Brother SQ-9000, SQ9050, XR9500PRW Operation Manual

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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

VARIOUS STITCHES

APPENDIX

Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the "IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS", and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the

machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned

in the instruction manual:

•

To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

•

Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord. Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

•

3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has

been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest

authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,

discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.

When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing

machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could

cause injuries.

When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,

otherwise you may injure your back or knees.

4 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

5 Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

6 This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

7 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

8 For repair or adjustment:

• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,

MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

CONTENTS

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .................................................... 5

The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5

Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 6

Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 6

Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ 7

Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... 7

ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................8

Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 8

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................9

Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................ 9

Turning on the machine ................................................................................................................................... 9

Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 10

Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller) ......................................... 10

Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 10

Changing the initial needle position ............................................................................................................... 11

Cancelling the operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) ............................................. 11

THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................12

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 12

Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 15

Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 17

Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 20

REPLACING THE NEEDLE ................................................................................................. 21

Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 21

Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 21

Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 22

Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 22

Sewing with a twin needle .............................................................................................................................. 24

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................25

Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 25

Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 26

2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................27

SEWING ............................................................................................................................ 27

General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 27

Selecting a stitch ............................................................................................................................................ 28

Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 29

Adjusting thread tension ................................................................................................................................. 31

USEFUL SEWING TIPS ......................................................................................................32

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 32

Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 32

Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 32

Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 32

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................................................................................... 33

Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 34

Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 34

Using a free-arm style .................................................................................................................................... 34

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3. VARIOUS STITCHES .....................................................................................35

STITCH SETTINGS .............................................................................................................35

Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 35

Character stitches (for models equipped with character stitches) .................................................................. 41

OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................42

BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................43

Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 43

BLIND HEM STITCHING .................................................................................................. 44

BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................46

Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 49

ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................51

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................ 52

Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 52

Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 52

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................ 53

Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 53

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 54

Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 54

Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 55

Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 56

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................57

Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 57

Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 57

DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................59

Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 60

Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 61

Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 61

Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 62

Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 62

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 63

SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches) ............................64

Selecting characters ....................................................................................................................................... 64

Checking characters ...................................................................................................................................... 66

Deleting characters ........................................................................................................................................ 66

Sewing the character stitches ........................................................................................................................ 67

ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches) .............................68

4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................70

MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................70

Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 70

Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... 70

TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................72

ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................75

Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 75

INDEX ...............................................................................................................................76

1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

The main parts

a Bobbin winder (page 12)

This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.

b Spool pin (pages 12 and 17)

This holds the spool of thread.

c Hole for extra spool pin (page 24)

This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two needles. Not for lubrication.

d Upper tension-control dial (page 31)

This controls the tension of the upper thread.

e Thread guide (pages 12 and 17)

This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine.

f Thread take-up lever (page 18) g Thread cutter (page 30)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

h Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

(pages 7 and 34)

i Operation buttons (page 6)

The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

j Operation panel (page 7)

This is used to select the stitch and specify the various settings.

k Handwheel

Used to manually raise and lower the needle.

l Main power and sewing light switch (page 9)

You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off.

m Jack/socket connector (page 9)

Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/ socket connector.

n Foot controller jack/socket (page 10)

Plug in the foot controller plug.

o Feed dog position lever (pages 49 and 56)

Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.

p Presser foot lever (page 17)

Used to raise and lower the presser foot.

q Foot controller (page 10)

You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to start and stop sewing.

r Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

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Needle and presser foot section

d Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place.

e Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching.

f Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

g Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-

set bobbin)

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.

h Bobbin cover

Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.

i Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing

a Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle

threader) (page 18)

c Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

straight seams.

j Needle bar thread guide

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.

k Needle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

a Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement stitches” (page 30).

■ Buttons provided on some models

c Start/stop button (for models equipped with the

start/stop button)

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 29).

d Needle position button (for models equipped with

the needle position button)

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

e Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the

sewing speed controller)

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.

Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn.

ABC

a LCD (liquid crystal display)

The number of the selected stitch ( to be used ( stitch width (mm) (

b Stitch selection keys

Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).

c Stitch length adjustment key

Press this key to adjust the stitch length.

(For models equipped with the character stitch key) Press this key to check the combined characters. For details, refer to “Checking characters” (page 66).

d Stitch width adjustment key

Press this key to adjust the stitch width.

(For models equipped with the character stitch key) Press this key to add or delete characters. For details, refer to “SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches)” (page 64).

2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the

4) are displayed here.

1), the presser foot

■ Keys and indicators provided on some models

e Utility stitch key

Press this key to sew utility stitches. For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28) .

f Utility stitch indicator

This indicator lights up when the utility stitch key is pressed.

g Character stitch key

Press this key to sew character stitches. For details, refer to “SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches)” (page 64).

h Character stitch indicator

This indicator lights up when the character stitch key is pressed.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to open it.

a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment

Note

● Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the bag inside the compartment. If the accessories are not in a bag, they may fall out, and be lost or damaged.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

ACCESSORIES

The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: HS-3000, SQ-9000, SQ9050, XR9500PRW.

● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

9. 10.

75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle

No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 9 Bobbin (4) SA156 2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 10 Needle set XC8834-021 3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 11 Twin needle 131096-121

4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 12

5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-031 13 Cleaning brush X59476-021 6 Blind stitch foot “R” XC4051-031 14 Screwdriver XC8349-021 7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2137-001 15 Extra spool pin 130920-021

8 Seam ripper X54243-051 16 Foot controller

11. 12.

Part Code

U.S.A. / Canada

90/14 1 needle

Others

13. 14. 15. 16.

No. Part Name

Ball point needle (gold colored)

Part Code

U.S.A. / Canada

XD0360-021

XD0501-021 (EU area)

XC8816-021 (Other areas)

Optional accessories

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Others

XA5539-151

No. Part Name

1 Walking Foot SA140 F033N 4 Quilting guide SA132 F016N 2 Quilting Foot SA129 F005N 5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001

1/4-Inch Quilting

Foot

U.S.A. / Canada

Part Code

Others

SA125 F001N

No. Part Name

U.S.A. / Canada

Part Code

Others

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.

● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

CAUTION

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire

or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

●

When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

●

Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

Turning on the machine

Insert the plug into a wall outlet.

a Main power switch b Jack/socket connector

Set the main power switch to “I”.

X The sewing lamp comes on when the

machine is turned on.

To turn off the machine, set the main power

switch to “{”.

X The sewing lamp goes off when the

machine is turned off.

Note

● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Foot controller

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on the rear side of the sewing machine.

a Foot controller jack/socket

CAUTION

● When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.

Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller)

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

Changing the needle stop position

Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

Slower

Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.

CAUTION

● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

Note

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).

Turn off the sewing machine.

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch selection

key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release

the “–” side of (stitch selection key).

X The needle stop position changes to the

raised position.

Memo

● Perform the same operation to change the needle stop position to the lowered position.

Changing the initial needle position

Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected when the sewing machine is turned on. The machine can be set so that the straight stitch (center needle position) is automatically selected when it is turned on.

Turn off the sewing machine.

Cancelling the operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep)

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep.

Turn off the sewing machine.

Hold down the “+” side of (stitch selection

key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release

the “+” side of (stitch selection key).

X The initial needle position changes to

the center needle position.

Memo

● The specified initial needle position is maintained even after the machine is turned off.

● Perform the same operation to change the initial needle position to the left needle position.

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch width

adjustment key) and turn on the sewing machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release the “-” side of (stitch width adjustment key).

X The machine is now set so that it will

not beep.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.

• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 14.

1 Pulling it in as far as

possible.

a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin

CAUTION

● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.

● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB).

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and

then put a spool of thread on this pin.

Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft

and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the

Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk.

spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin.

CAUTION

● If the spool of thread is not in the right place, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.

Pass the end of the thread through the hole on

the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin

Turn on the sewing machine.

While holding the end of the thread, gently

press the foot controller or press (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.

Note

● If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine.

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.

CAUTION

● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the thread completely, and the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.

Press the foot controller or press (start/

stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to start.

When the bobbin seems full and begins

spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller or press (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

to the left and remove the bobbin.

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its

original position (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).

Memo

● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

CAUTION

● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).

a Sewing speed controller

a Wound evenly b Wound poorly

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

■ For models equipped with the fast bobbin

winding system

Follow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in

“Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread around the pre-tension disk (page 12).

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft

so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin.

a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

While holding the thread that wraps around the

pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).

a Sewing speed controller

Turn on the sewing machine.

Press the foot controller or press (start/

stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to start.

Note

● If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine.

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).

When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take

your foot off the foot controller or press (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).

Pull the thread to the right and pass it through

the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

CAUTION

●

Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

to the left and remove the bobbin.

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its

original position (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).

CAUTION

●

Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle

a Wound evenly b Wound poorly

Memo

● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 16.

CAUTION

● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and resulting in injury.

a Wound evenly b Wound poorly

● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB).

Actual size

Slide the button and open the cover.

a Cover b Slide button

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in

the direction shown by the arrow.

• Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.

CAUTION

● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin

down with your finger, and then pass the thread through the slit, as shown.

• If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 31).

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

CAUTION

● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured.

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning

the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.

a Tension-adjusting spring

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

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Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.

• Replace the cover so that the end of the thread comes out from the left side of the cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).

■ For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning

the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.

Slide the button and open the cover.

• If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 31).

a Tension-adjusting spring

Memo

● The order that the bobbin thread should be

passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

a Cover b Slide button

Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread

through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.

• Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.

CAUTION

● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.

Memo

● You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want to draw up the bobbin thread before you start to sew, follow the procedure in “Drawing up the lower thread” (page 20).

a Cutter

Upper threading

Set the upper thread and thread the needle.

• For details on the needle threader, see page 18.

a Spool pin b Thread guide c Mark on the handwheel

CAUTION

● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.

Raise the presser foot using the presser foot

lever.

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up, or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

a Presser foot lever

a Mark b Needle position button

• If the needle is not correctly raised, the

sewing machine can not be threaded. Be sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark on the wheel points up before threading the sewing machine.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

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Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and

then put a spool of thread on this pin.

Note

● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the

CAUTION

upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise

● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure

on the previous page.

■ Using the needle threader (for models

Make sure you guide the thread through the

thread take-up lever from right to left.

equipped with the needle threader)

CAUTION

● The needle threader can only be used with home sewing machine needles size 75/11100/16. Check the table on page 21 for the appropriate needle and thread combinations. If you are using transparent nylon mono-

a Thread take-up lever

Put the thread behind the needle bar thread

guide above the needle.

The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.

filament thread, you can only use needles in the range of 90/14-100/16.

● You cannot use the needle threader if you are using decorative threads or special needles, such as the twin needle and wing needle. If you are using those types of threads or needles, thread the eye of the needle by hand. Make sure the main power switch is off when threading the needle by hand.

a Needle bar thread guide

Thread the needle from front to back and pull

out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread.

a 5 cm (2 inch)

Follow steps 1 through 6 of the procedure in

“Upper threading” to thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide.

Lower the presser foot lever.

While lowering the needle threader lever,

hook the thread onto the guide.

a Needle holder b Needle threader lever c Guide

Fully lower the needle threader lever.

X The end of the needle threader rotates

toward you and the hook passes through the eye of the needle.

Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.

Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through

the needle toward the back of the sewing machine.

a 5 cm (2 inch)

Note

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

a Hook b Thread

While lightly holding the thread, release the

needle threader lever. The hook will pull the thread through the needle.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

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Drawing up the lower thread

Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

a Upper thread

While holding the end of the upper thread,

raise the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice.

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads

and pull them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.

a Upper thread b Lower thread

■ For models equipped with the quick-set

bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.

Pass the thread along the slit in the direction

of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.

a Mark b Needle position button

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower

thread.

a Upper thread b Lower thread

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

Draw up the lower thread as described in

steps 1 to 4.

Replace the bobbin cover.

REPLACING THE NEEDLE

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Fabric Type/Application

Medium weight

fabrics

Thin fabrics

Thick fabrics

Stretch fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

For top-stitching

Thread

Type Size

Broadcloth Cotton thread

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50

Lawn Cotton thread

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Denim Cotton thread

Corduroy Synthetic thread

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Tricot

Thread for knits 50–60

Cotton thread

Silk thread 50

Synthetic thread

Silk thread

60–90

30 100/16

50–60

50–90

50 90/14–100/16

Size of Needle

75/11–90/14

65/9–75/11

90/14–100/16

Ball point needle

(gold colored)

75/11–90/14

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

Memo

● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.

● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

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CAUTION

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” .

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

a Mark b Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

a Flat side b Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

a Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

a Flat surface

CAUTION

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller or the start/ stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

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