KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
APPENDIX
Computerized Sewing Machine
Operation Manual
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
Important Safety Instructions
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. This machine is intended for household use.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:
•To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
•Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
•Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord. When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise you may injure your back or knees.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
•Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
•Do not store objects on the foot controller.
•Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
•Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
•Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
•Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
•Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when sewing:
•Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
•Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
•Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.
•Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
•Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
•Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
•The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
•Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
•When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
•Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
•Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
1
8 For repair or adjustment:
•If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
•In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. Save these instructions.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice. For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
•In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
•Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
•If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if used by a person with a disability.
2
CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .......................................................... |
5 |
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .................................................... |
5 |
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. |
5 |
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... |
6 |
Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. |
6 |
Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ |
7 |
Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... |
7 |
ACCESSORIES ..................................................................................................................... |
8 |
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ |
8 |
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..................................................................................... |
9 |
Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................ |
9 |
Power supply .................................................................................................................................................... |
9 |
Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ |
10 |
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ..................................................... |
10 |
Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. |
10 |
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................ |
11 |
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ |
11 |
Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. |
14 |
Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. |
16 |
Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... |
19 |
REPLACING THE NEEDLE ................................................................................................. |
20 |
Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ |
20 |
Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... |
20 |
Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... |
21 |
Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... |
21 |
Sewing with a twin needle .............................................................................................................................. |
23 |
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ...................................................................................... |
24 |
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. |
24 |
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. |
25 |
2. SEWING BASICS ........................................................................................... |
26 |
SEWING ............................................................................................................................ |
26 |
General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. |
26 |
Selecting stitching .......................................................................................................................................... |
27 |
Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... |
28 |
Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................... |
29 |
USEFUL SEWING TIPS ...................................................................................................... |
31 |
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... |
31 |
Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... |
31 |
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ |
31 |
Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... |
31 |
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................................................................................... |
32 |
Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... |
33 |
Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... |
33 |
Using a free-arm style .................................................................................................................................... |
33 |
3
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................ |
34 |
OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................ |
34 |
BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................ |
35 |
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ |
35 |
BLIND HEM STITCHING .................................................................................................. |
36 |
BUTTONHOLE SEWING ................................................................................................... |
39 |
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. |
42 |
ZIPPER INSERTION ........................................................................................................... |
44 |
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................ |
45 |
Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. |
45 |
Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. |
45 |
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................ |
46 |
Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... |
46 |
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... |
47 |
Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... |
47 |
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... |
48 |
Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... |
49 |
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING ......................................................................................... |
50 |
Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... |
50 |
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ |
50 |
DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................ |
52 |
Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... |
53 |
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. |
53 |
Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... |
54 |
Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... |
54 |
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ |
55 |
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... |
55 |
4. APPENDIX ..................................................................................................... |
56 |
STITCH SETTINGS ............................................................................................................. |
56 |
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. |
56 |
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................ |
61 |
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ |
61 |
Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... |
61 |
TROUBLESHOOTING ....................................................................................................... |
63 |
ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................ |
66 |
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... |
66 |
INDEX ............................................................................................................................... |
67 |
4
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
1
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
The main parts
aBobbin winder (page 11)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.
bSpool pin (pages 11 and 16)
This holds the spool of thread.
cHole for extra spool pin (page 23)
This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two needles. Not for lubrication.
dUpper tension-control dial (page 29)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
eThread guide (pages 11 and 16)
This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine.
fThread take-up lever (page 17)
gThread cutter (page 29)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
hFlat bed attachment with accessory compartment (pages 7 and 33)
iOperation buttons (page 6)
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
jOperation panel (page 7)
This is used to select the stitch and specify the various settings.
kHandwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
lMain power and sewing light switch (page 9)
You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off.
mJack/socket connector (page 9)
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/ socket connector.
nFoot controller jack/socket (page 10)
Plug in the foot controller plug.
oFeed dog position lever (pages 42 and 49)
Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.
pPresser foot lever (page 16)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
qFoot controller (page 10)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to start and stop sewing.
rHandle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.
5
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Needle and presser foot section
aButtonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.
bNeedle threader (for models equipped with the needle threader) (page 17)
cPresser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
dPresser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place.
ePresser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching.
fFeed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
gQuick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quickset bobbin)
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
hBobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
iNeedle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.
jNeedle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
kNeedle clamp screw
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
aPresser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.
bReverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement stitches” (page 29).
■ Buttons provided on some models
c Start/stop button (for models equipped with the start/stop button)
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 28).
d Needle position button (for models equipped with the needle position button)
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
eSewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
6
Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn.
aLCD (liquid crystal display)
The number of the selected stitch (1), the presser foot to be used (2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the stitch width (mm) (4) are displayed here.
bStitch selection keys
Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
cStitch length adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the “–” side to reduce the stitch length; press the “+” side to increase the stitch length.)
dStitch width adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the “–” side to reduce the stitch width; press the “+” side to increase the stitch width.)
Flat bed attachment
The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.
aSlideopen theit. flat bed attachment to the left to 1
aFlat bed attachment
bStorage compartment
Note
●Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the bag inside the compartment. If the accessories are not in a bag, they may fall out, and be lost or damaged.
7
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks.
Note
●Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this machine model HS-2000.
●The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)
1. |
2. |
3. |
4. |
5. |
6. |
7. |
8. |
9. |
10. |
11. |
12. |
13. |
14. |
15. |
75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle
No. |
Part Name |
Part Code |
No. |
Part Name |
Part Code |
|||
U.S.A. / Canada |
Others |
U.S.A. / Canada |
Others |
|||||
1 |
Buttonhole foot “A” |
XC2691-033 |
9 |
Bobbin (4) |
SA156 |
XA5539-151 |
||
2 |
Overcasting foot “G” |
XC3098-031 |
10 |
Needle set |
XC8834 |
-021 |
||
3 |
Monogramming foot “N” |
XD0810-031 |
11 |
Twin needle |
131096-121 |
|||
4 |
Zipper foot “I” |
X59370-021 |
12 |
Cleaning brush |
X59476-021 |
|||
5 |
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) |
XC3021-031 |
13 |
Screwdriver |
XC8349-021 |
|||
6 |
Blind stitch foot “R” |
XC4051-031 |
14 |
Extra spool pin |
130920-021 |
|||
7 |
Button fitting foot “M” |
XE2137-001 |
15 |
Foot controller |
XD0501-021 (EU area) |
|||
8 |
Seam ripper |
X54243-051 |
XC8816-021 (Other areas) |
|||||
|
|
Optional accessories
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
No. |
Part Name |
Part Code |
No. |
Part Name |
Part Code |
|||
U.S.A. / Canada |
Others |
U.S.A. / Canada |
Others |
|||||
|
|
|
|
|||||
1 |
Walking Foot |
SA140 |
F033N: |
4 |
Quilting guide |
SA132 |
F016N: |
|
XC2214-002 |
XC2215-002 |
|||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||
2 |
Quilting Foot |
SA129 |
F005N: |
5 |
Eyelet punch |
XZ5051-001 |
||
XC1948-002 |
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
3 |
1/4-Inch Quilting |
SA125 |
F001N: |
|
|
|
|
|
Foot |
XC1944-002 |
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
8
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Power supply precautions |
1 |
|
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
●Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
●Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.
●Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
●Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
•When you are away from the machine
•After using the machine
•When the power fails during use
•When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
•During electrical storms
CAUTION
●Use only the power cord included with this machine.
●Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.
●Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
●When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
●Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
●Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.
Power supply
aInsert the plug into a wall outlet.
aMain power switch
bJack/socket connector
bSet the main power switch to “I”.
XThe sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on.
cTo turn off the machine, set the main power switch to “{”.
XThe sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off.
Note
●If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
●This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
9
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Foot controller
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on the rear side of the sewing machine.
a Foot controller jack/socket
CAUTION
●When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.
Slower
Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.
CAUTION
●Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.
Note
●When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button)
aSlide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
•The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.
Changing the needle stop position
Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
aTurn off the sewing machine.
bHold down the “–” side of (stitch selection key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release the “–” side of (stitch selection key).
XThe needle stop position changes to the raised position.
Memo
•Perform the same operation to change the needle stop position to the lowered position.
10
THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin |
1 |
|
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 13.
1 Pulling it in as far as possible.
aPre-tension disk
bBobbin winder shaft
cBobbin
CAUTION
●Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
●We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm (7/16 inch)
This model |
Other models |
aPull up the spool pin as far as possible, and then put a spool of thread on this pin.
bPass the thread around the pre-tension disk.
CAUTION
●If the spool of thread is not in the right place, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.
cPass the end of the thread through the hole on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.
dPut the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin.
12
aSpring on the shaft
bGroove of the bobbin
eTurn on the sewing machine.
11
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
fWhile holding the end of the thread, gently press the foot controller or press (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.
Note
●If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine.
●When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).
gTrim the excess thread above the bobbin.
CAUTION
●Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the thread completely, and the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.
hSlide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast). (For models equipped with the sewing speed controller.)
iPress the foot controller or press (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to start.
jWhen the bobbin seems full and begins spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller or press (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).
kCut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.
lSlide the sewing speed controller back to its original position (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).
Memo
●When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
●The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
CAUTION
●Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
12
aWound evenly
bWound poorly
a Sewing speed controller
12
■For models equipped with the fast bobbin winding system
aFollow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in “Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread around the pre-tension disk (page 11).
bPlace the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin.
aNotch
bBobbin winder shaft spring
cSlide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
dWhile holding the thread that wraps around the pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.
ePull the thread to the right and pass it through the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
CAUTION
●Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
fSlide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).
1
a Sewing speed controller
gTurn on the sewing machine.
hPress the foot controller or press (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to start.
Note
●If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine.
●When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).
iWhen the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller or press (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).
jCut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.
kSlide the sewing speed controller back to its original position (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).
CAUTION
●Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
12
aWound evenly
bWound poorly
13
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
●When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
●The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 15.
CAUTION
●Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and resulting in injury.
12
aWound evenly
bWound poorly
●The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm (7/16 inch)
This model |
Other models |
CAUTION
●Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured.
aRaise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.
bSlide the button and open the cover.
1 2
aCover
bSlide button
cPut the bobbin in so the thread comes out in the direction shown by the arrow.
•Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.
CAUTION
●Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
dHold the end of the thread, push the bobbin down with your finger, and then pass the thread through the slit, as shown.
•If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 29).
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a Tension-adjusting spring
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eReplace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.
•Replace the cover so that the end of the thread comes out from the left side of the cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
■For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin
aRaise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.
bSlide the button and open the cover.
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aCover
bSlide button
cPut the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.
•Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.
CAUTION
●Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
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a Cutter
•If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 29).
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a Tension-adjusting spring
Memo
●The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
dReplace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.
Memo
●You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want to draw up the bobbin thread before you start to sew, follow to the procedure in “Drawing up the lower thread” (page 19).
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle.
• For details on the needle threader, see page 17.
aSpool pin
bThread guide
cMark on the handwheel
CAUTION
● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.
aRaiselever.the presser foot using the presser foot
a Presser foot lever
bRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up, or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.
or
a Mark |
b Needle position button |
•If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine can not be threaded. Be sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark on the wheel points up before threading the sewing machine.
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cPull up the spool pin as far as possible, and then put a spool of thread on this pin.
CAUTION
●If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.
dFeed the upper thread as shown in the figure on the previous page.
eMake sure you guide the thread through the thread take-up lever from right to left.
a Thread take-up lever
fPut the thread behind the needle bar thread guide above the needle.
The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.
a Needle bar thread guide
gThread the needle from front to back and pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Note
●If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the
thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise
the presser foot lever and the thread take-up 1 lever before you feed the upper thread.
●If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.
■Using the needle threader (for models equipped with the needle threader)
CAUTION
●The needle threader can only be used with home sewing machine needles size 75/11100/16. Check the table on page 20 for the appropriate needle and thread combinations. If you are using transparent nylon monofilament thread, you can only use needles in the range of 90/14-100/16.
●You cannot use the needle threader if you are using decorative threads or special needles, such as the twin needle and wing needle.
If you are using those types of threads or needles, thread the eye of the needle by hand. Make sure the main power switch is off when threading the needle by hand.
aFollow steps 1 through 6 of the procedure in “Upper threading” to thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide.
bLower the presser foot lever.
cWhile lowering the needle threader lever, hook the thread onto the guide.
aNeedle holder
bNeedle threader lever
cGuide
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
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Fully lower the needle threader lever. |
Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through |
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X The end of the needle threader rotates toward you and the hook passes through the eye of the needle.
eCatch the thread on the hook as shown below.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Note
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.
aHook
bThread
fWhile lightly holding the thread, release the needle threader lever. The hook will pull the thread through the needle.
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Drawing up the lower thread
aLightly hold the end of the upper thread.
a Upper thread
bWhile holding the end of the upper thread, raise the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice.
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a Mark |
b Needle position button |
cPullthread.on the upper thread to draw up the lower
aUpper thread
bLower thread
dPull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads
and pull them toward the back of the machine 1 under the presser foot.
aUpper thread
bLower thread
■For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin
You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.
aPass the thread along the slit in the direction of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.
• The bobbin cover should still be removed.
bDraw up the lower thread as described in steps 1 to 4.
cReplace the bobbin cover.
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
REPLACING THE NEEDLE
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
●Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
●Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Fabric Type/Application |
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Medium weight |
Broadcloth |
Cotton thread |
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60–90 |
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Taffeta |
Synthetic thread |
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75/11–90/14 |
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Flannel, Gabardine |
Silk thread |
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50 |
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Lawn |
Cotton thread |
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60–90 |
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Thin fabrics |
Georgette |
Synthetic thread |
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65/9–75/11 |
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Challis, Satin |
Silk thread |
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50 |
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Denim |
Cotton thread |
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30 |
100/16 |
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Thick fabrics |
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50 |
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Corduroy |
Synthetic thread |
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50–60 |
90/14–100/16 |
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Tweed |
Silk thread |
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Stretch fabrics |
Jersey |
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Ball point needle |
Tricot |
Thread for knits |
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50–60 |
(gold colored) |
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75/11–90/14 |
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Cotton thread |
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50–90 |
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Silk thread |
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Synthetic thread |
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90/14–100/16 |
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Memo
●The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.
●Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
●Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.
●A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.
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