Escalade Sports 2L-6540-00 User Manual

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OWNER'S

MANUAL

MODEL NO.

P9900

527.25203

READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY!

BALL RETURN KIT

Thank you for buying our product. We try hard to ensure that our products are of high quality and free of problems, such as manufacturing defects or missing parts. However, if you have any problems with your new product,

please DO NOT RETURN IT TO THE STORE!Call

Escalade Sports at:

TOLL FREE 1-800-426-1421

(THIS IS A CONSUMER ONLY NUMBER)

FAX: 812-467-1399

Or write us at:

CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT

P.O. Box 889, Evansville, IN 47706

Please provide model number, serial number, and/or part number of the product and/or part when you call or write. These numbers can be found on the product, packaging, and/or in this Owner’s Manual.

If you are doing a new installation refer to the following instructions. Use the hardware identifier that came in your table. For replacement parts for your table see the Parts List that came in your table. For replacement parts for your ball return see the following.

If you are doing a retrofit on an already assembled Lexington Pool Table.

1.Remove side aprons.

2.Remove drop pockets.

3.Determine which end of the beams are predrilled for ball return tray. See Figure 22.

4.Perform steps 47 through 49 in this manual.

5.Perform steps 53 through 61 in this manual.

6.Perform steps 65 through 67 in this manual.

#

PART#

DESCRIPTION

QTY.

 

 

 

 

21

2B-6016-00

1/4-20LOCKNUT

2

22

801-9B

1/4-20WASHER

2

25

801-54B

3/4 x 16 GA NAIL

30

37

801-4

#8 x 5/8 WASH HD SCREW

8

100

7P-6033-00

DOUBLE BACK TAPE

1

101

710-54

U-CLIP

2

102

701-166

1/4-20x 3 HH BOLT

2

103

8S-6205-01

SUPPORT TUBE

1

104

3M-6139-00

BALL TRAY

1

105

3M-6140-00

BALL SCOOP

2

106

823-105L

HD LFT CORNER POCKET

1

107

823-105R

HD Right Corner Pocket

1

108

823-114L

Side Left Pocket

1

109

823-114R

Side Right Pocket

1

110

823-106

FT Corner Left Pocket

1

111

823-107

FT Corner Right Pocket

1

112

826-50U

Ball Return Tube

4

 

 

 

 

2L-6540-00

IMPORTANT! READTHISMANUALALL

THEWAYTHROUGHBEFOREBEGINNING

TOPUTYOURPOOLTABLETOGETHER!

THENREADEACHSTEPBEFORE

STARTINGTHATSTEP.

ToolsNeeded:

! Hammer (Claw Type)

! Putty Knife

! 3/8" Open End Wrench

! Needle Nose Pliers

! Tape Measure

! Hammer (Small Ball Peen Type)

! 7/16" Open End Wrench

! Sanding Block

! Carpenter's level or 36'' Straight Edge

! Standard Screwdriver

! Awl or 8d Nail

! ½" Open End Wrench

! Phillips Screwdriver

! Scissors or Sharp Knife

! Hairdryer

!Power Screwdriver (optional but very helpful)

!In addition to the assembly tools listed above, it would be useful to have a rachet with 3/8, 7/16 and ½ socket.

NOTE: Rails are made with cushion rubber at a height that requires standard 2 ¼" diameter balls. Your dealer has a complete line of Billiard Accessories.

NOTE: This table adds weight to any floor. Be sure floor can withstand this kind of weight. If floor sags, table will be impossible to level.

THE SPRAY ADHESIVE USED FOR APPLYING PLAYFIELD CLOTH IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND UNDER PRESSURE! CAREFULLY READ CAUTIONS ON SPRAY ADHESIVE CONTAINER! KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN! DO NOT USE OR STORE NEAR HEAT SOURCE, FLAMES, SPARKS OR WHEN SMOKING! WORK AREA MUST BE WELL VENTILATED. OPEN DOORS AND WINDOWS WHEN USING SPRAY ADHESIVE.

2

Figure 1

1.

Open hardware kits and sort

 

 

hardware into "like" groups using

 

 

hardware identifier provided in

 

 

your table manual. CAUTION:

 

 

Some steel parts may have

 

 

sharp edges.

 

2.

Attach two wooden leg panels #2

 

 

(be sure wood grain faces out) to

 

 

the inside of two leg facades #1

 

 

using six screws #33, six washers

 

 

#35 and six locknuts #34 per leg

 

 

panel. Make sure that dimension

 

 

B is at the bottom of the leg panel.

 

 

(See Figure 1)

 

 

NOTE: Leave all four bottom

 

 

screws #33 loose until the leg

 

 

post #3 is installed. Leg post

 

 

#3 CANNOT be attached if

 

 

the four bottom screws #33 are

 

 

tight. Tighten finger tight only.

 

3.

Repeat step 2 to put together other

 

 

leg assembly.

4a. Attach leg posts #3 to the inside face of metal leg facades #1 on both leg assemblies (from steps 1 & 2). Use two carriage bolts #30, two washers #22 and two locknuts #21 per leg post.

NOTE: There is a set of holes at one end of the leg posts that are grouped close together. Make sure that these holes go to the top of the wooden posts. About 1/8 inch of leg posts #3 will extend below the metal facade #1. (Figure 2)

4b.Once the leg post is securely fastened, tighten the four bottom screws #33 on the leg panels.

This set of holes grouped close together goes toward the top.

1

1

3

30

33 22

21

1/8'

33

Figure 2

3

40

All Washers

 

#23

3

 

 

27

#23

 

1

All locknuts

4

#26

 

WARNING:

Holes marked by arrows MUST be on theTOP when attached to the legs!

4

4

Figure 3

5.Before starting this part of the assembly, orient beam #4 with ball return attachment holes at the same end of the table and the holes marked by arrows in figure 3 facing up.

6.Attach wooden beams #4 to the leg assemblies (that you just put together). Use two long bolts #27, two short bolts #40, six washers #23 and four locknuts #26 as shown.

NOTE: The two longer bolts #27 go through top and bottom mounting holes in beam #4, metal facade #1 and leg post #3. These bolts require a washer between the bolt and beam #4 as well as between leg post #3 and the locknut.

NOTE: The two shorter bolts #40 go through the other two mounting holes in beam #4 and metal facade #1. They only require a washer between the bolt and beam #4.

CAUTION:

These holes are for ball return attachment. Be sure both beams #4 have these holes at same end of table

4

Figure 4

4

24

6

24

4

39

 

5

 

 

 

24

6

24

Detail A

 

 

 

 

39

 

39

 

 

39

 

 

NOTE: Screwheads must

Countersink

 

goes up.

 

be flush or below the top of

 

the slats #5 and #6.

 

7.Place slats #5 and #6 across beams #4 as shown in figure 4. Make sure the two shorter slats #5 go on the ends of the beams and that the two longer slats #6 go in the center as shown. The side of the slats with the countersink around each hole faces up. (See detail A).

8.Insert four dowel connectors #39 into the holes in side of beams #4 just below the slats. Note that the slot in the end of dowel connectors should be vertical. (See Figure 4 and Detail A). Start screws #24 the dowel connectors by hand until you are sure threads are engaged properly. Do not force them with power tools. Do not tighten screws completely yet.

9.Square up long slats #6 by measuring diagonally as shown in figure 5. Diagonals should be the same length within 1/8". Check to make sure the table is square. If frame is not square, the adjustment can be made by moving table beams #4 in opposite directions. Usually only a slight adjustment if any should be required.

10.Once frame is square, tighten screws #24 holding slats to beams. Be sure the heads of screws #24 are flush with or below the top of the slats.

4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

SAME

6

 

 

 

 

DIMENSION

 

 

 

 

 

(within 1/8")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Figure 5

4

5

LEVELING BASE FRAME

11.Use a carpenter's level to level table as close as possible. It is easier to do it now rather than after the playfield has been attached to the frame.

12.Determine the highest corner of the frame by placing the level in following two ways:

!Check frame from end to end as shown in figure 6.

!Then check the table diagonally as shown in fig. 7.

13.Once you have determined the highest corner, raise other three corners by shimming. To do this place one shim at a time under the lower corners until the table is level. Leg shim stock is provided in the slatron bed kit and must be cut to the desired size. Shims must be placed directly under leg post.

Figure 6

Figure 7

6

UNBOXING THE SLATE

CAUTION

AFTER CRATE PARTS ARE REMOVED, BEND NAILS OR STAPLES OVER WITH

A HAMMER AT ONCE! USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING CRATE PARTS!

 

 

14.It is now time to uncrate the slate pieces. With a claw hammer or crow bar, pry off crate top at the notched corner. (See figure 8) BE CAREFUL NOT TO

DAMAGE SLATE INSIDE! SLATE IS BRITTLE AND CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIED AGAINST!

15.Remove the front rail of the crate. Slide the slate out the front of the crate. (Figure 9)

Figure 9

UNBOXING THE SLATRON

16.It is now time to unbox the slatron pieces.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE SLATRONINSIDE! SLATRONCAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIEDAGAINST! (See Figure 10)

If the edges of your Slatron has "fuzz" on it, lightly sand to remove with sandpaper provided in kit No. 5A-6191-00.

Figure 8

Figure 10

CAUTION

The sheets of slatron may not be completely flat when removed from the shipping carton. This is normal. Once they have been placed on the table frame and securely fastened down, they will become straight and flat.

7

THE FOLLOWING STEP REQUIRES THE HELP OF ANOTHER ADULT!

Detail A

 

 

 

38

 

 

38

 

7

38

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

38

38

 

 

38

38

 

38

 

8

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

7

 

38

 

5

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

 

6

 

 

5

Match Line Markings

(Slatron Tables Only)

Figure 11

CAUTION: Be sure countersunk holes in all three table top sections #7 and #8 face up: See Detail "A", Figure 11.NOTE: Slatron tables have "match" line markings like those shown above (or letters A, B, C). Line up these lines or letters when putting down the slatron sections.

17.Place center section #8 on the two long slats #6. Center this piece on slats as well as you can. Center section #8 should overhang the ends of the slats by ½" inch. Use a tape measure to be sure.

18.Put a pencil (or punch) into each countersunk hole in center section #8 and mark slats below. Remove center section #8 and drill pilot holes in slats using a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats completely of dust and wood chips.Anydirtanddebriscancausetabletopsections to be uneven.

19.Place center section #8 back on slats and secure it to long slats #6 with six screws #38. Dry soap on screw threads will make this job easier. CAUTION: When driving screws through slatron sections, hold slatron down tight against the slats so they don't ride up on the screws.

NOTE: Be sure there are no gaps between center section #8 and slats. If gaps exist, tighten screws more. However do not tighten screws so much that center section begins to crush or crack.

8

20.Place end sections #7 onto slats. Be sure they are square, in line and butted up tight against center slate #8.

21.Mark slats with a pencil through countersunk holes in end sections #7. Remove end sections and drill pilot holes with a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats completely of dust and wood chips. Any dirt and debris will prevent end sections from aligning properly.

22.Place end sections #7 back on slats and secure using screws #38 (five screws per end section). NOTE: Be sure there are no gaps between end sections #7 and slats.Runyourfingeracrossthetwoseamsbetween center section #8 and end sections #7 to check for any uneven areas. Sections should be even.

You should not need shims to even up the table top sections #7 and #8, so if the sections do not align, first try loosening screws and brush out underneath to remove chips etc.. Then check under table to make sure there are no gaps between the table top sections and the slats. If gaps exist, tighten screws more. However, do not tighten screws so much that the sections begin to crush or crack. Top edges of seams must be precisely level and even with one another. If you need to use shims, read the shimming instructions on the following page.

SHIMMINGINSTRUCTIONSIFREQUIRED

General Rules

!Accomplish the leveling of the playing surface with as few shims as possible.

!Do not tap with a hammer or tighten screws unreasonably tight. You will not be able to compress the playing surface. You must shim up the playing surface to level. Shims are meant only to raise the low places at the seams and ends. Very short and low places should be filled with grout. Do not assume the floor is level. Most leveling can be accomplished by working with the frame.

!If using power tools be sure to use only enough torque to reasonably tighten screws.

!Seams can best be checked by passing your finger over the seam and feeling if it is flush.

!All screws must be tightened after shimming.

Figure 12

Top of playing surface must be flush at seams!

shim

STEPBYSTEPSHIMMING

23.Be sure table is set in its final location.

24.Table must be as level as possible before shimming. Large differencesinlevelnessmustbecorrectedbyraisingor lowering frame with shim stock.

DO NOT ASSUME FLOOR IS LEVEL!

25.Tighten down all the playing surface mounting screws.

26.Check with a carpenter's level to determine where slate is low on ends, and use finger tips to locate uneven spots at the seams. Loosen screws at these points and see if slate comes up to flush. If so detach individual shims from the sheet shipped with this table and place under these areas.

Place shims next to screws.

27.Lay a straight edge across seams to be sure slate pieces are at the same height.

28.After top surface of slate is flat and level all screws must be snugged down tight. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SCREWS! Check these screws before proceeding to the next step.

29.Minor differences can be filled with grout.

GROUTINGINSTRUCTIONS

30.Clean top sections with a damp cloth. DO NOT USE TOO MUCH WATER. Allow enough time for top sections to dry thoroughly before starting the next step.

31.A small container of grout has been provided for filling small imperfections in the table seams and countersinks. Using a putty knife, fill both seams and the four countersunk holes in the center playfield area (all other countersunk holes in slate will be covered by the rails). Do not use more grout than is necessary. Spread grout smoothly and evenly.

32.Allow grout to cure before starting the next step.

33.Using a medium grit sandpaper and a sanding block, lightly sand the filled areas smooth and flat. USE A

STRAIGHT EDGE TO CHECK THAT THESE AREAS ARE FLAT. Apply grout again if you find low places at countersunk holes or seams.

9

DO NOT SMOKE WHILE WORKING WITH CONTACT CEMENT! READ LABEL ON CEMENT CONTAINER CAREFULLY!

Applying the cloth

34.Make sure slate/slatron is dry and free of dust.

NOTE: Before spraying adhesive, cut a portion of the shipping carton to use as a shield to prevent cement overspray.

35.Place cloth over slate/slatron with equal overhang on all sides.

NOTE: Cloth may seem small but it will stretch a great deal.

36.Fold cloth away from end to expose slate/slatron for your first glue application. Apply contact cement to top surface in a band 4 inches wide on this end. (See figure 13) Coat edge also. Spray cement smoothly and evenly. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

37.Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, press cloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth down and over edges.

38.Fold cloth away from side to expose slate/slatron for your second glue application. (See figure 14). Apply cement to the side in the same manner as your first glue application. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

39.Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, press cloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth down and over edges.

26.Fold cloth away from other side to expose slate/slatron for your third glue application. (See figure 15). Apply cement to this side in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

40.Stretch the cloth across the width and over the edge of the table.

STRETCHHARDENOUGHTOTAKEOUTWRINKLES, BUT NOT SO HARD THAT THE CLOTH SLIPS.

41.Fold cloth away from other end to expose slate/slatron for your fourth glue application. (See figure 16) Apply cement to this end in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

42.Make a final stretch along the length of and over the edge of the table, stretch hard enough to work out all wrinkles. (See figure 17) If cloth is not smooth, lift and re-apply.NOTE: Rubbing fingers lightly across cloth should not make cloth move.

43.Locate center of pocket opening. (See Detail A and B) Using sharp scissors, make a straight cut. Next, cut to pocket edge to form pie shapes. (See detail B) Divide these pie shapes in half. As you do, the pie shapes begin to relax to allow for placement. You may need to make additional cuts.

44.Spray adhesive on the underneath side of the slate around pocket face to adhere the cloth. Make sure not to get overspray of glue on table. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute. Stretch the pie shapes down and under the pocket opening. Press the cloth against the cement on the underside of the slate/slatron. Be sure entire pie shape is fully attached to underneath side of table.

Figure 13

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

Figure 17

Detail A

Detail B

10