in	an	inaccurate

reading on the dipstick!

The correct oil

Modern		engines	place	great	demands		on their
oil. It	is	very important		that	the	correct	oil	for
your	car	is used	(See Lubricants			and fluids		on
page	0'17).

Car Care

•If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil.

•Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the le\/el is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Coolant level

Warning:		DO		NOT	attempt			to
remove		the		expansion			tank
A pressure		cap	when		the	engine		is
hot,	as there		is	a very		great	risk
of scalding.			Do not		leave		open
containers		of	coolant		about,		as	it
is	poisonous.

•H	The coolant expansion tank is located in
I	one of two places (see Underbonnet	check
	points on pages O 1 0 and 0*11).	The

coolant level can vary with engine temperature. When cold, it should be between the MAX and MIN marks. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the MAX mark.

I The dipstick top is brightly coloured for easy identification, and is situated at the front of the engine compartment (see

Underbonnet check points on pages 0 1 0 and 0 1 1 ) . Withdraw the dipstick

MAX MIN

'irmm^f

3 Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be in the hatched area between the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the

upper mark.

Car Care

• With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

2 If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is c o l d . Slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and

remove it.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

4 Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick

often. Don't overfill (see 'Car Care' left).

• It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don't top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank until the coolant level is halfway between the level marks. Refit the cap and tighten it securely.

Weekly checks 0.13

Brake (and clutch*) fluid level

*0n models

A

with

a hydraulically-operated

clutch, this information

is also

applicable

to

the

clutch

fluid

level.

Warning:

•

Make

sure

that

your car is

Safety First!

•

Brake

fluid

can

harm

your

on level

ground.

eyes

and

damage

painted

•

If the reservoir requires repeated topping-

The

fluid

level

in

the

surfaces,

so

use

extreme

reservoir

will

drop

slightly

as

up this is an indication of a fluid leak

caution

when

handling

and

pouring

it.

the brake pads wear down, but the

fluid

somewhere in the system, which should

be

level

must

never

be

allowed

to

drop

investigated immediately.

•

Do

not

use

fluid

that

has

below

the MIN mark.

•

If a leak is suspected, the car should not

be

been

standing

open

for

some

driven until the braking system has

been

time,

as

it

absorbs

moisture

checked. Never take any risks where

brakes

from

the

air,

which can cause a

are concerned.

dangerous

loss

of

braking

effectiveness.

	The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on	If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean								Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it
	the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept	the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt							3 onto		the surrounding components. Use
	between the marks at all times	entering the hydraulic system. Unscrew the								only	the specified fluid; mixing different
		reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position,							types can cause damage to the system. After
		holding the wiring connector plug and taking							topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the
		care not to damage the level sender float. Inspect							cap and wipe off any spilt fluid. Reconnect the
		the reservoir; if the fluid is dirty,					the hydraulic		fluid level wiring connector.
		system should be bled through (see Chapter 1).
Power steering fluid level									Safety First!
Before you start:		R E H f l S l	F o r	t n	e	check	to	be
•	Park the vehicle on level ground.		accurate,			the steering		must	•	The need for frequent topping-up indicates
•	Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.	| H l i \ I T |	not	be		turned	once	the	a	leak,	which should be investigated
			engine		has been		stopped.		immediately.
•	The engine should be turned off.

•H	On most models, the reservoir is mounted		If topping - up is necessary, use the
I	at the rear of the engine, next to the brake		specified type of fluid - do not overfill the
	fluid reservoir; 1.2 litre models have the		reservoir. When the level is correct,
reservoir by		the engine (see Underbonnet	securely refit the cap.
check points		on page O10) . The fluid level can
be viewed through the reservoir body, and
should be between the MIN and MAX marks; if
not, a dipstick is incorporated in the filler cap.

3 Start the engine and wait for the fluid level in the reservoir to stabilise before proceeding. With the engine running, turn the steering wheel fully left and right several

times, returning to the straight-ahead position. Wait for the level to stabilise, then check the fluid level once more, and top-up if necessary. Switch off the engine on completion.

o.i4 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once!

Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.

Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

-J Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear, when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 m m . The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

2 Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on page 0*17.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.

Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you	sometimes		have	to	inflate your		car's
tyres	to	the higher	pressures			specified	for
maximum		load or sustained			high	speed,	don't
forget	to	reduce	the	pressures		to normal
afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in Safety first! at the start of this manual.

•Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted.

•Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A.

•On batteries which are not of the maintenance-free type, periodically check the

electrolyte level in the battery - see Chapter 1.

• If the battery is flat, and you	need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside	repairs.

Battery	corrosion		can	be	kept	to a
minimum	by	applying		a	layer	of
petroleum	jelly	to	the	clamps		and
terminals	after	they	are	reconnected.

The battery is located at the front of the engine compartment on the left-hand side. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a

cracked case or cover

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores

sell a tool for cleaning the battery p o s t . . .

Bulbs and fuses

• Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

H If a single indicator light, stop-light or

Iheadlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be

replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop-lights have failed, it is possible that the stop-light switch is faulty (see Chapter 9).

• Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

2 If more than one indicator light or headlight has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The main fuses are located in the fusebox situated to the right of the steering wheel. Additional fuses are located behind the glovebox, with several enginerelated fuses on the engine compartment

bulkhead or next to the battery.

Weekly checks 0-15

Lift off the terminal covers, and check the tightness of battery clamps to ensure good electrical connections. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

as well as the battery cable clamps

If you	need	to check		your
brake	lights	and	indicators

^unaided, back up to a wall or garage door and operate the

lights.	The reflected	light should show if
they	are working	properly.

3 To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out using the plastic tweezers provided. Fit a new fuse of the same rating (see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important

that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

o.i6 Weekly checks

Washer fluid level

•The windscreen washer reservoir also supplies the tailgate washer jet. On models so equipped, the same reservoir also serves the headlight washers.

•Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don't top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will freeze during cold weather.

On	no account use		coolant	antifreeze	in
the	washer	system	- this could	discolour	or
damage		paintwork.

Wiper blades

Caution:	Take	care	during	the fitting	of
new blades that the			wiper	arms do	not
accidentally		strike	the windscreen		or
tailgate	glass.

1	Check	the	condition of the wiper blades;
	if they	are	cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

•H On most models, the washer fluid

Ireservoir filler is located at the rear righthand side of the engine compartment;

1.4 litre models have the reservoir on the lefthand side. Release the cap and observe the level in the reservoir by looking down the filler neck. Models with headlight washers have a dipstick which can be used to verify the level.

N o t e: Fitting		details for		wiper blades		vary
according	to	model,		and	according	to
whether	genuine		FIAT	wiper	blades	have
been fitted.		Use	the	procedures		and
illustrations shown			as a guide		for your car.

Q To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm

fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab with your fingers and slide the

blade out of the arm's hooked end.

2 To top-up the level, pull the filter inside the filler neck upwards until it clicks - this can now be used as a funnel. When

topping - up the reservoir, a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle.

O Don't forget to check the rear wiper blade

Oas well. To remove the blade, press in the catch at the base of the arm, and slide

the blade and upper section of the arm out.

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures 0.17

Lubricants and fluids

E n g i n e	S y n t h e t i c - b a s e d m u l t i g r a d e				engine	oil, viscosity SAE 1 0 W / 4 0 ,
	t o A C E A A 3 , API SJ or better
	(Duckhams	QXR Premium		Petrol Engine			Oil)
C o o l i n g s y s t e m	Ethylene g l y c o l - b a s e d antifreeze,
	(Duckhams	Antifreeze	and Summer			Coolant)
M a n u a l t r a n s m i s s i o n	Gear oil, viscosity S A E 7 5 W / 8 0 , to API						G L 5
	(Duckhams	Hypoid	Gear	Oil	75W-80W		GL-5)
A u t o m a t i c t r a n s m i s s i o n	D e x r o n II t y p e a u t o m a t i c			t r a n s m i s s i o n			fluid
	(Duckhams	ATF Autotrans		III)
B r a k i n g s y s t e m	B r a k e a n d	c l u t c h fluid t o		D O T 4
	(Duckhams	Universal	Brake		& Clutch	Fluid)
P o w e r s t e e r i n g	D e x r o n t y p e A T F
	(Duckhams	ATF Autotrans		III)

Choosing your engine oil

Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to improve fuel economy. By introducing a simplified and improved range of engine oils, Duckhams has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you to choose the right oil for your engine.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating

friction

Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.

• Cooling

hot-spots

Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000° C. The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.

• Cleaning the engine

internally

Good quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out at oil change.

OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE

To handle and dispose of used engine oil safely, always:

	•	Avoid			skin	contact
	with	used			engine			oil.
	Repeated			or		prolonged
	contact		can		be	harmful.
	•	Dispose			of	used		oil
	and	empty			packs		in	a
	responsible				manner		in	an
	authorised				disposal		site.
0800 66 33 66	Call	0800		663366		to	find
	t n e	o n e	n e	a r	e s t	t o	y°u-
	Never		tip	oil	down		drains
	or onto		the		ground.

DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS

For the driver who demands a premium quality oil for complete reassurance, we recommend synthetic formula D u c k h a m s

QXR Premium Engine Oils.

For the driver who requires a straightforward quality engine oil, we recommend

Duckhams Hypergrade Engine Oils.

For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.

Tyre pressures (cold)

Note: Pressures apply		only to original-equipment	tyres, and may vary if other	makes or type is fitted; check		with the tyre manufacturer or supplier
for correct	pressures if	necessary.
			Front			Rear
N o r m a l load:
E x c e p t	185/55 R15 a n d 1 9 5 / 5 0 R15 tyres		2.2 bar (32 psi)			2.2 bar (32			psi)
185/55 R15 a n d 1 9 5 / 5 0 R15 tyres			2.2 bar (32		psi)	2.3	bar (33 psi)
Full load			2.3	bar (33 psi)		2.5	bar	(36 psi)
S p a r e w h e e l :
N o r m a l	(full-width)	w h e e l	2.8	bar (41	psi)	2.8	bar	(41	psi)
S p a c e	saver (narrow) w h e e l		4.2	bar (61	psi)	4.2	bar (61		psi)

• M

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance & servicing

Contents

Air filter renewal	19
Automatic transmission fluid level check	5
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal	21
Auxiliary drivebelt tension check	7
Battery electrolyte level check	6
Brake fluid renewal	26
Braking system pipes and hoses check	11
Clutch cable adjustment	22
Coolant renewal	31
Engine management system fault code check	25
Engine oil and filter renewal	3
Evaporative emission control system check	29
Exhaust emissions check	24
Exhaust system check	12
Front brake pad check	4
Fuel filter renewal	20

Handbrake adjustment	23
Hinge and lock lubrication	16
Hose and fluid leak check	9
Introduction	1
Lights and horn operation check	15
Manual transmission oil level check	27
Pollen filter renewal	8
Rear brake shoe check	28
Regular maintenance	2
Road test	17
Spark plug renewal	18
Steering and suspension check	13
Timing belt renewal	30
Transmission and driveshaft gaiter check	10
Underbody protection check	14

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for	| k	Fairly easy, suitable	§ x	Fairly difficult,	^	Difficult, suitable for	^	Very difficult,	^
novice with little		for beginner with	§ ^	suitable for competent	0 ^	experienced DIY	>J^	suitable for expert DIY	^
expenence	^	some experience	^	DIY mechanic	^	mechanic		or professional	^

1-2 Servicing specifications

Lubricants and fluids Capacities

Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0*17

Engine oil (including filter):
1.2	litre engine			2.8	litres
1.4	litre engine			4.1	litres
1.6	litre engine			3.8	litres
1.8	litre engine			4.3	litres
Cooling system (approximate):
1.2	and	1.4	litre engines	6.0	litres
1.6	and	1.8	litre engines	7.0	litres
Transmission (approximate):
Manual transmission:
1.2 and 1.4 litre engine models				1.65 litres
1.6 and 1.8 litre engine models				2.0	litres
Automatic transmission (fluid change)				4.3 litres
Fuel tank (approximate):
Except		1.8 litre models		50 litres
1.8	litre models			60	litres
Washer reservoir:
Models with headlight washers				6.4	litres
Models without headlight washers				5.0	litres

Engine

Oil filter:
1.2,1.4 and 1.6 litre engines	Champion F107*
1.8 litre engine:
Up to March 1996	Champion F107*
April 1996 onwards	Champion F133*
*Note: This is the latest information	available; if in any doubt, contact Champion on 01274 848283.

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture:
4 0 %	antifreeze	Protection down to -25°C
5 0 %	antifreeze	Protection down to -35°C
Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest		recommendations.

Fuel system

Air filter element:
Except 1.2 litre engine	Champion U564*
1.2 litre engine	Champion type not available*
Fuel filter	Champion L225*
*Note: This is the latest information	available; if in any doubt, contact Champion on 01274 848283.

Ignition system

Ignition timing				Refer to Chapter 5B
Spark plugs:
Except 1.2 litre engine				Champion RC8BYC or RC7YC*
1.2 litre engine				Champion RA4HCX or RA4HC*
Electrode gap**:
Champion RC8BYC				Not adjustable
Champion RA4HCX				0.8 mm (0.032 in)
Champion RC7YC or RA4HC				0.7 mm (0.028 in)
*Note: This is the latest information available;			if in any doubt, contact	Champion	on 01274	848283.
"The	spark plug electrode gap is as quoted		by Champion for their	recommended	plugs.	If spark plugs of any other type are to be used, refer to
their	manufacturer's	specifications.

Clutch

Clutch pedal stroke (see Section 22):
1.2	and	1.4	litre models (where applicable)	155	± 1 0	mm
1.6	and	1.8	litre models	170	± 1 0	m m

Brakes

Brake pad/shoe friction material minimum thickness

1.5 mm

Torque wrench settings	Nm	i b f f t
Manual transmission drain plug	46	34
Manual transmission filler/level plug	46	34
Roadwheel bolts	86	63

		Servicing specifications 1.3
Torque wrench settings (continued)	Nm	Ibf ft
Spark plugs:	25	18
All except 1.6 litre engine
1.6 litre engine	27	20
Sump drain plug:	10	7
	25	"18
	50	37
	20	15

Maintenance schedule

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the minimum intervals recommended for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your

vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, since it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

•Refer to Weekly checks

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months

In addition to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the following:

•Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)

•Check the front brake pad thickness (Section 4)

•Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 5)

•Check battery electrolyte level - where applicable (Section 6)

•Check the tension of the auxiliary drivebelt(s)

(Section 7)

•Renew the pollen filter element (Section 8)

•Check all underbonnet/underbody components and hoses for fluid leaks (Section 9)

•Check the transmission and driveshaft gaiters for leaks and damage (Section 10)

•Check the brake pipes and hoses for leaks and damage (Section 11)

•Check the condition of the exhaust system and its mountings (Section 12)

•Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 13)

•Check underbody protection for damage (Section 14)

•Check operation of all lights and horn (Section 15)

•Lubricate all hinges, locks and door check straps

(Section 16)

•Carry out a road test (Section 17)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years

In addition to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the following:

•Renew the spark plugs (Section 18)

•Renew the air filter element (Section 19)

•Renew the fuel filter, where applicable (Section 20)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years (continued)

•Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt(s), and renew if necessary (Section 21)

i"l Check clutch cable adjustment, where applicable (Section 22)

U Check handbrake adjustment (Section 23) i i Check exhaust gas emissions (Section 24)

1 i Check engine management system for fault codes

(Section 25)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 2 years

In addition to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the following:

iI Renew the brake fluid (Section 26)

•Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 27)

•Check the rear brake shoe lining thickness (Section 28)

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km) or 4 years

In addition to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the following:

ii Check the evaporative emissions control system

(Section 29)

Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

•Renew the timing belt (Section 30)

Note: It

is strongly

recommended

that

the

interval

is

halved

to

36

000

miles (60

000

km),

particularly

on

vehicles

which

are

subjected

to intensive

use,

ie. mainly

short

journeys

or

a lot of

stop-

start driving. The actual belt

renewal

interval is

therefore

very

much

up

to the individual

owner,

but bear in

mind

that

severe

engine

damage

will result

if the

belt

breaks.

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

Li Renew the coolant (Section 31)

1.4 Maintenance - component locations

Underbonnet view of 1.2 litre model

	Sra/ce a n d c/ufch				ffu/d
	reservoir
	Fuse and relay box
	Engine		top	cover	(remove
	for	access		to coils	and
	spark		plugs)
	Engine			management
	system		ECU
	Auxiliary			fusebox
	Air	inlet	duct
	Air	cleaner
8	Battery
	Cooling		system		expansion
	tank
10	Engine		oil	dipstick
11	Oil	filler	cap
12	Power		steering		reservoir
13	Washer			reservoir

Underbonnet view of 1.4 litre model

	Air	cleaner
	Brake		and		clutch		fluid
	reservoir
	Fuse	and			relay	box
	Throttle			body		airbox
	Power		steering			reservoir
	Engine				management
	system			ECU
	Auxiliary				fusebox
8	Washer				reservoir
9	Battery
10	Cooling			system			expansion
	tank
11	Radiator			top		hose
12	Oil filler			cap
13	Oil	filter
14	Engine			oil	dipstick
15	Crankcase				breather		hose
16	Warm-air				inlet	duct
17	Timing			belt cover

Maintenance - component locations 1.5

Underbonnet view of 1.6 litre model

1	Washer			reservoir
2	Inlet manifold (upper section)
3	Brake	and		clutch	fluid
	reservoir
4	Fuse	and		relay	box
5	Inlet	air	resonator		box
6	Power		steering		reservoir
7	Air inlet			duct
8	Auxiliary			fusebox
9	Air	cleaner

10Battery

11Engine management

	system		ECU
12	Accelerator			cable
13	Cooling		system		expansion
	tank
14	Ignition		coil
15	Inlet	manifold		(lower
	section)
16	Oil	filler	cap
17	Engine		oil	dipstick
18	No	1 spark		plug	HTIead
19	Timing		belt	cover

Underbonnet view of 1.8 litre model

1	Washer	reservoir
2	Cooling	system	expansion
	tank

3Fuel hoses, fuel rail and injectors

4Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

5	Inlet	manifold
6	Power		steering		reservoir
7	Idle	speed		control	valve
8	Anti-lock		braking		system
	(ABS)		modulator
9	Airflow		meter
10	Auxiliary			fusebox
11	Air	inlet	duct
12	Air	cleaner
13	Battery
14	Engine		top	cover	(remove
	for	access		to coils	and
	spark		plugs)
15	Oil	filler	cap
16	Engine		oil	dipstick
17	Timing		belt	cover

1.6 Maintenance - component locations

Front underside view of 1.6 litre model

	Horn	unit
	Oil filter
	Radiator		cooling		fan
4	Starter		motor
	Radiator		bottom		hose
	Front	brake		caliper
	Driveshaft			CV joint		gaiter
	Track	rod		end
	Manual		transmission			drain
	plug
10	Engine		oil	drain	plug
11	Right-hand			driveshaft
12	Exhaust			downpipe
13	Oxygen		sensor
14	Subframe
15	Suspension			arm

Rear underside view of 1.6 litre model

1	Brake		pipe/hose
	connection
2	Fuel	tank
3	Handbrake			cables
4	Fuel	tank	retaining		straps
5	Rear	suspension			arm
6	Rear	shock		absorber
	mounting
7	Rear	coil	spring
8	Exhaust		rear	silencer
9	Exhaust		heat	shield
10	Brake	pressure
	proportioning			valve

1 Introduction

General information

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme

Maintenance procedures w

is to prepare yourself before the actual work	ance of the engine, and may prove a waste of
begins. Read through all the Sections relevant	time and money, unless extensive overhaul
to the work to be carried out, then make a list	work is carried out first.
and gather all the parts and tools required. If a	4 The following series of operations are those
problem is encountered, seek advice from a	most often required to improve the perform-
parts specialist, or a dealer service department.	ance of a generally poor-running engine:

2

Regular maintenance

Primary

operations

a)

Clean,

inspect

and

test the battery

(See

Weekly

checks

and

Section

6,

where

applicable).

b)

Check

all the engine-related

fluids

(See

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

Weekly

checks).

routine maintenance schedule is followed

c)

Check

the

condition

and tension

of

the

closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid

auxiliary

drivebelt

(Sections

7 and 21).

levels and high-wear items, as suggested

d) Renew

the spark

plugs (Section

18).

throughout this manual, the engine will be

e)

Check

the

condition

of the air filter, and

kept in relatively good running condition, and

renew

if necessary

(Section

19).

the need for additional work will be minimised.

f)

Check

the

fuel

filter,

where

applicable

2

It is possible that there will be times when

(Section

20).

the engine is running poorly due to the lack of

g)

Check

the

condition

of all hoses,

and

regular maintenance. This is even more likely

check

for fluid

leaks

(Section 9).

if a used vehicle, which has not received

h)

Check

the exhaust

gas emissions

(Sec-

regular and frequent maintenance checks, is

tion 24).

purchased. In such cases, additional work

5 If the above

operations do

not

prove

fully

may need to be carried out, outside of the

effective,

carry

out

the following

secondary

regular maintenance intervals.

operations:

3

If engine wear is suspected, a compression

Secondary

operations

test (refer to the relevant part of Chapter 2) will

All items listed under Primary operations, plus

provide valuable information regarding the

overall performance of the main internal

the following:

components. Such a test can be used as a

a)

Check

the charging

system

(see Chapter

5A,

basis to decide on the extent of the work to

Section

4).

be carried out. If, for example, a compression

b)

Check

the ignition

system (see Chapter

5B).

test indicates serious internal engine wear,

c)

Check

the fuel

system (see relevant

Part

conventional maintenance as described in this

of Chapter

4).

Chapter will not greatly improve the perform-

d)

Renew

the

ignition

HT leads, if

applicable.

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km)

3 Engine oil and filter renewal I%

1Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

2The oil change interval given in this Manual is the same as quoted by the manufacturer, but owners of older vehicles (or those covering a small annual mileage) may feel justified in changing the oil and filter more frequently, perhaps every 6000 miles, or every

6months. The quality of engine oil used is a significant factor in this - the 12 000-mile interval only applies if a high-quality synthetic-based oil is used.

3Before starting this procedure, gather all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to

touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.

4Remove the oil filler cap (see illustration), and take out the dipstick.

5Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift,

driven onto ramps, or jacked up and

3.4Removing the oil filler cap on a

1.6litre model

supported on axle stands (see Jacking		and
vehicle support).	Whichever method	is

chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point.

6 Where applicable, unscrew the fasteners and remove the engine undertray, for access to the drain plug. On 1.8 litre engines, the drain plug can be reached from the back of the engine, and a panel is provided in the undertray, which can be hinged down to get to the filter (see illustration).

3.6 Removing the oil filter access panel on a 1.8 litre model

i.a Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km)

rt'!' •

3.7 On some models, a special socket is required to loosen the sump drain plug

7 Using a special socket where necessary, slacken the drain plug (on the base of the sump) about half a turn (see illustration). Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.

8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle

(see illustration).

9 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug securely.

10Move the container into position under the

011filter, which is located on the front of the cylinder block.

11Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil in the filter into the container.

12Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.

13Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine (see illustration). Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.

14Remove the old oil from under the car, then refit the undertray or access panel (as applicable). Lower the car to the ground.

3.13 Fit and tighten the new oil filter by hand only - do not use any tools

3.8 Draining the engine oil

15 With the car on level ground, fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Lubricants and fluids). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage (see illustration). Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.

16Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MIN mark on the dipstick. Adding around 1.0 litre of oil will now bring the level up to the MAX on the dipstick - do not worry if a little too much goes in, as some of the apparent excess will be taken up in filling the oil filter. Refit the dipstick and the filler cap.

17Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a few seconds' delay before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds up.

18Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

19Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with

reference to General repair procedures	in the
Reference section of this manual.
4 Front brake pad check	^
	1

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, loosen the front roadwheel bolts, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.

2For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9.

3If any pads friction material is worn to the

specified thickness or less, all four pads	must
be renewed as a set.
4 Check the operation of the pad	wear
warning light by disconnecting the wiring	plug

3.11 Removing the oil filter on a 1.8 litre model

adjacent to the brake caliper. With the ignition on, touch the wiring plug to earth, and check that the warning light comes on.

5 Automatic transmission	^
fluid level check	i |
	f|

1Ideally, the fluid level must be checked with the engine/transmission at operating temperature. This can be achieved by checking the level after a journey of at least 10 miles. If the level is checked when cold, follow this up with a level check when the fluid is hot.

2Park the car on level ground, and apply the handbrake very firmly. As an added precaution, chock the front and rear wheels, so that the car cannot move.

3With the engine idling, move the selector lever gently from position P to position 1, and back to P.

4The fluid level dipstick is located on the front of the transmission. Before removing the dipstick, thoroughly clean the area around it - no dirt or debris must be allowed to enter the transmission.

5Extract the dipstick, and wipe it clean using a clean piece of rag or tissue. Re-insert the dipstick completely, then pull it out once more. The fluid level should be between the reference marks on the side of the dipstick marked HOT (if the level is checked when cold, use the markings on the COLD side of the dipstick).

6If topping-up is required, this is done via the dipstick tube. It is most important that no dirt

3.15 Filling the engine with oil

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) 1.9

4 On batteries where the level can be checked but not topped-up, if the level is low, consult a dealer or automotive electrical specialist as to the best course of action (likely to be fitting a replacement battery).

7Auxiliary drivebelt tension check

5 Each of the drivebelts is checked and adjusted in much the same way. To check the power steering pump drivebelt, remove the bolt securing the belt upper cover, and remove the cover. To access the air conditioning compressor drivebelt, refer to paragraphs 16 to 18.

6 Press on the belt at the centre-point between the two pulleys, and the drivebelt should deflect by approximately 5 mm.

A - -A

6.3 Topping - up the battery electrolyte

or debris enters the transmission as this is done - use a clean funnel (preferably with a filter) and fresh fluid from a clean container.

7Pour the fresh fluid a little at a time down the dipstick tube, checking the level frequently.

8When the level is correct, refit the dipstick and switch off the engine.

Battery electrolyte level check

Warning:

The electrolyte

inside

a

battery

is

diluted

acid

- it

is

a

A good

idea

to

wear

suitable

rubber

gloves. When topping-up,

don't

overfill

the

cells

so that

the

electrolyte

overflows.

In

the event

of

any

spillage,

rinse

the

electrolyte

off

without

delay.

Refit

the

cell

covers

and

rinse

the

battery

with

copious

quantities

of

clean

water.

Don't

attempt

to

siphon

out

any

excess

electrolyte.

Note: On		models	with	1.4	and	1.8	litre
engines,	an	automatic	belt	tensioner		is used,
and regular		tension	checks	are	not	required.
Check	the	belt condition		at	the	specified
intervals,	however, as described				in Section		21.

1 The only belt tension specifications quoted by FIAT are for use with their dedicated belt tensioning equipment, and are not of great practical help. The advice given below should be treated as a rough guide, and should be adequate in most cases. If there is serious concern over belt tension, refer to a FIAT dealer for advice.

2 If a drivebelt is set too tight, it will subject the driven unit to excess load, resulting in premature wear of the unit (and of the belt). If the belt is too slack, it will not transmit drive properly, and the belt will suffer wear due to slippage.

1.2 litre

engine

3Two or three separate belts are used on this engine, depending on whether or not air conditioning is fitted.

4For improved access to the belts, remove the three bolts securing the engine top cover, and lift the cover away.

A l t e r n a t o r d r i v e b e l t

7 If adjustment is required, loosen the nuts and bolts on the two adjuster slots, and the lower mounting through-bolt. Pivot the alternator as necessary using a suitable lever to set the belt tension, then re-tighten all the fasteners (see illustration). Take care when levering the alternator that no damage is caused to the alternator or surrounding components.

8 On models with air conditioning, note that if the air conditioning compressor drivebelt needs adjusting, this will affect the alternator belt tension.

A i r c o n d i t i o n i n g c o m p r e s s o r d r i v e b e l t

9If adjustment is required, loosen the nut and bolt on the adjuster slot, and the lower mounting through-bolt. Pivot the compressor as necessary using a suitable lever to set the belt tension, then re-tighten all the fasteners. Take care when levering the compressor that no damage is caused to the compressor or surrounding components.

10Note that if the air conditioning c o m - pressor drivebelt needs adjusting, this will affect the alternator belt tension.

1Models covered by this Manual are fitted with a 'limited-maintenance' battery as standard equipment (or may have had a 'maintenance-free' one fitted as a replacement). If the battery in your vehicle is marked 'Freedom', 'Maintenance-Free' or similar, no electrolyte level checking is required (the battery is often completely sealed, preventing any topping-up).

2Batteries which do require their electrolyte level to be checked can be recognised by the presence of level markings and removable covers over the six battery cells - the battery casing is also sometimes translucent, so that the electrolyte level can be more easily checked. Some of the batteries fitted by FIAT have level markings, but no means of toppingup!

3Remove the cell covers and either look down inside the battery to see the level web, or check the level using any markings provided on the battery casing. The electrolyte should at least cover the battery plates. If necessary, top up a little at a time with distilled (de-ionised) water until the level in all six cells is correct - don't fill the cells up to the brim (see illustration) . Wipe up any

spillage, then refit the cell covers. 7.7 Loosen the alternator mountings (arrowed) and pivot the alternator to tension the belt

i.io Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km)

7.11 Power steering pump adjuster bolt (arrowed)

7.13 To improve access to the power steering pump drivebelt, remove the belt guard

P o w e r s t e e r i n g p u m p d r i v e b e l t

11 If adjustment is required, loosen the nuts and bolts on the two adjuster slots, and the upper mounting through-bolt. The belt tension is set by now turning the adjuster bolt at the front of the pump mounting bracket (see illustration). When the belt tension is correct, re-tighten all the fasteners and refit the belt upper cover.

1.6 litre engine

12 Two or three separate belts are used on this engine, depending on whether or not air conditioning is fitted.

P o w e r s t e e r i n g p u m p d r i v e b e l t

13 Check the power steering pump drivebelt

7.14a Loosen the pump mounting bolts ,

first - to improve access, unbolt and remove the drivebelt guard (see illustration). Press on the belt at the centre-point between the two pulleys, and the drivebelt should deflect by approximately 5 mm.

14If adjustment is required, loosen the pump mountings, the nut and bolt on the adjuster slot, and the adjuster locknut. Turn the adjuster bolt as required to set the belt tension, then retighten the locknut and the nut and bolt on the adjuster slot (see illustrations).

15With all fixings re-tightened, turn the belt clockwise through one complete revolution, using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Re-check the belt tension, and re-adjust if necessary. Refit the drivebelt guard on completion.

7.14b . . . and the nut and bolt on the adjuster s l o t . . .

A l t e r n a t o r / c o o l a n t p u m p d r i v e b e l t

16With the car parked on a level surface, apply the handbrake and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the right-hand front wheel bolts.

17Raise the front of the vehicle, rest it securely on axle stands and remove the righthand front road wheel.

18Unscrew and release the fasteners securing the wheelarch inner panel, to gain access to the belt run (see illustration).

19 Press firmly on the belt, midway between the crankshaft and water pump pulleys (see illustration). The belt should deflect by approximately 5 mm.

20Refer to the advice given in paragraph 2, noting that the lower drivebelt drives the alternator and coolant pump.

21If adjustment is required, loosen the tensioner upper and lower bolts. Using an Allen key, turn the hex adjuster as required to set the belt tension, then re-tighten the tensioner bolts (see illustration).

22Turn the belt clockwise through one complete revolution, using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Re-check the belt tension, and re-adjust if necessary.

23On completion, refit the wheelarch access panel and the roadwheel, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque.

7.14c . . . then turn the adjuster bolt as	7.18 Removing the wheelarch inner panel	7.19 Checking the drivebelt tension
required before tightening the locknut

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) L H

7.21 Set the belt tension, then tighten the tensioner bolts

A i r c o n d i t i o n i n g c o m p r e s s o r d r i v e b e l t

24Press on the belt at the centre-point between the two pulleys, on the opposite side to the tensioner wheel. The drivebelt should deflect by approximately 5 mm.

25If adjustment is required, loosen the bolt on the adjuster slot, and the pivot bolt at the top of the tensioner arm.

26Loosen the locknut at the front of the arm, and turn the adjuster bolt as required to move the tensioner wheel and set the belt tension.

27On completion, re-tighten all the fasteners. With all fixings re-tightened, turn the belt clockwise through one complete revolution, using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Re-check the belt tension, and readjust if necessary.

8 Pollen filter renewal

Note: A	pollen	filter	is not	fitted	to all models,
and one was not actually				fitted	to	our main
project	vehicle	seen	in the	workshop.
1 The	air entering		the vehicle's			ventilation

system is passed through a very fine pleatedpaper air filter element, which removes particles of pollen, dust and other airborne foreign matter. To ensure its continued effectiveness, this filter's element must be renewed at regular intervals. Failure to renew the element will also result in greatly-reduced airflow into the passenger compartment, reducing demisting and ventilation.

2The pollen filter is located in the air intake at the base of the windscreen. Open the bonnet for access.

3Lift up the separate section of weatherstrip which fits over the top edge of the pollen filter access panel (see illustration).

4Unscrew and remove the two retaining bolts, and pull out the pollen filter access panel (see illustrations).

5Reach in through the access panel, and release the two spring clips which retain the pollen filter. Lower the filter out of its location, noting which way up it fits (see illustration).

6As far as possible, clean the inside of the filter housing, and the inside of the access panel.

8.3 Lift up the weatherstrip which fits over the filter access panel

8.4b . . . and lift out the access panel

7Fit the new filter into position, and secure with the two clips.

8Refit the access panel, secure with the two bolts, and clip the weatherstrip into position.

9 Hose and fluid leak check

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected - what you are really

A leak	in	the	cooling	system	will	usually
show	up	as	white-	or	rust-coloured
deposits		on the areas		adjoining		the leak.

8.4a Undo the t w o screws .

8.5 Remove the pollen filter by releasing the t w o clips (arrowed)

looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual.

2Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips that are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future.

3Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose that is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks (see illustration).

9.3 Check all hoses and their retaining clips

1.12 Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km)

4Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as whiteor rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3.

5Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration.

6With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.

7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.

8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration (see illustration).

9 Check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

	10 Transmission and	I
	driveshaft gaiter check

1Raise the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Alternatively, drive the car onto ramps.

2Inspect around the transmission for any sign of leaks or damage. In particular, check the area around the driveshaft oil/fluid seals for leakage. Slight seepage should not be of great concern, but a serious leak should be investigated further, with reference to Chapter 7A or 7B.

3Check the security and condition of the wiring and wiring plugs on the transmission housing.

4With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands, turn the steering onto full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8).

9.8 Check all fuel and vacuum hoses

5 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

11Braking system pipes and hoses check

1 Starting under the bonnet, examine the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder for leaks. When a brake fluid leak occurs, it is normal to find blistered or wrinkled paint in the area of the leak. Check the metal pipes from the master cylinder for damage, and check the brake pressure regulator, servo/ABS unit and fluid unions for leaks.

2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands, first inspect each front brake caliper. In particular, check the flexible hose leading to the caliper for signs of damage or leaks, especially where the hose enters the metal end fitting. Make sure that the hose is not twisted or kinked, and that it cannot come into contact with any other components when the steering is on full lock.

3 From the caliper, trace the metal brake pipes back along the car. Again, look for leaks from the fluid unions or signs of damage, but additionally check the pipes for signs of corrosion (see illustration). Make sure the

12.2 Check all exhaust joints for signs of corrosion damage

11.3 Check all brake pipes and fittings for corrosion

pipes are securely located by the clips provided on the vehicle underside.

4At the rear of the vehicle, inspect each rear brake and its flexible hose, where applicable. Examine the handbrake cable, tracing it back from each rear brake and checking for frayed cables or other damage. Lubricate the handbrake cable guides, pivots and other moving parts with general-purpose grease.

5If any damage is found, refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

12 Exhaust system check	|

1With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands, so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible.

2Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage (see illustration). Make sure that all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak.

3Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings (see illustration) .

12.3 Check the condition of all exhaust mounting brackets and rubbers