Brother 885-X26, 885-X28, 885-X06, 885-X08, X18 User Manual 2

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Operation Manual

Sewing Machine

Product Code: 885-X06/X08/X16/X18/X26/X28

Manual de instrucciones

Máquina de coser

Código de producto: 885-X06/X08/X16/X18/X26/X28

ENGLISH

ESPAÑOL

Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

Visítenos en http://solutions.brother.com donde hallará consejos para la solución de problemas así como la lista de preguntas y respuestas más frecuentes.

——————

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:

To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine

and immediately unplug the power cord.

When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.

When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise you may injure your back or knees.

4 Always keep your work area clear:

Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

Do not store objects on the foot controller.

Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

5 Special care is required when sewing:

Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

1

———————

Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.

Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

6 This machine is not a toy:

Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of.

Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

Do not use outdoors.

7 For a longer service life:

When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

8 For repair or adjustment:

If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the

troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.

Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

2

——————

CONTENTS

 

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...........

1

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING

 

MACHINE ..................................

4

ACCESSORIES .................................................

4

Optional accessories ..........................................

4

THE MAIN PARTS ...........................................

5

Flat bed attachment ............................................

5

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................

6

Connecting plugs ...............................................

6

Main power and sewing light switch ..................

7

Foot controller ....................................................

7

Checking the needle ...........................................

7

Replacing the needle ..........................................

7

Changing the presser foot ...................................

8

THE CONTROLS .............................................

9

Pattern selection dial ..........................................

9

Stretch stitching ..................................................

9

Patterns and stitch names .................................

10

Stitch length dial ..............................................

12

Stitch width dial ...............................................

12

Reverse sewing lever ........................................

13

THREADING THE MACHINE .......................

13

Winding the bobbin .........................................

13

Lower threading ...............................................

15

Lower threading (for models equipped with a

 

quick-set bobbin) .............................................

16

Upper threading ...............................................

17

Using the needle threader (for models equipped

with a needle threader) .....................................

19

Drawing up the lower thread ............................

21

FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE

 

COMBINATIONS .........................................

22

2. SEWING BASICS ......................

23

Please read before sewing ................................

23

Starting sewing .................................................

23

Trial sewing ......................................................

24

Changing the sewing direction .........................

24

Sewing thick fabrics .........................................

24

Sewing thin fabrics ...........................................

25

Sewing stretch fabrics .......................................

25

Stitching cylindrical pieces ...............................

25

Sewing with a twin needle (Option) .................

25

Thread tension .................................................

27

3. BUILT-IN STITCHES .................

28

Straight stitching ...............................................

28

Zigzag stitching .................................................

28

Blind hem stitching ...........................................

28

Shell tuck stitching ............................................

30

Elastic stitching .................................................

30

Double action stitching .....................................

31

Fagoting ............................................................

31

Overedge stitching ............................................

32

Feather stitching ................................................

33

Triple zigzag stretch stitching ............................

33

Decorative stitching ..........................................

33

4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND

 

BUTTONS ...............................

34

Making a buttonhole

 

(1-step automatic buttonhole) ...........................

34

Adjusting buttonholes .......................................

36

Sewing buttons .................................................

37

5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND

 

APPLICATIONS .......................

38

Zipper insertion ................................................

38

Gathering ..........................................................

39

Darning ............................................................

39

Appliqués .........................................................

39

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ...........................

40

Using the walking foot ......................................

40

Using the quilting guide ....................................

41

Using the quilting foot ......................................

41

Using the 1/4-inch quilting foot ........................

42

Using the narrow hemmer foot .........................

42

Using the blind stitch foot .................................

44

6. APPENDIX ................................

45

MAINTENANCE ...........................................

45

Restrictions on oiling ........................................

45

Precautions on storing the machine ..................

45

Cleaning ...........................................................

45

TROUBLESHOOTING ..................................

47

INDEX ..........................................................

50

3

———————

1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

1

ACCESSORIES

We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

 

No.

Part Name

Part Code

 

 

Americas

Others

1

Zigzag foot “J”

XC4901-021

(on machine)

 

 

 

2

Buttonhole foot “A”

XD1792-031

3

Zipper foot “I”

XE9369-001

4

Darning Plate

XC6063-021

5

Button sewing foot “M”

XE2137-001

No.

Part Name

Part Code

 

 

Americas

Others

6

Bobbin

SA156

SFB:

(One is on machine)

XA5539-151

 

 

7

Needle set

3-piece set:

XE5328-001

(90/14 needle)

2-piece set: XE7064-001

 

8

Oval screwdriver

XE5241-001

9

Foot controller

See page 5

Note

● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

 

6.

7.

8.

 

No.

Part Name

Part Code

 

 

Americas

Others

1

Extra spool pin

XE2241-001

2

Twin needle

X57521-021

(2.0/75 needle)

 

 

 

3

Walking Foot

SA107

F034N:

XC2165-002

 

 

 

4

Quilting Foot

SA129

F005N:

XC1948-052

 

 

 

No.

Part Name

Part Code

 

 

Americas

Others

5

1/4-inch Quilting Foot

SA125

F001N:

XC1944-052

 

 

 

6

Narrow Hemmer Foot

SA127

F003N:

XC1945-052

 

 

 

7

Blind Stitch Foot

SA134

F018N:

XC1976-052

 

 

 

8

Quilting guide

SA132

F016N:

XC2215-052

 

 

 

4

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

THE MAIN PARTS

6 5 4

3 2

1

7

 

E

 

 

8

 

 

 

 

J

 

 

D

 

 

9

 

 

F

 

 

 

 

 

0

 

 

K

G

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A

C

 

 

H

I

 

B

 

 

 

1Bobbin winder (Page 13)

This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.

2Stitch length dial (Page 12)

Rotate the dial to control the stitch length.

3Spool pin (Page 14, 17)

This holds the spool of thread.

4Stitch width dial (Page 12)

Rotate the dial to control the stitch width.

5Upper tension-control dial (Page 27)

This controls the tension of the upper thread.

6Thread guide (Page 14, 17)

This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine.

7Thread take-up lever (Page 18)

8Thread cutter (Page 24)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

9Needle threader (Page 19)

(This is only available on certain models.)

0Quick-set bobbin (Page 16)

(This is only available on certain models.)

AFlat bed attachment with accessory compartment (Page 5)

BPresser foot (Page 8)

CReverse sewing lever (Page 13)

Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction.

DPattern selection dial (Page 9)

Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the stitch you want.

EHandwheel

Used to manually raise and lower the needle.

FButtonhole fine-adjustment screw (Page 36)

GMain power and sewing light switch (Page 7)

You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off.

HFoot controller jack / socket (Page 6)

Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the machine to the power supply.

IPresser foot lever (Page 18)

Used to raise and lower the presser foot.

JButtonhole lever (1-Step automatic buttonhole) (Page 34)

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes.

KFoot controller (Page 7)

You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to start and stop sewing.

Foot Controller: Model KD-1902 for 110/120V area Model KD-2902 for 220/240V area

The foot controller part code differs depending on the country or region. Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories can be stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.

1 Slideopen theit. flat bed attachment to the left to

1

2

1Flat bed attachment

2Storage compartment

5

———————

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

1

WARNING

Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.

Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

When you are away from the machine

After using the machine

When the power fails during use

When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

During electrical storms

CAUTION

Use only the power cord included with this machine.

Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.

Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

Connecting plugs

1Connect the foot controller plug to the machine.

2Connectoutlet. the power supply plug to a wall

2

1

Note

If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the main power and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.

If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

6

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

Main power and sewing light switch

This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or off.

1

2

1Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark)

2Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark)

Foot controller

When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.

1

2

1Slower

2Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.

CAUTION

Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

Foot Controller: Model KD-1902

This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 885-X06, 885-X08, 885-X26, 885-X28.

The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.

Checking the needle

The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp for smooth sewing.

Checking the needle correctly

Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface. Check the needle from the top and the sides. Dispose of any bent needles safely.

1

2

1Parallel space

2Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)

Replacing the needle

CAUTION

Always turn off the machine before you change the needle. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Only use sewing machine needles for home use. Other needles may bend or break and cause injury.

Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and cause injury.

1Turn off the machine.

2Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

3Lower the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

7

———————

CAUTION

Before replacing the needle, place fabric or paper under the presser foot to prevent the needle from falling into the hole in the needle plate.

4Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use an oval screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.

2 1

1Use an oval screwdriver

2Needle clamp screw

Do not use excessive force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

5With the flat side of the needle toward the back of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper. Next, tighten the needle clamp using an oval screwdriver.

2

3

1

1Use an oval screwdriver

2Needle stopper

3Needle

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION

Make sure you insert the needle until it

1

touches the stopper, and securely tighten

 

the needle clamp screw with an oval

 

screwdriver, otherwise the needle may

 

break or the machine may be damaged.

 

Changing the presser foot

CAUTION

Always turn off the machine before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.

Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.

Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using any other presser foot may cause accident or injury.

You will have to change the presser foot depending on what you want to sew and how.

1Turn off the machine. Raise the presser foot lever.

2Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

3Press the black button at the back of the presser foot holder to release the presser foot.

1

2

3

1

Black button

 

2

Presser foot holder

 

3

Presser foot

4Put a different presser foot on the needle plate so that the bar on the presser foot is in line with the slot on the shank.

8

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

5Lower the presser foot lever and fix the presser foot onto the shank. If the presser foot is in the correct place, the bar should snap in.

1 2

1Shank

2Bar

Presser foot installation orientation

CAUTION

If the presser foot is not installed with the correct orientation, the needle may strike the presser foot, which may bend or break the needle and cause injury.

THE CONTROLS

Pattern selection dial

CAUTION

When you use the pattern selection dial to choose a pattern, raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. If the needle is in the down position when you turn the pattern selection dial, the needle, presser foot or fabric may be damaged.

To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection dial in either direction. The next section shows recommended stitch lengths and widths.

2

1

1Pattern selection dial

2Chosen pattern number

Stretch stitching

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

Setting the stitch length dial to “” changes the selected pattern to a stretch stitch.

9

———————

Patterns and stitch names

37 Stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

27 Stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(only available on certain models)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

2

3

4

 

 

5

6

7

8

9

10

 

 

 

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14

 

15

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

12

13

 

16

17

18

19

 

 

 

 

11

12

13

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

21

22

 

23

24

25

26

27

28

 

 

 

 

 

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

32

 

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

29

30

31

 

34

35

36

37

 

 

 

 

24

25

26

27

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern

 

 

 

 

 

Stitch Name

 

 

 

 

Recommended

Recommended

Reference Page

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Width

 

 

Length

 

 

37 Stitches

 

27 Stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(mm (inch))

 

(mm (inch))

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

1

 

 

1-STEP AUTOMATIC

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

F-1.5

 

 

34

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BUTTONHOLE

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8 – 3/16)

 

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

 

 

 

2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

0-5 (0-3/16)

 

 

1-4

 

28, 38, 39, 40,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STRAIGHT STITCH

 

(Changes needle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/16-3/16)

 

41, 42, 44

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

position)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3

 

 

 

3

 

 

ZIGZAG STITCH

 

 

 

 

 

 

0-5

 

 

 

F-4

 

28, 37, 39, 40,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(0-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-3/16)

 

 

44

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

 

 

 

4

 

 

BLIND HEM STITCH

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

 

F-2

 

 

28, 44

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

 

 

 

5

 

 

SHELL TUCK STITCH

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

 

F-3

 

 

30

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

 

 

 

6

 

 

ELASTIC STITCH

 

 

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

F-2.5

 

 

30

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7

 

 

 

7

 

STRETCH BLIND HEM

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

F-1.5

 

 

28

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STITCH

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8

 

 

 

8

 

 

SCALLOP STITCH

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

F-1.5

 

 

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9

 

 

 

9

 

DOUBLE ACTION STITCH

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

 

F-3

 

 

31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10

 

 

 

10

 

 

BRIDGING STITCH

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

 

F-3

 

 

31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

 

 

 

11

 

 

RAMPART STITCH

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

 

F-3

 

 

31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12

 

 

 

12

 

ELASTIC SHELL TUCK

 

 

 

 

3-5

 

 

 

F-3

 

 

32

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STITCH

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

(1/64-1/8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

 

Pattern

Stitch Name

Recommended

Recommended

Reference Page

 

 

 

 

Width

Length

37 Stitches

27 Stitches

 

(mm (inch))

(mm (inch))

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13

13

BEAD STITCH

3-5

F-1.5

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14

14

ARROWHEAD STITCH

3-5

F-1.5

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15

PARALLELOGRAM

3-5

F-1.5

33

 

 

 

 

STITCH

(1/8-3/16)

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16

SCALLOP STITCH

3-5

F-1.5

33

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17

LIGHTNING STITCH

5

F-1.5

33

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

18

SQUARE STITCH

5

F-1.5

33

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

19

DECORATIVE STITCH

5

F-1.5

33

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

(1/64-1/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

15

 

0-5 (0-3/16)

Fixed

 

 

 

 

 

TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH

(Changes needle

28

 

 

 

 

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

position)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

21

16

TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH

3-5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STITCH

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

22

17

ELASTIC OVERLOCK

3-5

Fixed

32

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STITCH

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

23

18

ELASTIC OVERLOCK

3-5

Fixed

32

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STITCH

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

24

19

FEATHER STITCH

3-5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

25

20

COMB STITCH

3-5

Fixed

32

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26

21

DECORATIVE STITCH

3-5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

27

22

FAGOTING STITCH

3-5

Fixed

31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

28

23

DECORATIVE STITCH

3-5

Fixed

31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

29

24

DECORATIVE HEM

3-5

Fixed

31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STITCH

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

30

25

DECORATIVE STITCH

5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

31

26

DECORATIVE STITCH

5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

———————

Pattern

Stitch Name

Recommended

Recommended

Reference Page

 

 

 

Width

Length

1

37 Stitches

27 Stitches

 

(mm (inch))

(mm (inch))

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

32

27

DECORATIVE STITCH

5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

33

DECORATIVE STITCH

5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

34

DECORATIVE STITCH

5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

35

LINK STITCH

5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

36

DECORATIVE STITCH

3-5

Fixed

33

 

 

(1/8-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

37

DECORATIVE STITCH

5

Fixed

33

 

 

 

 

(3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stitch length dial

Depending on the selected stitch, you may need to adjust the stitch length for best results.

The numbers marked on the stitch length dial represent the stitch length in millimeters (mm) (1/25 inch).

THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE LONGER THE STITCH. With the “0” setting, material is not fed. This is used when sewing a button.

The “F”-“1” range is for making a satin stitch (closed zigzag stitch), which is used for making buttonholes and decorative stitches. The position needed for making the satin stitch varies according to the material and thread being used. To determine the exact dial position, first test the stitch and length settings on a scrap piece of fabric to observe the feeding of the material.

1

2

3

 

 

1

1Stitch length dial

2Shorter

3Longer

CAUTION

If the stitches are bunched together, lengthen the stitch length and continue sewing. Do not continue sewing without lengthening the stitch length, otherwise the needle may break and cause injury.

Stitch width dial

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. The numbers marked on the dial represent the stitch width.

1

1 Stitch width dial

When the Straight or Triple Stretch Stitch is selected, the needle position can be changed from left to right by adjusting the stitch width dial.

12

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

CAUTION

After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

Reverse sewing lever

You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and reinforcing seams.

To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in as far as possible and hold it in that position while you lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, release the reverse sewing lever. The machine will then sew forward.

1

1 Reverse sewing lever

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin

CAUTION

We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.

Actual size

11.5 mm (7/16 inch)

This model

Other models

 

 

13

———————

1

1

 

 

2

1 Pull the thread

 

in completely.

 

 

3

1 Pre-tension disk

2 Bobbin winder shaft

3 Bobbin

1Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of thread on this pin.

2While holding the thread from the spool with your right hand, pass the thread toward you, in the groove on the thread guide. Then, pass the thread around the pre-tension disk and pull the thread in completely.

1

1 Pre-tension disk

CAUTION

If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.

3Pass the end of the thread through the hole on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

4Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the spring on the shaft slides into the notch of the bobbin.

Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3-4 inches) of thread from the hole on the bobbin.

3 1

2

1Spring on the shaft

2Notch

37-10 cm (3-4 inches)

CAUTION

Pull the thread taut and hold the end of the thread straight up. If the thread is too short, not pulled taut or held at an angle, injuries may occur when the thread is wound around the bobbin.

5 Turn on the machine.

14

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

6While holding the end of the thread, gently press the foot controller to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.

7 Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.

1

1 1 cm (1/2 inch)

CAUTION

Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the excess thread completely before winding the bobbin, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.

8 Press the foot controller to start.

9When the bobbin seems full and begins spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller.

0Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.

Note

When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

CAUTION

Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.

1 2

1Wound evenly

2Wound poorly

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

For more details on using the quick-set bobbin, see page 16.

CAUTION

Make sure you turn off the machine while threading. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured.

1Prepare the bobbin wound properly before threading the lower thread.

See page 13 for the details about bobbin winding.

2Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and raise the presser foot lever.

3Remove the bobbin cover by sliding it and lift toward you.

1

1 Bobbin cover

15

———————

4Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in the direction shown by the arrow.

CAUTION

Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

5Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin down with your finger, and then pass the thread through the slit, as shown.

If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.

1

1 Tension-adjusting spring

6Replace the bobbin cover. Put the projection into the race retainer groove

and push closed.

1

 

12

1Groove

2Projection

Make sure that the end of the thread comes out from the cover toward the rear of the machine (as shown in the illustration).

Draw up the lower thread before starting sewing. Refer to “Drawing up the lower thread” on page 21 after threading the upper thread.

Lower threading (for models equipped with a quick-set bobbin)

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

This feature is only available on certain models.

1Follow steps 1 to 4 from “Lower threading” on page 15.

2While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right hand as shown, guide the thread through the slit (1 and 2). Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with the cutter (3).

At this time, check that the bobbin easily rotates counterclockwise.

2

1

23 1

1Slit

2Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

16

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

Note

If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.

1

1 Tension-adjusting spring

3Replace the bobbin cover. Put the projection into the race retainer groove and push closed.

12

1Groove

2Projection

Start sewing after threading the lower and upper thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Refer to the steps in “Drawing up the lower thread” (page 21).

Upper threading

2

2

1

 

 

 

3

5

 

4

 

1Spool pin

2Thread guide (back)

3Thread guide (front)

4Thread take-up lever

5Mark on the handwheel

CAUTION

When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.

Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.

Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct combination of needles and threads, refer to “FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS” on page 22.

17

———————

1Turn off the machine.

2Raise the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

3Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine can not be threaded.

1

1 Mark on the wheel

4Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of thread on this pin.

CAUTION

If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

5While holding the thread from the spool with your right hand, pass the thread

toward you, in the groove on the thread

1

guide.

Make sure that the spring in the groove catches the thread.

1

1 Spring

6Feed the upper thread as shown in the following illustration.

7Make sure you guide the thread through the thread take-up lever from right to left as shown in the following illustration.

1

1

1 Thread take-up lever

Memo

If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread can not be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up.

18

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

8Putneedle.the thread behind the guide above the

The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.

1

1 Needle bar thread guide

9Thread the needle from front to back leaving a thread tail of about 5 cm (2 inch).

If your sewing machine is equipped with a needle threader, use the needle threader to thread the needle (see next section).

1

1 5 cm (2 inch)

Note

Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.

If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

Using the needle threader (for models equipped with a needle threader)

This feature is only available on certain models.

CAUTION

The needle threader can be used with a 75/11 through 100/16 home sewing machine needle. However, the needle threader cannot be used with a 65/9 home sewing machine needle. When using special thread such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, the needle threader cannot be used.

Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader.

The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.

If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to “Upper threading” on page 17.

1Follow steps 1 to 8 from “Upper threading” on page 17 before using the needle threader.

2Lower the presser foot lever.

3Make sure that the mark on the wheel points up as shown in the following illustration.

1

1 Mark on the wheel

4While lowering the needle threader lever, hook the thread onto the guide.

2 1

1Needle holder

2Needle threader lever

19

Brother 885-X26, 885-X28, 885-X06, 885-X08, X18 User Manual 2

———————

6 While lightly holding the thread, turn the needle threader lever toward the front of

the machine (toward you). The hook will 1 pull the thread through the needle.

1

2

1

Needle holder

7 Raise the needle threader lever.

2

Needle threader lever

3

Guide

 

5 Pull down the needle threader lever as much as possible, and then turn the lever toward the back of the machine (away

from you). Make sure that the hook passes through the eye of the needle and grabs the thread.

8 Pull the loop of the thread passed through the eye of the needle toward the rear of the machine.

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

1 Loop of thread

 

 

 

CAUTION

 

1

1 2

Be careful not to pull on the thread with

1 Hook

 

force or it may bend the needle.

 

If the thread does not pass through the

2

Thread

 

 

eye of the needle, start from step 3

Hold the thread in front of the needle to

again.

 

make sure that the hook grabs it.

 

 

 

 

 

9 Raise the presser foot lever.

20

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

0Pass the end of the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

1

1 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

Drawing up the lower thread

1While lightly holding the end of the upper thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) by hand to lower and then raise the needle.

2Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower thread.

1

2

1

2

1Upper thread

2Lower thread

3Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads and put them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.

1

2

1Upper thread

2Lower thread

For models equipped with a quick-set bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread.

When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.

1Remove the bobbin cover, and then reinstall the bobbin.

2Pass the thread along the slit in the direction of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

3Draw up the lower thread as described in the previous steps 1 to 3.

4Replace the bobbin cover.

21

———————

FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS

1

Fabric Type/Application

 

Thread

Size of Needle

 

 

 

Type

 

Size

 

 

 

 

Medium weight

Broadcloth

Cotton thread

 

60–90

 

Taffeta

Synthetic thread

 

75/11–90/14

fabrics

 

 

 

Flannel, Gabardine

Silk thread

 

50

 

 

Lawn

Cotton thread

 

60–90

 

Thin fabrics

Georgette

Synthetic thread

 

65/9–75/11

 

 

 

Challis, Satin

Silk thread

 

50

 

 

Denim

Cotton thread

 

30

100/16

Thick fabrics

 

50

 

 

 

 

 

Corduroy

Synthetic thread

 

50–60

90/14–100/16

 

 

 

Tweed

Silk thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jersey

 

 

 

Ball point needle

Stretch fabrics

 

Thread for knits

 

50–60

75/11–90/14

 

 

 

Tricot

 

 

 

(gold colored)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cotton thread

 

50–90

 

 

 

 

 

 

Easily frayed fabrics

Synthetic thread

 

65/9–90/14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Silk thread

 

50

 

For top-stitching

Synthetic thread

 

30

100/16

 

 

 

Silk thread

 

50–60

75/11–90/14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note

● Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.

Memo

The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.

Ball point needle

Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR” (Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT” 130/705H SUK 90/14 may be used as a substitute.

Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

CAUTION

Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle

(65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.

22

SEWING BASICS——————

2 SEWING BASICS

Please read before sewing

CAUTION

To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep your hands away from moving parts.

Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and you may be injured.

Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.

Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle may break and you may be injured.

Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.

When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise). Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and you may be injured.

Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot, otherwise the presser foot may be damaged.

Starting sewing

1 Turn on the machine.

2Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

3Turn the pattern selection dial to select a stitch (see page 9 - 12).

4Change the presser foot (see page 8).

5 Raise the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

6Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass the thread under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

1

1 5 cm (2 inches)

23

——————

7While holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

8 Lower the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

9 Slowly press down on the foot controller.

X The machine starts sewing.

0Take your foot off the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing.

You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse sewing lever. Refer to “Reverse sewing lever” on page 13 for the details.

aRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

bRaise the presser foot lever.

cPull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads

through the thread cutter to cut them.

.

1

Trial sewing

A trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width.

Changing the sewing

2

direction

Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the point where you want to change the sewing direction, and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever, and then continue sewing.

1

2

Sewing thick fabrics

If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

CAUTION

If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

1 Thread cutter

24

SEWING BASICS——————

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

1

1 Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

1

1 Basting

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hard- to-reach areas.

1Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to release it.

1

1 Flat bed attachment

XWith the flat bed attachment removed, free-arm sewing is possible.

Note

When you are finished with free-arm sewing, install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.

2Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm, and then sew from the top.

Sewing with a twin needle (Option)

We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.

1 Twin needle

2 Extra spool pin

CAUTION

Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021:2.0/75 with a 2 mm width). Other needles could break and damage the machine.

Make sure that the needle does not strike the presser foot.

Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.

Attaching the twin needle

Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single needle (see page 7–8). The flat side of the needle should face toward the back and the rounded side should face toward you.

25

——————

Attaching the extra spool pin

Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the bobbin winder shaft. Install the second thread spool onto the extra spool pin.

 

1

Bobbin winder shaft

3

2

Extra spool pin

2

3

Thread spool

1

 

 

Twin needle threading

You should thread each needle separately.

Note

Models equipped with a needle threader

● You cannot use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand, from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.

1 Thread the left needle.

Follow the same instructions for threading a single needle (see page 17).

2 Thread the right needle.

Thread the right needle in the same way that you threaded the left needle using the thread from the spool on the extra spool pin, but do not pass the thread through the guide above the needle before you pass it through the eye of the right needle.

3 2

1

1Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide

2Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide

3Needle bar thread guide

3Attach zigzag foot “J”.

For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Changing the presser foot” on page 8.

CAUTION

When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

4 Turn on the machine.

2

5 Select a stitch.

CAUTION

After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

When using the twin needle, make sure the stitch width is not set above “2.5” since this may cause the needle to hit the needle plate and break.

6Start sewing.

For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting

sewing” on page 23.

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.

Note

When using the twin needle, the stitches may become bunched together, depending on the types of thread and fabric that are used. If this occurs, increase the stitch length. For details on adjusting the stitch length, refer to “Stitch length dial” on page 12.

CAUTION

When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

26

SEWING BASICS——————

Thread tension

The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.

Memo

We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.

Correct tension

Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.

2

1

 

1

Surface of fabric

3

2

Back of fabric

3

Upper thread

44 Lower thread

Upper tension is too tight

Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.

Note

If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Lower threading” on page 15 and rethread the bobbin thread.

2

1

 

1

Surface of fabric

 

 

 

 

2

Back of fabric

3

5

3

Upper thread

4

Lower thread

 

4

5

Loops appear on

 

 

 

surface of fabric

Solution

Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a lower number.

Upper tension is too loose

Loops appear on the back of the fabric.

Note

If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper threading” on page 17 and rethread the upper thread.

2 5

1

3

4

1Surface of fabric

2Back of fabric

3Upper thread

4Lower thread

5Loops appear on back of fabric

Solution

Increase the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a higher number.

27

——————

3 BUILT-IN STITCHES

Straight stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.

 

Pattern

Stitch

Stitch

Stitch Name

37

 

27

Length

Width

 

 

[mm (inch)]

[mm (inch)]

 

 

 

2

 

1-4

 

Straight Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1/16-3/16)

0-5*

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Triple Stretch

20

 

15

Fixed

(0-3/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stitch

 

 

 

 

 

2.5 (3/32)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Turn the stitch width dial to adjust the needle position. Setting the dial to “5” selects the left needle position; setting the dial to “0” selects the right needle position. Refer to “Stitch width dial” on page 12.

Top stitching and stretch materials

You can use a straight stitch for top stitching and sewing lightweight fabrics.

You can use a triple stretch stitch for sewing stretch fabrics.

Zigzag stitching

 

 

Stitch

Stitch

Stitch Name

Pattern

Length

Width

 

 

[mm (inch)]

[mm (inch)]

 

3

F-4

0-5

Zigzag Stitch

 

 

(1/64-3/16)

(0-3/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zigzag stitch

Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch, and then start sewing.

We recommend that you sew using the Straight Stitch at the beginning and end of zigzag stitches. (This acts as a reinforcement stitch.)

Satin stitch

Setting the Zigzag Stitch length in the “F”-“1” range

 

produces a satin stitch (close zigzag stitch). The

 

Satin Stitch can be used for making buttonholes and

3

decorative stitches. Set the pattern selection dial to

the Zigzag Stitch, set the stitch length in the “F”-“1”

range, and set the stitch width dial between “0” and

 

“5”.

 

 

 

 

Blind hem stitching

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stitch

Stitch

 

Stitch Name

Pattern

Length

Width

 

 

 

[mm (inch)]

[mm (inch)]

 

Blind Hem

4

F-2

3-5

 

 

 

Stitch

 

(1/64-1/16)

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stretch Blind

7

F-1.5

3-5

 

 

 

Hem Stitch

 

(1/64-1/16)

(1/8-3/16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing. Blind Hem Stitch: sewing on non-stretch fabrics. Stretch Blind Hem Stitch: for stretch fabrics.

Memo

● When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved.

1 Reverse the skirt or pants.

2

1 3

4

1Wrong side of fabric

2Right side of fabric

3Bottom side

4Edge of fabric

28

BUILT-IN STITCHES—————

2Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and press.

1Wrong side of fabric

22 Right side of fabric

1

 

4 3

Edge of fabric

 

4

Desired edge of

 

 

 

hem

1

3

2

 

 

 

<Thick fabric>

1

 

2

 

 

 

<Normal fabric>

3

<Seen from the side>

3Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and then baste it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Wrong side of

 

 

5

 

 

4

 

 

fabric

3

 

 

 

2

Right side of

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

fabric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3

Edge of fabric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

Basting stitching

 

1

 

2

 

 

6 5

5 mm (3/16 inch)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

Desired edge of

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

hem

 

1

 

2

 

 

<Thick fabric>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

2

 

 

<Normal fabric>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

<Seen from the side>

 

 

4 Fold back the fabric inside along the

 

basting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

 

 

 

 

1

Wrong side of

2

 

 

 

 

 

fabric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

Edge of fabric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3

Basting

 

 

 

 

 

 

3

4

5 mm (3/16 inch)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

Desired edge of

 

1

6

 

 

 

 

 

 

hem

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

Right side of

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

fabric

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7

Basting point

 

 

 

 

 

7 <Thick fabric>

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

<Normal fabric>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

<Seen from the side>

 

 

5Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

 

1

Wrong side of

 

 

fabric

5

2

Right side of

4

fabric

 

3

Basting

14 Edge of fabric

15 Desired edge of hem

3

1

6 Basting point

 

1

6

<Thick fabric>

 

1

2

 

 

 

 

 

<Normal fabric>

<Seen from the side>

 

6 Remove the flat bed attachment and make free-arm sewing possible.

• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to “Stitching cylindrical pieces” (Page 25).

7 Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, and then start sewing.

1

1 Arm

8After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) until the needle has moved from the right side to the left.

9Position the fabric under the presser foot, and then adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 Wrong side of fabric

2 Fold of hem

3 Needle drop point

1 2 3

1 Needle

12 Needle drop point

3 Fold of hem

2

3

29

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