Escalade Sports P1225LGRL 527.25155 User Manual

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OWNER'S MANUAL

CHAMPION 8 FT. DROP POCKET POOL TABLE

MODEL NO. P]225LGRL 527.25155

MODEL NO. P]227LGRLA 527.25165

1.READ THIS MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING ASSEMBLY. Read each step completely before beginning each step.

2.SOME SMALLER PARTSMAY BE SHIPPED INSIDE LARGER PARTS.CHECK INSIDE ALL PARTS AND CARTONS BEFORE ASSEMBLING OR ORDERING PARTS.

3.USE THE HARDWARE IDENTIFIER TO IDENTIFY AND SORT ALL FASTENERS. CHECK ALL CARTONS FOR KITS. ALL HARDWARE IS NOT LOCATED IN ONE KIT.

THIS TABLEISCONTAINED IN THREESEPARATECONTAINERS:

PLEASE DO NOT RETURN PRODUCT TO THE STORE!

Contact Escalade® Sports customer service department at:

Phone: 1-866-556-2757Toll Free!

Fax: 1-866-873-3532Toll Free!

E-mail:billiardtables@escaladesports.com

Mailing Address (Correspondence Only):

Escalade® Sports, PO Box 889, Evansville, IN 47706

Please visit our World Wide Web site at:

www.escaladesports.com

On-LineTrouble Shooting Frequently Asked Questions

Technical Assistance On-LineParts Requests

Additional Escalade® Sports Product Information

ESCAI.ADE

S P 0 R T S

Escdade® Spots products may be manufactured and/or licensed underthe following patents.

D446275

Additional patents may be pending. One or more of the listed patents and/or pending patents may cover specific product.

2L-6860-00

@2004 Escalade® Sports

CAUTION

THE SPRAY ADHESIVE USED FOR APPLYING PLAYFIELD CLOTH IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND UNDER PRESSURE! CAREFULLY READ CAUTIONS ON SPRAY ADHESIVE CONTAINER! KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF

CHILDREN! DO NOT USE OR STORENEAR HEAT SOURCE! FLAMES! SPARKS ORWHEN SMOKING!WORK

AREA MUST BE WELL VENTILATED. OPEN DOORS ANDWINDOWS WHEN USING SPRAY ADHESIVE.

t.IMPORTANT t.

THE DRAWINGS IN THIS

MANUAL MAY BE

EXAGGERATED OR MOl-

TO SHOW DETAILS.

 

 

 

Tools Needed:

(Not

Included)

Hammer

(Claw Type)

Tape Measure

 

Needle

Nose Pliers

Sandpaper (80

grit)

Phillips Screwdriver

Sanding

Block

 

Drill

 

• Awl or 8d Nail

 

 

 

 

 

1/8" Drill Bit

• Scissors or Sharp Knife

Putty Knife

 

 

 

 

Hammer (Small Ball Peen Type)

Carpenters Levelor 36" Straight Edge

7/16" Open End Wrench

1/2" Open End Wrench

Rachet with 3/8", 7/16", and 1/2" sockets

NOTE: Rails are made with cushion rubber at a height that requires standard 2 1/4" diameter balls. Your dealer has a complete line Billiard Accessories.

NOTE: This table adds weight to any floor. Be sure floor can withstand this kind of weight. If floor sags, table will be impossible to level.

ASSEMBLE TWO LEG PEDESTALS AS FOLLOWS:

1.Begin by opening hardware kits and sod hardware. Remove the mounting plate from one leveler #22 and attach it to bottom of

left leg # 19 using two screws #27 and two dowel connectors #26. Cover holes with adhesive hole covers #28. See Figure t. Screw leveler #22 back into mounting plate.

2.Repeat for other left leg #19 and two right legs #20.

19&20

Covered holes

should face

inward. \

Use

21

 

holes

3. Attach leg panels #21 to left leg posts# t 9 and right leg posts #20 using screws #45. Starl by installing the top screws in leg panel using the pre-drilled statler hole in post #19. Square edge of leg panel up to edge of post #19 then, install the bottom two screws #45. (SeeFigure 2) Do not tighten screws#45 until instructed to do so.

4. Set up pedestals so that they face each other.

Pedestal

15

5.Attach beam # 15 by using four bolts #40, eight washers

#50, and four tocknuts #49 for each of the leg mounting location. Place one washer between the bolts and beam and

one between leg posts and tocknuts. Tighten these bolts securely. (See figure 4)

6.Attach other beam # 15 to the other side the same way. (See figure 4)

Make sure the holes in the edge of the beams #15 are on the top ofthe beams when attached.

7.Place the frame in its final location. Square the base frame assembly by measuring diagonally from the corner of one beam to the opposite corner of the other beam. (See Figure 5) Nudgethe frame until both diagonals are equal (within 1/16 inch).

8.Go back and tighten all loose screws, nuts and bolts.

40

5O

WARNING

Holes marked by arrows

MUST be on the TOP

when attached to leg pedestals.

4O

5o

15

NOTE: Screwheads should be flush with or below the

top of the slats #16 and #17.

Detail A

,8H

36

15\

Slot should be straight

up and down

Hole for dowel connector #36

is closer to the

16

top of beam.

9.Place long slats #16 (50 inches long) and short slats # 17(36 inches long) across table from beam to beam as shown in figure 6. Make sure to use the two shorter slats #17 on the ends of the beams and the two longer slats #16 in the center as shown. Insert four dowel connectors #36 into the four holes in the side of each of the beams # 15, these holes should be doser to the top of the beams #15. (SeeDetaiIA).AttachthesIats#16, and #17 to the wooden beams #15 by pIacing screws # 18 through the slats and into the dowel connectors #36 that are in the beams # 15 and tighten, make surenot toover tighten them. (See figure 4 and detail A))

HINT: When holes are lined up, the slot in the dowel connector should be vertical. After holes line up, insert screws # 18 into slats and down into dowel connectors. It is recommended to start the screws by hand and not forcing them with power tools until you are sure threads are engaged properly. Do not tighten completely yet.

./

10.Square up the long slats # 16 by measuring diagonally, similar to the method used earFerto square up base frame. (See Figure 7) After squaring up slats, tighten all the screws holding slats #16 and #17tothe beams.

ii ii

" H

q

LEVELING BASE FRAME

11.Usinga carpenter'slevel, leveltable aswell as possible. Itiseasier to do it now rather than after the slate is on frame. Determine the

highest corner of the fra me. Raiseother three corners to the level of the highestcorner by shimming underneath legs using playing card stock or grey leg shim stock (#47) shipped with this table. Cut this shim stock and place under legs (#20).

UNBOXING THE SLATE (Slate Tables Only)

ACAUTION

AFTER CRATE PARTS ARE REMOVED, BEND NAILS

OR STAPLES OVER WITH A HAMMER AT ONCE!

USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING CRATE PARTS!

12.It is now time to uncrate the slate pieces. With a claw hammer or crow bar, pry off crate top at the notched

corner. (See figure 7) BE CAREFUL NOT TO

DAMAGE SLATE INSIDE! SLATE IS BRITTLE AND CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIED AGAINST!

Remove the front rail of the crate. Slide the slate out the front of the crate. (Figure 7)

UNBOXING THE SLATRON (Slatron tables only.)

13.Iris nowtimeto unboxthe sIatron pieces. BE CAREFUL

NOT TO DAMAGE SLATRON INSIDE! SLATRON CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIED

AGAINST! (See Figure 8)

If the edges of your Slatron has"fuzz" on it, lightlysand to remove with sandpaper provided.

IMPORTANT!

The sheets of slatron may not be completely flat when removed from the shipping carton. This is normal. Once they have been placed on the table frame and securely fastened down, they will become straight and flat.

¢AUTION:

Be sure that the side of the

play surface with the _oles faces up.

16

17

DETERMINE THE TOP SIDE OF THE

PLAY SURFACE!

IMPORTANT: Be sure countersunk holes in all three table top sections #9 and # 10 face up: See Figure 10.NOTE: Slatron tables have "match" Iine markings like those shown above (letters A, B, C). Line up these lines when putting clown the statron sections.

14.Place center section #10 on the two tong slats #16. Center this piece on slats as welt as you can. Center section # 10 should overhang the ends of the slats by _/2" inch.Use a tape measure to be sure.

15.Put a pencil (or punch) into each countersunk hole in center section # 10 and ma rkslats below. Remove center

section # 10 and drill pilot holes in slats using a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats completelyof dust and wood chips.Any dirt and debris can causetable

17.Place end sections #9 onto slats. Be sure they are square, in line and butted up tight against center slate # 10.

18.Mark slats with a pencil through countersunk holes in end sections #9. Remove end sections and drill pilot holes with a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats completelyof dust and wood chips.Any dirt and debris willprevent end sections from aligning properly.

19.Place end sections #9 back on slats and secure using screws #39 (five screws per end section). NOTE: Be sure there are no gaps between end sections #9and slats. Run your finger across the two seams between centersection #10and end sections #9to checkfor any uneven areas. Sections should be even.

top sections to be uneven.

16.Place center section #10 back on slats and secure itto

long slats # 16 with six screws #39. Dry soap on screw threads will make this iob easier. CAUTION: When

driving screws through slatron sections, hold slatron down tight against the slats so they dofft ride up on the screws. NOTE: Be sure there are no gaps between centersection #10 a nd slats. If gaps exist, tighten screws more. However do not tighten screws so much that centersection begins to crushor crack.

You should not need shims to even up the table top sections #9 and # 1O,so ifthe sections do not align, firsttry loosening screws and brush out underneath to remove chips etc.. Then check under table to make sure there are no gaps between the table top sections and the slats. If gaps exist, tighten screws more. However, do not tighten screws so much that the sections begin to crush or crack. Top edges of seams must be precisely level and even with one another. If you need to use shims, read the shimming instructions on the following page.

SHIMMING INSTRUCTIONS

General Rules

Accomplish the leveling of slate with as few shims as possible.

Slate is brittle. Do not tap with a hammer or tiqhten screws unreasonable tight. You will not be abqe to

compress the slate. You must shim up the slate to level. Shims #38 are meant only to raise the low places at the seams and ends. Very sho4 and low places should be grouted. Do not assume the floor is level. Most leveling can be accomplished by working with the frame.

If power tools are used, be sure only enough torque is used to do the job.

Seams can best be checked by passinq your finger over the seam joint and feeling if it is flusB.

All screws must be tightened after shimming.

No two sets of slate a re exactly alike. Some sets require more, or less, shimming than others.

20. STEP BY STEP SHIMMING PROCEDURE

A)Be sure table is set in its final location.

B)Table must be as level as possible before shimming. Large

differences in levelness must be corrected by raising or lowering frame with shim stock.

DO NOT ASSUME FLOOR IS LEVEL!

C)Tighten clown all slate mounting screws.

D)Check with a carpenter's level to determine where slate is low on ends, and use finger tips to locate uneven spots at the seams. Loosen screws at these points and see if slate comes up to flush. If so, detach individual shims #38 from the sheet shipped with this table and place u nder these areas. Place shimsnext to screws.

(See Figure 11)

E)Lay a straight edge across seams to be sure slate pieces are flat in relation to each other.

21. GROUTING INSTRUCTIONS

A)Clean top of slate with a damp cloth. DO NOT USE TOO

MUCH WATER!

B)Prepare Plaster of Paris, furnished with this table. Add water sparingly. Do not mix all the powder at first; save some in case you need to thicken your initial mixture. To mix: Empty 1/3 to 1/2 of grout into container, slowly add drops of water while stirring. Grout should be a thick paste when mixed that will not drip off putty knife. Ifyou do get grout to thin, slowly add more powder.

c)Using a putty knife, fill both seams and the four countersunk

holes in the center playfield area. (Only the four countersunk holes in the center of the table needto befilled sincethe other

holes will be covered bythe rails.) Do not usemore plasterthan you need.

Top of playing surface must be flush at seams!

Place sh ms I

]=

near screws.

a

F)After top surface of slateisflat and level, all screwsmust

be snugged down in tight position. DO NOT OVER-

TIGHTEN SCREWS! SLATE IS BRITTLE! Check these screws before beginning grouting.

D)Let plaster dry. Read the rest of this manual while you wait!

E)Using a medium grit sandpaper and a sanding block, sand the plastered areas smooth and flat. RECHECK THESE

AREAS TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE FLAT. Re-plaster if you still find low places at countersunk holes or seams.

WARNING:

Applying the cloth

22.Make sure slate/slatron is dry and free of dust.

NOTE: Before spraying adhesive, cut a podion of the shipping cation to use as a shield to prevent cement overspray.

23.Place cloth over slate/slatron with equal overhang on all sides.

NOTE: Cloth may seem small but it will stretch a great deal.

24.Fold cloth away from end to expose slate/slatron for your first glue application. Apply contact cement to top surface in a band 4 inches wide on this end. (Seefigure 12) Coat edge also. Spray cement smoothly and evenly. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

25.Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, presscloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth

down and over edges.

26.Fold cloth away from side to expose slate/slatron for your second glue application. (Seefigure 13). Apply cement to the side in the same manner as your first glue application. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

27.Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, presscloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth

down and over edges.

28.Fold cloth away from other side to expose slate/slatron for your third glue application. (Seefigure 14). Apply cement to this side

in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

29.Stretch the cloth across the width and over the edge of the table.

STRETCH HARD ENOUGH TO TAKE OUT WRINKLES, BUT NOT SO HARD THAT THE CLOTH SLIPS.

30.Fold cloth away from other end to expose slate/slatron for your fourth glue application. (See figure 15) Apply cement to this end

in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

31.Make a final stretch along the length of and over the edge of the

Cut with scissors.

table, stretch hard enough to work out all wrinkles. (Seefigure 15) should cover If cloth is not smooth, lift andre-apply.NOTE: Rubbing fingers

lightly across cloth should not make cloth move.

32.Locate center of pocket opening. (See Detail Aand B)Using sharp scissors,make a straight cut. Next, cut to pocket edge to form pie

shapes. (See detail B)Divide these pie shapes in half. As you do,

the pie shapes beginto relaxto allow for placement. You may need to make additional cuts.

33.Spray adhesive on the underneath side of the slatearound pocket face to adhere the cloth. Make sure not to get overspray of glue on table. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

Stretchthe pie shapes down and under the pocket opening. Press the cloth against the cement on the underside of the slate/slatron.

Besureentire pieshape isfully attached to underneath side of table.

Application

First Glue ]

Spray glue on edge of slate too.

Application

Third Glue J

FIRST

STRETCH

Detail A

Detail B

|

identify the rails. Side caps must be installed before the rails are attached I

I This view is shown without side and corner caps installed to help to slate. Corner caps will be installed after area is established,

2

3

\ \

Slate

4'---4

4 --_-lb-

Look along the front edge of the side rails to be sure they align.

Side rails must be in a straight

line with each other,

! !

3

2

34, Attach side caps #7 to one side rail (either #2 or #3) as shown in figure 18. Usetwo nails #41 per side cap #7. Hold nails with needle nose pliers and tap them into plastic with a small hammer.

35, Attach side rails #2 and #3 to both sidesofthe slate using one screw #32 and two washers #43 at each mounting hole. Rails havepre-drilledstatler holes on their underneath side. (Seefigure 17)

Do not tighten screws tight yet. Follow the same procedure to attach end rails #4. NOTE: to help drive screws into rails, put a little dry soap on screwsthreads.

0

Side Rail

1#21

Side Rail

1#31

36,

37,

With all six rails loosely mounted in place, establish the

 

playfield area by measuring from the nose of the cushion

 

of any rail to the nose of the rail directly opposite.

 

Dimensions should be 44 inchesfrom side rail to side rail

 

and 88 inches from end rail to end rail. (Seefigure 17)

6

Measure each rail near pocket openings (on both ends).

Also look down the nose of the rails to assurethey are in line. NOW TIGHTEN RAIL MOUNTINGSCREWS

-#32.DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SCREWS, CAUSING THEM TO PULL THROUGH WASHER-#43.

Attach corner caps #6 to corner of table. (Seefigure 19)

Usetwo screws #25 per corner cap .

End Rail

1#41