Brother PR-650 Quick Start Manual

KNOWING YOUR

SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

ENGLISH

Basic Sewing and Mending Machine

Operation Manual

Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”

When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:

“Read all instructions before using.”

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1.The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2.Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1.Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children.

2.Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3.Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4.Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5.Never drop or insert any object into any openings.

6.Do not use this machine outdoors.

7.Do not operate this machine where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8.To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9.Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord.

10.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11.Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12.Do not use a bent needle.

13.Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14.Switch the sewing machine to the off, symbol “O” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot.

15.Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.

16.This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or impaired persons without supervision.

17.Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine.

“SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS”

“This sewing machine is intended for household use.”

1

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE

To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE

For safe operation

1.Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts.

2.Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:

•Operation is completed

•Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts

•A power failure occurs during use

•Maintaining the machine

•Leaving the machine unattended

3.Do not store anything on the foot controller.

4.Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

For a longer service life

1.When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

2.Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

3.Do not drop or hit the machine.

4.Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

For repair or adjustment

In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

•In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.

•Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

•If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if used by a person with a disability.

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

CONTENTS
CONTENTS .........................................................................................................................	3
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................	5
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................................................	5
The main parts .................................................................................................................................................	5
Needle and presser foot section ......................................................................................................................	6
Flat bed attachment .........................................................................................................................................	6
ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................	7
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ..................................................................................................	7
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................	8
Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................	8
Power supply ....................................................................................................................................................	8
Foot controller ..................................................................................................................................................	9
Steadying the machine .....................................................................................................................................	9
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................	10
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................	10
Lower threading .............................................................................................................................................	11
Upper threading .............................................................................................................................................	13
Drawing up the lower thread ..........................................................................................................................	14
REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................................................................	15
Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................	15
Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ....................................................................	15
Checking the needle ......................................................................................................................................	16
Replacing the needle .....................................................................................................................................	16
Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ................................................................................................................	18
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................	19
Replacing the presser foot .............................................................................................................................	19
Removing the presser foot holder ..................................................................................................................	20
2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................	21
SEWING ............................................................................................................................	21
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................	21
Selecting stitching ..........................................................................................................................................	22
Starting to sew ...............................................................................................................................................	23
Sewing in reverse ...........................................................................................................................................	23
Thread tension ...............................................................................................................................................	24
USEFUL SEWING TIPS ......................................................................................................	25
Trial sewing ....................................................................................................................................................	25
Changing the sewing direction .......................................................................................................................	25
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................	25
Sewing thick fabrics .......................................................................................................................................	25
Sewing thin fabrics .........................................................................................................................................	26
Sewing stretch fabrics ....................................................................................................................................	26
Using a free-arm style ....................................................................................................................................	26
3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................	27
USEFUL STITCHES ............................................................................................................	27
Zigzag stitches ...............................................................................................................................................	27
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................	28
Blind hem stitching .........................................................................................................................................	28
Darning ...........................................................................................................................................................	30

3

BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................	31
Making the buttonhole ....................................................................................................................................	31
Adjusting buttonhole stitching ........................................................................................................................	32
Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................	33
ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................	34
APPLIQUÉ, MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING .................................................	35
Appliqués .......................................................................................................................................................	35
Monogramming and embroidering .................................................................................................................	35
DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................	37
Gathering .......................................................................................................................................................	37
Shell tuck stitching .........................................................................................................................................	37
Elastic stitching ..............................................................................................................................................	38
4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................	39
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................	39
Oiling ..............................................................................................................................................................	39
Changing the bulb ..........................................................................................................................................	39
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................	40
Cleaning the shuttle race ...............................................................................................................................	40
Cleaning the feed dogs ..................................................................................................................................	41
Bobbin case tension adjustment ....................................................................................................................	42
TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................	43
INDEX ...............................................................................................................................	46

4

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

The main parts

aButtonhole fine-adjusting screw (page 32)

Turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw to adjust buttonhole stitching when it is not uniform.

bPattern selection dial (page 22)

Turn the pattern selection dial to select the number of the stitch that you want to use.

cThread take-up lever (page 13)

dUpper tension control dial (page 24)

This controls the tension of the upper thread.

eFlat bed attachment with accessory storage (page 6 and 26)

fReverse sewing lever (page 23)

Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew in the opposite direction.

gBuilt-in handle

hSpool pin (page 10 and 13)

The spool pin holds the spool of thread.

iBobbin winder (page 10)

The bobbin winder winds thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.

jHandwheel

Use the handwheel to manually raise and lower the needle.

kMain power/sewing light switch (page 8)

Use this switch to turn on and off the main power and sewing light.

lFoot controller jack/jack

Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller jack, which also supplies power to this machine.

mThread cutter (page 23)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

nPresser foot lever (page 13)

Use the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

oBobbin winding pre-tension disc/thread guide (page 10 and 13)

The thread guide/bobbin winding pre-tension disc is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and threading the machine.

pFoot controller (page 9)

Use the foot controller to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing.

Part code;

XC7359-021 (110/120V Area), XC7438-321 (220/240V Area), XC7456-321 (U.K.), XE0629-001 (Australia, New Zealand), XD0852-021 (Korea), XC7438-321 (Russia), XD0115-121(Argentina), XE3414-001(Brazil(120V)), XE4302-001(Brazil(220V)),XE3447-001(Taiwan)

5

Needle and presser foot section

aPresser foot holder assembly

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder assembly.

bPresser foot screw

Use the presser foot screw to hold the presser foot holder assembly in place.

cPresser foot (Zigzag)

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching.

dFeed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

eNeedle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.

fShuttle hook

gShuttle cover

Open the shuttle cover to set the bobbin.

hBobbin case

iNeedle

jNeedle bar thread guide

kNeedle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.

aLift the bottom of the flat bed attachment 1 toward you, and then pull the flat bed

attachment out to remove it.

aFlat bed attachment

bStorage compartment

Note

●Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the bag inside the compartment. If the accessories are not in a bag, they may fall out, and be lost or damaged.

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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

ACCESSORIES

The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

●Foot controller: Model KD-1902, N

This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: VX-1435/LX-3125.

●The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)

●A replacement for the factory-installed presser foot is available through your authorized dealer. (Part number: 138135-122)

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

90/14 needle

No.	Part Name	Part Code			No.	Part Name	Part Code
		U.S.A. / Canada		Others			U.S.A. / Canada	Others
1	Buttonhole foot “A”	X59369	-321		5	Bobbin	SA156	XA5539-151
2	Zipper foot “I”	X59370-021			6	Needle set	XE5328	-001
3	Button sewing foot “M”	XE2137-001			7	Oval screwdriver	XE5241-001
4	Darning plate	XA3442-121

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

1.2.

No.	Part Name	Part Code
		U.S.A. / Canada		Others
1	Extra spool pin	130920	-021
2	Twin needle	X57521-021

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USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Power supply precautions	1

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING

●Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

●Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

•When you are away from the machine

•After using the machine

•When the power fails during use

•When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

•During electrical storms

CAUTION

●Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.

●Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

●When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

●Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

●Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

Power supply

aInsert the foot controller plug, located between the foot controller and the power supply plug on the cord, into the jack on the machine. Then, insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet.

bSet the main power switch to “I”.

XThe sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on.

a Foot controller plug

8

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

cTo turn off the machine, set the main power switch to “{”.

XThe sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off.

Note

●If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing

machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

●This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.

If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Foot controller

CAUTION

●When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.

Slower

Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.

CAUTION

●Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

●A new sewing machine or one that has not been in use for a long period of time should be oiled as described on page 39. After oiling, be sure to wipe off any excess oil.

Steadying the machine

If the sewing machine has been placed on an uneven surface, turn the rubber cushion in the right-front corner of the base plate to adjust its height until the sewing machine is stable.

9

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin	1

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.

1 Pulling it in as far as possible.

aPre-tension disk

bBobbin winder shaft

cBobbin

CAUTION

●Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.

●We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).

Actual size

11.5 mm (7/16 inches)

This model

Other models

aPull up the spool pin as far as possible, and then put a spool of thread on this pin.

bPass the thread around the pre-tension disk.

CAUTION

●If the spool of thread is not in the right place, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.

cPass the end of the thread through the hole on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

dPut the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin.

eTurn on the sewing machine.

fWhile holding the end of the thread, gently press the foot controller to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.

aSpring on the shaft

bGroove of the bobbin

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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

gTrim the excess thread above the bobbin.

CAUTION

●Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the thread completely, and the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.

hPress the foot controller to start.

iWhen the bobbin seems full and begins spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller.

jCut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.

Memo

●When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

●The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

CAUTION

●Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and resulting in injury.

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

CAUTION

●Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and resulting in injury.

12

aWound evenly

bWound poorly

●The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).

Actual size

11.5 mm (7/16 inches)

This model	Other models

CAUTION

●Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured.

aRaise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and raise the presser foot lever.

12

aWound evenly

bWound poorly

11

bOpen the shuttle cover behind the flat bed attachment at the front of the machine.

aFlat bed attachment

bShuttle cover

cRemove the bobbin case by pulling its latch toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle race.

a Bobbin case latch

dUnwind about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread from a full bobbin, and then insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

•Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.

CAUTION

●Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

ePull the trailing thread through the slot, down and to the left, as shown below, until it enters the delivery eye under the tension spring.

1

a Tension spring

fHold the bobbin case by the latch, fully insert the bobbin case into the shuttle race, and then release the latch.

•Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the shuttle race.

aBobbin case finger

bNotch

gClose the shuttle cover.

CAUTION

●Make sure that the bobbin case is properly placed back into the machine. If it is incorrectly installed, it will fall out from the shuttle when the machine starts to sew.

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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Upper threading

Set the upper thread and thread the needle.

aSpool pin

bThread guide (rear)

cThread guide (front)

dThread take-up lever

CAUTION

● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.

aRaiselever.the presser foot using the presser foot

a Presser foot lever

bRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position.

cPull up the spool pin as far as possible, and then put a spool of thread on this pin.

CAUTION

●If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

dFeed the upper thread through both thread guides: the rear one first, then the front one.

ePull the thread down and around the upper tension control dial from the right to the left so the thread picks up the thread check spring.

•If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine can not be threaded. Be sure to turn the handwheel before threading the sewing machine.

aUpper tension control dial

bThread check spring

13

fWhile holding the thread as shown below, pull it between the tension discs.

gGuide the thread through the thread take-up lever from right to left.

a Thread take-up lever

hPut the thread behind the needle bar thread guide above the needle.

The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.

a Needle bar thread guide

iThread the needle from front to back and pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread.

a 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

●If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.

●If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

Drawing up the lower thread

aLightly hold the end of the upper thread.

1

a Upper thread

bWhile holding the end of the upper thread, raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

cPullthread.on the upper thread to draw up the lower

aUpper thread

bLower thread

dPull out about 15 cm (6 inches) of both threads and pull them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.

aUpper thread

bLower thread

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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

REPLACING THE NEEDLE

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION

●Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

●Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.

Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads.

	Sewing fabrics		Needle sizes	Thread sizes
		Fine tricot, Fine lace,		Cotton: 80
				Synthetic/ Polyester Long
Very thin		Thin linen, Silk,	65/9
				Fiber
		Organza, Chiffon
				Fine Mercerized Cotton
				Cotton: 60-80
Lightweight		Voile, Taffeta,		Silk: “A”
			75/11	Synthetic/ Polyester Long
		Synthetics, Silk, Batiste
				Fiber
				Mercerized 50
		Cotton, Gingham,		Cotton: 50-60
		Poplin, Percale, Pique,
				Silk: “A”
Medium weight		Satin, Velvet,	90/14 (Supplied with
		Lightweight wool,	your machine.)	Synthetic/ Polyester Long
				Fiber
		Fine corduroy, Suitings,
				Mercerized 50-60
		Linen, Muslin
		Denim, Gabardine,		Cotton: 40-50
Heavyweight		Tweed, Corduroy,	100/16	Mercerized Heavy Duty
		Canvas, Duck		Polyester Long Fiber
Knits		Single knit, Double knit,		Cotton Wrapped
			90/14 (Ball point)	Polyester
		Jersey, Tricot		Polyester Long Fiber

Memo

●The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.

●Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

●Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.

●A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.

15

CAUTION

●The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated.

Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

1

2

aFlat side

bNeedle type marking

■Correct needle

1

aFlat surface

■Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

1

a Flat surface

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the oval screwdriver and a needle that has been determined

to be straight according to the instructions in 1 “Checking the needle” .

aTurn off the sewing machine.

CAUTION

●Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

bRaise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

cLower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

dHold the needle with your left hand, and then use a oval screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.

Note

●The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much, the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much.)

aOval screwdriver

bNeedle clamp screw

•Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

eWith the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

a Needle stopper

fWhile holding the needle with your left hand, use the oval screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION

●Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the oval screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

■Installing the needle clamp

If the needle clamp is removed, follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar.

aAs seen from the front of the machine, slide the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom.

aNeedle clamp screw

bNeedle bar thread guide

cNeedle bar

bAlign the bottom edge of the needle holder with the end of the needle bar, and then tighten the needle clamp screw.

aNeedle bar

bNeedle holder

cNeedle clamp screw

dAlign

17

Sewing with a twin needle (Option)

We have designed your machine so you can sew with the optional twin needle and two top threads. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.

The stitches available for twin-needle sewing are straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2. 1

CAUTION

●Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021). Other needles could break, and damage the machine.

●Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.

●When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch (straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2), otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

●Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

●When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.

■ Twin needle threading

aAttach the twin needle.

Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single needle (page 16).

bAttach the extra spool pin.

Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of the machine. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin.

aFirst spool

bSecond spool

cUse the thread from the first spool to thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide.

The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 13 for more details.

dThread the left needle from front to back.

eUse the thread from the second spool to thread the machine to the thread take-up lever.

The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 13 for more details.

fThread the right needle from front to back.

Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.

aLeft needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide.

bRight needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide.

cNeedle bar thread guide

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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT

CAUTION

●Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.

●Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.

●Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

aIfturntheitsewingoff. machine has been turned on,

CAUTION

●Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

bRaise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

cRaise the presser foot lever.

dPress the black button at the back of the presser foot holder to release the presser foot.

aBlack button

bPresser foot holder

ePlace a different presser foot below the holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the shank in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, I, etc.) is positioned to be read.

aPresser foot holder

bShank

cPin

fSlowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the presser foot holder.

a Presser foot lever	a Presser foot lever
	X The presser foot is attached.

19

gRaise the presser foot lever to check that the presser foot is securely attached.

Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the oval screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

aRemove the presser foot.

•For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 19).

bUse the oval screwdriver to loosen the presser foot holder screw.

aOval screwdriver

bPresser foot holder

cPresser foot holder screw

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

aAlign the presser foot holder with the lowerleft side of the presser bar.

1

aPresser foot holder

bPresser bar

bHold the presser foot holder in place with your right hand, and then tighten the screw using the oval screwdriver in your left hand.

aOval screwdriver

bPresser foot holder

cPresser foot holder screw

Note

●If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

20

SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————

2 SEWING BASICS

SEWING

Basic sewing operations are described below.

Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION

●While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

●Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.

●Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

●Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

	1	Turn on the	Turn on the sewing machine.
		machine.	For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Power supply” (page 8).
			↓
	2	Select the stitch.	Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
			For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 22).
			↓
	3	Attach the presser	Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
			For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
		foot.
			foot” (page 19).
			↓
	4	Start sewing.	Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the
			threads.
			For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 23).

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Selecting stitching

Turning the stitch selection dial in either direction, select the desired stitch.

2

Pattern selection dial

Number on dial	Stitch name		Pattern			Page
	4-step automatic	b		ac		d
1						31
	buttonhole
2	Zigzag stitch
3	Zigzag stitch
						27, 35
4	Zigzag stitch
5	Zigzag (satin) stitch
	Straight stitch	6	7	8	9	10
6 -10						28, 30,
	(Center needle position)					34, 37
		Select the desired length.
11	Straight stitch					28
	(Left needle position)
12	Stretch blind					28
	Stitch
13	Shell tuck stitch					37
14	Elastic stitch					38

22

SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————

Starting to sew

aTurn on the sewing machine.

bRaise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

cRaise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

dPlace the fabric under the presser foot, pass the thread under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

a 5 cm (2 inches)

eWhile holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

fLower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

gSlowly press down on the foot controller.

XThe machine starts sewing.

hTake your foot off the foot controller.

XThe machine stops sewing.

iRaise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

jRaise the presser foot lever.

kPull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads through the thread cutter on the back of the presser foot bar to cut them.

a Thread cutter

Sewing in reverse

Reverse sewing is used to lock the threads at the end of the seam or wherever reinforcement is needed.

aPress and hold down the reverse sewing lever while sewing.

bTo sew forward, release the reverse sewing lever.

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Thread tension

The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.

Memo

●Before beginning to change tension adjustments make sure the upper thread and bobbin are inserted correctly.

●We recommend you do a test sample on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew.

■Correct tension

Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.

	1
	a Wrong side
2	b Surface
	c Upper thread

d Lower thread

3

4

■Upper tension is too tight

Loops appear on the surface of the fabric.

Note

●If the bobbin thread was incorrectly inserted, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Lower threading” (page 11) and reinsert the bobbin.

	1
		a Wrong side
		b Surface
2		c Upper thread
		d Lower thread
		e Loops appear on
3	5	surface of fabric

4

Solution

Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number.

■Upper tension is too loose

Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

Note

●If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper threading” (page 13) and rethread.

1	5	2
		a Wrong side
		b Surface
2		c Upper thread
		d Lower thread
		e Loops appear on
3		wrong side of
		fabric

4

Solution

Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number.

■Bobbin tension is too loose

Loops may appear on the surface of the fabric when sewing thin fabric with thin thread.

	1
		a Wrong side
		b Surface
2		c Upper thread
		d Lower thread
		e Loops appear on
3	5	surface of fabric

4

Solution

Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number.

If the problem persists, increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw clockwise with a small oval screwdriver.

Be sure not to turn the screw more than one full turn. In addition, be sure to return the screw to its original position before the next time that the machine is used.

Note

●The bobbin thread tension has been adjusted at the factory for general use. For most sewing applications, no adjustment is needed.

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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————

USEFUL SEWING TIPS

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing

A trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.

For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

aWhen the stitching reaches a corner, stop the sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle was raised, lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

CAUTION

●When using the twin needle, be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.

bRaisefabric.the presser foot lever, and then turn the

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

cLowersewing.the presser foot lever and continue

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve.

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Sewing thick fabrics

■If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

CAUTION

●If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

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Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

2

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

a Basting

Using a free-arm style

Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas.

To change your machine to the free-arm style, lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment toward you, and then pull the flat bed attachment out to remove it.

a Flat bed attachment

26

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

3 UTILITY STITCHES

USEFUL STITCHES

Zigzag stitches

You can use the zigzag stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials.

Number

Stitch name Application

on dial

2
	Zigzag stitch
		Overcasting and
3
	Zigzag stitch	attaching appliqués.
		Select the desired
		width.
4
	Zigzag stitch
5	Zigzag (satin)	Overcasting and
		attaching appliqués
	stitch	with the decorative
		satin stitches.

aSelect a stitch.

•For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 22).

bLower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

cStart sawing.

•For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 23).

Memo

●When sewing with a zigzag stitch, use straight stitches at the beginning and end of the zigzag stitch for reinforcement.

dWhen sewing is finished, cut the thread.

•For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 23).

CAUTION

●Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

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Basic stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Two stitches are available for basic stitching.

Number on dial		Stitch name	Application
		Straight stitch	Attaching
6 7 8 9 10			zippers, basic
		(Center needle	stitching, and
		position)	sewing gathers
			or darning, etc.
11		Straight stitch	Basic stitching,
		(Left needle	sewing gathers
		position)	or pintucks, etc.

aBaste or pin together the fabric pieces.

bSelect a stitch.

•For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 22).

cLower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

dStart sewing.

•For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 23).

eWhen sewing is finished, cut the thread.

•For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 23).

Blind hem stitching

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.

	Number	Stitch name	Application
	on dial
	12	Stretch blind	Blind hem stitching on
		Stitch	stretch fabrics.

aReverse the skirt or pants.

3

aRight side of fabric

bBottom side

bFold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and press.

<Seen from the side>

aWrong side of fabric

bRight side of fabric

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