Escalade Sports 2L-6540-00 User Manual

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OWNER'S

MANUAL

MODEL NO.

P9900

527.25203

READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY!

BALL RETURN KIT

Thank you for buying our product. We try hard to ensure that our products are of high quality and free of problems, such as manufacturing defects or missing parts. However, if you have any problems with your new product,

please DO NOT RETURN IT TO THE STORE!Call

Escalade Sports at:

TOLL FREE 1-800-426-1421

(THIS IS A CONSUMER ONLY NUMBER)

FAX: 812-467-1399

Or write us at:

CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT

P.O. Box 889, Evansville, IN 47706

Please provide model number, serial number, and/or part number of the product and/or part when you call or write. These numbers can be found on the product, packaging, and/or in this Owner’s Manual.

If you are doing a new installation refer to the following instructions. Use the hardware identifier that came in your table. For replacement parts for your table see the Parts List that came in your table. For replacement parts for your ball return see the following.

If you are doing a retrofit on an already assembled Lexington Pool Table.

1.Remove side aprons.

2.Remove drop pockets.

3.Determine which end of the beams are predrilled for ball return tray. See Figure 22.

4.Perform steps 47 through 49 in this manual.

5.Perform steps 53 through 61 in this manual.

6.Perform steps 65 through 67 in this manual.

#

PART#

DESCRIPTION

QTY.

 

 

 

 

21

2B-6016-00

1/4-20LOCKNUT

2

22

801-9B

1/4-20WASHER

2

25

801-54B

3/4 x 16 GA NAIL

30

37

801-4

#8 x 5/8 WASH HD SCREW

8

100

7P-6033-00

DOUBLE BACK TAPE

1

101

710-54

U-CLIP

2

102

701-166

1/4-20x 3 HH BOLT

2

103

8S-6205-01

SUPPORT TUBE

1

104

3M-6139-00

BALL TRAY

1

105

3M-6140-00

BALL SCOOP

2

106

823-105L

HD LFT CORNER POCKET

1

107

823-105R

HD Right Corner Pocket

1

108

823-114L

Side Left Pocket

1

109

823-114R

Side Right Pocket

1

110

823-106

FT Corner Left Pocket

1

111

823-107

FT Corner Right Pocket

1

112

826-50U

Ball Return Tube

4

 

 

 

 

2L-6540-00

IMPORTANT! READTHISMANUALALL

THEWAYTHROUGHBEFOREBEGINNING

TOPUTYOURPOOLTABLETOGETHER!

THENREADEACHSTEPBEFORE

STARTINGTHATSTEP.

ToolsNeeded:

! Hammer (Claw Type)

! Putty Knife

! 3/8" Open End Wrench

! Needle Nose Pliers

! Tape Measure

! Hammer (Small Ball Peen Type)

! 7/16" Open End Wrench

! Sanding Block

! Carpenter's level or 36'' Straight Edge

! Standard Screwdriver

! Awl or 8d Nail

! ½" Open End Wrench

! Phillips Screwdriver

! Scissors or Sharp Knife

! Hairdryer

!Power Screwdriver (optional but very helpful)

!In addition to the assembly tools listed above, it would be useful to have a rachet with 3/8, 7/16 and ½ socket.

NOTE: Rails are made with cushion rubber at a height that requires standard 2 ¼" diameter balls. Your dealer has a complete line of Billiard Accessories.

NOTE: This table adds weight to any floor. Be sure floor can withstand this kind of weight. If floor sags, table will be impossible to level.

THE SPRAY ADHESIVE USED FOR APPLYING PLAYFIELD CLOTH IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND UNDER PRESSURE! CAREFULLY READ CAUTIONS ON SPRAY ADHESIVE CONTAINER! KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN! DO NOT USE OR STORE NEAR HEAT SOURCE, FLAMES, SPARKS OR WHEN SMOKING! WORK AREA MUST BE WELL VENTILATED. OPEN DOORS AND WINDOWS WHEN USING SPRAY ADHESIVE.

2

Figure 1

1.

Open hardware kits and sort

 

 

hardware into "like" groups using

 

 

hardware identifier provided in

 

 

your table manual. CAUTION:

 

 

Some steel parts may have

 

 

sharp edges.

 

2.

Attach two wooden leg panels #2

 

 

(be sure wood grain faces out) to

 

 

the inside of two leg facades #1

 

 

using six screws #33, six washers

 

 

#35 and six locknuts #34 per leg

 

 

panel. Make sure that dimension

 

 

B is at the bottom of the leg panel.

 

 

(See Figure 1)

 

 

NOTE: Leave all four bottom

 

 

screws #33 loose until the leg

 

 

post #3 is installed. Leg post

 

 

#3 CANNOT be attached if

 

 

the four bottom screws #33 are

 

 

tight. Tighten finger tight only.

 

3.

Repeat step 2 to put together other

 

 

leg assembly.

4a. Attach leg posts #3 to the inside face of metal leg facades #1 on both leg assemblies (from steps 1 & 2). Use two carriage bolts #30, two washers #22 and two locknuts #21 per leg post.

NOTE: There is a set of holes at one end of the leg posts that are grouped close together. Make sure that these holes go to the top of the wooden posts. About 1/8 inch of leg posts #3 will extend below the metal facade #1. (Figure 2)

4b.Once the leg post is securely fastened, tighten the four bottom screws #33 on the leg panels.

This set of holes grouped close together goes toward the top.

1

1

3

30

33 22

21

1/8'

33

Figure 2

3

40

All Washers

 

#23

3

 

 

27

#23

 

1

All locknuts

4

#26

 

WARNING:

Holes marked by arrows MUST be on theTOP when attached to the legs!

4

4

Figure 3

5.Before starting this part of the assembly, orient beam #4 with ball return attachment holes at the same end of the table and the holes marked by arrows in figure 3 facing up.

6.Attach wooden beams #4 to the leg assemblies (that you just put together). Use two long bolts #27, two short bolts #40, six washers #23 and four locknuts #26 as shown.

NOTE: The two longer bolts #27 go through top and bottom mounting holes in beam #4, metal facade #1 and leg post #3. These bolts require a washer between the bolt and beam #4 as well as between leg post #3 and the locknut.

NOTE: The two shorter bolts #40 go through the other two mounting holes in beam #4 and metal facade #1. They only require a washer between the bolt and beam #4.

CAUTION:

These holes are for ball return attachment. Be sure both beams #4 have these holes at same end of table

4

Figure 4

4

24

6

24

4

39

 

5

 

 

 

24

6

24

Detail A

 

 

 

 

39

 

39

 

 

39

 

 

NOTE: Screwheads must

Countersink

 

goes up.

 

be flush or below the top of

 

the slats #5 and #6.

 

7.Place slats #5 and #6 across beams #4 as shown in figure 4. Make sure the two shorter slats #5 go on the ends of the beams and that the two longer slats #6 go in the center as shown. The side of the slats with the countersink around each hole faces up. (See detail A).

8.Insert four dowel connectors #39 into the holes in side of beams #4 just below the slats. Note that the slot in the end of dowel connectors should be vertical. (See Figure 4 and Detail A). Start screws #24 the dowel connectors by hand until you are sure threads are engaged properly. Do not force them with power tools. Do not tighten screws completely yet.

9.Square up long slats #6 by measuring diagonally as shown in figure 5. Diagonals should be the same length within 1/8". Check to make sure the table is square. If frame is not square, the adjustment can be made by moving table beams #4 in opposite directions. Usually only a slight adjustment if any should be required.

10.Once frame is square, tighten screws #24 holding slats to beams. Be sure the heads of screws #24 are flush with or below the top of the slats.

4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

SAME

6

 

 

 

 

DIMENSION

 

 

 

 

 

(within 1/8")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Figure 5

4

5

LEVELING BASE FRAME

11.Use a carpenter's level to level table as close as possible. It is easier to do it now rather than after the playfield has been attached to the frame.

12.Determine the highest corner of the frame by placing the level in following two ways:

!Check frame from end to end as shown in figure 6.

!Then check the table diagonally as shown in fig. 7.

13.Once you have determined the highest corner, raise other three corners by shimming. To do this place one shim at a time under the lower corners until the table is level. Leg shim stock is provided in the slatron bed kit and must be cut to the desired size. Shims must be placed directly under leg post.

Figure 6

Figure 7

6

UNBOXING THE SLATE

CAUTION

AFTER CRATE PARTS ARE REMOVED, BEND NAILS OR STAPLES OVER WITH

A HAMMER AT ONCE! USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING CRATE PARTS!

 

 

14.It is now time to uncrate the slate pieces. With a claw hammer or crow bar, pry off crate top at the notched corner. (See figure 8) BE CAREFUL NOT TO

DAMAGE SLATE INSIDE! SLATE IS BRITTLE AND CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIED AGAINST!

15.Remove the front rail of the crate. Slide the slate out the front of the crate. (Figure 9)

Figure 9

UNBOXING THE SLATRON

16.It is now time to unbox the slatron pieces.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE SLATRONINSIDE! SLATRONCAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIEDAGAINST! (See Figure 10)

If the edges of your Slatron has "fuzz" on it, lightly sand to remove with sandpaper provided in kit No. 5A-6191-00.

Figure 8

Figure 10

CAUTION

The sheets of slatron may not be completely flat when removed from the shipping carton. This is normal. Once they have been placed on the table frame and securely fastened down, they will become straight and flat.

7

THE FOLLOWING STEP REQUIRES THE HELP OF ANOTHER ADULT!

Detail A

 

 

 

38

 

 

38

 

7

38

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

38

38

 

 

38

38

 

38

 

8

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

7

 

38

 

5

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

 

 

38

 

 

 

 

 

6

 

 

5

Match Line Markings

(Slatron Tables Only)

Figure 11

CAUTION: Be sure countersunk holes in all three table top sections #7 and #8 face up: See Detail "A", Figure 11.NOTE: Slatron tables have "match" line markings like those shown above (or letters A, B, C). Line up these lines or letters when putting down the slatron sections.

17.Place center section #8 on the two long slats #6. Center this piece on slats as well as you can. Center section #8 should overhang the ends of the slats by ½" inch. Use a tape measure to be sure.

18.Put a pencil (or punch) into each countersunk hole in center section #8 and mark slats below. Remove center section #8 and drill pilot holes in slats using a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats completely of dust and wood chips.Anydirtanddebriscancausetabletopsections to be uneven.

19.Place center section #8 back on slats and secure it to long slats #6 with six screws #38. Dry soap on screw threads will make this job easier. CAUTION: When driving screws through slatron sections, hold slatron down tight against the slats so they don't ride up on the screws.

NOTE: Be sure there are no gaps between center section #8 and slats. If gaps exist, tighten screws more. However do not tighten screws so much that center section begins to crush or crack.

8

20.Place end sections #7 onto slats. Be sure they are square, in line and butted up tight against center slate #8.

21.Mark slats with a pencil through countersunk holes in end sections #7. Remove end sections and drill pilot holes with a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats completely of dust and wood chips. Any dirt and debris will prevent end sections from aligning properly.

22.Place end sections #7 back on slats and secure using screws #38 (five screws per end section). NOTE: Be sure there are no gaps between end sections #7 and slats.Runyourfingeracrossthetwoseamsbetween center section #8 and end sections #7 to check for any uneven areas. Sections should be even.

You should not need shims to even up the table top sections #7 and #8, so if the sections do not align, first try loosening screws and brush out underneath to remove chips etc.. Then check under table to make sure there are no gaps between the table top sections and the slats. If gaps exist, tighten screws more. However, do not tighten screws so much that the sections begin to crush or crack. Top edges of seams must be precisely level and even with one another. If you need to use shims, read the shimming instructions on the following page.

SHIMMINGINSTRUCTIONSIFREQUIRED

General Rules

!Accomplish the leveling of the playing surface with as few shims as possible.

!Do not tap with a hammer or tighten screws unreasonably tight. You will not be able to compress the playing surface. You must shim up the playing surface to level. Shims are meant only to raise the low places at the seams and ends. Very short and low places should be filled with grout. Do not assume the floor is level. Most leveling can be accomplished by working with the frame.

!If using power tools be sure to use only enough torque to reasonably tighten screws.

!Seams can best be checked by passing your finger over the seam and feeling if it is flush.

!All screws must be tightened after shimming.

Figure 12

Top of playing surface must be flush at seams!

shim

STEPBYSTEPSHIMMING

23.Be sure table is set in its final location.

24.Table must be as level as possible before shimming. Large differencesinlevelnessmustbecorrectedbyraisingor lowering frame with shim stock.

DO NOT ASSUME FLOOR IS LEVEL!

25.Tighten down all the playing surface mounting screws.

26.Check with a carpenter's level to determine where slate is low on ends, and use finger tips to locate uneven spots at the seams. Loosen screws at these points and see if slate comes up to flush. If so detach individual shims from the sheet shipped with this table and place under these areas.

Place shims next to screws.

27.Lay a straight edge across seams to be sure slate pieces are at the same height.

28.After top surface of slate is flat and level all screws must be snugged down tight. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SCREWS! Check these screws before proceeding to the next step.

29.Minor differences can be filled with grout.

GROUTINGINSTRUCTIONS

30.Clean top sections with a damp cloth. DO NOT USE TOO MUCH WATER. Allow enough time for top sections to dry thoroughly before starting the next step.

31.A small container of grout has been provided for filling small imperfections in the table seams and countersinks. Using a putty knife, fill both seams and the four countersunk holes in the center playfield area (all other countersunk holes in slate will be covered by the rails). Do not use more grout than is necessary. Spread grout smoothly and evenly.

32.Allow grout to cure before starting the next step.

33.Using a medium grit sandpaper and a sanding block, lightly sand the filled areas smooth and flat. USE A

STRAIGHT EDGE TO CHECK THAT THESE AREAS ARE FLAT. Apply grout again if you find low places at countersunk holes or seams.

9

DO NOT SMOKE WHILE WORKING WITH CONTACT CEMENT! READ LABEL ON CEMENT CONTAINER CAREFULLY!

Applying the cloth

34.Make sure slate/slatron is dry and free of dust.

NOTE: Before spraying adhesive, cut a portion of the shipping carton to use as a shield to prevent cement overspray.

35.Place cloth over slate/slatron with equal overhang on all sides.

NOTE: Cloth may seem small but it will stretch a great deal.

36.Fold cloth away from end to expose slate/slatron for your first glue application. Apply contact cement to top surface in a band 4 inches wide on this end. (See figure 13) Coat edge also. Spray cement smoothly and evenly. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

37.Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, press cloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth down and over edges.

38.Fold cloth away from side to expose slate/slatron for your second glue application. (See figure 14). Apply cement to the side in the same manner as your first glue application. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

39.Fold cloth back over the table. With firm even pressure, press cloth onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth down and over edges.

26.Fold cloth away from other side to expose slate/slatron for your third glue application. (See figure 15). Apply cement to this side in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

40.Stretch the cloth across the width and over the edge of the table.

STRETCHHARDENOUGHTOTAKEOUTWRINKLES, BUT NOT SO HARD THAT THE CLOTH SLIPS.

41.Fold cloth away from other end to expose slate/slatron for your fourth glue application. (See figure 16) Apply cement to this end in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute.

42.Make a final stretch along the length of and over the edge of the table, stretch hard enough to work out all wrinkles. (See figure 17) If cloth is not smooth, lift and re-apply.NOTE: Rubbing fingers lightly across cloth should not make cloth move.

43.Locate center of pocket opening. (See Detail A and B) Using sharp scissors, make a straight cut. Next, cut to pocket edge to form pie shapes. (See detail B) Divide these pie shapes in half. As you do, the pie shapes begin to relax to allow for placement. You may need to make additional cuts.

44.Spray adhesive on the underneath side of the slate around pocket face to adhere the cloth. Make sure not to get overspray of glue on table. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least one minute. Stretch the pie shapes down and under the pocket opening. Press the cloth against the cement on the underside of the slate/slatron. Be sure entire pie shape is fully attached to underneath side of table.

Figure 13

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

Figure 17

Detail A

Detail B

10

 

Figure 18

 

 

 

 

 

11

12

10

 

10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12

 

11

 

 

20

19

28

28

 

20

 

19

28

20

 

19

19

 

19

19

 

 

Using a small sharp knife cut a small X over the large holes between the pockets that do

not already have screws in them.

Detail A

Slotted hole will be used to attach aprons later

Detail B

45.Find the three ¾ inch holes in the playing surface that are between each pocket. Using a small sharp knife, cut a small cross in cloth over each hole for the rail bolts #19 to pass through. (See Figure 18, Detail A)

IMPORTANT: See top rail identifier below before placing top rails on table.

46.Place rails in position on the playing surface and attach by using rail bolts #19, washers #20 and brackets #28.

Note: See Detail "B" for correct orientation of apron bracket. The bolts that hold brackets #28 need to only be finger tight. (See Figure 18, Detail C)

IMPORTANT NOTE: Use apron brackets #28 on thetwo outside holes on each end rail #12 . Use apron brackets #28 onthe middle hole of each side rail #10 and #11 (See Figure 18, Detail B).

Top Rail Identifier

Figure 19

11

47. After all top rails are "loosely" attached to play-

corner pocket radius edges line up.

field, straighten the side rails (#10 and #11) on one side

50. Check that the end to end playfield measurement is

of the table as follows:

 

approximately 88". Lightly tap rails where adjustment is

Look down the edge of the rails while standing at the

needed. Tighten all bolts holding end rails EX-

end of the table. Rails #10 and #11 must be straight and

CEPT the bolts with apron brackets #28. Hold rails

in line. Lay a straight edge at the side pocket position of

until bolts are tight.

rails #10 and #11 to confirm. Also check that the side

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

pocket radius edges align. Tighten hardware holding

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

rails #10 and #11 now. Do not tighten the bolts with

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

apron brackets. Leave them loose until after aprons

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

have been attached. Hold rails until bolts are tight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

48. Measure across the playfield to the opposite side rails

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and establish an approximate 44" playfield measure-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ment (bumper to bumper). These measuring points are

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

shown below. Tighten these rails now. Do not

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

tighten bolts with apron brackets. Hold rails until

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bolts are tight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

49. Square an end rail as well as you can. Check that the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Figure 20

12

Figure 21

51.There are six (6) pockets. Each pocket is different and must be placed in its designated spot.

Pockets can be installed only by placing them under top rail opening and working themup through the opening. Read instructions and follow carefully.

Install "shallow," "single opening"right hand and left hand corner head pockets first. (See figure 21)Install right hand and left hand "straight through"side pockets next. Install "deep"right hand and left hand ball return foot pockets last. (See figure 21 and Detail A) NOTE: Do not nail pockets in place yet.

Detail A

52. Open hardware kit marked5A-6192-01.Sort hardware. Attach the ball tray support #103 using two bolts #102 (1 per side), two washers #22 (1 per side) and two hex nuts #21 (1 per side). Place bolts through the ball tray support #103 and into pre-

drilled holes in beam #4 as shown in figure 22. Figure 22 Secure with washers #22 and nuts #21 as shown in

figure 22.

NOTE: DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS YET. Wait until the ball tray is installed later in this manual.

53. Secure the two ball scoops #105(one to each of the beams #4) using two screws #37 per ball scoop. Pilot holes are provided for these screws.

(See Figure 23)

Figure 23

13

IMPORTANT:Makesurethatthefinishedsideisfacingouton all aprons!

54.Push the end apron #13 up into the groove in the bottom of the end rail and center it as well as possible. Secure end aprons #13 to the two apron brackets #28 that were used to attach the rails and tighten. Do this using screws #33, washer #35, and locknut #34. Do not overtighten screws, pulling them through apron.

55.While still pushing the end apron #13 up into the groove in the bottom of the end rail, center end apron as well as possible and tighten the bolts #19 that were put in to attach end rail and brackets #28 to playfield (Reference Detail B, Figure 18).

56.Attach one corner post #45 with screws #37 in the top and bottom holes to each end of the end aprons #13.

Note: The middle hole for corner posts #45 has not been predrilled. Makeastarterholeusingasmallfinishingnailoran awl, tapping lightly with a hammer. This hole does not need to be very deep. Do not use a power screwdriver on these screws becausescrewdrivermayslipoffthescrewandscratchthefinish on the corner posts.

Figure 24

Figure20

57. Peel paper off one side of double back tape#100 and place the four strips along the top edge of support tube #103.

58. Remove paper from other side of double back tape #100 and push ball tray #104 onto support tube #103 (tube slides into groove in tray) as shown in figure 25.

Figure 25

59. Pullthe traysupport tubeupwardtowardthe bottom edgeof theapron.

60. AttachU-clips#101 to beams as shown on both sides of the table. Use two screws #37 perU-clip.

61. Adjust the height of the tray support tube so that a pool ball is able to pass just below the bottom edge of the end apron and drop intothe tray.

62.Tighten the bolts and U-clipscrews to hold the tray support tube in position.

Figure 26

14

63.Withtheaidofahelper,slidethesideapronsupand behindthecorner post and line up the starter holes in the side aprons with the top and bottom holes in the corner post. Attach the side aprons #14 to the corner post #45 with two screws #37. Screws go in the top hole and bottom holes in the corner post #45 and the top and bottom starter holes in the side apron #14.

64.Attach the side aprons to the apron brackets #28 using two screws #33, washers #35 and locknuts #34. Do not overtighten these screws.

65.While still pushing the side apron up into the grooves in the bottom of the side rails, tighten the top rail bolts #19 that were put in earlier in step 55 (Reference Detail B, Figure 18).

66.Place one screw #37 in the middle hole on the corner post. The middle hole for corner posts #45 has not been predrilled.

Make a starter hole using a small finishing nail or an awl,

 

tapping lightly with a hammer. This hole does not

 

need to be very deep. Do not use a power

 

screwdriveronthesescrewsbecause

 

screwdrivermayslipoffthescrew

 

andscratchthefinishonthe

46

cornerposts.

36

 

 

16

13

 

Figure 27

67.Attach corner caps #16 and side caps #15 to the edges of each of the pockets using screws #36. (Figure 27) The holes for these caps have not been predrilled. Do this by placing corner cap on the corner and with a small finishing nail or an awl, tap lightly with a hammer. This holedoesnotneedtobeverydeep.Donotuseapowerscrewdriver onthesescrewsbecausescrewdrivermayslipoffthescrewand scratch the finish on the corner caps.

68.Place the sight plugs #46 into the rails by pressing them into the predrilled holes as shown in figure 27.

37

34 35

33

34

35

14

33

45

Ball Return System

69. Push ball return tubes #112over pocket openings on uphill ends andinto the pocket openings on the downhill ends.

(See figure 28 and Detail A) When installing the ball return tubes, if they have a slight curvature, rotate tubes so that tube doesnotsagtowardfloor. (Seefigure28).

Detail A

Figure 28

15

Detail A

Figure 29

Detail B

70.Attach pockets to rails by using five nails per pocket. Place nails about ½ inch below the top of pocket so the balls will not hit nails and get chipped. Hold the nails with a pair of needle nose pliers (See Figure 29, Detail B) and tap them into the plastic pocket with a small hammer.

HINT:

Hammer nails in until the heads are flush with the plastic pocket. To do this you may want to use a nail or nail set to help drive nail in (See Figure 29, Detail A).

71.After the pockets are secured, check to make sure all ball return tubes are engaged in the pocket openings and the ball return tubes are tilting toward the tray. Now take a ball and roll it down both sides of the ball return system to check that the balls will properly roll into the tray.

NOTE: If balls fall from ball tray, go back to step 59-62.

72.Place playfield spots #47 on table as shown in figure 30 below.

73.Adaylaterthetablemayhavesettledsocheckthelevelnessofthetablethesameway you did in steps 12 and 13. If the table is not level raise the low corner by shimming up that corner's leg.

Figure 30

16

2L-6540-00